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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Alexander Luijt, Alexandra Coley, Alistair Hayes, Andrew Smith, Anne Agersted B Brian Favell C Cedric Schelfhaut, Charlotte Toolan, Chris Purslow, Christoph Messmer, Ciriaco Vicente- Mazariegos, Constantin Berger D Daniel Gauthier, David Evans, Donald Ross E Erik Ainley F Ferry Quast, Frans van Eijk G Gabriele Corsetti, Geoff Crowhurst, Georg Fernkorn J James Lindsay, Jérôme Andrey, Jim Wilcox, Johannes Voit, John Hobkinson, Jon Wisloff, Julien Chapuis, Juul Scheffers K Kath-erine Perez, Kathleen Vennens, Kellie Simms L Laurence Markens M Massimiliano Amman-nito, Mateusz Poślednik, Mathias Herr, Michele Martin, Michelle Josselyn P Paolo Priotto R Ralph Pringsheim, Raul Cruz Sierra, Rebecca Lagomarsino, Richard Barnett, Rita Selke, Ron Crawford, Ron Perrier S Sandy Dance, Sara Santambrogio, Scott Mills, Shohei Takashiro, Stijn Eeckhaut, Susanne Badertscher T Tom de Bruin, Tricia Fort W Wouter Kolkman Y Yana Yout, Yu Hongyuan Z Zy Zhang

WRITER THANKSDamian HarperMuch gratitude to Xiao Xue, Mr Zhang, Jason, Li Chengyuan, Grace, Kathy with the perfect English, Margaux, Alvin, Dai Min, Ann Harper, Ba and Ma, the lovely couple who befriended and helped me on the bus outside Datong and all the countless offers of help and guidance from one of the friendliest nations on this planet. Thanks to all of you.

Piera ChenThanks to the Lonely Planet team, and to my friends Janine Cheung and Yuen Ching-sum for their generous assistance. Thanks also to my husband Sze Pang-cheung and daughter Clio for their patience and wonderful support.

Megan EavesMany thanks to my incredible China writers, especially Damian Harper and Phillip Tang for taking on giant chunks of research. Vega Liu and Coco Guan at LPCN. Gratitude to the Fujianese monks who rescued me when I was stranded at Tiantishan. As always, Dave Carroll, Jen Carey and Tom Hall, who continue to trust me to run off to China for three weeks and actually come back to the office. And Bill, who forever supports my random need to just go be by myself in the desert for awhile.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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David EimerSpecial gratitude goes to Emi Yang for her invaluable assistance. Thanks also to Cathy and Lijuan in Jinghong for their inside knowl-edge, as well as to Megan Eaves at Lonely Planet. As ever, thanks to the many people along the way who passed on tips, whether knowingly or unwittingly.

Helen ElferA huge 谢谢 to everyone I met on this trip who patiently answered questions and of-fered advice, also to friends past and present who made my time in China so memorable. Particular gratitude to bona fide China Hands Casey and Mike Hall for all sorts of logistical, technical and moral support, plus heaps of fun. And finally thanks to Orlando for coming along for the ride, to China and in general.

Daisy HarperFor time and effort, big thanks as ever to Mar-gaux, Alvin too, Dai Ruibin, Liu Meina, Jamie Chen, Li Jiaqi, Sun Rong and Jackie Zhang. I am also very grateful to my husband and to Jiafu and Jiale, all ever helpful and patient. Thanks also to everyone else I bumped in to along the way who made my job that bit easier.

Trent HoldenFirst up a massive thanks to Megan Eaves for commissioning me on Beijing. A massive honour indeed to cover a city of this mag-nitude. Also wanted to say a big thank you to fellow LP colleagues based in the Beijing office, including Vega Liu for all your great tips, beers and assistance along the way, and Guan ‘Coco’ Yuanyuan for letting me use the office as a temporary workspace – a big help! A shout out to everyone who I shared a beer with, and the tips on places to check out. As always lots of love to my girlfriend Kate Morgan, and all my family and friends in Mel-bourne and London.

Stephen LioyMakiko, for being a patient partner in trav-el and life – no matter how long the trips become. Jason, for being a steadfast and reli-able friend. See you on the trail soon, I hope.Alina, for being an endless source of infor-mation. See you in five more years or so? Becky (of teaandprayerflags.com), for being a far more engaged and invested traveller of Tibetan regions than me, and for making sure that those who follow have the deepest expe-rience possible.

Shawn LowThanks goes to Jamin Lobsang, Tashi and Tsebtim for showing me the parts of the

world you love and know so well. I also de-pended on the kindness of strangers: for tips, rides and company. To Megan for sending me back to China and to Wyn-Lyn for your con-stant support!

Tom MastersEnormous thanks to the people who helped me research this tough destination. Particu-larly effusive gratitude to Jacob Schickler, who joined me on the road to take pictures for two superb weeks, and whose library of work on Xinjiang is simply superb. I’ve decided not to thank anyone personally inside Xinjiang here, due to the political sensitivities there, but a big shout out to the tour guides, hostel employees, intrepid taxi drivers and bloggers I met on my travels, you know who you are!

Emily MatcharThanks to Megan Eaves and the rest of the LP team for their terrific work. Thanks to Mao Mao for her excellent hot pot suggestions. Thanks to the staff of Travelling With hostel in Chongqing for all their help and advice. And thanks to my husband, Jamin Asay, for accompanying me on this exploration of the hilly terrain and ultra-spicy food of this part of China.

Bradley MayhewThanks to Tenzin and Dechen at Tibet Highland Tours for their help, and to guides Jamyang and Lobsang for their patience. Tashi delek to Sandra Braunfels for coming along on yet another Kailash trek. Cheers also to Jamin York and Sonam Jamphel.

Rebecca MilnerI’m indebted to Frank, Marian, Nikki, Ping and so many others whose small kindnesses were deeply felt. Chris P: your advice was so help-ful. Megan: this was such an amazing expe-rience, thank you! M&D: none of this would have been possible without you, in so many ways. C, your support means the world to me.

Kate MorganThanks to Destination Editor, Megan Eaves, for commissioning me for this great project. Big thanks to Pat Rogers and Chris Rogers for some excellent Shànghǎi suggestions, and thanks very much to my parents Heather and Gary for all of their support. Most important thank you goes to my favourite person and travel partner, Trent, for always being there for me and for all the laughs along the way.

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Tom SpurlingTo Lucy, for following me around the world. To Oliver and Poppy, for keeping our spirits up when we just wanted to go home. To Marcus, for the Jiangxi shuffle and for supporting my television career. To Mo Laoshi, for the local wisdom. To Megan, for the stellar opportuni-ty. And to all the citizens of the PRC, for the sincere enthusiasm towards a traveller who was too busy not getting lost at times to pay you sufficient attention.

Phillip TangI’m incredibly grateful to 邹嘉 in Shěnyáng not only for hospitality, but for your viciously good knowledge. Big thanks to Megan Eaves, Nigel Chin and Ali Lemer for keen eyes and

guidance. Thanks to all the Chinese people for warmth in their towns – Jimmy in Guǎng-zhōu, Wayne in Méizhōu, 小民in Yánjí, Ted in Wǔdàlián Chí and borderlands, and especially Gorden in Cháozhōu. Reflective thanks to family in Guǎngzhōu.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp1633–44.Cover photograph: Chinese Traditional Opera, Julian W/Shutterstock ©Illustrations: pp72–3 and pp300-1 by Michael Weldon.

THIS BOOKThis 15th edition of Lonely Planet’s China guidebook was researched and written by Damian Harper, Piera Chen, Megan Eaves, David Eimer, Helen Elfer, Daisy Harper, Trent Holden, Stephen Lioy, Shawn Low, Tom Masters, Emily Matchar, Bradley Mayhew, Rebecca Milner, Kate Mor-gan, Christopher Pitts, Tom Spurling and Phillip Tang. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Megan Eaves

Product Editors Kate Chapman, Catherine NaghtenSenior Cartographer Julie SheridanBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Judith Bamber, Michelle Bennett, Carolyn Boicos, Nigel Chin, Grace Dobell, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Samantha Forge, Carly Hall, Paul Harding, Gabby Innes, Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Ali Lemer, Anne Mason, Kate Mathews, Anne Mulvaney, Lauren O’Connell, Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, Vicky Smith, Tracy Whitmey,

Amanda Williamson, Simon WilliamsonCartographers Hunor Csutoros, Julie Dodkins, James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jane Atkin, Joe Bindloss, Cheree Broughton, Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Coco Guan, Gemma Gra-ham, Jane Grisman, Corey Hutchison, Andi Jones, Lauren Keith, Indra Kilfoyle, Chris LeeAck, Vega Liu, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Laura Noiret, Tom O’Malley, Ellie Simpson, Nav Sushil, Dora Whitaker

1040

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

108 Dagobas 868798 Art District 87

AAberdeen Promenade 511accommodation 29, 996-8,

see also individual locations

camping 129language 1032

acrobatics 110, 111, 311, 327, 328, 553

activities, see also individual activities

agriculture 987Ai Wei Wei 91, 283air pollution 99, 141air travel 1009-10, 1012amusement parks

Harbin Culture Park 190Hong Kong

Disneyland 516Shànghǎi Disneyland

308Window of the World 581Xīnghǎi Square 159Zhōngshān Park 223

ancient settlements 32Fènghuáng 486Hóngcūn 407Píngyáo 371Qībǎo 310Shāxī 691Zhènyuǎn 649

Ānhuī 400-19, 401accommodation 400climate 400food 400highlights 401travel seasons 400

animals 987-91animism 963Ānjū Ancient Town 798Ānshùn 652-4, 653archaeological sites &

ruins 938Army of Terracotta

Warriors 15, 391-2, 938, 15

Dàzú Buddhist Caves 795-6

Gùyuán City Wall 873Jiāohé 810Melikawat Ruins 825Rawaq Stupa 825Shuǐ Dòng Gōu 868Wándū Mountain City

182Xīníng City Wall 894

architecture 982-4, see also palaces

art deco 295, 309, 312colonial-era 345Huīzhōu 402imperial 31Lǐngnán 574-5modern 75, 87, 91, 283,

307, 506, 984religious 982-4tǔlóu roundhouses 22,

347-9, 22Army of Terracotta

Warriors 15, 391-2, 938, 15

art galleries 976, see also museums & galleries

arts 973-84ATMs 1003

BBadain Jaran Desert 889Bādálǐng 132Bāguà Zhǎng 993-4Bái Tǎ 882Báihé 177-9

Băihóu 593báijiǔ 108, 971, 972Báishā 700Báishuǐtái 711Báiyù 761-2Bamboo Sea 756-7Bàojīng 651Bǎotíng 601-2Bāotóu 883bargaining 29Barkhor 915-16Bāshā 646-7Bayanhot 888-90beaches

Bó’áo 603Běihǎi 631Fùjiāzhuāng Beach 159Hong Kong 511, 515-16Jīnshí Tān 159-60Pǔtuóshān 285Qīngdǎo 224Rì Yuè Bay 605Sānyà 605-6Shíméi Bay 605Xīngchéng Beach 173-4Yángjiāng 576Yāntái 231

beer 227, 972, see also breweries

Běidàhú Ski Resort 183Běihǎi 631-4, 632Běihǎi Park 86-7, 88Běihóngcūn 199-200Běijícūn 199Běijīng 20, 64-123, 66-7,

121, 2, 20, 664, 665accommodation 64,

98-103activities 98Běihǎi Park 86-7, 88Cháoyáng 91, 92-3climate 64courses 97-8Dashilar 89-91, 90

Dōngchéng Central 68-9, 71, 74-5, 78-9, 76-7

Dōngchéng North 79, 82, 84, 80-1

Dōngchéng South 84, 85-6, 85

drinking 107-10Drum Tower 79, 82, 84,

80-1entertainment 110-11food 64, 103-7highlights 66history 65hútòng 20, 82, 83,

83, 20information 114-20itineraries 68, 83, 83language 65-8nightlife 107-10 Sānlǐtún 91, 92-3shopping 112-20sights 68-97Summer Palace 91, 94-5,

96-7, 7, 31Temple of Heaven Park

84-5, 497, 496travel seasons 64travel to/from 116-20travel within 118-20walking tour 83, 83Xīchéng North 86-9, 88 Xīchéng South

89-91, 90Běijīng Book Bash 34Bell Tower 79Big Buddha 516Bīngláng Valley 484Bǐnglíng Sì 837Bīngyù Valley 165Bǐngzhōngluò 715Bird Island 899birds 988-9bird-watching 989

Hong Kong 515, 989Nangchen 906


1041IN

DEX B

- CWēishān 683Xīníng 899

Bìshǔ Shānzhuāng 149

Bó’áo 602-5boat travel 33, 51-6,

1011-12, 1013boat trips 23, 51-6, 168,

267, 616, 788, 52, 23, 55

Bodhidharma 426books 340, 934, 942,

979-81culture 955environment 987health 1021history 943, 945, 951

border crossings 1010-11Dàlián 163Dāndōng to South

Korea 169Harbin 194Japan 228, 332, 1011Kazakhstan 806, 1010Kyrgyzstan 818, 1010Laos 675, 728, 1010Mongolia 881, 887,

1010Myanmar (Burma) 721,

1010Nepal 931, 1010North Korea 1010-11Pakistan 818, 1011Qīngdǎo 228Russia 194, 1011South Korea 163,

169,228, 234, 1011Taiwan 343, 356,

1012Tajikistan 818, 1011Thailand 726Vietnam 630, 635,

675, 1011breakfast 971breweries 109, see also

beer1/2 Sugar 895Great Leap Brewing 108Jing A Brewing 109Midtown Brewery 273Slow Boat Brewery

Taproom 108Tsingtao Beer Museum

221Bruce Lee Statue 660Buddhism 958-60

temples 982-3Tibetan Buddhism 958

Buddhist temples 982-3, 662, see also temples & monasteries

Bù’ěrjīn 828Bulang people 725Bund, the 13, 291, 294-5,

298, 300-1, 296-7, 300-1, 12, 300, 301

bus travel 1013, 1014business hours 27, 1004

CCáicūn 688calligraphy 973-4camping 129canal towns

Lìjiāng 693-700, 694, 699, 2

Lùzhí 260-1Mùdú 258-9Qībǎo 310Sūzhōu 250-8, 252,

258Tónglǐ 259-60Wūzhèn 277-9Zhōuzhuāng 261-2

Cāngzhōu’s Iron Lion 146Cantonese language

1031-3Cantonese opera 575car travel 1013-14carpets 818, 825, 928casinos 552cathedrals, see churches

& cathedralscaves 873

Bezeklik Cave Complex 810-11

Bǐnglíng Sì 837Chángchún Cave 683Chuāndòng Sinkhole

637Dàshíwēi Sinkhole 637Dàzú Buddhist Caves

795-6Huángguǒshù Falls 655Kizil Thousand Buddha

Caves 813Lǐjiā Shān 377Lónggōng Cave 654Lóngmén Grottoes 431Luómèi Lotus Cave 637Màijī Shān 862-3Mǎtí Sì 852Mògāo Grottoes 858-60Nekhang 844Pǔtuóshān 285

Swallow’s Cavern 680Ten Thousand Buddha

Grotto 432Tiāntīshān Grottoes

849-50Xūmí Shān 873Yúlín Grottoes 860Yúngāng Caves 363-4Zhāngbì Underground

Castle 376-7Zhēnxiān Cave 405Zhījīn Cave 654

cell phones 1005-6ceramics 977-8Chagpo Ri 916Chákǎ Salt Lake 899Chángbái Shān 177-80Chángbái Shān

Canyon 179Chángchūn 183-5, 184Chángshā 473-6, 475Cháozhōu 587-90, 589Charklik 823Cháyáng 592-3Chen Clan Ancestral

Hall 560Chéngdé 147-52, 148Chéngdū 734-44, 736-7Chéngkǎn 404Chéngyáng Wind & Rain

Bridge 619Cherchen 823-4Cherry Blossom

Festival 224children, travel with 50,

114, 390China Fortune Wheel 903Chinese Communist Party

(CCP) 945-7Chinese medicine 269,

282, 565, 998Chinese opera 247, 257,

327, 465, 571, 575Chìshuǐ 657-9Chiu village 932Chóngqìng 782-98, 783

accommodation 782climate 782food 782highlights 783travel seasons 782

Chóngqìng City 784-95, 785, 786-7, 789

chörten 108 Dagobas 868Báitǎ Gōngyuán 771Gòngtáng Chörten 840

Gyantse Kumbum 925Kumbum Monastery

900Potala Palace 915Wútún Sì 902

Christianity 962-3Chuāndǐxià 122-3Chungking Mansions 521churches & cathedrals

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception 368

Church of St Sophia 190

Dàtóng 361-2Holy Mother Church

364Protestant Church 223Ruins of the Church of

St Paul 537-8St John’s Cathedral

506-7St Joseph’s Church

78, 136St Joseph’s Seminary &

Church 538St Michael’s Cathedral

221Wéizhōu Catholic

Church 634city walls

Chángshā 473Cháozhōu 588Chóngwǔ 354Dàtóng 361Gùyuán City Wall 873Jīngzhōu 447Kāifēng 435Nánjīng 244Píngyáo 372Wǎnpíng Old Town 123Xī’ān 381Xīngchéng Old City 173Xīníng City Wall 894

climate 26, 34-7, 26 see also individual regions

climbing 495, 684, 745, 757

Coloane 546, 551communism 963-4Confucianism 960-2

temples 984Confucius 216, 936consulates 999-1002costs 27

Běijīng 65Héběi 135Hēilóngjiāng 188

1042

IND

EX C- G

costs continuedJílín 177Jǐ’nán 203Liáoníng 159Tiānjīn Museum 135

coursescooking 50language 98martial arts 98, 310,

519, 993credit cards 1003cruises, see boat travel,

boat tripscuisine, see foodCultural Revolution 943,

950-1culture 934, 954-7

books 955currency 1003-4customs regulations 998cycling 13, 1012-13

Běijīng 98Guìlín 616Hǎikǒu 597Hǎinán 24, 603Hong Kong 534Lángmùsì 846Macau 556Qīnghǎi 900Tiānjīn 137Wùyuán 464Yángshuò 13, 621

DDàbù 592Dàdōnghǎi 605-9, 606Dai people 725Dàlǐ 684-8, 685, 689Dàlián 159-63, 161, 164Dálǐjiā Mountain 845Dàměnglóng 729Dānbā 762-3Dāndōng 165-74, 167dangers, see safetyDǎngjiācūn 397Dàochéng 769-70Dàowéi Tibetan

Village 845Darchen 931-2Dartsendo 757-61, 759Dashilar 90Dàtóng 360-3, 361

Dàxū 616Dàzú Buddhist Caves

795-6Dégé 763-4Déhāng 485-6demographics 956Deng Xiaoping 125, 477,

612, 949, 950, 951Dēngfēng 425-8dengue 1022Déqīn 711-14deserts 986

Badain Jaran 889Gobi 860Shāpōtóu 871Taklamakan 815-16, 822Tengger 872

dessert 971Détiān Waterfall 636Diān Chí 677diāolóu 23, 576, 23Diéshuǐ Waterfall 716dim sum 492, 14, 493disabilities, travellers with

1006discount cards 75, 999Disneyland

Hong Kong 516Shànghǎi 308

Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces, see Lóngjǐ Rice Terraces

Drepung Monastery 922drinks 47-50, 972

beer 227craft beer 109language 1028-9, 1032

Drölma-la 931Drum Tower (Běijīng) 79Dūjiāngyàn 744-5Dúlóng Valley 715dumplings 895Dūnhuáng 13, 855-8,

856, 13

Eeconomy 166, 934-5electricity 999Èlíng Lake 908embassies 999-1002Éméi Shān 746-50, 747Emerald Pagoda Lake 711emergencies 27

language 1029, 1032Emin Minaret 808Ēnhé 886

Enning Road 561environmental issues 991

air pollution 99, 141Ěrhǎi Lake 688-9, 689ethnic minorities 33, 955etiquette 29, 971events, see festivals &

eventsEverest Base Camp

929-30exchange rates 27, 502,

538

FFalun Gong 959Fènghuáng 18, 486-9,

487, 18ferries 1011-12, see also

boat travelfestivals & events 34-7,

498Cherry Blossom Festival

224Dàlián International

Beer Festival 160Festival of Aurora

Borealis 200Harbin Ice & Snow

Festival 191, 35, 498International Beer

Festival 224International Sailing

Week 225Nánjīng 245Spring Festival 34, 35 Sūzhōu 255

films 934, 943, 944, 981-2Crouching Tiger,

Hidden Dragon 406Judou 406martial arts 993Painted Veil, The 627Raise the Red Lantern

371Fisherman’s Wharf 159Fishing Town Fortress 794food 15, 30, 47-50,

492-3, 965-72, 1002, 14, 49, 493, 664, see also individual locations

Běijīng 48Chóngqìng 48cooking courses 50dim sum 492, 14, 493etiquette 971Gānsù 48Guǎngzhōu 48

Hǎinán 49Hong Kong 48hotpot 790, 49Húnán 48language 1028-9, 1032lǎobà chá 608Macau 48noodles 791, 895, 492-3Peking duck 492, 492Qīnghǎi specialities

895regional cuisines

965-70Shaanxi 48Shànghǎi 48Sìchuān 48Uighur 829xiǎolóngbāo 493 Xīnjiāng 48Yúnnán 48

Forbidden City 11, 68-71, 72, 70, 72-3, 10-11, 72, 73, 664-5

forts, see also diāolóuGyantse Dzong 925Tashkurgan Fort 821

Fóshān 571-2Four Sisters Mountain

745-6Fragrant Hills Park 95French Concession 16,

299-302, 320-1, 16Friendship Hwy 929, 931Fúgòng 714Fújiàn 22, 337-57, 338, 22


Fújiàn Tǔlóu 347-50Fúróng Zhèn 490Fúzhōu 355-6

Ggalleries see art galleries,

museums & galleriesGanden Monastery 922-3Gānjiā Grasslands 844Gānsù 832-63, 833


Gānzī 764-5Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1043IN

DEX G

- HGāochāng 810gardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 1002Giant Panda Breeding

Research Base 734glaciers 693, 712, 758,

765GLBTIQ travellers 1002Gobi Desert 860Golmud 907-8Grand Buddha 22, 22Great Wall, the 11, 30,

124-32, 130-1, 125Bādálǐng 132, 11camping 129Gǔběikǒu 127hiking 130-1history 124-5Huánghuā Chéng 130-2Jiànkòu 127-8Jiǎo Shān Great Wall

153-4Jiāyùguān 853Jīnshānlǐng 129-30,

660-1Jiǔménkǒu Great Wall

156Mùtiányù 126Sānguānkǒu 890Tiger Mountain Great

Wall 166Zhuàngdàokǒu 128-9

Guǎngdōng 557-93, 558accommodation 557climate 557food 557highlights 558travel seasons 557

Guǎngjǐ Bridge 588Guǎngxī 610-37, 611, 660


Guǎngyuán 781Guǎngzhōu 559-71, 562-3,

567Guānkēng 466Guānlán Original

Printmaking Base 585Guanyin 960Gǔběikǒu 127Guìdé 903-4Guìlín 612-16, 613Guìyáng 640-3, 642

Guìzhōu 638-59, 639accommodation 638climate 638food 638highlights 639travel seasons 638

Gǔlàng Yǔ 344-6, 341Guōdá Shān 758Guōliàngcūn 433-4Guōyù 378Gùyuán 872-4Gyantse 925-6

HHābā 704Hǎikǒu 596-9, 597Hǎilā’ěr 884-6Hǎinán 24, 594-609,

595, 25accommodation 594climate 594food 594highlights 595travel seasons 594

Hāmì 811Han Chinese 954Han dynasty 937Hánchéng 397-8Hángzhōu 265-76, 268-9,

662itineraries 266

Hani people 725Happy Valley Racecourse

509Harbin 188-95, 189Harbin Ice & Snow Festival

191, 35, 498health 1020-5

altitude sickness 776books 1021clinics 1022environmental hazards

1023-5infectious diseases

1022-3insurance 1020medications 1022traveller’s diarrhoea

1023vaccinations 1020-1websites 1021women’s health 1025

Héběi 133-56, 142-56, 134

accommodation 133food 133

highlights 134travel seasons 133

Héféi 418-19Hēijǐng 678Hēilóngjiāng 186-200

highlights 187, 187Hēiwǎé Dǎo 704Hèlán Shān 870Hémù 830Hénán 420-39, 421


Héng Shān 478-80hepatitis A 1022hepatitis B 1022Héshùn 716Héxī Corridor 848-61Hézuò 844-5hiking 15, 17, 30, 494-5

Déqīn 712Éméi Shān 748Great Wall, The 130-1Hángzhōu 272Hong Kong 516-17, 494Huángshān 411-13Jiǔhuá Mountain 416Lángmùsì 846Macau 548Mt Amnye Machen 907Mt Tàishì 427Nánlǐng 580Sānqīng Shān 467Sìchuān 757Tài Shān 211-13Tiger Leaping Gorge

701-4, 494Wùyuán 466Xīshuāngbǎnnà 727

history 936-5321st century 953Běijīng 65books 943, 945Chinese Communist

Party (CCP) 945-7Cultural Revolution

950-1early empires 937Great Wall, the 124-5Hēilóngjiāng 188Jílín 176-7Kuomintang rule 948-9Liáoníng 159Ming dynasty 939-42

Opium Wars 940Qing dynasty 940,

942-3Republic of China 944-6Shāndōng 202Song dynasty 939-40Taiping Rebellion 943Tang dynasty 938-9Tiān’ānmén Sq protests

952Tiānjīn 135WWI 945

Hohhot 877-82, 879holidays 1004-5Hóngcūn 407-8Hóngjiāng Old Town

489-90Hong Kong 17, 499-535,

500-1, 503, 4, 17, 494

Aberdeen 510-11accommodation 499,

519-23activities 516-19Admiralty 504-5Causeway Bay 508Central District 502-7,

504-5Cheung Chau 516climate 499drinking 527-8entertainment 528-9events 519festivals 519food 499, 523-7highlights 500-1history 502itineraries 507Kowloon 511-13, 510Lamma 516Lantau 515-16New Territories 513-15nightlife 527-8 Peak, the 507-9Sheung Wan 504-5shopping 529-31sights 502-16tourist information

531-3tours 519travel seasons 499travel to/from 533travel within 534-5Victoria Harbour 17, 17 walking tour 518, 518Wan Chai 509-10, 508Yau Ma Tei 512

1044

IND

EX H- L

horse riding & trekkingĒnhé 886Kanas Village 830Lángmùsì 846Sōngpān 773-5Tǎgōng 766-7Xīlāmùrén 882

hot springsÈrdào Hot Springs 758Huángshān Hot Springs

412-13Lǐtáng 771Mission Hills Resort

596-7Rónghuì Hot Springs

788Rúbùzhákǎ Hot Springs

769Sea of Heat 718 Xīdāng 712

Hotan 824-7, 825hotpot 790, 49HSBC Building 506Huā Mountain Cliff Murals

634-5Huángguǒshù Falls 654-5Huánghuā Chéng 130-2Huángshān 17, 410-15,

411, 17, 495Huángyáo 627-8Huá Shān 394-7, 395Húběi 440-53, 441


Hui 17, 399Húnán 471-90, 472


hútòng 20, 82, 83, 83, 20Hùzhù Běishān Forest

National Park 901

Iimmigration 1006-8, 1009imperial architecture

Bìshǔ Shānzhuāng 149

Forbidden City 11, 68-71, 72, 70, 72-3, 10-11, 72, 73, 664-5

Shěnyáng Imperial Palace 170

Summer Palace 91, 94-5, 96-7, 7, 31

Inner Mongolia 875-90, 876

accommodation 875climate 875food 875highlights 876, 876travel seasons 875

insurancehealth 1020

internet access 1002Islam 963itineraries 38-46, 38,

39, 40, 41, 42-3, 44, 45, 46

Běijīng 68Hángzhōu 266

JJade Dragon Snow

Mountain 693Japanese B encephalitis

1022Jí’ān 181-3Jiāngsū 236-62, 237


Jiāngtóuzhōu 616Jiāngxī 454-70, 455


Jiànkòu 127-8Jiànshuǐ 678-80Jiǎo Shān Great Wall

153-4Jiāyùguān 852-5, 853Jiěgào 721Jílín 175-85, 176

highlights 176Jīmíngyì 155-6Jǐ’nán 203-6, 204Jìnchéng 378Jǐngdézhèn 460-3, 461Jǐnghóng 723-7, 724

Jìngpò Lake 195-7Jīngzhōu 447-8Jīnhuá 283-4Jīnshā River 494Jīnshānlǐng 129-30, 660-1Jinuo people 725Jiǔhuá Shān 415-17Jiǔménkǒu Great Wall 156Jiǔzhàigōu National Park

17, 777-80, 777 17Jokhang Temple 915, 496

KKāifēng 434-9, 436Kǎilǐ 644-6, 645Kāipíng 23, 572-6, 23Kanas Lake 829-30Kanas Village 830Kanbula National Park

901Kāngdìng 757-61, 759kǎobǐng 895Karakoram Highway 20,

819-22, 20Karghilik 827-8Kashgar 814-19, 815Kawa Karpo 711-14Khan, Genghis 938Khara Khoto 889kora

Barkhor Circuit 915-16Ganden Kora 923Lake Manasarovar 932Mt Kailash 931-2Princess Wencha

Temple 905Kowloon 511-13, 510Kumbum Monastery 900Kūnmíng 669-76, 670-1,

676Kuqa 812-13

LLabrang Monastery 21,

21, 497Lai Chi Wo 513-14Láitān 796Lake Manasarovar 932lakes

Barkol Lake 811Bulungkol Lake 821Dàmíng Lake 203Green Deep Pool 178-9Heaven Lake 178Hòuhǎi Lakes 87-8

Kanas Lake 829-30Karakul Lake 821Sayram Lake 831Third Lake 198West Lake 265-6

landlines 1006landscapes 985-91Lángmùsì 845-7language 29, 1026-36

Běijīng 65-8Cantonese 1031-3courses 98Mongolian 1034Tibet 914Tibetan 1033Uighur 801-2, 1034

Lángzhōng 780-1Lánzhōu 834-8, 835Láo Shān 229-31lǎobà chá 608Laotzu (Laozi) 936legal matters 1002-3Léishān 647Lee, Bruce 514, 561, 571,

572, 994, 661lesbian travellers 1002Lè Shān 22, 750-2,

751, 22Lèyè 636-7Lhasa 24, 915-22, 916,

919, 25accommodation 917-18activities 915-17drinking 920events 917festivals 917food 918-20information 921itineraries 917nightlife 920shopping 920sights 915-17tours 917travel to/from 921-2travel within 922

Lhatse 929Li people 601Lí River 13, 625, 12Lí Riverside Path 621Liáoníng 157-74, 158

highlights 158Liddell, Eric 136Lìjiāng 693-700, 694,

699, 2Lǐngjiǎo 464Lǐngnán culture 574-5, 575


1045IN

DEX L- M

Línxià 843Lǐtáng 770-2literature 934, 979-81, see

also booksLittle Lǐkēng 465Liúgōng 626-7Liǔjiāng 752-3Liùkù 714Lǐwùbǐ Dǎo 704Lónghǔ Shān 468-70Lóngjǐ Rice Terraces 15,

617-19, 14Lónglǐ 647Lóngnán 470Lúgū Lake 704-5Luótiáncūn 459Luòyáng 428-31, 429Lúshān 459-60Lǚshùn 163Lùzhí 260-1

MMacau 536-56, 537,

540-1, 544accommodation 536,

549-50activities 548climate 536drinking 552entertainment 553events 548-9festivals 548-9food 536, 550-2highlights 537nightlife 552 shopping 553-4sights 537-48tourist information

554-5tours 548travel seasons 536travel to/from 5

55-6travel within 556

Mǎduō 908Màijī Shān 862-3malaria 1022Man Mo Temple 507-9Mandarin language

1026-31Mǎnígāngē 765-6Mǎnzhōulǐ 886-7Mao Zedong 473, 477,

949-51, 963-4 Mào’ér Mountain 180Maoism 963-4

marketsHotan 825Kashgar 814Kuqa 812Shigatse 928Temple Street Night

Market 512Tianjin Jie Night

Market 162Yuen Po Street Bird

Garden & Flower Market 512

Zhōngwèi 872martial arts 98, 425-7,

992-4, see also taichiMǎtí Sì 852mausoleums &

memorials 191Chairman Mao

Memorial Hall 74Confucius Forest 216-17Genghis Khan

Mausoleum 884Mausoleum of General

Yue Fei 270Mausoleum of the

Nányuè King 561Memorial Hall of the

Nánjīng Massacre 242-3

Soviet Martyrs Cemetery 165

Sun Yatsen Mausoleum 243-4

Tomb of Emperor Jingdi 394

Méizhōu 590-2memorials, see

mausoleums & memorials

Mencius 219-20Měnghǎn 728Měnglà 728-9Měnglún 728Mián Shān 375-6Miao people 601, 31Ming dynasty 939-42Ming Tombs 120-2mobile phones 1005-6modern architecture 984

798 Art District 87Bird’s Nest 91CCTV Headquarters 91Galaxy Soho 75HSBC Building 506Jīnhuá Architecture

Park 283Oriental Pearl

TV Tower 307

Shànghǎi Tower 307Mògànshān 276-7Mògāo Grottoes 858-60Mòhé 199-200monasteries 32, see

also templesDana Gompa 906Drepung Monastery 922Drogon Gompa 904Gading Gompa 906Ganden Monastery

922-3Gar Gompa 906Gomar Gompa 902Jyekundo Dondrubling

Monastery 904Kumbum Monastery

900Nechung Monastery

922Pabonka Monastery

923-4Pelkor Chöde

Monastery 925Rongphu Monastery

930Sakya Monastery 929Samye Monastery 924Sera Monastery 923-4Tashilhunpo Monastery

926Wútún Sì 902Yòuníng Monastery 898

money 26-7, 29, 999, 1003-4

money changers 1004Mongolian language 1034Monlam Great Prayer

Festival 34mosques

Dōngguān Grand Mosque 894

Great Mosque 382Great Mosque (Kuqa)

812Great Southern Mosque

203Id Kah Mosque 814-15Niújiē Mosque 90-1Rasta Mosque 812Shǎnxī Mosque 831Tóngxīn 874

motorcycle travel 1013-14mountains 985-6

Jùfēng 230Mt Amnye Machen 907Mt Everest 929Mt Kailash 24, 931-2, 24

Tàipíng Hill 224Tài Shān 211-14Thousand Buddha

Mountain 203-4Mt Amnye Machen 907Mt Everest 929Mt Kailash 24, 931-2, 24Mǔdānjiāng 195Mùdú 258-9Mukden incident 171museums & galleries 32,

220-1, 231, 953, 976AFA (Art for All Society)

538Alashan Museum 888Ancient Beds Museum

278Arrow Factory 82-4Aurora Museum 307Běijīng Cultural & Art

Centre 82Běijīng Police Museum

79Běijīng Railway Museum

85-6Capital Museum 89Cherchen Museum 823China Great Wall

Museum 132China Sculpture

Museum 361China Silk Museum 269Chinese Footbinding

Culture Museum 278Chinese Navy Museum

221Chinese Sex Culture

Museum 259Confucius Mansion 216Dinosaur Museum 754Folk Art Museum 136Forest of Stelae

Museum 382Governor’s House

Museum 221Great Wall Museum

154Gùyuán Museum 873Hāmì Museum 811Han Dynasty Brick

Museum 221Héběi Provincial

Museum 142Hong Kong Heritage

Museum 514Hong Kong Maritime

Museum 506Hong Kong Museum of

History 513

1046

IND

EX M- P

museums & galleries continued

Húběi Provincial Museum 442

Húqìngyú Táng Chinese Medicine Museum 269

Imperial Examinations History Museum 242-3

Imperial Palace of the Manchu State 183

Japanese Germ Warfare Experimental Base 191

Jí’ān Museum 182 Jiāngnán Wood Carving

Museum 277-8Jǐ’nán Museum 203-35Kūnqǔ Opera Museum

255Luòyáng Museum 429Lǚshùn Museum 164M50 303Macau Museum of

Art 542Museum of the Ming

Tombs 120Museum of the War

of Chinese People’s Resistance Against Japanese Aggression 123

Museum to Commemorate US Aggression 167-8

Nánjīng Museum 239National Museum of

China 74Poly Art Museum 78Propaganda Poster Art

Centre 302Qīngdǎo City Art

Museum 223Qīngdǎo Municipal

Museum 223Rìshēngchāng Financial

House Museum 373Rockbund Art Museum

295Sānxīngduī Museum 743Shāndōng Museum 203Shànghǎi Gallery of Art

295-8Shànghǎi History

Museum 307-8

Shànghǎi Museum 294Shànghǎi Natural

History Museum 303Shànghǎi Urban

Planning Exhibition Hall 294

Shǐjiā Hútòng Museum 75

Sūzhōu Art Museum 251

Sūzhōu Museum 251Sūzhōu Silk Museum

253Taiping Heavenly

Kingdom History Museum 241-2

Tiānjīn Museum 135Tibetan Culture &

Medicine Museum 893-4

Tsingtao Beer Museum 221

Wàncuìlóu Museum 402Xiānnóng Altar & Běijīng

Ancient Architecture Museum 89-90

Xīnjiāng Autonomous Region Museum 803

Yāntái Folk Custom Museum 231

music 352music festivals 584Mùtiányù 126

NNaadam 34, 36Nánchāng 456-9, 457Nánchāng Uprising 458Nangchen 906Nánjiēcūn 425Nánjīng 238-50, 240-1Nánníng 628-31, 629Nánxún 279-80National Centre for the

Performing Arts 665Nationalism 964national parks & reserves

Bājiăozhài National Geopark 617

Chángbái Shān 177-80Chángpíng Valley 745Guìdé National

Geological Park 903Hǎizi Valley 745Huánglóng National

Park 780Hùzhù Běishān Forest

National Park 901

Jiǔzhàigōu National Park 17, 777-80, 777, 17

Kanbula National Park 901

Láifēng Shān National Forest Park 716

Lèyè Geopark 637Meili Snow Mountain

National Park 711Mòmògé National

Nature Reserve 198Nánlǐng National Forest

Park 580Qī Xiān Lǐng Hot Spring

Forest Park 601-2Shǔnán Zhúhǎi National

Park 756Shuāngqiáo Valley 745Sūyùkǒu National

Forest Park 870Wǔlíngyuán Scenic &

Historic Interest Area 480-2

Xiànghǎi National Nature Reserve 198

Yǎdān National Park 860-1

Yàdīng Nature Reserve 770

Yāzikǒu 451Zhālóng Nature

Reserve 198Zhāngjiājiè 16, 480-5,

481, 16Zhāngyē Dānxiá

National Geopark 851

natural springsWángfǔ Pool 203

Naxi people 696, 663Nepal 931Ngari 924, 930-2night markets

Gùyuán 874Nine Dragon Screen 360Níngbō 288-9Níngxià 864-74, 865

accommodation 864climate 864, 866food 864highlights 865, 865history 866travel seasons 864

noodles 791, 895, 492-3North Korea 168Northern Garzê Prefecture

761-8novels 979

Nù Jiāng Valley 713-15Nuòdèng 690-1

OOCT-LOFT 581Old Dragon Head 154Olympics 952one-child policy 956-7opening hours 27, 1004opera 247, 257, 327, 465,

571, 575Opium Wars 940

Ppacking 28pagodas, see also temples

& monasteriesBái Tǎ 882Chéngtiānsì Pagoda

867Hǎibǎo Pagoda 866-7

painting 435, 560, 974-7Lǐngnán 574

palacesBishop’s Palace 539Dài Wángfǔ 361Forbidden City 11, 68-71,

72, 70, 72-3, 10-11, 72, 73, 664-5

Imperial Palace of the Manchu State 183

Potala Palace 915Presidential Palace 239Shěnyáng Imperial

Palace 170Summer Palace 91,

94-5, 96-7, 7, 31pandas 547-8, 734, 753,

988parks & gardens 167

Bàotū Spring 204Běihǎi Park 86-7Běijīng Botanic

Gardens 95-7Běilíng Park 170Blue Wave Pavilion 254Chángchūn World

Sculpture Park 183Confucius Cave 217Couple’s Garden 254Five Dragon Pool Park

204Fragrant Hills Park 95Garden of Harmony 254Garden of the Master of

the Nets 251Garden to Linger In 254


1047IN

DEX P

- SHong Kong Global

Geopark 513Hong Kong Park 509Hong Kong Wetland

Park 515Hóngshān Park 803Huánchéng Park 204Humble Administrator’s

Garden 251Jǐngshān Park 75Kowloon Park 513Little Fish Hill 224Liùpán Shān Guójiā

Sēnlín Gōngyuán 873Ming Palace Ruins 239People’s Park

(Ürümqi) 803Potala Palace 915, 25Rìtán Park 91Signal Hill Park 224Sun Island Park 190Sunlight Rock Park

344-5Temple of Heaven Park

84-5, 497, 496Tiger Hill 254Tuìsī Garden 260West Lake 588Workers Cultural

Palace 74Wǔcháomén Park 239Wǔyí Shān Scenic

Area 356Xuánwǔ Lake Park 243Yāntái Hill Park 231Yúyìn Mountain Villa 571Yùyuán Gardens 298-9Zhān Garden 241Zhāolín Park 190Zhōngshān Park 223-4

passports 1006-8Peak Tram 503-6Peking duck 492, 492Pénglái 234-5Peony festival 35philosophy 958-64ping pong 946Ping Shan Heritage Trail

514-15Píngliáng 863Píngshān 408-9Píngxiáng 635-6Píngyáo 19, 371-5, 372,

19, 491planning, see

also individual regionsbasics 26-7budgeting 27

calendar of events 34-7China’s regions 57-62first-time travellers 28-9internet resources 27itineraries 38travel seasons 26, 34-7

plants 989-90Po Lin Monastery 516poetry 979politics 935Polo, Marco 939population 935, 956postal services 1004Potala Palace 915, 25Prime Minister Chen’s

Castle 378Princess Wencheng

Temple 905-6propaganda 975public holidays 1004-5Pǔtuóshān 284-8, 286,

661

QQiántáng River Tidal

Bore 274Qiao Family Courtyard 371Qībǎo 310Qìgōng 993Qikŏu 377-8Qin Shi Huang 937Qīngdǎo 220-9, 222Qing dynasty 940, 942-3Qīnghǎi 891-908, 892

climate 891food 895highlights 892, 892history 893travel seasons 891travel to/from 893travel within 893

Qīnghǎi Lake 899-900Qīnghǎi–Tibet train line

923Qīnghuá 466Qīngyán 643-4Qīngyuǎn 580Qīnwáng Fǔ 888Qíyún Shān 405Quánzhōu 350-3, 351Qūfù 214-19, 215

Rrabies 1022-3rafting

Dàlǐ 684Kanas Village 830Shāpōtóu 871Wǔyíshān 357Yellow River 871, 872Zhāngjiājiè 481, 482

refunds 1004religion 32, 935, 958-64,

982-4reserves, see national

parks & reservesRì Yuè Bay 605rivers 986-7rock carvings

Chagpo Ri 916Dàzú Buddhist Caves

795-6 Hèlán Shān 870Lóngmén Grottoes 431Màijī Shān 862Princess Wencheng

Temple 905-6rock climbing

Yángshuò 621, 495Rock, Joseph 709Ruìlì 719-21, 719ruins, see archaeological

sites & ruins

Ssafety 1005

Xīnjiāng 802Saga 924Sakya 929Samye Monastery 924Sānbà 704Sānfāng Qīxian 355Sāngkē Grasslands 844Sānjiāng 619-20Sānqīng Shān 467-8Sānyà 605-9, 606Sānyuèsān Festival 604Sayram Lake 831schistosomiasis

(bilharzia) 1023sculpture 460, 978Sea of Heat 718Sèdá 766Sera Monastery 923-4Shaanxi 379-99, 380


Shāmiàn Island 560

Shāndōng 201-35, 202highlights 202

Shàngdū 882-3Shànghǎi 16, 290-336,

292-3, 16, 662accommodation 290,

311-18activities 310-11Bund, the 13, 291, 294-

5, 298, 300-1, 296-7, 300-1, 12, 300, 301

climate 290costs 291drinking 323-6entertainment 326-8events 311 festivals 311food 290, 318-23French Concession 16,

299-302, 320-1, 324-6, 304-5, 16

highlights 292-3, 292-3history 291Hóngkǒu 309itineraries 294Jìng’ān 303-6, 316, 321-

2, 326, 317nightlife 323-6north Shànghǎi 309Old Town 298-9, 314,

319-20, 324People’s Square 291,

294-5, 298, 296-7Pǔdōng 306-9, 316-17,

322-3, 308Shanghai Station 314shopping 328-31sights 291-310tourist information

331-2tours 311travel seasons 290travel to/from 332-4travel within 334-5West Nanjing 317

Shanghai Street 511Shangri-la 706-10, 707Shānhǎiguān 152-5, 153Shàntóu 593Shānxī 358-78, 359


Sháoshān 476-8Shàoxīng 289

1048

IND

EX S-T

Shāpōtóu 871Shāxī 691-3Shénnóngjià 451-2Shěnyáng 169-73, 170,

665Shēnzhèn 581-5, 583Shèxiàn 409-10Shì Wěi 887-90 Shigatse 926-9, 927Shíjiāzhuāng 142-5, 143Shílín 677-8Shíméi Bay 605Shipton’s Arch 816Shùhé 701Sìchuān 730-81, 732-3

accommodation 730climate 730food 730highlights 732-3travel seasons 730

Silk Road 18, 820-1, 822-8, 937, 18

silkworms 941Singing Sands Dune 860Sìpíng 283Sir Robert Ho Tung

Library 538-9Sīxī 466-7skiing 177, 183, 196socialist realism 975Song dynasty 939-40Sōng Shān 425-8Sōngjiānghé 179-80Sōngpān 773-7, 774Southern Garzê

Prefecture 768-73spirits 972sporting events

Great Wall Marathon 137

Spring Festival 34, 35Star Ferry 515stilt houses 792, 797stupas, see chörtenSummer Palace 91, 94-5,

96-7, 7, 31surfing 37, 605, 607Sūzhōu 250-8, 252, 258synagogues

Harbin Main Synagogue 190-1

Ttable tennis 946Tǎgōng 766-8Tài Shān 23, 211-14,

212, 23 Tài’ān 207-11, 208taichi 449Taipa 546-7, 547Tàishùn County 280Tàiyuán 368-71, 369Taklamakan Desert

815-16, 822Tang dynasty 938-9Taoism 961

temples 983-4Tashilhunpo Monastery

926taxes 1004taxis 1014tea 972Tea Horse Road 691telephone services 1005-6Temple of Heaven Park

84-5, 497, 496temples 32, 79-82, 90,

220, 497, 982-4, see also monasteries

Bǎisuì Gōng 416Bakong Scripture

Printing Press & Monastery 763

Bamboo temple 677Bǎochù Pagoda 270Big Goose Pagoda 383Black Dragon Temple

377Cǎo’ān Manichaean

Temple 354Chi Lin Nunnery 513City God Temple 373,

398Confucius Temple

(Hánchéng) 397-8Confucius Temple

(Quánzhōu) 351Confucius Temple

(Qūfù) 214-16Confucius Temple

(Tiānjīn) 137Dà Zhào 878Darjay Gompa 764Dōngyuè Temple 91Duōbǎo Pagoda 285Fǎmén Temple 393Fǎyǔ Temple 284Gāo Temple 870Giant Buddha Temple

850

God of Wealth Temple 155

Guāndì Temple 150, 350Guǎnghuì Temple 145-6Guǎngrén Temple 382Hanging Monastery 365Huàchéng Sì 416Huáyán Temple 362Huìjì Temple 285Jade Buddha Temple

303-6Jīmíng Temple 243Jīmíngyì Museum 155Jìncí Temple 371Jìng’ān Temple 303Jǐnjiāng Pagoda 166Jokhang Temple 915Kāiyuán Temple 145,

351Labrang Monastery

839-41Lama Temple 79Léifēng Pagoda 269Lìjiāng 699Línggǔ Temple Scenic

Area 244-5Língyǐn Temple 266-7Línjì Temple 145Lóngxīng Temple 145Miàoyīng Temple White

Dagoba 89Míngyuè Temple 259Monastery of Deep

Compassion 136Mùtǎ Tower 365Nánchán Sì 894Nánpǔtuó Temple 340North Temple Pagoda

254Pearl Pagoda 260Princess Wencheng

Temple 905-6Pǔjì Temple 284Pǔlè Temple 151Pǔníng Temple 150Pǔtuózōngchéng

Temple 150-1Qīxiá Temple 249Quánfú Temple 261Residence of the

Celestial Masters 469Shànhuà Temple 362Shàolín Temple 425Shuānglín Temple 376Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai

Sin Temple 512-13Six Harmonies Pagoda

269

Sleeping Buddha Temple 96-7

Tàiqīng Palace 230Tǎyuàn Temple 367Temple of Bliss 190Temple of Eternal

Tranquility 155-6Temple of Heaven Park

84-5, 497, 496Temple of Mystery 253Temple of Sumeru,

Happiness & Longevity 151

Temple of the Chief Minister 435

Temple of the Eight Immortals 383-5

Tiānhòu Temple 221Tiānníng Temple 145Twin Pagoda Temple/

Yǒngzuò Temple 368Twin Pagodas 253White Cloud Temple 89White Horse Temple

432-3Wǔtǎ Pagoda 878Wǔtái Shān 366-7Xiǎntōng Temple 367Xīnguóchán Temple 203Xītiān Fánjìng 86-7Yak Butter Scripture

Temple 900Yán Temple 217Yarchen Gar Buddhist

Institute 768Yu Ancestral Hall 147Yuánguāng Temple 873Zhènguó Temple 376Zhìhuà Temple 75Zhīyuán Temple 416Zhōngyuè Temple 427

Téngchōng County 716-19, 717

Tengger Desert 872Terracotta Warriors 15,

391-2, 938, 15Three Gorges Dam 53,

452Tiān Shān 807-8Tiān’ānmén Square 74Tiānjīn 133-56, 135-42,

134, 138accommodation 133,

137-9activities 137climate 133drinking 140events 137


1049IN

DEX T- Y

festivals 137food 133, 139-40highlights 134information 141-2nightlife 140shopping 140-2sights 135-7travel seasons 133travel to/from 141-2travel within 142

Tiānlóng 655Tiānlóng Xuétáng 655-6Tiānshuǐ 861-2Tiánzǐfáng 299-302Tibet 909-32

accommodation 909climate 909, 914food 909highlights 910, 910history 911, 914language 914tour agencies 913travel restrictions

912-13, 920, 925travel seasons 909travel to/from 914travel within 914

Tibet travel restrictions 925

Tibet, travel to 710, 762Tibetan language 1033Tiěxī Gorge 651Tiger Leaping Gorge 20,

494, 701-4, 702, 20, 494

Tiger Mountain Great Wall 166

tigers 191time 26, 803, 1006Tingri 930-1tipping 29, 1004tombs

Abakh Hoja Mausoleum 814

Cemetery of Noblemen at Yǔshān 182

Cháng Líng 120Dìng Líng 120Hāmì Kings Mausoleum

811Hǎotàiwáng Stele 182Jiāngjūnfén (General’s

Tomb) 182Maulana Ashiddin

Mazar 812Mazar of Imam Asim

825

Ming Tombs 120-2Míng Xiàolíng Tomb 245North Tomb 171Zaghunluq Ancient

Mummy Tomb 823-4Zhāo Líng 121

Tónglǐ 259-60Tōnglíng Grand Canyon

636Tóngrén 901-3Tóngxīn 874tour agencies

Tibet 913tourist information 1006traditional medicine 839train travel 1015-19

Qīnghǎi-Tibet 923transport 27

language 1030-1, 1033safety 1005

Trans-Siberian Railway 1019travellers cheques 1004travel to/from China

1009-12travel within China

1012-14trekking, see hiking, horse

riding & trekking Tsang 925-30Tsim Sha Tsui East

Promenade 511, 660Tsingtao beer 227tǔlóu 347-50, 348tǔlóu roundhouses 22,

347-9, 22Túnxī 402-6, 403Turpan 808-9, 809Tuyoq 810typhoid 1023

UÜ 924Uighur language 1034Ürümqi 802-7, 804

Vvacations 1004-5vegetarians 50Victoria Harbour 17, 17Victoria Peak 507visas 193, 599, 1006-8,

1009Tibet 912-13, 920

volcanoesHǎikǒu Volcanic Cluster

Geopark 599-600

Lǎohēi Shān 197Lóngmén ‘Stone Village’

197Mǎzhàn Volcanoes 718Wéizhōu Island 634Wēnbó Lake 197-8Wǔdàlián Chí 197-8

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours

Běijīng 72, 83, 83Hong Kong 518, 518

Wanda Chángbái Shān International Resort 196

Wāngkǒu 464Wǎnpíng Town 123water 990, 1024waterfalls

Chángbái Waterfall 178Cháoyīn Waterfall 230Détiān Waterfall 636Diàoshuǐlóu

Waterfall 196Fúróng Zhèn

Waterfall 490Liúshā Waterfall 485Sāndiéquán

Waterfall 460Shízhàngdòng

Waterfall 658weather 34-7, see

also individual regionswebsites

health 1021Wei dynasty 937-8Wēiníng 656-7Wēishān 683Wéizhōu Dǎo 634West Lake 662Western Xià Tombs 867wildlife 987-91wildlife reserves

Giant Panda Breeding Research Base 734

Yǎ’ān Bìfēngxiá Panda Base 753

wine 972Wing Chun 994women in China 957Wong Fei Hung 572Wǔdàdào 140Wǔdàlián Chí 197-9Wǔdāng Shān 448-51Wǔhàn 442-7, 444Wǔlóng 797-8

Wǔtái Shān 365-8, 366Wǔwēi 848-9Wǔyí Shān 356-7Wùyuán 463-4, 465Wūzhèn 277-9Wǔzhǐshān 600WWII 948-9

XXī Shān 677Xiàguān 682-3Xiàhé 839-44, 840Xiàmén 339-44, 341Xī’ān 381-91, 384, 392Xiāngchéng 772xiǎolóngbāo 493Xiǎoqǐ 464Xīdì 406-7Xīhǎi Zhèn 900Xījiāng 647-8Xīngchéng 173-4Xīnglóng 609Xìngpíng 627Xīngyì 656Xīníng 893-9, 896Xīnjiāng 799-831, 800


Xīntiāndì 302Xīnyè 281Xīshuāngbǎnnà 722, 723Xǐzhōu 690Xuán Villa 590Xújiāhuì & South

Shànghǎi 309-10Xūmí Shān 873

YYǎ’ān 753-4Yàbùlì Ski Resort 196yak milk yoghurt 895Yánbiān Korean Autono-

mous Prefecture 178Yáncūn 466-7Yángměi 631Yángshuò 13, 621-4, 622,

495Yangzi River 23, 51-6, 52,

23, 55Yánjí 180-1Yāntái 231-4, 232Yáolǐ 462

1050

IND

EX Y- Z

Yàqīng 768Yarkand 827Yatsen, Sun 944-5Yellow Crane Tower 443Yellow River 908Yengisar 823Yíbīn 755-6Yíchāng 452-3Yínchuān 866-70, 867Yīníng 830-1Yòuníng Monastery 898Yuányáng Rice Terraces

21, 680, 681, 21, 33Yúcì Ancient City 371Yújiācūn 147

Yúlín 398-9Yúlín Grottoes 860Yùlóng River 660Yúnfēng Bāzhài 655Yúnfēng Shān 718Yúngāng Caves 19, 19,

664Yúnnán 666-729, 667

accommodation 666

climate 666food 666highlights 667travel seasons 666

Yùshù 904-5

ZZhālíng Lake 908Zhāngjiājiè 16, 480-5,

481, 16Zhāngyè 849-51Zhàoqìng 577-9, 578Zhàoxīng 648Zhàozhōu Bridge 144Zhèjiāng 263-89, 264


Zhèngdìng 145-7

Zhèngzhōu 422-5, 423Zhènyuǎn 649-51, 650Zhōngshān 797Zhōngwèi 870-2, 871Zhōuzhuāng 261-2Zhuàngdàokǒu 128-9Zhūgě 281-2Zhūhǎi 585-7, 587Zhūjiājiǎo 336Zhūjiāyù 207Zhūxiān Zhèn 439Zìgòng 754-5Zìlì 573Zīyuán 617Zōuchéng 219-20


1051N

OTES

1052

NO

TES

1053

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Bradley MayhewTibet Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years now. He started travelling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is the co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one re-

tracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s 10 most scenic long-distance trails.

Rebecca MilnerĀnhuī, Zhèjiāng, Hǎinán California born and longtime Tokyo-resident (14 years and counting!), Rebec-ca has co-written Lonely Planet guides to Tokyo, Japan, Korea and China. Her freelance writing covering travel, food and culture has been published in the Guardian, the Independent, the Sunday Times Travel Magazine, the Japan Times and more. After spending the better part of her twenties working to travel –

doing odd jobs in Tokyo to make money so she could spend months at a time backpacking around Asia – Rebecca was fortunate enough to turn the tables in 2010, joining the Lonely Planet team of freelance writers.

Kate MorganShànghǎi Having lived and travelled extensively in North Asia, Kate was very keen for the chance to get back to explore Shànghǎi. Days were spent shooting up to the top of Pǔdōng skyscrapers, hunting out the best boutiques in the French Concession, tracing Jewish history in Hóngkǒu, taste-testing oolong tea and dining on dump-lings…not a bad day’s work. Kate has worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now on destinations including Japan, India, Melbourne and Zimbabwe.

Christopher PittsHénán, Héběi, Tiānjīn Chris started off his university years studying classical Chinese poetry before a week in 1990s Shànghǎi (en route to school in Kūnmíng) abruptly changed his focus to the idiosyncracies of modern China. Several years in Asia memorising Chinese characters got him hooked, and he returns whenever he can to immerse himself in what is surely one of the world’s most fascinating languages. He’s written for Lonely Planet China since 2004. Visit him online at www.christopherpitts.net.

Tom SpurlingFújiàn, Húběi, Jiāngxī, Guìzhōu Tom is an Australian guidebook author and high school teacher currently based in Hong Kong in search of the long-lost expatriate package. He’s worked on 13 Lonely Planet titles, including Japan, China, Central America, Turkey, India, South Africa and Australia. When not chasing his tail, he enjoys tucking it under his crossed legs for minutes on end.

Phillip TangGuǎngdōng, Hēilóngjiāng, Liáoníng, Jílín Phillip grew up on typically Australian pho and fish’n’chips. A degree in Lat-in-American and Chinese cultures launched him into travel and writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. Phillip has made his home in Sydney, Melbourne, London and Mexico City. His travels include most countries in Europe, much of Asia and Latin America, as

well as the greatest hits of North America. Phillip writes about travel and the people there, who just call it living. He likes smelling fresh mint in a market in a new town and imagining a parallel life there. More pics and words: philliptang.co.uk. Phillip also wrote the Survival Guide chapters.


Helen ElferHángzhōu, Shànghǎi Helen made Shanghai her home between 2007-10, so she was delighted to be able to return and contribute to the latest Lonely Planet China and Shanghai guides. After a two-year stint in Abu Dhabi, she moved back to London, working as a travel writer for various newspapers and magazines. She’s currently Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for the Middle East and North Africa.

Daisy HarperShāndōng, Jiāngsū Born in the Shāndōng town of Qīngdǎo, Daisy grew up in China before going to university in Beijing to study English and then moving to the UK to pursue a career as a journalist and travel writer. A native speaker of Chinese, She has concentrated her energies on China travel, exploring and further fathoming her home country, working on four editions of Lonely Planet China to date.

Trent HoldenBěijīng A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30 plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when as-signed to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes

books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor, reviewer and spending all his money catching live gigs.

Stephen LioySìchuān Stephen is a photographer, writer, hiker, and travel blogger based in Central Asia. A ‘once in a lifetime’ Eurotrip and post-university move to China set the stage for what would eventually become a semi-nomadic lifestyle based on sharing his experiences with would-be travellers and helping provide that initial push out of comfort zones and into all that the planet has to offer.

Shawn LowQīnghǎi After many hot, sticky and sweaty years in Singapore, Shawn made for the cooler but more temperamental climes of Melbourne in 2001. He found his way into Lonely Planet as a book editor in 2006. Since then, he’s done two stints as a com-missioning editor and has constantly (sometimes successfully) flirted with the Lonely Planet TV. Shawn has penned a dozen LP guides and recently co-founded a London-based travel startup Firef.ly.

Tom MastersXīnjiāng Tom has been travelling in China since 2004, having begun teaching himself Man-darin in his bedroom aged 14 during a bout of Sinophilia from which he’s never quite recovered. Tom has written many books about off-the-beaten track desti-nations for Lonely Planet, including as a regular author on the Central Asia guide, which made him an obvious choice to cover Xīnjiāng for this book. Tom lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net

Emily MatcharChóngqìng, the Yangzi, Hong Kong A native of Chapel Hill, North Carolina, Emily first caught Relapsing Travel Fever during a high-school semester abroad in Argentina. To date, Emily has contribut-ed to some two dozen Lonely Planet guides. She also writes about culture, travel, politics and food for the New York Times, the Washington Post, the New Repub-lic, the Atlantic, Men’s Journal, Outside, Gourmet and many more. When she’s

not busy rating Memphis barbecue joints, wandering around night markets in Laos, or tramping in New Zealand, she can be found chowing down on dumplings in her adopted city of Hong Kong.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415315th edition – June 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 522 7© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSDamian HarperGuǎngxī, Húnán, Shaanxi, Shānxī, Inner Mongolia, Níngxià Ten years of British boarding school gave Damian every incentive to explore new horizons beyond home. A degree in History of Art at Leeds University followed in 1995 and a few years later Damian applied to work on the Lonely Planet China guide. Since then, Damian has served as coordinating author on seven editions of the guide and has co-authored multiple editions of the Beijing and Shanghai

city guides, Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei, Vietnam, Thailand, London, Great Britain and Ire-land; Damian also wrote the 1st edition of Shanghai Encounter and Best of Shanghai and co-wrote China’s Southwest (3rd edition) and two Hong Kong titles.Damian also wrote the Understand and Planning chapters.

Piera ChenHong Kong When not on the road, Piera divides her time between hometown Hong Kong, Taiwan and Vancouver. She has authored more than a dozen travel guides and contributed to as many travel-related titles. Piera has a BA in Literature from Pomona College. Her early life was peppered with trips to Taiwan, China and Southeast Asia, but it was during her first trip to Europe that dawn broke. She

remembers being fresh off a flight, looking around her in Rome, thinking, ‘I want to be doing this every day.’ And she has.

Megan EavesGānsù Megan is Lonely Planet’s North Asia Destination Editor and her writing has ap-peared in Lonely Planet’s guidebooks to China and South Korea. Having lived everywhere from her home state of New Mexico to eastern China and Prague, she’s now based in Lonely Planet’s London office, where she’s the resident beer nerd and dumpling addict. If lost, she is likely to be found stargazing in a desert somewhere.

David EimerYúnnán, Běijīng David has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of newspapers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely Planet since 2006.OVER

PAGEMORE WRITERS


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