beginning sewing book

7/29/2019 Beginning Sewing Book

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Beginning Sewing eBook

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1.Spool Pin This holds your thread as

you sew.

2.Bobbin winder spindle Holds the bob-

bin in place when winding bobbins.

3.Bobbin release Once your thread fills

the bobbin, this releases, causing bobbinwinding to stop.

4.Stitch width dial Controls the width of

your stitch. Higher number equals a wider

stitch. Use this on zig zag stitches.

5.Stitch Selection dial Use this to select

from the various stitches on your machine.

Computerized machines may have buttons

and an LCD screen to indicate stitch selec-

tion.

6.Handwheel Use this to manually raise

and lower the needle from the fabric. Al-

ways turn the handwheel toward you.

7. Stitch length dial Usethis to change the length of

your stitch. A higher number indi-

cates a longer stitch. The longest set-

ting is called a basting stitch, and is used

to hold fabrics together temporarily.

8.Reverse stitch lever Use this to sew

backward. Predominantly used to lock

stitches at the start and end of seams.

9.Power Switch Turns machine power

on and off.

10. Bobbin winder tension guide Regu-

lates the tension on the thread when wind-

ing a bobbin. Use your manual or use

indicators on the machine to determine thethreading process for bobbin winding.

11. Thread tension dial Controls the ten-

sion of your top thread. A higher number in-

dicates more tension applied to the thread.

12. Thread take-up lever Moves up and

down with the needle bar as you sew.

13. Needle clamp screw Holds the nee-

dle in place. Loosen to remove an old nee-

dle, put a new needle in place, then tighten

to secure the needle.

14. Presser Foot Is raised and lowered

using a lever on the back or right side of

the needle bar. When down, holds fabric inplace for sewing. When it is raised it re-

leases thread tension. Always thread the

machine with the presser foot in the raised

position.

15. Bobbin cover Covers the bobbin

area while sewing.

16. Bobbin cover release button Push to

release the bobbin case cover and insert a

new bobbin.

17. Feed dog Group of teeth that feed

fabric forward when sewing. Some ma-

chines have a lever to drop the feed dogs,

enabling the user to feed fabric manually

(not recommended for beginners usedfor special applications).

18. Needle Moves up and down to cre-

ate stitches.

19. Needle plate a metal plate beneath

the needle and presser foot. Often con-

tains markings to aid in stitch placement.

Contains an opening for the needle, and

one for the feed dogs.

Special thanks to sew4home.com.

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Use this sewing machinemap to help you get

acquainted with theparts of your sewing

machine.


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Cutting

Shears

Snips

Seam Rippers Pinking Shears

Measuring and Marking

Chalk Pencil Tape Meausre Gridded Ruler Vanishing Fabric Marker

Regular Pencil


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Sewing

Thread Pins

Needles Iron Bobbins Fabric

Your Machine

Mechanical ComputerizedThe Janome Sewist 500

Use dials for stitch selection Components are controlled by

mechanical means, rather than acomputer

The Janome Magnolia 7330

Computerized machines offer a

wider range of features, andmemory capabilities


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Mechanical Machines

Stitch Selection

Change stitches bydial selector May be called PatternSelection

Handwheel Use this to manually raise and

lower your needle Very important for turningcorners, when you want yourneedle to remain in the fabric Always turn the handwheel

toward you

Stitch LengthAdjustment

Use this to adjust youstitch length for differ-

ent applications

Adjust stitches from1-5; Use 2-3 for normalsewing

A long stitch (5),called a basting stitch,can be used to hold

fabric together tem-porarily Remember: thesmaller your stitches,

the harder it is toremove them!

Stitch Width Adjustment Use this to make yourstitches wider especiallyhelful on zig-zag stitch

Be careful which foot youhave on when makingadjustments, so you dont

break your needle!

Reverse Stitch Lever

Used to securestitching at the startand end of seams

Tension AdjustmentWhen diagnosing tension problems, always re-thread your top and bobbin thread and try

sewing again. This often does the trick When tension is out of balance, threads willbreak, or seams will pucker

Problems with the top thread will appear onthe bottom and vice versa To loosen, adjust to lower number. To tighten,go to higher number; move 1/2 step increments

and test This only adjusts the top tension, if you haveloops on the top of your fabric, make sure thebobbin thread is in the case correctly

Threading Make sure you always thread your

machine with the presser foot up Many machines have numberedguides to follow

Reference your manual for specificthreading instructions


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Computerized Machines

Convenience FeaturesComputerized machines in-

clude a number of additionalfeatures to make sewing easier These include a lockingstitch button, a memorized

needle up/down button anda start/stop button

Speed Control SliderUse the slider to control

your speed. Set it low fordifficult angles and curves

Stitch Adjustment Buttons Buttons, rather than dials, allowyou to change stitches and

settings


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Feed Dog

This feature pulls your fabric forwardwhen sewing

The more advanced machines mayhave a higher number of feed dogs, ormay have additional abilities, like a builtin walking foot, to advance fabric from

the top and bottom at once

Plate Guides

Use seam guides to help guide yourfabric as you are sewing

Line the fabric with a guide, and look

at that as you sew, not at the needleand fabric

There are also add-on fabric guides,

and feet with guides for special tasks


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Winding a Bobbin

Reference your machinesmanual for specifics

Follow threading instructions

Push-Pull type pull outhandwheel to wind

Auto-Declutch Push overthe bobbin pin; the bobbin re-

leases when full

Inserting the Bobbin

Reference your machines man-ual for specific instructions

The bobbin locks the stitches onthe bottom of your seam

The bobbin thread has its own

tension, and you have to makesure that the thread is engagedin the tension spring


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Making SeamsYou need to secure or lock your stitches at the beginning and ending of each seam

Use the reverse stitch lever/button to sew in reverse at the start and end of seams

If your machine offers it, you can use a Locking Stitch button at the start and end ofseams. This function will tie off your seams for you.

When sewing, line the fabric up with the needle so that your stitches catch when youstart sewing.

BacktackingStart at the edge of the fabric and sew a few stitches

Press the reverse button or lever

Sew backward to the edge of the fabric

Release lever and sew forward

Repeat at the end of the seam

Locking Stitch

Simply press the button at the start and

end of each seam

Keep the foot pedal depressed until

needle stops moving

Makes a knot at the back of fabric


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Important Stitches

DecorativeStitches

Buttonhole

Blind Hem StitchStraight Stitch

Zig Zag Stitch

Overedge Stitch

Basting Stitch(straight stitchwith longerstitch length)

Stitching Corners

Needle up/down keepneedle in fabric at corner,

raise presser foot to pivot

Clip the corners when

turning to reduce bulk


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Make a Simple Hem

Step 1: Cut the fabric into one 18 square

Step 2: With wrong sides together, fold one edge

over and press in place. Fold over another

and press again. The raw edge is now enclosed in

the fold.

Step 3: Repeat Step 2 on the edge across from the

edge you just folded.

Step 4: Pin the two pressed and folded edges in

place.

Step 5: At the machine, stitch the hems in place,

keeping your stitches about 1/8 from the folded

edge. One trick is to put the right outside edge of the

presser foot against the fold to keep a straight line.

Step 6: Repeat steps 2-5 for the remaining two oppo-

site edges of the napkin. Pay special attention to the

corner folds, as there is added bulk in that seam.

Step 7: Press the finished napkin. Repeat steps to

complete additional napkins.

Supplies & Materials

Fabric of Choice for Napkin You will need

one 18 square for each napkin (You can

get four napkins out of 1 yard of fabric Thread in a color to match napkin

Scissors

Pins

Iron

Sewing Machine

Make a Napkin

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8


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Step One: Make a template.

Step Two: Place the two pieces of fabric for the acorn bot-

tom with right sides together. Trace around the acorn bot-

tom template with a pencil or fabric marking pen. You may

choose to pin the fabric pieces together.

Step Three: At your machine, stitch the two pieces of fabric together, following the line drawn from the

template.

Step Four: Trim around the shape, leaving about 1/8 of fabric past the

stitches. Cut a hole in the fabric of the back for turning right side out. Be

careful to stay away from the seam edges when cutting, and dont cut

into the front of the acorn!

Step Five: Turn the shape right side out and press flat.

Step Six: Repeat steps 2-5 to create the acorn top.

Step Seven: Pin the acorn bottom in place on the napkin, then stitch in place, placing stitches 1/8 from

the edge of the acorn.

Step Eight: Pin the acorn top in place (we overlapped the bottom slightly). Stitch in place, making

stitches 1/8 from the edge of the acorn top.

Step One: Create the acorn template.

Step Two: Trace the template onto the back of your

fabric, and cut out the pieces.

Step Three: Pin the acorn bottom piece to your base

fabric and stitch in place, making your stitches about

1/8 from the edge of the fabric.

Step Four: Pin the acorn top piece on the fabric, andstitch in place, making stitches about 1/8 from the

edge of the fabric.

Step Five: Press.


Scraps of fabric for top and bottom of acorn

Thread in colors to match fabric scraps

Scissors

Pins

Pencil or fabric marking pen

Template plastic or cardboard for

acorn templates

Iron

Sewing Machine

Appliqu - Raw EdgeAppliqu is attaching fabric for embellishment to a base fabric.

With raw edge appliqu, you just stitch the shape to the base fabric without

turning under the raw edges of the fabric.

Step 1

Step 2 Step 3

Finished Raw Edge Appliqu

Step 6

Appliqu - FacedIn Faced Appliqu, you stitch two pieces of fabric together, then turn them

right side out so that the edge of the fabric is finished.


Napkin or other product for embellishment

Scraps of fabrics in two colors for acorn

Thread in colors to match fabric scraps

Template plastic or cardboard for

acorn templates

Scissors

Pins

Pencil or Fabric Marking Pen

Sewing Machine

Step 1

Steps 2-4 Step 5

Finished Faced Appliqu


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beginning sewing book

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