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05/12/2014 This material is copyrighted by Koenders Water Solutions Inc.

and cannot be reproduced without prior approval.

BEARING REPLACEMENT INSTRUCTIONS

FOR WINDMILLS AND EL2S’

This Kit includes: 1 Special Low Speed 1” Bearing, 2 Flangettes, 3 Flange Bolts and 3 Flange Nuts

Your broken bearings may have caused damage elsewhere in your compressor. Check to make sure that your crankshaft is straight and free of damage and your connecting rod/piston assembly is aligned properly. Failure to follow these replacement instructions could reduce the life of your new bearings.

Windmill only 1) Loosen the 9 bolts in the centre of the spiders and remove the blade from the crankshaft.

2) Remove the 2 screws on the back cover plate and remove cover.

3) Remove the tail arms and pivot tube.

All models 4) Remove the 12 bolts from the top cover plate(s).

5) Before removing the old bearings, take note which side of the bearing plate the flangettes are on, and which side of the bearing the set screws are on (see image on page 2).

6) Remove the three bolts from connecting rod bearing #3. Mark the bearing holder on the outside (the side facing you), so it can be replaced the same way. DO NOT LOOSEN the 3/4" nut between the connecting rod and the bearing plate holder.

7) Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly. Check the diaphragm for cracks. If working on a Dual Diaphragm windmill with a one-piece piston you can only remove the piston after the crankshaft is removed in step 10.

8) Remove the 3 bolts from the middle bearing #2.

9) Loosen the set screws on the external bearing #1 and clean the rust from the crankshaft with emery cloth or fine sand paper from the bearing to the end of the crankshaft before attempting to remove the bearing.

10) Spray crankshaft with a penetrating oil. Tap the crankshaft out of the bearing using a plastic mallet OR a block of wood and a hammer. (Do not use a steel hammer directly on the crankshaft as damage will result.)

11) Clean rust from the crankshaft up to the bearing #2 with emery cloth or fine sand paper, loosen set screws and remove the bearing with either a bearing puller or a hydraulic press.

12) Loosen set screws and remove the connecting rod bearing #3 from the crankshaft with a bearing puller or a hydraulic press. Clean the entire crankshaft with emery cloth to remove rust and loctite. Use a file to remove the set screw marks.

13) Slide the new bearing #3 on to the crankshaft; ensure the bearing is tight against the offset. Apply Loctite 609 and leave overnight before tightening set screws.

14) Install Bearings #1 and #2 onto the compressor case (finger tighten only).

15) Slide the crankshaft into the bearings and gradually tighten the 3 bolts on each of the flangettes to the bearing plates (make sure bearing # 3 flangettes are in place BEFORE sliding the crankshaft in). If working on a Dual Diaphragm windmill with a one-piece piston it will need to be back in place before the crankshaft is added to the body.

16) After the bolts are tight the crankshaft should slide back and forth quite freely. If not, change your tightening sequence to release any strain (Hint: tighten like you would when replacing your car wheel)

17) Ensure set screws are positioned as per diagram on page 2, set screws on bearing # 1 & 3 are facing down and set screws on bearing # 2 are facing up. Tighten the set screws on bearings 1 & 2.

18) Install the piston and connecting rod assembly on to bearing # 3 with the previously applied mark to the outside. Attach with the 3 carriage or flanged bolts from the inside out. Ensure that the bearing #3 plate holder is parallel with the bearing # 2 plate holder, FINGER TIGHTEN ONLY.

19) Turn the crankshaft to top dead centre so the piston is level in the highest position.

20) Replace the diaphragm(s) if cracked or showing deterioration. At this time you should also check the disc insert valves to ensure they are functioning properly. Make note of the direction the valves are facing before removed from the nylon holder. When mouth tested you should only be able to blow through one way.

21) Replace the top cover plate(s) with the 12 bolts and finger tighten, hand crank the shaft several times to remove any tension in the diaphragm(s). Tighten the top cover plate(s) to 40 inch/lbs. Tighten flangettes on # 3 bearing.

Windmill only

22) Reassemble the tail arms and pivot tube.

23) Replace the back cover with 2 screws.

24) Install the blade onto the compressor crankshaft and tighten. PLEASE NOTE that tightening of the spider brackets around the crankshaft is very important. Thoroughly tighten all the bolts through the spider brackets and repeat tightening all the bolts 2 or 3 times. Tighten as evenly as possible to ensure that the blade runs true. When the spider brackets are properly tightened there should be no gap between the spider brackets around the shaft. If you have a torque wrench they are to be torqued to 96 inch pounds or 8 foot pounds.

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05/12/2014 This material is copyrighted by Koenders Water Solutions Inc.

and cannot be reproduced without prior approval.