bamboo and grasses

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Bamboosand Grasses


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Bamboosand Grasses

Jon Ardle


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LONDON, NEW YORK, MUNICH,MELBOURNE, DELHI

SENIOR EDITOR Zia AllawayACTING SENIOR DESIGNER Rachael Smith

MANAGING EDITOR Anna KrugerMANAGING ART EDITOR Alison Donovan

DTP DESIGNER Louise WallerPICTURE RESEARCH Lucy Claxton,

Richard Dabb, Mel WatsonPRODUCTIONCONTROLLERRebecca Short

PRODUCED FOR DORLINGKINDERSLEYAiredale Publishing Limited

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Ruth PrenticePRODUCTION MANAGER Amanda Jensen

PHOTOGRAPHYSarah Cuttle, David Murphy

First American Edition, 2007

Published in the United States byDK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street,

New York, NY 10014

07 08 09 10 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Copyright © 2007 Dorling Kindersley LimitedText copyright© 2007 Royal Horticultural Society

All rights reserved under International and Pan-AmericanCopyright Conventions. No part of this publication may bereproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in

any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the priorwritten permission of the copyright owner. Published in

Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.

A Cataloging-in-Publication record for this book isavailable from the Library of Congress.

ISBN-13: 978-0-7566-2691-4

ISBN-10: 0-7566-2691-9

DK books are available at special discounts for bulkpurchases for sales promotions, premiums, fund-raising, oreducational use. For details, contact: DK Publishing Special

Markets, 375 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014 [email protected]

Reproduced by Colourscan, SingaporePrinted and bound byTein Wah Press, Singapore

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Contents 6

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154156160

Designing withgrasses & bamboosFind inspiration in these beautifully plantedgrass and bamboo gardens.

Getting startedLearn about the conditions your plants enjoyand how to plant them.

Planting recipesUse these exciting planting combinationsto add drama to your garden.

Caring for your plantsDiscover the best ways to keep your plantslooking good throughout the year.

Plant guideChoose bamboos, grasses, and grasslikeplants from this comprehensive guide.

SuppliersIndexAcknowledgments


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Whatever the setting, be it a gravelgarden, Asian-style design, or patiodisplay, bamboos, grasses, andgrasslike plants can make it special.In this chapter, discover the beauty

of these versatile plants, and howto create a range of exciting designsby combining them with owers,shrubs, and trees.

Designingwith grasses& bamboos


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All-grass plantings 9


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10 Designing with grasses and bamboos

Grasses and bamboos in mixed borders

Grasses and bamboos can add an exotictouch to traditional herbaceous andmixed borders, whether sunny or shaded.

Choose them carefully to integrate withthe vigor and appearance of existingplantings for beautiful effects.


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Grasses and bamboos in mixed borders 11

Pictures clockwise from top far left Feathers and fire In this planting,grasses provide an effective foil for thevivid scarlet flowers of Crocosmia . The airyfawn flowerheads of Spanish oat grass(Stipa gigantea ) add a hazy backdrop,throwing the flowers into even sharperrelief, and harmonize with the softerflowers of feather grass ( Stipa tenuissima ).Both grasses will still have flowers longafter those of Crocosmia have faded,creating a more subtle, but no lessattractive, display.Woodland walk Many bamboos areforest understory plants in their native

habitats and so are ideal for shaded,woodland schemes. Placing examples ofthe same species on either side of a pathnot only contrasts with the shape of thetrees forming the canopy, but leads the eye(and feet) farther on. The upright bamboostems a nd lower-growing rounded shrubsalso create a harmonious picture.Making a statement Bamboos areunsurpassed as large, bold, and exoticspecimen plants, but for their impact

to be undiminished, their companionsmust be chosen carefully. In theforeground of this planting, the yellowflowers of a spurge, Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii , echo the color andform of the magnificent golden culms(stems) of a Phyllostachys bamboo,while the spidery white flowers ofMagnolia stellata light up the background.Like the bamboo, the magnolia is a nativeof Asia.

Moving screen In an exquisite showgarden designed by Tom Stuart-Smith,the airy, translucent nature and sheer heightof Spanish oat grass ( Stipa gigantea ) havebeen exploited to the fullest. The plantscreate a moving screen, waving above, butnever obscuring, a naturalistic, pastelplanting of salvias, marguerite daisies,stachys, and burgundy bearded irises.


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Prairie planting

Inspired by the natural plant communitiesof the North American prairies and theRussian steppes, prairie planting is a

popular, low-maintenance, and drought-tolerant style of gardening.

Pictures clockwise from right Small scale Prairie plantings can be scaled down tosuit smaller plots by using short grasses and perennials.Among the smaller grasses planted in this garden areMolinia, Deschampsia , and Calamagrostis x acutiflora, withSiberian irises (Iris sibirica) , Knautia macedonica, daylilies(Hemerocallis), and Salvia pratensis among the perennials.

Late-season appeal One of the major attractionsof prairie plantings is their long season of interest; in fall,Stipa gigantea flowers are still going strong, as are theblue spires of Perovskia atriplicifolia. The sphericalseedheads of globe thistles ( Echinops) and sea hollies(Echium) help give the planting structure through winter.Classic combination One of the most characteristicNorth American prairie plants is black-eyed Susan(Rudbeckia). With the hazy bronze flowers of Stipatenuissima , a beautiful, long-lasting combination is created .


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Prairie planting 13


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Meadow planting

Meadows are basically mixtures ofgrasses and wild owers. Originallythe result of traditional farming

practices, meadows can be shrunkto t a domestic garden.

Pictures clockwise from right Perennial meadows Seed mixtures of perennial grassesand flowers are available to suit many soil types andsituations. For relatively moist, semi-shaded positions,daisies, buttercups, and snake’s-head fritillaries can beadded to grassland as small “plug” plants or bulbs.Annual mixes Probably the easiest type of meadow to

establish is one based on a preformulated mix of annualgrasses and wild flowers. Sown onto cleared ground, thesegive a beautiful flowering meadow of annual poppies(Papaver ) and cornflowers ( Centaurea cyanus ) withinweeks, but will need resowing every spring. Using nativespecies makes meadows particularly valuable to wildlife.Grass flowers The flowerheads of many grasses, such asfountain grass ( Pennisetum alopecuroides , far right) andwild barley ( Hordeum jubatum , below) are beautiful intheir own right, particularly if grown in full sun when theytake on tinges of pink. It is important to match the vigor

of the grasses to those of the wild flowers: meadowsactually succeed best in poor, dry soils, where it is easierfor the flowers to compete with the grasses.


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Gravel gardens

The graceful forms of grasses andbamboos look great when planted ingravel, where they usually grow well,

relishing the sharp drainage. Place aweed-suppressing fabric under the gravelfor a beautiful low-maintenance garden.


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Gravel gardens 17

Pictures clockwise from left Neutral backdrop Gravel helps tohighlight individual grasses by providingthem with a neutral backdrop. Clump-forming types are ideally suited to gravelgardens, but leave plenty of room betweenthe plants or the effect is lost.Golden grass Stipa gigantea ‘GoldFontaene’, Spanish oat grass, makes abeautiful specimen for a gravel garden. Itforms an upright mound around 30 in(75 cm) high, from which rise yellow flowerstems in summer up to 6 ft (1.8 m) tall.Bamboo foil Gravel sets off bamboosbeautifully. Adding a few water-smoothed

cobbles or pebbles enhances the look, theirrounded edges contrasting with the straightlines of the bamboo canes.Blue grass edging One of the moststriking small grasses is Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’, with its bright blue evergreenleaves. Forming tight, low clumps, it isexcellent for edging paths or borders.


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Contemporary and low-maintenance gardens

Given their diversity of colors, shapes,and textures, and the fact that mostneed very little attention, grasses and

bamboos are ideal plants to accompanythe sleek lines and cutting-edgematerials of modern gardens. They areparticularly suited to low-maintenancedesigns and “outdoor rooms.”

Pictures clockwise from top left Lawn alternative In a unusual take on the traditional

lawn, this garden features a rectangle of low-growinggreen succulent sedum matting edged with a wide strip ofarching, light-flowered feather grass ( Stipa tenuissima ).Unlike a lawn, neither requires mowing. Spires of whitefoxgloves push through the grasses, breaking up theexpanse of green.Unashamedly modern Forming the dramatic cornerof an outdoor room, a galvanized square containerhouses a gorgeous Phyllostachys bambusoides ‘Castillonii’,with its orange, green-striped stems. The bamboo isunderplanted with purple berberis and flanked by bold

bearded iris, a purple-leaved hardy geranium, and, tochime with the bamboo, a switch grass ( Panicum ).Mirror images The color of versatile fescue, Festuca

glauca , makes it ideal for use with modern materials, suchas mirrored tiling, stainless steel, and black floor tiles. Inthis small, modern garden, a flowering blue Festuca in thecenter of the display is flanked by another cultivar yet tobloom. The fescue’s flowers are relatively inconspicuous,and are just as blue as the leaves. The design incorporatesan innovative water feature installed below the clearpaving in the foreground.


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Contemporary and low-maintenance gardens 19


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Asian gardens

Chinese and Japanese gardens are oasesof green in which rocks and gravel,water, and plants are combined to

create idealized pictures of nature. Theeffect relies on the juxtaposition offoliage shapes and textures, makingbamboos and grasses perfect choices.

Pictures clockwise from below Bamboo grove If space is not limited, bamboos suchas Yushania maculata can be planted alone and allowedto form groves, through which paths can be cut.

Contemplative scene The main impact of thisJapanese-inspired garden comes from foliage color andshape, including the fine leaves of grasses and sedges,which are used primarily around the pond.Asian screen Traditional wooden Japanese-style screensprovide the perfect backdrop to clumps of Phyllostachys.In Japan, the screens would be faced with opaque heavyrice paper; in colder and wetter climates, clouded acrylic ismore appropriate.Authentic composition A shady corner in this Japanesetea garden suits arrow bamboo ( Fargesia ), which displays

its elegant, arching habit well, echoing the pendulousWisteria flowers and leaves to the left in the foreground.


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Asian gardens 21


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Screens, hedges, and dividers

Grasses and bamboos are seldom seenas hedges or screens, but the largerspecies and cultivars, particularly

evergreen bamboos, pampas grass, andthe larger Miscanthus grasses, are ideallysuited to this purpose.


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Screens, hedges, and dividers 23

Pictures clockwise from far left East meets west Tall, evergreen,and growing at least as quickly as mostconiferous hedges, bamboos can quicklycreate an impenetrable, elegant, and low-maintenance hedge. Here, green-stemmedPhyllostachys species planted closelytogether form an effective backdrop to aclassical style bench and urn on a pedestalin an unusual east-meets-west juxtapositionof designs and influences.Drawing the eye Positioned carefully,even a single bamboo can effectively maskan unwanted view or feature, such as a shedor garbage cans, or act as the terminus

to a more traditional conifer hedge, andbecome a focal point in its own right.Large grass screens The tallestornamental grasses can be used to formvery effective hedges and screens if plantedclosely enough together so that the clumpsmerge. The largest Miscanthus sinensis cultivars, such as ‘Grosse Fontäne’ and‘Graziella’, can top 6 ft (1.8 m), whileMiscanthus sinensis var. condensatus ‘Cosmo Revert’ can reach 10 ft (3 m). All

flower well over a long period, and themovement of their leaves and plumelikeflowerheads in the wind adds an extradimension of movement and sound.Miscanthus are deciduous grasses, but thebleached dead stems and flowerheads areattractive even in winter. For an evergreengrass screen, pampas grasses ( Cortaderia

selloana ) are ideal, again reaching up to10 ft (3 m) high.Meadow dividers For a low screen thatdivides areas but can also be looked overas well as through, “exotic meadows” ofsmall grasses mixed with perennials arethe perfect solution. Feather reed grass(Calamagrostis ), hair grass ( Deschampsia ),and switch grass ( Panicum ) all grow toaround 3–4 ft (90–120 cm), and look goodplanted alongside understated perennials,such as Arisaema , Aquilegia , and Astrantia .


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Container designs 25


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Ground-cover plantings

Many grasses, grasslike plants, and a fewof the smaller bamboos make excellentground-cover plants. Space several plants

at regular intervals and they will soonknit together into an ornamental, weed-suppressing block.


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Ground-cover plantings 27

Pictures clockwise from left Shaded elegance One of the mostbeautiful of all grasses, Hakonechloa macra is available in several variegated forms andwill grow happily in shade, although thevariegation is brighter in sun. Here, it formsa carpet beneath a cherry tree, its archingstems rippling in the slightest breeze.Understated show This simple butbeautiful scheme includes clippedboxwood, yellow-flowered spurge(Euphorbia ), and tufted hair grass(Deschampsia cespitosa ). Deschampsia is anexcellent clump-forming grass for plantingin shade or semi-shade. It produces airy

flowerheads relatively early in the year.Damp shade duo Few grasses relishdamp, heavy soils in shade but, fortunately,many sedges thrive in such conditions. Here,gold-edged hostas are interplanted witha low, sprawling mat of golden sedge(Carex aurea ).Black and gold mix This simple buteffective ground-cover combination setsgold variegated Hakonechloa macra withthe black grass Ophiopogon planiscapus

‘Nigrescens’. One of few plants with trulyblack foliage, this Ophiopogon is not agrass a t all but a member of the bindweed(Convolvulus) family.


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Bog and water gardens

Few grasses relish permanently wet feet,unlike sedges and other grasslike plants,which thrive in such conditions. Many of

these are, in fact, true water plants thatgrow with their roots submerged buttheir leaves above water.

Pictures clockwise from top left Container water garden Creating a water garden ina large container, such as a half-barrel, brings a waterfeature within the scope of even the smallest garden.Choose carefully, since many water plants are too vigorous

for such a limited space, and confine them within plasticplanting baskets. Here, upright Typha minima , the smallestof the cattails, complements the floating leaves of a dwarfwater lily ( Nymphaea cultivar).Woodland stream One of the few shade- and moisture-tolerant true grasses, hairgrass ( Deschampsia cespitosa )is a native of woodland edges and clearings, formingattractive, sprawling green tussocks and floweringrelatively early in the year. The wider and more uprightleaves of Siberian irises in the shade of a nearby treecomplement it well in this naturalistic streamside planting.

Luxuriant planting Around the edges of this smallpond, an abundance of foliage—grasses, sedges,and herbaceous plants—is used to great ornamentaleffect. The large grass on the right, Cortaderia fulvida ,prefers a moist site. Although perennial, it performs likemany annual grasses and begins to brown as floweringprogresses, but the dead leaves are easily removed. Inthe foreground, the foliage of Bowles’ golden sedge(Carex elata ‘Aurea’) and the steely-hued Festuca glauca form a colorful ensemble with the wide-leaved variegatedhostas and upright yellow spikes of Ligularia.

Minimalist stripes Around the edge of an imposingconcrete wall, which hides tanks designed to capturewater to fill the pond, the strongly ascending stems of ahorsetail, Equisetum ramosissimum var. japonicum , echothe stripes in the concrete. The horizontal bands formedby the horsetail nodes and the more loosely structuredreeds ( Phragmites ) on the right make a striking contrast,and help to create a simple, elegant, arrestingcontemporary design.


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Bog and water gardens 29


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To understand how to grow andcare for your plants, it’s useful toknow how they live in their naturalhabitats. In this chapter, nd outmore about bamboos, grasses, andother plants, so that you can providethem with the conditions they enjoy.

Also learn how to evaluate your siteand soil, and follow the tips onchoosing a planting style to suit yourgarden. Finally, get your plants offto a good start with some simpleplanting and sowing techniques.

Gettingstarted


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32 Getting started

What is a grass?

Grasses form one of the largest andmost widely distributed families ofowering plants. All true grasses are

members of the Poaceae , but not everyplant with strap-shaped leaves is a grass.

Natural ground cover Grasses form the dominantvegetation across great swaths of Earth, including theAfrican savannas, North American prairies, Russiansteppes, and South American pampas. They can surviveon little water, and grow from the stem and leaf bases, sothey are able to withstand damage, including grazing.


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What is a grass? 33

Varied form and color There are relatively fewgrasses with real ornamental qualities, given the size ofthe family. However, those that are decorative offer a

wealth of colors, shapes, and sizes. Not all are green:

grasses may be blue, red, bronze, or silver. There areannual species, perennials, deciduous grasses with goodfall color, and many evergreens. Some are clump-forming;

others spread sideways, forming ground cover.

Food sources Almost all the world’s most importantcrop plants are grasses, including rice, wheat, barley, oats,and rye. The grass family could be seen as the foundationof human society—it formed the basis of settled farming,including the establishment of pastures for raising animals.

Ethiopian fountain grass(Pennisetum villosum ) producesbeautiful white “foxtail”owers. It forms spreadingtussocks but is not very hardy.

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Silberfeder’, one of the largestof a group of late-oweringornamental grasses, can reach5 ft (1.5 m) in height.

Imperata cylindrica ‘ Rubra’ is a striking-looking grass,with red coloring that creepsdown the leaves as theseason progresses.

Elymus magellanicus , a bluewheat grass from SouthAmerica, forms lax, intenselysilver-blue clumps. Few plantscan match it for coloring.

Pollination Grass flowers are very different from thebright, nectar-rich, often scented blooms of most plants,because they are pollinated by wind, not insects. The maleflower parts produce huge quantities of tiny, light pollengrains that are blown onto the female parts by chance.


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35What is a bamboo? 35

Root systems Bamboos have two basic growth forms,controlled by the root system. Clump-forming speciesexpand sideways relatively slowly; their roots branchand produce new culms (stems) at short intervals.Running species send up new shoots from faster-spreading roots at wider intervals, and can be invasive.Most temperate species behave like clump-formers.

Clumping root system Running root system

Bamboo shapes and forms Bamboos are foliage plants par excellence and have a unique presence in the garden.Most of them are nowhere near as invasive as is popularlybelieved, being no more difficult to control than trees orshrubs that require annual pruning. They range in size

from true dwarf bamboos, only a foot or two high, totowering plants rivaling trees for stature. The diversity inheight, leaf size, culm (stem) color, and habit is alwaysexpanding as new species and cultivars are introducedinto cultivation.

Fargesia robusta is a relativelylarge-leaved, exposure-tolerantspecies that makes a goodhedge, reaching 12 ft (4 m).The culms have fawn sheaths.

Phyllostachys nigra is unique,and deservedly popular, for thecontrast between its greenleaves and the shiny culms,which turn black as they age.

Sasa palmataf. nebulosa ishandsome, but it runs toexcess and should be connedto a container or kept out ofsmaller gardens altogether.

Pleioblastus variegatus also runsto excess (like allPleioblastus ),but is one of the best variegatedbamboos, and much smallerthan Sasa , so easier to control.

• Chusquea• Fargesia• Himalayacalamus• Phyllostachys (in

behavior)• Semiarundinaria (in

behavior)• Thamnocalamus

• Bashania• x Hibanobambusa• Indocalamus• Pleioblastus• Pseudosasa• Sasa• Sasaella• Yushania (in behavior)

Clumping bamboos include: Running bamboos include:


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36 Getting started

Plants that resemble grasses

A wide range of plants with long,narrow, straplike leaves are often calledgrasses, even though they are unrelated

to the grass family. Here are some of thebest of the grasslike plants.

Moisture-loving grasslike plants Many grasslikespecies, such as cattails ( Typha), thrive in moist, ordownright wet, soils and in full or partial shade—conditionsthat the fine, fibrous root systems characteristic of truegrasses do not tolerate.


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Plants that resemble grasses 37

Different families and forms

It is difcult to generalize about plants resembling grasses,since most are not remotely related to the grass family, orto each other (as a close examination of their owers willreveal). With some, such as many of the sedges, and the

Sedges The sedge family is quitelarge and diverse, and in evolutionaryterms, much older than the grassfamily. Most of its members areevergreen and found in wet ground.

Woodrushes Luzula are members ofthe rush family adapted to life in thewoods. They are very drought- andshade-tolerant, and one of the fewgrasslike plants to thrive under trees.

Rushes True rushes of the genus Juncus are real moisture-lovers, withupright stems and leaves so reducedas to seem absent. Cultivars of severalspecies have curly leaves.

Cattails Typha species form theirown family and may be incorrectlycalled “bulrushes.” Handsomeaquatic plants, they are vigorousgrowers and can prove invasive.

Mondo grass Most often seen inits black-leaved form, Ophiopogon

planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’, mondograss, produces small, lilylike owersfollowed by black berries.

Horsetails Equisetum are ancient,primitive plants, which reproduce likeferns, by spores and not seeds. Theyare best grown in pots to curb theirwandering tendencies.

Carex genus in particular, their similarity to grasses is soclose it is difcult to tell them apart, whereas with mondograss, the owers are so obviously designed to attractinsects that, in bloom, it is clear they are not grasses at all.


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38 Getting started

Evaluating your site

One of the secrets of success ingardening is putting the right plant inthe right place, but growing conditions

can vary markedly even within thesmallest yard, so check yours carefully.

Which way? The direction a garden faces is known as itsexposure, and is important because it governs the amountof direct sunlight the garden receives. South-facinggardens get the most sun, north-facing ones the least.Those facing east or west get full sun for part of the day.It is easy to find your garden’s exposure with a compass.

Sun, shade, and wind A garden’s immediatesurroundings also affect the amount of light it receives.Buildings, hedges, and large trees all get in the way ofdirect sunlight, casting shadows and creating shade. Evensouth-facing gardens surrounded by buildings or trees canbe in shade for most of the day. Sunlight has a majorbearing on which plants can be grown successfully in agarden, but another important factor is exposure—in anopen, sunny garden without walls or hedges, there isnothing to break the prevailing wind, which can damageplants and suck moisture out of leaves. Some plants cancope with this exposure, but others prefer a moresheltered site where the effects of the wind are temperedby buildings, fences, or trees.

By evening, much of the garden is shaded by the hedge at the reaAt midday, the sun is closest to overhead and there is little shade.

Weak morning sun illuminates most of this garden.


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39Evaluating your site 39

Assessing a garden’s microclimates When decidingwhere to place a plant in your garden, look at the growingconditions, and the needs and preferences of the plantitself. Grasses tend to prefer an open, sunny spot, which isalso likely to be drier, whereas sedges, woodrushes, andother grasslike plants prefer shadier conditions. Mostbamboos will take sun or part shade.


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40 Getting started

Assessing your soil

The type of soil in your yard determineswhich plants will grow happily there. Puta plant in soil similar to that in which it

Sandy soil is crumbly and dry.The left-hand tube contains near-neutral soil, the other is alkaline.

Different soil typesBefore you plant anything in your garden, take the timeto assess your soil type—it is crucial when selectingappropriate plants. Unsuitable or poor soil can beimproved ( see opposite ), but you have to know your soiltype before choosing the appropriate method. Soil typecan vary markedly across the same garden, too, so checkthe soil in several different areas.

Soil texture Soil is made up of particles whose sizecontrols the amount of water, organic matter, and plantnutrients it can hold. To assess soil texture, dig a smallsample of soil from the garden and rub it between yourfingers. If it feels gritty and will not form a ball, but leavesyour hands fairly clean, it contains a lot of sand. This soil islikely to be free-draining and on the dry side, and manygrasses prefer this. If a soil feels smooth, slippery, andsticky, and can be molded into a ball, it contains a lot ofclay or silt, will hold moisture well and is likely to be fertile,but will waterlog fairly easily (when it will hold little or noair). Sedges, rushes, and cattails enjoy such conditions.

Testing for pH A soil’s pH indicates its basic chemistry,whether it is acidic, alkaline, or neutral. Expressed on ascale from 1 to 14, 1 is extremely acidic, 14 very alkaline.The midpoint, 7, is neutral. A soil’s pH is importantbecause most plants have a preferred range. Some willgrow well only in acidic conditions, while others needalkaline soils, like chalk or limestone. Most grasses andbamboos are fine in soils around neutral, but somemoisture-lovers prefer acidic soils, and some grassesprefer alkaline conditions. Use a soil test kit ( below ) todetermine your garden’s pH and sample different areas—borders by walls are often more alkaline, for example.

Clay soil will roll into a ball.

Clay soil is made up of tiny particles, holds water well butcan waterlog, and tends to be high in plant nutrients.

Sandy soil has much larger particles, drains freely andholds much less water, and is often poor in nutrients.

Silty soil has larger particles than clay but can stillwaterlog, and is reasonably fertile.

Loamy soil has a balance of particle sizes and organicmatter, holds some water well, and is fertile—ideal!

grows in the wild, and it should do well,but give it the wrong soil, and it will failto thrive and may even die.


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Assessing your soil 41

Adding organic matter to improve sandy soilCompletely changing a soil’s texture and pH is impossible,but most soils can be improved and their worst featuresreduced. This may be necessary only in parts of thegarden. The best way to improve the moisture-holdingcapacity and nutrient content of sandy soil is to add plentyof bulky organic matter, such as garden compost,composted bark, or well-rotted manure. As well asholding moisture, the organic matter breaks down in thesoil, releasing nutrients and helping to stick the soilparticles together, improving its overall structure. Initially,dig the organic matter into the soil, but once an area hasbeen planted, you can subsequently apply it every year asa surface mulch.

Lightening heavy soil Heavy clay soils contain plentyof nutrients but often hold too much moisture, resultingin waterlogging in wet weather. Few plants relishpermanently wet feet, and grasses in particular can rot insuch conditions. To improve the drainage in clay soil, digin plenty of grit and/or sand. This helps to break up theclay, encouraging it to form a bet ter “crumb” structure,creating spaces, or pores, through which water can drainmore easily. Adding organic matter (using the samemethod as for sandy soil, above ) at the same time alsohelps to improve the physical structure of clay soil, whichfurther aids drainage.

Removing topsoil to impoverish rich soil Generally, gardening is about creating better, more fertilesoil, but in a few instances, the opposite is required.When establishing an annual or perennial meadow, witha mixture of grasses and wildflowers, the aim is to createconditions that favor the flowering plants over thegrasses. In rich soil, grasses grow so vigorously thatthey crowd out the wildflowers, which are better adaptedto growing in nutrient-poor soils. Scraping off the top4–6 in (10–15 cm) of topsoil and using it elsewhere in thegarden, then sowing a meadow mix onto the exposed,lower-nutrient subsoil, is an extremely effective way ofproducing a flower-rich annual or perennial meadow.


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42 Getting started

Choosing a planting style

The type of garden you create is downto personal taste. However, some sitesare better suited to particular styles than

others: prairie plantings, for example,do best on open, sunny sites, while boggardens need cool, damp conditions.

Meadow and prairie plantingBoth meadows and prairies mix grasses with herbaceousplants, but while prairies are natural communities,meadows are a creation of traditional farming practices.Both styles look natural and establish quite quickly.

Pros and cons Both styles are low-maintenance, easy toestablish, suitable for all garden sizes, and encouragewildlife. They are not suitable for shady or boggy ground.Annual meadows need resowing every spring and havelittle late-season interest; prairies peak in late summer.

Garden requirements Open, sunny sites with free-draining, relatively infertile soils suit prairies and meadows.

Prairies—large grasses• Calamagrostis x

acutiora cultivars• Cortaderia selloana• Miscanthus sinensis• Stipa gigantea

Meadows—smaller grasses• Agrostis species • Briza maxima, B. minor • Deschampsia cespitosa• Festuca species • Molinia caerulea

Suitable plants:

Sowing a meadow from seed is a cheap way of creating a prettygarden quickly. Large areas can look stunning.

Permanently moist areas are often seen as problematic, but withthe right plants they can be transformed into beautiful areas.

Bog, water, or shade plantingMany sedges and other grasslike plants, such as rushes,cattails, and horsetails thrive in wet conditions—some canbe grown in ponds. Few grasses or bamboos relish wetfeet, but many bamboos cope with dry shade.

Pros and cons Lush effects can be created in boggardens and by ponds, mixing sedges and grasslike plantswith other herbaceous moisture-lovers, but many growquickly and spread, and need cutting back periodically.

Garden requirements Moisture-loving plants arehappiest on heavy clay soils. Some plants will stand fullsun, but most prefer at least partial shade.

Bog and water gardens:• most sedges, especially

Carex and Uncinia• Equisetum (horsetails) • Juncus (rushes)• Phragmites (reeds)

Drier shade: • many bamboos,

especially Fargesia ,Indocalamus , andPleioblastus species

• Luzula (woodrushes)

Suitable plants:


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43Choosing a planting style

Contemporary, modern, or containersBamboos, grasses, and grasslike plants suit moderngardens extremely well, from sparse, minimalist designs tocontemporary “outdoor rooms,” where decking or a patiomay replace the traditional lawn. Containers can be usedin any style of garden, and many of the species featured inthis book look great and perform well in pots.

Pros and cons The clean lines of modern materials likemetal and glass complement the linear foliage and uprightlines of bamboos and grasses beautifully. The plantsalso suit containers well, particularly when grouped.Container-grown plants need regular watering and, ifpermanently planted, regular dividing and repotting.

Garden requirements Courtyards, town, and roofgardens suit these styles best, but almost any space can

be given a fresh edge with good landscaping. Withcontainers, you are not constrained by soil or garden type;there are pots and plants to suit all situations.

• many bamboos, e.g., Phyllostachys species

• most sedges, especially Carex and Uncinia

• Calamagrostis x acutiora cultivars

• Cortaderia selloana‘ Pumila’

• Elymus magellanica• Fargesia species• Festuca glauca• Pleioblastus species

Suitable plants:

Simple plantings using a restricted color palette and repeatedclumps of the same species create a contemporary feel.

There is a wealth of decorative grass species suitable for all typebeds and borders, and all sizes of gardens.

Adding to traditional bordersGardeners can be shy of using grasses in traditional mixedborders, but a few well-chosen grasses or a singlebamboo can add much to herbaceous plantings and bedsthat include shrubs. Their movement and shape provideattractive contrasts, and just as with prairie plantings, thecombination is not seen as odd at all. There is also a rangeof foliage colors to choose from.

Pros and cons Fascinating contrasts in color and shapecan be achieved by introducing grasses and bamboos totraditional gardens, but position them with care—don’tadd so many that the original style is lost. Repeating thesame species at intervals along a border can beparticularly successful.

Garden requirements Virtually any size and style of

garden, no matter how traditional, can be improved withthe addition of a few grasses, and arguably with theinclusion of an exotic-looking bamboo or two.

• many sedges, e.g., Carexelata ‘Aurea’ and Carexoshimensis ‘Evergold’

• Cortaderia selloana• Deschampsia cespitosa• Fargesia robusta

• Luzula sylvatica• Phalaris arundinacea

var. picta• Pleioblastus viridistriatus• Stipa gigantea• Thamnocalamus species

Suitable plants:


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44 Getting started

Planting out a container-grown grass

Most grasses are bought in containers,and are very easy to plant. The bestplanting times are spring, allowing the

grasses a full season to establish, or fall,when the soil is usually wet enough forroot growth before winter.


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45Planting out a container-grown grass

Place the plant centrally into the hole, and ll in with theexcavated soil around the edges, rming gently with yourngers. Some gardeners like to mix compost into theexcavated soil, but this is not absolutely necessary.

3

Dig a hole in the ground large enough to take thecontainer’s full depth. Place the potted plant in the hole toensure that the top of the potting mix is level with the soil.Water the grass well in its pot before planting.

1 Remove the plant from its pot and gently tease out theroots around the edges of the root ball. This encouragesthem to grow out into the surrounding soil.2

Using a watering can with a ne spray, gently water theplant. Watering ensures that soil particles are washed inclose contact with the roots. Keep the plant moist whilebecomes established.

4


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46 Getting started

Dividing grasses

Large grasses can often be divided atplanting-out time, yielding extra plantsfor free. Wait until late summer to divide

Miscanthus species and cultivars, though;they react badly to being divided earlier.

Tip for success

Leave the crown of newly splitgrasses slightly above the soilsurface to discourage thedevelopment of root rots.


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47Dividing grasses

Once the crown has been cut through, gently pry apartthe rest of the root ball with your hands—this actuallycauses less damage to the brous grass root system thancutting it.

3

Remove the plant from the pot and look at the naturallines of growth to see where the plant (hereLeymusarenarius ) is best sliced. Larger specimens may yield asmany as three or four divisions.

1 Using a saw or large serrated knife, cut through the crowof the plant along the identied division line. The crownusually not more than an inch or two deep, and dividingbecomes easier once you have sliced through it.

2

Plant out the divided pieces as you would container pla(see pp.44–45 ), spacing them at least 12 in (30 cm) aparand watering them well. Three or more clumps create aninstant effect.

4


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48 Getting started

Planting bamboo in a container

Bamboos can look extremely attractivegrowing in containers, adding an exoticAsian touch to patios or decking, and

providing a bold contrast to other plantsin pots. They are easy to care for as longas they are not allowed to dry out.


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49Planting bamboo in a container

Take the bamboo out of its pot. Loosen the root ball(a mix of roots and thicker rhizomes) to encourage theroots to grow into the soil. Cut off any rhizomes thatare too long to t easily into the pot.

3

Choose a container that complements the bamboo (glazedAsian-style pots look particularly good) and is largeenough to give the plant room to spread. Place plenty ofcrocks in the base of the pot to aid drainage.

1 Put some loam-based potting mix into the bottom of thecontainer and check that the surface of the root ball sits1¼−1½ in (3–4 cm) below the pot rim. (The bambooshown here isPleioblastus variegatus .)

2

Place the plant in the center and put potting mix around tedges, rming gently with the ngers. Make sure the roball is covered with ¾–1¼ in (2–3 cm) of soil, becausebamboos tend to “heave” upward in pots over time.

4


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50 Getting started

Planting a bare-root bamboo

Firm between stems to makesure the plant is steady. If anystems move too much, keepthem upright with short stakes.

Tip for success

Bamboo nurseries grow most of theirstock plants in the ground, and supplyplants by mail order when they are

dormant, with little or no soil. Plant outbare-root stock as shown here.


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51Planting a bare-root bamboo

Unwrap the bamboo and sit it on a layer of the soil andcompost mix, checking that the marks on the culmsshowing the previous soil level are at, or slightly below,the ground surface.

3

Wrap the bare-root plant in plastic to keep it moist anddon’t remove until the last possible moment; exposedroots dry out and die very quickly. Dig a hole deep enoughto accommodate the root ball.

1 Mix the excavated soil and the soil at the base of the howith a few generous handfuls of garden compost, pottinmix, or composted bark.2

Keeping the plant upright with one hand, add more of thcompost and soil mix, working it into every cranny. It iimportant not to leave any air holes, but take care not todamage the plant. Fill to ground level, rm, and water in

4


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52 Getting started

Sowing annual grasses

Annual grasses are often sown wherethey are to grow and ower, but the bestway of growing attractive annual species

like this Briza maxima is to sow seed inmodules each spring.

Keep any newly-sown trays insemi-shade while the seedlingsare germinating, then movethem into full sun.

Tip for success


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53Sowing annual grasses

Sprinkle a thin layer of vermiculite on top of each module.Vermiculite keeps the soil surface moist and protectsseeds from drying breezes, while still allowing lightthrough to encourage germination.

3

Fill a seed or module tray with a low-nutrient seed-starting mix to within ¼ in (0.5 cm) of the lip, and tap thetray gently to settle the soil. Top off if necessary.1

Carefully sow three or four seeds per module onto thesurface of the seed-starting mix. This quantity of seedsshould produce nice chunky little clumps of grass.2

Water the tray well with a ne spray, and keep the soilmoist. Depending on the grass species, germination matake a day or up to three weeks. Pot on or plant out whenthe seedlings are about 16 in (15 cm) high.

4


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54 Getting started

Sowing a meadow

Protect newly sown areas frombirds by stringing CDs on a line;they ash in the light, makingeffective “scarecrows.”

Tip for success

With a good-quality seed mix and not-too-rich, well-prepared soil, both annualand perennial meadows are remarkably

easy to establish. Very low-maintenance,they can be created on any scale.


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55Sowing a meadow

Once the area is sown, press it down gently with the backof a rake to ensure that the seed is in contact with thesoil. Be careful not to bury the new seed, because light isimportant for the germination of most meadow species.

3

Mix the meadow seed with sand to make it easier to applyevenly and show which areas have been sown. Whenchoosing a seed mixture, bear in mind that thosecontaining native species are of most value to wildlife.

1 Prepare the seedbed carefully; remove perennial weedsand rake the soil at to a ne crumbly texture. Usingcanes, mark out a grid to help you to distribute the seedevenly, and sow at the supplier’s recommended rate.

2

Grasses and wild owers should be growing vigorouslytwo to three weeks. Some annual mixes may be in full owin only six weeks. Perennial mixes are slower to establisome may take two years or more to reach their peak.

4


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56 Getting started

Planting an invasive aquatic plant

Choose a plastic or netting meshbasket that allows plenty ofroom for growth, but is not toolarge for the planting site.

Tip for success

Marginal plants such as Phragmites,Typha, and Equisetum can be invasive,so in small ponds and bog gardens it is

best to contain them in special baskets,which can be placed in the pond, or inpots that can be sunk into the soil.


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57Planting an invasive aquatic plant

Top off the basket with a mulch of gravel or small stones,which will help retain the soil. This is particularlyimportant if your pond contains sh because they areinclined to nose around in soil.

3

Half-ll the basket with ordinary garden soil or a specialaquatic mix. Remove the plant from its original pot andcheck that there is enough room for the plant and asurface mulch of gravel, approx ¾–1¼ in (2–3 cm) deep.

1 Place the plant centrally in the basket and ll around theroot ball with more soil or potting mix, rming gently amaking sure that the plant is upright. The plant shownhere is a horsetail, E quisetum hyemale var. afnis .

2

Lower the basket carefully into the pond, ensuring that isits below the water level. The existing vegetation in thipond needs thinning out and illustrates the vigor withwhich many water plants colonize open water.

4


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The beautiful planting combinationsin this chapter are easy to achieve,and the cultivation tips show youhow. You can also easily adapt therecipes to suit your own garden orplanting style. The symbols beloware used in the recipes to indicate

the conditions the plants prefer.

Key to plant symbols

Soil preferencef Well-drained soil

Mo ist soil

d We t soil

Preference for sun or shadeC Full sun

Pa rtial or dappled shade

a Full shade

Hardiness ratingsQ Fully hardy plants

P Plants that survive outside in mildregions or sheltered sites

* Plants that need protection from frostover winter

£ Tender plants that do not tolerate anydegree of frost

Plantingrecipes

e

B


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60 Planting recipes

Stipa calamagrostisqdeaB

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’qdea

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’qdea

Pennisetum alopecuroides qdea

Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’qeaB

Elymus magellanicusp / qdea

All-grass borderBorders composed entirely of grassesare very low-maintenance and suited toboth contemporary and more traditionalgardens. They rely for their effect on acombination of contrasts: height, plant

habit (upright or arching), leaf size andcolor, and ower shape and color.Chosen well, grass borders can be verycolorful, with a long season of interest,and their movement brings an extradimension to the garden. Here, theupright forms of Stipa calamagrostis andMiscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’ create thebackbone, with the arching owerheadsof M. sinensis ‘Morning Light’ inbetween. Clumps of smaller grassesmake up the foreground.

Border basicsSize 10 x 5 ft (3 x 1.5 m)Suits Most gardens, particularlycontemporarySoil Free-drainingSite Full sun to limited shade

Shopping list• 2 x Stipa calamagrostis • 1 x Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’• 1 x Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning

Light’• 2 x Pennisetum alopecuroides• 3 x Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’• 1 x Elymus magellanicus

Planting and aftercarePosition the taller species toward theback of the border, allowing at least18 in (45 cm) between them since theyall form substantial clumps. Place thesmaller grasses toward the front,grouping the three slow-growingHakonechloa about 8 in (20 cm) apart.Add a gravel mulch to reduce weedsand help conserve water. Water for therst year while the planting establishes.Although deciduous, these grasses canbe left to provide winter structure.


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61All-grass border


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62 Planting recipes

Stipa giganteaqda

Betula utilis var. jacquemontii qdeab

Aquilegia vulgaris var. stellata‘Ruby Port’ qdeab

Geranium phaeum ‘Album’qdeab

Foeniculum vulgareqdab

Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum’ qdab

Grasses in a contemporary borderSome grasses look beautiful in mixedborders alongside herbaceous plants.One of the best large grasses for sucha scheme is Spanish oat grass ( Stipa

gigantea ), with delicate, almost

transparent, long-lasting owerheads upto 6 ft (1.8 m) tall that hover above lushclumps of foliage around 3 ft (90 cm)high. In this simple but very effectivescheme, its owers form an airy screen,linking the canopy of birch trees ( Betula)to the lower planting of white geraniumsand red columbine ( Aquilegia ). Thefeathery foliage of fennel ( Foeniculum )echoes the grass owers.

Border basicsSize 10 x 5 ft (3 x 1.5 m)Suits Modern or cottage-garden borderSoil Most, except excessively wet or drySite Full sun to partial shade

Shopping list• 4 x Stipa gigantea• 2 x Betula utilis var. jacquemontii • 8 x Aquilegia vulgaris var. stellata

‘Ruby Port’• 4 x Geranium phaeum ‘Album’• 6 x Foeniculum vulgare or F. vulgare

‘Purpureum’

Planting and aftercarePlant the birch trees rst, at regularintervals, toward the back of the border,with a line of Stipa snaking betweenthem. Then add the geraniums towardthe front, with the fennel and columbinedotted randomly around the remainingunplanted area for a natural feel, as ifthey had self-seeded.

By midsummer, the columbines andgeraniums will cease owering and thefennel will be as tall as the Stipa. For amoodier look, replace the green fennelwith its purple-leaved cultivar F. vulgare ‘Purpureum’. This planting works equallywell in full sun or partial shade.

Alternative plant idea


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63Grasses in a contemporary border


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64 Planting recipes

Japanese inuences

Pleioblastus variegatusqdebC

Phyllostachys bambusoides‘Castillonii’ qdeab

Fargesia nitidaqdeab

Petasites japonicusqefbc

A Japanese-style garden represents anidealized form of nature, with a restfulatmosphere that changes relatively littlethrough the seasons. The emphasis ison foliage and the contrasts of different

leaf colors, sizes, and textures. Rocksand gravel are often prominent, withornamentation, such as a lantern,understated but very carefully placed.Here, the lantern in the background,surrounded by foliage, terminates theview and is the lynchpin of the wholecomposition without dominating it.Other suitable plants for a Japanese-stylegarden include sedges, ferns, hostas,and evergreen azaleas.

Border basicsSize 10 x 20 ft (3 x 6 m)Suits Asian-style gardensSoil Moist and fertileSite Partial shade

Shopping list• 1 x Pleioblastus variegatus• 1 x Phyllostachys bambusoides

‘Castillonii’• 2 x Fargesia nitida • 1 x Petasites japonicus

Planting and aftercareThe tall Phyllostachys is planted close tothe path to overhang it, while two ner-leaved Fargesia are beyond and to eitherside of the lantern, framing it with theirhanging foliage. The two other keyplants—large-leaved Petasites and shortPleioblastus variegatus —are staggeredon either side of the path. Together,these principal plants lead the eye fromleft, to right, left again, and right to restnally on the lantern.

Keep plants moist while establishing,and groom them regularly to removedead leaves. The Petasites and bamboosspread over time and need pruning tokeep them in check.


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66 Planting recipes

Bamboo grove

Thamnocalamus spathiorus qdeb

Pleioblastus viridistriatus qdebC

Phyllostachys violascensqdeab

Fargesia robustaqdeab

Where space is available to let bamboosgrow tall and spread sideways, youcan create an Asian-looking groveor forest. Planting several differentbamboos together allows subtle

contrasts between leaf size, plant shape,and stem (culm) color to come through.The Phyllostachys violascens , the largestspecies here, and Thamnocalamus aregrown primarily for their stem color,while Fargesia robusta is a good, denselyclumping, all-around bamboo.

Border basicsSize 15 x 15 ft (5 x 5 m)—but will spreadbeyond this if not managed

Suits Medium-sized to large, Asian-styleor woodland gardensSoil Free-draining to moist

Shopping list• 1 x Thamnocalamus spathiorus • 3 x Pleioblastus viridistriatus • 1 x Phyllostachys violascens • 1 x Fargesia robusta

Planting and aftercareFor immediate impact, buy largespecimens of these bamboos. Theycan still take a year or two to begingrowing strongly—this forest effect isnot achieved overnight.

Create a pathway with bark chipsor gravel, and plant the three largebamboos at least 6 ft (2 m) apart, to theback and on either side of the path, withthe smaller Pleioblastus spaced evenly in

front of them. The planting will looksparse to begin with, but to helpdisguise this, use temporary “ller”plants, such as grasses o r annualbedding, and remove them as thebamboos spread. Once established, theonly maintenance a bamboo groveshould require is periodic thinning ofold culms.


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67Bamboo grove


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68 Planting recipes

Arundo donax var. versicolor Pefab

Stipa giganteaqda

Achillea lipendulina ‘Gold Plate’ qdeab

Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii‘Goldsturm’ qdeab

Sedum spectabileqdeab

Calamagrostis brachytrichaqdeab

Large-scale prairie plantingThis popular style of low-maintenancegardening mimics the blend of largegrasses and herbaceous plants of NorthAmerican prairies and Russian steppes.It is particularly effective with large

plants that are given plenty of space.The backbone of this border is providedby grasses, including the variegatedgiant P rovençal reed ( Arundo donax var. versicolor ) and Stipa gigantea , butMiscanthus and Calamagrostis are justas suitable. Flower color comes from

Achillea, Sedum spectabile , and black-eyed Susan ( Rudbeckia). Like the grasses,these perennials ower late in the season.

Border basicsSize 15 x 10 ft (5 x 3 m)Suits Informal contemporary and wildlifegardensSoil Free-drainingSite Full sun, wherever possible

Shopping list• 1 x Arundo donax var. versicolor • 3 x Stipa gigantea • 3 x Achillea lipendulina ‘Gold Plate’• 7 x Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii

‘Goldsturm’• 2 x Sedum spectabile • 5 x Calamagrostis brachytricha

Planting and aftercareSet out the plants in their pots and tryto make their positioning look as randomas possible, ideally forming small groupsrather than dotting individuals around.Once established, prairie plantings areextremely drought-tolerant. Althoughmost of the plants are deciduous, theirowerheads and stems stand up well towinter weather and look attractive rimedwith frost, while their seedheads areappreciated by the local wildlife. Cutplants back to ground level in earlyspring, if not before, to give new growthroom to come through.


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69Large-scale prairie planting


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70 Planting recipes

Heleniumqdeab

Stipa tenuissimaqdeab

Anemanthele lessonianap / qdeab

Echinacea paradoxaqdeab

Achillea ‘Taygetea’qdeab

Echinacea purpureaqdeab

Small-scale prairie plantingThe grass backbone of this beautifulprairie planting is supplied by Stipatennuissima and Anemanthelelessoniana , both more compact, ne-leaved, and airy-owered choices than

Calamagrostis or Miscanthus cultivars.They are teamed with “classic” prairieperennials in a limited color palette:orange-red Helenium, yellow yarrow( Achillea), and pale orange coneower(Echinacea paradoxa )—E. purpurea would work equally well but wouldintroduce another color. The secret ofsuccess is to plant randomly so thegrasses and owers intermingle.

Border basicsSize 3 x 3 ft (1 x 1 m) or a large containerSuits Most styles of gardenSoil Free-drainingSite Full sun, ideally

Shopping list• 2 x orange-red Helenium • 2 x Stipa tenuissima • 1 x Anemanthele lessoniana • 2 x Echinacea paradoxa or E. purpurea• 1 x Achillea ‘Taygetea’

Planting and aftercareSet out the grasses rst, in their pots,then add the perennials, trying to makethe planting appear as random andnatural as possible, and grouping theplants quite closely together. Placethe taller plants toward the back,with the shorter ones near the front.

These plants do well in dry conditionsonce established, but if in a container,they will probably need watering at leastonce a week. Apart from deadheadingthe perennials to prolong their oweringdisplay, maintenance is minimal: cut backplants hard as they die off in fall, or leaveuntil spring so that you can enjoy theirskeletal structure over winter.



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71Small-scale prairie planting


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72 Planting recipes

Avena sativa (wild oat)qda

Centaurea cyanus (cornower)qda

Papaver rhoeas (common poppy)qda

Leucanthemum vulgare (ox-eye daisy)qda

Anthemis arvensis (corn chamomile) qda

Agrostemma githago (corn cockle)qda

Meadow plantingMixing smaller grasses with wildowers,whether annual or perennial, is anincreasingly popular form of low-maintenance gardening. Ornamentalmeadows essentially mimic traditional

hay meadows, most of which have beenlost through the intensication offarming methods. Meadow plants aregreat for attracting wildlife into thegarden, and the planting style is alsoextremely exible, working on any scale,from a large container to a whole eld.

Garden basicsSize Any sizeSuits Informal, contemporary, and

wildlife gardensSoil Free-draining and not too richSite Full sun

Shopping list (seeds)• Avena sativa or other annual grasses• Centaurea cyanus or Agrostemma

githago• Papaver rhoeas • Leucanthemum vulgare • Anthemis arvensis

Planting and aftercareThe easiest and most effective way ofestablishing both annual and perennialmeadows is to sow seed onto bare,prepared soil in spring. You can buycommercial seed mixes from specialistsuppliers, or blend your own fromowers and grasses that you like. Sowingthe seed directly gives the random mixof species found in hay meadows.

Sow the seed evenly and thinly. Takeout any obvious weeds, such as dock,nettle, and thistles, as they comethrough. Keep the germinating seedlingsmoist initially. After that, there is littleto do other than cutting plants down toground level in fall and composting thedead material. Annual grasses must bere-sown every spring.



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73Meadow planting


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74 Planting recipes

Summer gravel garden

Calamagrostis x acutiora ‘KarlFoerster’ qda

Miscanthus sinensisqdeaB

Stipa giganteaqda

Stipa tenuissimaqdeaB

Grasses, particularly large ones, can looksuperb planted in gravel, which showsoff their structure and habit extremelywell. For this scheme, use a mixture ofgrasses with contrasting sizes, shapes,

and owers. Here, Stipa gigantea ,S. tenuissima , and Calamagrostis are infull ower, with the Miscanthus plantedin the rear yet to come into ower.

Border basicsSize 12 x 10 ft (4 x 3 m)Suits Informal and contemporary gardensSoil Free-drainingSite Ideally, full sun

Shopping list• 1 x Calamagrostis x acutiora ‘Karl

Foerster’• 3 x Miscanthus sinensis • 1 x Stipa gigantea • 4 x Stipa tenuissima

Planting and aftercareBefore planting, lay a permeablelandscape fabric over the area to be

planted to help suppress weeds. Cutslits in a cross shape in the fabric whereyou want the grasses, then plant themthrough the holes. If you want the gravelto remain visible around the largergrasses, plant them at least 3 ft (90 cm)apart, but if you want a large block ofthe same cultivar, as here with theMiscanthus , position the plants moreclosely together. Spread gravel at least2–3 in (5–7 cm) deep over the fabric.Stipa tenuissima makes an excellentforeground plant, and although Stipa

gigantea is a large grass, it is so airy thatit also works well toward the front.

Gravel gardens are inherently low-maintenance so, once established, thisplanting will only need cutting once ayear in early spring.


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75Summer gravel garden


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76 Planting recipes

AstilbeqefdaB

Phormium ‘Bronze Baby’qdeaB

Uncinia rubraqeFBC

Festuca glaucaqdeaB

Woodsia polystichoidesqeB

Hosta ‘Patriot’qeaB

Foliage forms for small spacesThis delightful little grouping is equallysuited to a gap in decking, a largecontainer, or small raised bed, and relieson the juxtaposition of different leafshapes and colors for its effect.

Blue fescue ( Festuca glauca ) and NewZealand hook sedge ( Uncinia rubra )contrast with the small-leaved variegatedhosta and feathery owers of Astilbe .The hook sedge is echoed in the widerleaves of a red Phormium ‘Bronze Baby’(which will grow too large for theplanting in a couple of years and need tobe removed). Finally, the crinkly greenleaves of the fern contrast well withthose of all the other plants.

Bed basicsSize 3 x 2½ ft (90 x 45 cm)Suits Contemporary and informal gardens,or containersSoil Moist but free-drainingSite Sun or shade

Shopping list• 1 x pink-owered Astilbe• 1 x Phormium ‘Bronze Baby’• 1 x Uncinia rubra • 1 x Festuca glauca • 1 x Woodsia polystichoides • 3 x Hosta ‘Patriot’

Planting and aftercareThis scheme is one for small spaces, somake sure that you position the plantsclosely together. Put the central plantsin rst, then work outward, placing the

hostas and fern so that they lean slightlyout and spill over the edges of thedecking. Finish off with a mulch of barkchips. The hostas, fern, and hook sedgerelish moist soil, while the fescue andPhormium prefer drier conditions, sowater carefully, aiming for evenly moist,but never wet, soil. Trim back any plantas soon as it appears to be outgrowingits allotted space.


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77Foliage forms for small spaces


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78 Planting recipes

Striking combinations

Phyllostachys aureosulcataqdeaB

Anemanthele lessoniana P / qdeaB

Erigeron karvinskianusP / qdeaB

Pseudosasa japonicaqdeaB

This planting shows off perfectly thearchitectural qualities of a large bambooclump in a setting where space is notat a premium. The bamboo iscomplemented by the understated,

low-growing plants beneath it.Underplanting a substantial bambooclump helps to keep weeds down andgives it a foil, but choose companionscarefully because the ground at thebase is usually dry. Avoid strong foliageor ower colors and leave the emphasissquarely on the bamboo itself,particularly if you prune the lowestbranches to highlight the culms (stems),as here. Some of the culms in this

species are curiously crooked towardtheir base, adding extra interest.

Border basicsSize 10 x 5 ft (3 x 1.5 m)Suits Informal, woodland, andcontemporary gardens with spaceSoil Free-draining to moistSite Full sun to partial shade

Shopping list• 1 x Phyllostachys aureosulcata or

Pseudosasa japonica• 1 x Anemanthele lessoniana • 4 x Erigeron karvinskianus

Planting and aftercareA similar arrangement could be madewith any medium to tall bamboo species,in virtually any part of the garden wherethere is room. You could allow the clump

to spread freely in an open situation atthe edge of woodland, as here, forexample, or keep it in check with regularpruning. For immediate impact, purchasea fairly large bamboo. Plant it rst, withthe Anemanthele in front of it and theErigeron (a daisy from Mexico that canbe a little tender) spaced evenly aroundthe foreground. Prune off the lowestbranches of the bamboo, if desired.



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79Striking combinations


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80

Carex elata ‘Aurea’qeFBC

Planting recipes

Feather-topped screen

Cortaderia selloana ‘SunningdaleSilver’ qdea

Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’peaB

Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’qdeaB

This simple yet effective planting createsa screen of grasses and sedges, withlate-owering perennials in front, andwill ower from late summer rightthrough the fall.

Pampas grass ( Cortaderia selloana ) wasoverplanted in the 1970s and remainsunfashionable, which is a shamebecause, en masse , it can make awonderful hedge or screen.‘Sunningdale Silver’ is a variegatedselection with relatively compactowerheads. Its gray-green leaves andwhite owers contrast strongly with asubstantial clump of red d ahlias, whichare teamed with the at owerheads of

Sedum , and the sedge Carex elata ‘Aurea’ in the foreground.

Border basicsSize 10 x 6 ft (3 x 2 m)Suits Formal and informal gardens, as ascreen or divider between sectionsSoil Free-draining to moistSite Full sun to partial shade

Shopping list• 3 x Cortaderia selloana

‘Sunningdale Silver’• 3 x Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’• 2 x Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’• 2 x Carex elata ‘Aurea’

Planting and aftercareSpace the pampas grasses along theline of the screen or hedge, withapproximately 3 ft (1 m) between them,

or, for immediate cover, use more plantsand place them closer together.

Plant the dahlias in a group at least 2 ft(60 cm) in front of the pampas grass—ifyou garden in a cold area, lift the dahliasin fall and move them to a frost-freeplace over winter. Group the sedums andthe sedges together in the foreground.


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81Feather-topped screen


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83Bamboo camouage


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85Elegant summer show


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86 Planting recipes

Stipa giganteaqda

Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’qdaB

Persicaria microcephala ‘Red Dragon’qdeaB

Allium giganteumqdeaB

Astrantia ‘Hadspen Blood’qdeaB

Carex elata ‘Aurea’qeFBC

Artistic inspirationsIn this painterly composition, grassesand sedges add movement and textureto a herbaceous underplanting thatrepeats the same few plants.

Stipa gigantea is used here so thatits height is emphasized, but thetransparent nature of its owerheadsmeans it never dominates. Spherical

Allium owers also add vertical notes,while the yellow, strap-shaped leavesof golden sedge ( Carex elata ‘Aurea’)contrast with the leaf textures and colorsof Astrantia , purple-leaved Persicaria,and steely blue Perovskia.

Border basicsSize 12 x 12 ft (4 x 4 m)Suits Informal and contemporary gardensSoil Moist but free-drainingSite Full sun to part shade

Shopping list• 2 x Stipa gigantea • 3 x Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’• 2 x Persicaria microcephala ‘Red

Dragon’•

8–12 x Allium giganteum • 5 x Astrantia ‘Hadspen Blood’• 3 x Carex elata ‘Aurea’

Planting and aftercareThis scheme relies on closely packedplants for impact. Plant the Stipa rst,backed by the Perovskia, with thePersicaria in front of that. Group thesame plants together, but weave thegroupings through each other to create

a naturalistic feel, with the Carex and Astrantia toward the front.

The plants are so close together that youwill probably need to cut back the morevigorous species, such as the Perovskia and Persicaria. Extra water may berequired in dry periods. Deadheadingwill extend the owering period, and iswell worth the extra effort.


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87Artistic inspirations


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89Creative containers


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90 Planting recipes

Flower and grass pots

Stipa tenuissimaqdeaB

Verbena ‘Diamond Merci’£ deaB

Sutera cordata ‘Snowake’ (formerlyBacopa cordata ) £ deaB

Pennisetum villosumPdea

Combining grasses with tender annualsummer bedding plants produces veryinteresting and attractive displays, whichcan be varied from year to year.

In this understated but no less lovelycontainer planting, the feathery owersof Stipa tenuissima are a foil to burgundyred Verbena ‘Diamond Merci’ owers,while the small white owers of Suteracordata ‘Snowake’ provide a c ascadingforeground. Many other grasses aresuitable for use in mixed containers, suchas Pennisetum villosum or Deschampsia .

Container basicsSize Large pot at least 10 in (25 cm)in diameterSuits Cottage, contemporary, andinformal gardensSoil Multipurpose potting mixSite Full sun to partial shade

Shopping list• 1 x Stipa tenuissima or Pennisetum

villosum• 3 x Verbena ‘Diamond Merci’• 3 x Sutera cordata ‘Snowake’

Planting and aftercareThe perennial Stipa can be plantedpermanently in a large pot, with newannual partners added each year inearly summer, once all risk of frost haspassed. Plant the grass toward the backof the container, leaving plenty of spacein front and to the sides for the otherplants. Plant the Verbena in front of the

grass, leaving room for the Suteracordata to be tted in close to the edgeswhere they can trail over the sides.Fertilize and water the containerregularly during the summer months,and deadhead the Verbena plants tokeep them owering strongly. Removethe annuals after they die back in fall.



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92 Planting recipes

Tropical mix

Dicksonia antarcticaP / qeaB

Phyllostachys nigraqdeaB

Phormium tenax ‘Variegatum’qdeaB

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’qdea

The four substantial plants in thisgrouping are all fairly hardy yet look verytropical. This owerless compositionrelies on contrasts in plant form, foliagetextures, and coloring for effect.

The stout trunk of the tree fern(Dicksonia antarctica ) complementsthe upright Phormium and Miscanthus .The fern is topped by a contrasting,arching canopy of fronds, subtly echoedin the spreading shape of the bamboo(Phyllostachys nigra ).

Border basicsSize 12 x 10 ft (4 x 3 m)Suits Contemporary, subtropical, andinformal gardensSoil Moisture-retentiveSite Partial shade

Shopping list• 1 x Dicksonia antarctica • 1 x Phyllostachys nigra • 1 x Phormium tenax ‘Variegatum’• 1 x Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’

Planting and aftercareThese are large plants when mature,so space them widely apart. Plant theDicksonia at the back of the border,inclining it slightly outward, if desired.Plant the bamboo to the rear of theopposite corner of the border, at least6 ft (2 m) from the tree fern. Position thePhormium in front of the tree fern, andthe Miscanthus between the tree fernand the bamboo.

This is a relatively low-maintenanceplanting, although the tree fern needswatering in dry periods—water thecrown, where the fronds originate,not the base. Dicksonia is not reliablyhardy in very cold regions, so protectit in winter by wrapping the stem andcrown in eece or covering them withstraw held in place with chicken wire.


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94 Planting recipes

Phyllostachys bambusoides qdeaB

Phyllostachys nigra qdeaB

Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’qeFBC

Luzula niveaqdeBC

Luzula sylvaticaqdeBC

Fargesia murielaeqdeaB

Jungle effectsStatuesque bamboos are underplantedhere with shade-tolerant sedges andwoodrushes, giving this compositiona lush, jungly feel. This planting wouldlook great in a subtropical-style garden

with larger-leaved plants, but would alsoperform well in the corner of a citygarden shaded by buildings or large trees.

As they mature, the bamboos will knittogether, forming a screen. The sedgesand woodrushes will also grow to ll inthe gaps, giving continuous, weed-suppressing ground cover.

Border basicsSize 10 x 5 ft (3 x 1.5 m), against a wall orto create a divider within the gardenSuits Contemporary, subtropical, andAsian styles of gardensSoil Free-draining to moistSite Partial to quite deep shade

Shopping list• 1 x Phyllostachys bambusoides or

Fargesia murielae• 1 x Phyllostachys nigra• 3 x Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’• 2 x Luzula nivea• 3 x Luzula sylvatica

Planting and aftercarePlant the bamboos ( Phyllostachys) rst,toward the back of the border, at least3 ft (1 m) apart to give them room tospread. Place the woodrushes ( Luzula)to either side and group the variegatedsedges ( Carex ) in the center. These

plants also spread, so space them outevenly. When you are happy with thearrangement, go ahead and plant. Coverwith a mulch of chipped bark to keepweeds down. Bamboos and woodrushesare drought-tolerant once established,but the sedge may need watering duringdry periods. Woodrushes may spreadrapidly, so keep them in check.



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96 Planting recipes

Zantedeschia aethiopica ‘ Crowborough ’P / qeFab

Hosta sieboldiana qeaB

Equisetum hyemale var. afne qeFaB

Carex glaucaqeFaB

Petasites japonicusqeFaB

Houttuynia cordataqeFaB

Naturalistic bog gardenThis small-scale, green-leaved plantinglooks naturalistic and subtle around atiny pond or section of stream. The heart-shaped leaves of Houttuynia cordata areseen at the front of the planting as well

as in the background—repeating plantsin this way helps tie a scheme togethervisually. The amboyant variegatedHouttuynia cordata ‘Chameleon‘ is morewidely available, but it would havedominated here. Instead, the broadleaves of the plain species contrast wellwith the upright, narrow stems of thehorsetail ( Equisetum ), while the evenbroader leaves of the calla lily( Zantedeschia ), Hosta, and Petasites complete the picture.

Border basicsSize 6 x 6 ft (2 x 2 m), around pond or streamSuits Bog and water gardens, wildlifegardensSoil Moist to wetSite Full sun to part shade

Shopping list• 1 x Zantedeschia aethiopica

‘Crowborough’• 1 x Hosta sieboldiana • 1 x Equisetum hyemale var. afne • 1 x Carex glauca • 1 x Petasites japonicus • 3 x Houttuynia cordata

Planting and aftercareThe horsetail can be grown in the waterin aquatic planting baskets ( see pp.56– 57 ). Place the remaining plants towardthe water’s edge, the Petasites front left,one Houttuynia and the Carex frontright. Plant the other two Houttuynia ,the Zantedeschia (which could also begrown in water like the horsetail), andthe Hosta at the back.

Pond edges can dry out and pond waterlevels fall in hot weather, so keep bothtopped off with water.


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97Naturalistic bog garden


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98 Planting recipes

Deschampsia exuosa ‘Tatra Gold’ qeBC

Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’qeaB

Acer shirasawanum ‘Aureum’qeaB

Heuchera micrantha var. diversifolia‘Palace Purple’ qdeaB

Festuca glauca ‘Blaufuchs’qdeaB

Hosta ‘August Moon’qeaB

Modern pondside plantingUncompromisingly contemporary, thispond planting may not appeal toeveryone, but makes marvelous use offoliage colors and a mirrored screen tocreate a dark, somewhat brooding look.

The two yellow full-moon maples ( Acer shirasawanum ‘Aureum’), blocks ofrepeating hair grasses ( Deschampsia ),and the purple-leaved Heuchera formthe backbone of the composition. TheHeuchera and fescues ( Festuca glauca )pick up the blue tinges of the pebbleson the bed of the pond and its edging.

Border basicsSize 12 x 10 ft (4 x 3 m), around a pondSuits Contemporary gardensSoil Moisture-retentiveSite Full sun to part-shade

Shopping list• 4 x Deschampsia exuosa ‘Tatra Gold’• 6 x Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’• 2 x Acer shirasawanum ‘Aureum’• 4 x Heuchera micrantha var.

diversifolia ‘Palace Purple’•

3 x Festuca glauca ‘Blaufuchs’• 2 x Hosta ‘August Moon’

Planting and aftercarePlant the four Heuchera at the water’sedge toward the back, with the sixDeschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’ evenlyspaced behind them, and the yellow-leaved ‘Tatra Gold’ group around thecorner of the pond. The foreground isa medley of contrasting foliage, with

alternating plants of Acer and Hosta nearthe pond edge, and blue fescue grassesbehind and between them. Finish offwith a decorative mulch, such as glasschips or rounded pebbles.

Water the plants well while they becomeestablished and in dry spells, and topoff w ater in the pool. Cut back theDeschampsia in late fall.


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102 Caring for your plants

Caring for bamboos

Once established, mostbamboos and grasses arefairly drought-tolerant

and need watering onlyin very dry spells. Newlyplanted and establishingplants, however, shouldbe kept moist during theirrst summer.

Fertilizing with mulches Mulchesof organic matter, such as compost,

composted bark ( right ), or well-rottedmanure, conserve water in the soiland gradually release nutrients asthey break down. A 2–3-in (5–7-cm)layer of composted bark will fertilizea bamboo throughout the year.Dead bamboo leaves ( below ) are anexcellent mulch for bamboos becausethey provide plants with silica, whichthey need to form wood.


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103Caring for bamboos

Watering methods The simplest way of watering iswith a can ( below left ). This allows you to aim the waterat the plant’s root ball and not the foliage. It is better towater thoroughly once or twice a week than little andoften, which encourages roots to grow toward the surface

and makes plants more vulnerable during drought.Automated systems take the effort out of watering. Dripnozzles ( below center ) can be placed exactly wherethey’re needed, while drip hoses ( below right ) placed onthe soil surface under a mulch water most efficiently.

Drip nozzles are an effective irrigationmethod and can also be used in containers.

Drip hoses irrigate efciently and are goofor beds, borders, and boggy areas.

Fertilizing container-grown plants Container-grown plants have arestricted root run and limited soilfrom which plants can absorbnutrients, making fertilizing animportant aspect of maintenance.Give a regular liquid fertilizer whenwatering or sprinkle slow-releasefertilizer granules onto the surfaceof the potting mix. Alternatively,incorporate the granules with the mixwhen repotting the plant. Plants inpots also need watering morefrequently than those in the ground,whose roots can search deep belowthe surface for moisture.

Deliver water right to the base of the plantand soak the roots thoroughly.


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Caring for grasses

Grasses and grasslike plants are amongthe easiest of all garden plants to carefor, but low-maintenance is not no-

maintenance: a little regular attentionwill keep them looking their best.

Preventing excess seedlings Some grasses and grass-like plants, such as this Luzula nivea, disperse a lot ofviable seed, resulting in unwanted plants. To avoid this,simply remove any fading flowers with scissors or prunersbefore they start shedding seed.


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105Caring for grasses

Cutting out dead or diseased foliage Even the leavesof fully evergreen grasses and grasslike plants have afinite life span, and usually begin to die off from the tipsdownward. Trim off yellow or brown areas with scissors,or cut the whole leaf away at its base.

Identifying signs of stressHealthy grass leaves are usually flatand green all the way to the tips(near right ), indicating that the plantis growing well. During prolonged dryperiods, the leaves of many grassspecies roll up into tubes ( far right ),showing that the plant is stressed.This reaction actually helps tominimize moisture loss by reducingthe exposed surface area of theleaves, making them less vulnerableto the drying effects of the sun andwind. If conditions are wet,particularly after a rainy winter, and

the rolling is accompanied bybrowning or yellowing, it may be thatthe roots are too wet. In this case,move the plant to a drier position.

Healthy grass with at, green leaves. Stressed grass with leaves rolled into tu

Spring cleaning Older leaves may turn brown in winter.Affected leaves of small plants like some sedges, Acorus ,Luzula, and Ophiopogon can be removed individually, butwith larger plants like this Festuca , it is quicker to combthe clump with a spring-tined rake.


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Cutting back deciduous grasses

Where the dead stems of aclump-forming deciduous grasshave collapsed, remove themwith a spring-tined rake.

Tip for success

It is important to cut deciduous grassesback hard if you want to keep themlooking their best. You can do this either

in late fall or, if you want the grasses toprovide winter structure and interest inthe garden, in early spring.


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Cutting back deciduous grasses 107

The thick stems or sharp-edged leaves of largerMiscanthus , or theower stems ofCortaderia selloana (pampas grass), can be tootough for garden pruners (and the gardener’s bare skin). Protectyour hands by wearing gloves and use loppers for cut ting.

In late winter or early spring, the previous summer’sbrowned stems of large grasses, such asMiscanthus orStipa , should be cut back to near ground level withpruners. Try not to damage any new green shoots.

1 Work your way methodically through the clump, removall the old stems (which can be composted). Some grascan be divided once cut back, butMiscanthus is best splitwhen in active growth.

2

If you have a large number of grasses to get through, it will bequicker to use an electric hedge trimmer. Cut the stems at a slighhigher level than you would with pruners to avoid damaging anynew growth emerging at the base.

Alternative methods


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Pruning and tidying bamboos

Gardeners have a tendency to be afraidof pruning bamboos, but they shouldn’tbe. Most species respond really well to

being cut back, and it can, in fact,increase their vigor.

Thinning out an established clump Clumps ofbamboo benefit greatly from being thinned every oneto two years in early spring, before they begin shooting.Cut any dead (brown and leafless), thin, or weak culms(stems) down to ground level using sharp pruners.Removing a quarter to a third of the culms is usuallyenough but, if the bamboo is congested, don’t be afraid

to take out up to half of the clump, or even more ifnecessary, as is the case here. This opens up the clump,reinvigorating it and giving space for new culms to growwithin the clump rather than around its edges.

Retaining moisture All the dead brown culms havebeen removed from this neglected clump, leaving only thestrong green new growth. To aid moisture retention andfor a more decorative effect, apply a gravel mulch. Newculms will have no problem pushing through the gravel.

Reducing height Bamboo culms tend to get thicker andtaller as the plant matures. If a bamboo has grown tootall, shorten each culm to the desired height, cutting justabove a node with branches. If a bamboo is

bamboo and grasses

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