BALI

An International Living Australia report www.ilaustralia.com

ISLAND OF THE GODS

Bali: Island of the Gods

Author: Keith Hockton

Editor: Nazareen Heazle

Designer: Lorie Drozdenko

Cover photo: © Fotolia.com/Freesurf

© Copyright 2015. International Living Australia Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Ballytruckle, Waterford, Ireland. All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced by any means without the express written consent of the publisher. The information contained herein is obtained from sources believed to be reliable, but its accuracy cannot be guaranteed. Registered in Ireland No. 285214.

1Bali: Island of the Gods

Introduction

The mere mention of Bali evokes thoughts of paradise, but it’s more than just a place. There is a spiritual energy surrounding the island that you feel as soon as you step off the plane at Denpasar International Airport, and your mood

immediately changes. You relax, you sigh, and you know that you are in a good place.

You’ll notice offerings to their gods everywhere, and temple processions, where you’ll witness groups of elegantly dressed people walking by, bearing what appears to be skyscrapers of food balanced on their head. Traffic comes to a halt, and then they disappear just as quickly as they appeared.

And for less-spiritual seekers, this steamy Indonesian island also has wonderful surfing and diving, great resorts, and a nightlife that has become famous across Southeast Asia. The Rock Bar, Ku De Ta and Potato Head Beach Club are three of the best beach clubs in Asia, and are now synonymous with the essence of Bali.

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But there is more to Bali than temples and beach clubs…so much more. The island, nicknamed “island of the gods”, has a history dating back over 2,000 years. Balinese culture has been strongly influenced by Chinese, Indian and particularly Hindu culture, but also by the Europeans who arrived here as early as 1585. The Portuguese and Dutch left their mark by way of colonial buildings, and when tourists started to arrive in the 1930s it was only a matter of time before the rest of the world started to hear whispers of this fabled island.

Bali is the rock star of the 18,307 islands that make up Indonesia. Although Jakarta, Indonesia’s capital, is starting to attract more foreigners, and Jogjakarta, on the island of Java where the famous temples of Borobudur can be found, is popular, Bali looks set to retain its crown as the most popular island in the region for years to come.

About BaliWhere is it?Bali is an island and the smallest province of Indonesia. It is located at

the westernmost end of the Lesser Sunda Islands, with Java to the west and the island of Lombok to the east. The capital of Denpasar is at the southern part of the island. It’s also home to most of Indonesia’s Hindu population, and a large proportion adheres to Balinese Hinduism.

PopulationIndonesia’s population stands at 253 million, most of whom live on

the islands of Java and Sumatra. Bali’s population is a mere 4.2 million, of whom 84.5% are Balinese Hindu.

What’s the weather like?Bali is close to the equator and has a tropical, semi-humid

climate. The temperature averages 29.4° C, though it is cooler in the mountainous areas of Gunung Adeng and Bedugul. Varying from place to place, and from month to month, humidity can be between 55% and 75%. The arrival of the monsoons can bring heavy short downpours on the south coast of the island between late September and February. The rest of the year it’s dry and hot.

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Map of Indonesia

The languageBalinese and Indonesian are the most widely spoken languages in

Bali, and the vast majority of the Balinese speak both fluently. English is a common third language and is spoken by the majority of people in the southern tourist areas of Sanur, Nusa Dua, Kuta, Legian, Seminyak and Canggu.

Exchange rate: AU $1 = 10,650 rupiah (IDR).

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Where to live in Bali

Foreigners in Bali have traditionally stuck to the south, southwest and southeast of the island. Compared to the north of the island, it’s lush and green, it receives more rainfall, and there is good surf and lots of smaller islands to explore just

offshore.

Bali became a haven for surfers from Australia and the U.S. in the early 1960s, and they were the ones who put Bali back on the tourist map, which ultimately led it to becoming the tourist hotspot that it is today.

The north of Bali, by comparison, is dryer, less inhabited and more volcanic. This also makes it more attractive to the more adventurous travellers, but not for those seeking surf, great restaurants and stylish cafés. There are some great marine parks in the north, and good diving sites northwest of Lovina—a quiet costal town fringed by black-sand beaches—where the main activity is dolphin watching. It’s a good place to relax and forget about the rest of the world without the usual tourist hoards.

Southern Bali is split into districts and villages, and, as the island’s population has grown over the years, these districts and villages, which were originally independent entities, have merged into two very distinct geographical areas—southeast and southwest Bali.

The popular tourist enclaves of Kuta, Legian, Seminyak and Canggu, on the southwest of the island, are full of trendy cafés, five-star restaurants and super-stylish shopping boutiques. The upmarket enclaves of Nusa Dua and Jimbaran, in the southeast, are quieter, older and more exclusive. A little further east and inland, you’ll find Bali’s capital, Denpasar and, further east still, Bali’s oldest upscale resort area, Sanur. A mature

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beachside town with good restaurants, quiet cafés and white-sand beaches.

When looking at properties to buy anywhere in Indonesia, keep in mind that the prices are quoted in billions of IDR (rupiah), and when renting the prices are in the millions of IDR. Rental prices are quoted in yearly terms. Short-term rentals can be found but they are not the norm, unlike the rest of Asia where rental properties are quoted in monthly terms.

A good real estate resource for south Bali is http://raywhiteparadise.com/. Rates for quality condos and villas can drop below $1,399 per square metre ($130 per square foot) in the southwest (around eight kilometres from Denpasar central).

Sanur (southeast Bali)Sanur is Bali’s oldest upscale beach resort area. Despite the abundance of restaurants

and accommodation, it has a quiet and relaxed feel to it. It’s more expensive than Kuta

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Sanur has a relaxed atmosphere, despite being Bali’s oldest upscale beach resort.

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but cheaper than Seminyak and Canggu, and tends to appeal more to middle-aged and older families.

• A 50-square-metre condo on the fourth (top) floor, centrally situated within theresort, has commanding views of the swimming pool and garden. With generousnatural lighting in every area, it has one bedroom, one bathroom with separateshower, a spacious living area and kitchen, and a balcony. Shared facilities includea large pool, free Wi-Fi, room service, a bar, a café and onsite parking. Price:IDR1.9 billion ($178,330).

• A villa that consists of two bedrooms (each with its own ensuite), a good-sizedprivate swimming pool, landscaped gardens, and a living and dining area thatopens to the pool. It has a garage that can be used for storage, and Sanurbeach is a mere two-minute walk away. Communal features include a gym, a drycleaning and laundry service, a café, room service if and when needed, onsiteparking, and a 43-year lease, unusual for a house of this stature. Price: IDR2.5billion ($234,644).

• A beachfront, three-bedroom, four-bathroom, 307-square-metre villa. Includes agazebo in the garden. Within walking distance of shops, cafés and restaurants, italso includes a pool and garage. Price: DR4.8 billion ($450,517).

• Located in a prime position, opposite the Bali Hyatt, this 827-square-metre,contemporary, colonial-style villa and gardens is simply stunning. Four bedrooms,four bathrooms, two covered car spaces, a large pool, sculptured gardens andentertaining area complete the picture. It’s all within a short walk to the beach,shops and cafés. Price: IDR9.3 billion ($872,876).

Sanur rentals:• A traditional Balinese, three-bedroom, three-bathroom house in Sanur. It

includes a maid’s room and separate bathroom, two kitchens, a living room, a six-person dining table, a fully equipped kitchen and a washing machine. Centrallylocated in the restaurant area, it’s also within walking distance to the shoppingarea and traditional market, and is just five minutes to Sanur Beach. Rent:IDR175 million ($16,425) per year ($1,368 per month).

• A three-bedroom, three-bathroom, 595-square-metre family home, which hasrecently been renovated. It’s located in a prime location of Sanur, only a fewminutes to the beach, local shops and restaurants, 10 to 15 minutes to the

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international school, and 30 minutes to the airport. Other features include a large garden and a swimming pool. Rent: IDR260 million ($24,403) per year ($2,033 a month).

• A three-bedroom, three-bathroom property situated on Jalan Bumi Ayu. It’sjust a two-minute walk from Karang Beach and a five-minute walk to Hardy’ssupermarket in a perfectly located neighbourhood. Other features include a pool,breakfast patio, a modern, fully equipped kitchen, a sundeck and 297 squaremetres of garden. Rent: IDR300 million ($28,157) per year ($2,346 permonth).

Nusa Dua and Jimbaran (southeast Bali)

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Nusa Dua has long, white-sand beaches and is purpose-built for tourists.

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Nusa Dua is a purpose-built tourist enclave at the southeast tip of Bali. The beaches here are magnificent—white sand, deep, long and safe for swimming. This is also home to one of the best museums in Bali and certainly worth a visit.

• A four-bedroom, three-bathroom home with oceans views in Sawangan Beach.It’s only a five-minute drive to Bali Collection, the best shopping complex in thearea, or to five-star resort hotels such as the Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua BeachHotel & Spa, and Club Med. Price: IDR2.5 billion ($234,644).

• A two-story, 150-square-metre villa, with two bedrooms and three bathrooms,just 15 minutes from the airport and 10 minutes to Jimbaran Beach. It hasmodern, tropical-style architecture and comes partially furnished. Featuresinclude a pool, ocean views, a landscaped garden and a carport. Price: IDR2.9billion ($272,187).

• A lot of 929 square metres with sea views. It is perfect for a private villa and isset back about 65 metres from the main road, ensuring privacy. Electricity isalready installed, and residential zoning has been agreed. Price: IDR3.2 billion($300,344).

• A five-bedroom, five-bathroom, 595-square-metre villa located in a quietneighbourhood in the highlands of Nusa Dua. The top floor consists of a largemaster bedroom with a private bathroom, a comfortable family room, a secondbedroom, and two balconies front and back. The ground floor has a living room,three bedrooms and a large kitchen. Other features include an open swimmingpool and unlimited jungle views. Price: IDR3.7 billion ($347,273).

• A new three-bedroom, four-bathroom, 307-square-metre villa on 279 squaremetres of land in Taman Mubul. This property has three floors and is just a10-minute drive from all Nusa Dua beaches, and a 15-minute drive from theJimbaran and Pandawa beaches. The master bedroom has a huge exposed stonebathroom, a chill-out outdoor shower with bathtub, and direct access to the pool.There are also ocean views from the second and third floors, landscaped gardensand a double car space. Price: IDR5.4 billion ($506,831).

• If money is no object, this will pique your curiosity. This five-bedroom, five-bathroom, 2,601-square-metre, luxurious, Balinese-style villa is currently usedas a private residence but could easily be turned into a small hotel. With twoseparate swimming pools and an extensive garden, it is very easy to find yourown space and relax in true Bali style. There is also a large fishpond with Balinese

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stone statues that come with the property. Built in traditional open Balinese style, but with all the modern conveniences expected of a luxury, Western-style villa, this villa truly gives you the best of both worlds. Price: IDR18.5 billion ($1.7 million).

Nusa Dua and Jimbaran rentals:• Built in 2009 and upgraded in 2013 is a fully furnished villa with air

conditioning, pay TV and Wi-Fi. It also has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, anda large kitchen with an adjoining dining area and living room. Outside, there’s anopen 30-square-metre terrace overlooking a sculptured garden and pool. Otherfeatures include views of the mountains. Rent: IDR130 million ($12,349) ayear ($1,029 a month).

• A beautiful two-story, three-bedroom, three-bathroom, 223-square-metre home.All three bedrooms have en-suites. It has a spacious living and dining area, anda modern kitchen with a bar that overlooks a lovely swimming pool. Rent:IDR205 million ($19,474) a year ($1,623 a month).

• This private apartment consists of two spacious bedrooms and two bathrooms.The property comes fully furnished with a living room, dining room, kitchenand all high-quality appliances. Communal features include a large swimmingpool, tennis courts, a gym, a spa, a restaurant, direct access to the beach, and agolf membership. There’s also a plunge pool and five car spaces. Rent: IDR395million ($37,522) a year ($3,127 a month).

Kuta, Legian and Seminyak (Southwest Bali)

Kuta is the best-known tourist resort area in Bali and has a great surfing beach. That being said, due to its popularity with backpackers, it’s become somewhat of a playground for young overseas visitors, and is chaotic and overcrowded most of the time.

Just north of Kuta, the district of Legian offers the same easy access to bars and restaurants but has a slightly more relaxed feel to it. You don’t get the hustle of Kuta here, and its northern beach borders, near Seminyak, are quite stunning.

Seminyak, north of Legian, is more upmarket, with luxury accommodation and fashionable, high-end restaurants and bars. The atmosphere here is much more sophisticated and laidback than Kuta, and the beach in particular is quieter during the day.

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Seminyak is also the high-end spa and boutique shopping capital of Bali, and also home to two of the best beach clubs on the island, Ku De Ta and Potato Head.

• Sitting on a lot of 836 square metres is a two-bedroom, three-bathroom villa.Both bedrooms face the tropical garden and the L-shaped swimming pool. Thiseco-friendly house has hot water provided by solar panels, and all the facets in thehouse are fitted with filters. There’s also a carport, and the house is located just afive-minute walk from shops and cafés. Price: IDR2.1 billion ($199,486).

• A three-bedroom villa that sits on a spacious, 604-square-metre piece of land.All the rooms are well decorated and are suitable for family living. There’s alsothree bathrooms, a large, fully equipped kitchen, and spacious, open-plan livingand dining areas. Other features include a sundeck, a pool, and a tropical gardenfringed by mango trees. Price: IDR2.3 billion ($218,484).

• A four-bedroom, three-bathroom, 200-square-metre villa located only a10-minute walk to the shopping and restaurant areas of Seminyak and Batubelig.

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Kuta Beach is often very busy due its popularity with backpackers.

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This is where the best restaurants and beach clubs can be found. Other features include a beautiful pool, and views of Mount Agung and Mount Batukaru in the hinterland distance. Price: IDR3.3 billion ($313,478).

• A three-bedroom, three-bathroom villa, located in a quiet area in Jalan RayaPadonan, is within walking distance to shops, a short drive to Echo Beach, andjust 45 minutes to the airport. Facilities include a private swimming pool, anopen-plan dining and living room overlooking a paddy field, Wi-Fi and a garage.Price: IDR3.8 billion ($360,974).

• A charming villa in Canggu that is an ideal opportunity for a couple or smallfamily looking for a tropical escape, but who like to remain close to the centreof things. An easy connection to the airport and the Kuta/Seminyak area.The property has two bedrooms on the ground floor and one spacious masterbedroom on the second floor, all with en-suite bathrooms. Price: IDR4 billion($379,973).

• A beachfront, 5,017-square-metre, six-bedroom, seven-bathroom house, whichoffers a peaceful and idyllic atmosphere. It has wide, uninterrupted beach frontage,lush tropical gardens and its own private stables. Other features include an infinitypool overlooking the ocean, basement storage, two staff rooms, a rooftop viewplatform and a six-car garage. Price: IRD155 billion ($14.7 million).

Kuta, Legian, Seminyak and Canggu rentals:

• A five-bedroom, five-bathroom, 465-square-metre villa located close to BrawaBeach. Features include a tropical landscaped garden and a large pool. Rent:IDR170 million ($16,149) a year ($1,346 a month).

• Situated in a quiet gang (lane) in Kerobokan, and yet only a short walk to anumber of great restaurants and cafés, is a three-bedroom, three-bathroomhouse. There’s also two living rooms (one upstairs and one downstairs), and thedining and living rooms face the pool. Rent: IDR180 million ($17,099) a year($1,425 a month).

• A villa is located close to Nelayan Beach, Echo Beach, and The International

• A villa is located close to Nelayan Beach, Echo Beach, and the internationalschool. The trendy district of Seminyak is a short drive away. The villa has fourbedrooms, three bathrooms, and a furnished extra living room situated on thesecond floor. From each bedroom there is direct access to the large pool, which is

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situated in the middle of the villa. There’s also a garage. Rent: IDR300 million ($28,498) a year ($2,375 a month).

Bali: How to have the “Island of the Gods” to yourself

By Jason Gaspero

Towering volcanoes…world-class surfing…superb beaches…fiery Indian Ocean sunsets…Bali is a feast for the eyes. Add to its appeal cheap and tasty cuisine…a super-low cost-of-living…amazing nightlife…and locals whose friendliness borders on legendary…and you’ll find you’re hard pressed to point to a more alluring destination in Asia.

I’m not the first to notice. This Indonesian archipelago welcomed 3.7 million people in 2014. Point is, it can get crowded—especially in Kuta, the main resort town.

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Seminyak is the high end spa and boutique shopping capital of Bali.

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The trick is to get outside Kuta and explore the real Bali. There you stumble upon entire villages taking part in spectacular religious processions, marching down the street in traditional ceremonial dress…and shutting down traffic in the middle of the day. I snapped photos of a young Balinese child herding a gaggle of ducks alongside magnificent terraced rice paddies in the shadow of a 3,142-metre active volcano.

In this Bali you can sit with your legs dangling off the edge of a 46-metre cliff and marvel at the brave surfers below, taking on some of the world’s most challenging waves. While you do, though, you’ll want to keep an eye out for the mischievous, long-tailed macaque monkeys, who live by the hundreds on this island and make a game of stealing people’s stuff.

In this Bali, hauntingly beautiful gamelan music comes from the hundreds of small villages all over the island…the wonderfully-creative daily offerings to the gods you’ll see placed on the ground almost everywhere you look…the fascinating Balinese architecture in which every structure is considered “a living being”…and so much more.

I lived in Bali for a couple of years a decade ago now. On a recent trip back, I was struck by how much Kuta had changed…and, too, how wonderful the rest of the island remains. The trick is to explore. Here are my top nine recommendations, my guide to the Bali you’ll love….

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The local monkeys make a game of stealing people’s stuff.

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1. Cycling is a great way to see and experience the parts of the island thatmost tourist “vans” and “buses” skip altogether. Plus, it’s a great way toburn off a few calories, too. The best part? Many organised bike toursstart by taking you high up in the mountains via van, then dropping youoff with your bikes…giving you a mostly downhill trip past terraced ricepaddies, Hindu temples, local villages, and more. Bring your camera—you’ll need it!

2. Enjoy a sunset seafood dinner at Jimbaran Bay. This was (and still is)one of my favourite things about Bali. The sunsets at Jimbaran Bay arepostcard-perfect. The beach is lovely. And the fresh-grilled fish is out ofthis world. You choose which fresh-caught fish you want from an ice-box. They grill it for you on the spot for less than $12.40. Jimbaran Bayis easy to find on a map. Plus it can be reached easily by car, motorbikeor taxi. (Make sure the taxi driver uses the meter…and doesn’t give youa fixed price.) All the restaurants at Jimbaran are good, in my opinion.So simply choose one that appeals to you when you get there.

3. Watch the sunrise from the summit of the 3,142-metre GunungAgung. This has to be one of the most challenging endeavours I’veever undertaken. You start at about 1:30 a.m. in total darkness—witha flashlight mounted on your head. Then you’re in for three or fourhours of gruelling hiking…straight up. It’s not for the faint of heart. Butwatching the sunrise from the summit of Bali’s holiest mountain is aonce-in-a-lifetime experience.

4. Learn how to surf in Seminyak. You’ll find many surf schools in theadjacent beach towns of Kuta, Legian, and Seminyak. I was mostimpressed with the Rip Curl School of Surf in Seminyak. It offersbeginner lessons starting at $62 per lesson—and promises that “Youwill be surfing the beach break with ease and confidence.” (See:Ripcurlschoolofsurf.com).

5. Enjoy the kecak dance at Pura Luhur Ulu Watu. The views from PuraLuhur Ulu Watu, on the southern tip of Bali’s Bukit Peninsula, arenothing less than breathtaking. What’s more, for just $9.55 you can take

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in a performance of the traditional Balinese kecak dance…with massive cliffs, the sunset, and the Indian Ocean in the background. Bring your camera…and watch out for monkeys! One of those little buggers stole my favourite hat the last time I was there, and I had to use a big stick to get it back! You can reach Pura Luhur Ulu Watu by car, motorbike, taxi, or with a tour company. It’s only about 45 minutes from Seminyak, and one to one-and-a-half hours from Ubud, depending on traffic.

6. Take a few day trips to the island of Nusa Lembongan and the Gili Islands.This requires a minimum of planning, yet could be the highlight of yourtrip. These small islands offer the kind of laidback, funky beach vibe youmay think exists only in daydreams. For surfers, divers, writers, readers,photographers and beach bums, Nusa Lembongan and the Gili Islandsare as good as it gets.

7. Watch world-class surfers tackle massive waves at Ulu Watu. These wavesare the stuff of legend. You’re likely to see some big names in surfingcarving it up when conditions are right (April to September). Make yourway to Pantai Suluban to get the best views.

8. Shop for uniqueBalinese andIndonesian arts,crafts, textilesand furniturein Ubud. Ubudhas become ahaven for artists.So you’ll findno shortage ofshops here thatoffer Bali’s finesthandicrafts. It’sa great way tofind some one-

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Bali is full of unique and traditional arts and crafts.

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of-a-kind decorations for your home. Most of what you’ll find in Ubud is very inexpensive when compared to prices for similar products in the Western world. In fact, many expats have turned exporting Balinese arts, crafts, textiles, and furniture into a part-time or full-time business.

9. Rent a car or motorbike and make your own discoveries! And don’tworry if you get lost. You can always ask for directions. Almost everyonespeaks passable English. Just remember to wear a helmet if you’re on amotorbike (required by law), be careful (the traffic can get a little crazy),and bring your camera (Bali is a photographer’s dream).

Getting the most from BaliI’d recommend staying in Seminyak or Ubud…at least for your first trip.

Both are good home bases for exploring the island your first time there. Stay in Seminyak if you’re more into the beach scene, and Ubud if you’d prefer a cooler, “jungle” environment and more of an “artsy” scene.

Try not to spend too much time at your hotel, bungalow or home stay…no matter how nice it is. Bali is meant to be explored!

Pick up a copy of the Bali Advertiser—the local expat newspaper—as soon as you get there. It’s a great way to get a bird’s-eye view of what’s going on and what opportunities are available right now (for example, starting a new business, owning property, special events, meeting other expats and more). You can find it for free at many shops and restaurants throughout Kuta, Legian and Seminyak. (See: Baliadvertiser.biz).

And finally, learn Bahasa Indonesia—the national language of Indonesia. You won’t believe how easy it is! In fact, I guarantee that if you study it diligently for just an hour a day for two months, you will become semi-fluent…and that opens up for you a whole new level of experience and fun.

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Buying property in Bali is relatively easy, and it’s this ease that has sparked a property boom unseen anywhere else in Asia. That being said, there are rules and regulations that you have to follow, and if I was to give you one word of advice,

it would be to make sure you get a good lawyer. One whom you trust implicitly. All of the documentation will be in Indonesian, and you need someone you trust and someone fluent in Indonesian to walk you through the process.

There are a number of different types of title in Indonesia, but foreigners can only buy property leasehold. This is important because you will see property listed as freehold, and non-Indonesian citizens cannot own land in Indonesia.

However, a foreigner can acquire a leasehold title to a building, almost the same as a condominium regime except that the title lasts for 25 years with an extension of 30 years, for a maximum of 55 years, and then reverts to the original owner (lessor).

That being said, there are options for foreigners buying land:

1. Using a Nominee: The Nominee signs four documents with the foreigner in thefollowing order:

• A loan agreement, which acknowledges that the foreigner has lent to thenominee the purchase price of the land.

• A right of use agreement then allows the foreigner to use the land, and astatement letter, where the nominee acknowledges the foreigner’s loan andintention to own the land, follows.

• The nominee then signs an irrevocable power of attorney, giving the foreignercomplete authority to sell, mortgage, lease or otherwise deal in the land.

Buying property in Bali

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2. Using the PMA (Penanaman Modal Asing, or Foreign Direct InvestmentCompanies law). This allows foreign investors to set up a company, orcompanies in Indonesia, without the need of Indonesian partners, and this canbe 100% owned by the foreign investors. PMA companies are allowed to own thetitle of the property for a period of 25 years and, at the end of the first 25 years,the government renews it for you for an additional 25 years.

To set up a PMA, you are required to submit a detailed business plan, whichshows that you are capable of operating in a business environment; one that addsvalue to Indonesia in terms of foreign skills, employment and environmentalbenefit. Additionally, you will have to make an appropriate cash deposit in anIndonesian-based bank. The amount varies and is calculated from the capitalinvested in the business. Lastly, you have to show the property investment as anasset of the company.

The process takes approximately three to four months, and once it’s completedthe company can apply for work permits for the foreign directors—three permitsin the first year of operation. The cost of setting up the PMA is between IDR30million and IDR40 million ($2,850 to $3,800).

Real estate fees

Notary: 1% of the value of the transaction.

Vendor Tax and Purchaser Tax: Both the vendor and purchaser pay 5% tax on the value of land and property sales.

Mortgage Certificate: 1% of value of mortgage.

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The cost of living in Bali is cheap, and a couple can live comfortably on $1,860 a month. A budget of $4,960 or more will have you living very well. The average wage for a local Balinese is low (by Western standards), which means labour is

relatively cheap. If you combine that with the artistic streak that almost every Balinese man, woman and child seems to naturally harbour, renovating and decorating your property is an absolute joy.

Shopping in the local markets is fun, and the Balinese are extremely friendly and helpful. An entire bagful of fresh fruit, including bananas, apples, oranges, mangoes, devil fruit and rambutans, costs just $6.20.

A couple can eat well for less than $12.50. And if you eat at street stalls you can eat for a lot less than that. Chicken and rice meals, a favourite in Asia, cost as little as $1.25 a plate.

Cost of living in Bali

This is a typical monthly budget for a couple living on Bali:Rent $825Electricity $87Water $12Cell phone $12Gas (cooking) $2.50Internet $45Maid (four hours a week) $12Health insurance $50

Dining out/entertainment $248 (eating out five nights a week, alcohol not included)

Monthly total: $1,293.50

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Healthcare in Bali, although not up to the standards of the state-of-the-art clinics in some other countries, can be trusted to be of sound quality. Healthcare varies from small, specialised clinics to all-encompassing hospitals complete with ICUs

and emergency rooms. As is to be expected, the main public hospitals on the island, like the Sanglah Public Hospital, are located in the capital Denpasar.

If you feel more at ease getting treated in an international setting where all doctors and nurses speak English, Bali offers the International SOS Clinic and the BIMC Hospital, both located in Kuta. Both provide emergency treatment as well as regular doctor’s check-ups and visits. Due to the fact that these clinics are run by Australian, American and British doctors, they are more expensive than care at the local Indonesian hospitals and clinics.

Many expats in Bali end up going to so-called “group-practice medical clinics”, which are less expensive than private hospitals and often offer the same standard of care. These medical clinics are frequently run by a group of specialists who can take care of most routine medical checkups, as well as some emergency operations.

As Indonesia does not have any sort of national health insurance program, it is extremely important for expats to ensure that they have comprehensive medical insurance for themselves and all family members before entering the country. Allianz Worldwide Care provides a directory of doctors and hospitals in Bali whose services are covered through their insurance policies.

Healthcare

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Indonesia’s retirement visa (KITAS) is intended for those wishing to spend their retirement here. Requirements include:

• Applicant must be 55 years of age or older.

• Possess a passport or travel documents with more than 18 months’ remainingvalidity.

• Submit a full identification (copy of all passport pages), four passport photos, anda resume.

• Statement from a bank from the country of origin (or Indonesia) showing aminimum of $1,860 per month must be provided. This is the amount consideredacceptable to cover the applicant’s living expenses during their stay in Indonesia.

• Proof of medical/health insurance, life insurance, and third-party personal liabilityinsurance in your home country or Indonesia.

• A statement showing proof of living accommodation in Indonesia. Minimumcost of $43,400 if purchasing house or apartment, or the minimum rental cost of$620 per month in Jakarta, Bandung and Bali. It’s lower—$372 per month—forcities on the islands of Java and Batam, and also $370 per month in Medan. Youmust also be willing to hire a maid.

• Payment of an immigration fee based on effective regulations.

• A sponsor letter from an appointed travel agency, costs to be paid by applicant.

• A statement from the applicant agreeing not to engage in any business activitiesor to work for a living. You cannot work in Indonesia on this visa.

Visa and retirement options

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You may stay in Indonesia for one year on this visa, which is extendable.

Other visas:Tourist Visas: For many nationalities, tourist (and transit) visas are issued on arrival

at major airports and seaports in Indonesia. Tourist visas can last up to 30 days. They are usually not extendable and not convertible into other types of visas.

Business Visas: These visas are for people visiting Indonesia for normal business activities (including attending conferences and seminars), which do not involve taking up employment or receiving any payments whilst in Indonesia.

Employment visa: Locally known as KITAS, employment visas are for foreign nationals who want to work in Indonesia (for more information, see www.visabali.com/employment-visas.php).

Social/Cultural Visas: For more information, see www.visabali.com/social-visas.php.

The journalist and research visas are more difficult to get hold of. You have to contact the Media Services department at the Indonesian Ministry of Foreign Affairs, or the State Ministry of Research and Technology and the Directorate General of Immigration, respectively.