Back to School for a Day on Mandela Day School Makeover Activity Guide

17 - 21 July 2015 In 2015, we are encouraging corporate South Africa to go Back to School for a Day on Mandela Day

and make a difference in the physical environment of our young learners. Since inception of Back to

School for a Day in 2012, close on 100 companies and over 4 000 volunteers have taken part and

now it’s your turn! From painting to landscaping and planting vegetables and fruit trees to fixing

broken furniture and organising libraries; we encourage you to go Back to School with your staff and

make a difference in education.

The below document provides guidelines for activities that can be done on the school property. It highlights a few tips, as well as equipment needed in making your activity a success.

Gardening and landscape

Winter gardening tips

Planting a tree

Tools and materials you will need to plant a tree

How to plant a vegetable garden

Vegetable gardening tips

Tools and materials you will need to plant a vegetable garden

Directions for planting a successful vegetable garden

Clean-up/landscaping during the winter season

How to fix broken window panes

Tools and materials you will need to fix a broken window pane

Window repair tips

Broken doors

Tools and materials you will need to fix a broken doors

Painting a room

Tools and materials you will need to paint a room

Gardening and Landscape

July is the chilliest month of the winter season, therefore, only the bravest of the brave plants dare show their faces. Among the brave are indigenous and water-wise trees, citrus plants, and veggies such as cabbage, chard, leeks, onions, etc. Below are lists on tips, how-to directions, and tools needed that will make your gardening experience less worrisome. Winter Gardening Tips

1. Mulch flower beds with compost. 2. Clear paths of moss and lichen. There are products on the market that can help and also

with weeds in paving. 3. Treat timber benches, furniture, decks by sanding down and sealing with a preservative. 4. Check and repair fences, sheds and walls. 5. In very cold areas, bubble wrap is ideal to insulate pots and containers and even

greenhouses. 6. Clean and repair garden tools and invest in a new pair of gardening gloves. 7. Continue collecting fallen leaves for the leaf mould heap or to save in plastic bags, but leave

some cover for wildlife. 8. Tidy trees and shrubs by cutting out any dead, diseased or damaged wood. 9. If the weather allows, repair holes and bare patches in the lawn. 10. Move tender plants indoors or to the greenhouse. 11. Remove debris from containers regularly to prevent pests taking up residence. 12. Continue planting fruit trees and bushes as long as the soil is not too wet or frozen. 13. Prune established apple and pear trees to allow air to circulate in the centre branches and

sunlight to penetrate ensuring flowering and ultimately fruiting in the centre of the trees. 14. Harvest leeks, Brussels sprouts (from the bottom upwards), carrots, parsnips and cabbage.

Planting a Tree Some great indigenous and water-wise varieties include Wild Olive, Cape Ash, Sweet Thorn, Sagewood and Camphor Bush. All of these have attractive characteristics and are suited to our climate.

Dig your hole three to five times as wide as the container or root ball. The hole should be no deeper than the container. If you disturb the native soil below the root ball, the tree may settle and sink too low. The sides of the hole should not be smooth. Dig an ugly, ragged hole or even a square hole.

Use a pick or shovel to break up the vertical soil surface. This gives the roots a chance to grow into the native soil.

Carefully remove the tree from its container and place it in the hole. Large trees may require the aid of several helpers to avoid damaging the roots. If the roots have begun to circle inside the container, straighten them out from the root ball as you refill the hole.

Most times a newly planted tree will stand on its own. If necessary, drive a sturdy stake at the edge of the root ball.

Use an old nylon stocking to loop a loose figure eight around the tree and the stake.

Fill the hole with the removed soil, not peat moss, compost, or bagged soil. It’s best to get the tree immediately accustomed to the soil in which it will be growing. Otherwise the roots tend to stay in the amended soil and never grow into the surrounding native soil.

As you fill, compress the soil with your foot several times to prevent air pockets.

Use the extra soil to build a dam around the edge of the hole.

Water thoroughly and deeply.

A liquid root stimulator may be used, but is usually not necessary.

Cover the area inside the dam with 3-4 inches of organic mulch. In the absence of rain, a good soaking every two weeks is sufficient during the winter.

Tools and Materials You Will Need To Plant Trees

Knife Pick-axe Pruning shears Rakes Rubber boots. Shovels Spading fork Stakes and string Strong scissors

Tape measure Tarp Transplanting shovel Two-wheel dolly cart Water Wheelbarrow Wire clippers

How to Plant a Vegetable Garden Vegetable Gardening Tips

1. Make sure you pick a sunny part of your yard-avoid shady areas-as vegetables need plenty of sunshine to flourish.

2. When possible, make sure you have a readily available water supply near your garden site. 3. Raise your odds by creating raised vegetable beds-raising your beds brings plants up from

the surrounding ground soil, which can raise the temperature of the soil inside the raised bed by 8 to 12 degrees F. Another tip: make raised beds with brick, rock, or treated lumber.

4. Use compost as surface mulch so to improve the soil. Remember that mulch retains moisture in the soil and keeps the soil temperatures moderate.

5. Keep the cold out by blocking your plants from cold winds. Some ideas are: use wind breaks, walls, or install cold frames around your plants.

6. No need to overplant your garden. Start with small amounts so you can better regulate type and amount of plant that you use in a specific area. This will also help with alleviating soil erosion.

7. To prevent shading of your shorted vegetable crops, it’s important, when planting, to put shorter ones on the south end and taller ones one the north end.

Tools and Materials You Will Need to Plant a Vegetable Garden

Seeds-make sure they are viable, clean, and disease-free seeds. It is best to purchase seeds that are no more than 1 yr. old.

o Plants-some vegetables thrive when they start indoors and are transplanted outdoors. Look for healthy, stocky, medium-sized, disease-free, and insect-free plants with good roots. Avoid using plants that are tender, yellow, spindly, or too large. Do not use plants with spots on the leaves, brown lesions on the stems, or knots on the roots.

Hoe Spade Garden Rake Trowel Measuring Stick

Planting Line Fertilizers Insecticides: Fungicides: Mulching Material

Stakes Plant Protectors Pots

*Make sure to keep all tools clean and well sharpened.

Directions for Planting a Successful Vegetable Garden

When using seeds, follow these steps:

Make sure you use disease-free seeds

Choose existing location and clear all unwanted vegetation. Make sure the raised bed garden is no more than five feet wide.

Use stakes and string to outline the garden edges. Don’t include the border material in the four foot measurement, if you use wider

material such as bricks or stones that you can sit on while working in your garden.

When building the edges for your raised bed garden, use either bricks, wood, or decorative stones. Do not use pressure treated wood in your garden, as the chemicals can leach into

the soil and also to your vegetables! Use landscape fabric or a thick layer of newspapers to cover the ground in the

bottom of your garden-this will help keep weeds from growing up through your garden from below.

Fill your garden bed with garden soil mixture (a mixture that should include compost, vermiculite, peat moss, and fertilizer.) to about 3 inches below the top of your edging material.

Do not over-fill with soil, as you do not want water to run over the edges or off the top of your garden.

Rake and smooth the top of the soil.

TIP: Make sure to water the soil thoroughly before planting your raised bed vegetable garden.

If the soil settles a lot, add soil as needed being careful to leave the soil 2 to 3 inches below the top of your garden.

To complete, follow planting instructions on your seed packets. When Using Transplants, Follow these Steps:

If possible, plant on a cloudy day or during the evening.

Thoroughly water the transplant and soil in its container an hour before you intend on planting.

Carefully remove plants without disturbing the roots and make sure you keep the roots moist.

Dig a hole large enough so that the transplanted plant sets at the same depth that it was growing in the container.

Use starter solution (mixture of an all-soluble fertilizer, high in phosphorus, at the rate of approximately 1 tablespoon per gallon of water) to get plants off to a fast start. When you transplant, place about 1 cup of the solution around the roots of each plant.

Cover the roots with soil and firm the soil tightly around the plant.

Protect your plants from cold, heat, and wind by using plant protectors or hot caps. Don’t leave the protectors longer than necessary and when appropriate, remove protectors so plants can receive ventilation

Clean-Up/Landscaping During the Winter Season

Winter is marked by long dry and cold stretches that can be harsh to your plants or garden. By following these 5 easy steps, you will be able to keep your landscape healthy during the winter months.

1. Remove leaves and debris: a pile up of these will start to block sunlight from reaching the turf and prevent the nutrients from reaching the grass blades, making it harder for the turf to bounce back in the spring.

2. Mulch around shrubs and perennial: Proper mulching will serve two purposes: protection of perennials and ground covers from freeze damage; and trapping of moisture in and around the base of the plant allowing the plant to access the water longer. All in all, this will help prevent evaporation, which maximizes the water the plant receives.

3. Water turf areas: Winter watering of turf areas is one of the most important maintenance items to do during the winter months. Large portions of turf can die if they do not receive precipitation for several months. A few guidelines to keep in mind when watering your lawn in the winter are:

a. Only water when the air and ground temperature are above 4 degrees C. b. Water in the middle of the day to keep the water from freezing over the yard. c. Make sure to water twice a month.

4. Winter water trees and shrubs: Similar to your turf areas, your trees and shrubs need water in the winter to stay healthy. Trees should be deep root watered based upon the diameter of the trunk. For every inch in diameter the tree should receive 10 gallons of water per month. For example, a 4 inch diameter tree should receive 40 gallons. Shrubs that are smaller than 3 feet high should receive 5 gallons a month while 6 feet or higher shrubs need 18 gallons a month.

5. Aerate and FertiliSe: Compaction in soil will occur during the winter months; therefore, proper aeration will ensure air and nutrients down into the soil. Fertilize immediately after aeration to allow the fertilizer to sink deep into the soil providing nutrients it may be lacking all winter.

How to Fix Broken Window Panes Step 1: Start by first removing the broken glass. Use care on this phase of the job by wearing protective gloves, broken pieces of glass can be very dangerous. Step 2: Measure the frame for the new glass (making sure it’s smaller than the opening to allow for expansion and contraction so to allow for imperfections in frame or glass). Easy tip: measure both ways across opening, from inside edge to inside edge, and subtract 1/16 to 1/8 inch each way (have double-strength glass cut to these precise dimensions and make sure to purchase enough new glaziers' points or clips to be installed every 6 inches or so around the pane). Step 3: To seal the new window pane with glaziers’ compound all around the outside edge, roll another cord of glaziers’ compound, and press it firmly into the glass-frame joint, all around the pane. Use putty knife to smooth compound all along the joint around the pane, matching putty to other nearby windows. Hold putty knife at an angle to lip of frame, so knife cuts compound off cleanly and evenly along glass. If putty knife sticks or pulls at glaziers' compound, dip blade into linseed oil, and shake off excess. Use long, smooth strokes to keep joint even around pane. Step 4: With razor blade or glass scraper, carefully remove excess glaziers' compound from both sides of new glass and frame. Let compound dry for about three days. Step 5: Paint new compound and frame to match rest of frame. Lap paint slightly over edge of compound and onto glass to seal pane completely. Make sure paint is dry before you clean glass

Tools and Materials You Will Need to Fix a Broken Window Pane

Safety goggles Masking tape Hammer Heavy gloves Chisel or scraper Linseed oil Clean cloth Tape measure

Replacement glass Glaziers' points or spring clips Putty knife Glaziers' compound/putty Single-edge razor blade or glass

scraper paint and paintbrush

Window Repair Tips

1. In order to prevent a windowpane crack from spreading, score a small arc with a glass cutter just beyond the crack, curving around it (keeping in mind that a crack will travel only as far as the arc).

2. To soften hardened putty on the window frame, brush raw linseed oil over the putty. a. Avoid trying to remove large pieces of putty at once as you may split the wooden

frame, instead break into little pieces and remove. 3. To make the pane appear clear: fill a pellet gun hole

in a windowpane with clear nail polish or shellac dabbing at the hole and letting the application dry. Repeat the dabbing until the hole is filled.

How to Fix Broken Doors

Start by removing the original door. Do this by opening it and placing a wedge under the outer

corner, taking the weight off the hinges.

To remove the pin: tap it up, by using a hammer and a screwdriver, and pull it out completely. Make sure you start at the bottom hinges and repeat the procedure moving to upper hinges.

Tips:

Most doors are hung on loose-pin hinges where half the hinge is attached to the door and the other half to the door frame, with the two halves held together by a pin.

If not loose-pinned or hinges appear to be frozen in place, remove door by unscrewing the hinges directly from the door frame.

Set aside the door to be used as a pattern for trimming of the new one (unless it is badly damaged or warped).

Now remove the hinge leaves from the frame and the door.

Tips:

If you’d like to install new hinges, make sure the new hinges are the same size as the old ones.

To continue using the old hinges, simply brighten them with fine sandpaper and spray them with a clear protective coating-this will give them a “like-new” appearance.

Follow this by reinstalling the hinge leaves back onto the door frame, ensuring that the screws being used are long enough to go through the frame and grip well into the stud-wall framing.

Place the original door, if usable, on the new door, carefully aligning the top and side edges.

Tips:

You may need to cut down the new door slightly so make sure to mark the difference along the bottom of the old door.

If old door is usable, measure the door opening: allow a 1/8” clearance at the bottom (3/4” or more if the door opens over carpeting) and 1/16” at the top and sides and transfer dimensions to the new door.

Using a fine-toothed saw, trim the bottom of the door. If necessary and working from the corners towards the centre, use a block plane to dress the bottom edges.

Continue by using a jack plane to trim the edges as needed.

Tip:

To help prevent binding when the door is opened, bevel the latch edge of the door slightly inward.

Using the old door as a pattern, mark the location of the hinge mortises on the edge of the door. (Mortises are the carved or routed-out depressions that accept the hinge blades, leaving them flush with the surface.)

Tip:

For those not using the old door as a pattern, place the new door in the opening, wedging it 1/8” from the bottom and mark the hinge locations on the door.

Now set the door on its latch edge and mark a line across the door edge at each hinge location using a try square or combination square and a sharp pencil or knife. Follow this by using the hinge leaf as a template to outline the hinge on the door.

Next, score around the marked edges for the mortises using a sharp wood chisel.

Tip:

Make sure not to cut more deeply than the thickness of the hinge leaf.

While holding the chisel at an angle with its bevelled edge down, make several cuts inside the scored area to the proper depth for the mortise.

Clean out the mortise by cutting away the wood chips with the chisel; and place the hinge leaf in the mortise to check the fit, but leave unfastened.

Tip:

Interior and exterior doors are usually taller than 6’ and therefore require three hinges to properly distribute the weight. Naturally, the middle hinge should be halfway between the top and bottom ones.

To shut out moisture, be sure to coat all edges of the door with wood sealant.

With wood screws, attach the hinge leaves to the door.

With door in the frame, insert the top pin and then the bottom pin. If suitable, close the door and mark the location for where the middle hinge will go on the door frame.

Remove the door: bottom hinge pin first followed by the top.

Tip:

If there were only two hinges on the original door, use the hinge leaf as a middle hinge template and outline the location of the hinge on the door frame. However, if there were three hinges, your middle hinge should use the same door frame mortise as the old hinge. Continue by cutting the mortise on the frame as described in previous steps and attach the intermediate hinge leaf to the door frame.

To finish, set the door in place and insert the hinge pins: again, working from top to bottom.

Tools and Materials You Will Need To Fix Broken Doors

Replacement

Door Butt Hinges Wood Screws

(2" to 2-1/2") Screwdriver Hammer Wood Chisel Knife Try or

Combination Square

Fine-Toothed Saw

Block Plane Jack Plane Tape Measure

Electric Drill Sandpaper Wood Sealer

Resources for Painting a Room

This guideline will assist you in your volunteer project of painting interior rooms such as painting a: school administration centre; school feeding scheme; High School Library; and Primary School Library. We hope you find it helpful in the planning of your project.

1. Plan Your Approach: Get organised before the actual job begins. Most prep work can be done a day or more before you start painting. Move all furniture out of the room or out of your way. Large furnishings can be piled in the centre of the room and covered with drop cloths. You’ll work faster and make fewer mistakes if you don't have any obstructions to work around. Lay drop cloths to cover the floor. Designate one area in the room where you can gather the tools you’ll need and mix paint as you work. Always work from the top down when painting, which helps you to see and correct any drips or runs as you go. If you’re painting an entire room, first paint the ceiling, then the walls. It’s also usually better to paint large areas like walls before repainting the trim; because you’ll work more quickly when covering open areas, this can result in roller spatters, overspray and occasional errant brushstrokes.

2. Repair Damaged Surfaces: Scrape away old, flaking paint and lightly sand painted woodwork to “knock down” glossy surfaces and prepare them for new paint. Use a primer-sealer to cover high-gloss enamel paints before repainting. Fix any dents, chips, or cracks in the walls before you start painting. Patch small imperfections with speckling or drywall compound. For larger holes and cracks, cut away enough drywall or plaster to be able to create a patch.

3. Prep the Room: Remove all electrical switch and outlet covers, wall sconces, picture hangers and any other wall fixtures or attachments Keep track of outlet screws by taping them to the covers as you go. Use painters tape to

mask around windows and woodwork such as baseboard, ceiling mouldings and door frames. When you apply the tape, run a plastic tool over the edge to fasten it firmly and keep the paint from seeping underneath it. Paint only on clean, dry surfaces. Most paints sold today are lower in volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and less noxious than paints that once contained strong solvents and emitted dangerous fumes, but good ventilation in the work area is still important. While you work, open windows or run fans to provide a constant supply of fresh air, which will also help to dry the paint more rapidly.

4. Prep the Materials: When you purchase your paint, ask what type of brush and roller is right for your job. Rollers have different naps, or fibre lengths that correspond with different types of paint and desired finishes. In general, the rougher the surface, the longer the roller nap should be. Synthetic brushes and rollers are generally used with latex or water-based paint. Oil-base and alkyd paints usually call for natural or synthetic brushes and rollers. Your paint dealer will guide you to the right combination of tools and materials for your project. If your job requires several gallons of paint, avoid colour variations from can to can by opening all of the cans and mixing, or “boxing,” them together in a separate container. While you work, use a paint stick to mix the paint frequently, giving it a good stir from the bottom up to prevent the pigments from settling. To keep paint from building up in the paint can rim and spilling over the sides, use a hammer and nail to punch a small hole in the interior rim of the can, this will allow excess paint to drain back into the can.

5. Using a Brush: Brushes come in many shapes and sizes. Wall brushes are 3 to 4 inches wide and designed for large, flat expanses. Trim brushes have a 2- or 3-inch-wide straight edge and are a good choice for doors and window frames. Sash brushes have tips cut at an angle and are usually 1-1/2 inches wide, making them ideal for detailed areas and “cutting in”, a term that describes painting freehand around obstructions or along contrasting painted surfaces. Cutting in takes practice and a steady hand, but it is easy to learn with experience. Load a brush by dipping the bristles one-third of the way into the paint. Lightly pull the brush back against the inner edge of the paint can or bucket, using the edge to squeegee off the excess paint on the bristles’ surface. Try to make long, smooth brushstrokes to avoid streaks and brush marks.

6. Using a Paint Roller: When painting (especially ceilings), cover your hair with a scarf or baseball hat and wear protective eyewear to guard against spatters and drips. An extension pole screwed onto the paint roller handle will help you reach overhead areas. Use a 12-inch roller with a nap length that matches the type of paint and finish you want. Do not overload the roller with paint—fill the well of the roller tray and dip the roller in halfway, then roll it back onto the tray’s angled platform to remove excess paint. Apply paint first in an overlapping vertical “W” pattern, then re-roll this area horizontally, working in a space about 3 to 4 feet square. Refill the roller and begin your next application outside the painted area, rolling back into the wet paint as you work. Cover all areas of the wall and try to avoid missed spots. Don’t worry if the first coat looks thin, appears lighter than the colour you chose, or doesn’t completely hide the original paint. A second application is usually required to provide a uniform, finished coat that accurately matches the colour you purchased.

7. Paint the Trim: Once the walls are dry, remove the painter's tape from the trim. Peel it off slowly and evenly to make sure it doesn't pull up any paint. After the tape is removed from the trim, it's time to tape around the trim. Begin painting the trim closest to the ceiling and work your way down. Paint door and window frames before the baseboards. Use a 1-1/2" angled sash brush on narrow trim and a 2-1/2" flat brush on wide trim such as baseboards. Minimise your brush strokes and don't over work the paint. If a second coat of paint is required on the trim, make sure the first coat is completely dry before starting the second. Carefully remove the tape once the second coat is dry.

8. Clean Up: If you need to take a break during your project, wrap brushes and rollers with plastic wrap to keep

them wet and pliable for up to a day or more. When you’re ready to work again, simply unwrap them and resume painting. Paint rollers are inexpensive and disposable, but brushes are costly and worth saving, and they can be used many times if given proper care and cleaning. To make brush cleaning easier, drill a 1/4-inch hole just above the metal ferrule, then insert a wire or large nail into the hole. Suspend the brush over a jar or other container filled with enough water or paint solvent to cover the bristles. Let it soak for a while, then rinse and dry the bristles with a clean rag. Wrap the brush in plastic wrap or place the brush in its original package to keep the bristles straight.

Do you have the right painting tools?

Having the proper tools can ensure the best paint job possible. When it comes to completing an interior painting job, stocking a supply of tools designed for indoor painting makes preparation, painting and clean-up easier.

Drop cloths: drop cloths protect furniture and flooring from drips and spills. Options range from thin plastic drop sheets to heavier canvas cloths. Drop cloths drape over furniture, counters and cabinets. In a pinch, newspaper or cardboard can be used to protect floors and flat surfaces. Drop cloths or materials should be placed over furniture, floors or any other

surface needing protection before beginning the painting process.

Painter's tape: painter's tape protects trim and edges during painting. Because painter's tape is designed to be less tacky than masking tape or other tapes, it easily peels off the surface without damaging the finish beneath. Trims, window edges, patterns and so forth should be taped before painting starts.

Paint trays and paint rollers: paint trays and paint rollers often come packaged together. A metal or durable plastic tray is more stable and less prone to tipping than a thin or flimsy one. Steel rollers with plenty of tines provide a more durable and sturdy surface. Short napped rollers suit most interior surfaces such as walls and ceilings. Longer, napped rollers work well on textured surfaces. Depending on the surfaces to be painted, a smaller roller may come in handy for trim areas or hard-to-reach surfaces. New rollers should be rubbed down before use to remove any lint or fibres that could get into the paint.

Small brushes: a small brush helps with seams and corners or around edges. A 2-inch angled brush provides flexibility for reaching into areas where even a small roller cannot reach or for painting near taped edges or trim. Synthetic bristles provide an affordable but durable option for interior painting projects.

Wall scraper and wire brushes help remove old or peeling paint or wallpaper before preparing surfaces for new paint. For rough or damaged surfaces, applying putty to holes or scrapes and sanding the surface smooth produces a better finish.

Ladders and scaffolding help with ceilings and the top parts of walls by providing stable and safe surfaces to work from while painting.

Hammer and screwdriver for pulling nails or removing switch plates.

Coveralls, either disposable or washable, protect clothing and painter's kneepads provide cushioning when working close to the floor.