axial racing - yeti score trophy truck full option build

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Axial Racing - Yeti SCORE Trophy Truck Full Option Build www.axialracing.com /blog_posts/1073915176 Yeti SCORE Trophy Truck Full Option Build Words and photos by Tony Phalen Whenever I get a new vehicle, I like to take the first couple weeks to just drive it in box-stock form to learn about its traits; how it handles, any quirky nuances, etc. During this time I also take some time to review any hop ups that might become available, giving me an idea on how my long-term upgrade process is going to play out. Thankfully, the SCORE Trophy Truck shares the same platform as the Yeti Rock Racer, which means that there are a slew of performance goodies already available. Armed with a bag of aluminum bits, I decided it was time to install them prior to getting this rig all dirty. Not only did that make it a lot easier to deal with (read: no dirt!), it also looks much prettier in pictures. Time for an Axial Yeti SCORE Trophy Truck Full Option Build! Step 1

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Page 1: Axial Racing - Yeti SCORE Trophy Truck Full Option Build

Axial Racing - Yeti SCORE Trophy Truck Full OptionBuild

www.axialracing.com /blog_posts/1073915176

Yeti SCORE Trophy Truck Full Option Build

Words and photos by Tony Phalen

Whenever I get a new vehicle, I like to take the first couple weeks to just drive it in box-stock form to learnabout its traits; how it handles, any quirky nuances, etc. During this time I also take some time to reviewany hop ups that might become available, giving me an idea on how my long-term upgrade process isgoing to play out. Thankfully, the SCORE Trophy Truck shares the same platform as the Yeti Rock Racer,which means that there are a slew of performance goodies already available. Armed with a bag ofaluminum bits, I decided it was time to install them prior to getting this rig all dirty. Not only did that make ita lot easier to deal with (read: no dirt!), it also looks much prettier in pictures. Time for an Axial Yeti SCORETrophy Truck Full Option Build!

Step 1

Page 2: Axial Racing - Yeti SCORE Trophy Truck Full Option Build

Here are the parts I’ll be installing in this article. I’ve got quite a bit of work ahead; shocks, gears,machined parts and turnbuckles. A full list of the parts I installed is included at the bottom of this article.

Step 2

Since I’m going to need to remove the center transmission for upgrades, I disconnected the motor wiresfrom the ESC. Pay attention to how the wires connect; if you have a photographic memory, you’re good togo. If not (like me), you can mark them to keep things straight. I put one silver mark for the A wire, 2 for theB and 3 for the C.

Step 3

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I’m going to be working on the front end of the SCORE TT first. I started by removing the top deck supportbrace. It requires the removal of 10 screws in two different lengths so, to keep things organized, I put themback in the holes after removal.

Step 4

Once the top deck support brace has been lifted off, removal of the front clip is easy. There are 4 screwsunderneath the chassis and the two hinge pin screws. I also disconnected the fixed-length steeringturnbuckles as well – I’m replacing them with adjustable ones.

Step 5

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Separate the gearbox from the shock tower by removing the 4 screws holding them together. I’m onlyworking with the differential at this time so I set the rest of the front clip assembly aside. Note theorientation of the diff in the gearbox. You’ll want to make sure you re-install it the same way.

Step 6

Next, I removed the differential and bevel gear assemblies from the gearbox. I’m replacing them with theAX30395 Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set shown in the picture. One thing to notice is that the assemblies havestraight cut gears; this design is pretty strong and easy to machine. The new HD versions are helical cut,or machined with a slight angle in them. These are great for high-torque applications like crawlers or, in

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this case, hardcore trophy trucks! To replace, remove the 4 screws on the diff to release the gear, set thenew gear in place and re-install the 4 screws. If you’re the tinkering type, you might think about addingsome optional fluid to the diff prior to putting it back together (I did, 1000wt). The HD bevel gear is a one-piece unit so replacing the stock part is a simple pull-and-replace operation. One final step I performedwas to remove the rubber stops that are installed in each diff outdrive. If you hold the diff on its side, you’llsee them down inside there. These are used to keep the dogbones tight and prevent them from ejectingduring a hard crash, however they hinder the up and down suspension movement slightly. Since I’ll bereplacing the dogbones with universals, they’re not needed anymore.

Step 7

Next up was the AX31170 Machined Front Shock Tower and AX31169 Machined Body Post Mount . Theseparts are a direct bolt on and work the same as the stock parts, however as you can see there are a fewextra pieces. I’ll get to those in a bit.

Step 8

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I disassembled the front clip down to the front shock tower assembly. The only part I’ll be reusing from thisis the plastic body post.

Step 9

I attached the AX31169 Machined Body Post Mount to the AX31170 Machined Front Shock Tower . Sincethis is an aluminum-to-aluminum connection, I used a dab of threadlocker on the screws to make sure theydon’t loosen up. I slid the plastic body post into the mount and used the screws provided to secure.

Step 10

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I’m ditching the stock dogbone setup for a set of Axial’s AX31135 94mm Universal Axle Set . These comeas a pair, are pre-assembled and slide right into place.

Step 11

I re-assembled the front clip – the new shock tower to the gearbox and the front bumper to the tower. I leftthe shocks off for now since I was replacing them with a full set of Axial’s Icons. You can also see thealuminum upper shock mounts that are included with the aluminum shock tower.

Step 12

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For strength and additional tuning, I’m adding a full set of front adjustable turnbuckles (AX31249 YetiTurnbuckle Set). This kit includes an excellent build sheet, so assembly is very easy. Just build theturnbuckles to the appropriate lengths and you’re good to go. I would suggest keeping them separateduring the build so you don’t mix up the steering links with the camber links; the two are different.

Step 13

Before attaching the front clip back on the TT, I need to do a little work on the transmission. I pulled it fromthe TT and removed the gear cover, motor, plastic backing plate and plastic motor mount.

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Step 14

I installed Axial’s AX31156 Machined Adjustable Motor Mount , a 2-piece unit that includes the main mountthat attaches to the gearbox and a mount that attaches to the motor. The motor mount part swivels toadjust the gear mesh and uses an upper clamp to keep it securely in place. Because it’s aluminum, thissystem is SUPER strong and helps pull unwanted heat away from the motor. I re-attached the plasticbacking plate followed by the spur gear assembly (I used Axial’s AX31161 32P 64T Steel Spur Gear andAX31164 Machined Slipper Plates in place of the stock parts). These upgrades look awesome and shouldmake the gearbox virtually bulletproof. After I tightened everything up, I went ahead and re-installed thegearbox into the TT.

Step 15

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Time to get the front back together, so I started by sliding the front clip onto the chassis and securing withthe 4 screws from underneath as well as the two hinge pins. I made sure to key the center universal intothe outdrive located under the transmission. It’s a little tricky, so I would suggest rotating the transmissiongears (using the back tires) until you see the slots in the outdrive; this will make it easier to key theuniversal. Next, I slid the front axles through the steering blocks, attaching the wheel hexes to keep themin place. I installed the steering and camber links, making sure to key the axle bones into the outdrives. Alittle care has to be taken here to make sure the axle bones stay inside the outdrive.

Step 16

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Now that the front is back on and looking good, it was time to move on to the rear clip and the installationof a lot of performance parts. The first thing I needed to do is separate the rear clip from the rest of thechassis; front cage screws, rear cage screws and the 4-link mounts. If you did it right, this is what youshould be left with.

Step 17

My first plan of attack is the rear differential. To extract it, I needed to remove the diff cover, the straightaxle hub carriers and the axles (just pull them out slightly). I also removed the two plastic diff-captureplates that hold the diff in place. Note the orientation of the diff gear inside the housing.

Step 18

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Replacement of the diff gear and bevel gear is the same as the front. Once completed, re-assemble byinserting the diff gear, diff-capture plates and axles (key and slide back into place). I installed the optionalAX30789 AR60 OCP Aluminum Straight Axle Hub Carrier .

Step 19

To strengthen the rear end, I replaced the stock plastic 4-link mount with the AX31165 Machined 4-LinkMounts as well as added Axial’s AX31244 Upper Link Plate Set. Both are direct bolt ons; the Upper LinkPlate Set uses existing holes in the plastic links.

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Step 20

I also installed Axial’s AX31245 Lower Link Plate Set. These also bolt right on using existing holes in theplastic links. I would suggest installing and tightening the two end screws while leaving the centermost pairloose. They can be tightened up when you re-install the shocks and anti-roll bar.

Step 21

Here is the rear clip assembled with all of the aluminum parts installed. You can see I’ve also added theAX31166 Machined Shock Mount Plates , AX30830 AR60 OCP Machined Link Mounts and AX31167

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Machined Sway Bar Clamps. The Machined Sway Bar Clamps are a little hard to see, but I’ve addedsome additional pictures at the end that help show their install. When re-attaching the rear clip back to thechassis, add some threadlocker to the screws that secure the aluminum 4-link mounts. This will helpprevent the screws from backing out when you’re out having a good time.

Step 22

While I loved the look of the King shocks, I couldn’t pass up installing a full set of Axial’s Icons. Per theincluded instructions, I built a set of front and rears and installed them in place of the Kings. I have anadditional set of shocks to create a dual-shock setup, but I’m going to give it a whirl with the single shocksfirst. The dual-shock install (and tuning) will be for a later article. As you can see from the pictures, thealuminum parts look awesome and will provide additional strength as well as give the truck a bit more of a‘factory’ look. Time for me to get outside and get this thing dirty!

Here’s the list of parts used in this article.

AX30395 Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set – 38T/13T (x2)

AX30789 AR60 OCP Aluminum Straight Axle Hub Carrier

AX30829 AR60 OCP Machined Low-Profile Differential Cover

AX30830 AR60 OCP Machined Link Mount

AX31135 Universal Axle Set 94mm

AX30836 Aluminum Servo Horn 25T

AX31136 Icon 87-125mm Aluminum Shock Set

AX31156 Machined Adjustable Motor Mount

AX31161 Steel Spur Gear 32P 64T

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AX31164 Machined Slipper Plate

AX31165 Machined 4 Link Mounts

AX31166 Machined Shock Mount Plates

AX31167 Machined Sway Bar Clamp

AX31169 Machined Body Post Mount

AX31170 Machined Front Shock Tower

AX31172 Icon 67-90mm Aluminum Shock Set

AX31244 Upper Link Plate Set

AX31245 Lower Link Plate Set

AX31249 Yeti Turnbuckle Set