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Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness in the Post-MFA Era Paul Kamau, Dorothy McCormick, George Michuki & Carolyne Gatimu IDS, University of Nairobi University of Nairobi ISO 9001:2008 1 Certified http://www.uonbi.ac.ke Presentation for the UNU-WIDER Conference 25 th -26 th June 2013 Helsinki

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Page 1: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on

Competitiveness in the Post-MFA Era

Paul Kamau, Dorothy McCormick, George Michuki & Carolyne Gatimu

IDS, University of Nairobi

University of Nairobi ISO 9001:2008 1 Certified http://www.uonbi.ac.ke

Presentation for the UNU-WIDER Conference 25th -26th June 2013

Helsinki

Page 2: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

∗ Prospect for Export Diversification ∗ Labour Intensive (low skills) – Female workers dominance ∗ EPZ firms alone employed – 23,000 in 2010 ∗ EPZ – Foreign Direct Investments ∗ Foreign Exchange Earnings ∗ Policies: EPZ 1990, AGOA 2001, MFA Termination 2005

∗ Technological transfer for industrialization ∗ Experience of Asian Economies (labour intensive manufacturing)

Clothing Industry in Kenya

University of Nairobi ISO 9001:2008 2 Certified http://www.uonbi.ac.ke

Page 3: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Number of Enterprises

6 17 30 35 30 25 25 22 18 19 17

Employment (No.) 5,565 12,002 25,288 36,348 34,614 34,234 31,813 28,506 25,766 24,359 23,815

Investment (US$ million)

16 48 88 128 108 132 149 133 98 72 79

Exports (US$ million)

30 55 104 146 222 194 215 220 203 168 204

Quantity of exports (million pieces)

12.6 15.7 28.0 42.8 56.3 50.0 46.3 59.6 67.9 58.1 56.7

Imports (US$ million)

31 62 72 94 126 114 111 135 118 85 81

Annual average exchange rate (Kshs/US$)

76.2 78.6 78.7 75.9 79.3 75.6 69.4 62.7 77.7 75.8 78.8

Clothing Industry in Kenya

University of Nairobi ISO 9001:2008 3 Certified http://www.uonbi.ac.ke

Page 4: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

1. Dominance of knit garments (HS62) 2. US Market dominance 3. Competition from Chinese export

Kenya Export of Clothing

University of Nairobi ISO 9001:2008 4 Certified http://www.uonbi.ac.ke

$0

$50,000,000

$100,000,000

$150,000,000

$200,000,000

$250,000,000

2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010

VALU

E IN

US $

YEAR

Figure 2.3 - KENYA TRENDS

US HS61

US HS62

EU HS61

EU HS62

AFRICA HS61

AFRICA HS62

Page 5: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Post MFA Exports of Apparel (HS61 and HS62) to the World (US Millions)

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2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011

Valu

e in

US$

Year

Mauritius

Madagascar

Lesotho

Kenya

Swaziland

Ethiopia

Tanzania

Page 6: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

1. Post MFA Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA): set of international trade rules

that governed textile & clothing industry from 1974-2004 Allowed importing countries to impose quotas on clothing &

textile exporters Quotas generally favoured smaller exporters

2. Competitiveness in Post-MFA Ability to maintain level of clothing exports after MFA

expiration on 1 January 2005 3. Preferences (AGOA) not Enough Dependence on the US market (85% of all exports) Dominance of HS 62 (Knitted) vs. HS 61 (Woven)

6

Post-MFA Stabilisation

Page 7: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

∗ Employment opportunities high but low skills ∗ Most Kenyans in Helpers, Machine operators, and to

some extent – supervisors ∗ Labour is key for competitiveness (Raw materials) ∗ Technical and Managerial staff – Expatriate ∗ Low technical skills (training, technological transfer) ∗ Rise of China – Complementary & Competitive

effects ∗ What does this mean for competitiveness and

sustainability of the clothing industry?

Research Issue

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Page 8: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

1. Examine the structure and size of employment in the industry

2. Analyse the composition of technical workers

3. Assess the nature of training for clothing technical skills in Kenya

4. Suggest ways to enhance training of local technical skills in Kenya

Objectives

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Page 9: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

∗ Global Value Chain Analysis (GVC) – Gereffi et al (1994, 2001, 2005)

∗ How changes in industrial organizations affect the upgrading potential of firms, regions & countries

∗ Upgrading has connection to competitiveness ∗ Upgrading (product, functions & process) ∗ Governance – Buyer Driven value chain ∗ GVC is silent on skills & capability development for

competitiveness/upgrading - ∗ There is need for integration of labour issues in GVC

(Ramirez & Rainbird 2011)

Theoretical Framework

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Page 10: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Methodology

∗ Fieldwork ∗ Jan 2010 – April 2011

∗ Part of ACFRN Research

∗ Harmonized Questionnaire

∗ Case Studies

∗ UN COMTRADE ∗ Exporting firms

∗ Data Analysis – Descriptive statistics

Category of Firms

Target Contacted Completed Declined

EPZ Firms 16 16 12 4

Non EPZ (Exporting) 18 15 4 11

Total 34 31 16 15

Page 11: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

FINDINGS

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Page 12: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Firm Characteristics

∗ Location – Nairobi, Mombasa

∗ Age – mean 11 years – young, ∗ 2004 – 2008 only 1 firm established ∗ 2001 -2003 – 9 firms established

∗ Firm Size – mean 1218

∗ Female dominance mean 853 vs 365 (male) ∗ Low expatriate workers – mean 22 (technical staff) ∗ Low expenditure on training and not in production

Page 13: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Labour Productivity

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Average Productivity (2000-2010) is US$ 8,155

0.00

2000.00

4000.00

6000.00

8000.00

10000.00

12000.00

2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010

Labo

ur P

rodu

ctiv

ity (

US

$)

Years

Page 14: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Gender Analysis of Workers in Clothing Industry

Country

No. No. of

Employees

% Female Ethiopia 7 3,128 43.1 Kenya 16 19,629 68.7 Lesotho 19 21,791 69.2 Madagascar 18 19,569 70.3 Mauritius 20 16,096 50.0 Swaziland 6 4,537 84.6 Total 87 84,679 56.8

Mean work force is 1,222 in Kenya

Page 15: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Gender Analysis of Workers in Clothing Industry

Number of Workers Total

% Male % Female

Helpers 4,973 34.3 65.7 Operators 12,316 23.0 77.0 Supervisors 1,667 68.3 31.7 Technical 357 80.7 19.3 Administration 751 50.6 49.4 Management 245 78.0 22.0 Total 19,629 31.3 68.7

Helpers include those workers in Fabric checking, end of line checkers, packing, pressing and those who assist in moving garments from one operator to another – Assembly line

Page 16: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Expatriate Workers

Indicator Total Management

Technical Operators

No. of Firms 14 9 8 3 No. of Expatriates 348 60 262 26

Mean 22 4 16 2 Standard Deviation 23 3 20 5

Minimum 1 1 1 2

Maximum 80 8 72 20

Total – 348 Expatriate workers 85% of them are technical workers Management – 10% Machine Operations – 5 %

Page 17: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Expatriate Workers in ACFRN Countries

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Country Proportion of Expatriate in Technical Category

1 Ethiopia 4.9 % 2 Kenya 53.1% 3 Lesotho 83.2 % 4 Madagascar 61.5% 5 Swaziland 91.9 % 6 Mauritius N/A

Page 18: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Proportion of Technical Expatriate Workers

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Most of the expatriate workers are in technical skills category

Page 19: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Technical Expatriate Workers

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Page 20: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

PatternMaking

Sewing OtherProduction

SafetyRelated

HIV/AIDS Managerial

No.of fir

ms Kind of training

Training in the Industry

1. Low expenditure on Training in the industry 2. Training not in production activities 3. Training Levy by Government not used by the industry 4. Firms think it is the government to train for the industry

Page 21: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Training Curriculum

Universities 1. Textile Engineering 2. Fashion & Design

Polytechnics 1. Textile apprenticeships

Vocational Training (short courses) 1. Tailoring 2. Machine operations

Most university graduates do not work for the industry

Page 22: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Conclusion

1. Employment opportunities/potential in the sector is high 2. Female Dominance is critical for the poverty reduction

strategy – manufacturing sector – 68% 3. Low expatriate workforce (7%) dominance in technical

skills (53%) 4. Shortage of local technical workers 5. Sourcing locally trained skills is a challenge for clothing

firms 6. Firms expenditure on training is low – Training levy?? 7. Mismatch in Training – Universities, colleges, polytechnics

Page 23: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

Recommendations

1. Skills mismatch – Industry needs and training 2. Curriculum development and review 3. Partnerships among industry, training institutions and

government 4. Need to improve the use of training levy – for technical

skills development

Page 24: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

UNU-WIDER for funding our participation in the Conference International Development Research Centre (IDRC), Ottawa, Canada

for research funding and support Firms who responded to our many questions Ministries and associations who gave invaluable assistance and

information ACFRN members and other collaborators COMTRADE for international trade data

24

Acknowledgements

Page 25: Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its … · 2015. 11. 12. · Availability of Technical Skills in Kenya Clothing Industry and Its Implications on Competitiveness

University of Nairobi ISO 9001:2008 25 Certified http://www.uonbi.ac.ke

Thank you very much