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Autumn The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas Explore KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS Travel TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI Discover A WAKAYAMA SWORDSMITH PRESERVES A DYING ART Culture HIMEJI’S FIGHTING FESTIVAL RETURNS AUTUMN SEP–NOV 2019 No. 223 WHAT’S ON EAT & DRINK SIGHTSEEING MAPS Plus Inside… WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE Free

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Page 1: €¦ · Autumn The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas Explore KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS Travel TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI Discover

AutumnThe art of the katana,

uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see

fiery fall vistas

Explore

KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS

Travel

TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI

Discover

A WAKAYAMA SWORDSMITH PRESERVES A DYING ART

Culture

HIMEJI’S FIGHTING FESTIVAL RETURNS

AUTUMN SEP–NOV 2019

No. 223

WHAT’S ONEAT & DRINK

SIGHTSEEINGMAPS

PlusInside…

WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE

Free

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For Success in RUGBY Visit The Japanese Shinto Deity of VICTORY!

S hinto has been the indigenous faith for Japanese people since ancient times, preceding Buddhism. A Shinto shrine is a place of worship, with thoussands of

them all over Japan. Tarobo shrine in Higashi-omi is well known for its spiritual power and is believed to brings worshippers good luck, since it enshrines a deity of victory.

Many Japanese traditional cultures are deeply re-lated to Shinto. People pray to God for their family’s health, good harvest or safe travel, which sometimes involves a ritual ceremony, consisting of lighting fires, playing music or performing dances. This prayer culture has been deeply ingrained in local ar-eas. However, nowadays, even Japanese people rarely experience such a fantastic culture. That is why we prepared this tour to share the awe with you. Do you fancy a glimpse of Japanese religious culture? Are you visiting Japan from overseas? Don’t miss out on the chance to experience a unique local culture.

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There are numerous deities enshrined in various shrines up and down the country. Amongst them, the Tarobo Shrine in Higashi-omi city in Shiga prefecture, attracts a steady stream of worshippers, including sporting celebrities and sportsfans, and even Olympic medalists, all praying to realise their dreams.

The 2019 Rugby World Cup kicks off this autumn. Whether you are a fan or a player, this is the place you should visit!

THE HIGASHI-OMI REGION, 90 MINUTES FROM OSAKA, WAS DEVELOPED AS AN ESSENTIAL TRANSPORTATION HUB TO LINK THE WESTERN PART WITH THE EASTERN PART OF JAPAN IN ANCIENT TIMES. THIS REGION IS IMMERSED IN HISTORY, NATURE AND COLOURFUL TRADITIONAL CULTURE.

Absorb traditional Japanese beauty at the Omi Merchant’s ResidenceThe Omi merchants’ philosophy, “everybody doing well (e.g. seller, buyer and society)” has the same principle as “Sustainable Development Goals.” Many luxurious merchant houses represent the flourishing merchant’s culture and the simplicity and frugality of the ancient Japanese lifestyle. It brilliantly conveys both contrastive aspects of the good old times of Japan.

Enoy the stunning colour scheme of Nunobikiyaki PotteryThe Nunobikiyaki pottery is a modern version of Ryokusaitoki pottery (green coloured pottery) which was made during the Heian Period but was discontinued one thousand years ago. The Nunobikiyaki features beautiful colours which are created by a particular technique, “Shichisaitenmoku.”

Hitomi-SansoThe Hitomi-sanso is a traditional-style private lodging house and accommodates just one group per day. The building represents traditional Japanese architecture which features an old thatched roof and thick pine beams.

Hyakusai-ji TempleWe have prepared an exclusive tour to provide an authentic experience of Omi ’s tradition and culture, which is held in a drawing room of Hyakusai-ji, one of the oldest temples, built 1,400 years ago.

Special Experience Programme provided by Knowbyheart

A one day tour which provides you with a fantastic insight into this ancient culture with an exclusive service. The highlight of this programme is authentic worship. A prayer for victory is performed in the private hall, which is opened exclusively for you. Single worship allows only a pair of guests to attend. During the tour, you listen to an exciting talk made by a Shinto priest about the history of Japanese shrines and the Tarobo shrine itself. Moreover, Mt Akagami is famous for moon viewing. Notably, the autumn moon from September to November is incredible. An annual event called “Kangetsukai” is held to admire the moon and appreciate the good harvest of the year. The ancient soothing music and a magnificent moon will be a part of your unforgettable memory of your life (an extra charge is required).

ITINERARY1. Introduction to Mt Akagami2. Special prayer 3. Japanese cultural experience 4. Ancient Japanese court dance and music (optional)5. Omi beef dinner (optional)

Booking essential. For more details, please visit Knowbyheart.

OsakaOsaka

KyotoKyotoHigashi-omiHigashi-omi

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Discover Hiroshima’s Scenic Beauty in Akiota-cho

Breathtaking views, fabulous hiking, exciting snow sports and relaxing hot spring accommodation await

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Offers traditional outdoor hot spring baths overlooking Lake Ryuki in Hiroshima’s Akiota-cho. Relax in comfortable western style or Japanese tatami mat rooms and enjoy our award-winning French dining.

Address: 4692-7, Kake, Akiotacho, Yamgatagun, Hiroshima 731-3501, JapanTel: +81 (0)826-22-1200Access: 1 hour by car from Hiroshima IC

INI TANADA

Picture-perfect terraced paddy fi elds, offering stunning

photo opportunities year-round

OSORAKAN SNOW PARK

Japan’s southernmost ski resort, offering long runs for all

levels of skiers and snowboarders, as well as snow trekking

and igloo building

SANDANKYO GORGE

A stunning 13km river gorge, awarded 3 stars by the

French travel guide Blue Guide and selected as one of the top

100 scenic beauty spots in Japan

YOICHI SHIDAREZAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOM

A stunning 12m tall weeping cherry sitting atop a small

hillock is lit up during its brief, but spectacular spring bloom

RESERVATIONS

www.nukui-sp.com

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CONTENTS

08

Fall-leaf CampingRANDY POEHLMANSerene spots to pitch a tent and take in autumn views.

10

Treasures of Tamba SasayamaOpt out of the crowds and rejuvenate in the Hyogo countryside.

14

Life of a SwordsmithA 33-year-old Hashimoto man devotes his life to swordmaking.

20

Kansai Performing ArtsARIA AOYAMAThe Noh connection with the autumn season.

22

Discover IbarakiLOUISE GEORGE KITTAKAExplore the mountains, gorges, and seascapes of northern Ibaraki.

30

Nagano’s Salty SecretsThe mysterious saltwater springs of Oshika-mura.

KANSAI FINDER

32Events & Festivals

36Sights & Attractions

38Art & Exhibitions

40Live Music

42Clubs & Nightlife

44Food & Drink

48Getting Around / Maps

14

9

Wh

at’s On

Gu

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10

AutumnSep/Oct /Nov

AND MUCH MORE…

CHECK OUT KANSAISCENE.COM FOR MORE FEATURES AND KANSAI TRAVEL INFO

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Features

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This autumn, we take you on a tour of one of Kansai’s rural gems—the historical district of

Tamba Sasayama (p 10). An old pocket of Japan well-known for its pottery, a younger genera-tion of budding entrepreneurs is bringing a new energy to the region opening small businesses like brewpubs, cafes, cycle shops, and more. We also catch up with a young swordsmith in Katsuragi, Wakayama who is on a mission to continue the traditional Japa-nese art of katana forging (p 14). Traveling north to catch some leafy views, our writer Louise George Kittaka shows us around the lesser-explored region of

Northern Ibaraki, which boasts some spectacular autumn scenery (p 22). And if you’re up for a lo-cal outdoor adventure this fall, check out our Kansai camping recommendations for some top spots to take in the red and gold vistas (p 08). There’s plenty of action on the festivals front this season including Hyogo’s famed fighting festival which returns to Matsubara Hachiman Shrine this October 14th and 15th (p 09). Stay up-to-date with a full list of Kansai events and festivals on the Kansai Finder page of our website. And for reminders of what’s happen-ing in the region every week, sign up for our weekly e-newsletters at kansaiscene.com.

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

CELIA POLKINGHORNE

[email protected]

ABOUT KANSAI SCENE

KANSAI SCENE PROVIDES ENGLISH-LANGUAGE ARTICLES, INFORMATION AND LISTINGS FOR VISITORS AND RESIDENTS OF THE KANSAI AREA.

KANSAI SCENE IS PUBLISHED BY MOJOWORKS KK, WITH SUPPORT FROM CB, LTD.

Publisher ...............................Daniel LeeManaging Editor ......Celia PolkinghorneEditor ................................ Jason HaidarArt Director............................Daniel LeeProduction .......................Mojoworks KK

Listings ContributorsArt ...................................Brooke LarsenEvents .................................Tomoko IshiiLive Music ...................... Phillip JacksonClub ................................. Saiko Fujiwara

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CB, LtdEmail ............... [email protected]. ....................................03-6260-9125

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General ...... [email protected] ......... [email protected]. ....................................06-6539-1717 Fax. ...................................06-7635-4791Address ................. Osaka-shi, Nishi-ku, .....................................Shinmachi 3-5-7, ............................................Eiko Bldg. 2F..........................................Mojoworks KKWebsite .......................kansaiscene.com

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If you would like to write for KS, please contact [email protected] after reviewing our writers’ guidelines: kansaiscene.com/write-for-us

DISCLAIMER

Opinions expressed herein are not necessarily endorsed by the publisher. We take no responsibility for the quality or content of advertisements. Public and private parties approached by those claiming to work for or on behalf of Kansai Scene should call this office to confirm the truth of any such claim, especially where money may be involved.

AUTUMN ARCHERY DISPLAY

NOV 30 AT KAMO SHRINE IN OMIHACHIMAN, SHIGA

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DISCOVER

Kansai Fall CampingSee the best of the autumn leaves without

joining the masses.

TEXT: RANDY POEHLMAN

KYUKAMURA OMIHACHIMAN, SHIGA

This campground is located on the shores of Lake Biwa. The hotel and campground complex features a swimming pool, beach, kayaking, and wide-open spaces with beautiful lake views. There are also restaurants available in the Kyukamura village hotels. The nearest train station is Omi-Hachiman but public transportation access to the village is via shuttle bus.ACCESS: Shuttle bus from JR Omihachiman Stn • TEL: 0748-32-3138 • qkamura.or.jp/ohmi/camp

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If you’re eager to see nature’s blazing

autumn show but less thrilled about lining up with the crowds, consider an autumn

camping trip to one of these picture-perfect

Kansai locations.

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com8

KASAGI, KYOTO

Kasagi Campground in Kyoto Prefecture is known for its accessible location and serene riverside setting. The camp is located next to Kasagi-ohashi Bridge which runs over the Kizugawa River. Kasagi is also known for its direct public transportation access, just a five-minute walk from JR Kasagi Station. The campsites can be rocky, so if you are planning on sleeping in a tent, a groundsheet and a sleeping mat are recommended. There are washroom facilities and a nearby onsen.ACCESS: JR Kasagi Stn • TEL: 0743-95-2011 • kasagi.kyoto-fsci.or.jp

MORI-NO-TERRACE, OSAKA

Located in North Osaka near Nose; this campground has a variety of options from traditional camping to the modern “glamping” for those who prefer to camp with a little more comfort. The location is along highway 173 and is next to the Yamabe River. Nose Onsen is also close by providing campers with an extra bit of luxury.ACCESS: by car • TEL: 090-8863-6974 • mori-no-terrace.com

SHIAWASE-NO-MURA, HYOGO

This campground is situated in a large park in Kobe and is ideal for campers with families as there is a lot of kids’ playground equipment in the park. The well-maintained bathrooms and nearby onsen and supermarket make camping life easy. It is located a few kilometers from Nishisuzurandai Station.ACCESS: Shinsetsu line, Nishisuzurandai Stn • TEL: 078-743-8000 • shiawasenomura.org

KUMANO KODO, WAKAYAMA

For more experienced campers who like to do multi-day hikes and treks with their tent and gear on their backs, the iconic Kumano-Kodo pilgrimage routes on the Kii Peninsula are sure to delight with the autumn foliage. There are various campgrounds along the routes and many wild camp spots to be found. The trails are popular and common trailheads include Kii-Tanabe, Koyasan, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hongu Taisha.ACCESS: JR Kiitanabe Stn; Nankai Koyasan Stn; JR Kiikatsuura Stn; or by car

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WHAT’S ON

WHEN THE GODS CLASH Japan’s most epic fighting festival returns to Himeji.

TEXT: KS

At Hyogo’s most action-packed festival—the Nada no Kenka Matsuri (Fighting Festival)—spectators revel in watching

groups of revved-up men hoist palan-quins onto their shoulders and crash them ferociously against one another. The aim is to topple opposing palanquins and be the last one standing.

Held every year on the 14th and 15th of October at Matsubara Hachiman Shrine in the suburb of Shirahama, Himeji City, this two-day event is the largest of Japan’s fighting festivals, at-tracting over 100,000 visitors each year. The exact origins of this event have be-come somewhat lost to history, but one theory is that the crashing of the floats and palanquins mimics a great sea bat-tle derived from the legend of Empress Jingu’s (169–269) military expedition to Korea. Regardless of the genesis of this Shinto festival, the significance is that the winners are blessed with a bounti-ful harvest, good fortune, and of course, bragging rights.

Men from the seven villages of Kiba, Matsubara, Nakamura, Mega, Usazaki, Higashiyama, and Yaka compete for this honor, dressed in only a fundoshi (loincloth), jika-tabi (split toe boots), and a colored hachimaki (headband) designat-ing their local allegiance. The main part of the festival where the shrine-crashing action takes place is on the 15th—the

second of the two days. On the 14th, Shinto purification rituals are performed in preparation for the following day.

The climax of the festival in the afternoon on the 15th is known as yatai-awase, where the incredibly ornate two-ton yatai balanced on the shoulders of hoards of men collide at full tilt. This is when the pandemonium truly begins and it takes place at Otabiyama—a hilltop area with a large outdoor arena setup. The chaos carries on until sun-down when the yatai are carried all the way to the top of Otabiyama. There, they are illuminated by hanging lanterns and then paraded down before the crowds once more. After the last of the jousting, one village is declared the winner, and the rest are left to lick their wounds. But the party carries on into the night with triumphant victors, languishing losers, and sloshed spectators gathering togeth-er for their last hurrah before dawn.

While the festival is free for anyone to attend, the box seating for the Matsub-ara Hachiman Shrine leg of the fights is reserved for residents and families of the participants. For the Otabiyama leg, it’s first in-best spot. Despite its large size, this festival still retains an authentic and down-to-earth atmosphere. Locals are quick to share their snacks and sake, which flows aplenty for both spectators and participants.

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Oct 14 & 15

HYOGO

Nada no Kenka Matsuri灘のけんか祭りMatsubara Hachiman Shrine, Himeji

Time: 11am Oct 14 at Matsubara Hachiman Shrine9am Oct 15 at Matsubara Hachiman Shrine then OtabiyamaAdmission: Free • Access: Sanyo Line, Shirahamanomiya Stn, 5-min walk • nadamatsuri.jp

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The TreasuresOF

TAMBA SASAYAMA

Discover the delights of one of Hyogo’s hidden gems.

TEXT: KS

FEATURE

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STUNNING SUITS OF ARMOR ON DISPLAY AT SASAYAMA CASTLE

EXQUISITE PAINTED SCREENS LINE TATAMI MAT ROOMS AT THE OSHOIN IN SASAYAMA CASTLE

THE ANMA-FAMILY SAMURAI RESIDENCE MUSEUM HOUSES A COLLECTION OF EDO-PERIOD TOOLS AND HOME FURNISHINGS

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While so much of the action in Japan is concentrated in its big cities, Japanese rural towns are in some

senses making a comeback. In districts like Hyogo’s Tamba Sasayama, residents are working together with the local government to encourage young people to move to the area—or to return there if it’s where they grew up—to start their businesses and families. Don’t be sur-prised to drive down a quiet, seemingly sleepy street only to find a renovated kominka (traditional wooden house) converted into a hip craft beer brewpub, or a gourmet coffee house, or an art gal-lery and gift shop with a holistic therapy salon sitting atop.

Businesses like these, started by budding entrepreneurs looking to strengthen the local community and provide value to travelers and passersby, can be found in several pockets of Tamba Sasayama. This region provides a way of life that has eluded many young Japanese—fresh air, nature on the door-step, stillness, silence, plenty of time for contemplation. Above all, a sense of community and of knowing your neigh-bors. All of this is probably what makes it such a wonderful place to visit.

The city, about a 60-minute train ride northwest of Osaka, was created in 1999 through the merger of the former town of Sasayama as well as three other villages—Konda, Nishiki, and Tannan. In November 2018, the city held a suc-cessful referendum to change its name to Tamba Sasayama, referencing the historical Tamba Province that the city has been a part of. Best explored with a rental car (although possible using public trains and busses), this region makes a welcome retreat away from the

throngs of tourists packing the popular sightseeing spots in destinations like Kyoto. A place where you feel like you can experience the ‘real’ Japan, follow our itinerary for a perfect weekend in Tamba Sasayama.

DAY 1

VISIT SASAYAMA CASTLE

The first stop for anyone with an inter-est in Japanese history is Sasayama Cas-tle, or rather the remains of it. While the outer walls and moats are more or less intact, as with many Japanese castles these days, the remaining central structure—the Oshoin—is, in fact, a faith-fully reconstructed copy. The castle was hurriedly built in 1609 as a base from which to launch an attack on Osaka by none other than Tokugawa Ieyasu, who was more concerned with function over aesthetics, which is why a central tower for the castle was never constructed.

Today, the Oshoin serves as a museum where you can peruse artifacts in a se-ries of tatami (straw mat) rooms. For the full historical experience, you can even try on a set of samurai armor.

ROAM THE OLD SAMURAI RESIDENCE QUARTER

Just a short drive or 10-minute walk from the castle, visit Sasayama’s charm-ing old samurai residence quarter where many traditional thatched buildings have been painstakingly preserved. Here, the Anma-Family Samurai Residence Museum, a 200-year-old former samurai home, has a superb collection of Edo-period tools and home furnishings.

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STROLL DOWN NIKAIMACHI SHOPPING STREET

Back in town, a wander along the Nikaimachi shopping street will take you past restaurants serving local delica-cies like botan nabe (wild boar hotpot) and Sasayama beef, and street-food vendors peddling roasted chestnuts in the cold months and kuromame (black bean) snacks year-round. The Tamba Sasayama History Museum is worth checking out to learn more about the area and its past.

PERUSE POTTERY ART AT TAMBA TRADITIONAL ART CRAFT PARK

For genuine pottery lovers, it’s well worth the effort to get out to Tamba Traditional Craft Park (Tachikui Sue-no-sato), a 20-minute drive outside the city. Set in the verdant, mountainous Tamba countryside, the park features a special nobori gama inclined kiln, which attracts artisans from all over the world. For a chance to make your own Tamba-yaki ceramics, book yourself into a pottery workshop.

On October 19th and 20th, visitors can browse and buy exquisite local ceramics and autumn foods during the Tamba Pottery Festival.

EAT LOCAL SOBA NOODLES

Slurp down a hearty bowl of yamanoimo tsuke tororo soba noodles served in the local style with a mashed yam and egg topping at the restaurant Hanakoushi in the Kawaramachi district.

CLIMB THE STAIRS TO OJIYAMA MAKEKIRAI INARI

According to legend, the rather unusual name of this shrine—Makekirai Inari, or the “hate to lose shrine”—was construct-ed in honor of a group of foxes who, sometime in the first half of the 19th century, took the form of sumo wres-tlers and participated in an important sumo competition in Tokyo to please the lord of Sasayama. (Foxes are regarded as a tutelary animal of Shinto shrines). Sasayama’s feudal lord at the time was known for his hatred of losing and was very pleased when these mysterious wrestlers won the competition on behalf

of his domain, which had not performed well in the sumo previously. Nowadays, this shrine is said to be good luck for anyone who walks up through the tun-nel of vermilion torii gates and prays for success in sports competitions, passing exams, business, and job-hunting. There is a beautiful view from the top next to the shrine.

STAY A NIGHT IN THE POST TOWN OF FUKUSUMI

About a 20-minute drive from Kawara-machi, the Fukusumi district connected Sasayama and Kyoto in the Edo period (1603–1868) and was a popular over-night stop on this historic route. The old townscape still retains its Edo-period atmosphere from when its many ac-commodations opened their doors to travelers. There are several renovated and well-maintained traditional wooden houses that provide historic overnight lodgings for visitors to Fukusumi. Mori no fudo is one such house built around 200 years ago that rents to groups of up to five people for around ¥15,000 per night. Bookings can be made at morino-food.com P

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Autumn FestivalThe Tamba Sasayama Aji Matsuri (autumn flavors festival) will take place on October 12th, 13th, and 14th. During the event, visitors can enjoy local specialties like black soybean edamame, Tamba chestnuts, matsutake mushrooms, and wild boar in miso soup.

RIGHT: THE STRIKING TORII GATES OF MAKEKIRAI INARI SHRINE

ABOVE: SOBA NOODLES SERVED WITH A MASHED YAM AND EGG TOPPING

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DAY 2

START THE MORNING WITH FRESHLY GROUND COFFEE

Wander over to the spacious cafe and roasting house Magnum Coffee and start your day with the best cup of joe in Tamba Sasayama.

GET A RELAXING HERBAL TREATMENT

Head to Holistic Mugwort and meet your natural therapy specialist 32-year-old Maya Adachi who uses plants and herbs grown in the Tamba Sasayama region to provide relief from and heal-ing of various skin and body ailments. She is an expert in massage and body tapping techniques as well as a variety of herbal treatments. While you wait for your appointment, shop for rare souvenirs in the quaint gallery and gift shop downstairs, Littleleaf, run by Adachi’s husband.

RENT A BICYCLE AND EXPLORE THE REGION ON TWO WHEELS

Despite being flanked by mountains, the Tamba Sasayama town areas are relatively flat, making the roads perfect for cycling. Drop into the Green Cross Road bicycle shop and cafe and choose from the vast array of bikes on the advice of Daisuke Murakami, a huge cycling enthusiast who has even assisted the Japan national cycling team during past competitions. At Green Cross Road, road bikes, mountain bikes, and regular town riding bikes are available for rent, plus there are maintenance, repair, and customization options if you happen to turn up with your own set of wheels. Ask Daisuke for his recommendations on the best cycling routes around the district.

WIND DOWN WITH A CRAFT BEER

After a long afternoon of biking, head over to Tamba Sasayama Tabijino Brewery’s newly opened rustic craft beer brewpub for a glass of their pilsner, pale ale, weizen, or stout.

TANBASASAYAMA.COM

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Getting ThereFrom Osaka, take a rapid train on the JR Fukuchiyama/Takarazuka line to Sasayamaguchi Station. Stop by the Tamba Sasayama Tourist Station to pick up handy maps and leaflets for exploring the region. From the station, take the Shinki bus for 15 mins and get off at the Nikaimachi stop. From there you can enjoy Sasayama on foot, beginning with the castle.

HERBAL RELAXATION AT HOLISTIC MUGWORT.

RIGHT: STAY IN A TRADITIONAL HOUSE IN FUKUSUMI

RENT A BIKE FROM GREEN CROSS ROAD AND EXPLORE ON TWO WHEELS

Find it… Sasayama Castle 2-3 Kitashinmachi; withsasayama.jp • Anma-Family Samurai Residence Museum 95 Nishi-shinmachi; withsasayama.jp/REKIBUN/anma_top.htm • Tamba Sasayama City Historical Museum 53 Gofukumachi; withsasayama.jp • Tamba Traditional Craft Park 3 Kamitachikui Kondacho; tanbayaki.

com • Hanakoushi 160 Kawaramachi; hanakoushi.jugem.jp • Makekirai Inari 92 Kawaramachi; makekirai.com • Mori no fudo 194-1 Kawara; morinofood.com • Magnum Coffee 317 Fukusumi; magnum-millpour.com • Holistic Mugwort 379-2 Fukusumi; tanbasasayama.com/2019/03/20/holistic-mugwort • Green Cross Road 372 Fukusumi; high-lander2.com • Tabijino Brewery 385 Fukusumi; t-brewery.jp

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FEATURE

THE ART of the

KatanaFrom his workshop in the hills of Wakayama, this fresh-faced swordsmith endeavors to protect a dying Japanese art.

TEXT: KS

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Stationed in a waist-high con-crete pit measuring roughly two-by-two meters at his Kat-suragi workshop in Wakayama,

33-year-old swordmaker Hamakawa Sadasumi stands face-to-face with a fiery forge. Reaching searing temperatures of 1,300 to 1,500 degrees, this blazing fur-nace is where the magic of Hamakawa’s sword crafting begins.

Dressed in classic white workman’s attire, including white tabi socks and wooden geta clogs, he patiently stokes the flames with a long-handled poker before swiftly withdrawing a chunk of superheated tamahagane steel from the furnace. Meaning “jewel steel,” tamahagane is produced from iron sand, a source of iron ore. Hamakawa sources his tamahagane from Shimane Prefecture, where one mountain town is now the exclusive source for the top-quality steel needed by craftsmen who make swords.

Placing the red-hot hunk of steel carefully on an anvil, he begins to vigorously hammer the glowing brick using a loud hammering machine then several handheld chisels, sending showers of incandescent sparks flying across the workshop floor. The forged tamahagane is folded transversely and longitudinally many times. It is heated and then cooled by water at each stage, which oxidizes the steel surface. Remov-ing these oxidized layers reduces the steel’s impurities.

All this is before painstakingly shap-ing the blade using an array of hammers and chisels. Hamakawa explains the most crucial aspect of making a sword, apart from removing as many impuri-ties as possible from the tamahagane, is molding the tip of the blade correctly.

“There’s nothing easy about any of the steps, but the most critical is the tip of the sword. If you mess that up, you can’t use any of the blade—you have to start all over again. It can all be over in 10 minutes.”

Adding a further layer of difficulty, there are basically no directions or formulas left to make ancient swords. “There’s no template for making that curve—it all has to come from memoriz-

ing what I was taught from my master during my apprenticeship.”

Hashimoto-born Hamakawa decided at high-school age that he wanted to eschew the typical corporate path that most Japanese youth follow these days. He wanted to forge a career out of making something with his hands, and finally sought out his sensei (master)—re-nowned swordmaker Gasan Sadatoshi from Nara Prefecture—who he would apprentice under for eight years.

During these eight laborious years, he learned the life of a swordsmith is a ritual of scalding heat, hard labor, and the unstinting pursuit of perfec-tion. But the passion was instilled in him, and after passed his swordsmith examination and receiving permission to produce Japanese swords in his own style, he set up his workshop where he will endeavor to honor and uphold this dying Japanese art.

“It wasn’t until I started doing it that I realized I was going to become part of a movement of protecting a tradi-tional Japanese craft,” he said. There are around 300 registered swordmakers in the country but probably only about 10 percent of those are making swords on a regular basis. For those few involved in katana production today, the samurai blade embodies the supremely honed workmanship for which Japanese crafts-men are renowned across the world.

Hamakawa at 33 is one of the young-est and plans to take on an apprentice himself one day.

Working two to three days a week in his workshop, Hamakawa says he could make two swords a month, but he usu-ally only makes them to order, meaning he makes just a handful every year.

Buyers are most often Japanese or for-eign collectors with a love of traditional Japanese swords. Some customers even buy his swords to display in their homes as a symbol of spiritual protection. A single, high-quality katana sword can cost anywhere from one million yen (US $9,000) to several million yen.

A soft-spoken, humble young man, Hamakawa says he wants more people to know about and appreciate the beauty of Japanese swords. He occasion-

ally holds workshops and viewings for visitors to Wakayama who are interested in seeing the swordmaking process first-hand. For a chance to visit him at his workshop and watch him forge his blades, contact Koyasanroku DMO*.

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*Official Destination Management Organization of the Koya Region

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

PERSIMMON PARADISEWe all know the saying that an apple a day keeps the doctor away. Well, in Japan, when the persimmons are red, the doctor becomes blue…

TEXT: KS

The saying is thanks to the many and varied health benefits of persimmons (kaki). The round, orange-colored fruits are the symbol of autumn in Japan, so now is the time to take full advantage!

Originally from China, persimmon trees have been grown for thousands of years and the Hashimoto region of Wakayama is one of the biggest persimmon growing areas of the country. Known for their sweet, honey-like flavor, premium kaki are highly prized in Japan.

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Health BenefitsTeeming with vita-mins, minerals, and fiber, here are some of the health perks of eat-ing persimmons.

• Loaded with nutrientsPersimmons pack an impressive vitamin punch with one serving providing 55% of the RDI (recommended daily intake) of Vitamin A, 22% of Vitamin C, and 30% of manganese.• A powerful source of antioxidantsKaki are an excellent source of powerful antioxidants like carotenoids and flavonoids. Diets rich in these compounds have been linked to a reduced risk of certain diseases, including heart disease and diabetes.• Great for gut healthPersimmons contain loads of fiber, which is good for digestion, containing almost 20% of the daily requirement in a single serving. Fiber-rich foods like persimmons can help lower cholesterol, reduce blood sugar levels and keep your digestive system healthy. Plus, fiber helps fuel the “good bacteria” in your intestines, which enhances your digestive and overall health.*A tip from Hashimoto persimmon farmer Kouhei Ohara: eating at least two persimmons before a night on the booze is an effective hangover prevention!

Recipe TipsNot only are persimmons great for our bodies, they are super tasty and pair well with both sweet and savory foods. Here are some delicious ideas for incorporating kaki into your daily cooking.

• Top your morning yogurt or oatmeal with fresh or cooked persimmon for a burst of natural sweetness.• Broil persimmon and serve with baked Brie cheese for a tasty appetizer.• Slice kaki onto a salad for extra flavor (pairs particularly well with baby spinach and ricotta cheese).• Bake persimmons with chicken or meat for a unique flavor combination.• Roast them in the oven and drizzle with honey for a tasty and healthy dessert.• Grate fresh persimmon and mix it into muffin, bread or cake mix.• Combine with berries and citrus fruits for a delicious fruit salad.

“Hashimoto city, lying in the shadow of Mt. Koya, experiences the perfect weather conditions for growing sweet persimmons. Warm with a little rain, with sunny afternoons and cool nights. We pride ourselves on producing only the finest persimmons on our farm, monitoring their exposure to sunlight and ensuring the perfect firmness of the fruit. Aside from freshly picked fruit, I recommend Wakayama Persimmon Pudding as a way to enjoy the persimmon at their best. Join us in December for a special Persimmon event!*”– Kouhei Ohara Ksfarm, Hashimoto, Wakayama Website: ks-farm.com Email: [email protected]

WAKAYAMA PERSIMMON PUDDING*Details on kansaiscene.com

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com16

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Find places to dine, things to do, and browse job and classified listings in the Kansai area

Looking for something?

KansaiFinder.com

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Botan nabe (wildbore hot pot)

Tamba Sasyama black beans

Tourism ambassadors

Mascot character Maruino

Kasuga shrine Noh stage

Maruyama vil lage

創T a m b a S a s a y a m aT r a d i t i o n a l , y e t I n n o v a t i v e ! !

Tamba Sasayama, a member city of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network, maintains its traditional culture and rustic nature, yet embraces new ideas and possibilities allowing innovative interactions to burgeon in every corner of the city.

Blessed with rich culture, nature, and culinary delights, Tamba Sasayama makes your stay magical!

Address 165-1 Ozawa, Sasayama, Hyogo, 669-2212 Directly linked from JR Sasayamaguchi Station

Tel 079-590-2077

Email [email protected] UR L https://visit.sasayama.jp/en

FREE Wi - Fi

Ta m b a S a s a y a m a To u r i s t S t a t i o nVisit us to gain the latest information on sightseeing, local events, accommodation, and more! English speaking sta� members are always stationed here to welcome you!!

KobeJCT

YokawaJCT

MikiJCT

SuitaJCT

AyabeJCT

KIX

UKB

ITMITM

TKG

Hyogo

Kyoto

Kyoto

Tennoji

Sonobe

JR Sanin Main Line

Osaka

Nara

WakayamaWakayama

Sakaishi

OsakaAmagasakiAmagasakiNishinomiya

Sumiyoshi

Kobe

Akashi

Kakogawa

Himeji

Tanikawa

SasayamaguchiSasayamaguchi

FukuchiyamaAyabe

Wadayama

ToyookaKinosaki OnsenKinosaki Onsen

Higashimaizuru

JR Maizuru LineJR Maizuru Line

Fukui

ObamaJR Sanin Main Line

Takeda

JR Fukuchiyama Line

JR B

anta

n Lin

e

JR K

akog

awa L

ine

TambaSasayama-cityTambaSasayama-city

ArimaOnsen

TannanSasayamaguchiJCT

TannanSasayamaguchiJCT

JR Osaka Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station

Osaka → Hanshin Expressway → Ikeda IC → Chugoku Expressway → Yokawa IC → Maizuru Wakase Expressway → Tannan Sasayamaguchi IC

AccessFrom Osaka

about 60 min by Train

about 50 min by Car

JR Sannomiya Station → JR Amagasaki Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station

Kobe → Shinkobe Tu nnel → Hanshin Expressway Kitakobe Line / Minotani IC → Rokkoukita Tollway → Chugoku Expressway / KobeSa nda IC → Maizu ru Wakasa Expressway / Tannan Sasayamaguchi IC

From Kobe

about 80 min by Train

about 90 min by Car

JR Kyoto Station → JR Amagasaki Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station

Kobe → Route 9 → Kyoto Jyukan Highway → Route 372

From Kobe

about 110 min by Train

about 60 min by Car

Page 19: €¦ · Autumn The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas Explore KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS Travel TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI Discover

Botan nabe (wildbore hot pot)

Tamba Sasyama black beans

Tourism ambassadors

Mascot character Maruino

Kasuga shrine Noh stage

Maruyama vil lage

創T a m b a S a s a y a m aT r a d i t i o n a l , y e t I n n o v a t i v e ! !

Tamba Sasayama, a member city of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network, maintains its traditional culture and rustic nature, yet embraces new ideas and possibilities allowing innovative interactions to burgeon in every corner of the city.

Blessed with rich culture, nature, and culinary delights, Tamba Sasayama makes your stay magical!

Address 165-1 Ozawa, Sasayama, Hyogo, 669-2212 Directly linked from JR Sasayamaguchi Station

Tel 079-590-2077

Email [email protected] UR L https://visit.sasayama.jp/en

FREE Wi - Fi

Ta m b a S a s a y a m a To u r i s t S t a t i o nVisit us to gain the latest information on sightseeing, local events, accommodation, and more! English speaking sta� members are always stationed here to welcome you!!

KobeJCT

YokawaJCT

MikiJCT

SuitaJCT

AyabeJCT

KIX

UKB

ITMITM

TKG

Hyogo

Kyoto

Kyoto

Tennoji

Sonobe

JR Sanin Main Line

Osaka

Nara

WakayamaWakayama

Sakaishi

OsakaAmagasakiAmagasakiNishinomiya

Sumiyoshi

Kobe

Akashi

Kakogawa

Himeji

Tanikawa

SasayamaguchiSasayamaguchi

FukuchiyamaAyabe

Wadayama

ToyookaKinosaki OnsenKinosaki Onsen

Higashimaizuru

JR Maizuru LineJR Maizuru Line

Fukui

ObamaJR Sanin Main Line

Takeda

JR Fukuchiyama Line

JR B

anta

n Lin

e

JR K

akog

awa L

ine

TambaSasayama-cityTambaSasayama-city

ArimaOnsen

TannanSasayamaguchiJCT

TannanSasayamaguchiJCT

JR Osaka Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station

Osaka → Hanshin Expressway → Ikeda IC → Chugoku Expressway → Yokawa IC → Maizuru Wakase Expressway → Tannan Sasayamaguchi IC

AccessFrom Osaka

about 60 min by Train

about 50 min by Car

JR Sannomiya Station → JR Amagasaki Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station

Kobe → Shinkobe Tu nnel → Hanshin Expressway Kitakobe Line / Minotani IC → Rokkoukita Tollway → Chugoku Expressway / KobeSa nda IC → Maizu ru Wakasa Expressway / Tannan Sasayamaguchi IC

From Kobe

about 80 min by Train

about 90 min by Car

JR Kyoto Station → JR Amagasaki Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station

Kobe → Route 9 → Kyoto Jyukan Highway → Route 372

From Kobe

about 110 min by Train

about 60 min by Car

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紅葉

TRADITIONAL PERFORMING ARTS IN KANSAI

Noh & MomijiAria Aoyama from The Japan Institute for Culture & International Exchange sat down with Yoshie Yamamoto from the acclaimed Yamamoto Noh Theater in Osaka to discuss Noh and its relationship with momiji - autumn leaves.

TEXT: KS

PRESENTED BY THE JAPAN

INSTITUTE FOR CULTURE &

INTERNATIONAL EXCHANGE

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Yamamoto: Aria, have you ever heard of the “maple front”?

Aoyama: Yes, the autumn foliage front, akin to the spring cherry blossom front. The cherry blossom front travels from south to north, while the maple foliage front travels from north to south. Beginning in Hokkaido in early October, it works its way down the country until the last leaves turn red in Kagoshima in early December. I think Japan must be the only country that has a maple foliage and cherry blossom forecast! Japanese cherry blossoms have been renowned internationally for some time, but recently it is attracting attention for its stunning autumn leaves too.

Y: It is a gift from Japan’s topography and nature. Since the Manyo era, Japa-nese people have celebrated the autumn “momiji” lit. red leaves. There are actu-ally two different kanji characters that can be pronounced “momiji”. Maple leaves that turn yellow in the fall (黄葉) and those that turn red (紅葉). In popular literature of the time, yellow maple songs were more popular, but recently red maple are more popular in Japan.

A: I know there are Noh plays with cherry blossom themes, but are there plays that have autumn leaf themes too?

Y: Yes there are! “Tatsuta” and “Mom-iji-gari” (lit. autumn leaves hunting).

A: Ah, “Tatsuta” refers to the Tatsuta River in Mt. Ikoma doesn’t it, a famous mountain for autumn leaves?

Y: Aria, you know very well! The autumn leaves of the Tatsuta River are famous, and their beauty likened to the exquisite “Nishiki” silk textiles pro-duced in Kyoto. The play is a story about

the beauty of the autumn leaves of the Tatsuta River, and the Princess Tatsuta, the god of Tatsuta River who dances to bring peace to the country.

A: And “Momiji-gari” – is the popular pursuit of autumn leaves ‘hunting’ isn’t it. A custom that Japanese people have enjoyed since the Heian period over a thousand years ago.

Y: Yes, that’s right. The Noh play “Momiji-gari” begins in the mountains where beautiful women hold a feast in honour of the autumn leaves. Koremori Taira, a brave samurai passes by during a deer hunt, and is proffered with sake by the women. He drinks and soon falls asleep experiencing a dream in which a god appears and tells him that the beautiful women are in fact incarna-tions of demons! When he wakes up, sure enough the women transform into demons and attack him, but he is able to vanquish them. The play is set in Mount Togakushi, a famous place for autumn leaves in Nagano prefecture, and based on an ancient local legend. It warns of the age-old vulnerability men display concerning alcohol and beautiful women! “Momiji-gari” is a very popular Noh play, and has since been adapted into Bunraku and Kabuki productions.

A: Hehe. Always be careful with beau-tiful women and sake! I love the way Noh incorporates nature and real-life lessons into its rich narratives.

Y: Aria, I can’t wait for the autumn leaves. Let’s go to autumn leaves hunt-ing together!

A: I’m looking forward to it.

See a Noh PlaySPECIAL NOH PLAY “MOMIJI-GARI” (AUTUMN LEAVE HUNTING) WITH SUBTITLES IN ENGLISHOct 25, Yamamoto Noh Theater, OsakaTime: 7–9pm • Admission: ¥4,000 • noh-theater.com • Reservations: [email protected] • Tel: 06-6943-9454

EVENINGS OF TRADITIONAL JAPANESE PERFORMING ARTS IN OSAKAYamamoto Noh Theater, OsakaEnjoy four traditional performing arts in one night. Sep 7: (Chikuzen-Biwa, Comic-monologue with Shamisen, Narrative Ballads, Raugo)Oct 12: (Noh play, Kyogen, Story telling, Rakugo)Nov 30: (Noh play, Kyogen, Narrative Ballads, Rakugo)Dec 31: (New Year’s Eve Special)Time: 7–9pm • Admission: ¥3,500–¥5,500 • noh-theater.com • Reservations: [email protected] • Tel: 06-6943-9454

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MYSTERIOUS WOMEN TURN INTO DEMONS IN THE PLAY MOMIJI-GARI

A BEAUTIFUL HAND PAINTED FAN USED IN NOH PERFORMANCES

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FALLING FOR AUTUMN INIbaraki

For a memorable autumn getaway filled with fall foliage and stunning seascapes, head for the

mountains and coastlines of Northern Ibaraki.

TEXT: LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA

TRAVEL

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ROKAKUDO PAGODA

PERCHED ON THE SHORES OF THE IZURA COAST, THIS HEXAGONAL STRUCTURE IS AN INSTAGRAM HOTSPOT

HANAZONO SHRINE

PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES ABOUND IN HANAZONO GORGE

Although Ibaraki Prefecture is part of the Kanto region, once you go north of Ibaraki, you enter Fukushima Prefecture

and the Tohoku area, and perhaps as a result, the charms of Ibaraki sometimes get overshadowed by higher-profile members of Kanto’s seven prefectures. Flanked by the Pacific Ocean and replete with mountains, waterfalls, and forests, Ibaraki offers a wealth of natural beauty. The northern region of the prefecture comes into its own in autumn, making it well worth a visit at this time of year.

Northern Ibaraki is an area best explored by car and the peak season for foliage varies from year to year but is generally mid-November. Two lovely foliage spots with similar names but different vibes are Hananuki Gorge and Hanazono Gorge. The more well-known of these is Hananuki, which is officially part of the city of Takahagi. The area runs from the Hananuki Dam to the Ko-takizawa Camping Ground, but the most popular section for travelers is centered around the picturesque wooden suspen-sion bridge of Shiomidaki Tsuribashi.

It doesn’t take long to reach the bridge from the parking lot, and once over the bridge, you can continue on a short hiking course through the forest,

which loops back to the beginning. On peak leaf-viewing weekends, there are several vendors selling various snacks and drinks, which make a good option for a casual lunch in a festival-like atmosphere

In contrast, Hanazono Gorge, which comes under Kita-Ibaraki City and is about 40 minutes north of Hananuki, seems to be a bit of a hidden gem. You will likely only share it with a handful of other leaf-peepers when visiting on a weekend during peak fall-leaf season. Next to the parking lot is the pictur-esque little Hanazono Shrine, and there are plenty of photo opportunities in the immediate vicinity with the magnifi-cent trees, a meandering stream, and small waterfalls. If you’re feeling more energetic, a hiking trail up into the forest begins just past the parking lot. There are no options for food nearby, but the shrine has a vending machine for drinks.

One of the advantages of northern Ibaraki is that you can easily move from forests and waterfalls to ocean vistas. Once you’ve had your fill of foliage, head over to the Izura Coast at the very northern edge of the prefecture for fresh, salty sea air and some unusual architecture. “Izura” means “five inlets”

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HITACHI SEASIDE PARK

THE FLUFFY RED BUSHES OF THE SUMMER CYPRESS ARE A POPULAR AUTUMN DRAW

FUKURODA FALLS

ONE OF JAPAN’S TOP THREE WATERFALLS

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and perched on a cliff is the area’s most famous building, the six-sided Rok-kakudo pagoda. It was designed and built in 1905 by the artist, writer, and scholar Tenshin Okakura (1862–1913) as a space where he and his students could hold tea ceremonies and contemplate. Okakura’s admiration for Chinese cul-ture and architecture is evident in the design. The original was washed away in the tsunami that hit much of northern Japan in 2011 but was painstakingly recreated to honor the original design and reopened in the spring of 2012.

To get the full effect of the beauty of Rokkakudo against the backdrop of the ocean, turn left back on the main road and walk 500 meters to Izura Misaki Park to take in the view from the top of the hill.

It’s also well worth visiting the nearby Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art to learn more about his many talents. Tenshin Okakura was born in Yokohama and his interest in art, philosophy and other cultures lead to travel around the world. He fell in love with the Izura area and settled here in later life, promoting his students and their families to join him. His writings in English helped to spread knowledge about Japanese art and culture to the West, and he chal-

lenged and inspired the younger artists he mentored to break new ground. English audio guides are available at the museum, and the on-site Camellia Café offers light meals and drinks.

When driving along the coast of northern Ibaraki, a great little place to stop for lunch or afternoon coffee is Sea-ne, a sunny café located at the beachside Unoshima Villa pension in Hitachi. A family-run business, it was completely rebuilt after being destroyed by the 2011 tsunami. While the Tohoku area bore the brunt of the damage from the tsunami, this area of Ibaraki suf-fered, too. The café uses local vegetables and seafood to create their dishes, and homemade cakes are also on offer. When you’re done, take a walk along the private beach in front.

If you want to spend more time in northern Ibaraki and don’t mind the crowds, the Fukuroda Falls in the Daigo region are worth a visit. Impressive both in height (120 m) and width (73 m), they are acclaimed as one of Japan’s “top three falls” and draw a lot of visitors at any time of the year, but particularly in the fall foliage season. A 20-minute drive from there is the Tsukimachi Waterfall, which is a lot less crowded. The interest-

ing aspect here is that you can walk behind the cascade for a unique view.

A little closer to Tokyo is the Hitachi Seaside Park, which is popular with all ages for its amusement rides and expansive flower fields. In autumn, an unusual flower called the kochia (sum-mer cypress) becomes the star of the show. Its heads turn into fluffy red balls that look a little like minor characters in a Muppet movie. Autumn cosmos are also in bloom around the same time, so there are plenty of photo opportunities here, but note the peak for the flowers is usually October, so it won’t overlap with the foliage spots in the area. The park is huge and if you end up in an overflow parking lot, be prepared to do a lot of walking. If you’re planning to visit on a weekend, arrive as early as you can to secure a parking spot. KS

GETTING THEREFrom Shin-Osaka Station or Kyoto Station, take the shinkansen to Tokyo Station. Then take the Limited Express Hitachi or Limited Express Tokiwa to Mito Station. Finally, transfer to the JR Joban line to Takahagi Station.

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WHAT’S ON

From Saturday, October 26 until Thursday, November 14, the 71st Annual Exhibition of Shoso-in Treasures will be held at the Nara

National Museum in commemoration of the enthronement of the new Emperor, with special support from Yomiuri Shim-bun newspaper.

This year’s Shoso-in exhibition will be held for three days longer than past exhibitions in celebration of this special occasion, and will last 20 days in total. A selection of 41 objects will be on display—Shoso-in treasures conveying histories of cultural exchange across the Silk Road.

It will be the first time in 20 years that the whole six-panel folding screen of Torige Ritsujo-no-Byobu (with bird feathers decorating the painting of a lady under a tree) will be displayed, which depicts a beautiful woman dressed in the Tang style. The name derives from the Yama-dori mountain bird feather brocade that was used for the trees and clothing parts. It is a masterpiece representative of the Tang Culture.

The Red-Lacquered Keyaki Cabinet with Fine-Grain Pattern that has been passed

down for generations since Emperor Tenmu’s times will also be on display. Among the pieces likely draw high atten-tion is the treasured largest silver platter in Shoso-in, the Kingin-no-Kaban. It is a silver flower-shaped platter with a deer at its core, and ornamented with glass balls hanging around the rim.

The treasures of Shoso-in started when the Emperor Shomu passed away and Empress Komyo offered the late emperor’s beloved items to the Great Buddha in Nara’s Todaiji Temple. A shoso in ancient times served as a warehouse repository and Shoso-in was one of these. Currently, this is the only remaining shoso at Todaiji Temple, and measures 33 meters in length, and 14 meters in height. The treasures were housed in large hitsu cabi-nets made of cedarwood and the humid-ity levels were strictly monitored. With the start of the Meiji era in the late 19th century, the Shoso-in was placed under the protection and administration of the Imperial Household Agency and the Meiji government. In 1955, the treasures were moved to a reinforced concrete storehouse where they have remained ever since.

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71st Annual Exhibition of Shoso-in Treasures御即位記念第71回正倉院展

OCT 26–NOV 14 • NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM

OPEN: Daily from 9am–6pm (Open until 8pm Fri, Sat, Sun & national holidays. Last admission is 30 minutes before closing.) • ADMISSION:

¥1,100 for adults; ¥700 for high-school and university students; ¥400 for elementary and junior-high-school students. Prices are reduced by ¥100 for advance tickets (on sale until Oct 25) or for groups of at least 20. Admission is FREE on Nov 14. “Autumn late” discount tickets to visit the museum 90 minutes before closing can be purchased 2.5 hours before it closing time. They are priced at ¥800, ¥500, and ¥200, respectively. An advance pair of tickets for an adult visiting with a child of elementary or junior-high-school age costs ¥1,100 • TEL:

050-5542-8600 • www.narahaku.go.jp/english

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KS caught up with Masanao Fuyuhiro, CEO of Ifing Co., Ltd. – the company behind re-generative haircare treatment

brand Tokio Inkarami, at the immersive art project ‘Digitized Forest’ in Kyoto. We were joined by Toshiyuki Inoko, founder of the art collective behind the project – teamLab, and learned how the unlikely collaboration between the two came about.

KS: First of all, what connection is there between your globally renowned hair care range and a cutting edge art project in Kyoto?

Fuyuhiro: Well, we all have different inspirations and influences, but two that have appealed to me personally, are sports and the arts. We sponsor many international sporting competitions, including figure skating, gymnastics, and major league baseball. These sports all require a high degree of mastery,

creativity, and all share a certain athletic beauty. They also have an established history, while projecting a strong vision of the future, always exploring and inno-vating. This is also true for the arts that we sponsor or to be specific, the work of Inoko-san and his teamLab collective. This is now our second year running to sponsor their Digitized Forest event here in Kyoto.

I was initially struck by their Border-less exhibition in Tokyo. It made me realise that in today’s socially-connected world, experience is not limited to the individual. The artworks are experi-enced secondhand too, in some kind of shared experience, via the millions of photos uploaded to social media networks. I really feel that it is the thing now, and that TeamLab captures that nowness in its very essence. I like to think that Tokio Inkarami is also at the forefront of innovation in our own field.

KS: Tokio Inkarami has come to be considered something akin to a miracle product in the haircare industry around the globe, with top stylists, world renowned magazines, and undercover beauty reviewers all raving about it. Can you tell us a bit about the brand?

Fuyuhiro: If I had to describe it in short, I would say that it is the world’s finest hair treatment - combining the best of Japanese technical prowess and beauty knowhow. When I started this brand in 2003, I already had a team of researchers working on the product but it took us nearly 10 years of research to perfect what is now a patented technology.

In just 2 years it became the top sell-ing product amongst salons in Japan and now is found in many of the top salons across the globe, including the salon at the Ritz Hotel in Paris, Hotel Crillon, Four Seasons Moscow, just to name a few.

BUSINESS TALK

HI-TECH HAIR CARE MEETS HI-TECH INSTALLATION ART

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TOKIO INKARAMI SPONSORS TEAMLAB’S DIGITIZED FOREST EVENT AT KYOTO’S WORLD HERITAGE SHIMOGAMO SHRINE

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KS: What do you think has made your product so successful?

Fuyuhiro: Well, I must humbly say that success is yet to come… but what I believe is at the core of what has been achieved so far, is having had the privilege of hearing the opinions of top stylists across Japan, to know what they were really seeking. So we were able to create a product that fulfilled a real need, and market it effectively. We didn’t have a large sales team, but relied instead on visiting top salons directly and focused on bringing this product to a very targeted audience. I think this was key in becoming a top domestic brand in such a short time.

In terms of the international market, though we always had a vision to bring our brand to a global audience (hence the name ‘Tokio’ as in Tokyo), origi-nally I thought that we would mostly appeal to the Asian market. We began in Korea, but actually next was Paris! With such a tradition of beauty and fashion I didn’t think that our products would be relevant to the French market. But to my surprise, we found there was actually an opportunity for Asian beauty products in the country. We developed our treatment for Japanese hair, and the stresses of the Japananese climate, but the product also worked wonders on westerners hair as well. To the extent that it has been dubbed something of a revolution.

KS: You mentioned you chose the name ‘Tokio’ as internationally it repre-sented something Japanese.

Fuyuhiro: Indeed. When I was think-ing about names, we already had the vision of making it a globally renowned brand, and I had a choice of two names in mind. One was Tokio and the other Kyoto - where it all started, and where I grew up. Internationally Tokyo and Kyoto are the most well known Japanese cities, but I eventually I chose Tokio since as I was growing up, I considered Kyoto to be a bit too conservative. Now I realise that Kyoto is a guardian of traditions, and that what Kyoto has preserved, appeals to the world.

KS: Inoko-san. Your amazingly im-mersive teamLab Borderless experience in Odaiba has attracted record break-

ing audiences. Could you tell us a bit about it?

Inoko: Actually, we have just been named the world’s most popular single-artist destination, surpassing the Van Gogh museum and the Dali Museum that have long held the top spots. We had over 2 million people visit in the last year since we opened!

The whole museum is literally with-out borders, playing an essential role in connecting the sixty something works that are housed there. It’s an immersive space where people are able to wander freely. We seem to have created a world in which so many borders exist, but actually it is an invented concept in our brains. It may be that we humans cannot comprehend the world in its continuity, wholeness - a possible limitation of our brains. I wanted people to experience a space that transcends borders.

Fuyuhiro: This borderless concept is also a theme of the Digitized Forest pro-ject too, but in a slightly different way.

Inoko: Yes, just as people tend to not be able to relate to the continuum of space, but the same is true for time. We can only relate to the time that we have lived, with the rest being something we learn or read about. We can comprehend 100 years intellectually, but our bodies struggle to comprehend without direct

experience. This is why I chose to bring our work to the UNESCO World Heritage Shimogamo shrine, a place steeped in history and one of the oldest shrines in Japan, its landscape shaped over centu-ries. Many of the trees are over 600 years old! I wanted to create a place that al-lows us to go beyond the borders of the moment and become part of that mo-ment in continuum, where the feelings and impressions we hold merge into the space itself. Kyoto is lucky to have many places where such experience is possible and we are appreciative of sponsors like Tokio Inkarami that make it possible for us to hold such events.

More infoDigitized Forest runs until Sep 02 at Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto, but teamLab’s Borderless exhibition can be enjoyed year round.

MORI BUILDING DIGITAL ART MUSEUM: EPSON TEAMLAB BORDERLESSAccess: Aomi Station, Odaiba, Tokyo • Open: Weekdays 10am–7pm; Sat, Sun & Hol 10am–9pm • Tickets: https://borderless.teamlab.art

MASANAO FUYUHIRO (L) AND TEAMLAB’S TOSHIYUKI INOKO (R)

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SHOPPING

MIKI HOUSE Wonderland

Make your way to the headquarters of Osaka’s international childrenswear brand

for a one-stop shopping extravaganza.

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One of the first things you notice when emerging from the Yaominami subway station is the large 7-Eleven across the

street. Glance a few buildings to your right, however, and taking center stage is the impressive home of Japanese chil-dren’s clothing brand MIKI HOUSE.

The striking concrete building was completed in 1991 to the exacting stand-ards of CEO and founder Koichi Kimura, whose passion and vision has allowed MIKI HOUSE to grow from strength to strength since its inception in 1971 (read our interview with Mr. Kimura in issue #220). One of his requests, much to the chagrin of his employees, was to use the basement space not as a car park, but as a luxury showroom.

Open five days a week from 11am–6pm, you enter down a set of red-carpeted stairs and find yourself at the center atrium of a semicircular layout of elegant department-store style bou-tiques, each dedicated to a different line of kids’ items from shoes, babywear, books and toys, and even formal wear. Each section is interconnected, creating an immersive MIKI HOUSE wonder-land experience.

The MIKI HOUSE line of cute yet high-quality children’s wear has been a stalwart of kids’ wardrobes for genera-tions. It retains a dedicated clientele eager to see their children and grand-children dressed in the same brand that they themselves once wore. Whilst they have introduced various sub-brands to cater for contemporary trends, such as the American-casual line Double.B and the playful Hot Biscuits range, the simple red and navy Essentials range

emblazoned with the white MIKI HOUSE logo remain the go-to items for nostal-gic shoppers.

The sheer range of items they produce is astonishing. There is everything from gorgeous baby shoes, luxury cashmere duffle coats, and babygrows to picture books, strollers, and even baby baths, covering sizes from newborn to nine years old. Everything is designed and produced to the highest quality and almost entirely in Japan. The attention to detail is apparent everywhere. Their babygrows are manufactured from the softest cotton sourced from the West Indies and close not with buttons or snaps, but with silk ribbons, allowing for easy adjustment. The logos on their classic tees are not printed but embroi-dered with extremely fine stitch. It is a hallmark of the MIKI HOUSE ethos that the clothes must not only look appeal-ing, but last.

Their line of summer yukata and jinbei (traditional summer clothing) feature Japanese motifs and patterns and prove extremely popular with international customers. Although they operate stores across Japan and in key locations over-seas, a major advantage of shopping at their Yao main store is that they can keep nearly all of their items on display year-round. Whilst browsing seasonal items for autumn and winter, you can also find off-season items for the follow-ing spring and summer.

There is free parking onsite, a nursing room, resting area, and multilingual staff on hand to assist international visitors. They even offer free one-on-one workshops for expectant mothers on how to dress and bathe a newborn.

Whether shopping for your own family, or for gifts for family and friends, MIKI HOUSE is your one-stop shop for the highest quality kidswear. KS

MIKI HOUSE Wonderland

MIKI HOUSE MAIN FLAGSHIP STORE1-76-2 Wakabayashi-cho, Yao City, OsakaOpen: 11am–6pmClosed: Wed & ThuTel: +81-72-920-2055Access: Tanimachi Subway line, Yaominami Stn, 1-min walk*When coming by car please use the MIKI HOUSE Main Office parking lot *All major credit cards, WeChat, and AliPay are accepted

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Nestled deep within mountain-ous Nagano Prefecture, four hours by car from Osaka or three hours from Tokyo,

is the small village of Oshika-mura, literally meaning “big deer village.” Located between the Ina Mountains and the Akaishi Mountains in the Southern Alps, this remote, picturesque village where the deer outnumber the people, was selected in 2005 by a Japanese NPO as one of “The Most Beautiful Villages in Japan.”

Entering the alpine village, there is no question as to why. It’s like stepping onto a film set of an old samurai movie. A picture of nostalgic rural charm, yet thankfully minus any sword-wielding bandits. It is not scenic beauty that has kept Oshika-mura on the radar, how-ever, but kabuki theater and salt.

The former has been passed down through generations for over 300 years

and has been designated by the national government as an Important Intangible Folk Culture of Japan. Free performanc-es are staged twice a year within the grounds of Taiseki Shrine.

The latter has been bubbling up through the mountains as saltwater hot springs for thousands of years. At an elevation of 750m above sea level, and so far from the ocean, it is an extremely rare natural phenomenon. To this day, there remains no definitive scientific explanation as to how it got there.

The village can be enjoyed year-round but is particularly beautiful in the au-tumn when the forest is alive with color and the weather a little cooler. If you time it right, you may even be able to enjoy the seasonal kabuki performance on Oct 19. Take a detour from the tourist trail and explore this unique destination away from it all.

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

NAGANO’S MYSTERIOUS SALTWATER SPRINGS

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ARTISAN SALT

Yamashio-Kan not only welcomes guests to its traditional inn but is also the sole producer of Oshika-mura’s rare “mountain salt.” Production is a labor-intensive task. The brine needs to be simmered from dusk to dawn to evaporate the moisture and extract the salt, with only a meager 30g of salt obtainable from each liter of water. With such a low return per volume and its unsuitability for mass production, it is a rare commodity, making it a great souvenir.

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Where to stayYAMASHIOKAN山塩館

One of only two hot-spring resorts in the village, this traditional family-run ryokan offers both comfortable, well-appointed Western- and Japanese-style rooms, complete with an evening meal, breakfast, and access to its hot-spring baths. Enjoy a soothing dip in either the cedarwood or stone bath, letting the salty water work its mineral magic on any weary muscles. Ambient lighting accentuates the relaxing mood, and large windows offer unrestricted views of the peaceful woodland surroundings beyond.

The hearty meals, prepared by the whole family, are crafted with loving care using local recipes passed down through generations. Dishes feature locally sourced deer and game and other seasonal local produce, such as wild moun-tain vegetables during the summer months. Vegetarians can be catered for with advance notice. yamashio.com

Noodle LunchSURUGI NOUEN FARMするぎ農園

Surugi Nouen Farm offers soba noodles made from home-grown buckwheat that are milled and prepared in-house for optimum texture and flavor. They are served with delicious side dishes including seasonal vegetable tempura, homemade tofu salad, and a special sweet-and-sour stew prepared with Oshika-mura soybeans. Each dish is made from locally sourced produce and accentu-ated with Oshikamura’s unique mountain salt. Their organic Guatemalan cold-drip coffee is brewed for two hours and provides a welcome post-lunch coffee fix. www.osk.janis.or.jp/~kindosan

Geological MuseumTHE OSHIKA MUSEUM OF JAPAN MEDIAN TECTONIC LINE大鹿村中央構造線博物館

Oshika-mura lies on the path of Japan’s largest continuous fault line—the Median Tectonic Line (MTL)—and is home to the only museum dedicated to this extraordinary geological feature in Japan. The MTL stretches from Kanto to Kyushu and was created about 100 million years ago, before the opening of the Sea of Japan, when the Japanese archipelago was still part of the Asian con-tinent. The museum contains several hundred pieces of rock specimens, along with exhibits of cross-sections of the fault and other diorama models. This is a fascinating opportunity to deepen your understanding of Japan’s tectonic geog-raphy and learn how the Japanese archipelago was formed. mtl-muse.com

Getting ThereRenting a car is the easiest way to get to Oshika-mura. During November, however, JR operates a special scenic line running from Toyohashi in Aichi (a stop on the Tokaido Shinkansen Kodama line) to Iida in Nagano, just 45 mins from Oshika-mura by car/taxi. See online for more details: https://japanrailandtravel.com/trains/jr-central/the-iida-line-unexplored-station-train

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Osaka

OSAKA

FUTON DAIKO – FESTIVAL OF FLOATING DRUMS 百舌鳥八幡宮秋祭り ふとん太鼓Sep 14–15 • Mozu Hachimangu Shrine, OsakaThe Futon Drum Festival is a popular autumn event held throughout Sakai City as well as other areas in Osaka and Hyogo. The festival floats are quite distinctive; there is a roof made from red futons forming an inverted pyramid, and a Japanese drum is placed underneath. Each float weighs about three tonnes and more than 50 men carry it in the processions. On both days, each participating neighborhood will take turns carrying the futon drum floats.TIME: 11am–10:30pm Sep 14; 9:30am–10pm Sep 15 • ADMISSION:

Free • ACCESS: JR Hanwa Line, Mozu Stn, 10-min walk • mozu8.com

OSAKA

YABUSAME SHINJI – HORSE STUNT CEREMONY流鏑馬神事Oct 25 • Osaka Temmangu Shrine, OsakaIn this exciting religious event continued since the 15th century, dressed horses and riders perform stunts in front of Osaka Temmangu Shrine. The rider, typically a priest of the shrine, shoots arrows in four different directions, then mounts the horse and attempts to hit three targets.TIME: 3pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Osakatemmangu Stn • tenjinsan.com/index.html

OSAKA

SHITENNOJI WASSO四天王寺ワッソNov 3 • Naniwa-no-miya ato Park, OsakaWasso is a spectacular carnival commemorating the cultural exchange between Japan and other Asian countries. One highlight is the grand parade of ancient Chinese, Korean, and Japanese courtiers, which is scheduled between

noon and 3pm. Thousands of costumed people will parade around the park while dancing to traditional music. Enjoy Korean and Japanese cuisine and don’t miss the chance to try on a traditional folk costume. A child-friendly area with Wasso-related activities will be available.TIME: 10:30am–5pm • ADMISSION:

Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Line, Tanimachi-4-Chome Stn, Exit 10, 5-min walk • wasso.net

Kyoto

KYOTO

SEIRYU-E – DRAGON PARADE青龍会Sep 14–15 • Kiyomizu Temple & Surroundings, KyotoAccording to one of the legends of Kiyomizu Temple, a blue dragon (Seiryu), an incarnation of Kannon, flies to drink from the waterfall every night. At this event, with an 18-meter-long figure of the blue dragon leading the way,

a variety of performers featuring elaborate costumes parade through the grounds and the surrounding temple town, praying for peace and expelling bad luck. TIME: 2pm–3:30pm • ADMISSION:

Free • ACCESS: Keihan Line, Gion-shijo Stn, bus to Kiyomizumichi • monzenkai.com/seiryue.html

KYOTO

HYAKKI YAGYO – NIGHT PARADE OF 100 DEMONS一条百鬼夜行Oct 19 • Taishogun Shopping StreetLegend has it that, once upon a time, 100 yokai (supernatural beings) paraded through the Taishogun shopping street. To commemorate the tale, crowds of enthusiasts flood the street in their elaborate yokai disguises to interact with their fellow supernaturals. For those longing for more ghosts and monsters, spooky trinkets are on sale at the flea market on adjacent streets.TIME: 6pm–7pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keifuku Electric Railroad (Randen), Kitano-Hakubaicho Stn, 5-min walk • kyoto-taisyogun.com

OSAKA

KISHIWADA DANJIRI FESTIVAL岸和田だんじり祭りSep 14–15 • Kishiwada Stn & SurroundingsIntricately carved danjiri (floats) are pulled at high speeds by teams of men around the narrow streets of the town. The highlight of this race-like parade is the yarimawashi, when the danjiri makes a 90-degree turn at an intersection. These intersections are extremely popular viewing spots and crowds of visitors cheer when a seamless turn is completed. At dusk, the danjiri are illuminated with paper lanterns making for a calm, serene atmosphere, a real contrast to the high-energy action of the day. Those interested in discovering more about the festival can visit the Kishiwada Danjiri Kaikan Museum located near Kishiwada Castle.TIME: 6am–10pm Sep 14; 9am–10pm Sep 15 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Nankai line, Kishiwada Stn; Nankai line, Haruki Stn • city.kishiwada.osaka.jp/site/danjiri

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What’s On Cultural

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KYOTO

KURAMA FIRE FESTIVAL鞍馬の火祭りOct 22 • Yuki ShrineIn this ancient ceremony, which first began as a ritual to greet the arrival of the deity of Yuki Shrine, families light bonfires and the flaming torches are carried in a procession. Kurama is located in the mountainous area of northern Kyoto City. At 6pm, large flaming torches are lit in front of neighborhood homes. As children parade with smaller torches, men carry the larger torches that weigh up to about 80 kilograms and require more than two people to carry. The ceremony officially ends the following day when the two portable shrines are returned to Yuki-jinja.TIME: 6pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS:

Eizan Densha line, Kurama Stn • yukijinjya.jp/himaturi.html

KYOTO

FESTIVAL OF THE AGES時代祭Oct 26 • Heian Shrine, KyotoThe colorful, costume-filled Jidai Matsuri is one of Kyoto’s three largest festivals. It celebrates the city’s long history and

fascinating traditional culture. The highlight of the day is the Jidai Gyoretsu (Historic Pageant) that follows a mikoshi (portable shrine) and an assembly of 2,000 costume-clad paraders wearing clothes representing various eras of Kyoto’s 1,200-year history. The parade starts at noon from Kyoto Gosho (Kyoto Imperial Palace) and proceeds for 4.6 kilometers along Oike Street and Sanjo Street, arriving finally at Heian Jingu at around 2:30pm. There are plenty of photo opportunities for spectators as the line of parading people stretches over such a long distance that it takes more than an hour for the entire procession to pass one spot. This festival is an excellent chance to get a close look at traditional costumes and accessories of the people of Kyoto throughout the ages.TIME: 12 Noon (Imperial Palace) (postponed in case of rain) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kyoto  Subway Karasuma line, Marutamachi Stn (Imperial Palace); Kyoto Subway Tozai line, Higashiyama Stn, 15-min walk (Heian Shrine) • heianjingu.or.jp

KYOTO

TENGU GOBLIN FEST天狗の宴

Nov 10 • Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, KyotoEvery year when the fall leaves turn, the magical Japanese creature called the tengu comes down from Mt. Atago to Otagi Nenbutsuji, and a ritual to ward off evil spirits is performed. Shooting arrows in the air and loudly beating wooden clappers, five tengu—one blue-faced, one gold-faced, others multicolored—work vigorously to scare away the evil spirits. There will be a taiko drumming performance given by children before the ritual begins. There are also 1,200 Buddhist stone statues to see in this temple. TIME: 1pm–2:30pm • ADMISSION:

¥300 adults, concessions • ACCESS:

JR Saga Arashiyama Stn, bus to Otagidera-mae • otagiji.com

HYOGO

NISHINOMIYA FESTIVAL例祭 西宮まつりSep 21–23 • Nishinomiya Shrine & SurroundingsA three-day celebration with a variety of rituals, ceremonies, and live performances, this event started in 2000 to honor the restoration of the city after the Great Hanshin Earthquake. On the

OSAKA

SAKAI FESTIVAL堺まつりOct 19–20 • Sakai Stn & SurroundingsHeld annually since 1974, this festival has become one of the three biggest festivals of Sakai City. There is a pre-parade event on the 19th, and on the 20th, the 7000-strong Grand Parade transforms the streets into a colorful celebration with folk costumes from around the world, folk dances, bicycle and unicycle shows, matchlock gun salutes, and more. On both days, a large-scale tea ceremony takes place where visitors can casually experience the world of Japanese tea at an outdoor venue or in a tatami room. Local Sakai souvenirs will be on sale at the Nambanichi Market happening alongside the festival.TIME: 4:15pm–9pm Oct 19; 10am–5pm Oct 20 • ADMISSION:

Free • ACCESS: Nankai line, Sakai Stn; Nankai Koya line, Sakaihigashi Stn • sakai-tcb.or.jp/s-matsuri

KYOTO

SHINSENEN KYOGEN神泉苑狂言Nov 1–3 • Shinsenen Temple, KyotoIn this classic Japanese performance art, masked actors entertain the audience with their animated gestures. Wearing colorful costumes and accompanied by temple bells, flutes, and taiko drums, the actors perform at the historic Shinsenen temple. Kyogen, literally meaning “mad words,” is a traditional comedy that teaches Buddhist beliefs through comic stories. Unlike more widespread kyogen styles, all the actors wear masks and play without dialog in Shinsenen Kyogen. TIME: 6:30pm–9:30pm Nov 1; 1pm–5:30pm & 6:30pm–9:30pm Nov 2 & 3 • ADMISSION: Donations appreciated • ACCESS: Kyoto Subway Tozai line, Nijojo-mae Stn, 2-min walk • shinsenen.org

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What’s On CulturalSee Kansaifinder.com for more

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21st, traditional dance performances and taiko drumming will take place. The following day, there will be a children’s procession at 3pm, and on the 23rd, a portable-shrine parade in the streets and a boat parade on the ocean will be held at Nishinomiya’s yacht harbor.TIME: 5pm Sep 21; 10am Sep 22 & 23 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Hanshin line, Nishinomiya Stn, South Exit, 7-min walk • nishinomiya-ebisu.com/index.html

KYOTO

CHINESE MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL第22回 中秋節Sep 13–16 • Kobe Nankin-machiChinatown Kobe comes to life for the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival, also known as the Mooncake Festival. Join the festivities held at Nankin-machi, celebrating a time when the moon is at its fullest and brightest. Enjoy the atmosphere among the red and gold lanterns, have your fill of authentic Chinese cuisine, and be entertained by the plethora of cultural performances. Special culinary dishes unique to this event are served on the

13th for bargain prices. On the 14th and 15th, traditional music, martial arts, a lion dance, and a dragon dance will be performed. Nankin-machi’s very own mooncakes will be available for purchase throughout the four-day event.TIME: 5pm–8pm Sep 13; From 11am Sep 14–16 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS:

JR / Hanshin line, Motomachi Stn, 5-min walk • nankinmachi.or.jp

Shiga

SHIGA

HACHIMANBORI LANTERN FESTIVAL八幡堀まつり~町並みと灯り~Oct 12 • Omi HachimanThe historic town of Hachimanbori is famous for its picturesque canals, which will be illuminated with thousands of lanterns during this festival. Approximately 3,500 lanterns that use a combination of candles and LED lights will light up the streets and create an ambient atmosphere. Traditional houses around the neighborhood will be converted to live music

venues, art galleries, markets, and cafes and will be open to the public free of charge.TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Omihachiman Stn, bus to Osugi-cho • omi8.com

SHIGA

OTSU FESTIVAL大津祭Oct 12–13 • Tenson Shrine & SurroundingsThirteen magnificent hikiyama floats host performances of karakuri ningyo—Japanese mechanical puppets. Often described as ‘moving museums,’ the richly decorated hikiyama, with their valuable fabric, golden carvings, and lacquerworks, are alone worth coming to see. On the 12th, the neighborhood is adorned with lanterns which are lit after dark. Locals gather to appreciate the floats as local groups play festival music. The next day, the parade starts from 9am in front of Tenson Shrine and tours the neighborhood over the course of the day.TIME: 6pm to 9pm Oct 12; 9am–5:30pm Oct 13 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Otsu Stn, 3-min walk • otsu-matsuri.jp/home

NARA

TAKATORI CASTLE SAMURAI FESTIVAL第31回たかとり城まつりNov 23 • Takatori Tosamachinami and Surroundings, NaraThis annual spectacle celebrates the history of the town and its castle. Today only the ruins of the fortress remain, but it was once reputed to be one of the three best mountain-top castles in Japan. The town will be covered in autumnal foliage, and a number of samurai-period attractions will be put on for visitors. There will be a matchlock gun demonstration, sword-drawing practice, and swordplay demonstrations. A samurai parade with armour-clad warriors and ladies in traditional costumes will move through the neighborhood. There will be traditional dance performances and a market.TIME: 10am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Tsubosakayama Stn, 10-min walk • sightseeing.takatori.info

HYOGO

HIMEJI CASTLE – NIGHT FANTASIES姫路城・ナイトファンタジア おとぎ幻影伝 Nov 9–30 • Himeji CastleEnjoy a fabulous display of traditional and modern artworks at Himeji Castle. In the evening, the castle grounds will be illuminated with beautiful lighting and guests can enjoy a projection-mapping performance that narrates the historical background of the castle. This year an arts collective that combines video, sound and light, and an artist group that creates works solely using disco mirror balls will participate in the production.TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 adults, concessions • ACCESS: JR Himeji Stn, 20-min walk • himejijo-otogigeneiden-2019.com

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What’s On Cultural

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SHIGA

MAIBARA HIKIYAMA FESTIVAL米原曳山まつりOct 12–14 • Yutani Shrine, ShigaExquisitely decorated hikiyama floats built around the 18th century are paraded around the town with children performing kabuki plays on them. The floats move from Maibara station to Yutani Shrine on the 12th and the kabuki and kyogen performances take place on the 13th and 14th.TIME: 12:30pm–8:30pm Oct 12; 8:30am–8:30pm Oct 13; 12:30pm–7pm Oct 14 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Maibara Stn • biwa.ne.jp/~hozonkai/index.htm

SHIGA

KUSATSU ILLUMINATION STREET草津街あかり・華あかり・夢あかりNov 1–2 • JR Kusatsu Station & SurroundingsHandmade lights will shed a soft glow on the historic streets surrounding Kusatsu Station. At multiple locations, lights created by local school children and light installations designed by young artists will be on display. Local landmarks such as the Kusatsu Inn Headquarters and Jozenji Temple will also be lit up, and the shopping arcades will trade their regular electric lights to handmade lanterns.

TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS:

JR Kusatsu Stn, 5-min walk • kusatsu-machiakari.net

NARA

UNEME MATSURI – LADIES OF IMPERIAL COURT FESTIVAL采女祭りSep 13 • Sarusawa Pond, NaraA colorful water pageant takes place at the scenic Sarusawa Pond in Nara. This elegant boating parade featured participants dressed as ancient courtesans admiring the moon at its fullest and brightest. Legend has it that an uneme (a lady of the imperial court) threw herself into this pond in despair after falling out of favor with the Emperor. This event also takes place to comfort the spirit of the uneme. There will be an elaborate parade of people dressed in 8th-century attire from JR Nara Station through Sanjo-dori to the pond, followed by a religious ceremony and then the boating event.TIME: 5pm-8:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Line, Nara Stn • narashikanko.or.jp/event/unemematsuri

NARA

CORRIDOR OF LIGHT & RED SPIDER LILY FESTIVAL IN ASUKA飛鳥光の回廊・彼岸花祭Sep 21–22 • Asuka Village, NaraWith the striking red spider lilies in full bloom, now is the perfect time to visit Asuka Village during the annual Red Spider Lily Festival and Corridor of Light illumination event. The two events will be held on the same days this year, so come for the brilliant red of the exotic flowers during the day, and stay for the gentle illuminations that light up the historic town at night. Palace sites, tumuli burial mounds, and old temples scattered around the village will be illuminated with lights, candles, and lanterns after sundown.TIME: Red Spider Lily Festival 10am–4pm; Corridor of Light 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Kashiharajingu-mae Stn & Asuka Stn • asukamura.com

SHIGA

JAPANESE EQUESTRIAN馬上武芸奉納祭Nov 30 • Kamo ShrineBoth rider and horse colorfully dressed in kimonos perform a variety of martial arts in this religious event at Kamo Shrine, a sacred place for horses. In the performances, a bow and arrow, naginata (a pole-shaped weapon), and flags are used. After the show, spectators can enjoy the outdoor market and a spoken-word performance on the shrine grounds.TIME: 10:30am • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Omihachiman Stn, bus to Kamohigashi • kamo-jinjya.or.jp

Looking for more Events?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

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What’s On CulturalSee Kansaifinder.com for more

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Osaka

Museums

THE MUSEUM OF ORIENTAL CERAMICS, OSAKARegarded as one of the best collections of ceramics in the world with over 7,000 items, this is a must-see museum for ceramic enthusiasts. It is located in leafy Nakanoshima next to the iconic Central Public Hall.///dealings.lifelong.mimics • 1-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6223-0055 • moco.or.jp

CUPNOODLES MUSEUMThis offbeat museum in Ikeda pays tribute to Momofuku Ando, the inventor of the instant noodle. Great for kids, there are fun, hands-on activities and, for only ¥300, you can design your own bespoke cup noodles (takes about 45 mins).///candles.shell.magic • 8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda • TEL: 072-752-3484 • cupnoodles-museum.jp

OSAKA SCIENCE MUSEUMThis educational museum on Nakanoshima Island boasts four floors of more than 200 interactive exhibits and displays designed to help children learn about chemistry, electricity, energy, and the universe. The planetarium’s main dome has a radius of almost 27 meters, making it the largest in Japan and the seventh-largest in the world.///owns.trusts.hostels • 4-2-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6444-5656 • sci-museum.jp

MUSEUM OF HOUSING AND LIVINGThis museum depicts everyday Osaka life as it was in the past, complete with a life-sized interactive recreation of an Edo-era neighborhood.///wipe.natural.spray • 6-4-20 Tenjinbashi, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6242-1170 • konjyakukan.com

Monuments and Landmarks

SUMIYOSHI SHRINEOsaka’s Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan. Founded in the 3rd century before Buddhism came to the country, it has a distinctive architectural style called Sumiyoshi-zukuri that is free of influence from mainland Asia.

///author.condiment.nozzle • 2-9-89 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi Ward • TEL: 06-6672-0753 • sumiyoshitaisha.net

OSAKA CASTLEIf it’s your first time to Osaka then you are duty-bound to visit this 400-year-old castle in the beautiful grounds of the expansive Osaka Castle Park. The small museum inside offers a thorough insight into its history.///surround.librarian.shins • 1-1 Osakajo, Chuo Ward • TEL: 06-6941-3044 • osakacastle.net

UMEDA SKY BUILDINGOne of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, the Floating Garden Observatory connecting its two towers offers 360-degree panoramic views.///fields.pining.rocked • 1-1-88 Oyodonaka, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6440-3900 • skybldg.co.jp

ABENO HARUKASJapan’s tallest skyscraper at 300m in height is home to an observatory, an art museum, and a hotel as well as a slew of restaurants and hundreds of shops.///handwriting.lobby.chefs • 1-1-43 Abenosuji, Abeno Ward • TEL: 06-6624-1111 • abenoharukas-300.jp

TSUTENKAKU TOWERTsutenkaku is one of Osaka’s most iconic landmarks presiding over the Shinsekai area near Tennoji. There are observation decks on the 4th and 5th floors, although at just 103m high, it is dwarfed by the nearby Abeno Harukas.///ants.seasons.these • 1-18-6 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward • TEL: 06-6641-9555 • tsutenkaku.co.jp

Attractions

OSAKA AQUARIUM KAIYUKANOne of the largest public aquariums in the world, visitors head to the eighth floor to start the tour and gradually spiral downward floor by floor around the central tank, which houses a whale shark. There are around 15 other tanks, each representing a specific region of the Pacific Rim.///deserved.gamer.shark • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 06-6576-5501 • kaiyukan.com

LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER OSAKA

A great place for the kids to let off steam and explore the excellent LEGO activities, small rides and 4D cinema that form this indoor LEGO playground. Save money on the entry fee with the Osaka Amazing Pass, which gets you into several of the city’s attractions, including Legoland, over a one- or two-day period.///paths.teachers.themes • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato Ward • TEL: 0800-100-5346 • legolanddiscoverycenter.jp

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPANGiant movie-themed amusement park with thrills and spills for all ages featuring characters from the Universal stable, including Harry Potter, Spiderman, and the Minions.///talents.humans.oils • 2-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana Ward • TEL: 0570-200-606 • usj.co.jp

SPA WORLDA giant hot-spring theme park with a huge choice of fanciful baths and spas in which to soak, as well as a large fun pool on its upper floors. Open 24 hrs.///sugars.stews.napped • 3-4-24 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward • TEL: 06-6631-0001 • spaworld.co.jp

SILVER BALL PLANETJapan’s mecca for pinball machines housing over 100 machines dating from the 1970s to the present day.///friends.teachers.tragedy • Big Step 3F, 1-6-14 Nishi-shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6258-5000 • silverballplanet.jp

KANSAI CYCLE SPORTS CENTERA bicycle-themed amusement park located in the hills south

MIE

IGA-RYU NINJA MUSEUMThe Iga region of Mie Prefecture is well-known for its ninja history and Iga’s ninja museum is the place to go for a comprehensive ninja experience. There’s a ninja residence, two exhibition halls, and a stage where ninja shows are performed. The ninja residence looks ordinary from the outside, but inside there are revolving walls, trap doors, and hidden compartments. Visitors are given a guided tour around the house with explanations about the various contraptions and also about the ninja way of life. There are ninja tools, costumes, and weapons on display in the exhibition halls, and you can experience the art of shuriken throwing in the museum yard.///common.deadline.hangs • 117 Uenomarunouchi, Iga • TEL: 0595-23-0311 • iganinja.jp

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Need extra help getting around? The What3words app identifies 3m x 3m squares across the planet with a unique three-word address. This navigation system is particularly useful in Japan where signs are hard to read (if you don’t speak Japanese) and sometimes your map app will take you to the vicinity of a shop, cafe, restaurant, temple, etc., but you don’t know exactly where the entrance is. The three words for a site are presented using three slashes: ///

To use: download the What3words app and enter the three words written down for a site (after this symbol: ///) into the app and the location will appear on your device. The system even works offline.

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com36

Sights & Attractions

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OSAKA

EXPO CITYLocated in Suita in the north of Osaka, Expo City is a multi-venue complex home to a state-of-the-art aquarium and animal sanctuary called Nifrel where you can see crocodiles, tigers, monkeys, and penguins as well as sea creatures like tropical fish. The Lalaport shopping center has entertainment, food, and shopping options galore, including the 109 Cinema, a hi-tech Imax theater where you can have 3D or even 4D immersive movie experiences involving smoke, water, and other realistic special effects. The nearby Redhorse Osaka Wheel soars 120 meters above Expo City, making it the tallest Ferris wheel in the country. Just a stone’s throw away, the renowned Bampaku Koen, also known as Expo ’70 Commemorative Park, is an expansive green area covering 60 hectares and is home to the very quirky-looking Tower of the Sun.///scores.played.pausing • 2-1 Senribanpakukoen, Suita • TEL: 06-6170-5590 • expocity-mf.com

of Osaka. With pedal-powered roller coasters, a cycle luge, swings, and a host of crazy bikes to try out, this is a fun day out for the whole family.///dislodge.blusher.officers • 1304 Amanocho, Kawachinagano • TEL: 0721-54-3101 • kcsc.or.jp

Kyoto

Museums

NIJO CASTLEThe UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nijo Castle encompasses several gardens and the beautifully preserved Ninomaru Palace whose lavishly decorated rooms feature ornate woodwork and stunning wall paintings.///party.lorry.withdraw • 541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL: 075-841-0096 • city.kyoto.jp

KYOTO RAILWAY MUSEUMThis 30,000-square-meter space features 53 engines ranging from the Japan’s oldest steam locomotive to more recent

shinkansen models. Kids will go crazy for the train simulators and interactive dioramas.///selects.costumes.moral • Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward • TEL: 0570-080-462 • kyotorailwaymuseum.jp

KYOTO MUSEUM OF MODERN ARTThe gallery houses a superb collection of both Japanese and Western modern art with some excellent temporary exhibitions and can be found across the road from the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art.///privately.shears.hotels • 26-1 Okazaki Enshojicho, Sakyo Ward • TEL: 075-761-4111 • momak.go.jp

KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUMThis is one of Japan’s oldest museums housing a permanent collection of Japanese artefacts, treasures, and artworks.///someone.piston.dots • 527 Chayacho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: 075-525-2473 • kyohaku.go.jp

KYOTO INTERNATIONAL MANGA MUSEUM

This massive collection of contemporary and historical manga, comics, and graphic novels housed in a former primary school is a huge hit with manga and comic buffs the world over.///dearest.tractor.between • 452 Kinbukicho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL: 075-254-7414 • kyotomm.jp

Attractions

GEARA long-running non-verbal theater show that continues to delight all ages. It mixes mime, dancing, magic, juggling, and contemporary special effects.///awake.smaller.handwriting • 1928 Blg. 3F, 56 Benkeiishi-cho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL:

075-254-6520 • gear.ac

TOEI KYOTO STUDIO PARKThere’s lots of fun to be had at this old Edo-themed movie park with a brilliant ninja show, staged samurai fights, and the chance to dress up as you wander the faux Edo-era streets.///seasons.zealous.maternal • 10 Uzumasa Higashihachioka-cho, Ukyo Ward • TEL:

075-864-7716 • toei-eigamura.com

KYOTO AQUARIUMA modern aquarium in Umekoji Park with aquatic creatures presented across 12 different themed areas. Great for a rainy-day activity or for families with young children.///soldiers.grants.alright • 35-1 Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward • TEL: 075-354-3130 • kyoto-aquarium.com

Nara

Museums

NARA NATIONAL MUSEUMExpanding over four buildings with wheelchair access, this museum holds treasures from the Nara period (710 to 784 AD) plus Buddhist and decorative art from around Japan with explanations in English.///officers.sweetly.actor • 50 Noborioji-cho, Nara City • TEL: 050-5542-8600 • narahaku.go.jp/english/index_e.html

NARA PREFECTURAL MUSEUM OF ARTNara’s main art museum has an extensive collection of Japanese art with a focus on the Edo and Meiji eras. Exhibitions rotate every two to three months and

explanations of most pieces are in English. There is a good museum shop and regular free workshops and activities for families. Free for seniors and for foreigners with ID.///export.hairpin.pound • 10-6 Noboriojicho, Nara City • TEL: 0742-23-3968 • pref.nara.jp/11842.htm

Monuments and Landmarks

NARA PARKA huge ancient park and the focal point for any visit to Nara. Droves of wild deer will follow you around as you explore the park’s stunning temples, gardens, and museums, hoping you may feed them special deer crackers.///rinses.safest.select • TEL: 0742-22-0375 • nara-park.com

TODAI-JIThis temple with its 15m-high Buddha is the most prestigious of Nara’s seven great temples and draws a steady stream of visitors.///lighten.cult.self • 406-1 Zoshicho, Nara • 0742-22-5511 • todaiji.or.jp

KASUGA SHRINEAn ancient Shinto shrine famous for its stunning vermillion-colored columns, it is approached along an atmospheric forest path lined with hundreds of stone lanterns.///announce.mascots.prove • 160 Kasuganocho, Nara • TEL: 0742-22-7788 • kasugataisha.or.jp

Hyogo

Museums

KOBE FASHION MUSEUMSituated on Rokko Island, this is Japan’s first museum dedicated to the world of fashion. It houses a large public library on its 3rd floor.///beeline.betrayal.marked • 2-9-1 Koyochonaka, Higashinada Ward • TEL:

078-858-0050 • fashionmuseum.or.jp

KOBE ANPANMAN CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & MALLGreat for young kids, this is a fun museum and play area in Kobe’s Harborland district, dedicated to the surreal world of popular Japanese children’s character Anpanman.///develops.mixer.credited • 1-6-2 Higashikawasaki-cho, Chuo Ward • TEL:

078-341-8855 • kobe-anpanman.jp

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OSAKA

FLOWER GARDEN OF ART NOUVEAU: MUCHA AND LALIQUESakai Alphonse Mucha Museum • Until Oct 14In celebration of the artist who inspired the Sakai museum’s name, this exhibition commemorates the 80th anniversary of the death of Alphonse Mucha (1860–1939), one of the most influential figures of the Art Nouveau movement that captivated France—and the world—in the late 19th century. The Czech painter rose to fame by creating stylized theatrical posters for French actress Sarah Bernhardt while living in Paris. The exhibition features approximately 130 artworks focusing on Mucha’s designs featuring flowers and plants. Also included are pieces of jewelry and glass art by Mucha’s contemporary, René Lalique (1860–1945). This special exhibition is jointly held by the Sakai Alphonse Mucha Museum and the Lalique Museum Hakone.OPEN: 9:30am–5:15pm (last admission 4:30pm) • ADMISSION: • ACCESS: 3-min walk from JR Sakaishi Station • TEL: 072-222-5533 • mucha.sakai-bunshin.com

KYOTO

DRESS CODE: ARE YOU PLAYING FASHION?MoMAK • Until Oct 14Focusing on why we wear the clothes we do, “Are You Playing Fashion?” presents our daily fashion choices as a game of dress-up. By probing into what influences the clothes that cover our bodies and fill our closets, this exhibition reveals how fashion is based on one’s locale, beliefs, and circumstances. Examples of contemporary fashion, clothing depicted in film and manga, and items from high-end brands are showcased alongside one another in a manner both playful and thought-provoking. Actual clothing items, as well as photographs depicting looks from recent decades, are on display. From labels like Chanel and Comme des Garçons to artists like Ishiuchi Miyako and Hans Eijkelboom, there is something for everyone at this flashy and tongue-in-cheek exposition.9:30am–5pm, Fri & Sat until 9pm (admission until 30 mins before closing); closed Mondays (except Sep 16 & 23 and Oct 14; closed following Tue instead) • ADMISSION:

¥1,300 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Higashiyama Station • TEL:

075-761-4111 • kci.or.jp/special/exhibitions2019/en

KYOTO

THE THIRTY-SIX IMMORTAL POETS: ELEGANT ARTS OF THE CLASSICAL JAPANESE COURTKyoto National Museum • Oct 11 to Nov 23One hundred years ago, in the year 1919, news went viral concerning a set of precious 13th-century handscrolls known as Thirty-Six Immortal Poets, Satake Version. A group of wealthy connoisseurs had acquired the painted scrolls, once owned by the prominent Satake family, and were considered one of the nation’s most valuable artistic treasures. The connoisseurs intended to split up the collection and horde it amongst themselves. To possess one of these priceless fragments came to be regarded as a status symbol, yet their whereabouts often remained unknown even to experts. Today, these paintings have been reunited in their most comprehensive and public form in a century for all to enjoy.OPEN: 9:30am–6pm, Fri & Sat until 8pm (admission until 30 mins before closing); closed Mondays (except Oct 14 & Nov 4; closed following Tue instead) • ADMISSION: ¥1,600 • ACCESS:

7-min walk from Shichijo Station • TEL: 075-525-2473 • kyohaku.go.jp/eng/special

WAKAYAMA

MAEKAWA SENPANThe Museum of Modern Art, Wakayama • Sep 9 to Oct 1In commemoration of the 130th birthday of print artist and cartoonist Maekawa Sempan (1889–1960), MOMAW will display illustrations by the beloved Kyoto-born artist. Originally named Ishida Shigezaburo, Sempan studied Western art at Kansai Bijutsuin before moving to Tokyo to become a journalist and cartoonist for the Yomiuri Shimbun. He rose to fame for his creation of a character known as “Hasty Bear” as well as for his skill as a print artist. Known for his rustic style and the ability to convey the warmth of his subjects, Sempan traveled the country sketching the people and places he came across. About 70 of his works as well as related materials will be showcased at this exhibition. OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (admission until 30 minutes before closing); closed Mondays (except Sep 16 & 23 and Oct 14; closed the following Tue instead) • ADMISSION: ¥340 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from JR Wakayama Station • TEL:

073-436-8690 • momaw.jp/exhibit/after/post-162.php

KYOTO

THE ROOTS OF SHOJO MANGA? EARLY 20TH CENTURY PARISIAN ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINESKyoto International Manga Museum • Until Nov (TBD)Curated by Aramata Hiroshi, the executive director of the museum, the purpose of this mini-exhibition is to “trace the forgotten ancestors of manga” to uncover its contemporary roots. “The Roots of Shojo Manga?” is the fifth installment of this eye-opening investigative series. Featuring illustrated Parisian magazines dating to the early 20th century from Aramata’s own collection, visitors can glimpse how these periodicals influenced the romantic shojo manga (comics for young girls) of Japan’s Taisho period (1912–1926) and beyond. Drawings based on the fashionably beguiling women of turn-of-the-century Paris are showcased, including illustrations by Gerda Wegener, on whose life the recent film The Danish Girl was based.OPEN: 10am–6pm (admission until 5:30pm); CLOSED: Every Wed & Sep 10th • ADMISSION: ¥800 • ACCESS: 2-min walk from Karasuma Oike Station • TEL: 075-254-7414 • kyotomm.jp/en/event/exh_early20thcenturyparisianmagazines/

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com38

What’s On Art & Exhibitions

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OSAKA

THE DORAEMON EXHIBITION OSAKA 2019Osaka Cultural Center • Until Sep 23Children and anime fans alike will delight in this explosion of psychedelic color and childhood nostalgia. This exhibition goes beyond the beloved anime character, however — the 2019 Doraemon Exhibition is a celebration of contemporary Japanese art. A selection of 28 artists representing Japan comes together to showcase genre-defying works capturing the whimsical spirit of the 1970s-era animated character. Doraemon is the star of a fantastical manga and TV series of the same name and a Japanese cultural icon. All the artists featured in this exhibition grew up influenced by the loveable time-traveling robo cat, as is evident in their playful but thought-provoking pieces ranging from photography to installation.OPEN: 10am–5pm (last admission 4:30pm) every day • ADMISSION:

¥1,500 • ACCESS: 7-min walk from Osakako Station (next to aquarium) • TEL: 06-6586-3911 • thedoraemon tentokyo2017.jp/osaka.html

KYOTO

LEGENDARY KYOTO PAINTING FROM MARUYAMA OKYO TO THE MODERN ERAMOMAK • Nov 01 to Dec 14Maruyama Okyo is a renowned artist whose work characterized 18th-century Kyoto. Known for pioneering a realistic ink painting technique based on scenes from daily life, this new genre became known as the Maruyama school. A contemporary named Goshun founded the Shijo school, a style that fused Maruyama’s realism and the stylized strokes of painter-poet Yosa Buson. Together, Maruyama and Goshun created the Maruyama-Shijo school which focused on both authenticity and spirituality. Chronicling artistic techniques from Maruyama and Goshun’s time to the modern era, Legendary Kyoto Painting seeks to provide insight into various aspects of Kyoto art..OPEN: Regular hours: 9:30am–5pm *Fri and Sat 9:30am–8pm (Admission until 30 mins before closing) • CLOSED: Mondays except Nov 4th (closed Tue Nov 5th instead) • ADMISSION: ¥500 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Higashiyama Station • TEL: 075-761-4111 • https://okyokindai2019.exhibit.jp/

OSAKA

VIENNA ON THE PATH TO MODERNISM: THE 150TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE ESTABLISHMENT OF DIPLOMATIC RELATIONS BETWEEN JAPAN AND AUSTRIAThe National Museum of Art, Osaka • Until Dec 7Vienna on the Path to Modernism focuses on the Austrian city’s fin-de-siècle (“turn of the century”) art scene. The years surrounding 1900 were a time of significant change for the European city—tradition converged with innovation, making the period rife with both anxiety and creativity. Tracing Viennese art through the Enlightenment, Biedermeier, Ringstrasse, and fin-de-siècle periods (circa 1780–1920), works from artists like Rudolf von Alt to Gustav Klimt are included. The artworks span generations and genres, but all reveal how the region changed at the turn of the last century. This exhibition coincides with the 150th anniversary of the date Japan and Austria established diplomatic relations and features approximately 300 items from Vienna’s Wien Museum.OPEN: 10am–5pm; Fri & Sat until 9pm (in Sep) and until 8pm Oct to Dec (admission until 30 mins before closing); closed Mondays (except Sept 16 & 23, Oct 14 and Nov 4; closed following Tue instead) • ADMISSION: ¥1,600 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Watanabebashi Station • TEL:

06-6447-4680 • nmao.go.jp/en/exhibition/2019/klimt_en.html

OSAKA

MARY AINSWORTH UKIYO-E COLLECTIONOsaka City Museum of Fine Arts • Until Sep 29Witness a world-class collection of ukiyo-e art prints at the Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts. Returning to Japan for the first time in over 100 years, the collection—which belongs to the Allen Memorial Art Museum in Oberlin, Ohio in the U.S.—features illustrated works of natural and everyday scenes delicately drawn and pristinely preserved. Born in 1867, Mary Ainsworth was one of the earliest American collectors of ukiyo-e art and one of the only women. Her pioneering efforts yielded a collection of more than 1,500 precious prints. Approximately 200 of these will be on display, including works by famed ukiyo-e masters Katsushika Hokusai (known for The Great Wave) and Utagawa Hiroshige.OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4:30pm) • ADMISSION: ¥1,400 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Tennoji Station • TEL: 06-6771-4874 • osaka-art-museum.jp/sp_evt/mary-ainsworth

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グスタフ・クリムト 《パラス・アテナ》 1898年 油彩/カンヴァス 75 x 75 cm ウィーン・ミュージアム蔵 ©Wien Museum / Foto Peter Kainz

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 39

What’s On Art & ExhibitionsSee Kansaifinder.com for more

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What’s On Live Music

Rock & Pop

HOLY GRAILSep 6US metal band formed 2008Metal • Hokage,Osaka• 7pm • TBA • Tel: 06-6211-2855

KODA KUMISep 9–10 & Sep 12–14Japanese pop vocalistPop • Orix Theater, Osaka • 7pm • TBA • Tel: 06-6341-3525

MISAKO UNOSep 16Japanese pop vocalistPop • Grand Cube, Osaka • 6pm • ¥7,800 • Tel: 0570-200-888

FEEDERSep 17UK rock band featuring Grant Nicholas and Taka HiroseRock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7:30pm • ¥7,000 • Tel: 06-6535-5569

MISIASep 18Japanese pop, R&B and soul vocalistPop • Zepp, Osaka • 7pm • ¥8,640 • Tel: 0570-200-888

LITTLE GLEE MONSTERSep 18Japanese pop vocalist

Pop • Osaka Festival Hall, Osaka • 6:30pm • ¥7,506 • Tel: 0570-200-888

THE ROYAL CONCEPTSep 19Swedish rock band formed 2010Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥6,500 • Tel: 06-6311-8111

KILL LINCOLNSep 20American ska-punk bandSka Punk • Bronze, Osaka • TBA • TBA • 06-6282-7129

ALDIOUSSep 21Japanese melodic metalMetal • Muse, Kyoto • 6pm • ¥4,500 / ¥5,000 • 075-223-0389

KAMIJOSep 21–22Japanese visual-kei rock bandRock • Muse, Osaka • 21st - 6pm / 22nd - 4pm • TBA • 06-6245-5389

SUPERFLYSep 28–29Japanese pop vocalistPop • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • 28th - 4:30pm / 29th - 3:30pm • ¥7,700 / ¥8,800 • 0570-200-888

BACKYARD BABIESSep 30Swedish heavy-rock band formed 1989

Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥8,000 • 06-6311-8111

VELVET CRUSHOct 1American power-pop trioPop-rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,800 / ¥8,300 • 06-6311-8111

ONE OK ROCKOct 1–2Four-piece band from Tokyo formed 2005Pop rock • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,500 • 06-6341-3525

CARNATIONOct 5Belgian death metal bandMetal • Namba Bears, Osaka • 7:30pm • TBA • 06-6649-5564

HOT CHIPOct 9British electro-pop bandElectro Pop • Big Cat, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,000 • 06-6535-5569

BACKSTREET BOYSOct 16American pop vocal groupPop • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • 7pm • ¥9,500 / ¥18,000 • 0570-200-888

KENNY ‘BABYFACE’ EDMUNDSOct 16–18US singer, musician and producer

OSAKA

FEEDERSep 17You could be forgiven for thinking that Feeder’s start in the music industry is the stuff of dreams: Band sends a demo tape to a record label in 1994, label likes it, attends a live concert and quickly signs the group for a record deal. But as we know, there’s no such thing as overnight success. The band’s roots were established in 1987 when frontman guitarist Grant Nicholas met drummer Jon Lee and formed a group named Temper Temper, which would become Raindancer, Real, and then finally Feeder after recruiting bassist Taka Hirose. Tragically, drummer Jon Lee took his own life in 2002, but after some time, the band continued with

Skunk Anansie drummer Michael Richardson. Jump to the present, now with Karl Brazil on drums, and this year Feeder released their tenth studio album, Tallulah. UK newspaper The Guardian described the album as “a tour of noughties guitar music that time, or at least the zeitgeist, forgot...Nicholas and Hirose play to their strengths: unabashedly unfashionable guitar anthems with melodic middle-of-the-road flourishes.” Feeder has built an almost cult-like following in Japan so get your tickets early for this gig!Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7:30pm • ¥7,000 • TEL: 06-6535-5569

OSAKA

HOT CHIPOct 9Hot Chip is an English synth-pop band formed in London in 2000. The group consists of multi-instrumentalists Alexis Taylor, Joe Goddard, Al Doyle, Owen Clarke, and Felix Martin. Primarily producing music in the synth-pop and alternative dance genres while drawing influences from house and disco, the band initially began as a simple hobby recording project between school friends Taylor and Goddard. Their debut studio album through Moshi Moshi Records (named after the Japanese word for “hello” when answering the telephone) was 2004’s Coming On Strong, which received mixed reviews. This year, Hot Chip released a seventh studio album A Bath Full of Ecstasy. Songwriters Goddard and Taylor began writing the album in 2017 while contributing to songs for Katy Perry. One song Into Me You See went onto Perry’s album Witness, while two others—Spell and Echo—were re-worked for A Bath Full of Ecstasy.Electro-pop • Big Cat, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,000 • TEL: 06-6535-5569

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 41

What’s On Live MusicSee Kansaifinder.com for more

R&B • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥17,000 / ¥18,000 • 06-6342-7722

QUEENESSOct 26Japanese Queen tribute bandRock • Live Spot Rag, Kyoto • 7:30pm • ¥3,440 / ¥4,300 • 075-241-2022

SYRUP16GOct 25–26Japanese rock band from Tokyo formed 2008Rock • Big Cat, Osaka • 25th-7:30pm / 26th - 5:30pm • ¥4,800 • 0570-200-888

FIFTH DIMENSIONOct 28Australian punk-rock trioRock • Hokage, Osaka • TBA • TBA • 06-6211-2855

DRAGON ASHOct 29

Japanese rock-rap bandRock • Chicken George, Kobe • 7pm • ¥6,000 • 078-332-0146

THE MUGGLESEvery Fri & SatMellow ballads, classic rock, and rock n roll from Osaka-based jamming bandGroup Sounds • Woodstock Cafe, Ashiya • 7pm • Free (¥2,000 for 2 drinks+snack) • 079-734-1044

Jazz & World

JOSHUA BREAKSTONE TRIOSep 6US jazz guitaristJazz • Bonds Rosary, Kyoto • 7:30pm • ¥2,900 • 075-285-2859

THE MANHATTAN TRANSFER

Sep 17–18US jazz vocal group formed 1969Jazz • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥10,800 / ¥11,800 • 06-6342-7722

MARSHALL MCDONALDSep 20Jazz-funk saxophonistJazz • Bonds Rosary, Kyoto • 7:30pm • ¥3,000 • 075-285-2859

MEGUREESep 26Japanese accordian duoJazz Pops • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 7:30pm / 9pm • ¥3,500 / ¥4,000 • 06-6342-5821

BRIAN JACKSONSep 28The music of Gill Scott Heron & Brian JacksonJazz • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥8,800 / ¥9,800 • 06-6342-7722

AYAKO ISHIKAWAOct 1Japanese classic and contemporary violinistClassic • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥5,500 / ¥6,500 • 06-6342-7722

GAIA CUATROOct 2Japanese-Argentinian jazz four-pieceJazz • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 7pm/9pm • ¥4,000 / ¥6,000 • 06-6342-5821

KURT ROSENWINKELOct 16–17Jazz guitarist with CAIPI ft. Pedro MartinsJazz • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:15pm • ¥8,000 / ¥8,500 • 06-6342-5821

OSAKA

THE ROYAL CONCEPTSep 19The Royal Concept came together in 2012 in Stockholm, Sweden. They released their debut album Goldrushed in 2013, followed by the 2015 Smile before disbanding. Coming back together in 2018 to work on new music, they had intended this year’s album The Man Without Qualities to be their last. But after switching labels, they got a second wind and decided to continue by booking live dates in Europe and Asia. Online music review magazine Dancing About Architecture described the new album as

“more mature than the band’s previous releases, with a little bit of carryover but with more climaxes and emotion as well as showing more of a psychadelic side of their sound.” As well as their albums, The Royal Concept has also enjoyed success with their music being used in a number of computer games and television shows.Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥6,500 • TEL: 06-6311-8111

OSAKA

KURT ROSENWINKELOct 16 & 17American jazz musician and Berklee College of Music student Kurt Rosenwinkel signed to Verve in 1995 after winning the Composer’s Award from the National Endowment for the Arts. He released his solo album East Coast Love Affair the following year. Citing influences including John Coltrane, Pat Metheny, Allan Holdsworth, Tal Farlow, George Van Eps, Bill Frisell, John Scofield, and Alex Lifeson (RUSH), Rosenwinkel brings his CAIPI project (the title of his 2017 album) to Japan along with Brazilian guitar prodigy (Montreux Guitar Competition winner 2015) Pedro Martins. Martins is a multi-instrumentalist, singer and composer who has left his very own mark on Rosenwinkel’s Caipi project, live as well as in the studio, and has also recorded his own work on the well-received album VOX. A gig for music lovers in general, this is a golden opportunity to see two of the top guitarists in the genre.Jazz • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:15pm • ¥8,000 / ¥8,500 • TEL: 06-6342-5821

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com42

What’s On Clubs & Nightlife

Sep

NARA

Sep 7 & 8

ADVENTURE LANDBon Disco 2019 (Techno/House/Breaks)ACTS: Cesare, Boiler, Naluu, Takahiro Oishi, Robert, Hanai, Dasakura + more • OPEN: 7th 12pm; 8th 3pm • ADMISSION:

¥3,500/1D • ACCESS: Nosegawa mura, 2 hours from Osaka By Car • TEL: 072-986-7777 • adventureland.jp

OSAKA

Sep 7

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEEn:Core (Hip Hop/OpenFormat)DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

KYOTO

Sep 7

OCTAVEParallel World presents Creative Psyenergy (Psychedelic Trance)DJS: Akinao & Yoshito, Gacky, Junny, T.k.o + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,600/1D • ACCESS:

Keihan Sanjo Stn • TEL: 06-6214-1223 • octavekyoto.space

OSAKA

Sep 7

SOUTH SWELL CAFECity Boy Lounge feat. Chaos in the CBD (House)DJS: Chaos in the Cbd, CityBoy Lounge Residents DJs • OPEN:

7pm–11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000 • ACCESS: Awaza Subway Stn • TEL:

06-6535-8852 • FACEBOOK: South Swell Cafe

KYOTO

Sep 7

WEST HARLEMSyn-c: The Last Dance (House/Techno)DJS: Torei, Toshiki, Sota, Ryo + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:

¥2,000/1D (Under 23 Year Old:¥1,000/1D) • ACCESS: Hankyu Kawaramachi Stn, Keihan shijo Stn • TEL: 050-1016-0099 • FACEBOOK: westharlem

OSAKA

Sep 8

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEWay Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:

MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS:

Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:

06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

KYOTO

Sep 8

METROLow Power (Techno/Electronic)ACTS: Ken’ichi Itoi, Ichion, Ceeestee + more • OPEN:

5pm–10:30pm • ADMISSION:

¥2,500/1D • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

OSAKA

Sep 13

CIRCUSMonza (Techno)DJS: Aoki Takamasa, Kohei + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

KYOTO

Sep 13

DNA PARADISEAquialia (Deep House)DJS: Mitsuki, Urame, Werikyo, Koz + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:

¥1,000 • ACCESS: Keihan Sanjo Stn • TEL: 06-6214-1223 • dnaparadise.space

OSAKA

Sep 13

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGELoyal (Open Format)DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:

MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women

& FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS:

Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:

06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

KYOTO

Sep 13

METRODo it Jazz! x Dego (Jazz/Crossover/House)ACTS: Dego, Masaki Tamura, Yukari Bb, Sota, Kazuhiro Inoue + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV:

¥2,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

OSAKA

Sep 14

CIRCUSHidden Spheres Japan Tour Osaka (House)DJS: Hidden Spheres, Mightwhales, Akemi HIno + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION:

¥2,500 (ADV:¥2,000) • ACCESS:

Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:

06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 14

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEEn:Core (Hip Hop/OpenFormat)DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 15

CIRCUSSee You At (House)DJS: Luigi Madonna, Yashima, Nao Nomura, Seiiichi Takamatsu + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION:

¥2,500 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 15

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEWay Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:

MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS:

Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:

06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

KYOTO

Sep 15

METROBarrio Lindo Japan Tour 2019 supported by Kiki Kaikai (Tribal/Techno/House)ACTS: Barrio Lindo, Mamezuka, Chari, Tamai-I + more • OPEN:

11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV:

¥2,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

KYOTO

Sep 15

WEST HARLEMCafe La Siesta 18th Anniversary (Chiptune/Electronic/Breakcore )DJS: Cycheouts G, Soichi Terada, Ally Nobs, + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • ACCESS:

Hankyu Kawaramachi Stn, Keihan shijo Stn • TEL: 050-1016-0099 • FACEBOOK: westharlem

OSAKA

Sep 16

CIRCUSPrins Thomas Japan Tour 2019 ~happy Monday Special!~ (House)DJS: Prins Thomas, Ageishi, Yama + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION:

TODD TERJEOSAKA

Sep 27

UMEDA CLUB QUATTRO

CLUB QUATTRO PRESENTS “NIGHT FOUNTAIN” TODD TERJE JAPAN TOUR 2019 (HOUSE/DISCO)Todd Terje is one of the most well-known DJs to come out of Norway. Best known for his 2012 house track Inspector Norse, he was listed number 17 on the list of “the 25 DJs that rule the earth” by Rolling Stone magazine. He released his first album It’s Album Time in 2014, which went on to be listed as one of “the 100 best albums of the decade so far” by Pitchfork. He has had considerable success outside of electronic music including co-writing the song Candy with Robbie Williams, which reached number one on the UK charts. His most recent work includes covers of the disco artists who shaped his sound.DJS: Todd Terje + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,600/1D ADV: ¥3,600/1D • ACCESS:

Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6311-8111 • club-quattro.com

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 43

What’s On Clubs & NightlifeSee Kansaifinder.com for more

¥2,500 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 16

PICCADILLY UMEDAPremium Live in Club Piccadilly - Nitro Microphone Underground- (Hip Hop)LIVE: Nitro Microphone Underground, Jaggra, No Name’s DJS: Hajime, B=Ball, Takumi + more • OPEN: 5pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥5,000/1D(ADV:

¥4,000/1D) • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly.com

OSAKA

Sep 20

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGELoyal (Open Format)DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:

MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS:

Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:

06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 21

CIRCUSLicaxxx Japan Tour with Tcr in Osaka All Night Long (Techno)DJS: Licaxxx + more • OPEN:

11pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS:

Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:

06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 21

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEEn:Core (Hip Hop/OpenFormat)DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

KYOTO

Sep 21

METRODJ Colaboy presents Homesick 42 -Dengaryu’ Ride On Time’ Release Party- (Hip Hop)ACTS: Dengaryu, Colaboy, Ce$, Ch.0, Nutsman + more • OPEN:

10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,800/1D (ADV:

¥3,300/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu

Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

OSAKA

Sep 21

MILULARIHard Techno Grooves#7.5 Osaka (Techno/Hard Techno/Trance)DJS: Loe, Hilock, Linn + more • OPEN: 1pm–9pm • ADMISSION:

¥3,000 • ACCESS: Namba Subway Stn, Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6606-9395 • milulari.com

HYOGO

Sep 21

VARIT.Troop Crossing feat. Mr. Ho (House/Techno)DJS: Mr. Ho, Masafumi Onishi, Shunjee, + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000/1D • ACCESS:

Sannomiya Subway Stn, Hankyu Sannomiya Stn, JR Sannomiya Stn • TEL: 078-335-8879 • varit.jp

OSAKA

Sep 22

COMPUFUNK RECORDSNiagara feat. Justin Van Der Volgen (Disco/House)DJS: Justin Van Der Volgen, Akihiro, Discoball Ikeda + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION:

¥2,500/1D • ACCESS: Kitahama Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6314-6541 • compufunk.com

OSAKA

Sep 22

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEWay Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:

MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS:

Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:

06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 27

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGELoyal (Open Format)DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:

MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS:

Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:

06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 28

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEEn:Core (Hip Hop/OpenFormat)DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

OSAKA

Sep 29

GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEWay Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:

MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women &FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS:

Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:

06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com

KYOTO

Sep 30

METROMint - September-only Released Tracks Night - (Techno/House)DJS: Kuwabara, Hisashi Aochi, Shintaro Fujita + more • OPEN:

10pm–3am • ADMISSION:

¥1,500/1D • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

Oct

KYOTO

Oct 4

METRODJ Colaboy presents Homesick 43 supportedby Cocalero, Nusa Cana(Electronic/House)DJS: Towa Tei, Tofubeats, Okadada, Halfby + more • OPEN:

10pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,000/1D (ADV:

¥3,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

OSAKA

Oct 6

NANKO SANKAKU KOENNanko De La Soul (House/Funk/Soul/Hip Hop/Jazz)LIVE: Jazzy Beats Collective, Soul Flowz, Yacel Sagarra,

“Peter Vawter Project” + more DJS: Yoshihiro Okino, Ageishi, Mightwhales, Max Pela, City Boy Lounge + more • OPEN:

11am–7pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,000/1D • ACCESS: Nanko Port Town line, Port Town Higashi Stn • TEL:  06-6615-7795 • iflyer.tv/ja/nanko_sankaku_park

KYOTO

Oct 30

METRO!!! (chk chk chk) “Wallop” Release Party Japan Tour (House/Dance)LIVE: !!! + more • OPEN: 7pm–11pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL:

075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp

OSAKA

Nov 19

PICCADILLY UMEDANew Ôrder feat. DJ Mel & Ogamixxx (EDM/Future House)DJS: Mel, Ogamixxx, Shilver Fox, Shinji, Ray + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly.com

OSAKA

Oct 5

CIRCUS

LEN FAKI JAPAN TOUR 2019 OSAKA (TECHNO/MINIMAL)Len Faki has been making popular techno for about 20 years and his tracks just keep getting better. The German producer started his label Figure in 2003 and became a resident DJ at the legendary Berghain nightclub in Berlin in 2004. In 2007, he became more well-known internationally with the success of his tracks Mekong Delta and My Black Sheep. Berlin continues to be the epicenter of the techno scene in no small part thanks to the efforts of Faki and his label. Len Faki comes from a scene where the party doesn’t stop just because the sun is up. His tracks are designed to keep everyone dancing into the afternoon and he’ll be bringing that energy to Osaka this October.DJS: Len Faki + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,600/1D(ADV:

¥3,100/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com

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LEN FAKI

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KYOTO

Honke OwariyaJAPANESE

Located in an atmospheric old wooden building, Honke Owariya is one of Kyoto’s oldest and best soba restaurants. Down the street from the Imperial Palace, you’ll find this over 500-year-old two-story restaurant, which looks a lot like a traditional Japanese house, doubling as a confectionary and noodle shop. The restaurant is decked out with wood furnishings, paper walls, sliding doors, small outdoor gardens, and tatami mats. It is very popular with locals, so get there early or be prepared to wait in line. Dishes range from plain bowls of noodles to full sets. Most of the seating is on tatami mat floors around low tables.322 Niomontsukinukecho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto

Osaka

SHINSAIBASHI

GAKUYA BURGERAMERICAN Yes, another hipster Osaka burger joint, but this one offers exclusively pork patties – an unusual take on an otherwise familiar theme. The interior has a woody, homemade vibe (in true hipster fashion), and the burgers are mouth-wateringly good, with a good range of options. 2-15-13 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka

COMPTOIR 15FRENCH Run by owner-chef-sommelier Inoue-san, this small counter-style bistro offers authentic bistro style French cuisine and wines sourced directly from wineries in France. Book ahead.1 Chome-29-16 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • Tel: 06-4390-0005

SAPPORO SOUP CURRY JACKJAPANESE One of Osaka’s most popular Uber Eats choices, this recent newcomer serves up excellent Sapporo-style soup curry – chicken and vegetables in a delicious dashi-infused spicy broth, served with saffron rice. 3-8-9 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6710-9654

ASIAN BAR RAMAI JAPANESE When walking into Abiko’s Asian Bar Ramai, you’ll feel like you’ve just stepped through a portal to South East

Asia but the cuisine on the menu is distinctly Hokkaido-esque. Spicy bowls of soupy curry with chunks of seared meat and vegetables with rice on the side await you.7-12-5 Kanda, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6657-7196

BOKKAKEYAJAPANESE Rustic noodle shop in Minami-semba serving delicious hand-cut buckwheat soba noodles in a delicate Kansai-style broth. During the evenings, the menu is expanded to include izakaya fare and a great selection of local sake.Nishi-ku, Shinmachi 1-2-13 1F • Tel 06-6535-2483 • soba-bokkakeya.com

LA GOLOSETTAPIZZERIA Authentic Napoli-style pizzeria serving up delicious pizzas and appetizers from its small two-storey location in Minami-semba.2-8-13 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6264-1225 • lagolosetta.web.fc2.com

TOFU SORANOJAPANESE Enjoy creative tofu dishes and izakaya favorites in this sleek Japanese restaurant featuring a modern, minimalist interior.4-5-6 Minami-kyuhojimachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6120-0644 • foodgate.net/shop/sorano.html

WADCAFE This cafe and art gallery serves traditional Japanese

green tea in beautiful ceramic dishes.4-9-3 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL:

06-4708-3616 • wad-cafe.com

LA FINESTRAITALIAN Spacious open-plan restaurant offering pasta and other Italian dishes near Orix Theater.1-33-8 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL:

06-6606-9016

LA BELLE VIEFRENCH Authentic yet creative french bistro-style dining and decadent desserts.2-17-17 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL:

06-6534-6686

CURRY DEKKAOETHNIC Sri Lankan-style curries in a cosy, no frills eatery in Minamisemba. Large colorful masks highlight its 2nd floor location.3-8-5 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-4963-3746

OSAKA CHAKAICAFE Choose your favorite premium rokucha green tea and have it freshly ground for you at this stylish cafe serving green tea drinks and desserts in Minami-morimachi.1F 2-1-25 Tenjinbashi, Kita-ku, Osaka • TEL:

06-6755-4789 • www.osakachakai.jp/eng

PIZZERIA DA TIGREITALIAN A down-to-earth pizzeria serving up a tasty range of authentic, sensibly priced Napoli-style pizzas. Pizzas are

ordered via a ramen shop-style ticket machine. Sit at their u-shaped counter or takeaway.1-18-13 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tel. 06-6535-8624

KUUSHINCHINESE Choose from daily A or B set lunches or an evening course of creative chinese cuisine at one of the tastiest chinese restaurants in Osaka. Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 06-6532-7729

TOKI NO HACHINESE Delicious bowls of noodles and freshly steamed dumplings are the main draw at this chinese tea emporium run by the same owner/chef as Kuushin. Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 06-6532-6001

COCOWELL CAFEJAPANESE Healthy, coconut-laced lunch plates and desserts are the focus of this all-day dining eco-friendly cafe in Horie.Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-13-21 • TEL: 06-6531-5572

BASE ISLAND KITCHENETHNIC This tiny counter-only restaurant serves up an eclectic mix of delicious tapas ranging from vegetarian and vegan dishes to Jamaican Jerk Chicken! Open until 5pm daily.Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-16-27

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HYOGO

Modernark pharm cafeVEGETARIAN

A healthy lunch haven just 10 minutes’ walk from Sannomiya Station, this charming wood-furnished eatery serves up wholesome lunch sets like vegetarian curry rice, green salads with brown rice (genmai), and vegetable wraps for around ¥1,000. If you come for afternoon tea, try the banana cake, coconut tiramisu, or matcha and cream cheese pound cake. For drinks, there’s everything from organic rose hip tea to soy matcha au lait, or a hot “black zinger” – a nutritious drink made from black soybeans. Great care is taken here to use organic, healthy, and local ingredients.3-11-15 Kitanagasadori, Chuo Ward, Kobe

TABIJI KITCHENETHNIC Choose your dish by its country of origin, in this comfortable restaurant that serves up everything from Vietnamese pho to English Shepherd’s Pie, depending on the day of the week.Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-14-20 • TEL: 06-6567-8403

CRAFT BURGERAMERICAN Run by a friendly Aussie expat and his wife, Craft Burger offers a delicious selection of burgers of which the patties, buns, and all their sauces are handmade with the freshest ingredients.Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-6 • TEL: 06-6556-6682

BISTRO NEW ORLEANSAMERICAN Authentic New Orleans-style restaurant, serving up Creole and Cajun dishes from its cosy Shinsaibashi location.Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-15-10 • TEL: 06-6543-7071

SAUCE BOSSAMERICAN Serving up mouth-watering chicken wings in a huge variety of flavors, with craft beer and original fresh fruit cocktails to wash them down.Nishi-ku, Kitahorie, 1-5-13 • TEL: 06-7171-7938

HANA SAKE BARBARS With friendly English-speaking staff on hand to guide you, try a range of local sake and other Japanese spirits at this casual bar in the heart of Shinsaibashi.1-8-4, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo-ku

AN NGONETHNIC An Ngon certainly lives up to its name, meaning “it’s delicious” in Vietnamese. The cozy restaurant is adorned with traditional masks and other Vietnamese decorations and boasts an extensive menu.4-11-24 Minamisenba Chuo-ku • TEL:

06-6282-4567

CAFE ABSINTHEETHNIC Stylish Mediterranean restaurant and bar serving craft cocktails, and excellent food, including hummus, falafel and babaganoush.Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-2-27 • TEL: 06-6534-6635

PAPRIKA SHOKUDOJAPANESE Vegetarian/vegan restaurant serving creative meat-free dishes - so flavorsome you could swear you were eating meat sometimes!Shinmachi 1-9-9, Nishi-ku • TEL: 06-6599-9788

EL PANCHOMEXICAN Serving up authentic Mexican fare since 1978, El Pancho offers great value combo plates and a happy hour that runs from 11:30am–5pm daily!Shinsaibashi Tower Bldg. 8F • TEL: 06-6241-0588

ALI’S KITCHENETHNIC Halal-certified Pakistani and Arabic cuisine, with over 200 menu items, including their popular goat brain masala and signature biryani dishes.B1 1-10-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku • TEL:

06-4708-5745

SATURDAYS NYCCAFES AND TEAROOMS Laid-back, spacious cafe cum boutique with a large island counter to recharge both your laptop and your senses.4-13-22 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku • TEL:

06-4963-3711

TAVOLA 36ITALIAN Occupying the 36th floor of the Swissôtel in Namba, this upscale restaurant serves an excellent buffet lunch and offers some fantastic views over the city day or night.5-1-60 Namba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6646-5125

MURPHY’S IRISH PUBBARS Japan’s oldest Irish bar and proud to provide the cheapest full pint in Osaka, Guinness and Kilkenny direct from Ireland, and a comprehensive selection of whiskeys and spirits.Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-Suji 1-5-2 2F • TEL:

06-6245-3757

THE BLARNEY STONEBARS Irish pub in the heart of Shinsaibashi with live bands,

great food and international staff. Happy Hour until 8pm.Higashi-Shinsaibashi 2-5-27 Koda Bldg. B1F • TEL: 06-6468-2220

SUSHI KAIBAJAPANESE Marrying a modern Japanese interior with authentic nigiri-zushi, Kaiba sets the standard for casual sushi dining. Choose from set courses or a la carte.Kitahorie 1-15-22 • TEL: 06-6532-2918

THE SUITEWINE AND COCKTAILS Modeled after a 1920s New York hotel suite, this place is as suave as it gets and the perfect spot for some post-dinner cocktails. Featuring live entertainment every weekend on its chandelier-lit stage area.Chuo Ward, Nishishinsaibashi, 2-18-18 • TEL: 06-6282-7742

ZERROBARS Popular Shinsaibashi bar with live DJs every weekend and no cover charge. Great food, cocktails and international beers from 500 yen.Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 2-3-2 • TEL:

06-6211-0439

UMEDA

MAÎTRE RENARDFRENCH Fine French cuisine with an Osaka twist in Dojima, created from organic local ingredients and served in stylish yet unpretentious surroundings. Hatsune Bldg. 2F, 1-5-4 Dojima Kita-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6147-633

BEER BELLYCRAFT BEER BARS Osaka’s local award-winning brewery, Minoh Beer, runs a brewpub in Higobashi. Serving seasonal brews as well as its regular lineup on tap, including its award winning stout and decent bar food.Nishi-ku, Tosabori 1-1-30 • TEL: 06-6441-0717

PIERREFRENCH The InterContinental Osaka’s 20th floor Michelin-starred restaurant features a seasonal fine dining menu in sophisticated surroundings.3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita-ku • TEL: 06-6374-5700

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OUTBACK STEAKHOUSEAMERICAN Australian-themed steakhouse chain, serving up juicy steaks, ribs, and seafood.Kita-ku, Dojima 1-6-20 • TEL: 06-6457-7121

HARDROCK CAFEAMERICAN International chain offering authentic American favorites – including its famous burgers and smokehouse sandwiches – and live music on the weekends.3-6-14 Minami-Hommachi, Chuo-ku • TEL:

06-6120-5711

BROOKLYN ROASTING COMPANY (KITAHAMA)CAFES AND TEAROOMS Great coffee and relaxing decor at this wonderful riverside location in Kitahama, overlooking the Central Public Hall.2 Chome-1-16 Kitahama, Chuo Ward • TEL:

06-6125-5740

TENNOJI

CASUAL KAPPOU IIDAKAPPOU Enjoy exquisite Japanese cuisine served in multiple courses at this nine-seater casual kappou restaurant. Reservations recommended. 1−1−1 Uehonmachi, Tennoji Ku, Osaka • Tel: 080-2423-4590

LEZZET CRAFTBEER & FOOD EXPERIENCECRAFT BEER BARS A craft beer bar with a great tap selection and extensive food menu, including

weekly specials and full-plate pasta dinners. No smoking.Abeno-ku, Matsuzaki-cho 2-3-21 • TEL:

06-7850-1412

TIN’S HALLBARS A perennial favorite for many expats, serving good bar food and drinks. Look out for happy hour from 6–9pm where a beer and generously sized burger combo is just 1,000yen. Free live music on Saturday nights.Tennoji Ward, Minamikawahoricho, 10−3 • TEL: 06-6773-5955

DARUMAJAPANESE No frills, kushikatsu (deep-fried battered meat and vegetables on sticks) dining in front of Tsutenkaku Tower. Remember the golden rule when reaching for the sauce – no double dipping!Osaka, Naniw-ku, Ebisucho-higashi 2-3-9 • TEL: 06-6645-7056

ZUBORAYAJAPANESE One of Shinsekai’s iconic restaurants. Look for the giant blowfish lantern that seems to be floating in midair. Whatever form of blowfish you can imagine, Zuboraya has it at an affordable price.Naniwa-Ku, Ebisu-Higashi 2-5-5 • TEL:

06-6633-5529

AOI NAPOLI IN THE PARKITALIAN Airy two-storey trattoria serving quality pizza and pasta, located in the recently renovated Tenshiba park area. Good choice for families with children.

5-55 Chausuyamacho, Tennoji-ku • TEL:

06-6773-2225

Kyoto

IN THE MOONROOFTOP BAR Low-key music, tasteful lighting, and reasonable prices make this rooftop haven the ultimate location for an evening cocktail.200 RF Kamogawa Bldg, Nakanocho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto • Tel: 075-708-6966

GOMACRO SALONVEGAN Gomacro is paradise for sesame fans. Everything on the menu—including drinks and desserts—is sesame-based. As well as being vegan, the focus is on healthy and seasonal food. 67-3 Shinmeicho, Nakagyo ward, Kyoto • 075-257-5096

SPICE CHAMBERETHNIC Counter-style curry restaurant serving up fiery Indian-style curries, accompanied with homemade pickles.1F Fukui Bldg., 502 Hakurakuten-cho, Muromachi-dori, Ayanokoji-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku • 075-342-3813 • spicechamber.com

ROCK BAR INGBAR A stalwart of the Kiyamachi bar scene since 1998, this small but cosy rock’n’roll bar promises good times, cheap beer and great music.

288-201 Minami Kuruyamacho, Nishi Kiyamachidori Takoyakushi-Agaru, Nakagyo-Ku • Tel: 075-255-5087

BEER KOMACHICRAFT BEER BARS A small izakaya-style dining bar with seven taps of Japanese craft beer and a good sake menu to boot. Serves excellent food.444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL:

075-746-6152

KYOTO BEER LABCRAFT BEER BARS A cosy brewpub run by Kyoto’s own ChaBeer Brewing Company, offering some rather unusual beers, including its American Hopped Green Tea Pale Ale, infused with green tea grown in nearby Wazuka-cho.Shimogyo-ku Juzenjicho, 3 201 • TEL:

075-352-6666

MILTON’S KYOTOBARS Cosy hole-in-the-wall 8-seater bar run by English-speaking local artist, Milton. A huge choice of liquors to choose from, including a good range of rums and whiskies. Non smoking.Nakagyo Ward, Yamazakicho 246 2F

UMENOHANA KARASUMAJAPANESE Tofu in all its forms and variations, coupled with seasonal vegetables and presented in a stunning fine dining setting. English menu available.Nakagyo Ward, Karasuma-Rokkaku, West 18 Bldg. B1F • TEL: 075-254-0566

OSAKA

Uranamba TorameyokochoJAPANESE

Roam east of Namba Station into Ura-Namba and look for the vermillion torii marking the entrance to Torame Yokocho. Here you’ll find a delicious repertoire of Osaka favorites like okonomiyaki and kushikatsu alongside sushi, sashimi, yakiniku, and more. The best thing about Torame Yokocho is that you can dine at one table but order from all the different restaurants within the complex. A fun, casual vibe, this is the perfect place to bring a small group for a low-key lunch or dinner where you can sample many different types of dishes.2-3-15 Sennichimae, Chuo-ku, Osaka

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KATSUKURA SANJOJAPANESE Grind your own sesame seeds at this stylish chain of tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurants. Great value set meals including all-you-can-eat rice, miso soup and shredded cabbage. The Sanjo branch is the original store.16, Ishibashicho, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075-212-3581

KUSHIKURAJAPANESE Charcoal grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables dishes served in a beautiful 100-year-old traditional kyo-machiya house.584 Hiiragi-cho Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075-213-2211

FALAFEL GARDENETHNIC Laid-back Israeli cafe and restaurant near Demachiyanagi. Authentic falafel and other vegetarian-friendly options available.15-2 Tanaka Kamiyanagicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-712-1856 • www.falafelgarden.com

NISHITOMIYA CROQUETTE SHOPFUSION RESTAURANTS Gourmet croquettes paired with wine and tasty appetizers served in a cozy bar; at wine barrels that double as tables or on stools at the counter. These special fusion croquettes are even available for takeout.Kyoto, Shimogyo Ward, Kawaramachi Matsubara Sagaru Uematsu-cho 735 • TEL:

075-202-9837

Hyogo

DAIZUYAVEGETARIAN The variety of Daizuya’s soy-based offerings—including firm and soft tofu, regional varieties, and even tofu skin with avocado—is matched only by the range of condiment options. If you’re not fond of bean curd, see the à la carte menu for alternatives, such as grilled chicken, or shrimp and avocado salad.

Eagle Bldg B1F, 4−7−20 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 050-5285-7538

CAFE AGEHAJAPANESE A perfect pit stop after a morning exploring the Kitano area, Ageha serves healthy brown rice lunch sets and tempting fruit tarts from its spacious location near the top of Tor Road. 2-4-8 Nakayamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-321-2780

UNDERGROUND BAKERYBAKERIES AND PATISSERIES Scones, brownies, Victoria sponge cakes - this little bakery is a homage to British baking, but sells out fast.5-1-1 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • ugbakery.com

BAAN THAITHAI Popular Thai restaurant tucked away near Ikuta-jinja shrine, that offers spicy Thai favorites in cosy surroundings.1-8-8 Kitanagasadori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL:

078-391-0545

BAKERY RIKIBAKERIES AND PATISSERIES Tiny bakery in Motomachi drawing crowds with its impressive range of freshly baked breads and sweet treats. Get there early.2-7-4 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-392-8585

SONA RUPAINDIAN Upscale authentic Indian dining with a warm spacious atmosphere, popular with Kobe expats.2-2-9 Yamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL:

078-322-0252

HONG KONG SWEETS CAFE TIM MA MACHINESE Delightfully retro interior and authentic Hong Kong-style chinese tea and desserts, served at tables labelled as Hong Kong metro stations.3-1-16 Sannomiyacho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-322-3530 • tim-ma-ma.com

BONDITALIAN A spacious, sleek open plan interior serving up quality pasta dishes and trattoria-style mains just in front of the Mosque in Kobe’s Kitano area. Their chocolate tart with mountain-sansho is a real treat.Kobe, Chuo-ku, Yamate-dori 3-3-5 • TEL:

078-252-0052

INDUSRAY

ETHNIC Authentic southern-Indian home-cooked food, served from this small, cosy family-run restaurant in Motomachi. The lamb or chicken biryani comes highly recommended.Chuo-ku, Motomachi-dori 3-11-10 • TEL:

078-332-1660

TRITON CAFECAFES & TEAROOMS Popular, stylish open-plan cafe on Kitano-zaka, serving up food all day, including bistro-style lunch plates and homemade desserts.1-23-16 Nakayamatedori, Chuo-ku • TEL:

078-251-1886

PIZZERIA AZZURRIITALIAN Delicious authentic Napoli-style pizzas and antipasto, served from a small location near Kitano. One of the most popular pizzerias in Kobe, so be sure to make a reservation, or arrive early.Chuo Ward, Yamamotodori, 3-7-3 • TEL:

078-241-6036

GYOSHO TAKA-AKISEAFOOD RESTAURANTS A haven for seafood lovers in the center of Kobe. There’s an upstairs and a downstairs and on the way in, there are tanks and boxes brimming with the fruits of the ocean—succulent tuna, creamy sea urchin, and chewy abalone—straight from Kobe’s central fish market. One of four restaurants in the Taka-Aki family, this flagship branch also boasts a well-stocked bar.4-5-3 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL:

050-5869-0268

FARMSTANDJAPANESE Farm-to-table is the concept at this Kitano-zaka cafe and market serving healthy and nutritious lunch sets (¥1,000), homemade cakes, and local dairy soft-serve ice cream.1-7-15 Yamamoto-dori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • eatlocalkobe.org

Need more dining options?

See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com

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HYOGO

Yidaki CafeVEGAN

Organic vegan fare anywhere in Japan is a rarity, but head to this cosy second floor eatery in Motomachi and enjoy a delicious plant-based lunch plate or coconut curry. Their falafel pita bread sandwich also hits all the right notes. Just around the corner from the BAL building.3-3-6 2F Sannomiya-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-335-0520

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Maps & Info

Getting AroundThe Kansai area covers the prefectures of Osaka, Kyoto, Hyogo, Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and Shiga. There is so much to explore, so you’ll need to prioritize your time wisely. Its main travel hubs are Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, all of which are well connected by high-speed rail networks, including the shinkansen (bullet train).On regular trains, you can travel between Osaka and Kyoto in about 45 mins, and between Kobe and Osaka in about 30 mins. If you are here on holiday, pick up a convenient travel pass, such as the Kansai Thu Pass (surutto.com) or Kansai One Pass (kansaionepass.com), to avoid having to negotiate the ticket machines. Use a website such as HyperDia (hyperdia.com) to check train times and platforms from your smartphone.

Trains and SubwaysThere is an excellent rail network connecting all corners of Kansai. As well as JR (Japan Rail), there are numerous private railway companies servicing the area, including Keihan (Osaka/Kyoto), Hankyu (Osaka/Kyoto), Nankai (Osaka, Wakayama, Koya), Hanshin (Osaka/Kobe), and Kintetsu (Osaka/Nara/Mie/Nagoya). Each line operates several types of train. For the fastest trains, look for the Limited Express service trains. Be aware that Local trains stop at every station on the line, so only take them if no other type of train stops at your station. Subways operate in Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto and are an extremely efficient way to get around the cities.Tip: Pick up a Railway Network map from a major station or Tourist Information Center.

BusesFor out-of-the-way locations, or in certain cities such as Kyoto, you may need to take a bus. A travel pass usually includes travel on municipal bus services.

TaxisFares start from ¥500. The drivers wearing white gloves and official hats tend to be the most courteous, but don’t expect English to be widely understood. Have your destination name and address on hand in Japanese. As of February 2019, taxis can now be ordered using the Uber app.

Airport TransfersTo/from downtown Osaka, the most convenient option is the Nankai Rapi:t Express service (KIX <> Namba 42mins) or a Limousine Bus. To/from Kyoto, take the JR Airport Express HARUKA service (75 mins).

ATMs and Credit CardsIf you’re using Visa, you will be able to withdraw cash at most bank or convenience-store ATMs. If you’re using Mastercard, your best bet for withdrawing money is at 7-Eleven ATMs. Most other ATMs in Kansai do not accept Mastercard. It is not common to make in-store payments using credit or visa-debit cards in Japan, even for expensive purchases. Many shops and restaurants do not offer this service, so be sure to carry plenty of cash with you.

Wi-FiGetting connected in Kansai can be tricky. Renting a smartphone or SIM card at the airport is the safest option, to connect to the internet over a 3G or 4G network. In Osaka, you can access the Osaka Free Wi-Fi service at train and subway stations, stores and facilities throughout the prefecture.

Accidents and EmergenciesAmbulance/Fire service: Tel. 119Police: Tel. 110

GET KANSAI SCENEKansai Scene is available from the following major outlets in the Kansai region:

OSAKA

Hotels and Guesthouses

Conrad Osaka, Hyatt Regency, Nikko Hotel, St. Regis, Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Ritz Carlton, Hilton Osaka, Fraser Residence Nankai Osaka, InterContinental Hotel Osaka

Tourist Information Centers

Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Osaka), Hankyu Tourist Center Umeda, Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Namba), Kansai Tourist Information Center (KIX), Kansai Tourist Information Center (Shinsaibashi), Nankai Information Center (Namba)

Shops

Kinokuniya Bookstore Umeda, Kinokuniya Honmachi, Tower Records Umeda, Junkudo Namba, Hard Rock Cafe

KYOTO

Hotels and Guesthouses

Royal Hotel, Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto, Kyoto Nikko Hotel

Tourist Information Centers

Kyoto Tourist Information Center, Kansai Tourist Information Center Kyoto, Kyoto International Community House

Shops

Junkudo Kyoto, Maruzen & Junkudo Kyoto Main Store, GEAR

KOBE

Hotels and Guesthouses

Kobe Bay Sheraton, Kobe Portopia Hotel

Tourist Information Centers

Kobe International Community Center, Hyogo International Plaza

Shops

Junkudo Nishinomiya, Junkudo Sannomiya, Kinokuniya Kobe

Welcome To Kansai

Page 49: €¦ · Autumn The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas Explore KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS Travel TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI Discover

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 49

Maps & InfoSee Kansaifinder.com for more

FUKUSHIMA

KITAHAMA

EDOBORI

DOJIMA NISHI TENMAHanshin Expressway (Loop Route)

Tenmabashi

Naniwabashi

NAKANOSHIMA

Watanabebashi

Oebashi

Chuo Line

Keihan-Nakanoshima Line

KITA SHINCHI

35F

Hanshin Main Line

Route No.2

Fukushima Sta.

JR Tozai Line

Tosabori Dori

Honmachi Dori

Shin-Fukushima Sta.

Nakan

oshi

ma S

ta.

Fukushima Sta.

Dojima River

Higobashi

HankyuUmeda Sta.

HankyuTouristCenter

Osaka Station City

Um

eda

Hanshin Umeda Sta.

Nis

hi U

med

aDai-1Bldg.

Kita Shinchi

Dai-2Bldg.

Dai-4Bldg. Osaka Dental

Clinic

Creamy

MaekawaLegal Group

Dai-3Bldg.

Yotsubashi Line

Tosabori River

Midosuji Line

Miyako

jima-d

ori

Hankyu Higashidori Arcade

Osaka Loop Line

Shin Midosuji

Midosuji

Yotsubashisuji

Naniw

asuji

Amidaikesuji

Higashi U

meda

Nakazaki-c

ho

Tanimachi Line

Chuo Odori

Sakaisuji LineK

itahama

Nakanoshima Dori

Yodoyabashi

Ogimachi Park

Loft

Kinokuniya

ClubQuattro

Always

umedaTRAD

USConsulate

Hotel Kansai

The BlarneyStone

HanshinDept.

Junkudo

SonezakiPolice H.Q.

Toho Cinemas Umeda

HankyuDept.

The NationalMuseum of Art,Osaka

ScienceMuseum

TAKAMURA Wine & CoffeeRoasters

YodobashiCamera

JR OsakaLucua 1100

Osaka StationCity Cinema Lucua

HotelGranvia

HiltonPlaza West

TGI Fridays

City Hall

Osaka City Public Hall

Library

Brooklyn Roasting Company Kitahama

Club Noon

Kids PlazaOsaka

WestinHotel

MisterKelly’s

Herbis Osaka

Hotel Monterey Osaka

Hearton Hotel Nishiumeda

Rihga RoyalHotel

Osaka InternationalConvention Center(Grand Cube Osaka)

Sumitomo Hosp.

TowerRecords

The Ritz-CarltonOsaka

HotelHanshin

Drop InnOsaka

MaruBldg.

HiltonHotel

NTT Data

ABC Hall

Dojima River Forum

YMCA

Craft BeerBase Garden

OSTEC Exibition Hall

Beer Belly

RihgaNakanoshima

Inn

APA Hotel

ConradOsaka

Mitsui Garden Hotel

Hotel Kinki

Visitors’InformationCenter

DaimaruUmeda

Umeda SkyBuilding

Cine Libre Umeda

Post Office

Utsubo Park

Kitamido

Utsubo Tennis Center

Honmachi Sakaisujihommachi

Bank of Japan

Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kitahama

APA VillaHotel

FestivalHall

Nakanoshima Festival Tower West

Ana CrownePlaza

ACCJKansai

Hotel ElsereineOsaka

Dojima Hotel

Mitsui SumitomoBank

Museum of Oriental Ceramics

GARB Weeks

Nii Fine Arts

Elmers Green Cafe

il Bar CentralBanco

Daiichi Group

Hard Rock Cafe Osaka

Dojima Avanza

HerbisEnt

InterContinental Osaka Hotel

HankyuGrand Bldg

Grand FrontOsaka /KnowledgeCapital

UmekitaPlaza

German Consulate

Hep 5Hep Navio

TheaterUmeda

New HankyuOsaka Hotel

H&M

Hub

OWL Osaka

ClubAzul

TohoAnnex

Maruzen & Junkudo

Craft Beer Base

The Symphony Hall

Shangrila

UmedaBurg7

OsakaYWCA

KitanoHosp.

Hanshin Expressw

ay (Moriguchi R

oute)

Hanshin Expressway

Hon

mac

hi

Hon

mac

hi

APA Hotel

The St. Regis,Osaka

Soai High School Starbucks

Starbucks

2F

33F

6F

3/4F3RD WORD Beer

MelbourneCoffeeOutback

Steakhouse

Exeo

Captain Kangaroo

Noon+Cafe

OSA

KA

Um

eda

A

A

1

2

3

4

5

1

2

3

4

5

B

B

C

C

D

D

Page 50: €¦ · Autumn The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas Explore KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS Travel TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI Discover

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com50

Maps & Info

SHINMACHI

SHINSAIBASHI

SOEMON-CHO

DOTONBORI

NAMBA

KITA-HORIE

NIPPON-BASHI

HIGASHI-SHINSAIBASHI

MINAMI-HORIE

INARI

MINAMI-SEMBA

Nishiohashi

Yots

ubas

hi

Dotonbori River

Nan

iwa-

suji

Nam

ba

JR N

amba

Sta

.

Nam

ba Sta.

NambaSennichimae line

Saka

isuj

i lin

e

Suomachi-dori (Europe street)

Shin

saib

ashi

-suj

i (sh

oppi

ng a

rcad

e)Sh

insa

ibas

hi-s

uji (

shop

ping

arc

ade)

Orange Street (shopping street)

NagahoribashiNagahori Tsurumi-Ryokuchi line

Nagahori dori

Shinsaibashi

Mid

osuj

i lin

e

Ota

road2F

4F

Yots

ubas

hi li

ne

2F

Ark Hotel

Tokyu Hands

GAPLouis Vuitton

Hearton Hotel

Osaka Convention & Tourism Bureau

NambaShrine

ComfortHotel

FujiyaHotel

Dormy Inn

KaneyoshiRyokan

KinryuRamen

ibis StylesOsaka

Vista GrandeOsaka

DaimaruDept.North

Hotel SunrouteOsaka Namba

Osaka Floral Inn

GhostUltralounge

Cinem@rt

Banco

Vano

CraftBurger

Circus

CafeAbsinthe

Critters Burger

EXODUS

NikkoHotel

Via Inn

HotelMystays

Nishitetsu Inn

Osaka Hana Hostel

Big Step

Silver BallPlanet

El Pancho

Zerro

Coolabah

AbsintheSolaar

GS Travel

ArthurMurray

MaharajaMinami

CoventGarden

Ali’s Kitchen

Uniqlo

OPA

CrossHotel

APAHotel

DormyInn

HotelLions Rock

DotonboriHotel

Kansai TouristInformation Center

HotelIchiei

Casa Lapichu

McDonaldsOsaka PrefecturalGymnasium

Naniwa SportsCenter

Naniwa Post Office

Naniwa Ward Office

FraserResidence

B1

PureOsaka Don Quijote

Vanity

Namba PlazaHotel

APA Hotel

BIC Camera

MUJI/LOFTTower Records

Maruzen

Toys”R”Us

Animate Nihonbashi Shop

K2 record

Sofmap

NambaOrientalHotel

MisonoBuilding

Singh’s Kitchen

KuromonMarket

Jazz BarB-Roxy

NationalBunrakuTheater

Junkudo

AEONMaxValu

OCAT

AppleStore

DaimaruDept.

DaimaruDept.South

NaniwaPark

HoriePark

Shinmachi Kita Park

Sun Hall

Slices

Joule

Triangle Park

Little Long Beach

Music Bar S.O.R.a

WestwoodBakers

TezukayamaGallery

Ohno MemorialHospital

Hotel Monterey Grasmere Osaka

TominagaHospital

NambaHatch

SwissôtelNankai Osaka

Nankai NambaStation

YamadaDenkiLABI1 Namba

NambaPARKS

NAMBA PARKS CINEMA

TakashimayaDept. Store

Toho Cinemas Namba annex

Toho Cinemas Namba

Don Quijote

Mexico

Rooftop Bar OO

ALZAR

New JapanSpa Plaza Osaka

Shochikuza

HozenjiTemple

L&LROR Comedy

NAMBA-NAKA

MOTO-MACHI

VisitorsInformation

Center

Namba Hips

MoeJoe

Anngon

MizuhoBank

B1Burlesque

Bar JaaiJANUS

Murphy’s

The BlarneyStone B1F

soma Cinquecento

FootRock&BEERS

Minami Police Station

Shimanouchi Library

Triangle

Hotel Via InnHeartonHotel

Daiwa Roynet Hotel

Toyoko Inn

Pub Bar 30

Nipponbashi sta.

HeartonHotel

Nest HotelYamaya

Big Beans Supermarket

Life

Jack & Queen

3F

2F2F

5F

8F

Kokopelli

SauceBoss

El Zocalo

SabotenBase

Chaolua

BistroNewOrleans

bi-grace nail

Saturdays NYC

Boy

The Suite

TABIJI KitchenGranknot

Coffee

Balabushka

MustangMoonshine

Moon Tower

OSA

KA

Shi

nsai

bash

i A

A

1

2

3

4

5

1

2

3

4

5

B

B

C

C

D

D

Page 51: €¦ · Autumn The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas Explore KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS Travel TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI Discover

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 51

Maps & InfoSee Kansaifinder.com for more

TENMA

KYOBASHI

TAMATSUKURI

OsakaCastle

OsakaTemmangu Shrine

OsakaCastle Park

MorinomiyaQ’s Mall BASE

Osaka JogakuinCollege

Osaka Museumof HistoryNHK

Osaka Hall

The Lutheran Hotel

APA Hotel

Osaka PrefecturalGovernment Office

Osaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry

MyDomeOsaka Yamamoto

Noh Theater

Osaka-joHall

Hotel New OtaniOsaka

Izumi Hall

AEON Kyobashi

Taiko-en

Hotel MontereyLa Souer Osaka

Keihan Mall

Mint Museum

KKR HotelOsaka

Subw

ay Im

azat

o Li

ne

Osa

ka L

oop

Line

Tozai Line

Keihan Main Line

Subw

ay T

anim

achi

Lin

e

Hanshin Expressway Higashi Osaka Route

Subw

ay S

akai

suji

Line

Subway Chuo Line

Han

shin

Exp

ress

way

Kita

ham

a

Tani

mac

hi 4

-cho

me

Tenmabashi

Tenm

abas

hi

Osaka Tenmangu

Minam

i-Morim

achi

Osaka Business Park

Osa

ka-j

o K

oen

Morinom

iyaKyobashi

Shigino

Kyobashi

Osakajo-

kitazume

Saka

isuj

i Hon

mac

hiOsaka Chakai

Museum of Oriental Ceramics

EBISUNISHI

SHITENNOJI

Osaka MunicipalUniversity Hospital

Abeno Q’s Mall

Abeno Harukas

TennojiMIO

Hoop

ROCKTOWN4F

LanguageSchool

Tin’s HallKansai KyoikuUniversity

Shitennoji

ShitennojiHonbo

Osaka TennojiZooSpa World

TennojiWard Office

Tenshiba

Osaka CityMuseumof Fine Arts

Tsutenkaku

ImamiyaEbisu Shrine

ZeppNamba

TennojiSta.

Osaka-Abenobashi

Aben

o St

a.

Shin-Imamiya

Nan

kai S

hin-

Imam

iya

Dobutsuen-mae

Ebis

ucho

Imam

iyae

bisuDai

koku

cho

Tera

dach

o

Tenn

oji S

ta.

Shite

nnoj

i-m

aeYu

higa

oka

Nan

kai M

ain

Line

Yots

ubas

hi L

ine

Sakaisuji Line

Kansai Main Line

Han

kai T

ram

way

Hanwa Line

JR Kansai Main Line

Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line

Midosuji Line

Tani

mac

hi L

ine

Osak

a Lo

op L

ine

Mom

odan

i

Koboreguchi Sta.

Imai

ke

Hag

inoc

haya

Han

azon

ocho

Imfu

ne

Han

shin

Exp

ress

Rou

te 1

CocoMomo&Co.

Lezzet

OSA

KA

Osaka C

astleO

SAK

A Tennoji

A

A

1

2

1

2

B

B

C

C

D

D

A

A

1

2

1

2

B

B

C

C

D

D

Page 52: €¦ · Autumn The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas Explore KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS Travel TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI Discover

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com52

Maps & Info

Nijo

Shichijo

Gojo

Shijo

Karasuma Kawaramachi

Gio

n-Sh

ijo

Marutam

achi

Jingu-Marutam

achi

Kam

ogaw

a R

iver

Tozai Subway Line Kyotoshiyakusho-mae

Sanjokeihan

Sanj

o

Kyoto Brewing Co.

Zuirinji Temple

Toji

Tofukuji Temple

Komyoin

Imakumano-Jinja Shrine

Toyokuni-JinjaShrine

Ichihime-Jinja Shrine

Bukkoji Temple

Amore Kiyamachi

Shoenji Temple

Kyoto-Daijingu Shrine

Nyorinin Hozoji Temple

Hotel Nikko Princess Kyoto

MitsuiGarden Hotel

Mibudera Temple

Hanano Yu

Kotoku Park

Sumiya Motenashi Museum

Kyoto National Museum

Chisaku-in Temple Sanjusangendo

Otani Hombyo Cemetary

to Kiyomizu-dera

Yasui Konpiragu Shrine

Seikoro

HigashiyamaWard Office

Kyoto GojoHotel Shuhokaku

Yumeyakata Gojo

Daisenji

Kennin-ji Temple Hojo

Yasaka Shrine

Kyoto Station

Kyoto Tower

Yodobashi Camera

Bic CameraRhiga Royal Hotel

APA Hotel

Hotel KeihanKyoto Grande

El Inn Kyoto

Kyoto Terrsa

Sakura Terrace

Hotel Granvia

Kyoto Century Hotel

Hyatt RegencyKyoto

Four SeasonsHotel Kyoto

New Miyako Hotel

HigashiHonganjiTemple

Shosei-en GardenNishiHonganjiTemple

Kyoto AquariumKyoto RailwayMuseum

Aeon Mall

Rokusonno-Jinja Shrine

Nijo Castle

Clamp CoffeeSasara

Rokkakudo Temple

Honnoji Temple Marker KyotoArt Center

Shounji

Village Kyoto

The Museum of Kyoto

Loft

Kyoto BALRound One

Kyoto City Hall

The Ritz-Carlton

Hotel Okura

Kyoto InternationalManga Museum

Hostel Mundo Chiquito

Nakamura General Store

Mikane-Jinja Shrine

Hearton Hotel

Umekoji Park

Oji

Kuj

o

Tofu

kuji

Tambaguchi

Omiya

Kyoto PrefecturalPolice Station

Nijojo-Mae

Shin-Omiya

Kar

asum

a O

ike

Higashiyama

to Maruyama Park

Gion Shirakawa

Gion Corner

Nishiki Market

to Heian Shrine

Yoboji Temple

to K

yoto

Im

pera

l Pal

ace

KYO

TO C

entr

al

A

A

1

2

3

4

5

1

2

3

4

5

B

B

C

C

D

D

Page 53: €¦ · Autumn The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas Explore KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS Travel TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI Discover

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 53

Maps & InfoSee Kansaifinder.com for moreK

YOTO

North

KYO

TO Sanjo

Mototanaka Sta.

Chayama Sta.

Ichijo-ji Sta.

Shugaku-in Sta.

Takaragaike Sta.

Miyake-Hachiman Sta.

Kokusaikaikan Sta.

Matsugasaki Sta.Kitayama Sta.

Kitaouji Sta.

Kurama-guchi Sta.

Kitano Hakubaicho Sta.

Imadegawa Sta.

Demachiyanagi Sta.

Sekizanzen-in Temple

Myoen-ji

Yusen-ji

Rinkyuji Temple

Manshu-inMonzeki Temple

Hachidai-Jinja Shrine

Konpuku-ji Temple

Shisen-do Temple

Enkou-ji Temple

Saginomori Shrine

Saginomori Imperial Villa

ICC Kyoto

Takaragaike Park

Kyoto Botanical Garden

Kawai-Jinja Shrine

Shimogamo-Jinja

Shokoku-ji Temple

HyakumanbenChion-ji Temple

Yoshida-jinja ShrineKyoto Imperial Palace

Aisen-ji Temple

Daishougun Hachi Shrine

Kitano Tenmangu

Hirano-Jinja Shrine

Kinkaku-ji

KinugasaJoshu-ji Temple

Imamiya Shrine

Koutou-in TempleDaitoku-ji

Jinko-in Temple

Genko-an Temple

Josho-ji Temple

Kamigamo Shrine Ota Shrine

Entsu-ji Temple Grand PrinceHotel Kyoto

Renge-ji Temple

Hounen-in Temple

Anraku-ji, and Reikan-ji

Higashiyama Jisho-ji(Ginkaku-ji)

Kamogaw

a Park

Nakaragi Path

Shimogam

o Nishi Dori

Tetsugaku-no-michi (Philosopher's Path)

Eizan Dentetsu Line

Keih

an O

utou

Lin

e

Subw

ay K

aras

uma

Line

Randen Railways Kitano Line

Kyoto Concert Hall

FalafelGarden

Kyoto University of Art & Design

Kamogawa River

Kam

ogawa R

iver

Taka

no R

iver

Nis

hi O

ji D

ori S

tree

t

Hor

ikaw

a D

ori S

tree

t

Senbon Dori Street

Shir

akaw

a D

ori S

tree

t

Kita Oji Dori Street

Imamiya Dori Street

Kitayama Dori Street

Hig

ashi

Oji

Dor

i Str

eet

Hotel Avanshell Kyoto

Kyoto Brighton

Hotel

Stay SAKURAKyoto Nishijin

GuesthouseKirinYaImadegawa Dori Street

Kitayama Dori Street

Kyotoshiyakusho-mae

SanjoHigashiyama

Sanj

o

Kar

asum

a O

ike

Kawaramachi

Gio

n-Sh

ijo

Karasuma

Shijo

Shoenji Temple

Yasaka Shrine

DaishogunShrine

Rokkakudo Temple

Nishiki-tenmanguShrine

Pontocho Park

Kyoto DaijinguShrine

Yoboji TempleKyotoHigh School

Honnoji Temple

Kyoto ModernArt Museum

Kanji Museum

Hotel Sunline

Minamiza Theater

Gion Kaikan

Gion Corner

Hana Hotel

Kyoto CityTourism Association Visitor Information

Kyoto Hotel OkuraHearton Hotel

Shimadai Gallery

Hotel Sugicho

Hiragiya

Smart Coffee

Comme des Garcons

Cafe Kocsi

Inoda Coffee

Kyoto InternationalManga Musuem

The Museum of KyotoNakagyo

Post Office

HotelGimmond

Nishiki Market

KyonoyadoKaginei

Frank's Chop Shop

Junkudo

Ninja Kyoto

Super Hotel

Owls ForestKyoto

Kawaramachi OPA

H&M

MaruiKyoto

TakashimayaDepartmentStore

KyotoBAL

Hotel Ponto Tosa-Inari Shrine(Misaki-jinja)

Zara

McDonald’s

Daimaru Kyoto

TokyuHandsCocon

Karasuma

VOU Art Gallery

Eggs ‘n Things

KarasumaHotel

KyotoMuse

HotelMontereyKyoto

Koiyama

Kyoto Art Center

Ippudo Nishikikouji

McDonald’s

Tozai Line

Kei

han

Mai

n Li

ne

Hankyu Kyoto Line

TatsumiBridge

Shinmonso

PoliceBox

Jam Hostel

Han

amik

oji-

dori

Shijo-dori

Sanjo-dori

Shirakawa river

Pon

toch

o

Kiy

amac

hi-d

ori

Loft Kyoto

Starbucks

Qu'il Fait Bon

OgawaCoffee

Kitsune Kyoto

PontochoKaburenjoTheater

HUB

UrBANGUILD

Royal ParkHotel

MovixKyoto Game Panic Seiganji

Temple

HozoTemple

Sugi DrugShinkyogoku

Papa Jon's Cafe Rokkaku

Kyoto Municipal Gender Equality Center Misayama

Park

Kam

ogaw

a R

iver

A

A

1

2

1

2

B

B

C

C

D

D

A

A

1

2

1

2

B

B

C

C

D

D

Page 54: €¦ · Autumn The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas Explore KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS Travel TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI Discover

Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com54

Maps & Info

Yamamoto-dori

Meriken park

KITANO-CHO

NANKIN-MACHI

Hanak

uma

Minatom

otom

achi

Nis

hi-m

otom

achi

SHINKO-CHO

Boeki center

Sannom

iya

SannomiyaSannomiya

Sanno

miya

JR San

nom

iyaJR Motomachi sta.

Motomachi

Tor Road Pearl Stre

et

Kobe Mosque

Migration Museum

Kobe Halal Food

Yamate kansen

1F

Hun

terz

aka

Kita

noza

kaFu

doza

ka

Shie

i Yam

ate

subw

ay li

ne

SOGO Dept.5F Port liner

Kobe kosokutetsudo

Hanshin line

JR To

kaido

Main

Line

Subway Kaigan line

Route 2

Flower road

Sanchika und.

7F

1F

7F

5F

5F

OS CinemasMint Kobe

4F

MitsuiSumitomoBank

MunicipalMuseum

Kobe CityHall

IsogamiPark

HigashiyuenchiPark

Kobe Luminarie

Aoyama

Raja IndianRestaurant

MinatoBank

SannomiyaCine Phoenix

Cine Libre Kobe

Marui

DaimaruDept.

Kobe Doll Museum

Hanakuma Park

Kobe IkutaJunior HighSchool

Palmore Hosp.

KitanosakaHosp.

Kitanoseiryu Shrine

KitanoMuseum

KobeElementarySchool

Shinko High School

Hotel La SuiteKobe Harborland

Hotel Okura Kobe

Kobe Minato Onsen Ren

Jumbo Ferry Terminal

KIITOCafe Fish!

Kobe Maritime Museum

Kobe Meriken Park Oriental

Kobe Cruise Luminous Kobe 2

Kobe Harborland umie

OS Cinema Harborland

umieMOSAIC

Arthur Murray

Hyogo-kenPrefectural Hall

Ikuta PoliceStation

KobeWomensJuniorCollege

Bistrot Cafe De Paris

Ikuta jinja

Hotel Monterey

the b kobe

Hotel Monte Hermana Kobe Amalie

Kobe Plaza Hotel

CandeoHotel Kobe

Tokyu REI Hotel

OrientalHotel

Hotel Tor Road

Kobe Grocers

Tokyu Hands

Troopcafe

Varit

VillageVangard

NHK

Kobe MeisterGarden

Mickey’sClub

DonQuijote

ChickenGeorge

Midnight

SorakuPark

SuwayamaPark

SanPlaza

CenterPlaza EastCenter

PlazaWest

Junkudo

Tower Records

Sannomiya

Hanadokeimae st.

Kyukyoryuchi

Daimarumae

Sansei Hosp.

Junkudo

Kinokuniya

Kobe KokusaiKaikan

Kobe Kokusai Shochiku

HSBC

KRAC

Sun CityThe Harbour Tavern

IzntTokyu REI Hotel

APA Hotel

Holiday Inn Express

Daiwa Roynet Hotel

Hotel SunrouteSopra

Hotel Piena Kobe

3F

Ali’s Kitchen

Kobe YWCA

2FThe Rock

2FGuild

Kobe BAL

4F

CULMENI3F

St. Michael’s International School

Oriental Dental Clinic

7FKobe Legal Partners

KO

BE

Sann

omiy

a A

A

1

2

3

4

5

1

2

3

4

5

B

B

C

C

D

D

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 55

Maps & InfoSee Kansaifinder.com for more

Kintetsu lineNara Sta.

Kasuga-taisha

Wakamiya Shrine

Kinryu Shrine

Kii Shrine

Mizuya Shrine

Musashino

Matsunoya

Mt. Wakakusa

Hitokotonushi Shrine

Tsubomiwa Shrine

Yuga Shrine

Hotel Tamar

Ruin of Yakemon (Chumon)the gate of Todaiji

Nara Women’sUniversity

SarusawaPond

AraPond

Himuro Shrine

Karakuni Shrine(Tengu Shrine)

Tamukeyama Hachimangu

Todaiji Hokkedo (Sangatsudo)

Todaiji Nigatsudo

GuesthouseNara Backpackers

Nara Prefectural Museum Isuien Neiraku

Museum

Nara Prefectural Office

“Tou-kon-do”

Hall of Kofuku-ji“Chu-kon-do”

Kofuku-jiMain Hall

Nan’endo

Hoku’endo

Tourist Info Center

Kozen-in

Meishou Kyu-Daijoin Teien

Five Storied Pagoda

The Fifty-Two Steps Kikusuiro

Roku-en

Former Residnece of Naoya Shiga (novelist)

Kuuki Cake Shop

Zutou Pyramid

Nara KasuganoInt’l Forum

Int’l ForumIRAKA Annex

Enso Bairin Tei

Ukimido Pavilion

Yoshiki-en

Shosoin Main Warehouse

Chisoku-In

Ryu-shou-InEast Treasures Warehouse

West Treasures Warehouse

Imperial Household AgencyShosoin Office

Tengaimongate of Todaiji

Ruin of Saidaimon the gate of Todaiji

Nara NationalMuseum

Nara National MuseumNew Wings

Saho R

iver

Todai-ji

Kagami-Ike Pond

Nara Hotel

Aoba Chaya

Hotel Wellness Asukaji

Edosan Inn

Shikitei

Oak Hostel Nara

Hotel PagodaYoshidaya

NARA PARK

NAKASUJI-CHO

SHUKUIN-CHO

NOBORIOJI-CHO

GANRININ-CHO

IKENO-CHO

YURUGI-CHO

OSHIAGE-CHO

HIGASHISASABOKO-CHO

NISHISASABOKO-CHO

SUIMON-CHO

Yume-Kaze PlazaShops & Cafes

Tourist Info Center(luggage storage & delivery service)

Gango-jiGokuraku-bo

Jurin-in Temple

Yagyu Kaido Trail

NandaimonGate of Todaiji

Kantoku Temple

Fukuu-in

LAMP BAR

LBK Craft (2F)

Todaiji Museum

Mont-bell Nara Pickle Shop

Keinawa Expressway

Nara Sta.

JR Nara Sta.

Heijo Sta.

Yamato-Saidaiji Sta.

Kujo Sta.

Takanohara Sta.

Yamada Sta.

Narayama Sta.

Kizu Sta.Nishi-Kizu Sta.

KYOTO

NARA

Kizu River

Nara-Okuyama Driveway

Mausoleums

Enjo-ji Temple

Heijō Palace remains

Ruin of Mausoleum

Asahi-kannonKubikiri Jizo

Jigoku-dani Sekkutsu-butsu

Touge Chaya

Yuhi-kannon

Mt. Yoshino

Ofuji’s Well

Ama-no-IshitateShrine

CENTRAL NARA

YAGYU AREA

Yagyu Kaido Trail

Housou Jizo

Iris garden

Jubei’s cedar

Bus Stop

Masakizaka Kendo & Zen Dojyo

Yasaka Shrine

Ruin of The House of Yagyu

Houtoku-ji Temple

YAGYU-CHO

YAGYU AREA

Nakamura 6 Jizos

Ima-gawa Stream

The main house of Yagyu

NA

RA

Central

NA

RA

Overview

A

A

1

2

3

1

2

3

B

B

C

C

D

D

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com56

Maps & InfoW

EST

Jap

an

A E

A E

1

2

3

4

5

B

B

C

C

D

D

WAKAYAMATOKUSHIMA

KAGAWA

EHIME KOCHI

HYOGO

OKAYAMA

HIROSHIMA

YAMAGUCHI

TOTTORI

SHIMANE KYOTO

SHIGA

NARAOSAKA MIE

FUKUI

GIFU

AICHI

Maibara

Shin Osaka

Nagoya

Gifu Hashima

Mikawa AnjoKyoto

Shin Kobe

Himeji

OkayamaShin Kurashiki

Fukuyama

Shin Onomichi

MiharaHigashi Hiroshima

Hiroshima

Shin Iwakuni

Tokuyama

Shin Yamaguchi

Aioi

Nishi Akashi

Himeji-jo Castle

Hiroshima

Tottori

KyotoOtsu

Uji

Tsuruga

Fukui

To N

igat

a &

Hok

kaid

o

Maizuru

Tamba

Sasayama

Nara

Ise

Hikone-jo Castle

Oumihachiman Nagoya

AwajiIsland

ShodoIsland

LakeBiwa

Mt. Koya

Mt. ObakoMt. Shakagatake

Mt. Rokko

Arima

Sumoto

Odaigahara

Nachikatsuura

Kumano Kodo Trail

Ninja Village

Hot Springs

Ski Spots

Beaches

Shingu

Hongu

Kushimoto

Naruto

Tokushima

Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools)

Takamatsu

Nachi Falls

Wakayama

Kansai InternationalAirport

Osaka

Sakai

Hashimoto

Kobe

Awaji

Akashi Ohashi

Naruto Ohashi

Seto Ohashi

Fushimi Inari Kinkaku-ji

Osaka-jo CastleToudai-ji Temple

Mikata-goko Five LakesCycling Course

Dinosaur Museum

Ise Grand Shrine

Toba Aquarium

Suzuka Circuit

Itsukushima-jinja Shrine

NaoshimaArt Island

Angel Road

Tottori Sand Dunes

Tokaido Shinkansen

Sanyo Shinkansen

Mt. Hiei

Mt. HyonosenMt. Daisen

Kochi

Matsuyama

Kurashiki

Okayama

Onomichi

Fukuyama

Yamaguchi

Imabari

Tsu

Gujo

Katsuyama

ObamaTakahama

Shirahama

TanabeMt. Nachi

KumanohonguShrine

Kumano

Yoshino

Iga

Koga

Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail

Ferries

Bridges

Enryaku-ji Temple

Kinosaki

Shionoha

Ako

Yonago

IzumoIzumo-taisha Shrine

Korakuen Garden

HyogoHyogo

KyotoKyoto TOKYOTOKYO

NaraNara

MieMie

ShigaShiga

WakayamaWakayama

OsakaOsaka

KANSAIKANSAI

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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 57

Maps & InfoSee Kansaifinder.com for more

WAKAYAMATOKUSHIMA

KAGAWA

EHIME KOCHI

HYOGO

OKAYAMA

HIROSHIMA

YAMAGUCHI

TOTTORI

SHIMANE KYOTO

SHIGA

NARAOSAKA MIE

FUKUI

GIFU

AICHI

Maibara

Shin Osaka

Nagoya

Gifu Hashima

Mikawa AnjoKyoto

Shin Kobe

Himeji

OkayamaShin Kurashiki

Fukuyama

Shin Onomichi

MiharaHigashi Hiroshima

Hiroshima

Shin Iwakuni

Tokuyama

Shin Yamaguchi

Aioi

Nishi Akashi

Himeji-jo Castle

Hiroshima

Tottori

KyotoOtsu

Uji

Tsuruga

Fukui

To N

igat

a &

Hok

kaid

o

Maizuru

Tamba

Sasayama

Nara

Ise

Hikone-jo Castle

Oumihachiman Nagoya

AwajiIsland

ShodoIsland

LakeBiwa

Mt. Koya

Mt. ObakoMt. Shakagatake

Mt. Rokko

Arima

Sumoto

Odaigahara

Nachikatsuura

Kumano Kodo Trail

Ninja Village

Hot Springs

Ski Spots

Beaches

Shingu

Hongu

Kushimoto

Naruto

Tokushima

Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools)

Takamatsu

Nachi Falls

Wakayama

Kansai InternationalAirport

Osaka

Sakai

Hashimoto

Kobe

Awaji

Akashi Ohashi

Naruto Ohashi

Seto Ohashi

Fushimi Inari Kinkaku-ji

Osaka-jo CastleToudai-ji Temple

Mikata-goko Five LakesCycling Course

Dinosaur Museum

Ise Grand Shrine

Toba Aquarium

Suzuka Circuit

Itsukushima-jinja Shrine

NaoshimaArt Island

Angel Road

Tottori Sand Dunes

Tokaido Shinkansen

Sanyo Shinkansen

Mt. Hiei

Mt. HyonosenMt. Daisen

Kochi

Matsuyama

Kurashiki

Okayama

Onomichi

Fukuyama

Yamaguchi

Imabari

Tsu

Gujo

Katsuyama

ObamaTakahama

Shirahama

TanabeMt. Nachi

KumanohonguShrine

Kumano

Yoshino

Iga

Koga

Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail

Ferries

Bridges

Enryaku-ji Temple

Kinosaki

Shionoha

Ako

Yonago

IzumoIzumo-taisha Shrine

Korakuen Garden

HyogoHyogo

KyotoKyoto TOKYOTOKYO

NaraNara

MieMie

ShigaShiga

WakayamaWakayama

OsakaOsaka

KANSAIKANSAI

F

F

1

2

3

4

5

G

G

H

H

I

I

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Page 60: €¦ · Autumn The art of the katana, uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see fiery fall vistas Explore KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS Travel TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI Discover