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AutumnThe art of the katana,
uncovering Tamba Sasayama, and where to see
fiery fall vistas
Explore
KANSAI FALL CAMPING SPOTS
Travel
TAKE IN THE AUTUMN VIEWS OF IBARAKI
Discover
A WAKAYAMA SWORDSMITH PRESERVES A DYING ART
Culture
HIMEJI’S FIGHTING FESTIVAL RETURNS
AUTUMN SEP–NOV 2019
No. 223
WHAT’S ONEAT & DRINK
SIGHTSEEINGMAPS
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WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE
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For Success in RUGBY Visit The Japanese Shinto Deity of VICTORY!
S hinto has been the indigenous faith for Japanese people since ancient times, preceding Buddhism. A Shinto shrine is a place of worship, with thoussands of
them all over Japan. Tarobo shrine in Higashi-omi is well known for its spiritual power and is believed to brings worshippers good luck, since it enshrines a deity of victory.
Many Japanese traditional cultures are deeply re-lated to Shinto. People pray to God for their family’s health, good harvest or safe travel, which sometimes involves a ritual ceremony, consisting of lighting fires, playing music or performing dances. This prayer culture has been deeply ingrained in local ar-eas. However, nowadays, even Japanese people rarely experience such a fantastic culture. That is why we prepared this tour to share the awe with you. Do you fancy a glimpse of Japanese religious culture? Are you visiting Japan from overseas? Don’t miss out on the chance to experience a unique local culture.
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There are numerous deities enshrined in various shrines up and down the country. Amongst them, the Tarobo Shrine in Higashi-omi city in Shiga prefecture, attracts a steady stream of worshippers, including sporting celebrities and sportsfans, and even Olympic medalists, all praying to realise their dreams.
The 2019 Rugby World Cup kicks off this autumn. Whether you are a fan or a player, this is the place you should visit!
THE HIGASHI-OMI REGION, 90 MINUTES FROM OSAKA, WAS DEVELOPED AS AN ESSENTIAL TRANSPORTATION HUB TO LINK THE WESTERN PART WITH THE EASTERN PART OF JAPAN IN ANCIENT TIMES. THIS REGION IS IMMERSED IN HISTORY, NATURE AND COLOURFUL TRADITIONAL CULTURE.
Absorb traditional Japanese beauty at the Omi Merchant’s ResidenceThe Omi merchants’ philosophy, “everybody doing well (e.g. seller, buyer and society)” has the same principle as “Sustainable Development Goals.” Many luxurious merchant houses represent the flourishing merchant’s culture and the simplicity and frugality of the ancient Japanese lifestyle. It brilliantly conveys both contrastive aspects of the good old times of Japan.
Enoy the stunning colour scheme of Nunobikiyaki PotteryThe Nunobikiyaki pottery is a modern version of Ryokusaitoki pottery (green coloured pottery) which was made during the Heian Period but was discontinued one thousand years ago. The Nunobikiyaki features beautiful colours which are created by a particular technique, “Shichisaitenmoku.”
Hitomi-SansoThe Hitomi-sanso is a traditional-style private lodging house and accommodates just one group per day. The building represents traditional Japanese architecture which features an old thatched roof and thick pine beams.
Hyakusai-ji TempleWe have prepared an exclusive tour to provide an authentic experience of Omi ’s tradition and culture, which is held in a drawing room of Hyakusai-ji, one of the oldest temples, built 1,400 years ago.
Special Experience Programme provided by Knowbyheart
A one day tour which provides you with a fantastic insight into this ancient culture with an exclusive service. The highlight of this programme is authentic worship. A prayer for victory is performed in the private hall, which is opened exclusively for you. Single worship allows only a pair of guests to attend. During the tour, you listen to an exciting talk made by a Shinto priest about the history of Japanese shrines and the Tarobo shrine itself. Moreover, Mt Akagami is famous for moon viewing. Notably, the autumn moon from September to November is incredible. An annual event called “Kangetsukai” is held to admire the moon and appreciate the good harvest of the year. The ancient soothing music and a magnificent moon will be a part of your unforgettable memory of your life (an extra charge is required).
ITINERARY1. Introduction to Mt Akagami2. Special prayer 3. Japanese cultural experience 4. Ancient Japanese court dance and music (optional)5. Omi beef dinner (optional)
Booking essential. For more details, please visit Knowbyheart.
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A stunning 12m tall weeping cherry sitting atop a small
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CONTENTS
08
Fall-leaf CampingRANDY POEHLMANSerene spots to pitch a tent and take in autumn views.
10
Treasures of Tamba SasayamaOpt out of the crowds and rejuvenate in the Hyogo countryside.
14
Life of a SwordsmithA 33-year-old Hashimoto man devotes his life to swordmaking.
20
Kansai Performing ArtsARIA AOYAMAThe Noh connection with the autumn season.
22
Discover IbarakiLOUISE GEORGE KITTAKAExplore the mountains, gorges, and seascapes of northern Ibaraki.
30
Nagano’s Salty SecretsThe mysterious saltwater springs of Oshika-mura.
KANSAI FINDER
32Events & Festivals
36Sights & Attractions
38Art & Exhibitions
40Live Music
42Clubs & Nightlife
44Food & Drink
48Getting Around / Maps
14
9
Wh
at’s On
Gu
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10
AutumnSep/Oct /Nov
AND MUCH MORE…
CHECK OUT KANSAISCENE.COM FOR MORE FEATURES AND KANSAI TRAVEL INFO
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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 5
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Autumn
This autumn, we take you on a tour of one of Kansai’s rural gems—the historical district of
Tamba Sasayama (p 10). An old pocket of Japan well-known for its pottery, a younger genera-tion of budding entrepreneurs is bringing a new energy to the region opening small businesses like brewpubs, cafes, cycle shops, and more. We also catch up with a young swordsmith in Katsuragi, Wakayama who is on a mission to continue the traditional Japa-nese art of katana forging (p 14). Traveling north to catch some leafy views, our writer Louise George Kittaka shows us around the lesser-explored region of
Northern Ibaraki, which boasts some spectacular autumn scenery (p 22). And if you’re up for a lo-cal outdoor adventure this fall, check out our Kansai camping recommendations for some top spots to take in the red and gold vistas (p 08). There’s plenty of action on the festivals front this season including Hyogo’s famed fighting festival which returns to Matsubara Hachiman Shrine this October 14th and 15th (p 09). Stay up-to-date with a full list of Kansai events and festivals on the Kansai Finder page of our website. And for reminders of what’s happen-ing in the region every week, sign up for our weekly e-newsletters at kansaiscene.com.
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
CELIA POLKINGHORNE
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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 7
DISCOVER
Kansai Fall CampingSee the best of the autumn leaves without
joining the masses.
TEXT: RANDY POEHLMAN
KYUKAMURA OMIHACHIMAN, SHIGA
This campground is located on the shores of Lake Biwa. The hotel and campground complex features a swimming pool, beach, kayaking, and wide-open spaces with beautiful lake views. There are also restaurants available in the Kyukamura village hotels. The nearest train station is Omi-Hachiman but public transportation access to the village is via shuttle bus.ACCESS: Shuttle bus from JR Omihachiman Stn • TEL: 0748-32-3138 • qkamura.or.jp/ohmi/camp
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If you’re eager to see nature’s blazing
autumn show but less thrilled about lining up with the crowds, consider an autumn
camping trip to one of these picture-perfect
Kansai locations.
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KASAGI, KYOTO
Kasagi Campground in Kyoto Prefecture is known for its accessible location and serene riverside setting. The camp is located next to Kasagi-ohashi Bridge which runs over the Kizugawa River. Kasagi is also known for its direct public transportation access, just a five-minute walk from JR Kasagi Station. The campsites can be rocky, so if you are planning on sleeping in a tent, a groundsheet and a sleeping mat are recommended. There are washroom facilities and a nearby onsen.ACCESS: JR Kasagi Stn • TEL: 0743-95-2011 • kasagi.kyoto-fsci.or.jp
MORI-NO-TERRACE, OSAKA
Located in North Osaka near Nose; this campground has a variety of options from traditional camping to the modern “glamping” for those who prefer to camp with a little more comfort. The location is along highway 173 and is next to the Yamabe River. Nose Onsen is also close by providing campers with an extra bit of luxury.ACCESS: by car • TEL: 090-8863-6974 • mori-no-terrace.com
SHIAWASE-NO-MURA, HYOGO
This campground is situated in a large park in Kobe and is ideal for campers with families as there is a lot of kids’ playground equipment in the park. The well-maintained bathrooms and nearby onsen and supermarket make camping life easy. It is located a few kilometers from Nishisuzurandai Station.ACCESS: Shinsetsu line, Nishisuzurandai Stn • TEL: 078-743-8000 • shiawasenomura.org
KUMANO KODO, WAKAYAMA
For more experienced campers who like to do multi-day hikes and treks with their tent and gear on their backs, the iconic Kumano-Kodo pilgrimage routes on the Kii Peninsula are sure to delight with the autumn foliage. There are various campgrounds along the routes and many wild camp spots to be found. The trails are popular and common trailheads include Kii-Tanabe, Koyasan, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hongu Taisha.ACCESS: JR Kiitanabe Stn; Nankai Koyasan Stn; JR Kiikatsuura Stn; or by car
WHAT’S ON
WHEN THE GODS CLASH Japan’s most epic fighting festival returns to Himeji.
TEXT: KS
At Hyogo’s most action-packed festival—the Nada no Kenka Matsuri (Fighting Festival)—spectators revel in watching
groups of revved-up men hoist palan-quins onto their shoulders and crash them ferociously against one another. The aim is to topple opposing palanquins and be the last one standing.
Held every year on the 14th and 15th of October at Matsubara Hachiman Shrine in the suburb of Shirahama, Himeji City, this two-day event is the largest of Japan’s fighting festivals, at-tracting over 100,000 visitors each year. The exact origins of this event have be-come somewhat lost to history, but one theory is that the crashing of the floats and palanquins mimics a great sea bat-tle derived from the legend of Empress Jingu’s (169–269) military expedition to Korea. Regardless of the genesis of this Shinto festival, the significance is that the winners are blessed with a bounti-ful harvest, good fortune, and of course, bragging rights.
Men from the seven villages of Kiba, Matsubara, Nakamura, Mega, Usazaki, Higashiyama, and Yaka compete for this honor, dressed in only a fundoshi (loincloth), jika-tabi (split toe boots), and a colored hachimaki (headband) designat-ing their local allegiance. The main part of the festival where the shrine-crashing action takes place is on the 15th—the
second of the two days. On the 14th, Shinto purification rituals are performed in preparation for the following day.
The climax of the festival in the afternoon on the 15th is known as yatai-awase, where the incredibly ornate two-ton yatai balanced on the shoulders of hoards of men collide at full tilt. This is when the pandemonium truly begins and it takes place at Otabiyama—a hilltop area with a large outdoor arena setup. The chaos carries on until sun-down when the yatai are carried all the way to the top of Otabiyama. There, they are illuminated by hanging lanterns and then paraded down before the crowds once more. After the last of the jousting, one village is declared the winner, and the rest are left to lick their wounds. But the party carries on into the night with triumphant victors, languishing losers, and sloshed spectators gathering togeth-er for their last hurrah before dawn.
While the festival is free for anyone to attend, the box seating for the Matsub-ara Hachiman Shrine leg of the fights is reserved for residents and families of the participants. For the Otabiyama leg, it’s first in-best spot. Despite its large size, this festival still retains an authentic and down-to-earth atmosphere. Locals are quick to share their snacks and sake, which flows aplenty for both spectators and participants.
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Oct 14 & 15
HYOGO
Nada no Kenka Matsuri灘のけんか祭りMatsubara Hachiman Shrine, Himeji
Time: 11am Oct 14 at Matsubara Hachiman Shrine9am Oct 15 at Matsubara Hachiman Shrine then OtabiyamaAdmission: Free • Access: Sanyo Line, Shirahamanomiya Stn, 5-min walk • nadamatsuri.jp
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 9
The TreasuresOF
TAMBA SASAYAMA
Discover the delights of one of Hyogo’s hidden gems.
TEXT: KS
FEATURE
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com10
STUNNING SUITS OF ARMOR ON DISPLAY AT SASAYAMA CASTLE
EXQUISITE PAINTED SCREENS LINE TATAMI MAT ROOMS AT THE OSHOIN IN SASAYAMA CASTLE
THE ANMA-FAMILY SAMURAI RESIDENCE MUSEUM HOUSES A COLLECTION OF EDO-PERIOD TOOLS AND HOME FURNISHINGS
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While so much of the action in Japan is concentrated in its big cities, Japanese rural towns are in some
senses making a comeback. In districts like Hyogo’s Tamba Sasayama, residents are working together with the local government to encourage young people to move to the area—or to return there if it’s where they grew up—to start their businesses and families. Don’t be sur-prised to drive down a quiet, seemingly sleepy street only to find a renovated kominka (traditional wooden house) converted into a hip craft beer brewpub, or a gourmet coffee house, or an art gal-lery and gift shop with a holistic therapy salon sitting atop.
Businesses like these, started by budding entrepreneurs looking to strengthen the local community and provide value to travelers and passersby, can be found in several pockets of Tamba Sasayama. This region provides a way of life that has eluded many young Japanese—fresh air, nature on the door-step, stillness, silence, plenty of time for contemplation. Above all, a sense of community and of knowing your neigh-bors. All of this is probably what makes it such a wonderful place to visit.
The city, about a 60-minute train ride northwest of Osaka, was created in 1999 through the merger of the former town of Sasayama as well as three other villages—Konda, Nishiki, and Tannan. In November 2018, the city held a suc-cessful referendum to change its name to Tamba Sasayama, referencing the historical Tamba Province that the city has been a part of. Best explored with a rental car (although possible using public trains and busses), this region makes a welcome retreat away from the
throngs of tourists packing the popular sightseeing spots in destinations like Kyoto. A place where you feel like you can experience the ‘real’ Japan, follow our itinerary for a perfect weekend in Tamba Sasayama.
DAY 1
VISIT SASAYAMA CASTLE
The first stop for anyone with an inter-est in Japanese history is Sasayama Cas-tle, or rather the remains of it. While the outer walls and moats are more or less intact, as with many Japanese castles these days, the remaining central structure—the Oshoin—is, in fact, a faith-fully reconstructed copy. The castle was hurriedly built in 1609 as a base from which to launch an attack on Osaka by none other than Tokugawa Ieyasu, who was more concerned with function over aesthetics, which is why a central tower for the castle was never constructed.
Today, the Oshoin serves as a museum where you can peruse artifacts in a se-ries of tatami (straw mat) rooms. For the full historical experience, you can even try on a set of samurai armor.
ROAM THE OLD SAMURAI RESIDENCE QUARTER
Just a short drive or 10-minute walk from the castle, visit Sasayama’s charm-ing old samurai residence quarter where many traditional thatched buildings have been painstakingly preserved. Here, the Anma-Family Samurai Residence Museum, a 200-year-old former samurai home, has a superb collection of Edo-period tools and home furnishings.
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 11
STROLL DOWN NIKAIMACHI SHOPPING STREET
Back in town, a wander along the Nikaimachi shopping street will take you past restaurants serving local delica-cies like botan nabe (wild boar hotpot) and Sasayama beef, and street-food vendors peddling roasted chestnuts in the cold months and kuromame (black bean) snacks year-round. The Tamba Sasayama History Museum is worth checking out to learn more about the area and its past.
PERUSE POTTERY ART AT TAMBA TRADITIONAL ART CRAFT PARK
For genuine pottery lovers, it’s well worth the effort to get out to Tamba Traditional Craft Park (Tachikui Sue-no-sato), a 20-minute drive outside the city. Set in the verdant, mountainous Tamba countryside, the park features a special nobori gama inclined kiln, which attracts artisans from all over the world. For a chance to make your own Tamba-yaki ceramics, book yourself into a pottery workshop.
On October 19th and 20th, visitors can browse and buy exquisite local ceramics and autumn foods during the Tamba Pottery Festival.
EAT LOCAL SOBA NOODLES
Slurp down a hearty bowl of yamanoimo tsuke tororo soba noodles served in the local style with a mashed yam and egg topping at the restaurant Hanakoushi in the Kawaramachi district.
CLIMB THE STAIRS TO OJIYAMA MAKEKIRAI INARI
According to legend, the rather unusual name of this shrine—Makekirai Inari, or the “hate to lose shrine”—was construct-ed in honor of a group of foxes who, sometime in the first half of the 19th century, took the form of sumo wres-tlers and participated in an important sumo competition in Tokyo to please the lord of Sasayama. (Foxes are regarded as a tutelary animal of Shinto shrines). Sasayama’s feudal lord at the time was known for his hatred of losing and was very pleased when these mysterious wrestlers won the competition on behalf
of his domain, which had not performed well in the sumo previously. Nowadays, this shrine is said to be good luck for anyone who walks up through the tun-nel of vermilion torii gates and prays for success in sports competitions, passing exams, business, and job-hunting. There is a beautiful view from the top next to the shrine.
STAY A NIGHT IN THE POST TOWN OF FUKUSUMI
About a 20-minute drive from Kawara-machi, the Fukusumi district connected Sasayama and Kyoto in the Edo period (1603–1868) and was a popular over-night stop on this historic route. The old townscape still retains its Edo-period atmosphere from when its many ac-commodations opened their doors to travelers. There are several renovated and well-maintained traditional wooden houses that provide historic overnight lodgings for visitors to Fukusumi. Mori no fudo is one such house built around 200 years ago that rents to groups of up to five people for around ¥15,000 per night. Bookings can be made at morino-food.com P
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Autumn FestivalThe Tamba Sasayama Aji Matsuri (autumn flavors festival) will take place on October 12th, 13th, and 14th. During the event, visitors can enjoy local specialties like black soybean edamame, Tamba chestnuts, matsutake mushrooms, and wild boar in miso soup.
RIGHT: THE STRIKING TORII GATES OF MAKEKIRAI INARI SHRINE
ABOVE: SOBA NOODLES SERVED WITH A MASHED YAM AND EGG TOPPING
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DAY 2
START THE MORNING WITH FRESHLY GROUND COFFEE
Wander over to the spacious cafe and roasting house Magnum Coffee and start your day with the best cup of joe in Tamba Sasayama.
GET A RELAXING HERBAL TREATMENT
Head to Holistic Mugwort and meet your natural therapy specialist 32-year-old Maya Adachi who uses plants and herbs grown in the Tamba Sasayama region to provide relief from and heal-ing of various skin and body ailments. She is an expert in massage and body tapping techniques as well as a variety of herbal treatments. While you wait for your appointment, shop for rare souvenirs in the quaint gallery and gift shop downstairs, Littleleaf, run by Adachi’s husband.
RENT A BICYCLE AND EXPLORE THE REGION ON TWO WHEELS
Despite being flanked by mountains, the Tamba Sasayama town areas are relatively flat, making the roads perfect for cycling. Drop into the Green Cross Road bicycle shop and cafe and choose from the vast array of bikes on the advice of Daisuke Murakami, a huge cycling enthusiast who has even assisted the Japan national cycling team during past competitions. At Green Cross Road, road bikes, mountain bikes, and regular town riding bikes are available for rent, plus there are maintenance, repair, and customization options if you happen to turn up with your own set of wheels. Ask Daisuke for his recommendations on the best cycling routes around the district.
WIND DOWN WITH A CRAFT BEER
After a long afternoon of biking, head over to Tamba Sasayama Tabijino Brewery’s newly opened rustic craft beer brewpub for a glass of their pilsner, pale ale, weizen, or stout.
TANBASASAYAMA.COM
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Getting ThereFrom Osaka, take a rapid train on the JR Fukuchiyama/Takarazuka line to Sasayamaguchi Station. Stop by the Tamba Sasayama Tourist Station to pick up handy maps and leaflets for exploring the region. From the station, take the Shinki bus for 15 mins and get off at the Nikaimachi stop. From there you can enjoy Sasayama on foot, beginning with the castle.
HERBAL RELAXATION AT HOLISTIC MUGWORT.
RIGHT: STAY IN A TRADITIONAL HOUSE IN FUKUSUMI
RENT A BIKE FROM GREEN CROSS ROAD AND EXPLORE ON TWO WHEELS
Find it… Sasayama Castle 2-3 Kitashinmachi; withsasayama.jp • Anma-Family Samurai Residence Museum 95 Nishi-shinmachi; withsasayama.jp/REKIBUN/anma_top.htm • Tamba Sasayama City Historical Museum 53 Gofukumachi; withsasayama.jp • Tamba Traditional Craft Park 3 Kamitachikui Kondacho; tanbayaki.
com • Hanakoushi 160 Kawaramachi; hanakoushi.jugem.jp • Makekirai Inari 92 Kawaramachi; makekirai.com • Mori no fudo 194-1 Kawara; morinofood.com • Magnum Coffee 317 Fukusumi; magnum-millpour.com • Holistic Mugwort 379-2 Fukusumi; tanbasasayama.com/2019/03/20/holistic-mugwort • Green Cross Road 372 Fukusumi; high-lander2.com • Tabijino Brewery 385 Fukusumi; t-brewery.jp
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 13
FEATURE
THE ART of the
KatanaFrom his workshop in the hills of Wakayama, this fresh-faced swordsmith endeavors to protect a dying Japanese art.
TEXT: KS
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com14
Stationed in a waist-high con-crete pit measuring roughly two-by-two meters at his Kat-suragi workshop in Wakayama,
33-year-old swordmaker Hamakawa Sadasumi stands face-to-face with a fiery forge. Reaching searing temperatures of 1,300 to 1,500 degrees, this blazing fur-nace is where the magic of Hamakawa’s sword crafting begins.
Dressed in classic white workman’s attire, including white tabi socks and wooden geta clogs, he patiently stokes the flames with a long-handled poker before swiftly withdrawing a chunk of superheated tamahagane steel from the furnace. Meaning “jewel steel,” tamahagane is produced from iron sand, a source of iron ore. Hamakawa sources his tamahagane from Shimane Prefecture, where one mountain town is now the exclusive source for the top-quality steel needed by craftsmen who make swords.
Placing the red-hot hunk of steel carefully on an anvil, he begins to vigorously hammer the glowing brick using a loud hammering machine then several handheld chisels, sending showers of incandescent sparks flying across the workshop floor. The forged tamahagane is folded transversely and longitudinally many times. It is heated and then cooled by water at each stage, which oxidizes the steel surface. Remov-ing these oxidized layers reduces the steel’s impurities.
All this is before painstakingly shap-ing the blade using an array of hammers and chisels. Hamakawa explains the most crucial aspect of making a sword, apart from removing as many impuri-ties as possible from the tamahagane, is molding the tip of the blade correctly.
“There’s nothing easy about any of the steps, but the most critical is the tip of the sword. If you mess that up, you can’t use any of the blade—you have to start all over again. It can all be over in 10 minutes.”
Adding a further layer of difficulty, there are basically no directions or formulas left to make ancient swords. “There’s no template for making that curve—it all has to come from memoriz-
ing what I was taught from my master during my apprenticeship.”
Hashimoto-born Hamakawa decided at high-school age that he wanted to eschew the typical corporate path that most Japanese youth follow these days. He wanted to forge a career out of making something with his hands, and finally sought out his sensei (master)—re-nowned swordmaker Gasan Sadatoshi from Nara Prefecture—who he would apprentice under for eight years.
During these eight laborious years, he learned the life of a swordsmith is a ritual of scalding heat, hard labor, and the unstinting pursuit of perfec-tion. But the passion was instilled in him, and after passed his swordsmith examination and receiving permission to produce Japanese swords in his own style, he set up his workshop where he will endeavor to honor and uphold this dying Japanese art.
“It wasn’t until I started doing it that I realized I was going to become part of a movement of protecting a tradi-tional Japanese craft,” he said. There are around 300 registered swordmakers in the country but probably only about 10 percent of those are making swords on a regular basis. For those few involved in katana production today, the samurai blade embodies the supremely honed workmanship for which Japanese crafts-men are renowned across the world.
Hamakawa at 33 is one of the young-est and plans to take on an apprentice himself one day.
Working two to three days a week in his workshop, Hamakawa says he could make two swords a month, but he usu-ally only makes them to order, meaning he makes just a handful every year.
Buyers are most often Japanese or for-eign collectors with a love of traditional Japanese swords. Some customers even buy his swords to display in their homes as a symbol of spiritual protection. A single, high-quality katana sword can cost anywhere from one million yen (US $9,000) to several million yen.
A soft-spoken, humble young man, Hamakawa says he wants more people to know about and appreciate the beauty of Japanese swords. He occasion-
ally holds workshops and viewings for visitors to Wakayama who are interested in seeing the swordmaking process first-hand. For a chance to visit him at his workshop and watch him forge his blades, contact Koyasanroku DMO*.
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Follow Hamakawa Sadasumi:Website: japan-katana.com Facebook: hamakawakatanaKoyasanroku DMOTel: +81-736-33-3922Email : [email protected]
*Official Destination Management Organization of the Koya Region
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 15
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
PERSIMMON PARADISEWe all know the saying that an apple a day keeps the doctor away. Well, in Japan, when the persimmons are red, the doctor becomes blue…
TEXT: KS
The saying is thanks to the many and varied health benefits of persimmons (kaki). The round, orange-colored fruits are the symbol of autumn in Japan, so now is the time to take full advantage!
Originally from China, persimmon trees have been grown for thousands of years and the Hashimoto region of Wakayama is one of the biggest persimmon growing areas of the country. Known for their sweet, honey-like flavor, premium kaki are highly prized in Japan.
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Health BenefitsTeeming with vita-mins, minerals, and fiber, here are some of the health perks of eat-ing persimmons.
• Loaded with nutrientsPersimmons pack an impressive vitamin punch with one serving providing 55% of the RDI (recommended daily intake) of Vitamin A, 22% of Vitamin C, and 30% of manganese.• A powerful source of antioxidantsKaki are an excellent source of powerful antioxidants like carotenoids and flavonoids. Diets rich in these compounds have been linked to a reduced risk of certain diseases, including heart disease and diabetes.• Great for gut healthPersimmons contain loads of fiber, which is good for digestion, containing almost 20% of the daily requirement in a single serving. Fiber-rich foods like persimmons can help lower cholesterol, reduce blood sugar levels and keep your digestive system healthy. Plus, fiber helps fuel the “good bacteria” in your intestines, which enhances your digestive and overall health.*A tip from Hashimoto persimmon farmer Kouhei Ohara: eating at least two persimmons before a night on the booze is an effective hangover prevention!
Recipe TipsNot only are persimmons great for our bodies, they are super tasty and pair well with both sweet and savory foods. Here are some delicious ideas for incorporating kaki into your daily cooking.
• Top your morning yogurt or oatmeal with fresh or cooked persimmon for a burst of natural sweetness.• Broil persimmon and serve with baked Brie cheese for a tasty appetizer.• Slice kaki onto a salad for extra flavor (pairs particularly well with baby spinach and ricotta cheese).• Bake persimmons with chicken or meat for a unique flavor combination.• Roast them in the oven and drizzle with honey for a tasty and healthy dessert.• Grate fresh persimmon and mix it into muffin, bread or cake mix.• Combine with berries and citrus fruits for a delicious fruit salad.
“Hashimoto city, lying in the shadow of Mt. Koya, experiences the perfect weather conditions for growing sweet persimmons. Warm with a little rain, with sunny afternoons and cool nights. We pride ourselves on producing only the finest persimmons on our farm, monitoring their exposure to sunlight and ensuring the perfect firmness of the fruit. Aside from freshly picked fruit, I recommend Wakayama Persimmon Pudding as a way to enjoy the persimmon at their best. Join us in December for a special Persimmon event!*”– Kouhei Ohara Ksfarm, Hashimoto, Wakayama Website: ks-farm.com Email: [email protected]
WAKAYAMA PERSIMMON PUDDING*Details on kansaiscene.com
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com16
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Botan nabe (wildbore hot pot)
Tamba Sasyama black beans
Tourism ambassadors
Mascot character Maruino
Kasuga shrine Noh stage
Maruyama vil lage
創T a m b a S a s a y a m aT r a d i t i o n a l , y e t I n n o v a t i v e ! !
Tamba Sasayama, a member city of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network, maintains its traditional culture and rustic nature, yet embraces new ideas and possibilities allowing innovative interactions to burgeon in every corner of the city.
Blessed with rich culture, nature, and culinary delights, Tamba Sasayama makes your stay magical!
Address 165-1 Ozawa, Sasayama, Hyogo, 669-2212 Directly linked from JR Sasayamaguchi Station
Tel 079-590-2077
Email [email protected] UR L https://visit.sasayama.jp/en
FREE Wi - Fi
Ta m b a S a s a y a m a To u r i s t S t a t i o nVisit us to gain the latest information on sightseeing, local events, accommodation, and more! English speaking sta� members are always stationed here to welcome you!!
KobeJCT
YokawaJCT
MikiJCT
SuitaJCT
AyabeJCT
KIX
UKB
ITMITM
TKG
Hyogo
Kyoto
Kyoto
Tennoji
Sonobe
JR Sanin Main Line
Osaka
Nara
WakayamaWakayama
Sakaishi
OsakaAmagasakiAmagasakiNishinomiya
Sumiyoshi
Kobe
Akashi
Kakogawa
Himeji
Tanikawa
SasayamaguchiSasayamaguchi
FukuchiyamaAyabe
Wadayama
ToyookaKinosaki OnsenKinosaki Onsen
Higashimaizuru
JR Maizuru LineJR Maizuru Line
Fukui
ObamaJR Sanin Main Line
Takeda
JR Fukuchiyama Line
JR B
anta
n Lin
e
JR K
akog
awa L
ine
TambaSasayama-cityTambaSasayama-city
ArimaOnsen
TannanSasayamaguchiJCT
TannanSasayamaguchiJCT
JR Osaka Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station
Osaka → Hanshin Expressway → Ikeda IC → Chugoku Expressway → Yokawa IC → Maizuru Wakase Expressway → Tannan Sasayamaguchi IC
AccessFrom Osaka
about 60 min by Train
about 50 min by Car
JR Sannomiya Station → JR Amagasaki Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station
Kobe → Shinkobe Tu nnel → Hanshin Expressway Kitakobe Line / Minotani IC → Rokkoukita Tollway → Chugoku Expressway / KobeSa nda IC → Maizu ru Wakasa Expressway / Tannan Sasayamaguchi IC
From Kobe
about 80 min by Train
about 90 min by Car
JR Kyoto Station → JR Amagasaki Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station
Kobe → Route 9 → Kyoto Jyukan Highway → Route 372
From Kobe
about 110 min by Train
about 60 min by Car
Botan nabe (wildbore hot pot)
Tamba Sasyama black beans
Tourism ambassadors
Mascot character Maruino
Kasuga shrine Noh stage
Maruyama vil lage
創T a m b a S a s a y a m aT r a d i t i o n a l , y e t I n n o v a t i v e ! !
Tamba Sasayama, a member city of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network, maintains its traditional culture and rustic nature, yet embraces new ideas and possibilities allowing innovative interactions to burgeon in every corner of the city.
Blessed with rich culture, nature, and culinary delights, Tamba Sasayama makes your stay magical!
Address 165-1 Ozawa, Sasayama, Hyogo, 669-2212 Directly linked from JR Sasayamaguchi Station
Tel 079-590-2077
Email [email protected] UR L https://visit.sasayama.jp/en
FREE Wi - Fi
Ta m b a S a s a y a m a To u r i s t S t a t i o nVisit us to gain the latest information on sightseeing, local events, accommodation, and more! English speaking sta� members are always stationed here to welcome you!!
KobeJCT
YokawaJCT
MikiJCT
SuitaJCT
AyabeJCT
KIX
UKB
ITMITM
TKG
Hyogo
Kyoto
Kyoto
Tennoji
Sonobe
JR Sanin Main Line
Osaka
Nara
WakayamaWakayama
Sakaishi
OsakaAmagasakiAmagasakiNishinomiya
Sumiyoshi
Kobe
Akashi
Kakogawa
Himeji
Tanikawa
SasayamaguchiSasayamaguchi
FukuchiyamaAyabe
Wadayama
ToyookaKinosaki OnsenKinosaki Onsen
Higashimaizuru
JR Maizuru LineJR Maizuru Line
Fukui
ObamaJR Sanin Main Line
Takeda
JR Fukuchiyama Line
JR B
anta
n Lin
e
JR K
akog
awa L
ine
TambaSasayama-cityTambaSasayama-city
ArimaOnsen
TannanSasayamaguchiJCT
TannanSasayamaguchiJCT
JR Osaka Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station
Osaka → Hanshin Expressway → Ikeda IC → Chugoku Expressway → Yokawa IC → Maizuru Wakase Expressway → Tannan Sasayamaguchi IC
AccessFrom Osaka
about 60 min by Train
about 50 min by Car
JR Sannomiya Station → JR Amagasaki Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station
Kobe → Shinkobe Tu nnel → Hanshin Expressway Kitakobe Line / Minotani IC → Rokkoukita Tollway → Chugoku Expressway / KobeSa nda IC → Maizu ru Wakasa Expressway / Tannan Sasayamaguchi IC
From Kobe
about 80 min by Train
about 90 min by Car
JR Kyoto Station → JR Amagasaki Station → JR Sasayamaguchi Station
Kobe → Route 9 → Kyoto Jyukan Highway → Route 372
From Kobe
about 110 min by Train
about 60 min by Car
紅葉
TRADITIONAL PERFORMING ARTS IN KANSAI
Noh & MomijiAria Aoyama from The Japan Institute for Culture & International Exchange sat down with Yoshie Yamamoto from the acclaimed Yamamoto Noh Theater in Osaka to discuss Noh and its relationship with momiji - autumn leaves.
TEXT: KS
PRESENTED BY THE JAPAN
INSTITUTE FOR CULTURE &
INTERNATIONAL EXCHANGE
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com20
Yamamoto: Aria, have you ever heard of the “maple front”?
Aoyama: Yes, the autumn foliage front, akin to the spring cherry blossom front. The cherry blossom front travels from south to north, while the maple foliage front travels from north to south. Beginning in Hokkaido in early October, it works its way down the country until the last leaves turn red in Kagoshima in early December. I think Japan must be the only country that has a maple foliage and cherry blossom forecast! Japanese cherry blossoms have been renowned internationally for some time, but recently it is attracting attention for its stunning autumn leaves too.
Y: It is a gift from Japan’s topography and nature. Since the Manyo era, Japa-nese people have celebrated the autumn “momiji” lit. red leaves. There are actu-ally two different kanji characters that can be pronounced “momiji”. Maple leaves that turn yellow in the fall (黄葉) and those that turn red (紅葉). In popular literature of the time, yellow maple songs were more popular, but recently red maple are more popular in Japan.
A: I know there are Noh plays with cherry blossom themes, but are there plays that have autumn leaf themes too?
Y: Yes there are! “Tatsuta” and “Mom-iji-gari” (lit. autumn leaves hunting).
A: Ah, “Tatsuta” refers to the Tatsuta River in Mt. Ikoma doesn’t it, a famous mountain for autumn leaves?
Y: Aria, you know very well! The autumn leaves of the Tatsuta River are famous, and their beauty likened to the exquisite “Nishiki” silk textiles pro-duced in Kyoto. The play is a story about
the beauty of the autumn leaves of the Tatsuta River, and the Princess Tatsuta, the god of Tatsuta River who dances to bring peace to the country.
A: And “Momiji-gari” – is the popular pursuit of autumn leaves ‘hunting’ isn’t it. A custom that Japanese people have enjoyed since the Heian period over a thousand years ago.
Y: Yes, that’s right. The Noh play “Momiji-gari” begins in the mountains where beautiful women hold a feast in honour of the autumn leaves. Koremori Taira, a brave samurai passes by during a deer hunt, and is proffered with sake by the women. He drinks and soon falls asleep experiencing a dream in which a god appears and tells him that the beautiful women are in fact incarna-tions of demons! When he wakes up, sure enough the women transform into demons and attack him, but he is able to vanquish them. The play is set in Mount Togakushi, a famous place for autumn leaves in Nagano prefecture, and based on an ancient local legend. It warns of the age-old vulnerability men display concerning alcohol and beautiful women! “Momiji-gari” is a very popular Noh play, and has since been adapted into Bunraku and Kabuki productions.
A: Hehe. Always be careful with beau-tiful women and sake! I love the way Noh incorporates nature and real-life lessons into its rich narratives.
Y: Aria, I can’t wait for the autumn leaves. Let’s go to autumn leaves hunt-ing together!
A: I’m looking forward to it.
See a Noh PlaySPECIAL NOH PLAY “MOMIJI-GARI” (AUTUMN LEAVE HUNTING) WITH SUBTITLES IN ENGLISHOct 25, Yamamoto Noh Theater, OsakaTime: 7–9pm • Admission: ¥4,000 • noh-theater.com • Reservations: [email protected] • Tel: 06-6943-9454
EVENINGS OF TRADITIONAL JAPANESE PERFORMING ARTS IN OSAKAYamamoto Noh Theater, OsakaEnjoy four traditional performing arts in one night. Sep 7: (Chikuzen-Biwa, Comic-monologue with Shamisen, Narrative Ballads, Raugo)Oct 12: (Noh play, Kyogen, Story telling, Rakugo)Nov 30: (Noh play, Kyogen, Narrative Ballads, Rakugo)Dec 31: (New Year’s Eve Special)Time: 7–9pm • Admission: ¥3,500–¥5,500 • noh-theater.com • Reservations: [email protected] • Tel: 06-6943-9454
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A BEAUTIFUL HAND PAINTED FAN USED IN NOH PERFORMANCES
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 21
FALLING FOR AUTUMN INIbaraki
For a memorable autumn getaway filled with fall foliage and stunning seascapes, head for the
mountains and coastlines of Northern Ibaraki.
TEXT: LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA
TRAVEL
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com22
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PERCHED ON THE SHORES OF THE IZURA COAST, THIS HEXAGONAL STRUCTURE IS AN INSTAGRAM HOTSPOT
HANAZONO SHRINE
PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES ABOUND IN HANAZONO GORGE
Although Ibaraki Prefecture is part of the Kanto region, once you go north of Ibaraki, you enter Fukushima Prefecture
and the Tohoku area, and perhaps as a result, the charms of Ibaraki sometimes get overshadowed by higher-profile members of Kanto’s seven prefectures. Flanked by the Pacific Ocean and replete with mountains, waterfalls, and forests, Ibaraki offers a wealth of natural beauty. The northern region of the prefecture comes into its own in autumn, making it well worth a visit at this time of year.
Northern Ibaraki is an area best explored by car and the peak season for foliage varies from year to year but is generally mid-November. Two lovely foliage spots with similar names but different vibes are Hananuki Gorge and Hanazono Gorge. The more well-known of these is Hananuki, which is officially part of the city of Takahagi. The area runs from the Hananuki Dam to the Ko-takizawa Camping Ground, but the most popular section for travelers is centered around the picturesque wooden suspen-sion bridge of Shiomidaki Tsuribashi.
It doesn’t take long to reach the bridge from the parking lot, and once over the bridge, you can continue on a short hiking course through the forest,
which loops back to the beginning. On peak leaf-viewing weekends, there are several vendors selling various snacks and drinks, which make a good option for a casual lunch in a festival-like atmosphere
In contrast, Hanazono Gorge, which comes under Kita-Ibaraki City and is about 40 minutes north of Hananuki, seems to be a bit of a hidden gem. You will likely only share it with a handful of other leaf-peepers when visiting on a weekend during peak fall-leaf season. Next to the parking lot is the pictur-esque little Hanazono Shrine, and there are plenty of photo opportunities in the immediate vicinity with the magnifi-cent trees, a meandering stream, and small waterfalls. If you’re feeling more energetic, a hiking trail up into the forest begins just past the parking lot. There are no options for food nearby, but the shrine has a vending machine for drinks.
One of the advantages of northern Ibaraki is that you can easily move from forests and waterfalls to ocean vistas. Once you’ve had your fill of foliage, head over to the Izura Coast at the very northern edge of the prefecture for fresh, salty sea air and some unusual architecture. “Izura” means “five inlets”
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 23
HITACHI SEASIDE PARK
THE FLUFFY RED BUSHES OF THE SUMMER CYPRESS ARE A POPULAR AUTUMN DRAW
FUKURODA FALLS
ONE OF JAPAN’S TOP THREE WATERFALLS
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and perched on a cliff is the area’s most famous building, the six-sided Rok-kakudo pagoda. It was designed and built in 1905 by the artist, writer, and scholar Tenshin Okakura (1862–1913) as a space where he and his students could hold tea ceremonies and contemplate. Okakura’s admiration for Chinese cul-ture and architecture is evident in the design. The original was washed away in the tsunami that hit much of northern Japan in 2011 but was painstakingly recreated to honor the original design and reopened in the spring of 2012.
To get the full effect of the beauty of Rokkakudo against the backdrop of the ocean, turn left back on the main road and walk 500 meters to Izura Misaki Park to take in the view from the top of the hill.
It’s also well worth visiting the nearby Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art to learn more about his many talents. Tenshin Okakura was born in Yokohama and his interest in art, philosophy and other cultures lead to travel around the world. He fell in love with the Izura area and settled here in later life, promoting his students and their families to join him. His writings in English helped to spread knowledge about Japanese art and culture to the West, and he chal-
lenged and inspired the younger artists he mentored to break new ground. English audio guides are available at the museum, and the on-site Camellia Café offers light meals and drinks.
When driving along the coast of northern Ibaraki, a great little place to stop for lunch or afternoon coffee is Sea-ne, a sunny café located at the beachside Unoshima Villa pension in Hitachi. A family-run business, it was completely rebuilt after being destroyed by the 2011 tsunami. While the Tohoku area bore the brunt of the damage from the tsunami, this area of Ibaraki suf-fered, too. The café uses local vegetables and seafood to create their dishes, and homemade cakes are also on offer. When you’re done, take a walk along the private beach in front.
If you want to spend more time in northern Ibaraki and don’t mind the crowds, the Fukuroda Falls in the Daigo region are worth a visit. Impressive both in height (120 m) and width (73 m), they are acclaimed as one of Japan’s “top three falls” and draw a lot of visitors at any time of the year, but particularly in the fall foliage season. A 20-minute drive from there is the Tsukimachi Waterfall, which is a lot less crowded. The interest-
ing aspect here is that you can walk behind the cascade for a unique view.
A little closer to Tokyo is the Hitachi Seaside Park, which is popular with all ages for its amusement rides and expansive flower fields. In autumn, an unusual flower called the kochia (sum-mer cypress) becomes the star of the show. Its heads turn into fluffy red balls that look a little like minor characters in a Muppet movie. Autumn cosmos are also in bloom around the same time, so there are plenty of photo opportunities here, but note the peak for the flowers is usually October, so it won’t overlap with the foliage spots in the area. The park is huge and if you end up in an overflow parking lot, be prepared to do a lot of walking. If you’re planning to visit on a weekend, arrive as early as you can to secure a parking spot. KS
GETTING THEREFrom Shin-Osaka Station or Kyoto Station, take the shinkansen to Tokyo Station. Then take the Limited Express Hitachi or Limited Express Tokiwa to Mito Station. Finally, transfer to the JR Joban line to Takahagi Station.
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com24
WHAT’S ON
From Saturday, October 26 until Thursday, November 14, the 71st Annual Exhibition of Shoso-in Treasures will be held at the Nara
National Museum in commemoration of the enthronement of the new Emperor, with special support from Yomiuri Shim-bun newspaper.
This year’s Shoso-in exhibition will be held for three days longer than past exhibitions in celebration of this special occasion, and will last 20 days in total. A selection of 41 objects will be on display—Shoso-in treasures conveying histories of cultural exchange across the Silk Road.
It will be the first time in 20 years that the whole six-panel folding screen of Torige Ritsujo-no-Byobu (with bird feathers decorating the painting of a lady under a tree) will be displayed, which depicts a beautiful woman dressed in the Tang style. The name derives from the Yama-dori mountain bird feather brocade that was used for the trees and clothing parts. It is a masterpiece representative of the Tang Culture.
The Red-Lacquered Keyaki Cabinet with Fine-Grain Pattern that has been passed
down for generations since Emperor Tenmu’s times will also be on display. Among the pieces likely draw high atten-tion is the treasured largest silver platter in Shoso-in, the Kingin-no-Kaban. It is a silver flower-shaped platter with a deer at its core, and ornamented with glass balls hanging around the rim.
The treasures of Shoso-in started when the Emperor Shomu passed away and Empress Komyo offered the late emperor’s beloved items to the Great Buddha in Nara’s Todaiji Temple. A shoso in ancient times served as a warehouse repository and Shoso-in was one of these. Currently, this is the only remaining shoso at Todaiji Temple, and measures 33 meters in length, and 14 meters in height. The treasures were housed in large hitsu cabi-nets made of cedarwood and the humid-ity levels were strictly monitored. With the start of the Meiji era in the late 19th century, the Shoso-in was placed under the protection and administration of the Imperial Household Agency and the Meiji government. In 1955, the treasures were moved to a reinforced concrete storehouse where they have remained ever since.
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71st Annual Exhibition of Shoso-in Treasures御即位記念第71回正倉院展
OCT 26–NOV 14 • NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM
OPEN: Daily from 9am–6pm (Open until 8pm Fri, Sat, Sun & national holidays. Last admission is 30 minutes before closing.) • ADMISSION:
¥1,100 for adults; ¥700 for high-school and university students; ¥400 for elementary and junior-high-school students. Prices are reduced by ¥100 for advance tickets (on sale until Oct 25) or for groups of at least 20. Admission is FREE on Nov 14. “Autumn late” discount tickets to visit the museum 90 minutes before closing can be purchased 2.5 hours before it closing time. They are priced at ¥800, ¥500, and ¥200, respectively. An advance pair of tickets for an adult visiting with a child of elementary or junior-high-school age costs ¥1,100 • TEL:
050-5542-8600 • www.narahaku.go.jp/english
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 25
KS caught up with Masanao Fuyuhiro, CEO of Ifing Co., Ltd. – the company behind re-generative haircare treatment
brand Tokio Inkarami, at the immersive art project ‘Digitized Forest’ in Kyoto. We were joined by Toshiyuki Inoko, founder of the art collective behind the project – teamLab, and learned how the unlikely collaboration between the two came about.
KS: First of all, what connection is there between your globally renowned hair care range and a cutting edge art project in Kyoto?
Fuyuhiro: Well, we all have different inspirations and influences, but two that have appealed to me personally, are sports and the arts. We sponsor many international sporting competitions, including figure skating, gymnastics, and major league baseball. These sports all require a high degree of mastery,
creativity, and all share a certain athletic beauty. They also have an established history, while projecting a strong vision of the future, always exploring and inno-vating. This is also true for the arts that we sponsor or to be specific, the work of Inoko-san and his teamLab collective. This is now our second year running to sponsor their Digitized Forest event here in Kyoto.
I was initially struck by their Border-less exhibition in Tokyo. It made me realise that in today’s socially-connected world, experience is not limited to the individual. The artworks are experi-enced secondhand too, in some kind of shared experience, via the millions of photos uploaded to social media networks. I really feel that it is the thing now, and that TeamLab captures that nowness in its very essence. I like to think that Tokio Inkarami is also at the forefront of innovation in our own field.
KS: Tokio Inkarami has come to be considered something akin to a miracle product in the haircare industry around the globe, with top stylists, world renowned magazines, and undercover beauty reviewers all raving about it. Can you tell us a bit about the brand?
Fuyuhiro: If I had to describe it in short, I would say that it is the world’s finest hair treatment - combining the best of Japanese technical prowess and beauty knowhow. When I started this brand in 2003, I already had a team of researchers working on the product but it took us nearly 10 years of research to perfect what is now a patented technology.
In just 2 years it became the top sell-ing product amongst salons in Japan and now is found in many of the top salons across the globe, including the salon at the Ritz Hotel in Paris, Hotel Crillon, Four Seasons Moscow, just to name a few.
BUSINESS TALK
HI-TECH HAIR CARE MEETS HI-TECH INSTALLATION ART
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Why global hair care brand Tokio Inkarami supports the arts.
TEXT: KS
TOKIO INKARAMI SPONSORS TEAMLAB’S DIGITIZED FOREST EVENT AT KYOTO’S WORLD HERITAGE SHIMOGAMO SHRINE
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com26
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KS: What do you think has made your product so successful?
Fuyuhiro: Well, I must humbly say that success is yet to come… but what I believe is at the core of what has been achieved so far, is having had the privilege of hearing the opinions of top stylists across Japan, to know what they were really seeking. So we were able to create a product that fulfilled a real need, and market it effectively. We didn’t have a large sales team, but relied instead on visiting top salons directly and focused on bringing this product to a very targeted audience. I think this was key in becoming a top domestic brand in such a short time.
In terms of the international market, though we always had a vision to bring our brand to a global audience (hence the name ‘Tokio’ as in Tokyo), origi-nally I thought that we would mostly appeal to the Asian market. We began in Korea, but actually next was Paris! With such a tradition of beauty and fashion I didn’t think that our products would be relevant to the French market. But to my surprise, we found there was actually an opportunity for Asian beauty products in the country. We developed our treatment for Japanese hair, and the stresses of the Japananese climate, but the product also worked wonders on westerners hair as well. To the extent that it has been dubbed something of a revolution.
KS: You mentioned you chose the name ‘Tokio’ as internationally it repre-sented something Japanese.
Fuyuhiro: Indeed. When I was think-ing about names, we already had the vision of making it a globally renowned brand, and I had a choice of two names in mind. One was Tokio and the other Kyoto - where it all started, and where I grew up. Internationally Tokyo and Kyoto are the most well known Japanese cities, but I eventually I chose Tokio since as I was growing up, I considered Kyoto to be a bit too conservative. Now I realise that Kyoto is a guardian of traditions, and that what Kyoto has preserved, appeals to the world.
KS: Inoko-san. Your amazingly im-mersive teamLab Borderless experience in Odaiba has attracted record break-
ing audiences. Could you tell us a bit about it?
Inoko: Actually, we have just been named the world’s most popular single-artist destination, surpassing the Van Gogh museum and the Dali Museum that have long held the top spots. We had over 2 million people visit in the last year since we opened!
The whole museum is literally with-out borders, playing an essential role in connecting the sixty something works that are housed there. It’s an immersive space where people are able to wander freely. We seem to have created a world in which so many borders exist, but actually it is an invented concept in our brains. It may be that we humans cannot comprehend the world in its continuity, wholeness - a possible limitation of our brains. I wanted people to experience a space that transcends borders.
Fuyuhiro: This borderless concept is also a theme of the Digitized Forest pro-ject too, but in a slightly different way.
Inoko: Yes, just as people tend to not be able to relate to the continuum of space, but the same is true for time. We can only relate to the time that we have lived, with the rest being something we learn or read about. We can comprehend 100 years intellectually, but our bodies struggle to comprehend without direct
experience. This is why I chose to bring our work to the UNESCO World Heritage Shimogamo shrine, a place steeped in history and one of the oldest shrines in Japan, its landscape shaped over centu-ries. Many of the trees are over 600 years old! I wanted to create a place that al-lows us to go beyond the borders of the moment and become part of that mo-ment in continuum, where the feelings and impressions we hold merge into the space itself. Kyoto is lucky to have many places where such experience is possible and we are appreciative of sponsors like Tokio Inkarami that make it possible for us to hold such events.
More infoDigitized Forest runs until Sep 02 at Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto, but teamLab’s Borderless exhibition can be enjoyed year round.
MORI BUILDING DIGITAL ART MUSEUM: EPSON TEAMLAB BORDERLESSAccess: Aomi Station, Odaiba, Tokyo • Open: Weekdays 10am–7pm; Sat, Sun & Hol 10am–9pm • Tickets: https://borderless.teamlab.art
MASANAO FUYUHIRO (L) AND TEAMLAB’S TOSHIYUKI INOKO (R)
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SHOPPING
MIKI HOUSE Wonderland
Make your way to the headquarters of Osaka’s international childrenswear brand
for a one-stop shopping extravaganza.
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One of the first things you notice when emerging from the Yaominami subway station is the large 7-Eleven across the
street. Glance a few buildings to your right, however, and taking center stage is the impressive home of Japanese chil-dren’s clothing brand MIKI HOUSE.
The striking concrete building was completed in 1991 to the exacting stand-ards of CEO and founder Koichi Kimura, whose passion and vision has allowed MIKI HOUSE to grow from strength to strength since its inception in 1971 (read our interview with Mr. Kimura in issue #220). One of his requests, much to the chagrin of his employees, was to use the basement space not as a car park, but as a luxury showroom.
Open five days a week from 11am–6pm, you enter down a set of red-carpeted stairs and find yourself at the center atrium of a semicircular layout of elegant department-store style bou-tiques, each dedicated to a different line of kids’ items from shoes, babywear, books and toys, and even formal wear. Each section is interconnected, creating an immersive MIKI HOUSE wonder-land experience.
The MIKI HOUSE line of cute yet high-quality children’s wear has been a stalwart of kids’ wardrobes for genera-tions. It retains a dedicated clientele eager to see their children and grand-children dressed in the same brand that they themselves once wore. Whilst they have introduced various sub-brands to cater for contemporary trends, such as the American-casual line Double.B and the playful Hot Biscuits range, the simple red and navy Essentials range
emblazoned with the white MIKI HOUSE logo remain the go-to items for nostal-gic shoppers.
The sheer range of items they produce is astonishing. There is everything from gorgeous baby shoes, luxury cashmere duffle coats, and babygrows to picture books, strollers, and even baby baths, covering sizes from newborn to nine years old. Everything is designed and produced to the highest quality and almost entirely in Japan. The attention to detail is apparent everywhere. Their babygrows are manufactured from the softest cotton sourced from the West Indies and close not with buttons or snaps, but with silk ribbons, allowing for easy adjustment. The logos on their classic tees are not printed but embroi-dered with extremely fine stitch. It is a hallmark of the MIKI HOUSE ethos that the clothes must not only look appeal-ing, but last.
Their line of summer yukata and jinbei (traditional summer clothing) feature Japanese motifs and patterns and prove extremely popular with international customers. Although they operate stores across Japan and in key locations over-seas, a major advantage of shopping at their Yao main store is that they can keep nearly all of their items on display year-round. Whilst browsing seasonal items for autumn and winter, you can also find off-season items for the follow-ing spring and summer.
There is free parking onsite, a nursing room, resting area, and multilingual staff on hand to assist international visitors. They even offer free one-on-one workshops for expectant mothers on how to dress and bathe a newborn.
Whether shopping for your own family, or for gifts for family and friends, MIKI HOUSE is your one-stop shop for the highest quality kidswear. KS
MIKI HOUSE Wonderland
MIKI HOUSE MAIN FLAGSHIP STORE1-76-2 Wakabayashi-cho, Yao City, OsakaOpen: 11am–6pmClosed: Wed & ThuTel: +81-72-920-2055Access: Tanimachi Subway line, Yaominami Stn, 1-min walk*When coming by car please use the MIKI HOUSE Main Office parking lot *All major credit cards, WeChat, and AliPay are accepted
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Nestled deep within mountain-ous Nagano Prefecture, four hours by car from Osaka or three hours from Tokyo,
is the small village of Oshika-mura, literally meaning “big deer village.” Located between the Ina Mountains and the Akaishi Mountains in the Southern Alps, this remote, picturesque village where the deer outnumber the people, was selected in 2005 by a Japanese NPO as one of “The Most Beautiful Villages in Japan.”
Entering the alpine village, there is no question as to why. It’s like stepping onto a film set of an old samurai movie. A picture of nostalgic rural charm, yet thankfully minus any sword-wielding bandits. It is not scenic beauty that has kept Oshika-mura on the radar, how-ever, but kabuki theater and salt.
The former has been passed down through generations for over 300 years
and has been designated by the national government as an Important Intangible Folk Culture of Japan. Free performanc-es are staged twice a year within the grounds of Taiseki Shrine.
The latter has been bubbling up through the mountains as saltwater hot springs for thousands of years. At an elevation of 750m above sea level, and so far from the ocean, it is an extremely rare natural phenomenon. To this day, there remains no definitive scientific explanation as to how it got there.
The village can be enjoyed year-round but is particularly beautiful in the au-tumn when the forest is alive with color and the weather a little cooler. If you time it right, you may even be able to enjoy the seasonal kabuki performance on Oct 19. Take a detour from the tourist trail and explore this unique destination away from it all.
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
NAGANO’S MYSTERIOUS SALTWATER SPRINGS
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Venture deep into the mountains of Nagano Prefecture and discover the salty secrets of Oshika-mura.
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ARTISAN SALT
Yamashio-Kan not only welcomes guests to its traditional inn but is also the sole producer of Oshika-mura’s rare “mountain salt.” Production is a labor-intensive task. The brine needs to be simmered from dusk to dawn to evaporate the moisture and extract the salt, with only a meager 30g of salt obtainable from each liter of water. With such a low return per volume and its unsuitability for mass production, it is a rare commodity, making it a great souvenir.
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Where to stayYAMASHIOKAN山塩館
One of only two hot-spring resorts in the village, this traditional family-run ryokan offers both comfortable, well-appointed Western- and Japanese-style rooms, complete with an evening meal, breakfast, and access to its hot-spring baths. Enjoy a soothing dip in either the cedarwood or stone bath, letting the salty water work its mineral magic on any weary muscles. Ambient lighting accentuates the relaxing mood, and large windows offer unrestricted views of the peaceful woodland surroundings beyond.
The hearty meals, prepared by the whole family, are crafted with loving care using local recipes passed down through generations. Dishes feature locally sourced deer and game and other seasonal local produce, such as wild moun-tain vegetables during the summer months. Vegetarians can be catered for with advance notice. yamashio.com
Noodle LunchSURUGI NOUEN FARMするぎ農園
Surugi Nouen Farm offers soba noodles made from home-grown buckwheat that are milled and prepared in-house for optimum texture and flavor. They are served with delicious side dishes including seasonal vegetable tempura, homemade tofu salad, and a special sweet-and-sour stew prepared with Oshika-mura soybeans. Each dish is made from locally sourced produce and accentu-ated with Oshikamura’s unique mountain salt. Their organic Guatemalan cold-drip coffee is brewed for two hours and provides a welcome post-lunch coffee fix. www.osk.janis.or.jp/~kindosan
Geological MuseumTHE OSHIKA MUSEUM OF JAPAN MEDIAN TECTONIC LINE大鹿村中央構造線博物館
Oshika-mura lies on the path of Japan’s largest continuous fault line—the Median Tectonic Line (MTL)—and is home to the only museum dedicated to this extraordinary geological feature in Japan. The MTL stretches from Kanto to Kyushu and was created about 100 million years ago, before the opening of the Sea of Japan, when the Japanese archipelago was still part of the Asian con-tinent. The museum contains several hundred pieces of rock specimens, along with exhibits of cross-sections of the fault and other diorama models. This is a fascinating opportunity to deepen your understanding of Japan’s tectonic geog-raphy and learn how the Japanese archipelago was formed. mtl-muse.com
Getting ThereRenting a car is the easiest way to get to Oshika-mura. During November, however, JR operates a special scenic line running from Toyohashi in Aichi (a stop on the Tokaido Shinkansen Kodama line) to Iida in Nagano, just 45 mins from Oshika-mura by car/taxi. See online for more details: https://japanrailandtravel.com/trains/jr-central/the-iida-line-unexplored-station-train
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Wh
at’s On
Gu
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Osaka
OSAKA
FUTON DAIKO – FESTIVAL OF FLOATING DRUMS 百舌鳥八幡宮秋祭り ふとん太鼓Sep 14–15 • Mozu Hachimangu Shrine, OsakaThe Futon Drum Festival is a popular autumn event held throughout Sakai City as well as other areas in Osaka and Hyogo. The festival floats are quite distinctive; there is a roof made from red futons forming an inverted pyramid, and a Japanese drum is placed underneath. Each float weighs about three tonnes and more than 50 men carry it in the processions. On both days, each participating neighborhood will take turns carrying the futon drum floats.TIME: 11am–10:30pm Sep 14; 9:30am–10pm Sep 15 • ADMISSION:
Free • ACCESS: JR Hanwa Line, Mozu Stn, 10-min walk • mozu8.com
OSAKA
YABUSAME SHINJI – HORSE STUNT CEREMONY流鏑馬神事Oct 25 • Osaka Temmangu Shrine, OsakaIn this exciting religious event continued since the 15th century, dressed horses and riders perform stunts in front of Osaka Temmangu Shrine. The rider, typically a priest of the shrine, shoots arrows in four different directions, then mounts the horse and attempts to hit three targets.TIME: 3pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Osakatemmangu Stn • tenjinsan.com/index.html
OSAKA
SHITENNOJI WASSO四天王寺ワッソNov 3 • Naniwa-no-miya ato Park, OsakaWasso is a spectacular carnival commemorating the cultural exchange between Japan and other Asian countries. One highlight is the grand parade of ancient Chinese, Korean, and Japanese courtiers, which is scheduled between
noon and 3pm. Thousands of costumed people will parade around the park while dancing to traditional music. Enjoy Korean and Japanese cuisine and don’t miss the chance to try on a traditional folk costume. A child-friendly area with Wasso-related activities will be available.TIME: 10:30am–5pm • ADMISSION:
Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Line, Tanimachi-4-Chome Stn, Exit 10, 5-min walk • wasso.net
Kyoto
KYOTO
SEIRYU-E – DRAGON PARADE青龍会Sep 14–15 • Kiyomizu Temple & Surroundings, KyotoAccording to one of the legends of Kiyomizu Temple, a blue dragon (Seiryu), an incarnation of Kannon, flies to drink from the waterfall every night. At this event, with an 18-meter-long figure of the blue dragon leading the way,
a variety of performers featuring elaborate costumes parade through the grounds and the surrounding temple town, praying for peace and expelling bad luck. TIME: 2pm–3:30pm • ADMISSION:
Free • ACCESS: Keihan Line, Gion-shijo Stn, bus to Kiyomizumichi • monzenkai.com/seiryue.html
KYOTO
HYAKKI YAGYO – NIGHT PARADE OF 100 DEMONS一条百鬼夜行Oct 19 • Taishogun Shopping StreetLegend has it that, once upon a time, 100 yokai (supernatural beings) paraded through the Taishogun shopping street. To commemorate the tale, crowds of enthusiasts flood the street in their elaborate yokai disguises to interact with their fellow supernaturals. For those longing for more ghosts and monsters, spooky trinkets are on sale at the flea market on adjacent streets.TIME: 6pm–7pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Keifuku Electric Railroad (Randen), Kitano-Hakubaicho Stn, 5-min walk • kyoto-taisyogun.com
OSAKA
KISHIWADA DANJIRI FESTIVAL岸和田だんじり祭りSep 14–15 • Kishiwada Stn & SurroundingsIntricately carved danjiri (floats) are pulled at high speeds by teams of men around the narrow streets of the town. The highlight of this race-like parade is the yarimawashi, when the danjiri makes a 90-degree turn at an intersection. These intersections are extremely popular viewing spots and crowds of visitors cheer when a seamless turn is completed. At dusk, the danjiri are illuminated with paper lanterns making for a calm, serene atmosphere, a real contrast to the high-energy action of the day. Those interested in discovering more about the festival can visit the Kishiwada Danjiri Kaikan Museum located near Kishiwada Castle.TIME: 6am–10pm Sep 14; 9am–10pm Sep 15 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Nankai line, Kishiwada Stn; Nankai line, Haruki Stn • city.kishiwada.osaka.jp/site/danjiri
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What’s On Cultural
KYOTO
KURAMA FIRE FESTIVAL鞍馬の火祭りOct 22 • Yuki ShrineIn this ancient ceremony, which first began as a ritual to greet the arrival of the deity of Yuki Shrine, families light bonfires and the flaming torches are carried in a procession. Kurama is located in the mountainous area of northern Kyoto City. At 6pm, large flaming torches are lit in front of neighborhood homes. As children parade with smaller torches, men carry the larger torches that weigh up to about 80 kilograms and require more than two people to carry. The ceremony officially ends the following day when the two portable shrines are returned to Yuki-jinja.TIME: 6pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS:
Eizan Densha line, Kurama Stn • yukijinjya.jp/himaturi.html
KYOTO
FESTIVAL OF THE AGES時代祭Oct 26 • Heian Shrine, KyotoThe colorful, costume-filled Jidai Matsuri is one of Kyoto’s three largest festivals. It celebrates the city’s long history and
fascinating traditional culture. The highlight of the day is the Jidai Gyoretsu (Historic Pageant) that follows a mikoshi (portable shrine) and an assembly of 2,000 costume-clad paraders wearing clothes representing various eras of Kyoto’s 1,200-year history. The parade starts at noon from Kyoto Gosho (Kyoto Imperial Palace) and proceeds for 4.6 kilometers along Oike Street and Sanjo Street, arriving finally at Heian Jingu at around 2:30pm. There are plenty of photo opportunities for spectators as the line of parading people stretches over such a long distance that it takes more than an hour for the entire procession to pass one spot. This festival is an excellent chance to get a close look at traditional costumes and accessories of the people of Kyoto throughout the ages.TIME: 12 Noon (Imperial Palace) (postponed in case of rain) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kyoto Subway Karasuma line, Marutamachi Stn (Imperial Palace); Kyoto Subway Tozai line, Higashiyama Stn, 15-min walk (Heian Shrine) • heianjingu.or.jp
KYOTO
TENGU GOBLIN FEST天狗の宴
Nov 10 • Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, KyotoEvery year when the fall leaves turn, the magical Japanese creature called the tengu comes down from Mt. Atago to Otagi Nenbutsuji, and a ritual to ward off evil spirits is performed. Shooting arrows in the air and loudly beating wooden clappers, five tengu—one blue-faced, one gold-faced, others multicolored—work vigorously to scare away the evil spirits. There will be a taiko drumming performance given by children before the ritual begins. There are also 1,200 Buddhist stone statues to see in this temple. TIME: 1pm–2:30pm • ADMISSION:
¥300 adults, concessions • ACCESS:
JR Saga Arashiyama Stn, bus to Otagidera-mae • otagiji.com
HYOGO
NISHINOMIYA FESTIVAL例祭 西宮まつりSep 21–23 • Nishinomiya Shrine & SurroundingsA three-day celebration with a variety of rituals, ceremonies, and live performances, this event started in 2000 to honor the restoration of the city after the Great Hanshin Earthquake. On the
OSAKA
SAKAI FESTIVAL堺まつりOct 19–20 • Sakai Stn & SurroundingsHeld annually since 1974, this festival has become one of the three biggest festivals of Sakai City. There is a pre-parade event on the 19th, and on the 20th, the 7000-strong Grand Parade transforms the streets into a colorful celebration with folk costumes from around the world, folk dances, bicycle and unicycle shows, matchlock gun salutes, and more. On both days, a large-scale tea ceremony takes place where visitors can casually experience the world of Japanese tea at an outdoor venue or in a tatami room. Local Sakai souvenirs will be on sale at the Nambanichi Market happening alongside the festival.TIME: 4:15pm–9pm Oct 19; 10am–5pm Oct 20 • ADMISSION:
Free • ACCESS: Nankai line, Sakai Stn; Nankai Koya line, Sakaihigashi Stn • sakai-tcb.or.jp/s-matsuri
KYOTO
SHINSENEN KYOGEN神泉苑狂言Nov 1–3 • Shinsenen Temple, KyotoIn this classic Japanese performance art, masked actors entertain the audience with their animated gestures. Wearing colorful costumes and accompanied by temple bells, flutes, and taiko drums, the actors perform at the historic Shinsenen temple. Kyogen, literally meaning “mad words,” is a traditional comedy that teaches Buddhist beliefs through comic stories. Unlike more widespread kyogen styles, all the actors wear masks and play without dialog in Shinsenen Kyogen. TIME: 6:30pm–9:30pm Nov 1; 1pm–5:30pm & 6:30pm–9:30pm Nov 2 & 3 • ADMISSION: Donations appreciated • ACCESS: Kyoto Subway Tozai line, Nijojo-mae Stn, 2-min walk • shinsenen.org
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What’s On CulturalSee Kansaifinder.com for more
21st, traditional dance performances and taiko drumming will take place. The following day, there will be a children’s procession at 3pm, and on the 23rd, a portable-shrine parade in the streets and a boat parade on the ocean will be held at Nishinomiya’s yacht harbor.TIME: 5pm Sep 21; 10am Sep 22 & 23 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Hanshin line, Nishinomiya Stn, South Exit, 7-min walk • nishinomiya-ebisu.com/index.html
KYOTO
CHINESE MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL第22回 中秋節Sep 13–16 • Kobe Nankin-machiChinatown Kobe comes to life for the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival, also known as the Mooncake Festival. Join the festivities held at Nankin-machi, celebrating a time when the moon is at its fullest and brightest. Enjoy the atmosphere among the red and gold lanterns, have your fill of authentic Chinese cuisine, and be entertained by the plethora of cultural performances. Special culinary dishes unique to this event are served on the
13th for bargain prices. On the 14th and 15th, traditional music, martial arts, a lion dance, and a dragon dance will be performed. Nankin-machi’s very own mooncakes will be available for purchase throughout the four-day event.TIME: 5pm–8pm Sep 13; From 11am Sep 14–16 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS:
JR / Hanshin line, Motomachi Stn, 5-min walk • nankinmachi.or.jp
Shiga
SHIGA
HACHIMANBORI LANTERN FESTIVAL八幡堀まつり~町並みと灯り~Oct 12 • Omi HachimanThe historic town of Hachimanbori is famous for its picturesque canals, which will be illuminated with thousands of lanterns during this festival. Approximately 3,500 lanterns that use a combination of candles and LED lights will light up the streets and create an ambient atmosphere. Traditional houses around the neighborhood will be converted to live music
venues, art galleries, markets, and cafes and will be open to the public free of charge.TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Omihachiman Stn, bus to Osugi-cho • omi8.com
SHIGA
OTSU FESTIVAL大津祭Oct 12–13 • Tenson Shrine & SurroundingsThirteen magnificent hikiyama floats host performances of karakuri ningyo—Japanese mechanical puppets. Often described as ‘moving museums,’ the richly decorated hikiyama, with their valuable fabric, golden carvings, and lacquerworks, are alone worth coming to see. On the 12th, the neighborhood is adorned with lanterns which are lit after dark. Locals gather to appreciate the floats as local groups play festival music. The next day, the parade starts from 9am in front of Tenson Shrine and tours the neighborhood over the course of the day.TIME: 6pm to 9pm Oct 12; 9am–5:30pm Oct 13 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Otsu Stn, 3-min walk • otsu-matsuri.jp/home
NARA
TAKATORI CASTLE SAMURAI FESTIVAL第31回たかとり城まつりNov 23 • Takatori Tosamachinami and Surroundings, NaraThis annual spectacle celebrates the history of the town and its castle. Today only the ruins of the fortress remain, but it was once reputed to be one of the three best mountain-top castles in Japan. The town will be covered in autumnal foliage, and a number of samurai-period attractions will be put on for visitors. There will be a matchlock gun demonstration, sword-drawing practice, and swordplay demonstrations. A samurai parade with armour-clad warriors and ladies in traditional costumes will move through the neighborhood. There will be traditional dance performances and a market.TIME: 10am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Tsubosakayama Stn, 10-min walk • sightseeing.takatori.info
HYOGO
HIMEJI CASTLE – NIGHT FANTASIES姫路城・ナイトファンタジア おとぎ幻影伝 Nov 9–30 • Himeji CastleEnjoy a fabulous display of traditional and modern artworks at Himeji Castle. In the evening, the castle grounds will be illuminated with beautiful lighting and guests can enjoy a projection-mapping performance that narrates the historical background of the castle. This year an arts collective that combines video, sound and light, and an artist group that creates works solely using disco mirror balls will participate in the production.TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 adults, concessions • ACCESS: JR Himeji Stn, 20-min walk • himejijo-otogigeneiden-2019.com
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What’s On Cultural
SHIGA
MAIBARA HIKIYAMA FESTIVAL米原曳山まつりOct 12–14 • Yutani Shrine, ShigaExquisitely decorated hikiyama floats built around the 18th century are paraded around the town with children performing kabuki plays on them. The floats move from Maibara station to Yutani Shrine on the 12th and the kabuki and kyogen performances take place on the 13th and 14th.TIME: 12:30pm–8:30pm Oct 12; 8:30am–8:30pm Oct 13; 12:30pm–7pm Oct 14 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Maibara Stn • biwa.ne.jp/~hozonkai/index.htm
SHIGA
KUSATSU ILLUMINATION STREET草津街あかり・華あかり・夢あかりNov 1–2 • JR Kusatsu Station & SurroundingsHandmade lights will shed a soft glow on the historic streets surrounding Kusatsu Station. At multiple locations, lights created by local school children and light installations designed by young artists will be on display. Local landmarks such as the Kusatsu Inn Headquarters and Jozenji Temple will also be lit up, and the shopping arcades will trade their regular electric lights to handmade lanterns.
TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS:
JR Kusatsu Stn, 5-min walk • kusatsu-machiakari.net
NARA
UNEME MATSURI – LADIES OF IMPERIAL COURT FESTIVAL采女祭りSep 13 • Sarusawa Pond, NaraA colorful water pageant takes place at the scenic Sarusawa Pond in Nara. This elegant boating parade featured participants dressed as ancient courtesans admiring the moon at its fullest and brightest. Legend has it that an uneme (a lady of the imperial court) threw herself into this pond in despair after falling out of favor with the Emperor. This event also takes place to comfort the spirit of the uneme. There will be an elaborate parade of people dressed in 8th-century attire from JR Nara Station through Sanjo-dori to the pond, followed by a religious ceremony and then the boating event.TIME: 5pm-8:30pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR / Kintetsu Line, Nara Stn • narashikanko.or.jp/event/unemematsuri
NARA
CORRIDOR OF LIGHT & RED SPIDER LILY FESTIVAL IN ASUKA飛鳥光の回廊・彼岸花祭Sep 21–22 • Asuka Village, NaraWith the striking red spider lilies in full bloom, now is the perfect time to visit Asuka Village during the annual Red Spider Lily Festival and Corridor of Light illumination event. The two events will be held on the same days this year, so come for the brilliant red of the exotic flowers during the day, and stay for the gentle illuminations that light up the historic town at night. Palace sites, tumuli burial mounds, and old temples scattered around the village will be illuminated with lights, candles, and lanterns after sundown.TIME: Red Spider Lily Festival 10am–4pm; Corridor of Light 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Kashiharajingu-mae Stn & Asuka Stn • asukamura.com
SHIGA
JAPANESE EQUESTRIAN馬上武芸奉納祭Nov 30 • Kamo ShrineBoth rider and horse colorfully dressed in kimonos perform a variety of martial arts in this religious event at Kamo Shrine, a sacred place for horses. In the performances, a bow and arrow, naginata (a pole-shaped weapon), and flags are used. After the show, spectators can enjoy the outdoor market and a spoken-word performance on the shrine grounds.TIME: 10:30am • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Omihachiman Stn, bus to Kamohigashi • kamo-jinjya.or.jp
Looking for more Events?
See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com
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What’s On CulturalSee Kansaifinder.com for more
Osaka
Museums
THE MUSEUM OF ORIENTAL CERAMICS, OSAKARegarded as one of the best collections of ceramics in the world with over 7,000 items, this is a must-see museum for ceramic enthusiasts. It is located in leafy Nakanoshima next to the iconic Central Public Hall.///dealings.lifelong.mimics • 1-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6223-0055 • moco.or.jp
CUPNOODLES MUSEUMThis offbeat museum in Ikeda pays tribute to Momofuku Ando, the inventor of the instant noodle. Great for kids, there are fun, hands-on activities and, for only ¥300, you can design your own bespoke cup noodles (takes about 45 mins).///candles.shell.magic • 8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda • TEL: 072-752-3484 • cupnoodles-museum.jp
OSAKA SCIENCE MUSEUMThis educational museum on Nakanoshima Island boasts four floors of more than 200 interactive exhibits and displays designed to help children learn about chemistry, electricity, energy, and the universe. The planetarium’s main dome has a radius of almost 27 meters, making it the largest in Japan and the seventh-largest in the world.///owns.trusts.hostels • 4-2-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6444-5656 • sci-museum.jp
MUSEUM OF HOUSING AND LIVINGThis museum depicts everyday Osaka life as it was in the past, complete with a life-sized interactive recreation of an Edo-era neighborhood.///wipe.natural.spray • 6-4-20 Tenjinbashi, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6242-1170 • konjyakukan.com
Monuments and Landmarks
SUMIYOSHI SHRINEOsaka’s Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan. Founded in the 3rd century before Buddhism came to the country, it has a distinctive architectural style called Sumiyoshi-zukuri that is free of influence from mainland Asia.
///author.condiment.nozzle • 2-9-89 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi Ward • TEL: 06-6672-0753 • sumiyoshitaisha.net
OSAKA CASTLEIf it’s your first time to Osaka then you are duty-bound to visit this 400-year-old castle in the beautiful grounds of the expansive Osaka Castle Park. The small museum inside offers a thorough insight into its history.///surround.librarian.shins • 1-1 Osakajo, Chuo Ward • TEL: 06-6941-3044 • osakacastle.net
UMEDA SKY BUILDINGOne of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, the Floating Garden Observatory connecting its two towers offers 360-degree panoramic views.///fields.pining.rocked • 1-1-88 Oyodonaka, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6440-3900 • skybldg.co.jp
ABENO HARUKASJapan’s tallest skyscraper at 300m in height is home to an observatory, an art museum, and a hotel as well as a slew of restaurants and hundreds of shops.///handwriting.lobby.chefs • 1-1-43 Abenosuji, Abeno Ward • TEL: 06-6624-1111 • abenoharukas-300.jp
TSUTENKAKU TOWERTsutenkaku is one of Osaka’s most iconic landmarks presiding over the Shinsekai area near Tennoji. There are observation decks on the 4th and 5th floors, although at just 103m high, it is dwarfed by the nearby Abeno Harukas.///ants.seasons.these • 1-18-6 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward • TEL: 06-6641-9555 • tsutenkaku.co.jp
Attractions
OSAKA AQUARIUM KAIYUKANOne of the largest public aquariums in the world, visitors head to the eighth floor to start the tour and gradually spiral downward floor by floor around the central tank, which houses a whale shark. There are around 15 other tanks, each representing a specific region of the Pacific Rim.///deserved.gamer.shark • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 06-6576-5501 • kaiyukan.com
LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER OSAKA
A great place for the kids to let off steam and explore the excellent LEGO activities, small rides and 4D cinema that form this indoor LEGO playground. Save money on the entry fee with the Osaka Amazing Pass, which gets you into several of the city’s attractions, including Legoland, over a one- or two-day period.///paths.teachers.themes • 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato Ward • TEL: 0800-100-5346 • legolanddiscoverycenter.jp
UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPANGiant movie-themed amusement park with thrills and spills for all ages featuring characters from the Universal stable, including Harry Potter, Spiderman, and the Minions.///talents.humans.oils • 2-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana Ward • TEL: 0570-200-606 • usj.co.jp
SPA WORLDA giant hot-spring theme park with a huge choice of fanciful baths and spas in which to soak, as well as a large fun pool on its upper floors. Open 24 hrs.///sugars.stews.napped • 3-4-24 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward • TEL: 06-6631-0001 • spaworld.co.jp
SILVER BALL PLANETJapan’s mecca for pinball machines housing over 100 machines dating from the 1970s to the present day.///friends.teachers.tragedy • Big Step 3F, 1-6-14 Nishi-shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6258-5000 • silverballplanet.jp
KANSAI CYCLE SPORTS CENTERA bicycle-themed amusement park located in the hills south
MIE
IGA-RYU NINJA MUSEUMThe Iga region of Mie Prefecture is well-known for its ninja history and Iga’s ninja museum is the place to go for a comprehensive ninja experience. There’s a ninja residence, two exhibition halls, and a stage where ninja shows are performed. The ninja residence looks ordinary from the outside, but inside there are revolving walls, trap doors, and hidden compartments. Visitors are given a guided tour around the house with explanations about the various contraptions and also about the ninja way of life. There are ninja tools, costumes, and weapons on display in the exhibition halls, and you can experience the art of shuriken throwing in the museum yard.///common.deadline.hangs • 117 Uenomarunouchi, Iga • TEL: 0595-23-0311 • iganinja.jp
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Need extra help getting around? The What3words app identifies 3m x 3m squares across the planet with a unique three-word address. This navigation system is particularly useful in Japan where signs are hard to read (if you don’t speak Japanese) and sometimes your map app will take you to the vicinity of a shop, cafe, restaurant, temple, etc., but you don’t know exactly where the entrance is. The three words for a site are presented using three slashes: ///
To use: download the What3words app and enter the three words written down for a site (after this symbol: ///) into the app and the location will appear on your device. The system even works offline.
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com36
Sights & Attractions
OSAKA
EXPO CITYLocated in Suita in the north of Osaka, Expo City is a multi-venue complex home to a state-of-the-art aquarium and animal sanctuary called Nifrel where you can see crocodiles, tigers, monkeys, and penguins as well as sea creatures like tropical fish. The Lalaport shopping center has entertainment, food, and shopping options galore, including the 109 Cinema, a hi-tech Imax theater where you can have 3D or even 4D immersive movie experiences involving smoke, water, and other realistic special effects. The nearby Redhorse Osaka Wheel soars 120 meters above Expo City, making it the tallest Ferris wheel in the country. Just a stone’s throw away, the renowned Bampaku Koen, also known as Expo ’70 Commemorative Park, is an expansive green area covering 60 hectares and is home to the very quirky-looking Tower of the Sun.///scores.played.pausing • 2-1 Senribanpakukoen, Suita • TEL: 06-6170-5590 • expocity-mf.com
of Osaka. With pedal-powered roller coasters, a cycle luge, swings, and a host of crazy bikes to try out, this is a fun day out for the whole family.///dislodge.blusher.officers • 1304 Amanocho, Kawachinagano • TEL: 0721-54-3101 • kcsc.or.jp
Kyoto
Museums
NIJO CASTLEThe UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nijo Castle encompasses several gardens and the beautifully preserved Ninomaru Palace whose lavishly decorated rooms feature ornate woodwork and stunning wall paintings.///party.lorry.withdraw • 541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL: 075-841-0096 • city.kyoto.jp
KYOTO RAILWAY MUSEUMThis 30,000-square-meter space features 53 engines ranging from the Japan’s oldest steam locomotive to more recent
shinkansen models. Kids will go crazy for the train simulators and interactive dioramas.///selects.costumes.moral • Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward • TEL: 0570-080-462 • kyotorailwaymuseum.jp
KYOTO MUSEUM OF MODERN ARTThe gallery houses a superb collection of both Japanese and Western modern art with some excellent temporary exhibitions and can be found across the road from the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art.///privately.shears.hotels • 26-1 Okazaki Enshojicho, Sakyo Ward • TEL: 075-761-4111 • momak.go.jp
KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUMThis is one of Japan’s oldest museums housing a permanent collection of Japanese artefacts, treasures, and artworks.///someone.piston.dots • 527 Chayacho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: 075-525-2473 • kyohaku.go.jp
KYOTO INTERNATIONAL MANGA MUSEUM
This massive collection of contemporary and historical manga, comics, and graphic novels housed in a former primary school is a huge hit with manga and comic buffs the world over.///dearest.tractor.between • 452 Kinbukicho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL: 075-254-7414 • kyotomm.jp
Attractions
GEARA long-running non-verbal theater show that continues to delight all ages. It mixes mime, dancing, magic, juggling, and contemporary special effects.///awake.smaller.handwriting • 1928 Blg. 3F, 56 Benkeiishi-cho, Nakagyo Ward • TEL:
075-254-6520 • gear.ac
TOEI KYOTO STUDIO PARKThere’s lots of fun to be had at this old Edo-themed movie park with a brilliant ninja show, staged samurai fights, and the chance to dress up as you wander the faux Edo-era streets.///seasons.zealous.maternal • 10 Uzumasa Higashihachioka-cho, Ukyo Ward • TEL:
075-864-7716 • toei-eigamura.com
KYOTO AQUARIUMA modern aquarium in Umekoji Park with aquatic creatures presented across 12 different themed areas. Great for a rainy-day activity or for families with young children.///soldiers.grants.alright • 35-1 Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward • TEL: 075-354-3130 • kyoto-aquarium.com
Nara
Museums
NARA NATIONAL MUSEUMExpanding over four buildings with wheelchair access, this museum holds treasures from the Nara period (710 to 784 AD) plus Buddhist and decorative art from around Japan with explanations in English.///officers.sweetly.actor • 50 Noborioji-cho, Nara City • TEL: 050-5542-8600 • narahaku.go.jp/english/index_e.html
NARA PREFECTURAL MUSEUM OF ARTNara’s main art museum has an extensive collection of Japanese art with a focus on the Edo and Meiji eras. Exhibitions rotate every two to three months and
explanations of most pieces are in English. There is a good museum shop and regular free workshops and activities for families. Free for seniors and for foreigners with ID.///export.hairpin.pound • 10-6 Noboriojicho, Nara City • TEL: 0742-23-3968 • pref.nara.jp/11842.htm
Monuments and Landmarks
NARA PARKA huge ancient park and the focal point for any visit to Nara. Droves of wild deer will follow you around as you explore the park’s stunning temples, gardens, and museums, hoping you may feed them special deer crackers.///rinses.safest.select • TEL: 0742-22-0375 • nara-park.com
TODAI-JIThis temple with its 15m-high Buddha is the most prestigious of Nara’s seven great temples and draws a steady stream of visitors.///lighten.cult.self • 406-1 Zoshicho, Nara • 0742-22-5511 • todaiji.or.jp
KASUGA SHRINEAn ancient Shinto shrine famous for its stunning vermillion-colored columns, it is approached along an atmospheric forest path lined with hundreds of stone lanterns.///announce.mascots.prove • 160 Kasuganocho, Nara • TEL: 0742-22-7788 • kasugataisha.or.jp
Hyogo
Museums
KOBE FASHION MUSEUMSituated on Rokko Island, this is Japan’s first museum dedicated to the world of fashion. It houses a large public library on its 3rd floor.///beeline.betrayal.marked • 2-9-1 Koyochonaka, Higashinada Ward • TEL:
078-858-0050 • fashionmuseum.or.jp
KOBE ANPANMAN CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & MALLGreat for young kids, this is a fun museum and play area in Kobe’s Harborland district, dedicated to the surreal world of popular Japanese children’s character Anpanman.///develops.mixer.credited • 1-6-2 Higashikawasaki-cho, Chuo Ward • TEL:
078-341-8855 • kobe-anpanman.jp
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Sights & AttractionsSee Kansaifinder.com for more
OSAKA
FLOWER GARDEN OF ART NOUVEAU: MUCHA AND LALIQUESakai Alphonse Mucha Museum • Until Oct 14In celebration of the artist who inspired the Sakai museum’s name, this exhibition commemorates the 80th anniversary of the death of Alphonse Mucha (1860–1939), one of the most influential figures of the Art Nouveau movement that captivated France—and the world—in the late 19th century. The Czech painter rose to fame by creating stylized theatrical posters for French actress Sarah Bernhardt while living in Paris. The exhibition features approximately 130 artworks focusing on Mucha’s designs featuring flowers and plants. Also included are pieces of jewelry and glass art by Mucha’s contemporary, René Lalique (1860–1945). This special exhibition is jointly held by the Sakai Alphonse Mucha Museum and the Lalique Museum Hakone.OPEN: 9:30am–5:15pm (last admission 4:30pm) • ADMISSION: • ACCESS: 3-min walk from JR Sakaishi Station • TEL: 072-222-5533 • mucha.sakai-bunshin.com
KYOTO
DRESS CODE: ARE YOU PLAYING FASHION?MoMAK • Until Oct 14Focusing on why we wear the clothes we do, “Are You Playing Fashion?” presents our daily fashion choices as a game of dress-up. By probing into what influences the clothes that cover our bodies and fill our closets, this exhibition reveals how fashion is based on one’s locale, beliefs, and circumstances. Examples of contemporary fashion, clothing depicted in film and manga, and items from high-end brands are showcased alongside one another in a manner both playful and thought-provoking. Actual clothing items, as well as photographs depicting looks from recent decades, are on display. From labels like Chanel and Comme des Garçons to artists like Ishiuchi Miyako and Hans Eijkelboom, there is something for everyone at this flashy and tongue-in-cheek exposition.9:30am–5pm, Fri & Sat until 9pm (admission until 30 mins before closing); closed Mondays (except Sep 16 & 23 and Oct 14; closed following Tue instead) • ADMISSION:
¥1,300 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Higashiyama Station • TEL:
075-761-4111 • kci.or.jp/special/exhibitions2019/en
KYOTO
THE THIRTY-SIX IMMORTAL POETS: ELEGANT ARTS OF THE CLASSICAL JAPANESE COURTKyoto National Museum • Oct 11 to Nov 23One hundred years ago, in the year 1919, news went viral concerning a set of precious 13th-century handscrolls known as Thirty-Six Immortal Poets, Satake Version. A group of wealthy connoisseurs had acquired the painted scrolls, once owned by the prominent Satake family, and were considered one of the nation’s most valuable artistic treasures. The connoisseurs intended to split up the collection and horde it amongst themselves. To possess one of these priceless fragments came to be regarded as a status symbol, yet their whereabouts often remained unknown even to experts. Today, these paintings have been reunited in their most comprehensive and public form in a century for all to enjoy.OPEN: 9:30am–6pm, Fri & Sat until 8pm (admission until 30 mins before closing); closed Mondays (except Oct 14 & Nov 4; closed following Tue instead) • ADMISSION: ¥1,600 • ACCESS:
7-min walk from Shichijo Station • TEL: 075-525-2473 • kyohaku.go.jp/eng/special
WAKAYAMA
MAEKAWA SENPANThe Museum of Modern Art, Wakayama • Sep 9 to Oct 1In commemoration of the 130th birthday of print artist and cartoonist Maekawa Sempan (1889–1960), MOMAW will display illustrations by the beloved Kyoto-born artist. Originally named Ishida Shigezaburo, Sempan studied Western art at Kansai Bijutsuin before moving to Tokyo to become a journalist and cartoonist for the Yomiuri Shimbun. He rose to fame for his creation of a character known as “Hasty Bear” as well as for his skill as a print artist. Known for his rustic style and the ability to convey the warmth of his subjects, Sempan traveled the country sketching the people and places he came across. About 70 of his works as well as related materials will be showcased at this exhibition. OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (admission until 30 minutes before closing); closed Mondays (except Sep 16 & 23 and Oct 14; closed the following Tue instead) • ADMISSION: ¥340 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from JR Wakayama Station • TEL:
073-436-8690 • momaw.jp/exhibit/after/post-162.php
KYOTO
THE ROOTS OF SHOJO MANGA? EARLY 20TH CENTURY PARISIAN ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINESKyoto International Manga Museum • Until Nov (TBD)Curated by Aramata Hiroshi, the executive director of the museum, the purpose of this mini-exhibition is to “trace the forgotten ancestors of manga” to uncover its contemporary roots. “The Roots of Shojo Manga?” is the fifth installment of this eye-opening investigative series. Featuring illustrated Parisian magazines dating to the early 20th century from Aramata’s own collection, visitors can glimpse how these periodicals influenced the romantic shojo manga (comics for young girls) of Japan’s Taisho period (1912–1926) and beyond. Drawings based on the fashionably beguiling women of turn-of-the-century Paris are showcased, including illustrations by Gerda Wegener, on whose life the recent film The Danish Girl was based.OPEN: 10am–6pm (admission until 5:30pm); CLOSED: Every Wed & Sep 10th • ADMISSION: ¥800 • ACCESS: 2-min walk from Karasuma Oike Station • TEL: 075-254-7414 • kyotomm.jp/en/event/exh_early20thcenturyparisianmagazines/
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What’s On Art & Exhibitions
OSAKA
THE DORAEMON EXHIBITION OSAKA 2019Osaka Cultural Center • Until Sep 23Children and anime fans alike will delight in this explosion of psychedelic color and childhood nostalgia. This exhibition goes beyond the beloved anime character, however — the 2019 Doraemon Exhibition is a celebration of contemporary Japanese art. A selection of 28 artists representing Japan comes together to showcase genre-defying works capturing the whimsical spirit of the 1970s-era animated character. Doraemon is the star of a fantastical manga and TV series of the same name and a Japanese cultural icon. All the artists featured in this exhibition grew up influenced by the loveable time-traveling robo cat, as is evident in their playful but thought-provoking pieces ranging from photography to installation.OPEN: 10am–5pm (last admission 4:30pm) every day • ADMISSION:
¥1,500 • ACCESS: 7-min walk from Osakako Station (next to aquarium) • TEL: 06-6586-3911 • thedoraemon tentokyo2017.jp/osaka.html
KYOTO
LEGENDARY KYOTO PAINTING FROM MARUYAMA OKYO TO THE MODERN ERAMOMAK • Nov 01 to Dec 14Maruyama Okyo is a renowned artist whose work characterized 18th-century Kyoto. Known for pioneering a realistic ink painting technique based on scenes from daily life, this new genre became known as the Maruyama school. A contemporary named Goshun founded the Shijo school, a style that fused Maruyama’s realism and the stylized strokes of painter-poet Yosa Buson. Together, Maruyama and Goshun created the Maruyama-Shijo school which focused on both authenticity and spirituality. Chronicling artistic techniques from Maruyama and Goshun’s time to the modern era, Legendary Kyoto Painting seeks to provide insight into various aspects of Kyoto art..OPEN: Regular hours: 9:30am–5pm *Fri and Sat 9:30am–8pm (Admission until 30 mins before closing) • CLOSED: Mondays except Nov 4th (closed Tue Nov 5th instead) • ADMISSION: ¥500 • ACCESS: 10-min walk from Higashiyama Station • TEL: 075-761-4111 • https://okyokindai2019.exhibit.jp/
OSAKA
VIENNA ON THE PATH TO MODERNISM: THE 150TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE ESTABLISHMENT OF DIPLOMATIC RELATIONS BETWEEN JAPAN AND AUSTRIAThe National Museum of Art, Osaka • Until Dec 7Vienna on the Path to Modernism focuses on the Austrian city’s fin-de-siècle (“turn of the century”) art scene. The years surrounding 1900 were a time of significant change for the European city—tradition converged with innovation, making the period rife with both anxiety and creativity. Tracing Viennese art through the Enlightenment, Biedermeier, Ringstrasse, and fin-de-siècle periods (circa 1780–1920), works from artists like Rudolf von Alt to Gustav Klimt are included. The artworks span generations and genres, but all reveal how the region changed at the turn of the last century. This exhibition coincides with the 150th anniversary of the date Japan and Austria established diplomatic relations and features approximately 300 items from Vienna’s Wien Museum.OPEN: 10am–5pm; Fri & Sat until 9pm (in Sep) and until 8pm Oct to Dec (admission until 30 mins before closing); closed Mondays (except Sept 16 & 23, Oct 14 and Nov 4; closed following Tue instead) • ADMISSION: ¥1,600 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Watanabebashi Station • TEL:
06-6447-4680 • nmao.go.jp/en/exhibition/2019/klimt_en.html
OSAKA
MARY AINSWORTH UKIYO-E COLLECTIONOsaka City Museum of Fine Arts • Until Sep 29Witness a world-class collection of ukiyo-e art prints at the Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts. Returning to Japan for the first time in over 100 years, the collection—which belongs to the Allen Memorial Art Museum in Oberlin, Ohio in the U.S.—features illustrated works of natural and everyday scenes delicately drawn and pristinely preserved. Born in 1867, Mary Ainsworth was one of the earliest American collectors of ukiyo-e art and one of the only women. Her pioneering efforts yielded a collection of more than 1,500 precious prints. Approximately 200 of these will be on display, including works by famed ukiyo-e masters Katsushika Hokusai (known for The Great Wave) and Utagawa Hiroshige.OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4:30pm) • ADMISSION: ¥1,400 • ACCESS: 5-min walk from Tennoji Station • TEL: 06-6771-4874 • osaka-art-museum.jp/sp_evt/mary-ainsworth
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グスタフ・クリムト 《パラス・アテナ》 1898年 油彩/カンヴァス 75 x 75 cm ウィーン・ミュージアム蔵 ©Wien Museum / Foto Peter Kainz
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 39
What’s On Art & ExhibitionsSee Kansaifinder.com for more
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What’s On Live Music
Rock & Pop
HOLY GRAILSep 6US metal band formed 2008Metal • Hokage,Osaka• 7pm • TBA • Tel: 06-6211-2855
KODA KUMISep 9–10 & Sep 12–14Japanese pop vocalistPop • Orix Theater, Osaka • 7pm • TBA • Tel: 06-6341-3525
MISAKO UNOSep 16Japanese pop vocalistPop • Grand Cube, Osaka • 6pm • ¥7,800 • Tel: 0570-200-888
FEEDERSep 17UK rock band featuring Grant Nicholas and Taka HiroseRock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7:30pm • ¥7,000 • Tel: 06-6535-5569
MISIASep 18Japanese pop, R&B and soul vocalistPop • Zepp, Osaka • 7pm • ¥8,640 • Tel: 0570-200-888
LITTLE GLEE MONSTERSep 18Japanese pop vocalist
Pop • Osaka Festival Hall, Osaka • 6:30pm • ¥7,506 • Tel: 0570-200-888
THE ROYAL CONCEPTSep 19Swedish rock band formed 2010Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥6,500 • Tel: 06-6311-8111
KILL LINCOLNSep 20American ska-punk bandSka Punk • Bronze, Osaka • TBA • TBA • 06-6282-7129
ALDIOUSSep 21Japanese melodic metalMetal • Muse, Kyoto • 6pm • ¥4,500 / ¥5,000 • 075-223-0389
KAMIJOSep 21–22Japanese visual-kei rock bandRock • Muse, Osaka • 21st - 6pm / 22nd - 4pm • TBA • 06-6245-5389
SUPERFLYSep 28–29Japanese pop vocalistPop • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • 28th - 4:30pm / 29th - 3:30pm • ¥7,700 / ¥8,800 • 0570-200-888
BACKYARD BABIESSep 30Swedish heavy-rock band formed 1989
Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥8,000 • 06-6311-8111
VELVET CRUSHOct 1American power-pop trioPop-rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,800 / ¥8,300 • 06-6311-8111
ONE OK ROCKOct 1–2Four-piece band from Tokyo formed 2005Pop rock • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,500 • 06-6341-3525
CARNATIONOct 5Belgian death metal bandMetal • Namba Bears, Osaka • 7:30pm • TBA • 06-6649-5564
HOT CHIPOct 9British electro-pop bandElectro Pop • Big Cat, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,000 • 06-6535-5569
BACKSTREET BOYSOct 16American pop vocal groupPop • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • 7pm • ¥9,500 / ¥18,000 • 0570-200-888
KENNY ‘BABYFACE’ EDMUNDSOct 16–18US singer, musician and producer
OSAKA
FEEDERSep 17You could be forgiven for thinking that Feeder’s start in the music industry is the stuff of dreams: Band sends a demo tape to a record label in 1994, label likes it, attends a live concert and quickly signs the group for a record deal. But as we know, there’s no such thing as overnight success. The band’s roots were established in 1987 when frontman guitarist Grant Nicholas met drummer Jon Lee and formed a group named Temper Temper, which would become Raindancer, Real, and then finally Feeder after recruiting bassist Taka Hirose. Tragically, drummer Jon Lee took his own life in 2002, but after some time, the band continued with
Skunk Anansie drummer Michael Richardson. Jump to the present, now with Karl Brazil on drums, and this year Feeder released their tenth studio album, Tallulah. UK newspaper The Guardian described the album as “a tour of noughties guitar music that time, or at least the zeitgeist, forgot...Nicholas and Hirose play to their strengths: unabashedly unfashionable guitar anthems with melodic middle-of-the-road flourishes.” Feeder has built an almost cult-like following in Japan so get your tickets early for this gig!Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7:30pm • ¥7,000 • TEL: 06-6535-5569
OSAKA
HOT CHIPOct 9Hot Chip is an English synth-pop band formed in London in 2000. The group consists of multi-instrumentalists Alexis Taylor, Joe Goddard, Al Doyle, Owen Clarke, and Felix Martin. Primarily producing music in the synth-pop and alternative dance genres while drawing influences from house and disco, the band initially began as a simple hobby recording project between school friends Taylor and Goddard. Their debut studio album through Moshi Moshi Records (named after the Japanese word for “hello” when answering the telephone) was 2004’s Coming On Strong, which received mixed reviews. This year, Hot Chip released a seventh studio album A Bath Full of Ecstasy. Songwriters Goddard and Taylor began writing the album in 2017 while contributing to songs for Katy Perry. One song Into Me You See went onto Perry’s album Witness, while two others—Spell and Echo—were re-worked for A Bath Full of Ecstasy.Electro-pop • Big Cat, Osaka • 7pm • ¥7,000 • TEL: 06-6535-5569
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 41
What’s On Live MusicSee Kansaifinder.com for more
R&B • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥17,000 / ¥18,000 • 06-6342-7722
QUEENESSOct 26Japanese Queen tribute bandRock • Live Spot Rag, Kyoto • 7:30pm • ¥3,440 / ¥4,300 • 075-241-2022
SYRUP16GOct 25–26Japanese rock band from Tokyo formed 2008Rock • Big Cat, Osaka • 25th-7:30pm / 26th - 5:30pm • ¥4,800 • 0570-200-888
FIFTH DIMENSIONOct 28Australian punk-rock trioRock • Hokage, Osaka • TBA • TBA • 06-6211-2855
DRAGON ASHOct 29
Japanese rock-rap bandRock • Chicken George, Kobe • 7pm • ¥6,000 • 078-332-0146
THE MUGGLESEvery Fri & SatMellow ballads, classic rock, and rock n roll from Osaka-based jamming bandGroup Sounds • Woodstock Cafe, Ashiya • 7pm • Free (¥2,000 for 2 drinks+snack) • 079-734-1044
Jazz & World
JOSHUA BREAKSTONE TRIOSep 6US jazz guitaristJazz • Bonds Rosary, Kyoto • 7:30pm • ¥2,900 • 075-285-2859
THE MANHATTAN TRANSFER
Sep 17–18US jazz vocal group formed 1969Jazz • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥10,800 / ¥11,800 • 06-6342-7722
MARSHALL MCDONALDSep 20Jazz-funk saxophonistJazz • Bonds Rosary, Kyoto • 7:30pm • ¥3,000 • 075-285-2859
MEGUREESep 26Japanese accordian duoJazz Pops • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 7:30pm / 9pm • ¥3,500 / ¥4,000 • 06-6342-5821
BRIAN JACKSONSep 28The music of Gill Scott Heron & Brian JacksonJazz • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 4:30pm/7:30pm • ¥8,800 / ¥9,800 • 06-6342-7722
AYAKO ISHIKAWAOct 1Japanese classic and contemporary violinistClassic • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥5,500 / ¥6,500 • 06-6342-7722
GAIA CUATROOct 2Japanese-Argentinian jazz four-pieceJazz • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 7pm/9pm • ¥4,000 / ¥6,000 • 06-6342-5821
KURT ROSENWINKELOct 16–17Jazz guitarist with CAIPI ft. Pedro MartinsJazz • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:15pm • ¥8,000 / ¥8,500 • 06-6342-5821
OSAKA
THE ROYAL CONCEPTSep 19The Royal Concept came together in 2012 in Stockholm, Sweden. They released their debut album Goldrushed in 2013, followed by the 2015 Smile before disbanding. Coming back together in 2018 to work on new music, they had intended this year’s album The Man Without Qualities to be their last. But after switching labels, they got a second wind and decided to continue by booking live dates in Europe and Asia. Online music review magazine Dancing About Architecture described the new album as
“more mature than the band’s previous releases, with a little bit of carryover but with more climaxes and emotion as well as showing more of a psychadelic side of their sound.” As well as their albums, The Royal Concept has also enjoyed success with their music being used in a number of computer games and television shows.Rock • Club Quattro, Osaka • 7pm • ¥6,500 • TEL: 06-6311-8111
OSAKA
KURT ROSENWINKELOct 16 & 17American jazz musician and Berklee College of Music student Kurt Rosenwinkel signed to Verve in 1995 after winning the Composer’s Award from the National Endowment for the Arts. He released his solo album East Coast Love Affair the following year. Citing influences including John Coltrane, Pat Metheny, Allan Holdsworth, Tal Farlow, George Van Eps, Bill Frisell, John Scofield, and Alex Lifeson (RUSH), Rosenwinkel brings his CAIPI project (the title of his 2017 album) to Japan along with Brazilian guitar prodigy (Montreux Guitar Competition winner 2015) Pedro Martins. Martins is a multi-instrumentalist, singer and composer who has left his very own mark on Rosenwinkel’s Caipi project, live as well as in the studio, and has also recorded his own work on the well-received album VOX. A gig for music lovers in general, this is a golden opportunity to see two of the top guitarists in the genre.Jazz • Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • 6:30pm/9:15pm • ¥8,000 / ¥8,500 • TEL: 06-6342-5821
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com42
What’s On Clubs & Nightlife
Sep
NARA
Sep 7 & 8
ADVENTURE LANDBon Disco 2019 (Techno/House/Breaks)ACTS: Cesare, Boiler, Naluu, Takahiro Oishi, Robert, Hanai, Dasakura + more • OPEN: 7th 12pm; 8th 3pm • ADMISSION:
¥3,500/1D • ACCESS: Nosegawa mura, 2 hours from Osaka By Car • TEL: 072-986-7777 • adventureland.jp
OSAKA
Sep 7
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEEn:Core (Hip Hop/OpenFormat)DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
KYOTO
Sep 7
OCTAVEParallel World presents Creative Psyenergy (Psychedelic Trance)DJS: Akinao & Yoshito, Gacky, Junny, T.k.o + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,600/1D • ACCESS:
Keihan Sanjo Stn • TEL: 06-6214-1223 • octavekyoto.space
OSAKA
Sep 7
SOUTH SWELL CAFECity Boy Lounge feat. Chaos in the CBD (House)DJS: Chaos in the Cbd, CityBoy Lounge Residents DJs • OPEN:
7pm–11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000 • ACCESS: Awaza Subway Stn • TEL:
06-6535-8852 • FACEBOOK: South Swell Cafe
KYOTO
Sep 7
WEST HARLEMSyn-c: The Last Dance (House/Techno)DJS: Torei, Toshiki, Sota, Ryo + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
¥2,000/1D (Under 23 Year Old:¥1,000/1D) • ACCESS: Hankyu Kawaramachi Stn, Keihan shijo Stn • TEL: 050-1016-0099 • FACEBOOK: westharlem
OSAKA
Sep 8
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEWay Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS:
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:
06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
KYOTO
Sep 8
METROLow Power (Techno/Electronic)ACTS: Ken’ichi Itoi, Ichion, Ceeestee + more • OPEN:
5pm–10:30pm • ADMISSION:
¥2,500/1D • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
OSAKA
Sep 13
CIRCUSMonza (Techno)DJS: Aoki Takamasa, Kohei + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
KYOTO
Sep 13
DNA PARADISEAquialia (Deep House)DJS: Mitsuki, Urame, Werikyo, Koz + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
¥1,000 • ACCESS: Keihan Sanjo Stn • TEL: 06-6214-1223 • dnaparadise.space
OSAKA
Sep 13
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGELoyal (Open Format)DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women
& FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS:
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:
06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
KYOTO
Sep 13
METRODo it Jazz! x Dego (Jazz/Crossover/House)ACTS: Dego, Masaki Tamura, Yukari Bb, Sota, Kazuhiro Inoue + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV:
¥2,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
OSAKA
Sep 14
CIRCUSHidden Spheres Japan Tour Osaka (House)DJS: Hidden Spheres, Mightwhales, Akemi HIno + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION:
¥2,500 (ADV:¥2,000) • ACCESS:
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:
06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
OSAKA
Sep 14
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEEn:Core (Hip Hop/OpenFormat)DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
OSAKA
Sep 15
CIRCUSSee You At (House)DJS: Luigi Madonna, Yashima, Nao Nomura, Seiiichi Takamatsu + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION:
¥2,500 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
OSAKA
Sep 15
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEWay Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS:
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:
06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
KYOTO
Sep 15
METROBarrio Lindo Japan Tour 2019 supported by Kiki Kaikai (Tribal/Techno/House)ACTS: Barrio Lindo, Mamezuka, Chari, Tamai-I + more • OPEN:
11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV:
¥2,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
KYOTO
Sep 15
WEST HARLEMCafe La Siesta 18th Anniversary (Chiptune/Electronic/Breakcore )DJS: Cycheouts G, Soichi Terada, Ally Nobs, + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • ACCESS:
Hankyu Kawaramachi Stn, Keihan shijo Stn • TEL: 050-1016-0099 • FACEBOOK: westharlem
OSAKA
Sep 16
CIRCUSPrins Thomas Japan Tour 2019 ~happy Monday Special!~ (House)DJS: Prins Thomas, Ageishi, Yama + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION:
TODD TERJEOSAKA
Sep 27
UMEDA CLUB QUATTRO
CLUB QUATTRO PRESENTS “NIGHT FOUNTAIN” TODD TERJE JAPAN TOUR 2019 (HOUSE/DISCO)Todd Terje is one of the most well-known DJs to come out of Norway. Best known for his 2012 house track Inspector Norse, he was listed number 17 on the list of “the 25 DJs that rule the earth” by Rolling Stone magazine. He released his first album It’s Album Time in 2014, which went on to be listed as one of “the 100 best albums of the decade so far” by Pitchfork. He has had considerable success outside of electronic music including co-writing the song Candy with Robbie Williams, which reached number one on the UK charts. His most recent work includes covers of the disco artists who shaped his sound.DJS: Todd Terje + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,600/1D ADV: ¥3,600/1D • ACCESS:
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6311-8111 • club-quattro.com
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 43
What’s On Clubs & NightlifeSee Kansaifinder.com for more
¥2,500 • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
OSAKA
Sep 16
PICCADILLY UMEDAPremium Live in Club Piccadilly - Nitro Microphone Underground- (Hip Hop)LIVE: Nitro Microphone Underground, Jaggra, No Name’s DJS: Hajime, B=Ball, Takumi + more • OPEN: 5pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥5,000/1D(ADV:
¥4,000/1D) • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly.com
OSAKA
Sep 20
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGELoyal (Open Format)DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS:
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:
06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
OSAKA
Sep 21
CIRCUSLicaxxx Japan Tour with Tcr in Osaka All Night Long (Techno)DJS: Licaxxx + more • OPEN:
11pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS:
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:
06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
OSAKA
Sep 21
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEEn:Core (Hip Hop/OpenFormat)DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
KYOTO
Sep 21
METRODJ Colaboy presents Homesick 42 -Dengaryu’ Ride On Time’ Release Party- (Hip Hop)ACTS: Dengaryu, Colaboy, Ce$, Ch.0, Nutsman + more • OPEN:
10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,800/1D (ADV:
¥3,300/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu
Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
OSAKA
Sep 21
MILULARIHard Techno Grooves#7.5 Osaka (Techno/Hard Techno/Trance)DJS: Loe, Hilock, Linn + more • OPEN: 1pm–9pm • ADMISSION:
¥3,000 • ACCESS: Namba Subway Stn, Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6606-9395 • milulari.com
HYOGO
Sep 21
VARIT.Troop Crossing feat. Mr. Ho (House/Techno)DJS: Mr. Ho, Masafumi Onishi, Shunjee, + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000/1D • ACCESS:
Sannomiya Subway Stn, Hankyu Sannomiya Stn, JR Sannomiya Stn • TEL: 078-335-8879 • varit.jp
OSAKA
Sep 22
COMPUFUNK RECORDSNiagara feat. Justin Van Der Volgen (Disco/House)DJS: Justin Van Der Volgen, Akihiro, Discoball Ikeda + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION:
¥2,500/1D • ACCESS: Kitahama Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6314-6541 • compufunk.com
OSAKA
Sep 22
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEWay Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS:
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:
06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
OSAKA
Sep 27
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGELoyal (Open Format)DJS: Imai, Danbo, Ayane, J Amour + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS:
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:
06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
OSAKA
Sep 28
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEEn:Core (Hip Hop/OpenFormat)DJS: Minami, B=Ball, Malu, Jun Tanaka + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: MEN: ¥2,000/1D, Women & FOREIGNERS: ¥700/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
OSAKA
Sep 29
GHOST ULTRA LOUNGEWay Up Sunday (Hip Hop/R&B/Reggae)DJS: Tact, Guri, Taishi, Lisa, Cero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION:
MEN: ¥1,500/1D. Women &FOREIGNERS: ¥1,500/1D • ACCESS:
Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL:
06-6214-0545 • ghostosaka.com
KYOTO
Sep 30
METROMint - September-only Released Tracks Night - (Techno/House)DJS: Kuwabara, Hisashi Aochi, Shintaro Fujita + more • OPEN:
10pm–3am • ADMISSION:
¥1,500/1D • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
Oct
KYOTO
Oct 4
METRODJ Colaboy presents Homesick 43 supportedby Cocalero, Nusa Cana(Electronic/House)DJS: Towa Tei, Tofubeats, Okadada, Halfby + more • OPEN:
10pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,000/1D (ADV:
¥3,500/1D) • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
OSAKA
Oct 6
NANKO SANKAKU KOENNanko De La Soul (House/Funk/Soul/Hip Hop/Jazz)LIVE: Jazzy Beats Collective, Soul Flowz, Yacel Sagarra,
“Peter Vawter Project” + more DJS: Yoshihiro Okino, Ageishi, Mightwhales, Max Pela, City Boy Lounge + more • OPEN:
11am–7pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,000/1D • ACCESS: Nanko Port Town line, Port Town Higashi Stn • TEL: 06-6615-7795 • iflyer.tv/ja/nanko_sankaku_park
KYOTO
Oct 30
METRO!!! (chk chk chk) “Wallop” Release Party Japan Tour (House/Dance)LIVE: !!! + more • OPEN: 7pm–11pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Keihan Jingu Marutamachi Stn • TEL:
075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
OSAKA
Nov 19
PICCADILLY UMEDANew Ôrder feat. DJ Mel & Ogamixxx (EDM/Future House)DJS: Mel, Ogamixxx, Shilver Fox, Shinji, Ray + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: TBA • ACCESS: Hankyu Umeda, JR Osaka • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly.com
OSAKA
Oct 5
CIRCUS
LEN FAKI JAPAN TOUR 2019 OSAKA (TECHNO/MINIMAL)Len Faki has been making popular techno for about 20 years and his tracks just keep getting better. The German producer started his label Figure in 2003 and became a resident DJ at the legendary Berghain nightclub in Berlin in 2004. In 2007, he became more well-known internationally with the success of his tracks Mekong Delta and My Black Sheep. Berlin continues to be the epicenter of the techno scene in no small part thanks to the efforts of Faki and his label. Len Faki comes from a scene where the party doesn’t stop just because the sun is up. His tracks are designed to keep everyone dancing into the afternoon and he’ll be bringing that energy to Osaka this October.DJS: Len Faki + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,600/1D(ADV:
¥3,100/1D • ACCESS: Shinsaibashi Subway Stn • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
Need more parties?See complete
listings online atkansaifinder.com
LEN FAKI
KYOTO
Honke OwariyaJAPANESE
Located in an atmospheric old wooden building, Honke Owariya is one of Kyoto’s oldest and best soba restaurants. Down the street from the Imperial Palace, you’ll find this over 500-year-old two-story restaurant, which looks a lot like a traditional Japanese house, doubling as a confectionary and noodle shop. The restaurant is decked out with wood furnishings, paper walls, sliding doors, small outdoor gardens, and tatami mats. It is very popular with locals, so get there early or be prepared to wait in line. Dishes range from plain bowls of noodles to full sets. Most of the seating is on tatami mat floors around low tables.322 Niomontsukinukecho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto
Osaka
SHINSAIBASHI
GAKUYA BURGERAMERICAN Yes, another hipster Osaka burger joint, but this one offers exclusively pork patties – an unusual take on an otherwise familiar theme. The interior has a woody, homemade vibe (in true hipster fashion), and the burgers are mouth-wateringly good, with a good range of options. 2-15-13 Kitahorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka
COMPTOIR 15FRENCH Run by owner-chef-sommelier Inoue-san, this small counter-style bistro offers authentic bistro style French cuisine and wines sourced directly from wineries in France. Book ahead.1 Chome-29-16 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka • Tel: 06-4390-0005
SAPPORO SOUP CURRY JACKJAPANESE One of Osaka’s most popular Uber Eats choices, this recent newcomer serves up excellent Sapporo-style soup curry – chicken and vegetables in a delicious dashi-infused spicy broth, served with saffron rice. 3-8-9 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6710-9654
ASIAN BAR RAMAI JAPANESE When walking into Abiko’s Asian Bar Ramai, you’ll feel like you’ve just stepped through a portal to South East
Asia but the cuisine on the menu is distinctly Hokkaido-esque. Spicy bowls of soupy curry with chunks of seared meat and vegetables with rice on the side await you.7-12-5 Kanda, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6657-7196
BOKKAKEYAJAPANESE Rustic noodle shop in Minami-semba serving delicious hand-cut buckwheat soba noodles in a delicate Kansai-style broth. During the evenings, the menu is expanded to include izakaya fare and a great selection of local sake.Nishi-ku, Shinmachi 1-2-13 1F • Tel 06-6535-2483 • soba-bokkakeya.com
LA GOLOSETTAPIZZERIA Authentic Napoli-style pizzeria serving up delicious pizzas and appetizers from its small two-storey location in Minami-semba.2-8-13 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6264-1225 • lagolosetta.web.fc2.com
TOFU SORANOJAPANESE Enjoy creative tofu dishes and izakaya favorites in this sleek Japanese restaurant featuring a modern, minimalist interior.4-5-6 Minami-kyuhojimachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-6120-0644 • foodgate.net/shop/sorano.html
WADCAFE This cafe and art gallery serves traditional Japanese
green tea in beautiful ceramic dishes.4-9-3 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL:
06-4708-3616 • wad-cafe.com
LA FINESTRAITALIAN Spacious open-plan restaurant offering pasta and other Italian dishes near Orix Theater.1-33-8 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL:
06-6606-9016
LA BELLE VIEFRENCH Authentic yet creative french bistro-style dining and decadent desserts.2-17-17 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku, Osaka • TEL:
06-6534-6686
CURRY DEKKAOETHNIC Sri Lankan-style curries in a cosy, no frills eatery in Minamisemba. Large colorful masks highlight its 2nd floor location.3-8-5 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka • TEL: 06-4963-3746
OSAKA CHAKAICAFE Choose your favorite premium rokucha green tea and have it freshly ground for you at this stylish cafe serving green tea drinks and desserts in Minami-morimachi.1F 2-1-25 Tenjinbashi, Kita-ku, Osaka • TEL:
06-6755-4789 • www.osakachakai.jp/eng
PIZZERIA DA TIGREITALIAN A down-to-earth pizzeria serving up a tasty range of authentic, sensibly priced Napoli-style pizzas. Pizzas are
ordered via a ramen shop-style ticket machine. Sit at their u-shaped counter or takeaway.1-18-13 Shinmachi, Nishi-ku • Tel. 06-6535-8624
KUUSHINCHINESE Choose from daily A or B set lunches or an evening course of creative chinese cuisine at one of the tastiest chinese restaurants in Osaka. Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 06-6532-7729
TOKI NO HACHINESE Delicious bowls of noodles and freshly steamed dumplings are the main draw at this chinese tea emporium run by the same owner/chef as Kuushin. Nishi Ward, Shinmachi, 1−21−2 • Tel. 06-6532-6001
COCOWELL CAFEJAPANESE Healthy, coconut-laced lunch plates and desserts are the focus of this all-day dining eco-friendly cafe in Horie.Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-13-21 • TEL: 06-6531-5572
BASE ISLAND KITCHENETHNIC This tiny counter-only restaurant serves up an eclectic mix of delicious tapas ranging from vegetarian and vegan dishes to Jamaican Jerk Chicken! Open until 5pm daily.Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-16-27
FLIC
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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com44
Food & Drink
HYOGO
Modernark pharm cafeVEGETARIAN
A healthy lunch haven just 10 minutes’ walk from Sannomiya Station, this charming wood-furnished eatery serves up wholesome lunch sets like vegetarian curry rice, green salads with brown rice (genmai), and vegetable wraps for around ¥1,000. If you come for afternoon tea, try the banana cake, coconut tiramisu, or matcha and cream cheese pound cake. For drinks, there’s everything from organic rose hip tea to soy matcha au lait, or a hot “black zinger” – a nutritious drink made from black soybeans. Great care is taken here to use organic, healthy, and local ingredients.3-11-15 Kitanagasadori, Chuo Ward, Kobe
TABIJI KITCHENETHNIC Choose your dish by its country of origin, in this comfortable restaurant that serves up everything from Vietnamese pho to English Shepherd’s Pie, depending on the day of the week.Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-14-20 • TEL: 06-6567-8403
CRAFT BURGERAMERICAN Run by a friendly Aussie expat and his wife, Craft Burger offers a delicious selection of burgers of which the patties, buns, and all their sauces are handmade with the freshest ingredients.Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-6 • TEL: 06-6556-6682
BISTRO NEW ORLEANSAMERICAN Authentic New Orleans-style restaurant, serving up Creole and Cajun dishes from its cosy Shinsaibashi location.Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-15-10 • TEL: 06-6543-7071
SAUCE BOSSAMERICAN Serving up mouth-watering chicken wings in a huge variety of flavors, with craft beer and original fresh fruit cocktails to wash them down.Nishi-ku, Kitahorie, 1-5-13 • TEL: 06-7171-7938
HANA SAKE BARBARS With friendly English-speaking staff on hand to guide you, try a range of local sake and other Japanese spirits at this casual bar in the heart of Shinsaibashi.1-8-4, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo-ku
AN NGONETHNIC An Ngon certainly lives up to its name, meaning “it’s delicious” in Vietnamese. The cozy restaurant is adorned with traditional masks and other Vietnamese decorations and boasts an extensive menu.4-11-24 Minamisenba Chuo-ku • TEL:
06-6282-4567
CAFE ABSINTHEETHNIC Stylish Mediterranean restaurant and bar serving craft cocktails, and excellent food, including hummus, falafel and babaganoush.Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-2-27 • TEL: 06-6534-6635
PAPRIKA SHOKUDOJAPANESE Vegetarian/vegan restaurant serving creative meat-free dishes - so flavorsome you could swear you were eating meat sometimes!Shinmachi 1-9-9, Nishi-ku • TEL: 06-6599-9788
EL PANCHOMEXICAN Serving up authentic Mexican fare since 1978, El Pancho offers great value combo plates and a happy hour that runs from 11:30am–5pm daily!Shinsaibashi Tower Bldg. 8F • TEL: 06-6241-0588
ALI’S KITCHENETHNIC Halal-certified Pakistani and Arabic cuisine, with over 200 menu items, including their popular goat brain masala and signature biryani dishes.B1 1-10-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku • TEL:
06-4708-5745
SATURDAYS NYCCAFES AND TEAROOMS Laid-back, spacious cafe cum boutique with a large island counter to recharge both your laptop and your senses.4-13-22 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku • TEL:
06-4963-3711
TAVOLA 36ITALIAN Occupying the 36th floor of the Swissôtel in Namba, this upscale restaurant serves an excellent buffet lunch and offers some fantastic views over the city day or night.5-1-60 Namba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6646-5125
MURPHY’S IRISH PUBBARS Japan’s oldest Irish bar and proud to provide the cheapest full pint in Osaka, Guinness and Kilkenny direct from Ireland, and a comprehensive selection of whiskeys and spirits.Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-Suji 1-5-2 2F • TEL:
06-6245-3757
THE BLARNEY STONEBARS Irish pub in the heart of Shinsaibashi with live bands,
great food and international staff. Happy Hour until 8pm.Higashi-Shinsaibashi 2-5-27 Koda Bldg. B1F • TEL: 06-6468-2220
SUSHI KAIBAJAPANESE Marrying a modern Japanese interior with authentic nigiri-zushi, Kaiba sets the standard for casual sushi dining. Choose from set courses or a la carte.Kitahorie 1-15-22 • TEL: 06-6532-2918
THE SUITEWINE AND COCKTAILS Modeled after a 1920s New York hotel suite, this place is as suave as it gets and the perfect spot for some post-dinner cocktails. Featuring live entertainment every weekend on its chandelier-lit stage area.Chuo Ward, Nishishinsaibashi, 2-18-18 • TEL: 06-6282-7742
ZERROBARS Popular Shinsaibashi bar with live DJs every weekend and no cover charge. Great food, cocktails and international beers from 500 yen.Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 2-3-2 • TEL:
06-6211-0439
UMEDA
MAÎTRE RENARDFRENCH Fine French cuisine with an Osaka twist in Dojima, created from organic local ingredients and served in stylish yet unpretentious surroundings. Hatsune Bldg. 2F, 1-5-4 Dojima Kita-ku, Osaka • Tel: 06-6147-633
BEER BELLYCRAFT BEER BARS Osaka’s local award-winning brewery, Minoh Beer, runs a brewpub in Higobashi. Serving seasonal brews as well as its regular lineup on tap, including its award winning stout and decent bar food.Nishi-ku, Tosabori 1-1-30 • TEL: 06-6441-0717
PIERREFRENCH The InterContinental Osaka’s 20th floor Michelin-starred restaurant features a seasonal fine dining menu in sophisticated surroundings.3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita-ku • TEL: 06-6374-5700
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Food & DrinkSee Kansaifinder.com for more
OUTBACK STEAKHOUSEAMERICAN Australian-themed steakhouse chain, serving up juicy steaks, ribs, and seafood.Kita-ku, Dojima 1-6-20 • TEL: 06-6457-7121
HARDROCK CAFEAMERICAN International chain offering authentic American favorites – including its famous burgers and smokehouse sandwiches – and live music on the weekends.3-6-14 Minami-Hommachi, Chuo-ku • TEL:
06-6120-5711
BROOKLYN ROASTING COMPANY (KITAHAMA)CAFES AND TEAROOMS Great coffee and relaxing decor at this wonderful riverside location in Kitahama, overlooking the Central Public Hall.2 Chome-1-16 Kitahama, Chuo Ward • TEL:
06-6125-5740
TENNOJI
CASUAL KAPPOU IIDAKAPPOU Enjoy exquisite Japanese cuisine served in multiple courses at this nine-seater casual kappou restaurant. Reservations recommended. 1−1−1 Uehonmachi, Tennoji Ku, Osaka • Tel: 080-2423-4590
LEZZET CRAFTBEER & FOOD EXPERIENCECRAFT BEER BARS A craft beer bar with a great tap selection and extensive food menu, including
weekly specials and full-plate pasta dinners. No smoking.Abeno-ku, Matsuzaki-cho 2-3-21 • TEL:
06-7850-1412
TIN’S HALLBARS A perennial favorite for many expats, serving good bar food and drinks. Look out for happy hour from 6–9pm where a beer and generously sized burger combo is just 1,000yen. Free live music on Saturday nights.Tennoji Ward, Minamikawahoricho, 10−3 • TEL: 06-6773-5955
DARUMAJAPANESE No frills, kushikatsu (deep-fried battered meat and vegetables on sticks) dining in front of Tsutenkaku Tower. Remember the golden rule when reaching for the sauce – no double dipping!Osaka, Naniw-ku, Ebisucho-higashi 2-3-9 • TEL: 06-6645-7056
ZUBORAYAJAPANESE One of Shinsekai’s iconic restaurants. Look for the giant blowfish lantern that seems to be floating in midair. Whatever form of blowfish you can imagine, Zuboraya has it at an affordable price.Naniwa-Ku, Ebisu-Higashi 2-5-5 • TEL:
06-6633-5529
AOI NAPOLI IN THE PARKITALIAN Airy two-storey trattoria serving quality pizza and pasta, located in the recently renovated Tenshiba park area. Good choice for families with children.
5-55 Chausuyamacho, Tennoji-ku • TEL:
06-6773-2225
Kyoto
IN THE MOONROOFTOP BAR Low-key music, tasteful lighting, and reasonable prices make this rooftop haven the ultimate location for an evening cocktail.200 RF Kamogawa Bldg, Nakanocho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto • Tel: 075-708-6966
GOMACRO SALONVEGAN Gomacro is paradise for sesame fans. Everything on the menu—including drinks and desserts—is sesame-based. As well as being vegan, the focus is on healthy and seasonal food. 67-3 Shinmeicho, Nakagyo ward, Kyoto • 075-257-5096
SPICE CHAMBERETHNIC Counter-style curry restaurant serving up fiery Indian-style curries, accompanied with homemade pickles.1F Fukui Bldg., 502 Hakurakuten-cho, Muromachi-dori, Ayanokoji-sagaru, Shimogyo-ku • 075-342-3813 • spicechamber.com
ROCK BAR INGBAR A stalwart of the Kiyamachi bar scene since 1998, this small but cosy rock’n’roll bar promises good times, cheap beer and great music.
288-201 Minami Kuruyamacho, Nishi Kiyamachidori Takoyakushi-Agaru, Nakagyo-Ku • Tel: 075-255-5087
BEER KOMACHICRAFT BEER BARS A small izakaya-style dining bar with seven taps of Japanese craft beer and a good sake menu to boot. Serves excellent food.444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL:
075-746-6152
KYOTO BEER LABCRAFT BEER BARS A cosy brewpub run by Kyoto’s own ChaBeer Brewing Company, offering some rather unusual beers, including its American Hopped Green Tea Pale Ale, infused with green tea grown in nearby Wazuka-cho.Shimogyo-ku Juzenjicho, 3 201 • TEL:
075-352-6666
MILTON’S KYOTOBARS Cosy hole-in-the-wall 8-seater bar run by English-speaking local artist, Milton. A huge choice of liquors to choose from, including a good range of rums and whiskies. Non smoking.Nakagyo Ward, Yamazakicho 246 2F
UMENOHANA KARASUMAJAPANESE Tofu in all its forms and variations, coupled with seasonal vegetables and presented in a stunning fine dining setting. English menu available.Nakagyo Ward, Karasuma-Rokkaku, West 18 Bldg. B1F • TEL: 075-254-0566
OSAKA
Uranamba TorameyokochoJAPANESE
Roam east of Namba Station into Ura-Namba and look for the vermillion torii marking the entrance to Torame Yokocho. Here you’ll find a delicious repertoire of Osaka favorites like okonomiyaki and kushikatsu alongside sushi, sashimi, yakiniku, and more. The best thing about Torame Yokocho is that you can dine at one table but order from all the different restaurants within the complex. A fun, casual vibe, this is the perfect place to bring a small group for a low-key lunch or dinner where you can sample many different types of dishes.2-3-15 Sennichimae, Chuo-ku, Osaka
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Food & Drink
KATSUKURA SANJOJAPANESE Grind your own sesame seeds at this stylish chain of tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurants. Great value set meals including all-you-can-eat rice, miso soup and shredded cabbage. The Sanjo branch is the original store.16, Ishibashicho, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075-212-3581
KUSHIKURAJAPANESE Charcoal grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables dishes served in a beautiful 100-year-old traditional kyo-machiya house.584 Hiiragi-cho Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075-213-2211
FALAFEL GARDENETHNIC Laid-back Israeli cafe and restaurant near Demachiyanagi. Authentic falafel and other vegetarian-friendly options available.15-2 Tanaka Kamiyanagicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto • TEL: 075-712-1856 • www.falafelgarden.com
NISHITOMIYA CROQUETTE SHOPFUSION RESTAURANTS Gourmet croquettes paired with wine and tasty appetizers served in a cozy bar; at wine barrels that double as tables or on stools at the counter. These special fusion croquettes are even available for takeout.Kyoto, Shimogyo Ward, Kawaramachi Matsubara Sagaru Uematsu-cho 735 • TEL:
075-202-9837
Hyogo
DAIZUYAVEGETARIAN The variety of Daizuya’s soy-based offerings—including firm and soft tofu, regional varieties, and even tofu skin with avocado—is matched only by the range of condiment options. If you’re not fond of bean curd, see the à la carte menu for alternatives, such as grilled chicken, or shrimp and avocado salad.
Eagle Bldg B1F, 4−7−20 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 050-5285-7538
CAFE AGEHAJAPANESE A perfect pit stop after a morning exploring the Kitano area, Ageha serves healthy brown rice lunch sets and tempting fruit tarts from its spacious location near the top of Tor Road. 2-4-8 Nakayamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-321-2780
UNDERGROUND BAKERYBAKERIES AND PATISSERIES Scones, brownies, Victoria sponge cakes - this little bakery is a homage to British baking, but sells out fast.5-1-1 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • ugbakery.com
BAAN THAITHAI Popular Thai restaurant tucked away near Ikuta-jinja shrine, that offers spicy Thai favorites in cosy surroundings.1-8-8 Kitanagasadori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL:
078-391-0545
BAKERY RIKIBAKERIES AND PATISSERIES Tiny bakery in Motomachi drawing crowds with its impressive range of freshly baked breads and sweet treats. Get there early.2-7-4 Sakaemachidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-392-8585
SONA RUPAINDIAN Upscale authentic Indian dining with a warm spacious atmosphere, popular with Kobe expats.2-2-9 Yamate-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL:
078-322-0252
HONG KONG SWEETS CAFE TIM MA MACHINESE Delightfully retro interior and authentic Hong Kong-style chinese tea and desserts, served at tables labelled as Hong Kong metro stations.3-1-16 Sannomiyacho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-322-3530 • tim-ma-ma.com
BONDITALIAN A spacious, sleek open plan interior serving up quality pasta dishes and trattoria-style mains just in front of the Mosque in Kobe’s Kitano area. Their chocolate tart with mountain-sansho is a real treat.Kobe, Chuo-ku, Yamate-dori 3-3-5 • TEL:
078-252-0052
INDUSRAY
ETHNIC Authentic southern-Indian home-cooked food, served from this small, cosy family-run restaurant in Motomachi. The lamb or chicken biryani comes highly recommended.Chuo-ku, Motomachi-dori 3-11-10 • TEL:
078-332-1660
TRITON CAFECAFES & TEAROOMS Popular, stylish open-plan cafe on Kitano-zaka, serving up food all day, including bistro-style lunch plates and homemade desserts.1-23-16 Nakayamatedori, Chuo-ku • TEL:
078-251-1886
PIZZERIA AZZURRIITALIAN Delicious authentic Napoli-style pizzas and antipasto, served from a small location near Kitano. One of the most popular pizzerias in Kobe, so be sure to make a reservation, or arrive early.Chuo Ward, Yamamotodori, 3-7-3 • TEL:
078-241-6036
GYOSHO TAKA-AKISEAFOOD RESTAURANTS A haven for seafood lovers in the center of Kobe. There’s an upstairs and a downstairs and on the way in, there are tanks and boxes brimming with the fruits of the ocean—succulent tuna, creamy sea urchin, and chewy abalone—straight from Kobe’s central fish market. One of four restaurants in the Taka-Aki family, this flagship branch also boasts a well-stocked bar.4-5-3 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL:
050-5869-0268
FARMSTANDJAPANESE Farm-to-table is the concept at this Kitano-zaka cafe and market serving healthy and nutritious lunch sets (¥1,000), homemade cakes, and local dairy soft-serve ice cream.1-7-15 Yamamoto-dori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • eatlocalkobe.org
Need more dining options?
See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com
DA
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HYOGO
Yidaki CafeVEGAN
Organic vegan fare anywhere in Japan is a rarity, but head to this cosy second floor eatery in Motomachi and enjoy a delicious plant-based lunch plate or coconut curry. Their falafel pita bread sandwich also hits all the right notes. Just around the corner from the BAL building.3-3-6 2F Sannomiya-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-335-0520
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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com48
Maps & Info
Getting AroundThe Kansai area covers the prefectures of Osaka, Kyoto, Hyogo, Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and Shiga. There is so much to explore, so you’ll need to prioritize your time wisely. Its main travel hubs are Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, all of which are well connected by high-speed rail networks, including the shinkansen (bullet train).On regular trains, you can travel between Osaka and Kyoto in about 45 mins, and between Kobe and Osaka in about 30 mins. If you are here on holiday, pick up a convenient travel pass, such as the Kansai Thu Pass (surutto.com) or Kansai One Pass (kansaionepass.com), to avoid having to negotiate the ticket machines. Use a website such as HyperDia (hyperdia.com) to check train times and platforms from your smartphone.
Trains and SubwaysThere is an excellent rail network connecting all corners of Kansai. As well as JR (Japan Rail), there are numerous private railway companies servicing the area, including Keihan (Osaka/Kyoto), Hankyu (Osaka/Kyoto), Nankai (Osaka, Wakayama, Koya), Hanshin (Osaka/Kobe), and Kintetsu (Osaka/Nara/Mie/Nagoya). Each line operates several types of train. For the fastest trains, look for the Limited Express service trains. Be aware that Local trains stop at every station on the line, so only take them if no other type of train stops at your station. Subways operate in Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto and are an extremely efficient way to get around the cities.Tip: Pick up a Railway Network map from a major station or Tourist Information Center.
BusesFor out-of-the-way locations, or in certain cities such as Kyoto, you may need to take a bus. A travel pass usually includes travel on municipal bus services.
TaxisFares start from ¥500. The drivers wearing white gloves and official hats tend to be the most courteous, but don’t expect English to be widely understood. Have your destination name and address on hand in Japanese. As of February 2019, taxis can now be ordered using the Uber app.
Airport TransfersTo/from downtown Osaka, the most convenient option is the Nankai Rapi:t Express service (KIX <> Namba 42mins) or a Limousine Bus. To/from Kyoto, take the JR Airport Express HARUKA service (75 mins).
ATMs and Credit CardsIf you’re using Visa, you will be able to withdraw cash at most bank or convenience-store ATMs. If you’re using Mastercard, your best bet for withdrawing money is at 7-Eleven ATMs. Most other ATMs in Kansai do not accept Mastercard. It is not common to make in-store payments using credit or visa-debit cards in Japan, even for expensive purchases. Many shops and restaurants do not offer this service, so be sure to carry plenty of cash with you.
Wi-FiGetting connected in Kansai can be tricky. Renting a smartphone or SIM card at the airport is the safest option, to connect to the internet over a 3G or 4G network. In Osaka, you can access the Osaka Free Wi-Fi service at train and subway stations, stores and facilities throughout the prefecture.
Accidents and EmergenciesAmbulance/Fire service: Tel. 119Police: Tel. 110
GET KANSAI SCENEKansai Scene is available from the following major outlets in the Kansai region:
OSAKA
Hotels and Guesthouses
Conrad Osaka, Hyatt Regency, Nikko Hotel, St. Regis, Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Ritz Carlton, Hilton Osaka, Fraser Residence Nankai Osaka, InterContinental Hotel Osaka
Tourist Information Centers
Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Osaka), Hankyu Tourist Center Umeda, Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Namba), Kansai Tourist Information Center (KIX), Kansai Tourist Information Center (Shinsaibashi), Nankai Information Center (Namba)
Shops
Kinokuniya Bookstore Umeda, Kinokuniya Honmachi, Tower Records Umeda, Junkudo Namba, Hard Rock Cafe
KYOTO
Hotels and Guesthouses
Royal Hotel, Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto, Kyoto Nikko Hotel
Tourist Information Centers
Kyoto Tourist Information Center, Kansai Tourist Information Center Kyoto, Kyoto International Community House
Shops
Junkudo Kyoto, Maruzen & Junkudo Kyoto Main Store, GEAR
KOBE
Hotels and Guesthouses
Kobe Bay Sheraton, Kobe Portopia Hotel
Tourist Information Centers
Kobe International Community Center, Hyogo International Plaza
Shops
Junkudo Nishinomiya, Junkudo Sannomiya, Kinokuniya Kobe
Welcome To Kansai
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 49
Maps & InfoSee Kansaifinder.com for more
FUKUSHIMA
KITAHAMA
EDOBORI
DOJIMA NISHI TENMAHanshin Expressway (Loop Route)
Tenmabashi
Naniwabashi
NAKANOSHIMA
Watanabebashi
Oebashi
Chuo Line
Keihan-Nakanoshima Line
KITA SHINCHI
35F
Hanshin Main Line
Route No.2
Fukushima Sta.
JR Tozai Line
Tosabori Dori
Honmachi Dori
Shin-Fukushima Sta.
Nakan
oshi
ma S
ta.
Fukushima Sta.
Dojima River
Higobashi
HankyuUmeda Sta.
HankyuTouristCenter
Osaka Station City
Um
eda
Hanshin Umeda Sta.
Nis
hi U
med
aDai-1Bldg.
Kita Shinchi
Dai-2Bldg.
Dai-4Bldg. Osaka Dental
Clinic
Creamy
MaekawaLegal Group
Dai-3Bldg.
Yotsubashi Line
Tosabori River
Midosuji Line
Miyako
jima-d
ori
Hankyu Higashidori Arcade
Osaka Loop Line
Shin Midosuji
Midosuji
Yotsubashisuji
Naniw
asuji
Amidaikesuji
Higashi U
meda
Nakazaki-c
ho
Tanimachi Line
Chuo Odori
Sakaisuji LineK
itahama
Nakanoshima Dori
Yodoyabashi
Ogimachi Park
Loft
Kinokuniya
ClubQuattro
Always
umedaTRAD
USConsulate
Hotel Kansai
The BlarneyStone
HanshinDept.
Junkudo
SonezakiPolice H.Q.
Toho Cinemas Umeda
HankyuDept.
The NationalMuseum of Art,Osaka
ScienceMuseum
TAKAMURA Wine & CoffeeRoasters
YodobashiCamera
JR OsakaLucua 1100
Osaka StationCity Cinema Lucua
HotelGranvia
HiltonPlaza West
TGI Fridays
City Hall
Osaka City Public Hall
Library
Brooklyn Roasting Company Kitahama
Club Noon
Kids PlazaOsaka
WestinHotel
MisterKelly’s
Herbis Osaka
Hotel Monterey Osaka
Hearton Hotel Nishiumeda
Rihga RoyalHotel
Osaka InternationalConvention Center(Grand Cube Osaka)
Sumitomo Hosp.
TowerRecords
The Ritz-CarltonOsaka
HotelHanshin
Drop InnOsaka
MaruBldg.
HiltonHotel
NTT Data
ABC Hall
Dojima River Forum
YMCA
Craft BeerBase Garden
OSTEC Exibition Hall
Beer Belly
RihgaNakanoshima
Inn
APA Hotel
ConradOsaka
Mitsui Garden Hotel
Hotel Kinki
Visitors’InformationCenter
DaimaruUmeda
Umeda SkyBuilding
Cine Libre Umeda
Post Office
Utsubo Park
Kitamido
Utsubo Tennis Center
Honmachi Sakaisujihommachi
Bank of Japan
Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kitahama
APA VillaHotel
FestivalHall
Nakanoshima Festival Tower West
Ana CrownePlaza
ACCJKansai
Hotel ElsereineOsaka
Dojima Hotel
Mitsui SumitomoBank
Museum of Oriental Ceramics
GARB Weeks
Nii Fine Arts
Elmers Green Cafe
il Bar CentralBanco
Daiichi Group
Hard Rock Cafe Osaka
Dojima Avanza
HerbisEnt
InterContinental Osaka Hotel
HankyuGrand Bldg
Grand FrontOsaka /KnowledgeCapital
UmekitaPlaza
German Consulate
Hep 5Hep Navio
TheaterUmeda
New HankyuOsaka Hotel
H&M
Hub
OWL Osaka
ClubAzul
TohoAnnex
Maruzen & Junkudo
Craft Beer Base
The Symphony Hall
Shangrila
UmedaBurg7
OsakaYWCA
KitanoHosp.
Hanshin Expressw
ay (Moriguchi R
oute)
Hanshin Expressway
Hon
mac
hi
Hon
mac
hi
APA Hotel
The St. Regis,Osaka
Soai High School Starbucks
Starbucks
2F
33F
6F
3/4F3RD WORD Beer
MelbourneCoffeeOutback
Steakhouse
Exeo
Captain Kangaroo
Noon+Cafe
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Maps & Info
SHINMACHI
SHINSAIBASHI
SOEMON-CHO
DOTONBORI
NAMBA
KITA-HORIE
NIPPON-BASHI
HIGASHI-SHINSAIBASHI
MINAMI-HORIE
INARI
MINAMI-SEMBA
Nishiohashi
Yots
ubas
hi
Dotonbori River
Nan
iwa-
suji
Nam
ba
JR N
amba
Sta
.
Nam
ba Sta.
NambaSennichimae line
Saka
isuj
i lin
e
Suomachi-dori (Europe street)
Shin
saib
ashi
-suj
i (sh
oppi
ng a
rcad
e)Sh
insa
ibas
hi-s
uji (
shop
ping
arc
ade)
Orange Street (shopping street)
NagahoribashiNagahori Tsurumi-Ryokuchi line
Nagahori dori
Shinsaibashi
Mid
osuj
i lin
e
Ota
road2F
4F
Yots
ubas
hi li
ne
2F
Ark Hotel
Tokyu Hands
GAPLouis Vuitton
Hearton Hotel
Osaka Convention & Tourism Bureau
NambaShrine
ComfortHotel
FujiyaHotel
Dormy Inn
KaneyoshiRyokan
KinryuRamen
ibis StylesOsaka
Vista GrandeOsaka
DaimaruDept.North
Hotel SunrouteOsaka Namba
Osaka Floral Inn
GhostUltralounge
Cinem@rt
Banco
Vano
CraftBurger
Circus
CafeAbsinthe
Critters Burger
EXODUS
NikkoHotel
Via Inn
HotelMystays
Nishitetsu Inn
Osaka Hana Hostel
Big Step
Silver BallPlanet
El Pancho
Zerro
Coolabah
AbsintheSolaar
GS Travel
ArthurMurray
MaharajaMinami
CoventGarden
Ali’s Kitchen
Uniqlo
OPA
CrossHotel
APAHotel
DormyInn
HotelLions Rock
DotonboriHotel
Kansai TouristInformation Center
HotelIchiei
Casa Lapichu
McDonaldsOsaka PrefecturalGymnasium
Naniwa SportsCenter
Naniwa Post Office
Naniwa Ward Office
FraserResidence
B1
PureOsaka Don Quijote
Vanity
Namba PlazaHotel
APA Hotel
BIC Camera
MUJI/LOFTTower Records
Maruzen
Toys”R”Us
Animate Nihonbashi Shop
K2 record
Sofmap
NambaOrientalHotel
MisonoBuilding
Singh’s Kitchen
KuromonMarket
Jazz BarB-Roxy
NationalBunrakuTheater
Junkudo
AEONMaxValu
OCAT
AppleStore
DaimaruDept.
DaimaruDept.South
NaniwaPark
HoriePark
Shinmachi Kita Park
Sun Hall
Slices
Joule
Triangle Park
Little Long Beach
Music Bar S.O.R.a
WestwoodBakers
TezukayamaGallery
Ohno MemorialHospital
Hotel Monterey Grasmere Osaka
TominagaHospital
NambaHatch
SwissôtelNankai Osaka
Nankai NambaStation
YamadaDenkiLABI1 Namba
NambaPARKS
NAMBA PARKS CINEMA
TakashimayaDept. Store
Toho Cinemas Namba annex
Toho Cinemas Namba
Don Quijote
Mexico
Rooftop Bar OO
ALZAR
New JapanSpa Plaza Osaka
Shochikuza
HozenjiTemple
L&LROR Comedy
NAMBA-NAKA
MOTO-MACHI
VisitorsInformation
Center
Namba Hips
MoeJoe
Anngon
MizuhoBank
B1Burlesque
Bar JaaiJANUS
Murphy’s
The BlarneyStone B1F
soma Cinquecento
FootRock&BEERS
Minami Police Station
Shimanouchi Library
Triangle
Hotel Via InnHeartonHotel
Daiwa Roynet Hotel
Toyoko Inn
Pub Bar 30
Nipponbashi sta.
HeartonHotel
Nest HotelYamaya
Big Beans Supermarket
Life
Jack & Queen
3F
2F2F
5F
8F
Kokopelli
SauceBoss
El Zocalo
SabotenBase
Chaolua
BistroNewOrleans
bi-grace nail
Saturdays NYC
Boy
The Suite
TABIJI KitchenGranknot
Coffee
Balabushka
MustangMoonshine
Moon Tower
OSA
KA
Shi
nsai
bash
i A
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3
4
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C
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Maps & InfoSee Kansaifinder.com for more
TENMA
KYOBASHI
TAMATSUKURI
OsakaCastle
OsakaTemmangu Shrine
OsakaCastle Park
MorinomiyaQ’s Mall BASE
Osaka JogakuinCollege
Osaka Museumof HistoryNHK
Osaka Hall
The Lutheran Hotel
APA Hotel
Osaka PrefecturalGovernment Office
Osaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry
MyDomeOsaka Yamamoto
Noh Theater
Osaka-joHall
Hotel New OtaniOsaka
Izumi Hall
AEON Kyobashi
Taiko-en
Hotel MontereyLa Souer Osaka
Keihan Mall
Mint Museum
KKR HotelOsaka
Subw
ay Im
azat
o Li
ne
Osa
ka L
oop
Line
Tozai Line
Keihan Main Line
Subw
ay T
anim
achi
Lin
e
Hanshin Expressway Higashi Osaka Route
Subw
ay S
akai
suji
Line
Subway Chuo Line
Han
shin
Exp
ress
way
Kita
ham
a
Tani
mac
hi 4
-cho
me
Tenmabashi
Tenm
abas
hi
Osaka Tenmangu
Minam
i-Morim
achi
Osaka Business Park
Osa
ka-j
o K
oen
Morinom
iyaKyobashi
Shigino
Kyobashi
Osakajo-
kitazume
Saka
isuj
i Hon
mac
hiOsaka Chakai
Museum of Oriental Ceramics
EBISUNISHI
SHITENNOJI
Osaka MunicipalUniversity Hospital
Abeno Q’s Mall
Abeno Harukas
TennojiMIO
Hoop
ROCKTOWN4F
LanguageSchool
Tin’s HallKansai KyoikuUniversity
Shitennoji
ShitennojiHonbo
Osaka TennojiZooSpa World
TennojiWard Office
Tenshiba
Osaka CityMuseumof Fine Arts
Tsutenkaku
ImamiyaEbisu Shrine
ZeppNamba
TennojiSta.
Osaka-Abenobashi
Aben
o St
a.
Shin-Imamiya
Nan
kai S
hin-
Imam
iya
Dobutsuen-mae
Ebis
ucho
Imam
iyae
bisuDai
koku
cho
Tera
dach
o
Tenn
oji S
ta.
Shite
nnoj
i-m
aeYu
higa
oka
Nan
kai M
ain
Line
Yots
ubas
hi L
ine
Sakaisuji Line
Kansai Main Line
Han
kai T
ram
way
Hanwa Line
JR Kansai Main Line
Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line
Midosuji Line
Tani
mac
hi L
ine
Osak
a Lo
op L
ine
Mom
odan
i
Koboreguchi Sta.
Imai
ke
Hag
inoc
haya
Han
azon
ocho
Imfu
ne
Han
shin
Exp
ress
Rou
te 1
CocoMomo&Co.
Lezzet
OSA
KA
Osaka C
astleO
SAK
A Tennoji
A
A
1
2
1
2
B
B
C
C
D
D
A
A
1
2
1
2
B
B
C
C
D
D
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com52
Maps & Info
Nijo
Shichijo
Gojo
Shijo
Karasuma Kawaramachi
Gio
n-Sh
ijo
Marutam
achi
Jingu-Marutam
achi
Kam
ogaw
a R
iver
Tozai Subway Line Kyotoshiyakusho-mae
Sanjokeihan
Sanj
o
Kyoto Brewing Co.
Zuirinji Temple
Toji
Tofukuji Temple
Komyoin
Imakumano-Jinja Shrine
Toyokuni-JinjaShrine
Ichihime-Jinja Shrine
Bukkoji Temple
Amore Kiyamachi
Shoenji Temple
Kyoto-Daijingu Shrine
Nyorinin Hozoji Temple
Hotel Nikko Princess Kyoto
MitsuiGarden Hotel
Mibudera Temple
Hanano Yu
Kotoku Park
Sumiya Motenashi Museum
Kyoto National Museum
Chisaku-in Temple Sanjusangendo
Otani Hombyo Cemetary
to Kiyomizu-dera
Yasui Konpiragu Shrine
Seikoro
HigashiyamaWard Office
Kyoto GojoHotel Shuhokaku
Yumeyakata Gojo
Daisenji
Kennin-ji Temple Hojo
Yasaka Shrine
Kyoto Station
Kyoto Tower
Yodobashi Camera
Bic CameraRhiga Royal Hotel
APA Hotel
Hotel KeihanKyoto Grande
El Inn Kyoto
Kyoto Terrsa
Sakura Terrace
Hotel Granvia
Kyoto Century Hotel
Hyatt RegencyKyoto
Four SeasonsHotel Kyoto
New Miyako Hotel
HigashiHonganjiTemple
Shosei-en GardenNishiHonganjiTemple
Kyoto AquariumKyoto RailwayMuseum
Aeon Mall
Rokusonno-Jinja Shrine
Nijo Castle
Clamp CoffeeSasara
Rokkakudo Temple
Honnoji Temple Marker KyotoArt Center
Shounji
Village Kyoto
The Museum of Kyoto
Loft
Kyoto BALRound One
Kyoto City Hall
The Ritz-Carlton
Hotel Okura
Kyoto InternationalManga Museum
Hostel Mundo Chiquito
Nakamura General Store
Mikane-Jinja Shrine
Hearton Hotel
Umekoji Park
Oji
Kuj
o
Tofu
kuji
Tambaguchi
Omiya
Kyoto PrefecturalPolice Station
Nijojo-Mae
Shin-Omiya
Kar
asum
a O
ike
Higashiyama
to Maruyama Park
Gion Shirakawa
Gion Corner
Nishiki Market
to Heian Shrine
Yoboji Temple
to K
yoto
Im
pera
l Pal
ace
KYO
TO C
entr
al
A
A
1
2
3
4
5
1
2
3
4
5
B
B
C
C
D
D
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 53
Maps & InfoSee Kansaifinder.com for moreK
YOTO
North
KYO
TO Sanjo
Mototanaka Sta.
Chayama Sta.
Ichijo-ji Sta.
Shugaku-in Sta.
Takaragaike Sta.
Miyake-Hachiman Sta.
Kokusaikaikan Sta.
Matsugasaki Sta.Kitayama Sta.
Kitaouji Sta.
Kurama-guchi Sta.
Kitano Hakubaicho Sta.
Imadegawa Sta.
Demachiyanagi Sta.
Sekizanzen-in Temple
Myoen-ji
Yusen-ji
Rinkyuji Temple
Manshu-inMonzeki Temple
Hachidai-Jinja Shrine
Konpuku-ji Temple
Shisen-do Temple
Enkou-ji Temple
Saginomori Shrine
Saginomori Imperial Villa
ICC Kyoto
Takaragaike Park
Kyoto Botanical Garden
Kawai-Jinja Shrine
Shimogamo-Jinja
Shokoku-ji Temple
HyakumanbenChion-ji Temple
Yoshida-jinja ShrineKyoto Imperial Palace
Aisen-ji Temple
Daishougun Hachi Shrine
Kitano Tenmangu
Hirano-Jinja Shrine
Kinkaku-ji
KinugasaJoshu-ji Temple
Imamiya Shrine
Koutou-in TempleDaitoku-ji
Jinko-in Temple
Genko-an Temple
Josho-ji Temple
Kamigamo Shrine Ota Shrine
Entsu-ji Temple Grand PrinceHotel Kyoto
Renge-ji Temple
Hounen-in Temple
Anraku-ji, and Reikan-ji
Higashiyama Jisho-ji(Ginkaku-ji)
Kamogaw
a Park
Nakaragi Path
Shimogam
o Nishi Dori
Tetsugaku-no-michi (Philosopher's Path)
Eizan Dentetsu Line
Keih
an O
utou
Lin
e
Subw
ay K
aras
uma
Line
Randen Railways Kitano Line
Kyoto Concert Hall
FalafelGarden
Kyoto University of Art & Design
Kamogawa River
Kam
ogawa R
iver
Taka
no R
iver
Nis
hi O
ji D
ori S
tree
t
Hor
ikaw
a D
ori S
tree
t
Senbon Dori Street
Shir
akaw
a D
ori S
tree
t
Kita Oji Dori Street
Imamiya Dori Street
Kitayama Dori Street
Hig
ashi
Oji
Dor
i Str
eet
Hotel Avanshell Kyoto
Kyoto Brighton
Hotel
Stay SAKURAKyoto Nishijin
GuesthouseKirinYaImadegawa Dori Street
Kitayama Dori Street
Kyotoshiyakusho-mae
SanjoHigashiyama
Sanj
o
Kar
asum
a O
ike
Kawaramachi
Gio
n-Sh
ijo
Karasuma
Shijo
Shoenji Temple
Yasaka Shrine
DaishogunShrine
Rokkakudo Temple
Nishiki-tenmanguShrine
Pontocho Park
Kyoto DaijinguShrine
Yoboji TempleKyotoHigh School
Honnoji Temple
Kyoto ModernArt Museum
Kanji Museum
Hotel Sunline
Minamiza Theater
Gion Kaikan
Gion Corner
Hana Hotel
Kyoto CityTourism Association Visitor Information
Kyoto Hotel OkuraHearton Hotel
Shimadai Gallery
Hotel Sugicho
Hiragiya
Smart Coffee
Comme des Garcons
Cafe Kocsi
Inoda Coffee
Kyoto InternationalManga Musuem
The Museum of KyotoNakagyo
Post Office
HotelGimmond
Nishiki Market
KyonoyadoKaginei
Frank's Chop Shop
Junkudo
Ninja Kyoto
Super Hotel
Owls ForestKyoto
Kawaramachi OPA
H&M
MaruiKyoto
TakashimayaDepartmentStore
KyotoBAL
Hotel Ponto Tosa-Inari Shrine(Misaki-jinja)
Zara
McDonald’s
Daimaru Kyoto
TokyuHandsCocon
Karasuma
VOU Art Gallery
Eggs ‘n Things
KarasumaHotel
KyotoMuse
HotelMontereyKyoto
Koiyama
Kyoto Art Center
Ippudo Nishikikouji
McDonald’s
Tozai Line
Kei
han
Mai
n Li
ne
Hankyu Kyoto Line
TatsumiBridge
Shinmonso
PoliceBox
Jam Hostel
Han
amik
oji-
dori
Shijo-dori
Sanjo-dori
Shirakawa river
Pon
toch
o
Kiy
amac
hi-d
ori
Loft Kyoto
Starbucks
Qu'il Fait Bon
OgawaCoffee
Kitsune Kyoto
PontochoKaburenjoTheater
HUB
UrBANGUILD
Royal ParkHotel
MovixKyoto Game Panic Seiganji
Temple
HozoTemple
Sugi DrugShinkyogoku
Papa Jon's Cafe Rokkaku
Kyoto Municipal Gender Equality Center Misayama
Park
Kam
ogaw
a R
iver
A
A
1
2
1
2
B
B
C
C
D
D
A
A
1
2
1
2
B
B
C
C
D
D
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com54
Maps & Info
Yamamoto-dori
Meriken park
KITANO-CHO
NANKIN-MACHI
Hanak
uma
Minatom
otom
achi
Nis
hi-m
otom
achi
SHINKO-CHO
Boeki center
Sannom
iya
SannomiyaSannomiya
Sanno
miya
JR San
nom
iyaJR Motomachi sta.
Motomachi
Tor Road Pearl Stre
et
Kobe Mosque
Migration Museum
Kobe Halal Food
Yamate kansen
1F
Hun
terz
aka
Kita
noza
kaFu
doza
ka
Shie
i Yam
ate
subw
ay li
ne
SOGO Dept.5F Port liner
Kobe kosokutetsudo
Hanshin line
JR To
kaido
Main
Line
Subway Kaigan line
Route 2
Flower road
Sanchika und.
7F
1F
7F
5F
5F
OS CinemasMint Kobe
4F
MitsuiSumitomoBank
MunicipalMuseum
Kobe CityHall
IsogamiPark
HigashiyuenchiPark
Kobe Luminarie
Aoyama
Raja IndianRestaurant
MinatoBank
SannomiyaCine Phoenix
Cine Libre Kobe
Marui
DaimaruDept.
Kobe Doll Museum
Hanakuma Park
Kobe IkutaJunior HighSchool
Palmore Hosp.
KitanosakaHosp.
Kitanoseiryu Shrine
KitanoMuseum
KobeElementarySchool
Shinko High School
Hotel La SuiteKobe Harborland
Hotel Okura Kobe
Kobe Minato Onsen Ren
Jumbo Ferry Terminal
KIITOCafe Fish!
Kobe Maritime Museum
Kobe Meriken Park Oriental
Kobe Cruise Luminous Kobe 2
Kobe Harborland umie
OS Cinema Harborland
umieMOSAIC
Arthur Murray
Hyogo-kenPrefectural Hall
Ikuta PoliceStation
KobeWomensJuniorCollege
Bistrot Cafe De Paris
Ikuta jinja
Hotel Monterey
the b kobe
Hotel Monte Hermana Kobe Amalie
Kobe Plaza Hotel
CandeoHotel Kobe
Tokyu REI Hotel
OrientalHotel
Hotel Tor Road
Kobe Grocers
Tokyu Hands
Troopcafe
Varit
VillageVangard
NHK
Kobe MeisterGarden
Mickey’sClub
DonQuijote
ChickenGeorge
Midnight
SorakuPark
SuwayamaPark
SanPlaza
CenterPlaza EastCenter
PlazaWest
Junkudo
Tower Records
Sannomiya
Hanadokeimae st.
Kyukyoryuchi
Daimarumae
Sansei Hosp.
Junkudo
Kinokuniya
Kobe KokusaiKaikan
Kobe Kokusai Shochiku
HSBC
KRAC
Sun CityThe Harbour Tavern
IzntTokyu REI Hotel
APA Hotel
Holiday Inn Express
Daiwa Roynet Hotel
Hotel SunrouteSopra
Hotel Piena Kobe
3F
Ali’s Kitchen
Kobe YWCA
2FThe Rock
2FGuild
Kobe BAL
4F
CULMENI3F
St. Michael’s International School
Oriental Dental Clinic
7FKobe Legal Partners
KO
BE
Sann
omiy
a A
A
1
2
3
4
5
1
2
3
4
5
B
B
C
C
D
D
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 55
Maps & InfoSee Kansaifinder.com for more
Kintetsu lineNara Sta.
Kasuga-taisha
Wakamiya Shrine
Kinryu Shrine
Kii Shrine
Mizuya Shrine
Musashino
Matsunoya
Mt. Wakakusa
Hitokotonushi Shrine
Tsubomiwa Shrine
Yuga Shrine
Hotel Tamar
Ruin of Yakemon (Chumon)the gate of Todaiji
Nara Women’sUniversity
SarusawaPond
AraPond
Himuro Shrine
Karakuni Shrine(Tengu Shrine)
Tamukeyama Hachimangu
Todaiji Hokkedo (Sangatsudo)
Todaiji Nigatsudo
GuesthouseNara Backpackers
Nara Prefectural Museum Isuien Neiraku
Museum
Nara Prefectural Office
“Tou-kon-do”
Hall of Kofuku-ji“Chu-kon-do”
Kofuku-jiMain Hall
Nan’endo
Hoku’endo
Tourist Info Center
Kozen-in
Meishou Kyu-Daijoin Teien
Five Storied Pagoda
The Fifty-Two Steps Kikusuiro
Roku-en
Former Residnece of Naoya Shiga (novelist)
Kuuki Cake Shop
Zutou Pyramid
Nara KasuganoInt’l Forum
Int’l ForumIRAKA Annex
Enso Bairin Tei
Ukimido Pavilion
Yoshiki-en
Shosoin Main Warehouse
Chisoku-In
Ryu-shou-InEast Treasures Warehouse
West Treasures Warehouse
Imperial Household AgencyShosoin Office
Tengaimongate of Todaiji
Ruin of Saidaimon the gate of Todaiji
Nara NationalMuseum
Nara National MuseumNew Wings
Saho R
iver
Todai-ji
Kagami-Ike Pond
Nara Hotel
Aoba Chaya
Hotel Wellness Asukaji
Edosan Inn
Shikitei
Oak Hostel Nara
Hotel PagodaYoshidaya
NARA PARK
NAKASUJI-CHO
SHUKUIN-CHO
NOBORIOJI-CHO
GANRININ-CHO
IKENO-CHO
YURUGI-CHO
OSHIAGE-CHO
HIGASHISASABOKO-CHO
NISHISASABOKO-CHO
SUIMON-CHO
Yume-Kaze PlazaShops & Cafes
Tourist Info Center(luggage storage & delivery service)
Gango-jiGokuraku-bo
Jurin-in Temple
Yagyu Kaido Trail
NandaimonGate of Todaiji
Kantoku Temple
Fukuu-in
LAMP BAR
LBK Craft (2F)
Todaiji Museum
Mont-bell Nara Pickle Shop
Keinawa Expressway
Nara Sta.
JR Nara Sta.
Heijo Sta.
Yamato-Saidaiji Sta.
Kujo Sta.
Takanohara Sta.
Yamada Sta.
Narayama Sta.
Kizu Sta.Nishi-Kizu Sta.
KYOTO
NARA
Kizu River
Nara-Okuyama Driveway
Mausoleums
Enjo-ji Temple
Heijō Palace remains
Ruin of Mausoleum
Asahi-kannonKubikiri Jizo
Jigoku-dani Sekkutsu-butsu
Touge Chaya
Yuhi-kannon
Mt. Yoshino
Ofuji’s Well
Ama-no-IshitateShrine
CENTRAL NARA
YAGYU AREA
Yagyu Kaido Trail
Housou Jizo
Iris garden
Jubei’s cedar
Bus Stop
Masakizaka Kendo & Zen Dojyo
Yasaka Shrine
Ruin of The House of Yagyu
Houtoku-ji Temple
YAGYU-CHO
YAGYU AREA
Nakamura 6 Jizos
Ima-gawa Stream
The main house of Yagyu
NA
RA
Central
NA
RA
Overview
A
A
1
2
3
1
2
3
B
B
C
C
D
D
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com56
Maps & InfoW
EST
Jap
an
A E
A E
1
2
3
4
5
B
B
C
C
D
D
WAKAYAMATOKUSHIMA
KAGAWA
EHIME KOCHI
HYOGO
OKAYAMA
HIROSHIMA
YAMAGUCHI
TOTTORI
SHIMANE KYOTO
SHIGA
NARAOSAKA MIE
FUKUI
GIFU
AICHI
Maibara
Shin Osaka
Nagoya
Gifu Hashima
Mikawa AnjoKyoto
Shin Kobe
Himeji
OkayamaShin Kurashiki
Fukuyama
Shin Onomichi
MiharaHigashi Hiroshima
Hiroshima
Shin Iwakuni
Tokuyama
Shin Yamaguchi
Aioi
Nishi Akashi
Himeji-jo Castle
Hiroshima
Tottori
KyotoOtsu
Uji
Tsuruga
Fukui
To N
igat
a &
Hok
kaid
o
Maizuru
Tamba
Sasayama
Nara
Ise
Hikone-jo Castle
Oumihachiman Nagoya
AwajiIsland
ShodoIsland
LakeBiwa
Mt. Koya
Mt. ObakoMt. Shakagatake
Mt. Rokko
Arima
Sumoto
Odaigahara
Nachikatsuura
Kumano Kodo Trail
Ninja Village
Hot Springs
Ski Spots
Beaches
Shingu
Hongu
Kushimoto
Naruto
Tokushima
Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools)
Takamatsu
Nachi Falls
Wakayama
Kansai InternationalAirport
Osaka
Sakai
Hashimoto
Kobe
Awaji
Akashi Ohashi
Naruto Ohashi
Seto Ohashi
Fushimi Inari Kinkaku-ji
Osaka-jo CastleToudai-ji Temple
Mikata-goko Five LakesCycling Course
Dinosaur Museum
Ise Grand Shrine
Toba Aquarium
Suzuka Circuit
Itsukushima-jinja Shrine
NaoshimaArt Island
Angel Road
Tottori Sand Dunes
Tokaido Shinkansen
Sanyo Shinkansen
Mt. Hiei
Mt. HyonosenMt. Daisen
Kochi
Matsuyama
Kurashiki
Okayama
Onomichi
Fukuyama
Yamaguchi
Imabari
Tsu
Gujo
Katsuyama
ObamaTakahama
Shirahama
TanabeMt. Nachi
KumanohonguShrine
Kumano
Yoshino
Iga
Koga
Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail
Ferries
Bridges
Enryaku-ji Temple
Kinosaki
Shionoha
Ako
Yonago
IzumoIzumo-taisha Shrine
Korakuen Garden
HyogoHyogo
KyotoKyoto TOKYOTOKYO
NaraNara
MieMie
ShigaShiga
WakayamaWakayama
OsakaOsaka
KANSAIKANSAI
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2019 | kansaiscene.com 57
Maps & InfoSee Kansaifinder.com for more
WAKAYAMATOKUSHIMA
KAGAWA
EHIME KOCHI
HYOGO
OKAYAMA
HIROSHIMA
YAMAGUCHI
TOTTORI
SHIMANE KYOTO
SHIGA
NARAOSAKA MIE
FUKUI
GIFU
AICHI
Maibara
Shin Osaka
Nagoya
Gifu Hashima
Mikawa AnjoKyoto
Shin Kobe
Himeji
OkayamaShin Kurashiki
Fukuyama
Shin Onomichi
MiharaHigashi Hiroshima
Hiroshima
Shin Iwakuni
Tokuyama
Shin Yamaguchi
Aioi
Nishi Akashi
Himeji-jo Castle
Hiroshima
Tottori
KyotoOtsu
Uji
Tsuruga
Fukui
To N
igat
a &
Hok
kaid
o
Maizuru
Tamba
Sasayama
Nara
Ise
Hikone-jo Castle
Oumihachiman Nagoya
AwajiIsland
ShodoIsland
LakeBiwa
Mt. Koya
Mt. ObakoMt. Shakagatake
Mt. Rokko
Arima
Sumoto
Odaigahara
Nachikatsuura
Kumano Kodo Trail
Ninja Village
Hot Springs
Ski Spots
Beaches
Shingu
Hongu
Kushimoto
Naruto
Tokushima
Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools)
Takamatsu
Nachi Falls
Wakayama
Kansai InternationalAirport
Osaka
Sakai
Hashimoto
Kobe
Awaji
Akashi Ohashi
Naruto Ohashi
Seto Ohashi
Fushimi Inari Kinkaku-ji
Osaka-jo CastleToudai-ji Temple
Mikata-goko Five LakesCycling Course
Dinosaur Museum
Ise Grand Shrine
Toba Aquarium
Suzuka Circuit
Itsukushima-jinja Shrine
NaoshimaArt Island
Angel Road
Tottori Sand Dunes
Tokaido Shinkansen
Sanyo Shinkansen
Mt. Hiei
Mt. HyonosenMt. Daisen
Kochi
Matsuyama
Kurashiki
Okayama
Onomichi
Fukuyama
Yamaguchi
Imabari
Tsu
Gujo
Katsuyama
ObamaTakahama
Shirahama
TanabeMt. Nachi
KumanohonguShrine
Kumano
Yoshino
Iga
Koga
Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail
Ferries
Bridges
Enryaku-ji Temple
Kinosaki
Shionoha
Ako
Yonago
IzumoIzumo-taisha Shrine
Korakuen Garden
HyogoHyogo
KyotoKyoto TOKYOTOKYO
NaraNara
MieMie
ShigaShiga
WakayamaWakayama
OsakaOsaka
KANSAIKANSAI
F
F
1
2
3
4
5
G
G
H
H
I
I