authentic victorian fashion patterns: a complete ladyâ€™s wardrobe

CopyrightCopyright©1999byDoverPublications,Inc.Allrightsreserved.

BibliographicalNoteAuthenticVictorianFashionPatterns:ACompleteLady’sWardrobe,firstpublishedbyDoverPublications,Inc.,in1999,isaselectionofpatternsfromthefollowingissuesoftheVoiceofFashion:Vol.V,No.18,Fall1890;Vol.V,No.19,Winter1890—91;andVol.V,No.20,Spring1891—allpublishedbyGoldsberry,Doran&Nelson,Chicago,Illinois.

Vol.VII,No.28,Spring,1893;VolVIIINo.29,Summer1893;Vol.VIII,No.32,Spring1894;Vol.IX,No.36,Spring1895;andVol.X,No.39,Winter1896—allpublishedbyGoldsberry&Doran,Chicago,Illinois.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-inPublicationData

Harris,Kristina.

AuthenticVictorianfashionpatterns:acompletelady’swardrobe/KristinaHarris.

p.cm.

SelectedpatternsfomvariousissuesoftheVoiceoffashionpublishedinthe1890s.

9780486132822

1.Dressmaking—Patterns.2.Costumes—UnitedStates—History—19thcentury.I.Title.

TT520.H2781999

646.4’7821—dc21

99-045684

ManufacturedintheUnitedStatesbyCourierCorporation40721707www.doverpublications.com

http://www.doverpublications.com

TableofContents

TitlePageCopyrightPageINTRODUCTIONGENERALDIRECTIONSDOVERBOOKSONFASHION

INTRODUCTION

“Thesocietywomanmusthaveoneortwovelvetdresseswhichcannotcostlessthan$500each,”authorandsocialreformerJamesMcCabereportedinthelate19thcentury.“Shemustpossessthousandsofdollars’worthoflaces....Walkingdressescostfrom$50to$300;balldressesarefrequentlyimportedfromParisatacostoffrom$500to$1,000....Thentherearetravelingdressesinblacksilk,inpongee,velour,inpique,whichrangeinpricefrom$75to$175.ThenthereareeveningrobesinSwissmuslin,robesinlinenforthegardenandcroquetplaying,dressesforhorseracesandforyachtraces...dressesforbreakfastandfordinner,dressesforreceptionsandforparties....”Noneofthegarmentscouldbeready-made,andallcamefromafineAmericandressmaker,ifnotaEuropeancouturier.

Buttheaverage,middle-classAmericanwomancouldrevelinnosuchluxury.Whenevershecould,shepinchedherpenniesbymakingherownunderwear.Thisnotonlysavedherfromhavingtopayadressmakerforthetask,italsoprotectedherfrominferior,ready-madeunderclothes.Shemighteventrytosewsomeofherownclothing—butwiththechildren’sclothestosew,plusamyriadofotherpressinghouseholdduties,sheusuallyleftthemakingofherwardrobetoadressmaker.

MostAmericanwomenbroughtfashionplates(fromoneofthemanymiddle-classfashionmagazinesavailablebythe1890s)toherlocaldressmaker;thedressmakercustomizedachosenoutfitaccordingtoherskillsandhercustomer’sdesires.Shecouldtheneitherdraftherownpattern,usethesewingpatternherclientpurchasedthroughafashionmagazine,orconsultadressmaker’sjournallikeTheVoiceofFashion,whichprovidedscaledpatternsthatcouldeitherbecopiedexactly,oradjustedtothecustomer’swants.Iftherewasnodressmakerintown,orifaladycouldnotaffordone,hernextbestsourcewasalocalseamstress—ahousewifewhotookinsewingparttime.

Formanywomen,onenewdressaseasonwasallthatcouldbeafforded;somewomenfeltfortunatetobeabletohaveonenewdressayear.Itwasfabric,notlabor,thatwasusuallythemostexpensivefactorincreatinganewdress.In

1890,TheAmericanWomannotedthatwhilesilkswerestillthefashionablefabrics,theywould“notcomeintotoogeneralusebecauseoftheirhighprice—theaveragebeing$7.50ayard,andfromthisupwardindefinitely....”Eventhestaunchlymiddle-classSears,RoebuckandCompanycatalogfeaturedasateendescribedas“anearapproachtothesilkgoodsinappearance”thatwasstill20¢ayard.Thismayseemaffordable,butwhenoneconsidersthatanaverage1890sdresscouldrequirefouryardsfortheskirt(and,ifithadlargesleeves,anotherfourtosixyards,plusadditionalyardagefortherestofthebodice),it’seasytoseehowthefabricforasinglebasichousedresscouldrunupwardsof$2to$3.

Ofcourse,fabricwasjustonepartoftheexpense.Facings,linings,interlinings,andboningwereallnecessaryaswell.AccordingtoTheAmericanWoman,highlydecorativebuttonswerenotonlyusedasfasteningsonsomedresses,butwerealso“thefavoredtrimming...andoftencomeashighas$50forasetofsixbuttons.”

Finally,laborhadtobeconsidered.Forabusyhousewife(stillusingsadirons,ahand-crankedwashingmachine,agasorwoodenstove,andotherarchaichousekeepingdevicesusedprevioustotheadventofelectricity),itwasusuallyworthwhiletohiresomeoneelsetodotheactualsewing.Still,itwasacostnottobetakenlightly.Onemagazineexpressedgreatworryoverthenewestfashionof“befrillingandbefurbelowing,”hopingthatitwould“notkeeponincreasing;thelaborandconsequentexpenseofthedressmakingmustnaturallyincreaseatthesamerate.”TheVoiceofFashionitselfnotedthatwhile“thereisagreatappearanceofsimplicityinthemakingupofspringdresses...theactualcostofthesemoderndressesissomethingbeyondwhathadbeeneventhoughtofhitherto...andissometimes...asmallfortune.”In1891,HannahDitzler,amiddle-classIllinoian,wrotethatherseamstresschargedher$6inlaboraloneforaplainwoolensuit.

Aready-madedressfromoneofthenewmailordercatalogscouldcosthalfofwhatadressmaker-orseamstress-madedresswould.Itwouldnot,however,fitthefigurelikeasecondskin,whichwasanecessityinVictorianfashions;therefore,evenalessexpensiveready-madedresshadtobealteredforfit.Becauseoftheseconsiderations,thejobofmanydressmakersandseamstresseswasoftentore-makeoldergarments(forwhichpatternsstillcameinhandy).

Still,eventhoughamoderatedressmaker-madedressranabout$10(whichwasabouttheaveragemiddle-classman’sweeklysalary),thewomanofthe1890srequiredmorethanjustafewgarments.Victoriandressingwas,afterall,allaboutappearingappropriateduringeverysituation—andVictoriansocietyhadfairlystrictrulesaboutjustwhatwasappropriate.

hadfairlystrictrulesaboutjustwhatwasappropriate.

Beginningthemomentshewokeupinthemorning,everyVictorianladyrequirednotjustanightgown,butalsoawrapper.Wrappers(orteagownsastheyweresometimescalled)werewornintheboudoir,tobreakfast,andduringprivateleisurehours.Afterbreakfasting,theproperAmericanwomanthenchangedintoamorningdress,whichvariedfromanyothertypeofdressprimarilyinitssimplicityindesign.Thedress’hemcouldbeshort,butoftentouchedthefloorinfrontandatthesides,withatrainnolongerthansixinchesintheback.

Awalkingdresswasrequiredforwalkingintotownorshopping;thisusuallyfeaturedmoretrimmingthanamorningdress,andalwayshada“shortskirt.”Inthe1890s,thismeanteitherinsteplength(twoinchesfromthefloor)orshortroundorclearinglength(oneinchfromthefloor).Duringtheday,shemightalsorequireavisitingdress—aslightlymoreelaboratedressina“round”length(justtouchingtheflooratfront,sides,andback).Ahousedress,whichwasusuallymadeofwashablematerialandtrimming,waswornathome,and,dependinguponhowpracticalitwas,couldbeeitherinsteplengthorfeatureaslighttrain.

Inaddition,adinnerdress(touchingthefloorallaround,andusuallyfeaturingatrainofuptoteninches),andatleastoneversionofitsmoresplendidsister,theeveningdress,wasalsorequired.Thentherewereridinghabitsforladyequestrians,tennisdressesforthetypicallyactiveturn-of-the-centurywoman,bathingsuits,bicyclingandgymsuits,etcetera.Apropermiddle-classwoman’swardrobeofdressranupwardsof$80—thoughagoodnumberofwomencould,anddid,makedowithless.

ButthiswasonlyapartoftheVictorianwoman’swardrobeexpense;shestillhadtobesuppliedwithundergarmentsandaccessories.These,accordingtomiddle-classfashionmagazinesoftheera,includedatleastahalfdozenchemises,adozenpairsofdrawers,ninepetticoats,onetofiveflannelpetticoats,ninecamisoles,adozenpairsofcottonstockings,threepairssilkstockings,twodozenhandkerchiefs,abustlepad,nightcaps,garters,lacecollars,andglovesfordayandeveningwear.Inaddition,onemagazineadvised,“youcannotdowithoutlessthanthreeorfourpairsofcorsets;”thesealonecouldeasilycost$6.

Thentherewereshoestobehad(atanaveragecostof$1.25apair),purses(aboutanother$1.00),millinery(mosthatsrangedfrom$1.99to$3.99each),atleastoneparasol(aplainonecostingabout$1.50),plusbelts,hairdecorations,andahostofothersmalldetailsthatmadealadyofthe1890swell-dressed.

Thisisthesecondcollectionofpatternsfromthedressmaker’sjournalTheVoiceofFashionthatDoverPublicationshasoffered.Besidesfeaturingmorefabulousdressesandstreetcostumes,italsoincludesrarepatternsandgarments,likeatennisdressandridinghabit.Inaddition,twoeveninggownsareoffered,plusararepatternforanEmpiredress.Thisstyle,harkeningbacktothehigh-waistedfashionsofthelate17thandearly19thcenturies,wastheonlyfashionablealternativetothebell-shapedstylesthatprevailedthroughmostofthe1890s.(Itseffectwasprofound;bythe’teens,high-waisteddresseswerethenorm.)

Alsoincludedisanevenmorerarepatternforahousedresswithabra-likebodicedecoration;thisfashionappearedanddisappearedwithinthesameyear.Twonightgownsareincluded,aswell,asthethreedifferentpatternsfordrawers.Thoughwetendtothinkofdrawersaslookingessentiallythesamethroughoutthe19thcentury,thesepatternsprovethatimportantchangesincutdidoccur.

Aboveall,noticethatmanyofthesepatterns,whiletheymightbelooselydubbeda“house”or“street”dress,wereusefulforavarietyofpurposes.Witheasy-to-applychangesintrimming,neckline,sleeve,orskirt,anywalkingdresscouldhaveservedasavisitingorhousedress.Eveninggownswerethemostelaboratelytrimmed,but,ingeneral,thelesslace,beading,puffing,andotherdecorativetrimfeatured,themorecasualtheoutfitwas.Inaddition,when“misses’”dresspatternsareincludedinthiscollection,itisbecauseasimplelengtheningoftheskirtcanmakethedressequallysuitableforayoungwoman.

HowtoUsethePatternsThepatternsgiveninthisbookarescaled.Thereareanumberofdifferentwaystoenlargethem.Foreitherofthetwomethodsdescribedhere,youwillneedapencil,aruler,transparenttape,andarollofwrappingorshelfpaper.

Ifallthepatternsforaparticulargarmentpiece(suchasthebodice)areinthesamescale,thepatternscanbeenlargedbythegridmethod.Aneasywaytocheckwhethertheyareinthesamescaleistomeasurethelinerunningalongtheright-handsideofthepattern.Dividethismeasurementintothenumbergivenatthebottomoftheline.Ifthepatternsareinthesamescale,yourresultsshouldberoughlythesameforeachpiece.Ifthepatternpiecesaretomorethanonescaleorsize,besuretoreadtheinstructionsfor“TheGradingMethod.”

AsamatterofhistoricalinterestwehaveincludedtheoriginaldraftinginstructionsfortheLadies’Costumeonpages78—85.

TheGridMethodBeginwithamajorbodymeasurementsuchasthewaist.Next,addanappropriateamountofwearingease(formostwaistlinesofthisperiod,about½”isappropriate).Now,inordertofigureyourscale,comparethistotalmeasurementwiththecorrespondingmeasurementonthescaledpattern;besuretotakeseamallowancesandpatternpiecesthatrepresent½orlessofthegarmentintoconsideration.If,forexample,theintendedwearerhasa23½”waist,plus½”forwearingease,andthescaledpattern’swaistmeasurementis2”,theproperscaletousewouldbe1”/12”.Inotherwords,everyinchonthescaledpatternwouldequal12”onthefull-sizepattern.

Next,drawagridontopofthescaledpattern(inthisexample,a1”grid),andthendrawagridontheshelfpaper(inthisexample,a12”grid).

Now,transferthelinesofthescaledpatternontotheshelfpaper,squarebysquare.Whenevernecessary,tapetheshelfpapertogethertomakeitlargeenoughforafull-sizepattern.

TheGradingMethodWhengarmentsillustratedshowpatternpiecesgiveninmorethanonescale,youshouldusethegradingmethod.Noticethateachpatternincludessetsofnumbersrunningalongallpatternlines.Thenumbersrunningalongtheright-handedgeofthepatternindicatelengthmeasurements;theothernumbersindicatethewidth.Drawthepatternlinesontoyourpaper,followingallmeasurementscarefully.Itmaybehelpfultodrawa1”gridontothepaperbeforetransferringpatternlinesontoit,butitisnotnecessary.Wherecurvesareshown,youmaydrawthemfreehandorwiththeaidofaFrenchcurve(availableatdressmakingstores).

Onceyouhavecarefullydrawnouteachpatternpieceaccordingtothemeasurementsgiven,youhavecreateda“standardsize”sloperforthegarment.This,bymodernstandards,isquitesmallandwillneedtobegradedtofitthemodernfigure.Ifyouareunfamiliarwiththepracticeofgradingpatterns,followtheinstructionsgivenbeloworconsultadressmakingbookatyourlocallibrary.

ToAdjustWidth:Changeswillalmostcertainlyneedtobemadeinthewidthofyourpattern.Todeterminehowmuchchangeisnecessary,subtractyouractualmeasurements(includingwearingeaseandseamallowances)fromthecorrespondingpatternmeasurements.Forexample,ifyourwaistmeasurementis

25½”andthepatternmeasurementis19”,youneedtoenlargeyourpatternby6½”inthewaistarea.Now,dividetheamountyoumustenlargethepattern(inourexample6½”)bythenumberofbodicepatternpieces(forourexample,say4).Thiswilltellyouhowmuchtoenlargeeachpatternpiece(inourexample,1⅝”).SlashthepatternpiecesasillustratedinFig.1,andspreadinatriangularfashion.Placeapieceofpaperbehindtheslashedsectionandtapeitintoplace.

Totakeinthepattern,makeatuckinthepatternasshowninFig.1andredrawthecuttingandseamlines.

ToAdjustLength:Ifyourgarmentneedsadjustmentinlength,eitherfoldit(iftoolong)orslashandspreadit(iftooshort)(Fig.2).

Fig.1.Toadjustwidth.

Fig.2.Toadjustlength.

Remember:•Inmostcases,allowancesforclosures(hooksandeyes,buttons,plackets)andfacingsarenotincludedonthepatternandmustbeaddedbeforecuttingoutthepatterninfabric.

•Carefullylabelallpatternpiecesandtransferanyconstructionmarkingstothefull-sizepattern.

•Ifacorsetandotherundergarmentsaretobeworn,thebodymeasurementsshouldbetakenintheseundergarments.

•Itmaybenecessarytousedifferentscalesfordifferentpartsofeachgarmentevenifthepatternpiecesforeachpartareinthesamescale.Forinstance,thebodicemayrequirealargerscalethantheskirt,especiallyifacorsetwillnotbewornbeneaththefinishedgarment.

•Thelengthofmostskirtpatternsisnotproportional.Regulatethelengthofskirtsbypersonallengthmeasurements.

•Alwaysremembertoaddwearingeasetoyourbodymeasurementsbeforefiguringthescaleonwhichtoenlargeyourpattern.Ifyoumakeyourpatterntoyourexactmeasurements,theresultinggarmentwillbeskintight,andwillprobablyripwitheverymovement.Easemustbeaddedtomakeclothesfitcomfortably.Thetypical1890swaistlinehadabout½”to1”ease,andthe

comfortably.Thetypical1890swaistlinehadabout½”to1”ease,andtheaveragesnug-fittingbustlinehadabout2½”ofease.

•Becausethereisno“standard”body,testingandperfectingthepatterninmuslinbeforecuttingoutthefashionfabricisadvised.

GENERALDIRECTIONS

TOTAKEMEASURES.Greatcareshouldbetakeningettingmeasures.(Seeillustrationbelow.)

TAKEBUSTMEASUREwiththetapemeasurestraightaroundthelargestpartofthebust,asshownbelow,highupunderthearms;takeasnug,closemeasureneithertootightnortooloose.

TAKEMEASUREAROUNDTHEWAISTastightasthedressistobeworn.

TAKELENGTHOFWAISTfromthelargejointwhereneckandbodyjoin,downtothewaist.Caremustbetakentogetthismeasure.

SLEEVEMEASUREistakenfromthecenterofbacktowristjoint,witharmraisedandelbowbent.

INCUTTINGagarmentlookcarefullyatthedraftsbeingcopied;usenumbersandcurvesasshownindraft.

THEARROWSareusedfortwopurposes—onetoshowwhichwaytoturnthecurve,theotherthenumberofpointstobeconnectedwiththecurve.

THECURVEshouldalwaysbeturnedwiththelargestpartinthedirectioninwhichthearrowpoints.

Whenthearrowisplacedbetweentwolinesitshowsthatonlytwopointsaretobeconnected.

Whenthearrowisplaceduponacrosslineitshowsthatthreepointsmustbeconnectedwiththecurve,thatthepointbythearrowisthemiddleone,andthepointsnearestoneachsidemustbeconnectedwiththecurveatthesametimewithlargerpartofthecurveturnedinthedirectionthearrowpoints.

TheletterAincornerofdraftisthestartingpointinmakingdraft.

TAKINGMEASUREMENTS.

DIRECTIONSFORBASTING.FIRST:—Smooth,eventracingisverynecessary.Placethepatternsmoothon

liningcrosswise.Traceeachlinecarefully.Cutouttheliningsameaspattern.Placetheliningstraightonthegoods,thenap,ifany,runningdown.Pintheliningatthewaistline.Fullthelining(from¼to½inch)eachsideofthewaistline,from1½inchesbelowthewaistlineto2½inchesabove,thegreatestfullnesscomingatthewaistline;thisshortensthelining,butwhenboneditwillbestretchedtoplace.Leavetheliningeasyeachway,fromtopofdartstoshoulders,andone-fourthofaninchfullatcenterofshoulderline.Neverbackstitchinbastingordrawthethreadtight.

Injoiningthedifferentpartstogether,caremustbetaken,assmooth,evenbastingisnecessary.Passtheneedleexactlythroughthetracedseamlinesonbothsidesoftheseam,asmanygarmentsareruinedbycarelessbasting.

Injoiningthebackandside-back,holdtheside-backtoyou,thusyouwillbasteoneupandtheotherdown.Itisagoodideatopinthesepiecesbeforebasting.Iftheshoulderbladesareprominent,holdthebackpiecealittlefullwheretheshoulderbladesstriketowithin1½inchesofarms-eye.Inbastingtheshoulders,holdthebacktoyou.Basteevenlyforoneinch,thenstretchthefrontshouldertomatchtheback,forthebackisalwayscutlonger.

shouldertomatchtheback,forthebackisalwayscutlonger.

MISSES’WRAPPER.Summer1893

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentiregarment,whichconsistsofupperandunderFronts,upperandunderBacks,side-backandthreesleeveportions.ThiswrapperissuitableforaMissoraLady.Cutthe

threesleeveportions.ThiswrapperissuitableforaMissoraLady.Cuttheupperportionsoutattheneck.(Seediagrams.)Gatherandsewtotheunderfrontandback.IfdesirabletheFrontmaybeshirredattheWaistline,sameastheBack.GathertheupperSleeveandsewtothelining.

RegulatethelengthoftheSkirtbythetape-measure.

LADIES’TEAGOWN.Spring1893UsescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentiregarment,

whichconsistsofthreefrontportions,BackandSide-back,SleeveandCuff.

Theshirringismadeoflaceorsoftsilk.Jointhedifferentportionsasindicatedonthecuts.Anystyleoftrimmingmaybeused.

Regulatethelengthbythetape-measure.

LADIES’DRAWERS.Fall1890

LADIES’DRAWERS.

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.

Draftthesameasanyothergarment.

Makethebandthelengthandwidthdesired.

Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

LADIES’DRAWERS.Spring1893

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeWaistmeasuretodrafttheentiregarment,whichconsistsofone-halfofthedrawersandband.

Makeallowancefortucks.Regulatebythetapemeasure.

LADIES’DRAWERS.Spring1895

Selectthescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.

Itisintwopieces:One-halfofthedrawersandone-haltoftheband.Thesecanbeclosedorleftopen.

Gathertheextrafullnessatthetopandsewtotheband.

Makeallallowancesfortucks.

Regulatethelengthbythetapeline.

LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Fall1890

LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentire

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirePolonaise,whichconsistsof8pieces—UpperandUnderRightFront,LeftFront,Back,Side-Back,CollarandtwoSleevePortions.

Shirrorlaypleatsattheshoulderoftheupperrightfront.Laythepleatsatthesidesaccordingtothenotches,makeitcomeevenwiththeskirtatthebottom.Theleftfrontmaybetrimmedwithbraid,velvetorribbon.Laythepleatsinthebackandside-backaccordingtothenotches,formingtwoboxpleatsintheback.Jointheunderrightfrontattheunder-armdartandshoulderseam.

Thesleevesmaybetrimmedwithbandsofvelvet,ribbonsorbraiding,orwiththeruchingasthefigurerepresents.

Theskirtisgivenonpage10;draftbythescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure,isinthreepieces—Front,BackandSide-Gore.


YOUNGMISSES’STREETCOSTUME.Fall1890

YOUNGMISSES’STREETCOSTUME.

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsofUpperandUnderFrontsandBacks,SideBackandtwoSleeveportions

Draftthisthesameasallothers.

Laypleatsinthefrontandbackasrepresented.

Gatherthesleevesatthetoptofitthearms-eye.

Drafttheskirtbythescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.

Trimtosuit.


STREETCOSTUME.Fall1890

STREETCOSTUME.

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsofUpperandUnderFronts,Back,SideBack,UnderArm-gore,Collar,andSleeve.

Bastethesideformontothebackasfardownastheseamlineismarked,andfromtheredowntothebottom,lapthesideformovertheback;finishwithsmallbuttons,setclosetogether,oneachsideoftheback.Facetheupperfrontasfarbackasthedottedline,andturnbackforarollingcollar,extendingtothebottomofthegarmentTakeupthedart,cutoutandpresstheseamopen,Jointotheunderarm-gore;alsojointheunderfrontorvesttotheunderarm-gore.

Thediagramsforthedraperyaregivenonpage15.Draftbythescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.Itconsistsoftwopieces:FrontandBack.Laythebackintwodoubleboxpleats.Laythepleatsinthefrontaccordingtothenotches;makeitevenwiththeskirt.Cutthefoundationskirtfromanyoftheplainskirtpatterns.Regulatetosuit.

LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Winter1890-91


Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthebasque,whichconsistsoffront-back,side-backandunder-arm-gore.Braidthewaistdownthe

consistsoffront-back,side-backandunder-arm-gore.Braidthewaistdownthefrontandthesleevessameastheskirt.Thejacketisgivenonpage17.Draftbybustmeasure;itconsistsoffront-back,side-back,under-arm-gore,standingandmedicicollars,andtwosleeveportions.Sewthemedicicollaronthedottedline,closethefrontwithlargepatenthooks,makethegarmentaslongasdesirable.

Thedraperyisgivenonpage18.Draftwithscalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure;isintwopieces,frontandback;laythepleatsinthefrontaccordingtothenotches,gatherorpleattheback.Thediagramsforthefoundationskirtaregivenonpage19.Draftbywaistmeasure.Itconsistsoffront,backandside-gore.Regulatethelengthoftheentiregarmentbythetapemeasure.

LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Spring1891

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthejacket,whichconsistsoffrontandskirt,back,sideback,collar,pocketlapandtwosleeveportions.Draftthisthesameasallothergarments.Bastethefrontandsidebacktogether,takeupthedarts,thenbastetheskirton;connectthenotches.Bringthe

together,takeupthedarts,thenbastetheskirton;connectthenotches.Bringthefrontofthecollartothenotchinfront.Gatherorpleatthesleevesveryfullonthetop.Makethejackettomatchthesuitorofanysuitablematerial.

Thedraperyisdraftedbythewaistmeasure.Thediagramsaregivenonpages21and22.Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches.Facethebottomwithsilkoranysuitablematerial.Useanywaistgiveninthisissueoranyother.Thejacketmaybetrimmedtocorrespondwiththeskirt,thatistherollingcollar,sleevesandpocketlaps.

Regulatethelengthoftheentiregarmentwiththetapemeasure.

YOUNGMISSES’STREETCOSTUME.Spring1891

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftwaistandjacket—

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftwaistandjacket—thewaistconsistsofupperandunderfront,back,sideback,under-arm-goreandgirdle.Laypleatsontheupperfrontaccordingtothenotches,closewithhooksandeyesontheshoulderandunderthearms.Thejacketmaybeomittedifdesirable.

Theskirtanddraperyisdraftedbythewaistmeasure.Theskirtisinthreepieces—front,backbreadthandside-gore.Thedraperyisinonepiece.Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches.Makeaboxpleatoverthehipandtwointheback.Trimtosuit.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

LADIES’STREETCOSTUMESpring1893

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsoftwoFronts,Back,Collarandthreesleeveportions.TheBackisseamless.Besureandcutbutoneofeachfronts,asoneisfortherightsideandtheotherisfortheleft.Gathertheupperpartofthesleeveatthebottom,

andtheotherisfortheleft.Gathertheupperpartofthesleeveatthebottom,sewittotheundersleeve,gatheritthroughthecenteroronthedottedline;drawituptofittheundersleeve,thengatherthetop;alsogatherthetopoftheundersleeve.Thesleeveliningonpage28maybeusedinsteadfortheundersleeve,ifdesired,asitwillnotrequiresomuchmaterial.

TheSkirtisgivenonpages26and27.Draftbythewaistmeasure;itisinfourpieces—twoFronts,BackandSideGore.Jointheupperfronttototheback.Theunderfrontandside-goremaybemadeofacontrastingmaterial,withgoodresults.


UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheWaist,JacketandSleeves.Thewaistisinsixpieces,namely:Front,Back,Girdle,CollarandtwoSleeveportions.Gatherattheneckandwaist;cutthebackdouble.

TheJacketisgivenonpage30.Thebackiscutdouble,rounditinthecenter.Thisisveryprettymadeofblackvelvetwiththelargefullsleevepuffgivenonpage26,omittingtheshirringthroughthecenterifmadeofthevelvet.Trimitallaroundandupthebackwithfancytinselorgimp;trimaroundthearm’seyealso.Theeffectisverypretty.

Theskirtisgivenonpage31.Draftbythewaistmeasure.Thisisaonepieceskirt.Gatheritallallaround,puttingmostofthefulnessinthecenteroftheback.Trimthebottomtosuit.


UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireWaist,JacketandSleeves.

TheWaistconsistsofFront,Back,TopofSleeve,SleeveBand,PuffandCuff.Gatherthewaistbetweenthenotchesandsewtoabelt.Fastenontheleftsideinvisibly.

TheJacketiscutinonepiece.Thisgivesthepointedfrontwhichmayberoundedoffifpreferred,orthepointmaybecutshorter.Turnbackonthedottedlineforrevers.ThediagramsforJacket,CuffandPuffaregivenonPage34.

TheSkirtisgivenonPage33Draftbywaistmeasure,thisgivesthesixgoresandalsothefullness,somuchdesiredatpresent.Putthedifferentpartstogetheraccordingtothestars,gathertheextrafullnessinatthewaist.Regulatethelengthtosuit.

LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Summer1893

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustMeasuretodrafttheWaist,SleevesandCape.TheWaistconsistsoffront,back,side-back,twounderarmgores,twosleeveportionsandcollar.Thisissuitableforamediumform.Thebottommaybeshapedtosuitthewearer.TheCapeisinonepiece.Thediagramisgivenonpage37.Linewithsilk;trimwithvelvetsatinbands,orfolds.

onpage37.Linewithsilk;trimwithvelvetsatinbands,orfolds.

TheSkirtisdraftedbytheWaistMeasure.Itisinonepiece.Thisisaveryfullskirt,somecallittheflutedlampshade.Itlooksbesttrimmedwithflatbandsormillinerfolds,orscantruffles.Makeitclearthefloorallaround.Regulatethelengthbythetape-measure.

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustMeasuretodrafttheentireWaistandSleeves.

TheBlouseWaistconsistsofFront,Back,Sleeve,CuffandCollar.TucktheFront,hemthebottomandwearundertheSkirt.

Front,hemthebottomandwearundertheSkirt.

TheJacketisintwopieces,FrontandBack.Makeofvelvet,trimwithembroidery.

TheSkirtisdraftedbytheWaistMeasure;isinonepiece.Gatherallaround,bringingmostofthefullnessinthecenteroftheback.Trimtosuit,eitherwithvelvetorsatin.


UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustMeasuretodrafttheJacketandWaist.Thewaististheseamless,excepttheshoulderseams.Closeinfrontwithhooksandeyes.TheJacketisintwopieces—FrontandBack.Laythepleatsinfrontaccordingtothenotches;thebretelleextendsacrossthebackoftheneckanddownthefrontlinewithcontrastingsilk;gatheronthedottedline.

anddownthefrontlinewithcontrastingsilk;gatheronthedottedline.

TheSkirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure;isintwopieces,FrontandBackbreadth.ThisistheBellskirtwithabackbreadthsetintogivetherequiredfullness.Trimtorepresentadoubleskirt.Thesleeveisgatheredallaroundthetopandallowedtofalldownoverthearms.Tacktotheliningtokeepinplace.


UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsofUpperandUnder-Front,Back,Side-Back,jacketFrontandBack.CuttheUpper-Frontdoubleandfastenontheshoulderandunderthearms.Gathertheextrafullnessatthewaistandsewtoabelt.Thebackofthe

arms.Gathertheextrafullnessatthewaistandsewtoabelt.Thebackofthejacketiscutdoublebutroundedupfromthebottom.Thesleevesandskirtaregivenonpage44.Gatherthetopoftheballoonsleeveandbastetothelining.Gathertheextrafullnessontheupper-sideandbasteintheseams.TheSkirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure.Gatherthetop,finishthebottomwithadeepSpanishflounce.Makeanextraflounceunderneathwithwirygoodstomakeitflareout.Regulatetosuit.

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireBasque,whichconsistsofone-halfofWaistandBasqueSkirt.Thisisanovelty,butisveryprettywhenproperlymade.TheWaistgivestheseamlesseffectintheback,buthasonedartoneachsideandoneinthecenterofFront.TherightFrontmaybecutofffrom2½downto5¾.ClosedownthecenterofFrontwithhooksandeyes;laptheleftFrontovertherightandbutton.Whalebonetheliningunderthearmsandeachdart.

LinetheBasqueSkirtwithsilkandsewtothewaist,orfinishwithabandandhooktheWaisttoit;letitremainopendownthefront.Itmaybecutlongerorshorter,justtosuit.

TheSleevesaregivenonpage46,threepieces,upperandunderSleeveandSleevepuff.Sewthepuffonthedottedline.

Sleevepuff.Sewthepuffonthedottedline.

TheSkirtisgivenonpage47.DraftbytheWaistmeasure.Isinthreepieces,Front,BackandSide-gore.Putthepartstogetherastheyaremarked.Anystyleoftrimmingmaybeusedfortheentiregarment.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireJacketandWaist.TheJacketconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,Under-arm-gore,RollingCollarandthreeSleeveportions.Thisgivesthefullskirteffect.Gathertheuppersleeveallaroundwithverylargestitches.Jointhenotchontoptotheshoulderseam.

TheWaistconsistsofFrontandBackYoke,andgatheredportionforfrontandback.Closeontheshoulderandunder-the-arm.Finishthebottomwithasoft

andback.Closeontheshoulderandunder-the-arm.Finishthebottomwithasoftbeltfastenedunderthearm.Useanysleevesgiven.

TheSkirtisdraftedbytheWaistmeasure;isinfourpieces,Front,Back,andtwoSide-gores;onemaybeomittedifdesirable.


MISSES’STREETCOSTUME.Spring1894

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsofFrontandBackofYoke,andgatheredportionsforFrontandBack,Collar,RuffleandtwoSleeveportions.Gatherthelowerportionforthe

Back,Collar,RuffleandtwoSleeveportions.Gatherthelowerportionforthewaistandsewtotheyoke.Therufflemaybelinedwithsilkandsewedinthesameseam.Closedownthefrontinvisibly.Gatherthesleevestofitthearmseye.

TheSkirtisgivenonpage53.Isinthreepieces,Front,BackandSide-gore.Gatherthetoptofitthewaist.Trimtosuit.



UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireJacketandWaist.TheJacketconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,Under-arm-gore,RollingCollarandtwoSleeveportions.Thisgivesthefullskirt.Makeaslongasdesirable.Maybemadeofanysuitablematerial;facetheFrontandturnback.

desirable.Maybemadeofanysuitablematerial;facetheFrontandturnback.ThefullWaistingivenonpage55,itconsistsofFrontandBack.Gatherthetoptofittheneck.Itmaybemadeupoveralining.Gatherthebottomandfinishwithasoftbelt.

TheSkirtisgivenonpage56.DraftbytheWaistmeasure.Isintwopieces,FrontandBack.GatherthecenterofBackfromthenotch.

AveryprettyfinishforthebottomofSkirtsismadebycuttingbiasvelvet1½incheswideandmakingaheavycordbytwistingcandlewickloosely,coveringitwiththevelvet.SewitonthebottomandfacetheundersideoftheSkirt.

RegulatethelengthoftheSkirtbythetapemsasure.

LADIES’STREETGOWNSpring1894

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsofupperandunderFronts,Back,Side-back,CollarandthreeSleeveportions.Cuttheliningforthefrontfromtheunder-frontonly.Maketheupper-frontofthedressmaterial.Closetheupper-frontontheleftsideattheshoulderandunderthearminvisibly.Cutthebackdouble,gathervery

attheshoulderandunderthearminvisibly.Cutthebackdouble,gatherverycoarselyorpleattheuppersleevebetweenthenotches.ThedraperyandskirtaredraftedbytheWaistmeasure.Thedraperyisintwopieces,FrontandBack.Laythreeupwardturning4pleatsinthefrontdrapery.Laythreebackwardturningpleatsintheback.Facethefrontedgewithsilkorvelvetandturnbackontheoutsidetoformarevere.Thesametrimmingmaytrimthefrontdrapery—Theeffectisverypleasing.TheskirtisaBellskirt,anyotherfullskirtmaybeusedifdesirable.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,Under-arm-gore,tworevereportions,vestfrontandthreesleeveportions.

Thisisashortpointedbasque;draftthesameasallothergarments.Therevereorlargecollarmaybemadeseparately;interlinewithcanvas,finishtheedgewithguimporjettrimming.Thebottomofthebasquemaybefinishedwithasoftrollofvelvetorsilkfinish,thebackwithabutterflybow.

Thesleevesmaybepleatedinvariousways,orgathered;oneoftheprettiestwaysistolaysidepleats,meetinginthecenteroratpointofshoulder.

Anotheristomakeaboxpleatontopwithdeepsidepleatsoneachside.Alwayslinethepuffpartwithcrinoline,tarletanorfibrechamois,thelatteristhemostdurableasthecoatsleevewillnotcrushit.

Theskirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure,itconsistsoffront,backbreadthandside-gore.Linethebackwithhairclothandmakeadoubleboxpleatdownthecenter.TheeffectisveryprettyandmoredurablethantheGodetpleats,oritmaybegatheredorpleatedindeepknifepleats,meetingatthecenter.


Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsoftwofronts,back,vestfront,waisttrimming,andthreesleeveportions.DraftsameasallothersCuttheFrenchbackdouble,takeupthedartsinthelargefront(whichmaybemadeoftheliningonly)closedownthecenterwithhooksandeyes.Thebackandsmallfrontmaybemadeofvelvet,alsothetrimmings.Laypleatstoformacascade.Thevestfrontisgivenonpage66.Makeofperforatedclothorvelvet.Laythesleevepuffinthreedoubleboxpleats;interlinewithTarletanorFibreChamois.Gatherthebottomandsewtothesleeveliningonthedottedlines.Draftthedraperyandskirtbythewaistmeasure.

Thedraperyorcascadeisgivenonpage66.Faceallaroundwiththesamematerialastheskirt.Laythepleatstoformacascade;jointothefrontseams.Theskirtisgivenonpage67.Isinthreepieces—front,backbreadths,andside-gore.Gatherorpleattheback.Facethebottomwithhaircloth13inchesdeep.Bindthebottomwithvelvet.Regulatethelengthwiththetapemeasure.

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsof2fronts,back,collar,andthreesleeveportions.

Cuttheunderfrontliningfromthediagramhavingonlyonedart.Closewithhooksandeyes.Cutaliningtotheupperfrontalso,andcloseontheleftshoulderandunderthearmwithhooksandeyes.Iftheladyforwhomthiswaistisbeingcutisslender,thedartsintheupperfrontmaybeomitted.Cutthe

isbeingcutisslender,thedartsintheupperfrontmaybeomitted.Cutthematerialonthebias,andbasteittotheunderfrontdownthecenter(veryfirmly)andstretchittofitthefigure.Itcanbeeasilydoneifthefigureisgood.Cutoffthesurplusgoodsatthebottomandunderthearmsafterithasbeenfirmlybastedallaround.Trimwithbraiding,sameasrepresented,oranyotherstyle.InterlinethesleevepuffwithTarletanorFibreChamois,andsewtothesleevelining.

Theskirtisgivenonpage70.Draftbythewaistmeasure.Itconsistsoffront,andGodetpleatfortheback.Theremaybetwo,threeorfourofthese,astheyareallcutalike;wehavegivenbutone.Interlinethebackthroughoutwithhaircloth.Thefrontmaybefaceduptothekneewiththesame.Staythepleatsunderneathwithelastic.Donotpressthem,however.

Trimthefrontwithlightanddarkcloth.Cutinstripspointedattheends,andfinishwithnailheads,oranyotherdecoration.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Winter1896


UsethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentireJacket,whichconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,Under-armGore,andfiveSleeveportions.

ThisJacketistightfittingintheBackandlooseinFront.Italsogivestherippleskirt,correspondingwiththepresentstyle.Ifitismadeoflightweightcloth,interlinethroughoutwithheavyfibrechamois,whichwillgivewarmthandafinishthatnoothermaterialwill.Theouterliningshouldbeoftaffetasilk,harmonizingincolor.TheMelonSleeveisgivenonPage73;thisisdraftedthesameasanyothergarment;italsoshouldbeinterlinedwithfibrechamois.Putthepartstogetheraccordingtothestarsandnumbers.Eachseamshouldbecordedwithacontrastingcolor.LayBoxPleatsatthetop,accordingtothenotchesandlittlestraightlines.ThisSleevemayalsobeusedforaDressSleeve.TheSkirtisgivenonPages74and75;draftbythescalecorrespondingwiththeWaist.Measureisinfourpieces,Front,BackandtwoSideGores;thisgivestherippleeffect.Ifitisnotthedesiredwidth,addonemoresidegore;ifthisisdone,makethetopofeachatriflesmaller.Facethebottomthedepthofteninches,withhaircloth.UsecottontaffetatolinetheSkirt.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

LADIES’MELONSLEEVE.


UsethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentireWaistandSleeves,whichconsistsofFront,BackandSide-back,CollarandthreeSleevePortions.Maybemadeofanymaterial.UseSkirtgivenonpages74and75.

75.

LADIES’COSTUME.Fall1890

Theobjectininsertingthisdraftinthequarterlymagazineistoaccommodatethoseofourpatronswhodonotfullyunderstandourmethodofdrafting.Inthefirstplace,weascertainthecorrectmeasures.

Itisimpossibletoobtainaperfect-fittinggarmentwithincorrectmeasurement.Thereforeweinsistthattoobtainthedesiredresultswemustbeaccurateintakingthemeasures.

First,takethebustmeasurewiththetape-linestraightaroundthelargestpartofthebust,highupunderthearms;takesnug,closemeasure,neithertootightnortooloose.

Takemeasurearoundthewaistastightasthedressistobeworn.Takelengthofwaistfromthelargejointwheretheneckandbodyjoindowntothewaist.Caremustbetakentogetthismeasure.Ifitisdifficult,asitoftenis,toascertainjustwheretolocatethewaistlineintheback,takeabeltorstringandplacearoundthewaist,verytight,aslowdownasthedresscanbeworn.

Sleevemeasureistakenfromthecenterofbacktowristjoint,witharmraisedandelbowbent.

Alwaysdraftthebackfirst,asourmeasuresaretakenfromtheback.

Alwaysdraftthebackfirst,asourmeasuresaretakenfromtheback.

Afterobtainingthebustmeasure,selectfromthepackageofscalesthecorrespondingscale,andplaceitonthesquare;fastensecurelywiththescrew,thensquarethepaperbydrawingapencil-markacrossthetopanddownthesideofthesquare.Thenproceedtodrawoutthepattern.Firstmakepointsonthepapercorrespondingwithallthefiguresontheoutsideofthebase-lineuntilyoucometo14¼,whichisthewaistline.Nowmakeadotwiththepencilat14¼.Takethetape-lineandmeasurefromthepointyouhavemadeat¾downto14¼,orwaistline,andifitdoesnotcorrespondwiththetape-linemeasurement,raiseorlowerthepointanddrawthewaistlinefromthere.Takethescaleandmeasurethedifferencebetweenthedotmadeat14¼andthepointforthewaistline,andchangethewaistlineontheside,backandfrontthesameamount.Ifyouhaveraisedorloweredthewaistlineoneortwospaces,asthecasemaybe,changeallthefiguresbelowthewaistlinecorrespondingly.

Beveryaccurateingettingthecross-figures,assometimesaneighthofaspaceaddedtoortakenfrommakesitimpossibletoobtainatruecurve.Iftheeighthswerenotessentialtheywouldnothavebeenplacedthere.Rememberthis.Putthemdownjustastheyoccuronthedifferentdiagrams.Itisuselesstoexplainhowtolaythecurvetodraftoutthebasque,forthedifferentchangesaregiveninfullonthediagramsfortheback,side-back,frontandtwo-sleeves,andallothersaregotteninthesameway.Thearrow-headpointstowardthelargestpartofthecurve;therefore,ifyounoticewhichwaythearrowpoints,youwillatonceknowhowtolaythecurve.

Wenextdrafttheside-back.Squarethepaperaspreviouslyexplained.Makeapointatallthefiguresastheyoccuronthebase-lineuntilyoucometo10¼,orwaistline.Changethisthesameasontheback.Donotusethetapelinetomeasuretheside-backorfront,butchangethewaistlinesjustthesameamount,eitherupordown,asthecasemaybe.Ifyouhaveraisedorloweredthewaistlineoneortwospaces,raiseorlowerallthefiguresonthebase-linebelowthewaistlinethesameamountaswaistline.Putthefiguresdownonthecross-linejustastheyoccuronthediagram.Thentakethecurveanddrawoutthepattern.

Draftthefrontnext.Squarethepaperandproceedasbefore,makingapointforallthefiguresonthebase-lineuntilyoucometo16,orwaistline.Ifyouhaveraisedorloweredthewaistlineonthebackandside-back,alsochangethistocorrespond,andchangeallthefiguresbelowthewaistlinethesame.Putthefiguresdownjustastheyoccuronthecross-lines;thentakethecurveanddrawoutthepattern.

outthepattern.

Measurethewaistoftheentirebasquewiththetape-line,omittingallseams,dartsandhemifitdoesnotcorrespondwiththedesiredwaistmeasure.Addtoortakefromtheunder-armdartone-halftheamountrequired.Donotcutthedartout;basteonthelinesheregiven.Wherethedartsareverybias,cutthemopenthroughthecenter.Allseamsshouldbeslashedinatthewaistlinetopreventdrawing.Becarefultoconnectthewaistlines.Inbastingtheside-backandbacktogether,holdtheside-backtowardsyou.Putalltheextrafullnessovertheshoulderblades.Inbastingtheshoulderseams,stretchthefronttwoorthreeinchesfromtheneck.

Betterresultscanbeobtainedinfittingthewaistbynotbastingthehemdownthefrontbeforetryingiton.Neverputitonwrongsideout.Bastealltheseamsupandslashthematthewaistlines.Thenputitonthepersontobefitted.Pinthefrontstogetherjustasyouwouldwereittobesewedtogether,commencingatthewaistline,drawingitastightasthegarmentistobeworn,payingnoattentiontotheswellfrontonthepattern.

Thiswayyouwillobtainanaccurateshapeofthewaist,bustandneck.Beforetakingthepinsoutmarkwithpencilorchalk.Turndownhalfaninchfromthislineontherightsideforthebuttonholes.

Takemeasureforthesleevewiththearmraisedandelbowbent;measurefromcenterofbacktoknucklejoint.Deductwidthofbackpiece,lessoneinchforseams.Thisgivescorrectlengthofsleeve.

Thensquarethepaperaswehavepreviouslyexplained,makeamarkforallthefiguresoutsideofthebaseline,thenproceedtogetthefiguresonthecrosslines.

Takethetapelineandmeasuretheuppersleevefrom8onbackofsleevedownto4½atthebottom.Ifitisnottherequiredlength,changethetwolowerfiguresonthebaseline18½and20¼,eitherupordown,tocorrespondwithtapelinemeasurement.Ifwehavechangedittwoorthreespaces,changethelineattheelbowone-halfthedistance.

Drafttheunderpartofthesleevethesameway.Ifthefigureshavebeenchangedontheuppersleeve,changethelowerfiguresontheunderparttocorrespond.

TheDraperyandSkirtisdraftedbythescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.Thedraperyisintwopieces—Side-PanelandBack.Gatherthebackdrapery,interlinethepanel,andlayonepleatoverthehip.Makejustthesamelengthastheskirt.

TheSkirtconsistsofthreepieces—Front,BackandSide-Gore.Draftthisuponthegeneralplanofwork.Regulatethelengthwiththetapemeasure.

Thiscompletestheinstructiondraft,andalltheothersaredrafteduponthesameplan.Beaccurateinputtingdownthefiguresandfollowthearrowsclosely.

LADIES’PLAINSKIRT.

LADIES’COSTUME.

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsoftenpieces—UpperandUnderFronts,UpperandUnderBacks,Side-Back,Under-ArmGore,PleatedGirdle,PufffortheSleeves,andtwoSleevePortions.

Laypleatsatthebottomoftheupperbackandfrontaccordingtothenotches.

Laythepleatsandsewthegirdleintheunder-armseam.Closeinfrontwithalargebuckle.

Draftthesleevessameasanyothersleeves,buttomakeasrepresented:cutouttheuppersleevesasdiagramsshow,turnundereachsideandinsertthepleatedpuff;laythepleatstowardthecenterline,gatheratthetopandsewinthearmseye;trimthesleeveatthehandsameastheskirtorwithacuff.

Theskirtisgivenonpage88,isdraftedbythescalecorrespondingwithwaistmeasure,isinonepiece;bringmostofthefullnessintheback.


LADIES’COSTUME.Winter1890-91

LADIES’COSTUME.

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirepolonaise,whichconsistsoftwofronts,yoke,girdleandshirring,back,sidebackandsleeve.

Laythepleatsinthebackaccordingtothenotches;takeupthedartinthesideback.

Turndownthefrontontheinsidelineandsewtothefullfrontontherightside.Closethefrontontheleftsidewithhooksandeyes;gatherthesleevebetweenthenotches.Thefrontdraperyisgivenonpage91.Draftbythewaistmeasure.Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches;drapeupuntilitisevenatthebottomoftheskirt.

Useanyplainskirtpatternforthefoundationskirt.Trimtosuit.

LADIES’EMPIREGOWN.Spring1893

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodraftthewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsoftwofrontportionsandJacketFront,Back,Collarandfivesleeveportions.Thisgarmentisnotputtogethertheusualway—inthefirstplacecutthebackofthewaist,thenmeasuretheskirtfromthewaistdownaslongasdesired,draftoutthebackofskirt,laytwodoubleboxpleatsintheback,oneoneachside,asyouwillseeindiagramonpage94.Thenotchesindicatethe

oneoneachside,asyouwillseeindiagramonpage94.Thenotchesindicatethepleat,thestarsindicatehowdeepthepleatsare.Sewthistothebackofwaist,thencuttherightandleftfronts.Youwillseethefrontsareshorterwaisted.Ifyouhavechangedthelengthoftheskirtintheback,makethesamechangesinfront.Gatherthefrontoftheskirtandsewtothewaist,thencutthejacketfront,gatheritontheshouldersbetween5ontopbaselineand11½onfirstcrossline,drawuptofittheshoulder,thenjoinwithunderfrontsandbackinoneseam,alsojoinintheunderarmseam;finishthefrontwitharosetteofvelvetorornament.

TheSleevesaregivenonpage93.Cutthepuffsandcuffsofvelvet;cuttheliningfromthediagramsgiven.Drafttheskirtfromthewaistmeasure.

LADIES’COSTUME.Summer1893

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustMeasuretodrafttheWaistandSleeves,whichconsistsofFront,Back,twoSleeveportionsandSleevePuff.Thisisasurplicewaist.Itmaybegatheredontheshoulderinsteadofthefolds,ifpreferable.Gatherthebackbetweenthenotches,facethebottom,lapthefrontsacrosseachother.Theneckmaybefilledinwithlaceorremainopenforwarmweather.Shirrthetopofthesleeveasmanytimesasdesirable,andsewto

warmweather.Shirrthetopofthesleeveasmanytimesasdesirable,andsewtotheundersleeve;makeitlayflatonthetopandstandoutattheelbow.

TheSkirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure;isintwopieces—upperpartoftheskirtandflounceTheseflouncesaresewedtotheskirtwithoutanyfullness;itbeingcutroundinggivesthesquirmedfullnessatthebottom.Veryoftensleevesaremadeinthesameway,withthreeorfourflaringrufflesatthetopandline,withacontrastingsilk.Theeffectisverypretty.Maketheskirtclearthefloorallaround.Regulatelengthbythetape-measure.

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireWaistandCape,whichconsistsofFrontandBackfortheWaist.Shirrasmanytimesasdesiredattheneck,alsogatherattheWaistline.TheUnderWaistisintwopieces,FrontandBack;theCapeisinonepiece,cutdouble.Linewithsilk;trimtheedgewithlace.UseanySleevegiveninthisissue.TheSkirtisgivenonpage98.DraftbytheWaistmeasure;isintwopieces,FrontandBack;thisgivesthe

98.DraftbytheWaistmeasure;isintwopieces,FrontandBack;thisgivesthebelleffect.Takeupthedarts,cutopenandpress;thismaybegatheredattheWaist,insteadofthedartsTrimtheSkirttosuit.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

LADIES’COSTUME.Spring1894

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentireWaist,whichconsistsofFrontandBack,twoSleeveportions,PuffandRuffleforthetopofsleeve.ThisisablouseWaist,maybewornundertheskirtorover,

forthetopofsleeve.ThisisablouseWaist,maybewornundertheskirtorover,justtosuit.

TheFrontisgatheredattheshouldertofittheback,gatherthebackattheneck.Gatherorpleatatthewaistbetweenthenotches,finishwithasoftbelt,closeinvisibly.GatherthePuffandsewtothedottedlineonthesleeveportions.LinetheRufflewithsilkandsewinwiththesleeve.TheseamlessWaistisgivenforthelining.

TheSkirtisgivenonpage101.DraftbytheWaistmeasure.Isinthreepieces,Front,BackandSide-gore.GathertheBackatthetop.Trimthebottomwithfoldsoranytrimmingdesirable.


LADIES’COSTUMESpring1895

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsofone-halfofwaist,rollingcollar,vest,andstandingcollar,sleeveandskirttrimming.

Thiswaisthasnoseamsunderthearmnordowntheback.Takeupthedartsinfront,closeonthesidewithbuttonsandbuttonholes,takeuptheshoulderseams,cuttherollingcollardouble,interlinewithcanvas,andfacewithsilk;sewtowaist,trimwithvelvet.

Getthediagramsforthesleevesonpage104.Draftbythebustmeasure,laythepleatstoformatripleboxpleat,finishthesleevetrimmingallaroundandplaceuponthisboxpleat,tackitinplace.Usethediagramsfortheskirt,onpages62and63.Draftbythewaistmeasure,interlinethroughoutwithgrasscloth,faceupthebottomwithvelvet,placetheskirttrimmingoneachsideasrepresented.

Thevestismadeoflinen.Usethisdiagramforthelining,layasidepleatdownthecenteroftheoutside.

Finishwithastandingcollar.

LADIES’HOUSEDRESS.Spring1895

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist.Thisisaseamlesswaist,andsurelyisanovelty.Therearenovisibleseamswhatever.Thebackextendsovertothefront,andformsayoke.Tackthefrontshoulderonthedottedlineonshoulder(seediagram).Connectthestarsandrings.Takeupthedartoverthebust;cutopenandpresscarefully;theyokewillcoverit.Closedownthefrontinvisiblywithhooksandeyes.Whenthepatternis

coverit.Closedownthefrontinvisiblywithhooksandeyes.Whenthepatternisdraftedout,iftoosmall,changeinfrontat2¼,one-halfthedesiredamount.Donotattempttousethisforastoutform.Thebottommaybefinishedwithasoftfoldofvelvet,thesametobeusedtofinishbottomofyoke,andcrushcollar.Bonetheliningsameasanyotherwaist.

TheUmbrellaskirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure,isinonepiece.Takealltheextrafullnesstotheback.Interlinewithgrasscloth,andfacethebottomwithvelvet.


YONGLADIES’HOUSEDRESS.Spring1895

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsoftwofrontyokesandtwobackyokes,andshirringforfrontandback.Thefullportionsmaybemadeofvelvetorsilk.Sewtotheplainyoke,gatherthebottomandsewtoabelt.

Thepointedyokeisembroidered,ormaybemadeofvelvet,edgedwithjet,andthefullportionsmadeofsamematerialasthedress.Finishtheneckwithastockcollar;alsofinishthewaistwithasofttwistofvelvet,andbowattheside.

Usethesleevesonpages65and66,oranyothermoredesirablepattern.

Usetheskirtgivenonpage106.Draftbythewaistmeasure.Bringallthefullnessintheback.Trimwithvelvetbands,oranyotherstyle.


LADIES’COSTUME.Spring1895

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,jacketandsleeves.Thewaistconsistsoftwofronts,twobacksandthreesleeveportions.Gathertheupperportionatneckandwaistline.Thisgivestheblouseeffectinfront,andmaybemadeofsilkoranythinmaterial.Thejacketisseamless,excepttheshoulderseams.Draftsameasanyothergarment.Linethroughoutwithsilk.Therollingcollarisgivenonpage110.Itgivesthesailorbackandstraightfront.Keepinplacewithatwistofvelvetandrosettesateachside.Usethecrushcollaronpage106.Interlinethepuffforthesleevewithtarletanorcross-barcanvasandgatherorpleat,andsewtothetightsleeveondottedline.

Thebellskirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure,isinonepiece.Interlinewithgrasscloth,andfacewithvelvet.

Trimwithgraduatedlengthsofvelvetandbows.


LADIES’COSTUME.Winter1896

LADIES’COSTUME.

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsoftwoFronts,Back,VestFront,RollingSailorCollar,NeckBand,andsmallRollingCollar,CuffandthreeSleeveportions.

TheBackmaybemadewithorwithoutaseamdownthecenter.CuttheliningfromtheFronthavingtwoDarts.Closewithhooksandeyes.CuttheVest,or

fromtheFronthavingtwoDarts.Closewithhooksandeyes.CuttheVest,orcenterFront,double,sewtotheliningontherightSide,andfastenontheleftSidewithhooksandeyes.SewthelargeRollingCollartotheupperFrontandtacktotheliningontherightSideandcloseinvisiblywithhooksandeyes.InterlinetheRollingCollarwithTailors’Canvas.TheFrenchSleevemaybemade,asitnowshows,withpleatscomingjustbelowtheelbow,finishedwithafancycuff,orthefigures18¾and19½maybelowerednearlytothebottom,whichwouldgivetheBishopSleeveeffect.Ineithercase,thetopoftheSleeveshouldbelinedwithfibrechamoisorlightweightcanvas,orseagrass,thelatterbeingthefavorite.

TheSkirtisgivenonpage114.Draftbythewaistmeasure.Lineitwithcottontaffetaortheoldfashionedpapercambric,trimtheentiregarmentwithvelvetandbraidorjet.


LADIES’UMBRELLASKIRT.

LADIES’COSTUME.

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasure.ItconsistsoftwoFronts,twoBacks,twoYokepiecesandthreeSleeveportions.CuttheliningonlyfromthesmallestFrontandBack,gathertheupperportionsattheNeckandWaistandsewtothelining;closedownthecenterinvisibly.MaketheYokeofsamematerialastheSleeves;trimwithpassementerieorbraid;closeontheleftshoulderwithhooksandloops;gathertheSleevePuffandsewtotheSleeve;

shoulderwithhooksandloops;gathertheSleevePuffandsewtotheSleeve;interlineaswehavealreadyexplained.UsetheSkirtonPage114.

STOUTLADIES’PRINCESS.Winter1896

STOUTLADIES’PRINCESS.

(Thishasbeeninsertedbyspecialrequest.)

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentiregarment,whichconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,twoUnder-armgores,CollarandtwoSleeveportions.

Draftsameasallothergarments;laypleatsintheback;jointheunder-armgoresaccordingtothestars.

Theruffleovertheshouldermaybecarriedtoasharppointintheback,sameasthefront,oritmaybeomittedjusttosuit.Closeinfrontwithhooksandeyes.Anystyleoftrimmingmaybeused.


LADIES’TIGHT-FITTINGJACKET.Winter1890-91

LADIES’HUNTER’SJACKET.Spring1895

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsoffront,back,andcollar.

Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches,twoboxpleatsinfrontandtwointheback.Itmaybemadeofsilkorcloth.Hemthebottom.

Thesleevesaregivenonpages65and66.Draftbythebustmeasure.BesureandinterlinethepuffwithTarletanorcross-barredcanvas.Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches,formingthreedouble-boxpleats.Sewuptheseamandgatherthebottom,andsewtothelining.Finishwithasoftrollofvelvetandbows.

Drafttheskirtfromthediagramgivenonpage67.Usethescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.Facethebottomwithheavycanvas,andbinditwithvelvet.Wehaveomittedsomeoftheskirtsandsleevesforwantofroom.


TENNISCOSTUME.Fall1890

TENNISCOSTUME.

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthejacketandwaist.ThejacketconsistsofBack,SideBack,UnderArm-gore,andtwoSleeve

waist.ThejacketconsistsofBack,SideBack,UnderArm-gore,andtwoSleeveportions.

Facethefrontbackasfarasthediagonalline;turnthisbacktoformarollingcollar.Finishtheedgewithagoldorsilvercord.Theblouseorshirtwaistconsistsoffront,back,collar,cuff,sleevefacingandsleeve.Tuckthefrontasrepresented,closewithbuttons.Facethebottomandinsertacord.Theunderwaistisgivenonpage126;Isinthreepieces:Front,BackandSideBack.

Drafttheskirtbythewaistmeasure;laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches.Presscarefullyandsewtotheunderwaist.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

RIDINGHABIT.Spring1891

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireBasque,whichconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,Under-armGore,CollarandtwoSleeveportions.DraftandmakeupthesameasallotherBasques.

TheSkirtisgivenonpages128and129.Draftbythescalecorresponding

TheSkirtisgivenonpages128and129.DraftbythescalecorrespondingwiththeWaistmeasure.Takeupthedartsasrepresented.Putthepartstogetheraccordingtothestarsandnotches.Finishthebottomwithawidehem.Whenoffthehorse,loopuptheskirttowalkinglengthwithacordattachedtothewaist-band.


YOUNGLADIES’EVENINGCOSTUME.Spring1891

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsotupperandunderfrontandback,sidebackandunder-arm-gore.Turndowntheupperfrontandbackandshirrontheseconddottedline.Laythepleatsatthebottomaccordingtothenotches.Sewtheunderbackandsidebacktogetherbeforebastingtheupperbackon.

Thesleevesaresimplyapieceoflaceorsamematerialasthewaistgatheredveryfullonthetop,caughtupwithabowofribbonsorrozettetocorrespondwiththeskirt.Thediagramfortheskirtisshownonpage132.Usethescale

withtheskirt.Thediagramfortheskirtisshownonpage132.Usethescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.Itconsistsofbackandfront.Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches,makingtheskirtthedesiredlengthinfront.Thebackissimplysidepleatsturningtowardsthecenteroftheback.Thismaybemadeentirelyseparatefromtheskirtproperifpreferred.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

LADIES’EVENINGGOWN.Spring1894

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsofFront,Back,Side-backandUnder-arm-gore.

Thisisashortpointedbasque,cutlow-necked.Theneckmaybecutsquare,pointed,orremainrounding.Finishwithalacebertha.Gatherthelaceinthearmholetoformshortsleeves.Closeinfrontinvisibly.

TheSkirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure.Isinfourpieces,Front,Backand

TheSkirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure.Isinfourpieces,Front,BackandtwoSide-gores,puttogtherasmarked.Trimtosuit.

Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure,

LADIES’SACKNIGHTDRESS.Winter1890-91

Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentiregarment,whichconsistsoffourpieces:Front,back,sleeveandcuff.

Thisisdraftedoutthesameasallothergarments.Gatherthesleeveatthebottomandsewtothecuff,andgatherbetweenthenotchesatthetopandsewinthearm’seys.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

thearm’seys.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.

LADIES’NIGHTGOWN.Spring1893

Ladies’HalfFittingNightGown.

UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentiregarmentwhichconsistsofFront,Back,twoYokeportions,Collar,SleeveandCuff.

TrimthelowerpartoftheYokewithembroidery,alsobringitovertheshoulder,sewitinwiththesleeve.Theeffectisverypretty.TheYokemaybemadeoftucksandinsertion.TrimtheCollarwithembroideryalso.


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