Australia

Andrew Bain, Samantha Forge, Anthony Ham, Trent Holden, Hugh McNaughtan, Charles Rawlings-Way, Andy Symington, Brett Atkinson, Fleur Bainger,

Cristian Bonetto, Paul Harding, Rachael Hocking, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski, Tatyana Leonov, Sofia Levin, Virginia Maxwell, Kate Morgan, Tasmin Waby, Steve Waters

Sydney &New South Wales

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Melbourne &Victoria

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Queenslandp272

Darwin &the Northern

Territoryp797

Perth &Western Australia

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South Australiap713

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Australia. . . . .6Australia Map . . . . . . . . . . .8Australia’s Top 25 . . . . . . .10Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 22What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 24If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Month by Month . . . . . . . 29Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Family Travel . . . . . . . . . . .37Your Reef Trip . . . . . . . . . 40Your Outback Trip . . . . . . .47Australia Outdoors . . . . . 54Wildlife Watching . . . . . . 59Regions at a Glance . . . . 62

SYDNEY & NEW SOUTH WALES . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Sydney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Royal National Park . . . . . 136Blue Mountains . . . . . . . . 138The Central Coast . . . . . . 146Hunter Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 147Newcastle . . . . . . . . . . . 153Mid-North Coast . . . . . . 158Port Stephens . . . . . . . . . . 159Myall Lakes National Park . . . . . . . . . . 161Port Macquarie . . . . . . . . . 162South West Rocks . . . . . . 167Bellingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Coffs Harbour . . . . . . . . . . 170Byron Bay & the Far North Coast . . . 174Yamba & Angourie . . . . . . 174Ballina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Byron Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Brunswick Heads . . . . . . . 187North Coast Hinterland . . . . . . . . . . . 188Bangalow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Lismore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Nimbin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190New England . . . . . . . . . 193Tamworth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Armidale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Tenterfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Northern NSW . . . . . . . . 197Moree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Lightning Ridge . . . . . . . . 199Central NSW . . . . . . . . . 200Bathurst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Cowra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203Dubbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205Mudgee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206Outback NSW . . . . . . . . 208Bourke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209Broken Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210

Mungo National Park . . . . 214South Coast NSW . . . . . 217Wollongong . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Berry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Kangaroo Valley . . . . . . . . 222Nowra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Jervis Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Ulladulla & Mollymook . . .227Batemans Bay . . . . . . . . . 229Narooma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Tilba Tilba & Central Tilba . . . . . . . . . . . 233Sapphire Coast . . . . . . . . . 234Southern Highlands . . . 239Mittagong & Bowral . . . . . 239Snowy Mountains . . . . . 241Cooma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Kosciuszko National Park . . . . . . . . . . 243Riverina . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Gundagai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Albury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Wagga Wagga . . . . . . . . . . 247Griffith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249

CANBERRA & THE ACT . . . . . . . . . . 252Canberra . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Around Canberra . . . . . . . 271

QUEENSLAND . . . . . 272Brisbane . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273North Stradbroke Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305Moreton Island . . . . . . . . . 307Toowoomba . . . . . . . . . . . .308Granite Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Gold Coast . . . . . . . . . . . 312Surfers Paradise . . . . . . . . 314Main Beach & The Spit . . . . . . . . . . . . . .316Broadbeach & Mermaid Beach . . . . . . 318Burleigh Heads . . . . . . . . . 319

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Contents

Gold Coast Hinterland . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Noosa & The Sunshine Coast . . . 324Noosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326Bribie Island . . . . . . . . . . . 331Caloundra . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332Mooloolaba & Maroochydore . . . . . . . . . . 334Coolum & Peregian Beach . . . . . . . . . 337Cooloola Coast . . . . . . . . . 338Fraser Coast . . . . . . . . . 341Hervey Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 342Rainbow Beach . . . . . . . . . 347Gympie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .349Childers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .349Bundaberg . . . . . . . . . . . . .350Fraser Island . . . . . . . . . . . 352Capricorn Coast & the Southern Reef Islands . . . . . . . . . . 358Agnes Water & Town of 1770 . . . . . . . . . 358Southern Reef Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362Rockhampton . . . . . . . . . . 363Yeppoon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .366Great Keppel Island . . . . . 367Whitsunday Coast . . . . 369Mackay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369Airlie Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . 373The Whitsundays . . . . . . . 377Eungella National Park . . . . . . . . . . 382Townsville to Cairns . . . 383Townsville . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383Magnetic Island . . . . . . . . 389Ingham & Around . . . . . . . 391Tully . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393Mission Beach . . . . . . . . .394Innisfail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .398Cairns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399Atherton Tablelands . . . 421Kuranda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422

Atherton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424Malanda & Around . . . . . . 425Yungaburra . . . . . . . . . . . .426Crater Lakes National Park . . . . . . . . . .426Port Douglas to Cooktown . . . . . . . . . 427Port Douglas . . . . . . . . . . . 427Mossman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432The Daintree & Cape Tribulation . . . . . . . . 432Cooktown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 437Cape York Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . 439Thursday Island & Horn Island . . . . . . . . . .445Gulf Savannah. . . . . . . . 446Undara Volcanic National Park . . . . . . . . . . 447Croydon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447Normanton . . . . . . . . . . . .448Karumba & Karumba Point . . . . . . . . .448Outback Queensland . . 451Cloncurry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452Mt Isa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452Mt Isa to Charleville . . . . . 455Barcaldine . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458Charleville . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459Channel Country . . . . . . .460

MELBOURNE & VICTORIA . . . . . . . . . 462Melbourne . . . . . . . . . . . 463The Dandenongs . . . . . . . 516Yarra Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 518Marysville & Lake Mountain . . . . . . . . . 522Daylesford & Hepburn Springs . . . . . . . 524Mornington Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 527Phillip Island . . . . . . . . . . . 532Great Ocean Road . . . . 536Geelong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 536

Bellarine Peninsula . . . . . 543Torquay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .546Anglesea . . . . . . . . . . . . . .548Aireys Inlet & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549Lorne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551Apollo Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554Cape Otway . . . . . . . . . . . . 556Port Campbell . . . . . . . . . . 557Port Campbell National Park . . . . . . . . . . 559Warrnambool . . . . . . . . . . 561Port Fairy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .564Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567Goldfields & Grampians . . . . . . . . . 570Ballarat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 571Bendigo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575Kyneton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .580Castlemaine . . . . . . . . . . . 581The Grampians . . . . . . . . . 583Mt Arapiles State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588Gippsland & Wilsons Promontory . . . . . . . . . . 588Wilsons Promontory National Park . . . . . . . . . . 589Lakes District . . . . . . . . . . 592East Gippsland & the Wilderness Coast . . . 596Victorian High Country . . . . . . . . . 601Mansfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . .604Mt Buller . . . . . . . . . . . . . .605Beechworth . . . . . . . . . . . .606Rutherglen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 610Bright . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 613Mt Beauty & the Kiewa Valley . . . . . . . . 615Falls Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616Mt Hotham & Dinner Plain . . . . . . . . . . . . 617The Murray . . . . . . . . . . 619Mildura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619Echuca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 624

TASMANIA . . . . . . . .628Hobart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 634Richmond & Around . . . .649Mt Field National Park & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . .650The Southeast . . . . . . . 652Bruny Island . . . . . . . . . . . 652Cygnet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 655Geeveston & Around . . . . 656Dover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 657Tasman Peninsula & Port Arthur . . . . . . . . 658Dunalley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 659Port Arthur & Tasman National Park . . . . . . . . . . 661The Midlands . . . . . . . . . 663Ross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .664The East Coast . . . . . . . 665Maria Island National Park . . . . . . . . . . 665Swansea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .668Coles Bay & Freycinet National Park . . . . . . . . . .669Bicheno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 671Binalong Bay & the Bay of Fires . . . . . . 673Derby & Around . . . . . . . . 674Flinders Island . . . . . . . . . 676Launceston . . . . . . . . . . 677Tamar Valley . . . . . . . . . . .684Longford & Around . . . . .688Evandale . . . . . . . . . . . . . .689Ben Lomond National Park . . . . . . . . . .689Devonport & the Northwest . . . . . . 690Devonport . . . . . . . . . . . . .690Mole Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . 695Penguin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 697Burnie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .698Stanley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .700King Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . 701The Tarkine Wilderness . . . . . . . . . . . . . 702Corinna & the Pieman River . . . . . . . 703

Cradle Country & The West . . . . . . . . . . 703Cradle Mountain- Lake St Clair National Park . . . . . . . . . . 704Queenstown . . . . . . . . . . . 707Strahan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 708The Southwest . . . . . . . 710Lake Pedder & Strathgordon . . . . . . . . . 711Maydena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 712

ADELAIDE & SOUTH AUSTRALIA . . . . . . . .713Adelaide . . . . . . . . . . . . . 716Hahndorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 736Stirling Area . . . . . . . . . . . 738Gumeracha, Birdwood & Lobethal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 739Fleurieu Peninsula . . . . 739McLaren Vale . . . . . . . . . . 740Willunga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 742Gulf St Vincent Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 743Victor Harbor . . . . . . . . . . 745Port Elliot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 746Goolwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 747Kangaroo Island . . . . . . 748Barossa Valley . . . . . . . . 757Clare Valley . . . . . . . . . . 762

Murray River . . . . . . . . . 765Renmark & Paringa . . . . . 769Limestone Coast . . . . . .771Robe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 771Meningie & Coorong National Park . . . . . . . . . . 773Mount Gambier . . . . . . . . 774Penola & the Coonawarra Wine Region . . . . . . . . . . . 776Yorke Peninsula . . . . . . 777Eyre Peninsula . . . . . . . 780Port Augusta . . . . . . . . . . . 781Port Lincoln . . . . . . . . . . . . 782Coffin Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 784Streaky Bay & Around . . . 785Ceduna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 786Flinders Ranges . . . . . . 787Outback SA . . . . . . . . . . 792Woomera & Around . . . . . 793Coober Pedy . . . . . . . . . . . 794

DARWIN & THE NORTHERN TERRITORY . . . . . . . 797Darwin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800Batchelor . . . . . . . . . . . . . .820Litchfield National Park . . . . . . . . . . 821Pine Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . . 823

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Kakadu National Park . . . . . . . . 824Arnhem Land . . . . . . . . . 834Katherine . . . . . . . . . . . . 837Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park . . . . . . . . . .840Mataranka . . . . . . . . . . . . .844Barkly Tableland & Gulf Country . . . . . . . 845Carpentaria & Tablelands Highways . . . .846Borroloola . . . . . . . . . . . . . 847Central NT . . . . . . . . . . . 848Tennant Creek . . . . . . . . . .848Devil’s Marbles & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . .850Tanami Road . . . . . . . . . . . 851Alice Springs . . . . . . . . . 852MacDonnell Ranges . . . 862NT’s Far South . . . . . . . 867Old South Road . . . . . . . . 867Lasseter Highway . . . . . . . 870Kings Canyon & Watarrka National Park . . . . . . . . 870Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park . . . . . . . . 872

PERTH & WESTERN AUSTRALIA . . . . . . . 881Perth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 884Rottnest Island . . . . . . . . . 913Swan Valley . . . . . . . . . . . .920Rockingham . . . . . . . . . . . 922Dwellingup . . . . . . . . . . . . . 923Mandurah . . . . . . . . . . . . . 924Perth Hills . . . . . . . . . . . . . 926Avon Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 927New Norcia . . . . . . . . . . . . 929Turquoise Coast . . . . . . . .930Margaret River Region . . . . . . . . . 933Bunbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 933

Dunsborough . . . . . . . . . . 937Yallingup . . . . . . . . . . . . . .940Margaret River . . . . . . . . .942Caves Road . . . . . . . . . . . . 945Southern Forests . . . . . 948Manjimup . . . . . . . . . . . . . .948Pemberton . . . . . . . . . . . . .949Southern WA . . . . . . . . . 951Walpole & Nornalup . . . . . 951Denmark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 953Albany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .956Porongurup National Park . . . . . . . . . .960Stirling Range National Park . . . . . . . . . . 961Esperance . . . . . . . . . . . . .962Batavia Coast . . . . . . . . 965Geraldton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 965Kalbarri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .969Shark Bay . . . . . . . . . . . 972Denham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 972Monkey Mia . . . . . . . . . . . . 974Gascoyne Coast . . . . . . 976Ningaloo Coast & the Pilbara . . . . . . . . . 978Coral Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 978Exmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .982Ningaloo Marine Park . . .986Karratha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .989Port Hedland . . . . . . . . . . . 991Karijini National Park . . . 993Broome & The Kimberley . . . . . . . . 995Broome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .995Dampier Peninsula . . . . .1004Derby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1006Gibb River Road . . . . . . .1008Great Northern Hwy . . . 1012Kununurra . . . . . . . . . . . . 1014Purnululu National Park & Bungle Bungle Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1016Outback WA . . . . . . . . . .1017Kalgoorlie-Boulder . . . . . 1017

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1022Aboriginal Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . 1036Environment . . . . . . . . 1041Food & Drink . . . . . . . . 1049Sport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1054

Deadly & Dangerous . . . . . . . . . . 1058Directory A–Z . . . . . . . 1060Transport . . . . . . . . . . . .1071

Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people should be aware that this book may

contain images of or refer-ences to deceased people .

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

SPECIAL FEATURESFamily Travel . . . . . . . . . . 37Your Reef Trip . . . . . . . . . 40Your Outback Trip . . . . . . 47Sydney’s Beaches . . . . . 93Where to Stay in Sydney . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Great Ocean Road . . . . 538

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Two short weeks to explore one of the largest countries on the planet will never be enough, but if you plan carefully and don’t mind flying between stops, you can get a taste for Australia’s greatest hits.

Fly into Sydney to explore one of the world’s most charismatic cities. Wander the sparkling waterfront, tour the Sydney Opera House and take a ferry out to Manly, all the while enjoying outstanding museums, cocktail bars, beaches and outdoor markets. Then get out of the city to the Blue Mountains or Royal National Park. Next, fly directly to the Red Centre to spend three days exploring Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park – both Uluru and Kata Tjuta deserve as much time as you can give them – with a night in Wa-tarrka National Park (Kings Canyon).

With a week left, you’re heading for the Top End. Fly to Darwin and head straight out to Kakadu National Park for rock art, river cruises and fabulous wildlife. Swing over to Cairns, from where you can spend your last few days in Daintree rainforests at Mossman Gorge and snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef.

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Follow the coast from Adelaide to Cairns and you’ll see every kind of Australia, from sleepy seaside hamlets to the bright lights of Sydney Harbour, plus wildlife, wilderness and waves galore. You could do it in four rushed weeks, but we recommend a minimum of six to really soak it all in.

Regal Adelaide is a low-key city to begin your Oz odyssey. Head south to dreamy Robe via the salty Coorong National Park, snapping a selfie with Larry the Lobster on the way. Next, the blue lake at Mt Gambier, after a winery cycle in Penola and you’re into Victoria. Port Fairy is the first Great Ocean Road highlight but more await be-tween here and Torquay, where you might want to stop a night and soak up the surf culture. Then it’s due north to Geelong with its traditional seafront distractions and Melbourne for a city culture fix.

From Melbourne the Princess Hwy runs inland through rolling countryside, but choose a couple of spots to detour to the coast: Wilsons Promontory, Cape Conran and Mallacoota are all excellent. Once you enter New South Wales you’re on twisting highway past ocean hamlets from Eden north to Wollongong and Royal National Park. Make sure you do the elevated Grand Pacific Drive during daylight hours.

A few days in Sydney will recharge your batteries after all that driving as you’re not even halfway yet. Next, meander north along the Pacific Hwy through central and north-ern NSW. Quaff wines in the Hunter Valley and stop to splash in the sea at family-friendly Port Stephens and Coffs Harbour, home of the iconic, kitsch Big Banana. Skip up to Byron Bay for wellness awakenings and superb beaches, then head over the Queensland border to the surf- and sun-addled Gold Coast. Pause in Brisbane for another big-city hit, then amble up through the Glass House Mountains and on to the unsung gem, Noosa on the Sunshine Coast.

The Bruce Hwy traces the stunning coast into Far North Queensland. Spot some pass-ing whales off the coast of Hervey Bay and track further north to the blissful Whit-sundays archipelago, the coral charms of the Great Barrier Reef and the scuba-diving nexus of Cairns.

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This classic 3000km dash up the Stuart Hwy takes you into Australia’s desert heart.

From the eat streets and old stone pubs of Adelaide, head north to the Barossa Valley for world-beating red wines. Next stop is the Clare Valley followed by rust-coloured Ikara- Flinders Ranges Na-tional Park: Ikara (Wilpena Pound) jags up from the semidesert.

Just off the Stuart Hwy are the opal-tinted dugouts of unique Coober Pedy. Continuing north into the desert, the Lasseter Hwy delivers you to iconic Ulu-ru-Kata Tjuta National Park. The gap-ing chasm of Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon) is 300km further north.

Overnight in the desert oasis of Alice Springs, then continue north (consider flying) to the wetlands and rock-scapes of World Heritage–listed Kakadu National Park and the waterfalls and swimming holes of Litchfield National Park.

Darwin is a remote but multicultural city with sunset hawker markets and the excellent Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory.

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Feeling adventurous? Fly into Perth, take a quick detour south to Margaret River, then drive north up the coast until you hit Darwin!

Enjoy the laid-back charms of Perth and Fremantle, then head southwest for wine, surfing, forests and foodie delights from Margaret River to Albany. Ham-mer back past Perth and north to the otherworldly Nambung National Park, followed by Kalbarri with its soaring sea cliffs and incredible gorges. Then hug the coast for superb whale watching or snor-kelling at Ningaloo Reef.

Inland are the ironstone hues of the Pilbara. Cool off in the gorges at Karijini National Park. Then follow a coastline known as the Big Empty all the way north-east to Broome: watch the camels on Cable Beach at sunset. Nearby Dampier Peninsula beckons with off-grid camping with Aboriginal communities.

Take the Great Northern Hwy to the sandstone domes of Purnululu National Park. Restock at Kununarra, then cross the border to the NT. The last leg of your road trip adventure to Darwin via Kath-erine is not too far away.

4 WEEKS

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Top: Surfers at Noosa (p326), Queensland

Bottom: Pinnacles Desert (p931) stargazing, Western Australia

36

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Deb Burton, Pieter van Cleemputte, Bob Gasston, Ross Hartley, Martin Henner, Richard Kempton, Paula Köchling, Peter Tudor, Andrew Walter, Catharina Westrin

WRITER THANKSBrett AtkinsonThanks to the experts at visitor information centres and national parks around Victoria and NSW, and cheers to Greg and Francie in Echuca and the Mildura crew. Nick Cave, Mark Seymour and Mick Thomas provided the essential Australian soundtrack for long drives in red dirt landscapes, while words by Peter FitzSimons and Ian Jones illuminated history along the way. Thanks to Tasmin Waby for another opportu-nity to explore my Australian backyard, and to Carol.

Andrew BainFor sharing the road, a big thanks to Anila Rao and my two junior partners in travel crime, Kiri and Cooper. A general thanks to all the tour operators and others who shared their ideas and thoughts for me. Special thanks to Sherene Somerville for a long list of suggestions, and Tracey Leitch for smoothing the way when needed.

Fleur BaingerThrilled and grateful to be on board, I’m eager to thank both Tasmin and Charles for their endless patience with helping me learn the guidebook writing ropes. Western Australia’s epic scenery, passionate characters and inspiring produce also deserve gratitude; they constantly inspire me to share the word on this stunning, still relatively untouched part of the world.

Cristian BonettoAn especially big thank you to Tasmin Waby for the commission and to Drew Westbrook for the generous hospitality and insight. Many thanks also to those who shared their passion for Queensland’s southeast with me, among them Peter Scudamore-Smith, Monique Krause, Brooke Billett, Lauren Grounsell, Glen Robert, Angelo Puglisi, Leeanne Gangemi-Puglisi, Dylan Rhymer, Peter McGlashan, Jason Hannay, Tama Barry, Grace Dewar, Tim Crabtree and Leanne Layfield. Thanks also to my ever-diligent fellow writers, Kate Morgan, Hugh McNaughtan, and Paul Harding.

Samantha ForgeMy thanks to Canberra locals Rachel, Sam, Emma, Harry and Lily for sharing all their insider tips. Thanks also to my travelling companions Karyn, Bill and Gemma for helping me cram as many meals into each day as possible. Lastly, thanks to everyone at Lonely Planet for their hard work on this title, and

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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especially to Tasmin Waby for once again throwing me in the deep end with complete faith in my swimming abilities.

Anthony HamHuge thanks to Tasmin Waby for sending me to such soulful places, and for much wisdom. Imogen Bannister also brought great insight to the editing. Too many people to thank across the Territory and Queensland – thanks to everyone for welcoming me so warmly to country. Special thanks to Kath Soa and Geoff Mark in Katherine, Liam and the Border Store team in Katherine, and many more. To Valentina, Carlota and Marina – os quiero. And to Jan – you have the biggest heart in Australia.

Paul HardingFar North Queensland is a wonderful part of Australia and I thank all the people who helped with advice, information or just a chat on this trip. Thanks to Dirk on Thursday Island, Vanessa on Horn Island and Col from AMPTO for the inform-ative discussion about the reef in Cairns. Sincere thanks to Tasmin at Lonely Planet for gifting me these opportunities. And most of all, thanks to Hannah and Layla for always being there.

Trent HoldenFirst up a massive thanks to Tasmin Waby for giving me another opportunity to cover my home state for Lonely Planet; a wonderful gig! Also a big thanks to my fellow writers and the production staff who’ve worked hard to put this all together. Thank you to all the folk from the tourist informa-tion centres who’ve helped out along the way – in particular Glenn Harvey from Bendigo, Clare Hutch-ison from Castlemaine and Selma Kajan in Ballarat who assisted with useful tips. Finally, lots of love to all my family, and especially my fiancé Kate.

Anita IsalskaA heartfelt thank you for the many warm welcomes I received in NSW. For local knowledge I’m grateful to Shane Carriage, Chris Scroggy, Noel Butler, Jane Atkin, Kate Sullivan, Sarah Shields and Ian Hutton. Thanks also to John Kowalewski for helping me hit the Gong, Noraidah and George Atkin for being Narooma’s best unlisted highlight, and Michele and Peter Williams for their attentive wine-tasting. Big thanks to Normal Matt for write-up support and enduring my long-distance photos of white-sand beaches.

Anna KaminskiHuge thanks to Tasmin for entrusting me with a chunk of WA, fellow scribes Charles, Steve, Carolyn and Brett for the advice, and to everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular: John and Debbie in Geraldton, Barbara in Esperance, Anna in Meekatharra, my adoptive Wongutha family (Linden, Trevor and Marcia), plus Monica, Billy and Becky in Kalgoorlie, ‘Capes’ in Denham, Amy in Port Hedland, Maria, Kate and Michael in Denmark, Lyn in Norseman, plus all the helpful visitor centre staff

and Aboriginal artists who’ve shared their work with me.

Tatyana LeonovI want to thank the locals who were kind enough to share their personal stories with me, the staff at the various attractions I visited who took their time to show me around, and the tourism marketing officers who pointed me in the right direction in each of the towns I visited.

Sofia LevinWriting about your home city is both an honour and challenge. I am floored by the dedication and talent of those in the hospitality industry, from tiny, family-run restaurants to the big guys creating waves overseas – thank you for making Melbourne the best city in the world. To Matt: thank you for giving me support, space and encouragement chocolate. And finally, I’m ever grateful to my parents (aka my biggest fans), for instilling me with insatiable curiosity and appetite.

Virginia MaxwellVictoria is my home turf, so I was able to inter-rogate innumerable friends and family members about their favourite places before setting off to research this edition. Thanks to them all. Peter and Max Handsaker accompanied me on day and overnight trips and were, as always, wonderful travelling companions. Dave McClymont and Janet Austin were particularly helpful in the Dandenongs. Thanks to Tasmin Waby for her expert briefing and project guidance, and to fellow Victoria authors Sofia, Brett and Trent for nominating their top eating and sleeping picks.

Hugh McNaughtanMy gratitude goes out to all who made this gig possible: Tasmin for the opportunity and guidance; Mum for the company in New South Wales; and most especially Tas (again) and my girls for allow-ing me to disappear again for many, many weeks.

Kate MorganThank you to Tasmin for sending me off on a road trip of one of Australia’s most beautiful stretches of coastline. To all of the friendly locals and staff at visitor information centres, and to the people at NSW National Parks & Wildlife Service, thanks for all of your help. Thanks to Caro Cooper, Leigh and Sarah for all of your excellent Gold Coast tips, and finally thanks to my partner Trent who I was lucky to travel with on part of this trip.

Charles Rawlings-WayBoundless thanks to Tasmin for the gig, to Fleur for the inside running on Perth culture, and to all the helpful souls I met on the road in South Australia and in/around Perth who flew through my ques-tions with the greatest of ease. Biggest thanks of all to Meg, who held the increasingly chaotic fort while I was busy scooting around in the sunshine (‘Where’s daddy?’) – and made sure that Ione,

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Remy, Liv and Reuben were fed, watered, washed, schooled, tucked-in and read-to.

Andy SymingtonMy research was greatly facilitated by many extremely helpful people along the way. I am particularly grateful to a range of friends for recommendations and for entertaining research company. Thanks also to my family for their support, to Kate Morgan for her suggestions and to Tasmin Waby at LP.

Steve WatersBig thanks to John and Jan for fireside hospitality, Lauren, James, Jane, Trish, Anika and the rest of MC for (more) gorge love, Marie for vino frenzies, Leonie and Mera for tea and bikkies, Ted for unruli-ness, Kaz for listening, Roz and Megan for caretak-ing, Vicky and Pippa for letting me trash their car, and Jennifer from the RACV for getting me out of Marla on Grand Final Day.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Illustration pp74-5 by Javier Zarracina.Cover photograph: Whitehaven Beach, Queensland, Maurizio Rellini/4Corners Images ©

THIS BOOKThis 20th edition of Lonely Planet’s Australia guidebook was curated by Andrew Bain, Samantha Forge, Anthony Ham, Trent Holden, Hugh Mc-Naughtan, Charles Rawlings- Way and Andy Symington. It was researched and written by Brett Atkinson, Andrew, Fleur Bainger, Cristian Bonetto, Samantha, Anthony, Paul Har-ding, Rachael Hocking, Trent, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski, Tatyana Leonov, Sofia Levin, Virginia Maxwell, Hugh, Kate Morgan, Charles, Andy, Tasmin Waby and Steve Waters. We would also like to thank the fol-

lowing people people for their contributions to this guide: Cathy Craigie, Tim Flannery and Dr Janelle White. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Tasmin WabySenior Product Editors Kate Chapman, Anne MasonRegional Senior Cartogra-pher Julie SheridanProduct Editor Hannah CartmelBook Designer Lauren EganAssisting Editors Sarah Bai-ley, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Pete Cruttenden, Jacqueline

Danam, Andrea Dobbin, Emma Gibbs, Carly Hall, Gabby Innes, Kellie Langdon, Lou McGregor, Kristin Odjik, Lorna Parkes, Fionnuala TwomeyCartographers Julie Dodkins, Michael GarrettCover Researcher Brendan Dempsey–SpencerThanks to Jennifer Carey, Laura Crawford, Bruce Evans, Victoria Harrison, Eimear Healy, David Hodges, Amy Lynch, Catherine Naghten, Claire Naylor, Kirsten Rawl-ings, Vicky Smith, John Taufa, Angela Tinson, Anna Tyler, Saralinda Turner, Brana Vladis-avljevic, Juan Winata

1082

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

4WD toursAlice Springs 857Cairns 411Esperance 963Fraser Island 353Gibb River Rd 1008, 1009Great Northern Hwy 1012Great Sandy National

Parl 338Magnetic Island 389-90Munja Track 1010Rainbow Beach 347Uluru-Kata Tjuta National

Park 875

AAboriginal art 1039, 1040,

20Aboriginal cultural centres

Arkaroo Rock 790Bataluk Cultural Trail 596Bilya Koort Boodja 928Brambuk Cultural Centre

585Burrinja Cultural Centre

516Cape York 442Cultural Centre

(Townsville) 385Gab Titui Cultural Centre

446Ghunmarn Culture Centre

845Godinymayin Yijard Rivers

Arts & Culture Centre 837

Koorie Heritage Trust 467Lockhart River Arts 442Narana Aboriginal Cultural

Centre 540-1Northern Territory 833Quinkan & Regional

Cultural Centre 443

Spinifex Hill Studios 992Tjapukai Aboriginal

Cultural Park 401Top Didj Cultural

Experience & Art Gallery 837

Tower Hill Reserve 564Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural

Centre 873-4Walyalup Aboriginal

Cultural Centre 889Waralungku Arts Centre

847Warradjan Aboriginal

Cultural Centre 832Western Cape Cultural

Centre 442Wunthulpu Visitor Centre

442Yarkuwa Indigenous

Knowledge Centre 250Yeddonba Aboriginal

Cultural Site 607Aboriginal cultural festivals

Barunga Festival 844Darwin Aboriginal Art

Fair 806Garma Festival 836-7Kullarri Naidoc Week 1001Laura Aboriginal Dance

Festival 443Mahbilil Festival 828Malandarri Festival 847Parrtjima 857Tjungu Festival 877Wallaby Creek Festival

437Aboriginal cultural tours

24-5Alice Springs 857Arnhem Highway 818Arnhem Land 834, 835-6Ballina 176Blue Mountains 138Bourke 209Brisbane 280-1Broken Hill 212Broome 1001

Bunbury 935Burketown 450Byron Bay 182Cooktown 438Dampier Peninsula 1005Darwin 803Denmark 954Derby 1006Devonian Reefs National

Parks 1008Gibb River Rd 1008-9Kakadu National Park

825-6Kalgoorlie-Boulder 1018Karratha 989-90Kings Canyon & Watarrka

National Park 871Kununurra 1014Malanda 425Mandurah 924Melbourne 481Mungo National Park 215Sydney 101Thursday Island 446Tiwi Islands 816-17Tully 393Ulladulla 228Uluru-Kata Tjuta National

Park 875Yorke Peninsula 777

Aboriginal culture 11, 26-8, 209, 721, 790, 815, 1029, 1036-40, 2, 10

dance 1039-40, 2music 1038-9, 1039resources 1040

Aboriginal history 550, 629-32, 1022-3, 1035

abseiling, see rock climbing & abseiling

accessible travel 1060accommodation 25, 1060-3

booking 807houseboats 766

activities 54-8, 62, see also individual activities

websites 56, 58

Adelaide 716-34, 718-19, 722-3, 728-9, 735

accommodation 725-6activities 720-3children, travel with

38, 717drinking & nightlife

728-30entertainment 730-2festivals & events 723-5food 726-8history 716information 732-3itineraries 716shopping 732sights 716-20tours 723travel to/from 733travel within 734

Adelaide Fringe 29Adelaide Hills 734-9, 735adventure tours

Agnes Water 358Blue Mountains 138Broken River 383Byron Bay 182Geeveston 657Hollybank Wilderness

Adventures 688Tarkine Wilderness 703Tasmania 632

AFL 1054Agnes Water 358-62Aireys Inlet 549-51air travel 48, 1071, 1072Airlie Beach 373-7, 375, 46Albany 956-60, 957Albury 246-7alcohol restrictions 443Aldgate 738-9Alice Springs 852-62,

854-5, 868-9amusement parks 38

Adventure World 890Big Banana 170Cairns Adventure Park

403

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1083IN

DEX A

- BDreamworld 317Luna Park (Melbourne)

478Luna Park (Sydney) 87Sugarworld 403Tasmazia 694Warner Bros Movie

World 317Wet’n’Wild 317Wetside Water Park 342WhiteWater World 317

Angaston 761-3Anglesea 548-9Angourie 174-6animals 1044-8, see

also wildlife, individual animals

antechinus 1047-8Anzac Hill 853Apollo Bay 554-6apple cider 142, 923aquariums

Aquascene 800Cairns Aquarium 401Indo-Pacific Marine

Exhibition 801Merewether Aquarium

155National Zoo & Aquarium

257-8Ocean Park (Denham)

973Reef HQ Aquarium 384-5Reefworld 342Sea Life Sunshine Coast

334Seahorse World 686Solitary Islands

Aquarium 170Sydney Sea Life

Aquarium 82Arcadia 389area codes 1068Arkaroo Rock 790Armidale 194-6Arnhem Highway 817-20Arnhem Land 20, 834-7, 20art galleries 28, see

also Aboriginal cultural centres

Aboriginal Exhibitions Gallery 610

Araluen Arts Centre 852-3

Art Gallery of Ballarat 571

Art Gallery of NSW 79Art Gallery of South

Australia 717Art Gallery of Western

Australia 887

ArtGeo Cultural Complex 936

Bana Yirriji Art Centre 437

Bank Art Museum Moree 199

Bendigo Art Gallery 577Brett Whiteley Studio 83Broken Hill Regional Art

Gallery 210Buku Larrnggay Mulka

Art Centre & Museum 836

Bunbury Regional Art Gallery 935

Bundaberg Regional Arts Gallery 350

Bungalow 998Cairns 415Canberra Museum & Art

Gallery 257Castlemaine Art Museum

581Celia Rosser Gallery 589Chambers of the Black

Hand 199Childers Palace Memor-

ial & Art Gallery 350Convent Gallery 524-5Courthouse Gallery

991-2East Pilbara Arts Centre

994Field of Light 876Fireworks Gallery 286F Project Gallery 562Fremantle Arts Centre

889Gallery of Modern

Art 276Geelong Art Gallery 537Girringun Aboriginal Art

Centre 393Godinymayin Yijard

Rivers Arts & Culture Centre 837

Heartwalk 1018Heide Museum of

Modern Art 484Ian Potter Centre: NGV

Australia 463-6Injalak Arts 835Institute of Modern

Art 286Jan Murphy Gallery 286KickArts Contemporary

Arts 415Kuku Bulkaway Gallery

438Lismore Regional Gallery

189Lost Ones Gallery 571

MAMA 246Mangkaja Arts 1012Marnin Studio 1012Milani 286Mildura Arts Centre

619-20MONA 15, 635, 15Murray Bridge Regional

Gallery 766Museum & Art Gallery of

the Northern Territory 801-2

Museum of Contemporary Art (Sydney) 79

National Gallery of Australia 254

National Portrait Gallery 254

Newcastle Art Gallery 155

NGV International 467, 470, 514

Northam Silo Art 928Northern Rivers

Community Gallery 176

Norval Gallery 1006Nyinkka Nyunyu 849Old Castlemaine Gaol

581Perth Institute of

Contemporary Arts 887-8

Pillars Project 286Pro Hart Gallery 210Qdos Art Gallery 551Queen Victoria Art

Gallery 679Queenscliff Gallery

543-4Queensland Art Gallery

276Riddoch Art Gallery 774Rockhampton Art Gallery

364Salamanca Arts Centre

635Samurai Gallery 415Sandra Bardas Art

Gallery 520Suzanne O’Connell

Gallery 286Tanks Arts Centre 415TarraWarra Museum of

Art 518Toowoomba Regional Art

Gallery 309Top Didj Cultural

Experience & Art Gallery 837

Walkatjara Art Centre 874

Waralungku Arts Centre 847

Warlukurlangu Art Centre 852

Warrnambool Art Gallery 561

White Rabbit 87Wintjiri Arts & Museum

876Yaama Ganu Centre 198Yarliyil Gallery 1013

Atherton 424-5Atherton Tablelands 421-7ATMs 1066-7Auburn 763Augusta 947Aussie Rules 1054Australia Day 29Australia Zoo 334Australian Capital Territory

252-71, 253accommodation 252climate 252food 252highlights 253travel seasons 252weather 252

Australian F1 Grand Prix 30Australian Football League

(AFL) 1052Australian Institute of

Marine Science 388Australian Open 29Australian Parliament

House 254-6automobile clubs 1073-4Avoca 146Avon Valley 927-9Ayton 437

BB&Bs 1061Babinda 399backpacker hostels 1062Bairnsdale (Buruli) Ulcer

1064Ballarat 571-5, 572Ballina 176-8ballooning

Brisbane 280Byron Bay 181Cairns 403Hunter Valley 150

banana farm 396Bangalow 188-9bank holidays 1067-8Barcaldine 458-9Bare Island 96, 93Barkly Tableland 845-8

1084

IND

EX B

Barossa Valley 16, 757-62, 758, 16

barramundi 449bars 124Batavia 1024Batavia Coast 965-72Batchelor 820-1Batemans Bay 229-30Bathurst 200-1Bathurst Island 815Battery Point 635Bay of Fires 673-4Bay of Islands Coastal

Park 561BBQs 1050beaches 26-8, 37

Avalon 89Batemans Bay 229Bells Beach 548Berry 221Boat Harbour Beach 700Bondi Beach 85, 94Bronte Beach 85, 96Byron Bay 179Cable Beach 998, 1004Cactus Beach 787Cape Tribulation 433City Beach (Perth) 888Coogee Beach 86Coral Bay 979Cottesloe Beach 888Cow Bay 433Cylinder Beach 305Dampier Peninsula 1005Eastern Beach Geelong

537Ellis Beach 421Exmouth 985Freycinet National Park

669Garie Beach 136Gnaraloo Bay 977Great Keppel Island

367-8Gulf St Vincent 743-5Jervis Bay 225Johanna Beach 556Kalbarri 969Lillico Beach 698Lizard Island 438Logan’s Beach 562Mackay 371Mandurah 924Manly Beach 88-9McLean Beach 250

Mission Beach 394-8Newcastle 156Ninety Mile Beach 597Ninety Mile Beach

(SA) 773Noosa 326, 62Norman Beach 590Ocean Beach 708Palm Beach 89, 321Palm Cove 419Park Beach 170Parsley Bay 86Pearl Beach 146Point Addis 548Port Elliot 746-7Rainbow Beach 347-9Scarborough

Beach 888Seal Rocks 161Seven Mile Beach 178Shelly Beach 89St Kilda Foreshore 478Store Beach 89Sydney 93-6Tamarama 97-8, 95Tea Tree Bay 326Trinity Beach 419Wattamolla Beach 136Whitsunday Islands 379Wollongong 217Yorkeys Knob 419

Beauty Point 685-6Bedourie 461Beechworth 606-9beer 1053Bellarine Peninsula 543-6Bellinger 168-70Bells Beach 548Bells Line of Road 142Bendigo 575-80, 576Ben Lomond National Park

689-90Bennelong 1026Bermagui 234Berowra Waters 146Berri 769Berrima 239Berry 221-2Berry Springs 820Beswick (Wugularr) 845Bicheno 671-2bicycle travel, see cyclingBig Banana 170Big Prawn 176Bilpin 142Binalong Bay 673-4Bingara 195birds 941, 1045

bird sanctuariesBroome Bird

Observatory 998Broughton Island 162Rainbow Jungle 969

Birdsville 461Birdsville Track 49, 460,

794birdwatching

Bicheno 672Daintree Village 436Low Head 687

Birdwood 739Blackheath 144-5Black Saturday 523Black Point 779Blinman 792Bloomfield Track 437Blowhole 671Blue Lake 774Blue Mountains 138-46,

140, 66boat tours & cruises

803-6Airlie Beach 374Bay of Fires 674Brisbane 280Bruny Island 653-4Canberra 258-9Coorong 747Devonport 691Echuca 626Esperance 963Exmouth 982Gordon River Cruises

708Hervey Bay 343Hobart 637-8, 639Innisfail 398Kununurra 1015Lake St Clair 705Magnetic Island 389Mallacoota 599Mandurah 924Maria Island National

Park 667Merimbula 235Mildura 621Narooma 232Nelson 570Peels Lake Cruises 595Pemberton 950Pieman River Cruises

703Port Douglas 429Rottnest Island 916Strahan 708-9Sydney 98-100Tamar River Cruises 679

Tasman National Park 662

Victor Harbor 745-6Victoria River 843-4Waikerie 767Walpole 951-2Whitsunday Islands 379Wilsons Promontory

590Wineglass Bay 670

boat travel 1072Bondi Beach 85, 94Bondi Icebergs 97, 94border crossings 1016Boreen Point 339-40Borroloola 847-8Boulia 460-1Bourke 209-10Bowen 382Bowral 239-41Bradman Collection 719Brambuk Cultural

Centre 585Bramwell Station 444breakfast 113breweries

Barossa Valley Brewing 760

Beer Farm 946Beer Garden Brewing

784Blizzard Brewing Co

617-18Boag’s Brewery 679Bootleg Brewery 946Bridge Road Brewers

607Bright Brewery 613Bundaberg Barrel 350Cascade Brewery 637Caves Road Collective

946Coopers Brewery 720Forrest Brewing

Company 555Gurneys Cider 589Hobart Brewing

Company 646Kangaroo Island Brewery

753-4Little Bang Brewing

Company 730Little Creatures & White

Rabbit 542Pagan Cider 655Red Duck Brewery 571Robe Town Brewery 771Rutherglen Brewery

610-11Shambles Brewery 646

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1085IN

DEX B

- CSmiling Samoyed

Brewery 743Social Bandit Brewing

Co 604Sow & Piglets 560Stomping Ground

Brewery & Beer Hall 471-506

Sweetwater Brewing Company 615

Willie Smith’s Apple Shed 655

Woolshed Brewery 770-1Yarra Valley 521

Bribie Island 331Bridgetown 948Bright 613-15Brisbane 273-305, 278-9,

282-3, 288, 292, 306, 66

accommodation 272, 283-6

activities 277-80children, travel with 277drinking & nightlife

294-9entertainment 299-300festivals & events 281food 272, 286-94information 301-2LGBTIQ+ travellers 297markets 302shopping 300-1sights 273-7tours 280-1travel to/from 303travel within 303-5

Brisbane Powerhouse 276-7

Broadbeach 318-19Broken Hill 19, 210-14,

214, 211Broken River 382-3Brooklyn 146Broome 18, 995-1003,

1000, 7, 18brunch 113Brunswick Heads 187-8Bruny Island 652-5Buchan 596Buckley, William 550Bunbury 933-6Bundaberg 350-2Bundeena 136Bungle Bungle Range

1016-17Burke & Wills 1028Burketown 450Burleigh Heads 319-21Burnie 698-700

Burra 764bus travel 1072-3, 1073bush tucker 1051, 10bushfires 523, 1042, 1058bushwalking 28, 54-5, see

also walking, walking tours

Alice Springs 856Bataluk Cultural Trail

596Bay of Fires 674Ben Boyd National

Park 238Bibbulmun Track 958Blue Mountains 143,

144, 145Bruny Island 654Cairns 411Camperdown Timboon

Rail Trail 560Cape Naturaliste 940Cataract Gorge 677-8Coast Track 136Cradle Mountain 704East Gippsland Rail

Trail 599Flinders Island 676Flinders Ranges 787Freycinet National Park

669Gold Coast 317Grampians 586Grampians Peaks Trail

583Great Ocean Walk 556Heysen Trail 743Hinchinbrook Island 393Ikara-Flinders Ranges

National Park 791Kakadu National Park

827Kangaroo Island

Wilderness Trail 756Kidman Trail 743Kings Canyon 870-1Koorie Cultural Walk 548Kunanyi/Mt Wellington

635-7Lake St Clair 704-5Larapinta Trail 865Lurujarri Dreaming

Trail 999Maria Island Walk 667Marysville 522-3Mawson Trail 743Mossman 432Mt Beauty 615Mt Sorrow Ridge Walk

435Murray River Walk 770

Murray to Mountains Rail Trail 614

Narooma 232Newcastle 156Nightcap National

Park 192Nitmiluk National Park

841Nourlangie 832Overland Track 705Porongurup National

Park 960Port Augusta 782Port Campbell 557Port Davey Track 660,

712Port Macquarie Coastal

Walk 163South Coast Track

660, 712Stirling Range National

Park 961Surf Coast Walk 548Tabletop Track 822Tarkine Wilderness 703Three Capes Track 662Ulladulla 228Uluru & Kata-Tjuta 875Walls of Jerusalem

National Park 697Wilsons Promontory 594Wineglass Bay 669Yaburara Heritage Trail

989Yorke Peninsula 777Yuraygir Coastal Walk

173bushwalking tours

Margaret River 942business hours 1067Busselton 936-7Byfield 366Byron Bay 15, 178-87,

180-1, 15

CCable Beach 998,

1004, 18cable cars, see also scenic

railwaysArthurs Seat Eagle 528Scenic World 142-3Skyrail Rainforest

Cableway 403Cactus Beach 787Cahill’s Crossing 827Cairns 399-418, 400-1,

420, 406accommodation 412-13activities 403-4

drinking & nightlife 415-16

entertainment 416festivals & events 412food 413-15information 417shopping 416sights 399-403tours 411-12travel to/from 417travel within 417-18

Caloundra 332-4camel tours

Alice Springs 856Broome 999

camping 25, 1061Canberra 63, 255, 260,

262accommodation 252,

259-63activities 258-9children, travel with

38, 257drinking & nightlife

267-9entertainment 269festivals & events 259food 252, 263-7highlights 253history 254information 270itineraries 258shopping 269-70sights 254-8tours 258-9travel to/from 270travel within 271

canoeing 769, see also kayaking & canoeing

canopy adventuresDwellingup (Trees

Adventure) 923Lorne (Live Wire Park)

551Mamu Tropical Skywalk

398Otway Fly 554, 539Pemberton (Gloucester

Tree) 949Tahune Adventures 657Tree Climb Adelaide 721

Cape Arid 964Cape Borda Lightstation

756Cape Bridgewater 567Cape Bruny Lighthouse

652-3Cape Conran Coastal Park

598-9

1086

IND

EX C- D

Cape Jervis 744Cape Le Grand 964Cape Naturaliste 15, 940Cape Nelson 567Cape Otway 556-7, 18Cape Tourville 669Cape Tribulation 433-6,

434Cape Willoughby

Lightstation 752Cape York Peninsula 439-

46, 440-1Capricorn Hinterland

368-9Capricorn Coast 358-69,

360-1car travel 1073-8, see also

four-wheel drive toursbuying a vehicle 1074-5outback 48-53road distance 1075safety 50

caravanning 1061Cardwell 392-3Carlo Sandblow 347Carnarvon 976-7Carpentaria Hwy 846-7Carrickalinga 744Cassius 418cassowaries 397Castlemaine 581-3Cataract Gorge 677-8cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Buchan Caves 596Capricorn Caves 364Cave Gardens 774Crystal Caves 425Hastings Caves 658Jenolan Caves 145-6Jewel Cave 947King Solomons Cave 696Marakoopa Cave 696Naracoorte Caves

National Park 775Ngilgi Cave 940Remarkable Cave 662Yarrangobilly Caves 244

Caves Rd 945-7Ceduna 786cell phones 22, 1068cemeteries

Broome 998Cowra & Japanese War

Cemeteries 204

Waverley Cemetery 86Central Gibb 1010central regions 64Central Tilba 233-4Cervantes 931-2Channel Country 460-1Charles Knife Canyon 988Charleville 459-60Charters Towers 386, 452Childers 349-50children, travel with 37-9

Adelaide 717Canberra 257Hobart 639

Chiltern-Mt Pilot National Park 607

ChinatownBrisbane 277Melbourne 466Sydney 79-80

Chinese templesHou Wang Miau Temple

425chocolate 395chocolate factories

Yarra Valley Chocolaterie & Ice Creamery 519

churches & cathedralsAbbey Church 929Beagle Bay Church 1005Christ Church Cathedral

(Newcastle) 155St James’ Church 81-2St Mary’s Cathedral

(Sydney) 81St Monica’s Cathedral

402St Paul’s Cathedral 467

Churchill Island 532cinemas

Brisbane 301Dromana Drive-In 528Melbourne 506-7Sydney 130

Clare 765Clare Valley 762-5climate 22, 29-32, 47,

1041, 22climate change 1042-3,

1071Cloncurry 452clubs 124Cobbold Gorge 447Cobourg Peninsula 836Cockatoo Island 86Cockle Creek 660coffee 267, 1050-1, 514Coffin Bay 784-5Coffs Harbour 170-4, 171

Coles Bay 669-71Collingwood Children’s

Farm 471conservation groups 1046convict sites 80, 86, 637,

661, 688, 889Coober Pedy 794-6, 795Cooinda 832-3Cook, Captain James 1023cooking courses

Agrarian Kitchen 651Brisbane 281Essential Ingredient 478

Cooktown 437-9Coolangatta 322Cooloola Coast 338-40Coolum 337-8Cooma 241-2Coonabarabran 198Coonawarra 777Coonawarra Wine Region

776, 777Coorong National Park

773-4Coral Bay 978-82coral bleaching 404Coral Coast, see Ningaloo

Coastcoral spawning 412Corinna 703costs 23, 37courses

cooking 478, 651diving 404

Cowaramup 944Cow Bay 433Cowra 203-5Cradle Mountain-Lake St

Clair National Park 17, 704-7, 17, 56

credit cards 1067Crescent Head 166cricket 1054-5

Adelaide Oval 718-19Melbourne Cricket

Ground 470Croajingolong National

Park 601crocodile jumping 819crocodiles 61, 418, 421,

436, 1048, 1058-9, 27, 805

Crocodylus Park 802-3Crocosaurus Cove 800,

805Croydon 447-8cruises, see boats tours &

cruisesCSIRO Parkes Observatory

207

cultural centres, see Aborig inal cultural centres

currency 22, 1067Currumbin 321customs regulations 1063cycling 55-6, 1072

Adelaide 723Alice Springs 856Beechworth 607Bright 613Brisbane 277-80Camperdown Timboon

Rail Trail 560Castlemaine to Maldon

Rail Trail 581East Gippsland Rail

Trail 599Encounter Bikeway 745Great Victorian Rail

Trail 604Heysen Trail 743Hobart 637Kidman Trail 743Mandurah 924Mawson Trail 743McLaren Vale 740Melbourne 481Merimbula 235Murray to Mountains

Rail Trail 614O’Keefe Rail Trail 578Outback 51Perth 890Riesling Trail 762Rottnest Island 916Sydney 91, 100

cyclones 377Cygnet 655Cygnet River 754-6

DDaintree 14, 432-6, 14Daintree Village 436Dales Gorge 994Daly Waters Pub 849Dampier 990-1Dampier Peninsula 1004-6dance

Aboriginal 1039-40Dandenongs 516-18dangers, see safetyd’Arenberg 741, 27Dark Point Aboriginal Place

161-2Darwin 800-15, 802, 808-

9, 816-17, 804-5accommodation 797,

806-7Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1087IN

DEX D

- Fchildren, travel with 38drinking & nightlife 812entertainment 812festivals & events 806food 797, 807-12history 800information 814markets 813safety 814shopping 812-16sights 800-3travel to/from 814-15travel within 815

Darwin region 815-24, 816-17

Daydream Island 378Daylesford 524-7Death Rock 789debit cards 1067Deloraine 695dengue fever 1065Denham 972-4Deniliquin 250-1Denmark 953-6Derby (Tas) 674-6Derby (WA) 1006-7Devil’s Marbles 850Devonport 690-4diarrhoea 1064dingoes 60-1, 356, 2Dinner Plain 617-19dinosaurs 456disabilities, travellers with

1060discount cards 1063distilleries

Ambleside Distillers 737Animus Distillery 580Applewood Distillery 739Barossa Distilling

Company 761Bundaberg Rum

Distillery 350Cape Byron Distillery 179Echuca Distillery &

Cafe 627Great Ocean Road Gin

549Great Southern Distillery

957Hellyers Road Distillery

698Hurdle Creek Still 606-7Kangaroo Island Spirits

754-5Kilderkin Distillery 571Lark Distillery 646Margaret River Distilling

Company 942Nant Distillery 664

Old Kemp Distillery 664Prohibition Liquor

Co 729Starward Distillery 475Sullivans Cove Distillery

649Timboon Railway Shed

Distillery 560Twenty Third Street 770Whipper Snapper

Distillery 885Yarra Valley 522

diving & snorkelling 57, 46, 409

Apollo Bay 554Bellarine Peninsula

544-5Broken River 383Broome 999Bundaberg 351Byron Bay 182Cairns 404Cape Tribulation 435Coffs Harbour 172Coral Bay 979Exmouth 982-4, 986Geraldton 966Jervis Bay 226Magnetic Island 390Merimbula 235Mooloolaba 335Narooma 232Ningaloo Marine Park 16,

987-8, 16North Stradbroke Island

305Rainbow Beach 347Sydney 91Whitsunday Islands 378

dog sleddingHowling Husky Sled Dog

Tours 617dolphins 226, 545, 934,

974-5, 979Doo Town 660Dover 657-8Dreaming stories 863drinks 1049-53

beer 1053coffee 1050-1wine 1053

driving, see car traveldrugs 1066Drysdale River 1009Dubbo 205-6Dudley Peninsula 751-2Dunalley 659-60Duncan Rd 1014Dunk Island 398Dunkeld 586-92

Dunsborough 937-40Dwellingup 923-4

EEaglehawk Neck 660-1East MacDonnell Ranges

862-4Eastern Gibb 1010-17echidnas 1048, 11Echuca 624-7, 625Eden 236-9eftpos 1066-7electricity 1063Emmagen Creek 437Emu Bay 754environment 1041-8environmental issues

1042-4coral bleaching 404crocodile jumping 819uranium mines 828

Errinundra National Park 597-8

Esperance 962-5Eumundi 341Eureka Stockade 574Eurong 355Evandale 689events, see festivals &

eventsEwaninga 867exchange rates 23Exmouth 982-5, 983Eyre Peninsula 780-7, 781

FFairhaven 549Falls Creek 616-17farmstays 1062-3fauna 1044-8, see also

individual animalsfederation 1030-1Federation Square 463feral animals 1044ferry travel 767, 75festivals & events 29-32,

see also film festivals, food & wine festivals, LGBTIQ+ festivals, literary festivals, music festivals

Abbey Medieval Festival 331

Adelaide Cabaret Festival 724

Adelaide Festival 724Adelaide Fringe 723Adelaide Hills 736Airlie Beach Race Week

374

Art, Not Apart 259A Taste of Broome 1001Australia Day Skyworks

891-2Australian Italian Festival

392Australian National

Goanna Pulling Championships 173

Ballarat 573Barossa Valley 757Beer Can Regatta 806Big Pineapple Music

Festival 335Bleach Festival 314Blessing of the Fleet 894Boab Festival 1006Bowral Tulip Time

Festival 240Brisbane Comedy

Festival 281Brisbane Festival 281Brisbane Street Art

Festival 281Cairns Festival 412Cairns Show 412Canberra Balloon

Spectacular 259Chinese New Year 101Darwin Fringe Festival

806Deniliquin Ute Muster

250‘Ekka’ Royal Queensland

Show 281Enlighten 259Falls Festival (NSW) 183Falls Festival (Tas)

659-60Falls Festival (Vic) 551Floriade 259Fringe World Festival 891Henley-on-Todd Regatta

857Hervey Bay Ocean

Festival 343Hobart 639-40Kings Park Festival 894Launceston 679Lismore Lantern Parade

189Market Days 954Mary Poppins Festival

349Melbourne 482Mt Isa Rodeo 454National Multicultural

Festival 259National Penny Farthing

Championships 689Ord Valley Muster 1015

1088

IND

EX F- H

festivals & events continuedParkes Elvis Festival 207Port Douglas Carnivale

429Port Fairy Folk Festival

565Port Lincoln 783Red Earth Arts Festival

990Royal Canberra Show 259Sakura Matsuri 204Sawtell Chilli Festival 174Sculpture by the Sea 102Sea Grass Monitoring

1001Shinju Matsuri Festival of

the Pearl 1002Sunshine Festival 967Sydney Festival 101Sydney to Hobart Yacht

Race 639-40Ten Days on the Island

632Vivid Sydney 102Whale Festival 237WOMADelaide 30, 724

Field of Light 896, 830Figure Eight Pools 136film festivals

Adelaide Film Festival 724

Brisbane International Film Festival 283

CinéfestOZ 936Melbourne International

Film Festival 31, 507Sydney Film Festival 102

Finch Hatton Gorge 382Finke & Old Andado

Tracks 51Fish Creek 589fishing 57

Airlie Beach 373Cairns 411Port Campbell 557-8

Fitzroy Crossing 1012-13Fitzroy Island 418Fleurieu Peninsula 739-48,

740Flinders Chase National

Park 756-9Flinders Island 676-84Flinders Ranges 787-92,

788Flinders Street Station

466-7

flora 1044-8flying foxes 168food 38, 1049-53, 62

bush tucker 1051, 10Clifford’s Honey Farm

755Milawa Gourmet Region

606Twelve Apostles Gourmet

Trail 560food & wine festivals

Adelaide 724Bangalow 188Barossa Valley 757Broome Mango Festival

1002Canberra District Wine

Week 271Clare Valley Gourmet

Weekend 762Griffith 249Innisfail 398Launceston 679Margaret River 933McLaren Vale 741Melbourne Food & Wine

Festival 482Mudgee Food + Wine

Festival 207Narooma Oyster Festival

232Noosa Food & Wine 327Orange 202Riverland Wine & Food

Festival 769Sawtell Chilli Festival 174Taste of Tasmania 639

food & wine toursAdelaide 723, 740Barossa Valley 757Cape Naturaliste 940Cape Tribulation 435Hobart 638Hunter Valley 150Kangaroo Island 748-9Margaret River 942Mudgee 207Orange 202Perth 891

food trucks 291football 1054, 1055

AFL Grand Final 482Forrest 555Fossickers Way 195four-wheel drive tours, see

4WD toursFowlers Bay 786Franklin-Gordon Wild

Rivers National Park 710-11

Fraser Coast 341-57Fraser Island 19, 352-7,

354, 2, 19Fremantle 889, 906, 4

accommodation 896-8drinking & nightlife 908food 903-4

Fremantle Doctor 905Freycinet National Park

669-71

GGabo Island 599gardens, see parks &

gardensGascoyne Coast 976-8gay travellers 502, 1066Geelong 536-42, 540Geeveston 656-7geology 1042George Town 686-7Geraldton 965-9, 966Ghan, the 21, 1078, 21giardiasis 1065Gibb River Rd 1008-11Gibson Steps 561Gillard, Julia 1035Gippsland 588-601, 590-1Gladstone 362Glass House Mountains

332Glenelg 720Gold Coast 312-14, 313,

315Gold Coast Hinterland

322-4golden stairway 999Goldfields 570-88gold rush 772golf

Opal Fields Golf Club 795-6

Port Douglas 427Ratho Farm 664

Gondwana Rainforests World Heritage Area 192

Goolwa 747-51Gosford 146Grampians 583-8, 584Granite Belt 310-14Granite Island 745Great Australian Bight

Commonwealth Marine Reserve 787

Great Barrier Reef 12, 40-6, 405-10, 42, 12, 46, 405, 408-9

access towns 41camping 43

environmental issues 43islands 40-1responsible tourism 43travel seasons 40websites 41

Great Keppel Island 367-8Great Northern Hwy

1012-14Great Ocean Road 18, 536-

70, 536-7, 538-9Green Island 418Griffith 249-50Griffiths Island 565Grose Valley 145GST 1067Gulf Savannah 446-51Gulf St Vincent 743-5Gulflander 448Gumeracha 739Gunbalanya (Oenpelli)

834-6Gundagai 246Gunn, Jeannie 843Gympie 349

HHahndorf 736-7Halls Creek 1013-14Halls Gap 585-6Hamilton Island 381Hancock Gorge 994hang-gliding 217-18Hanging Rock 527Hartz Mountains National

Park 657Hawker 790-1Hawkesbury River 146Hay 251Head of Bight 786-7Healesville 520-2health 1063-5heat exhaustion 1058, 1064Heide Museum of Modern

Art 484hepatitis C 1065Hepburn Springs 524-7Hermannsburg 866Heron Island 363Hervey Bay 342-7, 344-5High Country, Victoria 601-

19, 602-3hiking 28, 54-5, see also

bushwalkingHinchinbrook Island 393historic sites & buildings

Adelaide Gaol 720Abbotsford Convent 471Aboriginal Tent Embassy

257

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1089IN

DEX H

- KArltunga Historical

Reserve 862Battery Hill 565Beechworth Asylum 607Brickendon 688Burke & Wills Camp 119,

450Callington Mill 664Cascades Female

Factory Historic Site 637

Central Deborah Gold Mine 578

Clarendon 689Coal Mines Historic

Site 662Como House & Garden

478Darlington 667Flagstaff Hill Maritime

Village 561-2Fort Queenscliff 543Fort Scratchley 156Fremantle Prison 889Government House

(Melbourne) 478Heritage Blinman Mine

792Hermannsburg Mission

866Hobart Convict

Penitentiary 634-5Maralinga Atomic Bomb

Test Site 786Martindale Hall 764Melbourne Town Hall 467Myilly Point Heritage

Precinct 800Old Beechworth Gaol

607Old Geraldton Gaol &

Craft Centre 965Old Melbourne Gaol 467Perth Mint 885Port Arthur Historic Site

661-2Rio Vista 619-20Round House 889Royal Exhibition Building

471Sandhurst Gaol 577-8Saumarez Homestead

195Sovereign Hill 571Villa Fortuna 577Woolmers Estat 688WWII Flying Boat Wrecks

998WWII Oil-Storage Tunnels

801Wybalenna Historic

Site 676

history 1022-35Aboriginal Australians

1022-3books 1023, 1025, 1026Canberra 254convict period 1023-6Darwin 800gold rush 1028Perth 884-5Rottnest Island

(Madjemup) 914Sydney 69Tasmania 629-32WWI 1031WWII 1031

hitching 1078Hobart 634-49, 636,

640-1accommodation 640-3activities 637children, travel with 639drinking & nightlife

646-7entertainment 647festivals & events

639-40food 643-6information 648itineraries 638shopping 647-9sights 634-7tours 637-9travel to/from 648-9,

649travel within 649

holidays (public) 1067-8Hook Island 378Horizontal Waterfalls 1007Horn Island 445-6horse racing

Melbourne Cup 482horse riding

Aireys Inlet 550-1Cape Tribulation 435Coffs Harbour 171Kununurra 1014Mt Bogong 615Snowy Mountains 242Tamworth 193Tennant Creek 849Warrnambool 562

Horseshoe Bay 389Hosier Lane 463hostels 103hotels 1062houseboats 766Houtman Abrolhos Islands

968Howard, John 1034

Howes Creek Farm 604Hughenden 452Hunter Valley 147-53, 148Huon Valley 655-6hypothermia 1058

IIan Potter Centre: NGV

Australia 463-6Ikara-Flinders Ranges

National Park 791-2Ingham 391-2Innes National Park 780-1Innisfail 398-9insurance 1063, 1065internet access 1065internet resources 41,

see websitesitineraries 33-6, 33, 34, 35

Canberra 258Sydney 87

JJabiru 828-9Jamison Valley 145Jan Juc 548jellyfish 1059Jenolan Caves 145-6Jervis Bay 225-7Jindabyne 242-3Jondaryan 309Junee 248Jurien Bay 932-3

KKakadu National Park 17,

824-33, 825, 17, 27Kalbarri 969-71, 970Kalgoorlie-Boulder 1017-20Kalumburu 1011Kangaroo Island 748-57,

749kangaroos 61, 1046, 61Kangaroo Valley 222-3Karijini National Park

993-5, 993Karratha 989-90Karumba 448-9Kata Tjuta 874, 874Katherine 837-40, 838Katherine Gorge National

Park, see Nitmiluk National Park

Katoomba 142-4kayaking & canoeing

Adelaide 722Angourie 175Apollo Bay 554

Batemans Bay 229-30Broome 1001Byron Bay 181Eden 237Exmouth 984Freycinet National Park

669Gold Coast 317Hobart 638Jervis Bay 226Kalbarri 970Kangaroo Island 755Kangaroo Valley 223Lake Pedder 710-11Magnetic Island 390Melbourne 481Merimbula 235Mildura 621Mt Field National Park

651Newcastle 159Ningaloo Marine Park

988North Stradbroke Island

305Pemberton 950Perth 890Rapid Bay 744Renmark 770River Country

Adventours 624Rottnest Island 916Royal National Park 136Southwest National

Park 712Sydney 92Tasman National Park

662Town of 1770 358Whitsunday Islands 379

Kenilworth 340Kiama 220-1Kiama Blowhole 220Kiewa Valley 615-16Killcare 146Kimberley, the 995-1017,

996-7King Island 701-2Kings Canyon & Watarrka

National Park 870-2, 871, 831

Kings Park & Botanic Garden 885-7

Kingscote 752-4Kingston SE 773kitesurfing

Geraldton 966St Kilda 479

koalas 61, 190, 1046-7, 539Koorie Heritage Trust 467

1090

IND

EX K- M

Kosciuszko National Park 243-5

Kunanyi (Mt Wellington) 635-7

Kununurra 1014-16Kuranda 422-4Kyneton 580-1Kynuna 455

LLady Elliot Island 362-3,

410Lady Musgrave Island 363lakes

Albert Park Lake 475Blue Lake 774Lake Ballard 1020Lake Burley Griffin 257Lake Cooroibah 339Lake Cootharaba 339-40Lake Macquarie 146Lake Mountain 522-4Lake Mungo 214Lake Pedder 711Little Blue Lake 773Tinaroo 426

Lakes Entrance 592-6Lalor, Peter 574Lancelin 930-1landscapes 28language 22Larapinta Trail 865Lasseter Highway 51, 870Launceston 677-83, 678,

680, 685Laura 443-4, 787-8legal matters 1065-6Legana 684-5Lennox Head 178Leura 139-40LGBTIQ+ festivals

Brisbane Pride Festival 281

Melt 283Sydney Gay & Lesbian

Mardi Gras 101Tropical Fruits 189

LGBTIQ+ travellers 1066Brisbane 297Melbourne 502Perth 909Sydney 29, 128

librariesNational Library of

Australia 258

State Library of NSW 80lighthouses

Barrenjoey Lighthouse 89-90

Cape Bruny Lighthouse 652

Cape Byron Lighthouse 179

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse 947

Cape Nelson Lighthouse 567

Cape Otway Lightstation 556, 18

Cape Schanck Lighthouse 528

Cape Willoughby Lightstation 752

Gabo Island Lighthouse 600

Green Cape Lightstation 238

Point Hicks Lighthouse 601

Split Point Lighthouse 549

Tacking Point Lighthouse 163

Vlamingh Head Lighthouse 985

Wadjemup Lighthouse 914

Wilsons Promontory Lighthouse 590

Lightning Ridge 199-200Lightning Ridge Bore

Baths 199Lillico Beach 698Limestone Coast 771-6Lincoln National Park 782Lindeman Island 378Lismore 189-90Litchfield National Park

821-3literary festivals

Bellingen Readers & Writers Festival 168

Brisbane Writers Festival 283

Byron Bay Writers’ Festival 183

Sydney Writers’ Festival 102

Lizard Island 438lizards 1048Lobethal 739Loch Ard Gorge 560lockout laws 127Logan’s Beach 562Lombadina 1005London Bridge 560Long Island 381

Longford 688-9Longreach 457-8Lord Howe Island 216Lorella Springs 846Lorne 551-3Low Head 687-8Loxton 768-9luxury resorts 1061-2

MMacDonnell Ranges 862-7Mackay 369-73, 372Macquarie, Lachlan 1025Magnetic Island 389-91Main Beach 316-18Malanda 425Maldon 582Maleny 340Mallacoota 599-601Mallee 619Mamu Tropical Skywalk

398Mandalay, the 951Mandu Mandu Gorge 989Mandurah 924-6Manjimup 948-9Manly Beach 88-9Mannum 766-7Mansfield 604-5Mapleton 340maps 1066Maralinga Atomic Bomb

Test Site 786Marble Bar 992Mareeba 424Maremma Project 563Margaret River 15, 942-5,

938, 943, 15Maria Island National Park

665-7marijuana 191marine turtles 351, 985,

410markets 187

Adelaide Farmers Market 732

Atherton Tablelands 424Bangalow Market 188Barossa Farmers Market

762Bollywood Beach Bazaar

173Brisbane Riverside

Markets 302Castlemaine Mill 581Central Market

(Adelaide) 716-17Collective Markets South

Bank 302Darwin 813

Eumundi 341farmers markets 1050Farm Gate Market 647-8Figtree Creek Markets

366Finders Keepers Markets

302Fremantle Markets

889, 4Harvest 683Kangaroo Island Farmers

Market 751-2Kuranda Original

Rainforest Markets 422

Malak Marketplace 813Mindil Beach Sunset

Market 813, 804Nightcliff Market 813northern NSW 187Prahran Market 478Queen Victoria Market

463, 514Rapid Creek Market 813Riverland Farmers

Market 769Rose Street Artists’

Market 510Salamanca Market

635, 648South Melbourne Market

475Stirling Markets 739-40St Kilda Esplanade

Market 511-16Sydney Fish Market 83Village Markets 319Willunga Farmers Market

742Young Designers Market

302Maroochydore 334-7Marrawah 701Marrickville 123Mary River 819-20Maryborough 349Marysville 522-4massage

Brisbane 280Byron Bay 182

Mataranka 843, 844-5Maydena 712McKinlay 455McLaren Vale 740-2, 27measures 1060Melbourne 14, 463-516,

468-9, 472-3, 476-7, 480, 495, 504, 517, 14, 514-15

accommodation 482-7activities 479

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1091IN

DEX M

children, travel with 38drinking & nightlife

499-506entertainment 506-9festivals & events 482food 487-99information 511itineraries 479shopping 509-11sights 463tours 481-2travel to/from 511-12travel within 512-18walking tours 489, 489

Melbourne Cricket Ground 470

Melbourne Cup 482Melrose 789-96Melville Island 815memorials & monuments

Anzac Memorial (Sydney) 81

Australian War Memorial 256

Big Rocking Horse 739Bon Scott Statue 889Childers Palace

Memorial & Art Gallery 350

Dinosaur Stampede National Monument 456

Dog on the Tuckerbox 246

Frenchman’s Rock 751HMAS Sydney II

Memorial 965Larry the Lobster 773Obelisk 771POW Campsite & Guard

Tower 204Shrine of Remembrance

475-7Meningie 773-4meningococcal disease

1065Menzies, Robert 1020,

1033Mereenie Loop Road

49, 866Merimbula 234-6Mermaid Beach 318-19Mersey Bluff 691Milawa Gourmet Region

606Mildura 619-24, 622Millaa Millaa 425Millthorpe 204Milton 227-8Mindil Beach Sunset

Market 813, 804

mines & mine toursBattery Hill Mining

Centre 849Central Deborah Gold

Mine 578Day Dream Mine 210Hannans North Tourist

Mine 1018Karrs Reef Goldmine 609Opal Mine Adventure 199

Mintaro 764Mission Beach 394-8Mittagong 239-41mobile phones 22, 1068Moggs Creek 549Mole Creek 695-7Mollymook 227-9MONA 15, 635, 15money 22-3, 1066-7Monkey Mia 974-6monotremes 1048Mon Repos 351Montville 340monuments, see memorials

& monumentsMooloolaba 334-7Moonta 778-9Moree 198-9Moreton Island 307-8‘morning glory’ clouds 450Mornington Peninsula

527-32Morrison’s Huon Pine

Sawmill 708Moruya 231Mossman 432Mossman Gorge 432motels 1062motor racing

Australian Formula 1 Grand Prix 482

Australian Motorcycle Grand Prix 534

Phillip Island Circuit 533-4

motorcycle toursUluru-Kata Tjuta

National Park 876motorcycle travel 1073-8,

see also car travelmountain biking 675

Adelaide Hills 735Alice Springs 856Atherton 425Blue Mountains 138Cairns 403Derby 675Forrest 555Jindabyne 242Margaret River 943

Maydena 675Maydena Bike Park 712Melrose 789Mt Buller 605-6Mt Hotham & Dinner

Plain 617-19Mt Wellington Descent

637Thredbo 244

mountain climbingCradle Mountain Summit

704Mt Gillen 857Mt Kosciuszko 245Pigeon House Mountain

(Didthul) 228Strzelecki Peaks 676

Mount Gambier 774-6Mt Arapiles State Park 588Mt Beauty 615-16Mt Buller 605-6Mt Field National Park

650-2Mt Gillen 857Mt Gower 216Mt Hotham 617-19Mt Hypipamee 425Mt Isa 452-5, 453Mt Kosciuszko 243-5Mt Lofty 738Mt Panorama 200Mt Remarkable National

Park 789Mt Spec 394Mt Victoria 145Mt Wellington

635-7Mudgee 206-9Mundaring Weir 926Mungalla Station 391Mungo National Park

214-15Murphy’s Haystacks 785Murray Bridge 765-6Murray River 619-27, 765-

71, 620-1museums 38, 717, see

also art galleries, historic sites & buildings

Abbey Museum 331Agnes Water Museum

358Albury Library Museum

246-51Australian Age of

Dinosaurs Museum 456

Australian Armour & Artillery Museum 402-3

Australian Centre for the Moving Image 466

Australian Fossil & Mineral Museum 200

Australian Museum (Sydney) 83

Australian National Maritime Museum 82-3

Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame & Outback Heritage Centre 457

Australian War Memorial 256

Australian Workers Heritage Centre 459

Axel Stenross Maritime Museum 782-3

Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre 209

Bass & Flinders Centre 687

Bass Strait Maritime Centre 690

Bendigo Pottery 577Bicheno Motorcycle

Museum 671Bligh Museum of Pacific

Exploration 653Blue Mountains Cultural

Centre 142Bond Store Museum 349Broome Museum 999Buku Larrnggay Mulka

Art Centre & Museum 836

Bunbury Museum & Heritage Centre 935

Burke Museum 607Burnie Regional Museum

698Caboolture Warplane

Museum 331Cairns Museum 402Canberra 18Canberra Museum & Art

Gallery 257Cape Otway Lightstation

556Carnarvon Space &

Technology Museum 976

Cobb & Co Museum 308-9

Comet Gold Mine Museum 992

Commissariat Store Museum 276

Country Music Hall of Fame 193

Court House Museum 427

1092

IND

EX M

museums continuedDarwin Military Museum

802Diamantina Heritage

Truck & Machinery Museum 456-7

Dunera Museum 251East Coast Heritage

Museum 668Esperance Museum

962-3Eureka Centre 571Flagstaff Hill Maritime

Village 561-2Fraser Coast Cultural

Centre 342Furneaux Museum 676Golden Dragon Museum

& Gardens 577Great Aussie Beer Shed

624Great Ocean Road

Story 551Gympie Gold Mining &

Historical Museum 349

Heide Museum of Modern Art 484

Hemp Embassy 191Hyde Park Barracks

Museum 80-1International Cricket Hall

of Fame 239James Cook Museum

438Jervis Bay Maritime

Museum 225-6Jewish Museum of

Australia 479John Flynn Place 452Justice & Police Museum

78-9Kiewa Valley Historical

Museum 615Killer Whale Museum

237Leuralla NSW Toy &

Railway Museum 140Low Head Maritime

Museum 687Mad Max 2 Museum 213Makers’ Workshop 698-9Mallacoota Bunker

Museum 599Mandurah Museum 924Mannum Dock Museum

of River History 766

Mareeba Heritage Museum & Visitor Information Centre 424

Mary MacKillop Interpretive Centre 776

Mawson’s Huts Replica Museum 634

Melbourne Museum 474-5

Meroogal 224Military & Colonial

Museum 349MONA 15, 635, 15Moonta Mines Museum

778-9Moreton Telegraph

Station 444Museum & Art Gallery of

the Northern Territory 801-2

Museum of Australian Democracy 256

Museum of Brisbane 273Museum of Central

Australia 853Museum of Sydney 81Museum of the

Goldfields 1018Museum of the Great

Southern 956-7Museum of the Riverina

247-8Museum of Tropical

Queensland 385National Anzac Centre

(Albany) 956National Capital

Exhibition 257National Holden Museum

624National Motor Museum

739National Motor Racing

Museum 200National Museum of

Australia 256, 18National Wool Museum

537-40Ned Kelly Vault 607New England Regional

Art Museum 195New Norcia Museum &

Art Gallery 929Newcastle Museum 155NGV International 467,

514Ningaloo Interpretation

Centre 982Nostalgia Box 887NSW Corrective Services

Museum 241

Old Timers Mine 794-5Old Treasury Building

467Orange Regional

Museum 202Outback at Isa 454Phoenix Museum 522Pioneer Village Museum

222-3Pooseum 650Port Macquarie

Historical Museum 163Port of Echuca Discovery

Centre 624Portland Maritime

Discovery Centre 567-8

Powerstation Museum 193

Qantas Founders Outback Museum 457

Queen Victoria Museum 679

Queenscliff Maritime Museum 543

Queensland Cultural Centre 276

Queensland Museum & Sciencentre 276

Questacon 256Reef Teach 401Residency Museum 929Rocks Discovery

Museum 77Rottnest Museum 914Roundhouse Railway

Museum 248Roxy Theatre Greek

Museum 195Royal Australian Mint

258Royal Flying Doctor

Service 801Royal Flying Doctor

Service Base 853Royal Flying Doctor

Service Museum 210School of the Air 853-6Scitech 887Shark Bay World

Heritage Discovery Centre 973

Shear Outback 251Silverton Gaol &

Historical Museum 213Sir Henry Parkes

Memorial School of Arts 197

Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre 242

South Australian Maritime Museum 720

South Australian Whale Centre 745

Stansbury Museum 779Steamtown Heritage Rail

Centre 788-9St Helens History Room

673Susannah Place Museum

78Sydney Jewish Museum

83Tasmanian Museum &

Art Gallery 634Torres Strait Heritage

Museum 446Trial Bay Gaol 167Umoona Opal Mine &

Museum 795Underground Hospital

454WA Shipwrecks Museum

889Wallaroo Heritage &

Nautical Museum 778Waltzing Matilda Centre

455Western Australian

Museum – Geraldton 965

Western Australian Museum – Maritime 889

Western Australian Museum – Perth 888

Willunga Slate Museum 742

Woodworks Museum 349

Yackandandah Museum 609

musicAboriginal 1039, 1040

music festivalsAirlie Beach Festival of

Music 374Alice Desert Festival 858Australian Festival of

Chamber Music 386Bello Winter Music 168Big Pineapple Music

Festival 335Bigsound Festival 281Byron Bay Bluesfest 183Canberra International

Music Festival 259CMC Rocks Queensland

281Deniliquin Ute Muster

250Falls Festival (NSW) 183Falls Festival (Tas)

659-60Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1093IN

DEX M

- NFalls Festival (Vic) 551Festival of Voice (WA)

954Festival of Voices (Tas)

639Gympie Music Muster

349Laneway Festival 892-3National Folk Festival

259Port Fairy Folk Festival

565Queenscliff Music

Festival 545Splendour in the Grass

183St Jerome’s Laneway

Festival 482Tamworth Country Music

Festival 193-4WOMADelaide 30, 724

Muttonbird Island 170Myall Lakes National Park

161-2Myella Farm Stay 365Myponga 743Mystery Bay 233

NNamatjira Dr 864-5Naracoorte Caves National

Park 775Narooma 231-3Nathan River Road 51National Gallery of

Australia 254National Museum of

Australia 256, 18national parks & nature

reserves 1048Arakoon National Park

167Bald Rock National

Park 197Ben Boyd National Park

238-9Ben Lomond National

Park 689-90Berry Springs Nature

Park 820Big Brook Arboretum

949Blackdown Tableland

National Park 369Bladensburg National

Park 451Booderee National

Park 225Boodjamulla National

Park 450-1Border Ranges National

Park 192

Bouddi National Park 146-7

Brisbane Water National Park 147

Bundjalung National Park 175

Burleigh Head National Park 319

Byfield National Park 366

Cape Arid National Park 964

Cape Byron State Conservation Park 179

Cape Conran Coastal Park 598-9

Cape Le Grand National Park 964

Cape Range National Park 988-9

Caranbirini Conservation Reserve 847

Carnarvon National Park 368-9

Cathedral Rock National Park 168

Chiltern-Mt Pilot National Park 607

Coffin Bay National Park 784-5

Conway National Park 374

Corroboree Rock Conservation Reserve 863

Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park 17, 704-7, 17, 56

Crater Lakes National Park 426-7

Croajingolong National Park 601

Crowdy Bay National Park 163

D’Aguilar National Park 299

Dampier Archipelago 991Dandenong Ranges

National Park 516Deepwater National

Park 359Devonian Reef National

Parks 1007-8Diamantina National

Park 451Dirk Hartog Island

National Park 973Dooragan National

Park 163Dorrigo National Park

168El Questro Wilderness

Park 1011

Elsey National Park 844

Emily & Jessie Gaps Nature Park 863

Errinundra National Park 597-8

Eungella National Park 382-3

Eurimbula National Park 359

Finke Gorge National Park 866-7

Fitzgerald River National Park 961

Flinders Chase National Park 756-9

Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve 818

Forest Discovery Centre 923

Francois Peron National Park 975

Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park 710-11

Freycinet National Park 669-71

Garig Gunak Barlu National Park 836

Geikie Gorge 1008Granite Gorge Nature

Park 424Great Australian Bight

Commonwealth Marine Reserve 787

Great Sandy National Park 338-9

Guy Fawkes River National Park 168

Hartz Mountains National Park 657

Hat Head National Park 166-7

Hell Hole Gorge National Park 451

Hepburn Mineral Springs Reserve 524

Idalia National Park 451Ikara-Flinders Ranges

National Park 791-2Illawarra Escarpment

State Conservation Area 217

Innes National Park 780-1

Jervis Bay National Park 226

Judbarra/Gregory National Park 842

Kakadu National Park 17, 824-33, 825, 17, 27

Kalbarri National Park 971-2

Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park 795

Karijini National Park 993-5, 993

Kelly Hill Conservation Park 755

Kings Canyon & Watarrka National Park 870-2, 871, 831

Kosciuszko National Park 243-5

Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park 91

Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park 445

Lamington National Park 323-4

Lane Cove National Park 91

Leliyn 841Lesueur National Park

932Lincoln National Park

782Litchfield National

Park 821Living Desert State

Park 210Lochern National Park

451Lower Glenelg National

Park 570Maria Island National

Park 665-7Mariala National Park

451Millstream Chichester

National Park 991Minnamurra Rainforest

Centre 220Montague Island

(Barranguba) 231Mornington Peninsula

National Park 528Morton National Park

240Mt Ainslie 258Mt Augustus National

Park 976Mt Canobolas 202Mt Coot-tha Reserve

277Mt Field National Park

650-2Mt Remarkable National

Park 789Mt William National

Park 674Munga-Thirri National

Park 451Mungo National Park

214-15

1094

IND

EX N-O

national parks & nature reserves continued

Murramarang National Park 228

Murujuga National Park 990-1

Mutawintji National Park 211-12

Myall Lakes National Park 161

Namadgi National Park 271

Nambung National Park 931

Naracoorte Caves National Park 775

Narawntapu National Park 694

Naree Budjong Djara National Park 305

N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park 862-3

Nightcap National Park 192

Ningaloo Marine Park 16, 986-8

Nitmiluk National Park 840-2, 20

Noosa National Park 326North Gorge Walk 305North Head 87-8Olive Pink Botanic

Garden 853outback Queensland 451Oxley Wild Rivers

National Park 168Paluma Range National

Park 394Panboola 234-5Point Nepean National

Park 527-8Porcupine Gorge

National Park 452Porongurup National

Park 960-1, 960Port Campbell National

Park 559-61Rainbow Valley

Conservation Reserve 868-70

Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park 443

Rocky Cape National Park 702

Royal National Park 136-7

Ruby Gap Nature Park 863

Sea Acres Rainforest Centre 163

Seal Bay Conservation Par 754

Shoalwater Islands Marine Park 922

Snowy River National Park 596-7

South Bruny National Park 652

South Head 86-7Southwest National Park

711-12Springbrook National

Park 324Stirling Range National

Park 961-2, 962-3Sturt National Park

215-16Tamborine National

Park 323Tarkine Wilderness 702-3Tasman National Park

661-3The Neck 652Tidbinbilla Nature

Reserve 271Tomaree National Park

159Trephina Gorge Nature

Park 862Troubridge Island

Conservation Park 779Tuart Forest National

Park 936Tunnel Creek 1008Tyto Wetlands 391Uluru-Kata Tjuta

National Park 12, 872-80, 12, 830

Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park 823

Undara Volcanic National Park 447

Valley of the Giants 951Walls of Jerusalem

National Park 697Walpole-Nornalup

National Park 951Warrumbungle National

Park 198Welford National Park

451Wentworth Falls Reserve

139William Bay National

Park 954Windjana Gorge 1008Wollumbin National

Park 192Wooroonooran National

Park 399

Worimi Conservation Lands 159, 160

Yuraygir National Park 173

National Portrait Gallery 254

nature reserves, see national parks & nature reserves

netball 1056New England 193-7New Norcia 929-30New South Wales 62, 68-

251, 70-1, 137accommodation 68children, travel with 38climate 68food 68highlights 70-1newspapers 1060travel seasons 68weather 68

Newcastle 153-8, 154NGV International 467, 514Nimbin 190-3Ninety Mile Beach 597Ningaloo Coast 978-95,

980-1Ningaloo Marine Park 16,

986-8, 978, 16Nitmiluk National Park

840-2, 20Noosa 326-31, 327, 36, 62Noosa Everglades 339Normanton 448Normanville 744Nornalup 951-3Northam 928North Coast Road 754Northern Territory 65, 797-

880, 798-9accommodation 797children, travel with 38climate 797food 797highlights 798-9travel seasons 797weather 797websites 820

North Stradbroke Island 305-7

notable buildings 91Abercrombie House

200Australian Parliament

House 254Bell Tower 885Boyd’s Tower 238Bridgedale House 948City Hall (Brisbane) 273

Elizabeth Bay House 83-5

Elizabeth Farm 91Experiment Farm

Cottage 90-1Lanyon Homestead 271Main Beach Pavilion 316Old Government House

91, 273Parliament House

(Brisbane) 273Q Station 89Royal Theatre (Mt Isa)

456Sir Henry Parkes

Memorial School of Arts 197

Sun Pictures 998Sydney Opera House 72Sydney Tower Eye 80Vaucluse House 86

Nourlangie 829-32Nowra 224-5Nundroo 786Nuriootpa 760-1

OOatlands 663-4observatories, see also

planetariumsAntarctic Journey 532Cosmos Centre 459CSIRO Parkes

Observatory 207Dubbo Observatory 205Mudgee Observatory

206Perth Observatory 926

Old South Rd 867-8Olgas, The 874Oodnadatta Track 19, 49,

793, 19Opal cards 135opals 199, 795opening hours 1067Orange 201-3orcas 979Orpheus Island 392Otway Fly 554, 539outback 19, 47-53, 792-6,

52-3, 19, 830-1New South Wales 208-16permits 1018Queensland 451-61routes 1018Western Australia

1017-20outback driving 47-53,

793-4, 1018Overland Track 705

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1095IN

DEX P

- RPpaddlesteamers 621,

626, 767Palm Beach 321Palm Cove 419-21Parachilna 792paragliding 347Parap Village 811Paringa 769-71Parkes 207parks & gardens

Adelaide Botanic Gardens 717

Albany Heritage Park 957

Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden 781-2

Australian National Botanic Gardens 256-7

Ballarat Botanic Gardens 571

Barangaroo Reserve 79Bicentennial Park 800Blue Mountains Botanic

Garden Mount Tomah 142

Botanic Gardens (Rockhampton) 363

Brisbane Botanic Gardens 277

Cairns Botanic Gardens 401

Centennial Park 85Chinese Garden of

Friendship 83City Botanic Gardens

(Brisbane) 273Cooktown Botanic

Gardens 438Cowra Japanese Garden

& Cultural Centre Australia 204

Djanbung Gardens 191Dubbo Regional Botanic

Garden 205Fitzroy Gardens 470-1Foxglove Gardens 233Geelong Botanic

Gardens 537George Brown Botanic

Gardens 800Hyde Park 81Ju Raku En Japanese

Garden 309Kershaw Gardens 364Kings Park & Botanic

Garden 885-7Mackay Regional

Botanical Gardens 371Mrs Macquaries Point 79Mt Gibraltar Reserve

239-40

Mt Lofty Botanic Garden 738

National Arboretum 258Paronella Park 398Queens Gardens 385Rainforestation 422Rosalind Park 578Royal Botanic Gardens

(Melbourne) 475Royal Botanic Gardens

(Sydney) 69-77Royal Tasmanian

Botanical Gardens 635South Bank Parklands

276St Kilda Botanical

Gardens 479Telegraph Station 853Whiteman Park 920William Ricketts

Sanctuary 516Wollongong Botanic

Garden 217Parliament House

(Melbourne) 466parrots 1045Pemberton 949-51Pender Bay 1004Penfolds 759Penguin 697-8penguins 61, 532, 559, 563,

698, 699Penneshaw 751-2Penola 776Penong 786Peregian Beach 337-8permits 49

Arnhem Land 835Cape York Peninsula 442Fraser Island 357Kalumburu 1011outback Western

Australia 1018Perth 884-913, 886-7,

892-3, 898-9, 902, 915, 64

accommodation 881, 895-8

activities 890children, travel with

38, 897drinking & nightlife

904-8entertainment 908-10festivals & events 891-4food 881, 899-904history 884-5information 911itineraries 891LGBTIQ+ travellers 909shopping 910-11

sights 885-9tours 890-1travel to/from 911-12travel within 912-13

Perth Hills 926-7Phar Lap 1034Phillip, Arthur 1023-5Phillip Island 532-6, 533Picnic Bay 389Pieman River 703Pilbara 978-95, 980-1Pimba 793Pine Creek 823-4Pinnacles Desert 21, 931,

21, 36planetariums 277planning

Australia basics 22Australia’s regions 62-6budgeting 23, 37calendar of events 29-32internet resources 23itineraries 33-6, 33,

34, 35repeat visitors 24-5travel seasons 22

plants 1044-8platypus 61, 1048Plenty & Sandover

Hwys 51Point Addis 548Point Hicks Lighthouse 601population 25Porongurup National Park

960, 960Port Adelaide 720Port Arthur 661-3Port Augusta 781-2Port Campbell 557-9Port Campbell National

Park 559-61Port Douglas 427-32, 428,

406Port Elliot 746-7Port Fairy 564-7, 539Port Hedland 991-3Port Lincoln 782-4Port Macquarie 162-6,

164-5Port Pirie 787Port Stephens 159-61Port Vincent 779Portland 567-9postal services 1067public holidays 1067-8pubs 124, 1053, 1062Puffing Billy 517Purnululu National Park

1016-17, 1016

Qquarantine rules 1066Queen Victoria Market

463, 514Queenscliff 543-85Queensland 63, 272-461,

274-5, 306accommodation 272children, travel with 38climate 272food 272highlights 274-5travel seasons 272weather 272

Queensland Cultural Centre 276

Queenstown 707-8Quobba Coast 977-8quokkas 914, 917Quorn 789-90

Rradio 1060rafting, see white-water

raftingrail tours

Cairns 411rail travel, see train travelRainbow Beach 347-9Rapid Bay 744Ratho Farm 664Ravenswood 386Raymond Island 598Recherche Bay 660red centre, see outbackRed Centre Way 866Red Hill 530-43red-tailed tropicbirds

941religious sites

Great Stupa of Universal Compassion 578

Renmark 769-71reptiles 1048responsible tourism 55,

979Richmond 452, 649-50Riverina 246-51rivers

Murray River 619-27, 765-71, 620-1

road trains 48roadhouses 49, 851Robe 771-3rock art 1037-8, 17

Kakadu National Park 824

Nourlangie 832Ubirr 827

1096

IND

EX R- S

rock climbing & abseilingBlue Mountains 138Brisbane 280Cairns 403, 411Grampians 585indoor 639, 890Kalbarri 969Margaret River 942Mt Arapiles State Park

588Perth 890Tasmania 632

Rockhampton 363-5Rockingham 922-3Rocky Cape National

Park 702Roper Highway 846Rosevears 684-5Ross 664-5Ross River fever 1065Rottnest Island

(Wadjemup) 913-20, 918

Royal National Park 136-7Rudd, Kevin 1035rugby 1055Rutherglen 610-13

Ssafety 1058-9, 1064, 1068

beaches 801bushwalking 55car travel 50crocodiles 801cyclones 377dingoes 356

sailingWhitsunday Islands 380

Salamanca Place 635Sapphire Coast 234-9Savannahlander 448Savannah Way 446Sawtell 174scenic drives

Cape Bauer Loop Scenic Drive 785

Coorong Scenic Drive 773

Danbulla Forest Drive 426

Fossickers Way 195Great Forest Trees Drive

949Great Ocean Drive 963Great Ocean Road

536-70

Karratha 989Mungo Track 214-15Silo Art Trail 589Tweed Range Scenic

Drive 192Waterfall Way 168Whalers Way 783

scenic flightsArmidale 195Broome 1001Cairns 411Carpentaria Hwy 846-7Derby 1006Exmouth 983-4Fraser Island 342-3Halls Creek 1013Hobart 638Kakadu National Park

826Kalbarri 969Kings Canyon &

Watarrka National Park 871-2

Kununurra 1015Litchfield National Park

822Nitmiluk National Park

841Par Avion 712Shark Bay 973Sydney 101Twelve Apostles 561Uluru-Kata Tjuta

National Park 876Whitsunday Islands 379

scenic railways, see also cable cars

Blues Train 546Goldfields Railway 581Gulflander, the 448Hotham Valley Railway

923Kuranda Scenic Railway

403Pemberton Tramway

949-50Puffing Billy 517Savannahlander, the

448West Coast Wilderness

Railway 707scenic views,

see viewpointsSchoolies Week 316sea travel 1071-2seasonal work 1070Second Valley 744Seisia 445Seppeltsfield Road 760-1Shark Bay 972-6

sharks 1048, 1059Sheffield 694-5Shipwreck Coast 558Sikh temples 173silo art

Northam Silo Art 928Silo Art Trail 589

Silverton 213Simpson Desert 51Simpsons Gap 864skiing 56-7

Ben Lomond 690Dinner Plains 617-19Falls Creek 616-17Jindabyne 243Lake Mountain 522Mt Buller 605-6Mt Hotham 617-19Thredbo 244

skydivingAirlie Beach 373Brisbane 280Cairns 403-4Coolum 337Hervey Bay 343Perth 890Rainbow Beach 347Rottnest Island 916Townsville 386Tully 395York 929

smoking 1060snakes 1048, 1059snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsnowboarding 56-7, 57,

see also skiingSnowy Mountains 241-5Snowy River National Park

596-7soccer 1055solitary destinations 28South Australia 65, 713-96,

714-15accommodation 713children, travel with 38climate 713food 713highlights 714-15

South Coast Road 754-6South Stradbroke Island

323South West Rocks 167-8southern right whales 60Southport 658-9Southwest National Park

711-12Sovereign Hill 571Spaceship sculpture 795

spasBurleigh Heads 320Byron Bay 180, 181Hepburn Springs 524Peninsula Hot Springs

528spiders 1059Spit, the 316-18Split Point Lighthouse 549sport 1054-6

Adelaide 731-2Sydney 131

sporting eventsAFL Grand Final 482Alice Springs Cup

Carnival 858Australian Formula 1

Grand Prix 482Australian Motorcycle

Grand Prix 534Australian Open 482Bathurst 1000 201Big Bash 101Birdsville Cup 461Brisbane International

281Camel Cup 857Finke Desert Race 858Kalgoorlie-Boulder ‘Race

Round’ 1019Margaret River Pro 933Melbourne Cup 482Sydney to Hobart Yacht

Race 102Tiwi Grand Final &

Annual Art Sale 817Uluru Camel Cup 877

sporting venuesAdelaide Oval 718-19Blundstone Arena

(Hobart) 647Melbourne Cricket

Ground 470Sydney Cricket Ground

131York Park (Launceston)

682SS Yongala wreck 390St Helens 672-3Standley Chasm 864stand-up paddleboarding

Cairns 404Coffs Harbour 172Margaret River 942Mooloolaba 335St Kilda 479Sydney 92

Stanley 700-1Stansbury 779-89Stanthorpe 310-14

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1097IN

DEX S

- Tstargazing 212, see

also observatories, planetariums

Uluru 877Stirling 738-9Stirling Range National

Park 961-2, 962-3STIs 1065Stokes Bay 754Stolen Generations 1032storytelling 1038Strahan 708-10Strathgordon 711Streaky Bay 785-6street art 14, 514

Brisbane Street Art Festival 281

Hosier Lane 463Melbourne tours 481

street food 291Strzelecki Track 49-51, 794Stuart Highway 48, 51, 851Sturt, Charles 1028Sunshine Coast 324-41,

325Sunshine Coast Hinterland

340-1Surfers Paradise 314-16,

315surfing 57-8, 1055-6, 95

Agnes Water 358Anglesea 548Angourie 175Apollo Bay 554Australian National

Surfing Museum 546Batemans Bay 230Bells Beach 548Byron Bay 181, 182Cactus Beach 787Coffs Harbour 170-1Coolum 337Denmark 954Gold Coast 320Jan Juc 548Lorne 551Merimbula 235Mornington Peninsula

531-2Newcastle 159Noosa 326North Stradbroke Island

305-6Perth 890Phillip Island 534Port Elliot 747Port Macquarie 163Rainbow Beach 347Robe 772

Surfers Paradise 314Sydney 97Torquay 546-8Wollongong 218Yallingup 941

Swan Valley 920-2Swan Reach 766Swansea 668-9swimming 97, 479-81,

1056, 93Bondi Icebergs 97, 94

Sydney 13, 69-135, 93-6, 74-5, 76-7, 80-1, 84, 88, 90, 92, 108, 111, 114, 120-1, 137, 13, 73, 75, 93

accommodation 68, 102-10, 104-5

activities 91-8children, travel with 38drinking & nightlife

123-9entertainment 129-32festivals & events 101-2food 68, 110-22history 69information 134-5itineraries 87LGBTIQ+ travellers 128safety 134shopping 132-4sights 69-91sports 131tours 98-101travel to/from 135travel within 135walking tours 98-9,

100-1, 99websites 130

Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras 29

Sydney Harbour Bridge 73, 73

Sydney Observatory 77Sydney Opera House 72,

130, 72

TTable Cape Tulip Farm 699Tablelands Hwy 846-7tall trees

Four Aces 948-9Gloucester Tree 949Valley of the Giants 951

Tamar Valley 684-8Tamarama 97-8, 95Tamborine Mountain 323Tamworth 193-4Tanami Road 51, 851-2

Tandanya National Aboriginal Cultural Institute 721

Tanunda 759-60tap water 1065Taranna 661Tarkine Wilderness 702-3Tasman National Park

661-3Tasman Peninsula 658-63,

659Tasmania 64, 628-712,

630-1, 653, 666, 692-3

accommodation 628children, travel with 38climate 628festivals & events 632food 628highlights 630-1history 629-32information 632tours 632travel to/from 632travel within 633-4wildlife 60

taxes 1067telephone services 22,

1068television 1060tennis 1056

Australian Open 482tented camps 1062Tenterfield 196-7termite mounds 822Terrigal 146Tessellated Pavement 660The Farm 179‘The Man From Snowy

River’ 242Thevenard 786Thredbo 244, 57Three Sisters 142Thursday Island 445-6Tibooburra 215-16tick typhus 1065Tidal River 589-90Timber Creek 843-4Timboon 560time 22, 214, 1068tipping 1051, 1067Tiwi Islands 815-17toilets 1068Toowoomba 308-10Torquay 546tourist information 1069tours, see also 4WD tours

Adelaide 723Airlie Beach 374

Albany 957-8Alice Springs 856-7Arnhem Highway 818Arnhem Land 834Ballina 176Barossa Valley 757Blue Mountains 138-9Brisbane 280-1Broken Hill 212Broome 999Bunbury 935Byron Bay 182Cairns 411-12Canberra 258Cape Tribulation 435Cape York Peninsula

439-42Central Coast NSW 146-7Cervantes 931Coffs Harbour 170-2Coober Pedy 796Darwin 803-6Denham 973Derby 1006Eden 237Esperance 963Exmouth 982-4Eyre Peninsula 780Geraldton 967Great Barrier Reef 411-12Hervey Bay 342-3Hobart 637-9Hunter Valley 150Ikara-Flinders Ranges

National Park 791Jervis Bay 226Kakadu National Park

825-6Kalbarri 969-70Kangaroo Island 748-51Karijini National Park

994Kings Canyon &

Watarrka National Park 871-2

Margaret River 942Mary River 819McLaren Vale 740Merimbula 235Mildura 620-1Mooloolaba 335Mudgee 207Mungo National Park 215Narooma 232Noosa 326Orange 202Outback 49Pemberton 950Port Douglas 429

1098

IND

EX T- W

tours continuedPort Lincoln 783Port Stephens 159Rottnest Island 916Swan Valley 920Sydney 98-101Tiwi Islands 816-17Ulladulla 228Uluru-Kata Tjuta

National Park 875-6Walpole 951Whitsunday Islands 379Yulara 877

Tower Hill Reserve 564Town of 1770 358-62Townsville 383-9, 384,

407trains, see also road trainstrain travel 1078, 1073

Blues Train 546Ghan, the 21, 1078, 21Goldfields Railway 581Gulflander, the 448outback 48Puffing Billy 517Savannahlander, the 448West Coast Wilderness

Railway 707trams 577transport 1071-8transport cards 135travel to/from Australia

1071-2travel within Australia 23,

1072-8Tree of Knowledge 768tree climbing, see canopy

adventurestreetop walks, see canopy

adventuresTrial Bay 167Trinity Beach 419Tropfest 29Truffle & Wine Co 948Tully 393-4Turquoise Coast 930-3turtles 351, 985, 410Twelve Apostle 559, 538

UUbirr 827-8Ulladulla 227-9Uluru 48, 873-5, 873,

12, 830

Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park 12, 872-80, 12, 830

Unaipon, David (Ngarrindjeri) 1033

Undara 447Unesco World Heritage

SitesBudj Bim Cultural

Landscape 569Convict Sites 80, 86, 637,

661, 688, 889Daintree Rainforest

432-3Fraser Island 352-7Kakadu National Park

825-6Lamington National Park

(Woonoongoora) 323Lord Howe Island 216Purnululu National Park

1016-17, 1016Shark Bay 972-6Sydney Opera House 72Tasmanian Wilderness

710Uluru-Kata Tjuta

National Park 12, 872-80, 12, 830

Wet Tropics World Heritage Area 432-6

universitiesUniversity of Sydney 87

Uraidla 737uranium mining 1042-3urban scenes 62

Vvaccinations 1064Van Diemen’s Land 1025vegans 25, 1053vegemite 1053vegetarians 1053Victor Harbor 745-6Victoria 63, 462-627, 464-

5, 536-7accommodation 462children, travel with 38climate 462food 462highlights 464-5

Victoria Highway 48-9, 51Victoria River Crossing 841viewpoints

Bay of Islands Coastal Park 561

Cambewarra Lookout 223

Captain Cook Lookout 179-80

City Lookout (Mt Isa) 453Diamond Tree Lookout

949Echo Point 142Evans Lookout 144Gantheaume Point &

Dinosaur Prints 998Gardiner Point 701Grassy Hill Lookout 438Iron Blow Lookout 707Jemmy’s Point Lookout

594Laguna Lookout 326Marriners Lookout 554McMahons Point 86Mengler’s Hill Lookout

759Mt Brown Lookout 929Mt Lofty Summit 738Mt Parnassus Lookout

246Mundi Mundi Lookout

213Nobbies Centre 532-3Nobby’s Head 155-6Oxley Scenic Lookout

193Pylon Lookout 79Scenic World 142-3SkyPoint Observation

Deck 314Sublime Point 140Super Pit Lookout 1018Tacking Point Lighthouse

163Talinguru Nyakunytjaku

sunrise-viewing area 873

The Nut 700Trinity Bay Lookout 427Walu Wugirriga Lookout

433viral encephalitis 1065visas 22, 1069volunteering 1069

WWagga Wagga 247-9Waikerie 767-8walking

Adelaide 721Albury 247Byron Bay 180Hahndorf 736Magnetic Island 389Sydney 97-8, 100

walking toursAlice Springs 857Broome 999, 1001Darwin 803

Melbourne 481-2, 489, 489

Rottnest Island 916Sydney 98-9, 100-1, 99

Wallaroo 778Walls of China 214Walls of Jerusalem

National Park 697Walpole 951-3Walsh Bay 78Warrnambool 561-4Waterfall Bay 660Waterfall Way 168waterfalls

Bloomfield Falls 437Crystal Cascades 403Erskine Falls 551Fitzroy Falls 223Florence Falls 822Fruit Bat Falls 445Gunlom 833Horizontal Waterfalls

1007Jim Jim Falls 832Jourama Falls 394Liffey Falls 696Maguk 833Mannum Waterfalls 766Mitchell Falls 1009Protestor Falls 192Russell Falls 651Steavenson Falls 522Twin Falls 832Wallaman Falls 391Waterfall Way 168

Watsons Bay 86Wave Rock 925weather 22, 29-32, 47, 22websites 23, 25, 39, 56

activities 56, 58Northern Territory 820Sydney 130

weights 1060Weipa 444Wentworth Falls 139We of the Never Never 843West MacDonnell Ranges

864-7Western Australia 65,

881-1020, 882-3, 934, 952-3, 987

accommodation 881children, travel with 38climate 881food 881highlights 882-3travel seasons 881weather 881

Western Gibb 1009-10

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1099IN

DEX W

- Zwhale sharks 16, 979, 16whale watching 947

Dunsborough 937Eden 237Hervey Bay 342Kalbarri 970Merimbula 235Mooloolaba 335Warrnambool 562

whales 60, 346, 979, 1047white-water rafting

Cairns 411Franklin River 710Queenstown 707Tully River 395

Whitlam, Gough 1033-4Whitsunday Coast 369-83,

370Whitsunday Islands 13,

377-81, 13, 407, 408Wildflower Way 933wildlife 11, 26-7, 1044-8, 11,

46, 405, 408, 831Kakadu National Park

824Kangaroo Island 753West MacDonnell Ranges

864wildlife reserves &

sanctuaries, see also bird sanctuaries

Alice Springs Desert Park 852

Bat House 435BatReach 422-3Bellingen Island 168Billabong Sanctuary 385Bonorong Wildlife

Sanctuary 649-50Cairns Turtle

Rehabilitation Centre 418

Charleville Bilby Experience 459

Cleland Wildlife Park 738-9

Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary 321

David Fleay Wildlife Park 319

Devils@Cradle 704Dolphin Discovery

Centre 934Hamelin Pool 975Healesville Sanctuary

520Island Sanctuary 250Keatings Lagoon

Conservation Park 438Koala Care Centre

(Lismore) 190

Koala Hospital 163Les Wilson Barramundi

Discovery Centre 449Monkey Mia Marine

Reserve 975Mornington Wilderness

Camp 1010Natureworld 671-2Newhaven Wildlife

Sanctuary 852Penguin Parade 532Platypus House 685Pungalina-Seven Emu

Wildlife Sanctuary 848Tamworth Marsupial

Park 193Tangalooma Eco Centre

308Tasmanian Devil Unzoo

661Tolga Bat Hospital 424-5Trowunna Wildlife Park

696Window on the Wetlands

Visitor Centre 817wildlife watching 37, 59-61,

698, 699Cape Otway 557Daylesford 525Kakadu National Park

826Penneshaw Penguin

Centre 752Phillip Island 534Port Fairy 565Raymond Island 598Warrnambool 562

wildlife-watching toursAnglesea Golf Club

Kangaroo Tours 548Arnhem Highway 818Bunbury 935Byron Bay 182Cairns 403Devils in the Dark 672Kakadu National Park

826Mary River 819

Willunga 742-3Wilson Island 363Wilsons Promontory

National Park 21, 589-92, 593, 21

wine 1053National Wine Centre of

Australia 717-18wine festivals, see food &

wine festivalswine regions & wineries 25,

27-8, 1052, 16Adelaide Hills 736

Albany 959Barossa Valley 16, 757-

62, 16Barossa ValleyBellarine Peninsula 544Berry 221Brisbane 295Canberra district 268Clare Valley 762-5Coonawarra 776, 777d’Arenberg 741, 27Denmark 955Granite Belt 311Griffith 249Hunter Valley 148-50Margaret River 936, 937,

942-3, 945McLaren Vale 740-2, 27Mornington Peninsula

531Mudgee 206-7Nowra 224Orange 201-2Perth Hills 926Pipers River 686Porongurup National

Park 960Richmond 650Riesling Trail 762Rutherglen 611Swan Valley 920Tasmania’s east coast

670Waikerie 767Yarra Valley 518-22

Winton 455-7Wollongong 217-20, 218WOMADelaide 30, 724wombats 61, 1047women travellers 1069Woolgoolga 173Woolshed at Jondaryan

309Woomera 793-4Worimi people 160work 1069-70World Heritage–listed

sites, see Unesco World Heritage Sites

Wye River 553-4

YYackandandah 609-10Yallingup 940-2Yamba 174-6Yankalilla 743-4Yardie Creek Gorge 989Yarra Valley 518-22Yass 240

Yellow Water 832-3Yeppoon 366-7yoga

Byron Bay 180Palm Cove 419Sydney 97

York 928-9Yorke Peninsula 777-80,

781Yorkeys Knob 419Yulara 876-80, 878Yungaburra 426Yunupingu, Dr G 1039

Zziplining

Broken River 383Cairns 403, 411Cape Tribulation 435Launceston 688Live Wire Park 551

zoos 59Adelaide Zoo 720Alice Springs Reptile

Centre 853Australia Zoo 334Australian Butterfly

Sanctuary 422Australian Reptile

Park 147Cairns Zoom & Wildlife

Dome 403Crocosaurus Cove 800Hartley’s Crocodile

Adventures 421Healesville Sanctuary

520Koala Conservation

Centre 533Kuranda Koala Gardens

422Marineland Crocodile

Park 418Melbourne Zoo 475Monarto Zoo 765-6National Zoo & Aquarium

257-8Natureworld 671-2Perth Zoo 885Platypus House 685Potoroo Palace 235Taronga Western Plains

Zoo 205Taronga Zoo Sydney 86Territory Wildlife Park

820Wild Life Sydney Zoo 83 Wildlife Habitat Port

Douglas 427Wildlife HQ 334

1100

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Virginia MaxwellVictoria Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediterra-nean is her major area of interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for LP – but she also covers Finland, Bali, Armenia, the Netherlands, the US and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Kate MorganNew South Wales, Queensland Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Russia, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka, but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spend-

ing time at home working as a freelance editor.

Tasmin WabyWestern Australia A London-born writer with Kiwi whānau who grew up in Aus-tralia, Tasmin loves cartography, starry night skies, and getting off the beaten track. When not on the road for Lonely Planet she lives in a narrowboat and is planning her next adventure with her two school-aged kids. Tasmin also contrib-uted to the Plan and Understand sections of this guide.

Steve WatersWestern Australia Travel and adventure have always been Steve’s life, and he couldn’t imagine a world without them. He’s been using LP guidebooks for over 30 years in places as diverse as Iran, Central Asia, Kamchatka, Tuva, the Himalaya, Canada, Patagonia, the Australian Outback, NE Asia, Myanmar and the Sahara. Little wonder then that he finally got a gig with the company he was supporting! Steve has contributed to Iran, Indonesia and the past five editions of

West Coast Australia, and come any September you’re likely to find him in a remote gorge some-where in the Kimberley. Steve says, ‘Travel gives you a unique view of the world. Patience, accept-ance, resourcefulness and flexibility are all lessons well learnt. Plans change, where some people see obstacles, others see possibilities. Go with an open mind. But go!’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Paul HardingQueensland As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia.

Rachael HockingRachael is a Warlpiri woman with roots in the Tanami Desert of the Northern Territory. She has been a reporter and presenter for the country’s only national Indigenous TV channel since 2015, and currently co-hosts its flagship show, The Point. Her job has seen her travel to the annual Garma Festival in Arnhem Land and interview the first female mayor on Thursday Island. In her spare time she volunteers on an Aboriginal music show for community radio station 3RRR

in Melbourne. Rachael is an intersectional feminist who is passionate about Aboriginal women’s rights, language revival and social justice. Rachael contributed to the Plan and Understand sections of this guide.

Anita IsalskaNew South Wales Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter. After several merry years as a staff writer and editor – a few of them in Lonely Plan-et’s London office – Anita now works freelance between San Francisco, the UK and any Baltic bolthole with good wifi. Anita specialises in Eastern and Central Europe, Southeast Asia, France and off-beat travel. Read her stuff on www.anita isalska.com.

Anna KaminskiWestern Australia Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home. Having travelled on every single continent barring Antarctica, Anna has had her share of

memorable experiences, from seeing the sun rise from the top of Borneo’s Mt Kinabalu and Jamai-ca’s Blue Mountain peak and riding all day on horseback to visit the Tsaatan reindeer herders on the border between Mongolia and Russia, to spending the night in a Latvian Soviet-era prison and attending a Vodou ritual in Haiti.

Tatyana LeonovNew South Wales Born and bred in Sydney, when she’s not traversing the globe Tatyana enjoys exploring (and writing about) her home turf. She has written about her travel adventures for a diverse range of publications both in Australia and overseas and edits a magazine for families who love to travel. See www.tat-yanaleonov.com.au

Sofia LevinMelbourne Seasoned traveller and food journalist Sofia believes that eating in a country other than one’s own is the best way to understand a culture. It’s why she feels so lucky to call Melbourne home, where the city’s diversity allows her to eat all over the world without catching a flight. With Insta-famous toy poodle, @lifeofjinkee, on her lap, she writes for newspapers and travel magazines, acts as Lonely Planet’s Melbourne Local and co-authors international guidebooks – often

rewarding herself with regional Vietnamese noodle soups for dinner. Follow her culinary adventures or ask her where to eat via Instagram @sofiaklevin.

Hugh McNaughtanNew South Wales, Queensland A former lecturer and restaurant critic, Hugh is a native Melbournite with deep family roots in New South Wales and Queensland. Jumping behind the wheel (and up the gangplank) to explore New England and the Queensland coast, islands and hinterland from Fraser Island to the Whitsun-day was a dream assignment, made all the more memorable by the many kind-nesses he encountered.

Charles Rawlings-WayPerth, South Australia, Western Australia Charles Rawlings-Way is a veteran travel, food and music writer who has penned 40-something titles for Lonely Planet – including guides to Singapore, Toronto, Sydney, Tonga, New Zealand, the South Pacific and every state in Australia, including his native terrain of Tasmania and current homeland of South Australia – plus too many articles to recall. After dabbling in the dark arts of architecture, cartography, project management and

busking for some years, Charles hit the road for LP in 2005 and hasn’t stopped travelling since. ‘What’s in store for me in the direction I don’t take?’ (Kerouac). He’s also the author of a best- selling rock biography on Glasgow band Del Amitri, These Are Such Perfect Days. Follow Charles on the socials @crawlingsway and www.facebook.com/chasrwmusic. Charles also contributed to the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide sections.

Andy SymingtonSydney, New South Wales Andy has prowled the globe insatiably, speaks several languages and is passionate about human rights and international development issues. After studying archaeology and psychology, he worked in the navigation business and, for some time, in educational and community theatre before long travels through South America eventually saw him wind up in Edinburgh, selling whisky to the Scots. Andy first became involved in writing when someone cannily

contracted him to contribute to a pub guide, and his formidable research on that title broke a man but launched a career.

Brett AtkinsonNew South Wales Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but is frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer specialising in adventure travel, unusual destinations, and surprising angles on more well-known destinations. Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places, and he is featured regularly on the Lonely Planet website, and in newspa-pers, magazines and websites across New Zealand and Australia. Since becoming

a Lonely Planet author in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, New Zealand, Morocco, California and the South Pacific.

Fleur BaingerPerth Having worn her first backpack to Europe when she was just 10 years old, Perth-based journalist Fleur gets a heck of a buzz from being a freelance travel and food writer. As Western Australia’s weekly food reviewer for The Sunday Times Magazine, she’s constantly on the hunt for Perth’s best new eateries, while her weekly ‘what’s on’ slot on 6PR talkback radio means she’s always got the lowdown on events and openings around town. She’s a Lonely Planet Local, a

destination expert for The Telegraph (UK) and regular contributor to Australian Traveller, Escape, ABC radio and more.

Cristian BonettoQueensland Cristian has contributed to over 30 Lonely Planet guides to date, covering places including New York City, Italy, Venice & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and design appear in numer-ous publications around the world, including The Telegraph (UK) and Corriere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). When not on the road, you’ll find this reformed play-

wright and TV scriptwriter slurping espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne. Follow him on Instagram @rexcat75.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415320th edition – Nov 2019ISBN 978 1 78701 388 9© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSAndrew BainTasmania Andrew prefers adventure to avarice and can usually be found walking when he should be working. His writing and photography feature in magazines and newspapers around the world, and his writing has won multiple awards, including best adventure story and best Australian story (three times) from the Australian Society of Travel Writers. Andrew has unwittingly smuggled goods across the China–Russia border, shared his bed with a crocodile in the Northern

Territory, and been deported from Estonia. He lives in Hobart, a city that satisfies his need to be constantly near the mountains. His musings on the outdoors world can be found at www.adven-turebeforeavarice.com.

Samantha ForgeAustralian Capital Territory, Canberra Samantha became hooked on travel at the age of 17, when she arrived in London with an overstuffed backpack and a copy of LP’s Europe on a Shoestring. After a stint in Paris, she moved back to Aus-tralia to work as an editor in LP’s Melbourne office. Eventually her wanderlust got the better of her, and she now works as a freelance writer and editor.

Anthony HamNorthern Territory, Queensland Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. In 2001, after years of wandering the world, Anthony finally found his spiritual home when he fell irretrievably in love with Madrid on his first visit to the city. Less than a year later, he arrived there on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and not knowing a single person in the city. When he finally left

Madrid ten years later, Anthony spoke Spanish with a Madrid accent and was married to a local. Now back in Australia, Anthony continues to travel the world in search of stories.

Trent HoldenVictoria A Geelong-based writer, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a pen-chant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the

subcontinent. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden

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