audi skidanje table
DESCRIPTION
Audi 80 skidanje instrument tableTRANSCRIPT
Audi S2 Heater Matrix
Main text body - Paul Goodwin Pictures – Ian Simmonds
right at the back of the engine bay, hidden in a tangle of pipes and sharp brackets!
Kažu da je grejaè matrica prvi deo koji su ugradili u auto – onda sve ostalo. To je istina!Nažalost, jedini put da se reši problem sa radijatorom je da se izvadi cela tabla.Najdramatièniji deo ovog posla je pokušavanje da se pristupi nekim kljuènim zavrtnjima,
Zato duboko udahnite, sedite na vozaèevo sedište i sve što vidite treba da bude uklonjeno.Najgori deo razmišljanje o tome – kada se krene sa poslom, rastavljanje i nije tako teško.
Firstly, if the car has Air-Con. Get this de-gassed first.Potreba alat:: Phillips screwdriver, 8m, 10mm, 13mm socket and wrench, allen key
Za ovo ãe vam trebati par dana – bez žurbe, tako da treba raditi na nekom mestu koje omoguãavada vam vrata od auta budu skroz otvorena na neki duži vremenski period.Ovo nije posao koji treba raditi na ulici.
Volan i satovi
Postoji puno priruènika koji ubjašnjavaju ovaj deo posla, tako da ga mi neãemo deteljno opisivati. Useful info on Mikes site here: http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articles/outside_temp_display.htm.Najjednostavnije mesto da poènete je da skinete volan – koristite kljuè 24mm sa dugom drškom.
Vodite raèuna da su vam toèkovi postavljeni pravo.
Sledeãe na redu su ruèice iza volana I njihovokuãište. Ovde postoje dva vertikalna šrafa sa krstastom glavom – videãete ispod rupe zapristup sa obe strane.Uklonite gornji deo kuãištatako što ãe te ga pažljivo povuãi prema sebi.
Donji deo kuãišta je spojen sa ruèicama. Prvo pažljivo odvojte multi-konektore. Dva veãa, po jedan sa obe strane i jedan manji (bordkompjuter). Same ruèice su spojene šelnom za štap volana. Na šelni postoji šraf koji treba dovoljno odvrnuti kako bi se šelnaoslobodila od štapa. Ovo je jedna od komplikovanijih operacija i odužeãe vam dostavremena. Kada dovoljno oslobodite šelnu,pažljivo svucite sve kompletno.
Sat sa istrumentima se oslobadja odvrtanjemdva šrafa koja se nalaze iznad štapa volana.Pažljivo povucite sat prema sebi.Videãete dva konektora koji na sredini imajuobojene „osiguraèe“.Upotrebite mali ravniodvijaè kako bi pomerili osiguraèe unazad Ionda izvucite konektore. Kada iskljuèite svekonektore sat ãe biti oslobodjen.
Kaseta ispod upravljaèa takodje treba biti uklonjena.Na njoj se nalaze 3 šrafa na dugoj ravnoj strani i jedan desno dole, kod ruèice za otvaranje haube.
Centre
Dash
Consol.
Postije još dva šrafa na „krovu“ police.Polica bi samo trebala da spadne dole i samo je povucite ka sebi.
Primetiãete daduž prednjegdela ležišta police postoje još 3 šrafa sa crnim podloškama. Postoji još jedana oblast, otprilike u oblastigde se nalazi ruèica za haubu i tu se nalazi još jedan šraf.
Zapišite kako ovo stoji, jer treba da se podudara sašrafovima kada budete vraãali. On takoðe drži i mesingane klipse i ako njih ne vratite napravo mesto, neãete moãi da uvrnete šrafove koji drže policu !Zapišite kako ovo sve stoji i onda uklonite šrafove.
Još jednostavnih stvari,samo verujte u sebe.Ovde je plastièna konzola koja drži prekidaèe, radio i kontrole grejanja. Prvo izvucite radio i otkaèite ga.Tri centralna prekidaèa naokretanje takodje treba izvuãi.Zatim odvijte dva zlatna šrafa i požljivo izvucite masku.
Ovde ãete videti dva malašrafa koji osiguravajupepeljaru (ili kontrolnesatove).
Ovi šrafovi fiksiraju plastiène vodjice koje obezbedjujudržanje glavnog ožièenja koje se pruža duž ivice ležišta police (savijen u obliku velikog znaka pitanja) koji pridržava i vodi uže, saèinjeno od snopa žica, oko gornjeg prednjeg dela table sve do centralne oblasti.Ožièenje kreæe od donjeg desnog dela ivice police...
Zatim uklonite 4 crna šrafa koja prièvršãuju jedinicuza kontrolu grejanja sa centralnom konzolom.Neobièno, ova jedinica se nalazi iza centralne konzolei možemo je ostaviti tu za sada, jer ne ometa daljerasklapanje.Postoje 4x8mm šrafa koja povezuju centralnu konzolu sa kokpitom, po jedan u svakom uglu.
Dva na vrhu su lako dostupna, druga dva su sakrivena u rupama na dnu.
Ja sam koristio elektrièni odvijaè sa 8mm adapterom- jedan od najboljih alata koje sam kupio.Vrlo koristan za ovaj posao. Kada uklonite ova èetirišrafa, pokušajte da povlaèenje odvojitekompletnu centralnu konzolu od kokpita.
Svi konektori su kodirani bojom.Možda ãe te se malo namuèiti dok ihotkaèite, ali kad uspete, konzola bitrebala da bude oslobodjena,a na njoj ãe ostati svi prekidaèi, štoãe vam znatno olakšati posaoprilikom sklapanja.
Ona ãe I dalje ostati povezana za kokpit, ali bi trebalo da dobijetedovoljno slobodnog prostora da rukom pridjete iza I odvojite svekonektore od zadnje strane prekidaèa.
Uklonite samo šrafove – kontrole grejanja ãete lakše izvaditi kad se ukloni cela konzola.Ovo smo uradili da bi se izbeglo lomljenje malih crnih držaèa.
ic
Centre Handbrake Consol
There a little blanking plate in the forward part of the handbrake grab recess that when prised off reveals another black 8mm hex headed bolt to be removed. This secures the centre to the
the large 13mm nyloc bolt and washer underneath. Different models have slightly different arrangements here, some have two bout either side. Might take a little persuasion but the centre and middle part of the consol should now be free to be slide upwards and apart from each other. They are held together by a couple of locating lugs which disengage with a little upwards movements of either one. The middle consol should be capable of being pushed back into the rear of the car a good few inches, without removing the handbrake cover, it usually slides through just enough to manoeuvre the centre consol free. Bit tricky and this will make more sense when you’re looking at it!
Most Centre consoles in my experience have been badly removed at sometime in their past, resulting in the tabs being broken that slide over two metal clips on either side of the bottom centre part of the dash, straddling the VDO’s. Just be aware that these clips are there and that the tabs are plastic and very easy to break! Pull the centre consol towards you and upwards and you should be ok – as follows!
Unscrew the gearknob and start to gently guide the centre consol back and up to free it, the gaiter just slides over the gear stick. Remove that little bit of black trim that sits on top of the VDO’s. Pull the consol back (into the car) a little way then feel behind the VDO’s, following the wires back under the metal bracket that’s on the bottom of the centre part of the dash. The connectors are hidden underneath but easily pulled out to access. There’s a white plug for the VDO’s, muffled in foam usually a smaller brown plug also. This is the feed to the cigar lighter and
illumination and you’ll see the wire running between the 2 sections of the consol. It’s a bit fiddly but the plug to the lighter and bulb should come free easily enough and you can now continue to ease the centre consol back and up till its clear.
rear/middle consol. Remove the rear ashtray and undo
Skidanje table.
Dobar deo pripreme je završen – na redu je instrument
tabla! Instrument tablu uglavnom pridržavaju šestougaoni
zavrtnji velièine 4 x 8 mm, po 2 sa obe strane pored vrata.
Sakriveni su iza dva plastièna poklopca koje treba
(nasilno) otvoriti. Dobro obratite pažnju na položaj instru-
ment table u odnosu na stub vetrobrana i vrata, radi
lakšeg ponovnog postavljanja.
Uklonite pomenute zavrtnje.
Na sredini, instrument tabla je prièvršãena za metalni
držaè, ispod kojeg su bili nabijeni utikaèi za video.
Uklonite i ovaj držaè. Sa obe strane držaèa postoje dva
zavrtnja koja ga prièvršãuju za pod automobila / prenosni
tunel – ti zavrtnji su ispod tepiha, ali postoji mali prorez za
lakši pristup. Postoje dva zavrtnja (mislim da su
šestougaoni preènika 8 mm) sa obe strane držaèa, koji ga
prièvršãuju za donji središnji deo instrument table. Kada
se izvade zavrtnji, potrebno je malo manevrisanja da bi se
izvadio držaè, jer se tu nalaze plastièni ventili koji
snabdevaju zadnji deo putem prenosnog tunela.
Pogledajte pravo u rupu gde je stajala centralna
jedinica i videãete zakrivljeni centralni ventilacioni
kanal, koji izgleda kao izoblièena crna tuba! Negde na
polovini te rupe, sa obe strane, nalaze se 2 srebrne
matice zavrtnja preènika 8 mm koje treba ukloniti.
Ti zavrtnji su prièvršãeni za kuãište matrice. Zavrtanj sa vaše desne
strane je spojen sa ljubièasto-braon multiplug konektorom koji
pripada sistemu žica ventilatora i ne morate ga pomerati. Iza ovog
prikljuèka nalazi se još kanala koji dolaze od instrument table.
Možete samo odvrnuti dva donja zavrtnja i ostaviti
držaè povezan za instrument tablu, ali mislim da je
jednostavnije kada je držaè u potpunosti uklonjen.
Ti kanali su prièvršãeni malim šrafom koji treba ukloniti,
pošto ovaj deo kanala mora da se rastavi kako bi
instrument tabla mogla da se skloni. Ne vidi se dobro,
ali centralni ventilacioni kanal i glavni kanal za
odmagljivanje vetrobrana su povezani sa instrument
tablom, pa se stoga vade zajedno sa instrument tablom!
UKLANJANJE VENTILACIONOG SISTEMA
Tako! A sad teži deo! Uz lagano i pažljivo povlaèenje,
instrument tablu moãi ãete da privuèete sebi, a zatim i da je
izvadite iz automobila!! Ako je povuèete nekoliko centimetara
unapred, instrument tablu ãe i dalje podupirati stub
upravljaèa i držaèi sa obe strane. To je dovoljno da pogledate
iza table kako biste bili sigurni da je sve otkaèeno. Proverite
da li ste 3 multikonektora za stalke progurali kroz ovalnu rupu
predviðenu za stub upravljaèa – rupa je uzana, ali multikone-
ktori moraju biti izvuèeni. Još malo truda i instrument tabla
može da se izvadi. Nije na odmet ako imate nekog da vam
pomogne, ali ja sam radio ovo sam veã par puta. Doduše,
instrument tablu lakše je izvaditi, nego vratiti je nazad!
OK – kada
pogledate nazad
u auto, nemojte
da panièite!!
Verovatno ãete
pomisliti –
zaboga, šta sam to uradio!! U sred auta videãete gomilu
špageta, pogotovo ako imate ugraðenu klimu:
ali zapravo i nije toliko strašno ako popijete koju tabletu
za smirenje i uvidite za šta služe svi ti sistemi žica,
kuda se prostiru, itd. Glavni deo se nalazi na crnoj,
krutoj podlozi. Sve je zapravo prilièno pouèno!
Na vrhu kuãišta ventilatora videãete dva konektora
povezana sa sistemom otpornika za ventilator.
Gornji konektor je glavno napajanje i treba ga
iskljuèiti. Pratite sistem žica na vrhu ventilatora i
odvojite ga. Donji utikaè možete ostaviti,
jer on napaja motor ventilatora.
AUTOMOBILI SA KLIMOM
Nakon toga, treba da izaðete iz automobila da biste došli
do 2 zavrtnja preènika 8 mm koji prièvršãuju ventilator.
Da biste to izveli, prvo treba da uklonite brisaè sa suvoza-
èeve strane, zavrtanj preènika 13 mm ispod malog crnog
poklopca. Zatim, uz pomoã novèiãa, okrenite 4 velika
osiguravajuãa zaptivaèa na plastiènoj dekoraciji / prekrijte
samo ivicu vetrobrana i ležišta motora. Takoðe, povucite
gumenu traku sa ivice u zadnjem delu ležišta motora. Kad
to sklonite, ispod svega ãete verovatno naãi mnogo nakupljene prljavštine, kao i plastièni
poklopac i rešetku koja stoji na spoljašnjem delu ventilatora.
Pre svega treba ukloniti dve matice zavrtnja preènika
10 mm, a gornji deo poklopca treba odvojiti. Ispod njega
nalazi se plastièni zaptivaè koji treba pažljivo odvojiti.
Tako ostaju samo 2 vijka prièvršãena maticama preènika
8 mm koji prolaze kroz
pregradu i ulaze u gornji
deo ventilatora. Ako
imate klimu, videãete i
mali bosh motor koji
služi za recalculating poklopca, koji može da onemoguãi
pristup.
Nakon što se uklonili ove
zavrtnje, možete izvaditi i
ventilator, ali tek nakon što uklonite i 4 spojnice koje povezuju
ventilator sa kuãištem centralne matrice. Na mestu dodira ova
dva elementa, lako ãete uoèiti i spojnice. Nezgodno je ukloniti
ih i èesto se dešava da odfijuèu, ali slobodno ih pažljivo
odvojite – dva se nalaze na ivici okrenutoj ka vama, a druga
dva su sakrivena iza. U ovoj fazi oslobodite ECU (elektronsku
kontrolnu jedinicu) iz kaveza koji je povezan sa zadnjim delom
ove jedinice. Kada ste to obavili, ostaje vam samo da uklonite
kontrolni kabl – budite pažljivi i pratite uputstva data ispod!
Vrlo je nezgodno izvaditi osiguravajuãi zaptivaè (mislim da je
braon boje) – ali, ako ništa drugo, ovaj se bolje vidi od ostalih
koji se nalaze ispod samog kuãišta matrice, tako da je dobro
poèeti s njim!! Kad završite s tim, trebalo bi da možete izvaditi
ceo ventilacioni sistem!
U ležištu motora, otkaèite veliki blok konektora
koji se nalazi sasvim nisko ispod ABS jedinice.
Osim toga, kruti sistem cevi prièvršãen je uz
pregradu (protivpožarni zid) i uz prednju polugu.
Pratite sistem cevi sve do prvog osiguravajuãeg
zgloba i iskljuèite ih (utikaè velièine 10 mm).
Razdvajanje ovih delova stvara dodatni prostor.
Nakon razdvajanja, prekrijte izložene krajeve
kako biste spreèili unos prljavštine u ceo sistem.
UKLANJANJE GREJAÈA KABINE
U ovoj fazi, uklonio sam strut
brace (neka spojnica) i isklju-
èio elektrièni konektor koji je
najbliži gornjem zavrtnju.
Donji zavrtanj je toliko nedo-
stupan da nisam mogao da
ga uslikam, ali moguãe je
(jedva) okrenuti kljuè za
osminu kruga.
Ovo ãe potrajati...
Jedinica grejaèa kabina je prièvršãena sa dva zavrtnja špicastih
vrhova koji se nalaze na zadnjem delu držaèa, prolaze kroz
protivpožarni zid i zavrnuti su sa te strane.
U zavisnosti
od motora
(80 ili S2), ove
zavrtnje može
biti relativno
lako naãi i
ukloniti!
Takoðe iz
sistema cevi
za napajanje
matrice treba
ukloniti i dva
creva za dovod koja štrèe kroz pregradu. Creva su prièvršãena
sa stegama za crevo, i jednostavno se izvlaèe, ali budite
oprezni, jer možda još uvek ima vode unutra.
Nazad unutar auta, treba da uklonite
kontrolne kablove ventilatora na mestu
gde su povezani sa raznim delovima
konzole matrice. Svi su oznaèeni
bojama, i kontrolišu klapne ventilatora
koje usmeravaju vruã ili nezagrejan
vazduh. Na kraju žice nalazi se mali
kružni obruè koji se povezuje sa malom
drškom kontrolnog mehanizma za
razlièite klapne. Ovo se jednostvno
odvaja uz malo sile – mislim da sam
koristio klješta za podešavanje. Ovaj
deo Bowden kabla se lako pomera,
a spoljni omotaè je prièvršãen za
kuãište matrice uz pomoã spojnica oznaèenih odgovarajuãom bojom.
BUDITE VRLO OPREZNI sa ovim spojnicama!! Mogu vrlo lako da puknu ako zbrzate ovaj korak,
i kao sa svakim sliènim kablom, ako spoljni omotaè ne može dobro da se prièvrsti prilikom
ponovnog sklapanja, neãe ni raditi kako treba! Svaka spojnica ima dva dela za povezivanje
– zakrivljeni deo za smeštanje koji upada u mali prorez i nije odmah vidljiv, i veãi deo za
prièvršãivanje koja je vidljiviji. Odvojite ovaj veãi i zašiljeni deo od mesta na kom se nalazi na
kuãištu, ali nastavite da ga pomerate unazad u tom pravcu kako biste bili sigurni da skriveni,
zakrivljeni deo može potpuno da se oslobodi iz proreza. Upravo ovaj deo uglavnom pukne ako
ne obezbedite dovoljno prostora za pomeranje kako bi ovaj manji deo oslobodili i izvadili iz
proreza! Ovaj korak je baš zamoran – ali nemojte žuriti dok ga obavljate!!
KLIMA
This is a list of personal experiences and not a maintenance procedure.
Pošto ste uklonili ove kablove, grejaè kabine može se povuãi od ispod pregrade, i izvuãi
napolje – usput izvucite dve cevi za napajanje na samom grejaèu kabine, kao i zavrtnje!
Osnova ima footwell vents i vezana je za ventile koji se protežu duže strane prenosnog
tunela do zadnjeg dela automobila. Ventili se spajaju jedino u prorezu i mogu se lako
rastaviti.
Pošto ste oslobodili
celu jedinicu, primeti-
ãete vrh grejaèa kabine
koji se vadi tako što
ãete ga povuãi na gore
i zatim van glavnog
kuãišta.
U zavisnosti od
kolièine vode koja je do
sada iscurila, sada je
dobra prilika da oèistite
delove tepiha koji se
inaèe ne vide!!
Sve što sada treba da uradite je da sve
ponovo sastavite!!
Prilikom ponovnog sklapanja, bila bi dobra ideja da obnovite spojnice na spojevima cevi.
Kao opšte upozorenje, predlažem da testirate lampice instrumenata prilikom ponovnog
sklapanja, pošto im rasklapanje èesto ne prija.
Audi S2 Heater Matrix
Main text body - Paul Goodwin Pictures – Ian Simmonds
They say that the heater matrix is the first part they put in the car – the build the rest around it. That’s very true! Unfortunately the only way to fix a problem with the matrix as
a result is to take the dash out – not for the feint hearted but relatively straightforward. On an S2, the most demanding part is trying to get access to some key bolts, right at the
back of the engine bay, hidden in a tangle of pipes and sharp brackets! So take a deep breath and, sitting in the drivers seat everything you’re looking at has to be removed!! That’s the worst part, thinking about it – once you get going its not so bad especially with a few pointers! Firstly, if the car has Air-Con. Get this de-gassed first. Tools you’ll need: Phillips screwdriver, 8m, 10mm, 13mm socket and wrench, allen key This will probably take a couple of days unrushed – so you obviously need somewhere to work and to be able to have the doors fully open for long periods of time. This is not a job to do on the street if you can avoid it!!
Steering wheel and Clocks
here’s a lot of guides explaining this part so I’ll not go into too much detail here. Useful fo on Mikes site here: http://www.s2-
Tinaudi.co.uk/tech_articles/outside_temp_display.htm. Simplest place to start is to take off
the steering wheel – usually a 24mm socket on a long bar should do it.
Make sure the wheels are aligned nice &
mes the
indicator stalks and shroud. There are two vertically fitted cross head screws – you’ll see the access holes on either side underneath. Once removed gently remove the top of the shroud – its got
straight. I must admit tho, I’ve never tried this on a car with an airbag!! Next co
locating lugs on the sides and there’s 2 rubber edged plugs that locate in a little slot like might
brake them.
The lower part of the shroud is attached to the stalks. I unplugged the multi-connectors at this point as they are in tight and need careful force to part them. Two larger ones on either side and a smaller cream one for the board computer. The stalks themselves are
brass collar. There’s a slot under the shroud
ly to be pulled free and off the steering column.
ing you d on through the steering As a result you need to angle the screwdriver or
r part of the job!! Once loosened the stalks simply pull forward off the end f the steering column.
le.
ght as you look at the clocks is blue There’s 3 more onnectors on the left hand side of the clocks as you ok at them. It’s the same for the two larger coloured
py
awaccmanoeuvred out.
affair on the lower front on the clocks so be carefully to pull forwards slightly or you
and depending on what you have it could bea cross head or allen key bolt to loosen thecollar sufficiently for the stalk assembHard to describe this but if you imagcolumn the bolt sits at about 8 o’clock. allen key through the slot underneath and can be a bit tricky to locate! I actually wasted more time on this part trying to work out if I had an allen key of a screw in there than I think any othe
attached to the steering column by a small
’re looking hea
o
multi-plugs on the back are a bit trickyand have a coloured clip in the middUse a flat blade screwdriver to leaver this clip upwards. The clips once proud of the plugs then acts like a handle to
pull on and release the connector. The one on the
The clock binnacle is secured by two brass screws either side of the locator that seats the upper cover for the indicator stalks and above the steering column. You can’t miss them! Gently tip the top of the clocks back and ease the base forwards, right hand side first. The
riclo
lugs ellow nd hite) nd a small black plug for the board omputer which just gently pulls free. The locks should then be able to be
(
The tray beneath the steering wheel also needs to be removed – all 8mm hex
headed bolts. There’s 3 along the front edge and one right down where the bonnet release is. There’s 2 more inside the “roof” of the shelf. The shelf will probably just drop
down and can be pull towards you and withdrawn.
are 3 s w
you’ve just removed. There’s another down by the e area, roughly where the other bolt was
e secure the main wiring harness to the lower he dash – its sits in a rigid plastic guide (shaped
loright round the lip where the sback behind the centre dash athis sits as it need to match upback together. It also h
ncrews.
uff, just a bit fiddly. There is a
l / rack that holds the switches, CD ls. So firstly remove and unplug
lso
usually easy enough by prying carefully from
r
You’ll notice along the front lip where the shelf fits theremore screw ith black washers, roughly adjacent to the bolts bonnet releasalso. Thesedge of t
wer edge, and goes helf joins then ducks rea. Take note of how with the screws when brass clips that the
shelf bolts secure to and if these arnt in the right positioMake a note of how it sits and remove the 4 locating s
Centre Dash Consol.More straightforward stcentre plastic consoradio and heater controyour cd / radio. The 3 centre heater vents aneed to be removed,
a little like a large question mark) that supports and guides the rope like bundle of wires around the lower front of the dash to the centre area. It starts at the lower right hand edge of the dash, bonnet grab area, its tucked snugly against the
olds the you’ll not get the shelf back on!
underneath. Next remove the 3 heater control knobs – either with pliers and some protective cardboard othey can be carefully prised out where the central grab part of the
dial has a flat end. Two goldish hex-headed screws will be evident in the recess of the outer two dials. With these screws out the dial plate can be levered out. You’ll see two similar looking hex screw heads that secure the
little bit of black plastic trim that sits on the top of the VDO’s with 2 lugs that poke up from below though slots into the lower part of the dashboard. Remove the screws fonow – the trim itself will be easier to remove when the centre consol is loose. It’s the failure to do this that breaks locating lugs on the consol at either side of the VDO;s andcauses it to sag on either side!
Next up remove the 4 black dom
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e headed screws
consol. Unusually this unit sits behind the consol self and can be left for now as it doesn’t really
ne in
with an adapter to fit an electric once of the best little tools I’ve
ry useful for this job! With these uld
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enough clearance to get in behind and paway from theswitches. The
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that attached the heater blower unit to the dash
itinterfere with the consol removal. There are 4 x 8mm hex headed screws that secure the centre consol to the dash, o
hidden at the end of access holes. I used an 8mm socket screwdriver – ever bought! Veremoved it shonow be possible to pull the consol away slightly from the main dash. Its still attachould be able to get ull the connectors back of the se are all a colour
coded plug to the switch. Might take a good tug but once they arall removed this should leavconsol free to be withdrawn and with all the switches still in placewhich I reckon makes it easier when refitting.
each corner. The top 2 are easy to get at, the lower are
by the bank of dash switches but you sh
Centre Handbrake Consol
There a little blanking plate in the forward part of the handbrake grab recess that when prised off reveals another black 8mm hex headed bolt to be removed. This secures the centre to the rear/middle consol. Remove the rear ashtray and undo the large
13mm nyloc bolt and washer underneath. Different models have slightly different arrangements here, some have two bout either side. Might take a little persuasion but the centre and middle part of the consol should now be free to be slide upwards and apart from each other. They are held together by a couple of locating lugs which disengage with a little upwards movements of either one. The middle consol should be capable of being pushed back into the rear of the car a good few inches, without removing the handbrake cover, it usually slides through just enough to manoeuvre the centre consol free. Bit tricky and this will make more sense when you’re looking at it! Most Centre consoles in my experience have been badly removed at sometime in their past, resulting in the tabs being broken that slide over two metal clips on either side of the bottom centre part of the dash, straddling the VDO’s. Just be aware that these clips are there and that the tabs are plastic and very easy to break! Pull the centre consol towards you and upwards and you should be ok – as follows! Unscrew the gearknob and start to gently guide the centre consol back and up to free it,
the gaiter just slides over the gear stick. Remove that little bit of black trim that sits on top of the VDO’s. Pull the consol back (into the car) a little way then feel behind the VDO’s, following the wires back under the metal bracket that’s on the bottom of the centre part of the dash. The connectors are hidden underneath but easily pulled out to access. There’s a white plug for the VDO’s, muffled in foam usually a smaller brown plug also. This is the feed to the cigar lighter and
illumination and you’ll see the wire running between the 2 sections of the consol. It’s a bit fiddly but the plug to the lighter and bulb should come free easily enough and you can now continue to ease the centre consol back and up till its clear.
Removing the Dash That’s most of the prep work – next up it’s the dash itself! The dash, amazingly is mainly held in place by 4 x 8mm hex bolts, 2 on either side by the door. They are hidden behind two plastic caps on either side than are prised off. Take note as best you can of how the dash sits against the windscreen pillar and door for realignment later. Remove these bolts. Centrally, the dash is secured by the metal bracket
the VDO plugs were stuffed under. Remove this bracket next. There’s two bolts either side that secure it to the floorpan / transmission tunnel – they’re behind the carpet but there’s a little flap cut for access. There’s 2 bolts (8mm hex I think) on either side that secure the bracket to lower centre part of the dash itself. With the bolts out it takes a bit of manoeuvring to get this out over the plastic vents that feed the rear along the transmission tunnel. You could
just undo the 2 lower bolts and leave the bracket attached to the dash but I think its easier with the bracket removed entirely. Look straight at the hole where the centre unit lived and you’ll see the curve of the centre vent ducting, like a misshapen black tuba! About halfway up on either side there are two 8mm
silver nuts to be removed. The bolts are fixed to the matrix housing. The right hand one as you look at it has a purple/ brown multipulg connector clipped to it that’s part of the blower wiring which can be left as is. Behind this plug more ducting joins where it comes down from the dash. This is
secured by a small screw and needs to be removed as this part of the ducting needs to come apart when the dash is removed. It’s difficult to see but the centre vent ducting and the main windscreen demisting ducting are attached to the dash and as such come out with it!
Right! Now for the heavy bit! With a bit of careful tugging the dash should be free to be with drawn towards you and then out of the car!! Pull it it a few inches forward, it should still rest on the steering column and the side supports enough to allow a quick check behind to make sure everything is loose. Make sure the 3 mulitconnectors for the stalks have been pushed through the oval hole for the steering column –it’s a bit tight but they need to be out of the way. Bit more effort and out comes the dash!! Does help to have an assistant, but Ive done this a couple of times on my own now. Getting it out is easier than getting it back in though!
Ok – when you look back into the car don’t panic!! You’ll probably think -what on earth have I done!! You’ll have a big plate of spaghetti sitting in the middle of the car, more so if you’ve got aircon, but its actually not so
bad once you pop a couple of prozac and look at what the wiring does, where it runs etc. the main bulk is on that rigid black support. Very educational actually! Blower Unit removal At the top of the blower housing you’ll see two connectors plugged into the resistor pack for the blower unit. The top one is the main power feed and needs to unplugged. Follow the wiring along the top pf the blower unit and unclip it. The lower plug can be left as it is the power feed to the blower motor.
Next you need to go outside the car the get at the 2x 8mm bolts that secure the blower unit. For this you’ll need to remove the passenger side wiper, 13mm bolt under the little black cap. Then turn with a coin the 4 large secure washers on the plastic trim / shroud only the edge of the windscreen and engine bay. Pull back the rubber strip from the lip at the back of the engine bay also. With this removed you’ll probably find a lot of accumulated muck under there and the plastic cowl and grill that sits on the outside of the blower unit.
There are 2 10mm nuts that need to be removed first and the top part of the cowl should prise off revealing a foam gasket underneath which should carefully prise off. This leaves two studs with 8mm attached nuts that locate through the bulkhead and into the top of the blower unit. If you’ve aircon
there’s the little bosh motor for the recalculating flap that might hamper access.
With these bolts removed the blower unit is free to be removed once the 4 clips have been removed that hold the unit to the central matrix housing. Look down the join and you’ll see them easily. These are tricky and tend to ping off, but prise them free carefully – there’s two on the facing edge and two hidden behind. At this stage release the ECU from its cage attached to the rear of this unit. That just leaves the control cable to removed – carefully as described below! The securing clip (brown I think) is very tricky – but at least this one is more visible than the others underneath the matrix housing itself, so a good one to start with!! Once done it should now be possible to remove the whole blower unit assembly!
On air-con cars In the engine bay, release the large air-con connector block located low down below the ABS unit. Additionally, the rigid pipework is secured against the bulkhead (firewall) and against the front fore-arm. Follow the pipework to the first securing clamps and release (10mm socket). This will give additional movement as you pull the unions apart. Once apart, cover both exposed ends to prevent dirt entering the system.
Heater Matrix Removal The heater Matrix unit is secured by two bolts with pointed ends on a bracket at the rear that go through the fire wall and are bolted from that side. Depending on the engine these bolts can be relatively easy (as in my 80) or a PITA (as in the S2) to get at and remove! You will also
need to remove the two feed hoses from the matrix feed pipes sticking through the bulkhead. Secured with hose clips they simply pull off but careful with the water still in there! Back inside the car you will need to remove the control cables from the blower unit where they attach to various parts of the matrix consol. They are all colour coded and control the vent flaps to direct the hot or unheated air. The end of the wire has a small circular hoop that clips over the small stalk of the control mechanism for the various flaps. This will just prise off with a bit of persuasion – think I used some long nose pliars. This part of the Bowden cable moves freely whilst the outer sheath is secured to the matrix housing by colour coded clips. BE VERY CAREFUL with these clips!! They are so easy to snap if you rush this part and as with any such cable, if the outside sheath cant be properly secured again on refitting it wont work properly! Each clip has two attaching parts – a curved locating clip that slits in a small slot and cant immediately be seen and the larger fastening clip, which is the more visible. Prise off this larger and pointed clip from where it locates on the housing but continue to move it backwards in that direction to be sure to allow the hidden, curved clip at the base to be fully freed from its slot. Its usually this part that snaps off if you don’t provide enough movement for this smaller part of the fastening to become free and clear of the little slot! It’s a right PITA - but don’t rush this part!!
At this stage I removed the strut brace and released the electrical connector closest to the top bolt. The bottom bolt is so buried I couldn’t get a photo of it, but it is (just) possible to get an 8th of a turn on a spanner. It’ll take ages…
With these cables removed the matrix housing can be pulled from under the bulkhead and out – drawing the two feedpipes on the heater matrix itself and bolts as you go! The base has the footwell vents and also connects to the vents the run along the side of the transmission tunnel to the rear of the car. The vents just slot together and can be easily pulled apart.
With the whole unit free you can see the top of the heater matrix itself which is removed by drawing upwards out of the main housing. Depending on how much water leakage you’ve had now’s a good opportunity to clear the bits of carpet you never get to see!! Now all you’ve got to do it put it all together again!!
Air-Con – On the re-construction, it might be an idea to renew the seals disturbed on the Air-con pipe union. And as a general note, test the instrument bulbs as you go, they’ll not have enjoyed the excursion. This is a list of personal experiences and not a maintenance procedure.