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1 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012 ASSAM & THE NORTHEAST FRONTIER 15 – 30 MARCH / 5 APRIL 2012 TOUR REPORT LEADER: CRAIG ROBSON This was the seventh Birdquest tour to the remote north-east corner of the Indian subcontinent, and the fourth to take in the rugged Mishmi Hills. Conditions were mostly fine and sunny but, unfortunately, some appalling stormy wet weather engulfed the Mishmi Hills for a large part of our stay there, and we also encountered rather more than our fair share of logistical hiccups. Despite all this, our ever burgeoning checklist for this trip continues to grow, and there were a further 24 write- ins amongst the huge total of 481 species that we encountered. The numerous avian highlights included Greater Adjutant, Jerdon’s Baza, six Slender-billed Vultures at their nesting trees, Pied Harrier, Pallas’s Fish-eagle, multiple Pied falconets, Swamp Francolin, both the rare Chestnut- breasted and White-cheeked Partridges, an amazingly confiding Grey Peacock-pheasant, many Kalij Pheasants, male and female Bengal Florican, Brown Crake, Ibisbill, Indian Stone-curlew, Speckled Woodpigeon, 12 species of owl (eight of which were seen), walk-away views of a male Hodgson’s Frogmouth, Dark-rumped Swift, lengthy scope views of a perched Blyth’s Kingfisher, a lovely male Ward’s Trogon, 17 species of Woodpecker, good views for all of the tricky Blue-naped Pitta, Maroon- backed Accentor, Long-billed Thrush, two different male Green Cochoas, Pygmy Blue and Pale- chinned Flycatchers, many Himalayan Rubythroats, White-browed and Rufous-breasted Bush-robins, five species of forktail, Chestnut-backed, Rufous-necked and Assam Laughingthrushes, amazing views of Sickle- (or Slender-billed) Scimitar-babbler, Coral-billed Scimitar-babbler, Mishmi, Bar- winged and Tawny-breasted Wren-babblers, a very obliging Chevron-breasted (or Cachar Wedge- billed) Babbler, Jerdon’s Babbler, best ever views of the rare Snowy-throated Babbler, White-hooded Babbler, Streak-throated Barwing, Golden-breasted, Yellow-throated, Streak-throated (or Manipur), Ludlow’s, Rusty-capped, and Rufous-throated Fulvettas, Grey, Beautiful, and Long-tailed Sibias, White-naped Yuhina, both Greater and Lesser Rufous-headed Parrotbills, a fantastic flock of 60 Fulvous Parrotbills, eight species of prinia, all three tesias, Smoky Leaf-, Yellow-vented, White- spectacled, Grey-cheeked, Rufous-faced, and Black-faced Warblers, Brown Bush-warbler, Rufous- browed, Rufous-vented and Grey Crested Tits, Beautiful Nuthatch, Rusty-flanked Treecreeper, Dark- rumped Rosefinch, and Collared Treepie. There was also an impressive movement of raptors and other migrants over the Mishmi Hills and adjacent river-plains. Mammals were a big deal on this tour of course, and we had some great encounters with Hoolock Gibbon, Ganges-Indus Dolphin, Asian Elephant, Asian One-horned Rhinoceros, Swamp Deer, and wild Water Buffalo, amongst many others.

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1 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

ASSAM & THE NORTHEAST FRONTIER

15 – 30 MARCH / 5 APRIL 2012

TOUR REPORT

LEADER: CRAIG ROBSON This was the seventh Birdquest tour to the remote north-east corner of the Indian subcontinent, and the fourth to take in the rugged Mishmi Hills. Conditions were mostly fine and sunny but, unfortunately, some appalling stormy wet weather engulfed the Mishmi Hills for a large part of our stay there, and we also encountered rather more than our fair share of logistical hiccups. Despite all this, our ever burgeoning checklist for this trip continues to grow, and there were a further 24 write-ins amongst the huge total of 481 species that we encountered. The numerous avian highlights included Greater Adjutant, Jerdon’s Baza, six Slender-billed Vultures at their nesting trees, Pied Harrier, Pallas’s Fish-eagle, multiple Pied falconets, Swamp Francolin, both the rare Chestnut-breasted and White-cheeked Partridges, an amazingly confiding Grey Peacock-pheasant, many Kalij Pheasants, male and female Bengal Florican, Brown Crake, Ibisbill, Indian Stone-curlew, Speckled Woodpigeon, 12 species of owl (eight of which were seen), walk-away views of a male Hodgson’s Frogmouth, Dark-rumped Swift, lengthy scope views of a perched Blyth’s Kingfisher, a lovely male Ward’s Trogon, 17 species of Woodpecker, good views for all of the tricky Blue-naped Pitta, Maroon-backed Accentor, Long-billed Thrush, two different male Green Cochoas, Pygmy Blue and Pale-chinned Flycatchers, many Himalayan Rubythroats, White-browed and Rufous-breasted Bush-robins, five species of forktail, Chestnut-backed, Rufous-necked and Assam Laughingthrushes, amazing views of Sickle- (or Slender-billed) Scimitar-babbler, Coral-billed Scimitar-babbler, Mishmi, Bar-winged and Tawny-breasted Wren-babblers, a very obliging Chevron-breasted (or Cachar Wedge-billed) Babbler, Jerdon’s Babbler, best ever views of the rare Snowy-throated Babbler, White-hooded Babbler, Streak-throated Barwing, Golden-breasted, Yellow-throated, Streak-throated (or Manipur), Ludlow’s, Rusty-capped, and Rufous-throated Fulvettas, Grey, Beautiful, and Long-tailed Sibias, White-naped Yuhina, both Greater and Lesser Rufous-headed Parrotbills, a fantastic flock of 60 Fulvous Parrotbills, eight species of prinia, all three tesias, Smoky Leaf-, Yellow-vented, White-spectacled, Grey-cheeked, Rufous-faced, and Black-faced Warblers, Brown Bush-warbler, Rufous-browed, Rufous-vented and Grey Crested Tits, Beautiful Nuthatch, Rusty-flanked Treecreeper, Dark-rumped Rosefinch, and Collared Treepie. There was also an impressive movement of raptors and other migrants over the Mishmi Hills and adjacent river-plains. Mammals were a big deal on this tour of course, and we had some great encounters with Hoolock Gibbon, Ganges-Indus Dolphin, Asian Elephant, Asian One-horned Rhinoceros, Swamp Deer, and wild Water Buffalo, amongst many others.

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The entire group flew out from London and, after our arrival at Dibrugarh Airport, we were met by our three vehicles and headed off towards Namdapha Tiger Reserve. News of our first logistical hurdle was soon forthcoming, and we discovered that we would have to spend our first two nights camping at Miao and Gibbon’s Land (10-mile Camp) respectively. There was a government sponsored Tiger survey underway in the reserve, resulting in some unexpected disruptions. Our third and sixth nights were spent camping in the grounds of Deban resthouse, with three days of trekking in between, based at Hornbill Camp. The change around did not affect us adversely however. On the contrary, it encouraged us to go birding in some new areas and we encountered a good number of species that we would not have expected to see. On top of this, the camping conditions continue to improve, with walk-in tents, beds, pillows and who knows what, to ensure that we were always comfortable and well taken care of. A local guide took us birding across the river from Miao on our first morning. A large flock of Small Pratincoles entertained us as we waited for the boat, and on the other side we enjoyed some good introductory birding. Great Hornbills were seen mating, Blue-bearded Bee-eater was nice, and we had the most amazing views of a female Grey Peacock-pheasant. On a late sunny morning, it flew down to the stream right in front of us to drink and bath. In the afternoon we combined driving and walking up to Gibbon’s Land, where our camp was in a very birdy area. Nothing outstanding, but a really good range of species. Himalayan Pied Kingfisher was seen well on a side-stream of the Noa Dihing River, and at dusk a pair of Brown Boobooks gave exceptional views. From there we walked most of the way to Deban. Another very pleasant mornings birding. Early on we had fleeting views of a Blyth’s Kingfisher, which we later saw much better at this location, perched on a streamside rock for an extended period. Large numbers of Streaked Spiderhunters were doing their mass-movement thing again, and we have witnessed this spectacle for several years running now. Hundreds of birds constantly moving east in small numbers, apparently homing-in on some food source somewhere. We had some of our first views of Rufous-necked Hornbill, a nice Crested Goshawk was scoped, some of us saw a circling kettle of Black Storks, and we had some brilliant views of a Collared Treepie. At Deban we searched for the ever elusive White-bellied Heron without success, but we did manage to track-down two feeding Ibisbills, a peregrinator race Peregrine Falcon, and some Brown Dippers. On the following day, we embarked on our mini expedition into the forested depths of the park proper. We first crossed the fast-flowing Noa Dihing River, which has divided into two since last years monsoon, by boat, and then we waded ankle-deep across the smaller Deban River, before joining the main track to Haldibari (475m). On the way we passed through a large area of bamboo where we managed to get some really good views of Snowy-throated Babbler. This scarce near-endemic can be very hard to see, so we considered ourselves lucky indeed to have seen it that well. After lunch at Haldibari (prepared by our camp-cooks), we plodded on to Hornbill (610m), where we camped for two nights, attracting-in a rather angry calling Collared Owlet along the way. As we enjoyed a nice cup of coffee at camp, several Pied Falconets alighted in ‘their tree’. After dark on the first night we went frogmouthing, and after quite a bit of work, eventually had very lengthy and nice views of a male. A Spot-bellied (or Forest) Eagle-owl gave its eerie loud call at one stage, but disappeared into the night. During our full day based at Hornbill, we trekked towards Ranijheel and back via ‘nuthatch ridge’. This year we actually managed see a Beautiful Nuthatch on ‘it’s ridge’, in a bird flock that also contained some nice Rufous-backed Sibias. On the way up the ridge we managed to get some good looks at White-cheeked Partridge, as it pondered what to do on the edge of the trail. The large bamboo area on the way to Ranijheel was disappointingly quiet. We found one or two Pale-headed Woodpeckers, but they wouldn’t show well. We trekked back to Deban, lucking-in on a nice male Green Cochoa. Even before we had left Hornbill Camp, two White-throated Brown (or Northern Brown) Hornbills had perched up in a treetop. Down by the Deban River, Karel went on a mission, and managed to find a couple of Greater Painted-snipes, a most unexpected write-in here, with suitable habitat only just developing. Before leaving Namdapha, we had time for a few hours birding along the Deban-Vijaynagar Road. Here, we finally caught up with a really good flock of bamboo-lovers - White-hooded Babbler, both Greater and Lesser Rufous-headed Parrotbills, and both Coral-billed and Orange-billed Scimitar-babblers, all foraging together. There were better views of Pale-headed Woodpecker, and another Collared Treepie was glimpsed. There was even another male Green Cochoa. We made the drive to

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Tinsukia, where the wondrous delights of civilization awaited us at the remarkable Hotel Centrepoint! Our day birding at Dibru Saikhowa began with an even bigger surprise than the last time I lead the tour - the entire habitat of Black-breasted Parrotbill had been washed-away by the previous years monsoon, and I mean all of it! Try as we might, in the sub-optimal stuff that remained, there was not a sniff. We were also panicked by the presence of a large number of wild Asian Elephants and Water Buffalo that made everyone a little nervous. A singing Marsh Babbler was taped-in, but unfortunately the bird decided to only show for the leader; very unhelpful. We took the boat to the other side of the river, where good grassland habitats continue to develop. A Water Hyacinth clogged wetland held our largest variety of freshwater birds to date, including some nice Ferruginous Pochards. More grassland birds were added to the tally, with Swamp Francolin, Pied Harrier, Jerdon’s and Striated Babblers, loads of Bluethroats and Himalayan Rubythroats, Smoky and Paddyfield Warbler and Black-faced Bunting all being seen well. There were also a great variety of wagtails and pipits, and we even found a Wryneck. Our chance to look for Swamp Prinia was thwarted by the danger of being charged by a crazy wild Water Buffalo, as were further goes at Marsh Babbler. Along the Dibru River itself, we saw several Great Crested Grebes and had a handful of sightings of the rare Ganges-Indus Dolphin. Leaving civilization behind once more, we headed off for Mishmi Hills. We crossed the Brahmaputra River at Saikhowa Ghat, on one of the World’s most primitive ferries, and drove to the foothills near Roing. The river was quite birdy, with a flock of Tufted Ducks, Bar-headed Geese, Spot-billed Pelicans, Little Stints and Dunlins (both unusual here) amongst the numerous Temminck’s Stints, a couple of write-in Indian Stone-curlews, and a pair of Bengal Bushlarks. Our first night was spent in tents and newly constructed simple rooms at Ipra’s 14km lodge (that’s 14km from Roing). In the afternoon we did a little birding down the road, with nothing of any real note being seen. After dark, a couple of us got close to Mountain Scops-owl, and another frogmouth was heard. Early the next morning we headed down into the braided river-system and grasslands adjacent to the hills, with Ipra (a local landowner). He had reported Bengal Florican recently, and it wasn’t long before a female flew up and passed around in front of us. Once on foot, we had even better views, as it flew back the other way calling. Apart from the florican, the highlight of the morning was the raptor migration. The weather was good for the first time in a while and large numbers of birds were pushing east. Hundreds of Black-eared Kites where heading across the river-plain before circling up to cross the Mishmi Hills. They were joined by both Long-legged and the commoner Himalayan Buzzard, Great Spotted Eagles, and Hen Harriers. After lunch, we drove up to the guesthouse at Mayodia. Stopping for a walk on the way. We soon heard the familiar ditty of the endemic Mishmi Wren-babbler, and a bit of encouragement brought the bird out to give amazingly good views - they can be a pain. It was good to see that ownership of the guesthouse had been taken over by someone more savvy, and it was already much cleaner than during previous visits. Renovations are proposed. Although the guesthouse needs some work, it is ideally situated at almost 2500m, next to the remote Roing to Hunli road, a few kilometres before Mayodia Pass. From such a convenient base, it was easy to explore the seemingly endless forests between 600 and 3000m elevation. We began by birding the higher stretches up to, and beyond the Mayodia Pass. Soon we were clocking-up such specialties as Manipur and Ludlow’s Fulvettas, Sickle-billed (or Slender-billed) Scimitar-babbler, Hume’s Bush-warbler, and Fire-tailed Sunbird etc. Two different Bar-winged Wren-babblers were found, with one performing really well. It was lovely to see plenty of different Rhododendrons and magnolias in full bloom. We continued birding over the pass, and lunch was brought to us while we studied a Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker. Later in the day we came back over the pass and went back down towards Roing a little. A couple of Streak-throated Barwings and a nice Crimson-breasted Pied Woodpecker showed very well and further down we soon heard the unmistakable sound of a male Ward’s Trogon. It took a long time, but eventually we got some nice scope views close to the road. As the weather was staying fine we decided to earmark the following

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day for a trek along the monal-trail. Everything looked promising until we encountered a lot of snow towards the far end of the trail. This really slowed us down and there also appeared to be too much snow on the higher ground for monals in any case. On the way, we had much better views of Sickle-billed Scimitar-babbler. While we ate lunch an amazing bird flock came around us, containing no fewer than four write-ins for the trip: Rufous-fronted, Grey Crested and Coal Tits, and Rusty-flanked Treecreeper. A fourth addition, Rufous-vented Tit, was seen not that far back along the trail in another flock. After a scan of the slopes we returned along the trail. Suddenly, the sound of busily foraging parrotbills could be heard. We piled down through the snow as quickly as we could and soon found ourselves in the middle of a flock of 60 Fulvous-breasteds. It was a tough walk, and disappointing in some ways, but we still managed to see quite a few really interesting birds. On the third day the rain began, and it was to continue for the remainder of our stay in the Mishmi Hills. The horrible weather very seriously compromised our search for some important target species, notably Blyth’s Tragopan, which we only heard this year. On the one early morning that the rain slightly abated, we were somewhat compensated by some good views of the very rare Chestnut-breasted Partridge, the first that we have managed to see at Mishmi. We spent a lot of time waiting for the rain to stop at lower levels, so that we could search for the enigmatic Chevron-breasted (or Cachar Wedge-billed) Babbler and Long-billed Wren-babbler. We couldn’t get a squeak out of the latter, but eventually we tracked down a very vocal Chevron-breasted, during a fairly briefly halt in the rains, and had some really good views of it. Other Mishmi highlights included Hill Partridge, a calling Himalayan Wood-owl that we managed to see from the roof-top at Mayodia guesthouse, a mixed feeding flock of Rufous-breasted Accentors and Little Buntings, some roadside Maroon-backed Accentors, Rufous-breasted Bush-robin, a group of Coral-billed Scimitar-babblers, the wonderfully neat Golden-breasted and Yellow-throated Fulvettas, and lots of White-naped Yuhinas, Black-faced Warblers and Yellow-billed Blue Magpies. The morning we left the Mishmi Hills, we encountered one of the most shocking downpours that I have ever witnessed. The weather just got worse and worse. We quickly headed down to the foot of the hills, just making it across a small bridge over a fast flowing river on the way to Roing. We later discovered that it was washed away a few hours after we passed! The road in Roing itself was like a river, with shop owners standing knee-deep in water that was flowing very fast down the main road. At one point we jumped out-of-our-skins when the car was almost struck by lightening! The rain subsided as we left the hills and, pausing for a break, we were most surprised to see a flock of Long-tailed Broadbills in what basically amounted to non-forest habitat. Perhaps they were trying to escape the weather too! There were more ‘thrills’ to come, as the rain had turned the tracks down to Saikhowa Ghat into a muddy mess, and it took us a couple of hours to get our vehicles to the boat. The following morning, we were supposed to visit the famous Digboi Oilfields, about an hour’s drive away from Tinsukia. There was some further hassle. Trouble with locals in the oilfields, and access denied on all fronts - unbelievable. With only a couple of hours remaining, we had to find ourselves a bit of habitat and then tape in a pair of elusive Chestnut-backed laughingthrushes. It was a big ask, but somehow we managed it, with several of us getting decent views. A Square-tailed Drongo also swooped-in. We headed off to Dibrugarh Airport, where Jonathan had to leave us, and then we continued to Kaziranga National Park. We continued west to the world famous Kaziranga National Park. Along the way, the fields looked very dry, and apparently it had hardly rained for a long time. Fortunately the road passed one area of wet fields and marshy ground. A large number of birds wee packed in here. There were both Glossy and Black-headed Ibises, loads of Lesser Adjutants, and over 200 Grey-headed Swamphens. A Lesser Fish-eagle that flew in was a big surprise and we also spotted a Stork-billed Kingfisher on overhead wires. On our first morning at Kaziranga, we got down to the entrance to the Central Range early and were rewarded by distant but good scope views of a male Bengal Florican. It even did a couple of short display-flights. The rest of the day was taken up by jeep rides. Travelling through the Central and Western Ranges in our open-topped vehicles, we had great views of the ‘big four’ mammals, Asian

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Elephant, Asian One-horned Rhinoceros, Swamp Deer and wild Water Buffalo. There was the usual array of storks in good numbers (including at least 20 rare Black-necked this year), Swamp Francolins foraged in open grassy areas close to ‘safer’ tall stands of vegetation, and raptors made a generally good showing. Apart from the expected good views of Pallas’s and Grey-headed Fish-eagles and Changeable Hawk-eagle, we saw Pallid Harrier, Red-headed Vulture, and Steppe and Booted Eagles. Best of all were six Slender-billed Vultures that were hanging around two nests, as this species could well be in terminal decline now. In the shady riparian woodland we had great views of Kaleej Pheasant, Emerald Dove, Great Hornbill, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, and Ruby-cheeked and Crimson Sunbirds. The grasslands produced a few new birds for us, like Ashy Prinia and Black-breasted and Baya Weavers. We were also able to visit the Eastern Range for part of a morning. The huge lake (Sohola Bheel) was pretty low, and the birds somewhat distant, but several Grey-headed Lapwings were found. Behind our accommodation at Wild Grass, we visited tea gardens that are interspersed with bamboo-filled gullies. The main thing that we were hoping for here was Blue-naped Pitta. Fortunately we were in for a treat this year as, on two mornings running, we managed to get some really good views of one - first standing quite high-up in a bamboo clump, and then crossing tracks and trails through the tea bushes. Nearby, we had great views of a pair Brown Crakes totally out in the open. From Kaziranga we had a long drive to Shillong, for the last leg of the tour. We arrived there in pretty good time considering the major road improvements that are going on all along the way. On our first day in Meghalaya, we headed up to the forested ridge above the town (“Shillong Ridge”), at just under 1800m. This is a very birdy area, and we enjoyed a full and busy field-day, apart from losing an hour or two to rain after lunch. The forest edge quickly gave up Assam Laughingthrush and Rusty-capped Fulvetta, and we had brilliant uncharacteristically good views of a White-tailed Blue Robin. The morning was spent following a trail down into the mixed broadleaved evergreen and pine forest. Grey Sibias and Short-billed Minivets were common and, during our return along the stream gulley, we saw Chestnut-headed Tesia, a nice Spotted Forktail, and even a Yellow-bellied Weasel. After lunch we took in open areas and scrub, adding Striated Prinia and Buff-throated Warbler. Perhaps best of all were a pair of Jerdon’s Bazas drying themselves out in a treetop. Cuckoos were calling everywhere, and we saw Large Hawk-, Oriental and Eurasian. The next day saw us heading off for Cherrapunjee, one of the wettest places on earth. On the way, we spent the early morning hours birding at Duwan Sing Syiem View Point (formerly Mawkdok Bridge). The endemic Tawny-breasted Wren-babbler was quickly located but the first was only heard, and the second only seen briefly and rather poorly. There was nothing for it but to drop down into the stream valley and follow a little trail. We were very surprised to disturb a pair of Long-billed Ground-thrushes feeding along the boulder-strewn stream, and we got some good looks. We also finally got to grips with Pygmy Wren-babbler and Grey-bellied Tesia. At the end of the deep ravine we worked our way close to another singing Tawny-breasted Wren-babbler, and before long were having some really great views of a responsive pair. Other good birds near the bridge were Crested Finchbill and Black-throated Prinia. Breakfast was disrupted by a heavy downpour, and we moved on to the breathtaking Nohkallikai Falls. The clouds gradually cleared while we watched a very nice Brown Bush-warbler and a couple of Chestnut-eared Bunting. Soon, some Dark-rumped Swifts were spotted and they came up at eye-level before passing overhead. We were to see more at our lunch stop. As the tour drew to an end, all that was left was to drive down to Guwahati through all of the road works. There were some hold-ups but we arrived in good time. A brief visit to Baragaon Landfill on the outskirts of Guwahati was an experience as usual but it was hard to get an accurate count of the Greater Adjutants this year - the 80 that were logged being a lot less than were actually present. There surely is no other place like India, and it will always be a fantastic haven for birds.

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SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). PODICIPEDIDAE Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus: A good year, with four at Dibru Saikhowa National Park,

and five at Saikhowa Ghat. PELECANIDAE Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis: Five or so at Saikhowa Ghat, and over 100 in Kaziranga

National Park. The latter location is an important breeding site for this threatened species. PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger: The best counts were 130 at Dibru Saikhowa, and 250 at

Kaziranga NP. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: Widespread, particularly along the larger lowland rivers. ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: Regularly seen in small numbers at lowland wetlands. ARDEIDAE Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Common, particularly in the Assam plains. Great Egret Casmerodius albus: Regular sightings, but less common than the other egrets. Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia: Locally common, with over 100 logged at Kaziranga NP. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Scattered low numbers. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Quite a few at Kaziranga NP, and a couple on the way there. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Widespread and common on farmland. Indian Pond-heron Ardeola grayii: Widespread and common. One or two were coming into

breeding plumage. Little Heron (Striated H, Little Green H) Butorides striatus: Best seen at Dibru Saikhowa National

Park, where we counted five or so. Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax (H): Many were heard calling at night from our

camp at Miao. CICONIIDAE Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans: Common in the Assamese lowlands, particularly around

Kaziranga. Black Stork Ciconia nigra: A very good year for this species. A migrating flock of eight on the way to

Deban, six or so at Saikhowa Ghat, and ten or so migrating over the Mishmi Hills. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: At least 20 at Kaziranga NP. Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus: Kaziranga is a haven for this species, which is in

serious decline in Asia. We saw at least 20; perhaps our highest total to date. Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus: Regularly seen in the Assam plains; probably at least 80 in all. Greater Adjutant Leptoptilos dubius: Assam is now one of the World’s strongholds for this incredible

beast. The flock at Baragaon landfill on the outskirts of Guwahati, was hard to count this year, although a minimum of 80 were noted. At Kaziranga NP, we saw at least 17 and there was a single bird en route there from Dibrugarh.

THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: About twenty birds were noted in one of the few areas of wet fields

on the way to Kaziranga; between Teok and Laodoigarh. A write-in for the tour. Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus: Small numbers at Kaziranga, and on the way there.

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ANATIDAE Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygna javanica: Regular sightings in the Assam plains this time. Greylag Goose Anser anser: A flock of 22 heading over the Mishmi Hills, and three at Kaziranga NP. Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus: Seven at Saikhowa Ghat, and at least 200 at Kaziranga NP. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea: Present in good numbers. A flock of 40 were seen migrating

over the Mishmi Hills. Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna: Just a single bird in the Western Range of Kaziranga NP. Cotton Pygmy-goose (C Teal) Nettapus coromandelianus: Around 20 birds in the Eastern Range of

Kaziranga NP. Gadwall Anas strepera: Small numbers in the Assam plains. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope: As the last species. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: Just one male at Kaziranga NP. Indian Spot-billed Duck (Spot-billed D) Anas poecilorhyncha: Common in Dibru Saikhowa and

Kaziranga NP’s. These localities seem to be on the border of the ranges of Indian poecilorhyncha and haringtoni.

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: Two at Saikhowa Ghat and four at Kaziranga. Northern Pintail Anas acuta: Rather small numbers in the Assam plains. Garganey Anas querquedula: Five in the Eastern Range of Kaziranga NP. Eurasian Teal Anas crecca: Small numbers in the Assam plains. Ferruginous Pochard (F Duck) Aythya nyroca: Just 20 at Dibru Saikhowa NP. [Pochard sp. Aythya baeri x ?: An Aythya duck in the Western Range of Kaziranga NP had many of

the characteristics of a first-winter male Baer’s Pochard A. baeri, but may have been the result of hybridization with something like the next species, as it showed dull greyish flanks without obvious white, and little white on the undertail-coverts. It had the head shape, bill and neck structure of Baer’s, the head and neck were tinted greenish, the breast was brownish, and the eyes pale yellowish. Too distant to get record shots.]

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula: Four at Dibru Saikhowa NP and a flock of 52 on the Brahmaputra R at Saikhowa Ghat.

Common Merganser (Goosander) Mergus merganser: Just one female-type bird at Saikhowa Ghat. ACCIPITRIDAE Jerdon’s Baza Aviceda jerdoni: Great views of two drying themselves out at Shillong Ridge. We saw

it in exactly the same place in 2009, so perhaps they breed here. Oriental Honey-buzzard (Crested H-B) Pernis ptilorhyncus: Scattered sightings, including great

perched views of one in a tea plantation near Kaziranga NP. Black-winged Kite (B-shouldered K) Elanus caeruleus: Regularly encountered in the Assam plains. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Small numbers in the Assam plains, and many at Baragaon landfill.

Resident govinda. Black-eared Kite Milvus lineatus: In the Mishmi Hills, we were fortunate enough to witness the mass

migration of this species. Gathering in groups at the foot of the hills, they were rising on thermals and then heading east over the high ridges near Mayodia. A total of 530 were counted. Probably also present at Baragaon landfill but we didn’t hang around long enough to study them.

Pallas’s Fish-eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphus: Seen on several occasions at Kaziranga NP; one of its best sites in the world. At least ten in all.

Lesser Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga humilis: A worn adult was seen at a wetland area on the way to Kaziranga; between Teok and Laodoigarh

Grey-headed Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus: Seen regularly at Kaziranga NP, at least eight in all.

White-rumped Vulture Gyps bengalensis: Three to five birds were seen at Saikhowa Ghat. This species has been hit hard by the Diclofenac fiasco.

8 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Slender-billed Vulture Gyps tenuirostris: We were very fortunate to see six birds around two nests in the Central Range of Kaziranga NP; apparently all adults. A recent split from Gyps indicus, which is now called Indian Vulture, Slender-billed extends into SE Asia, but is becoming increasingly rare, and could easily become functionally extinct in the Indian subcontinent.

Himalayan Vulture (H Griffon) Gyps himalayensis: This is now the default vulture in the northern Indian subcontinent and much of South-East Asia. Juveniles travel for great distances, and have now been recorded as far south as Singapore and the Riau Archipelago in Indonesia. It does not seem to have been affected by Diclofenac. We saw over 70 during the tour, including three that were apparently migrating over the Mishmi Hills.

Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvus: Just one briefly in the Central Range of Kaziranga NP. Crested Serpent-eagle Spilornis cheela: Scattered sightings as usual. Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus: A male at Dibru Saikhowa and another bird at Kaziranga. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus: A first year female at Kaziranga NP was a write-in. Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus: Several at Saikhowa Ghat, and at least five males migrating over the

Mishmi Hills. Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos: A handful of fantastic males at scattered sites in the Assam plains. Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus: Two near Deban, including one scoped. Shikra Accipiter badius: Occasional sightings. Besra Accipiter virgatus: A male was scoped by the Deban River; a surprising write-in for this tour. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: Scattered sightings, with one migrant noted at the Mishmi

Hills. Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus: Three heading over the Mishmi Hills with other raptors, and

one at Digboi. Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus: I first year bird was seen migrating eastward towards the Mishmi

Hills at Nizam Ghat. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Frequent encounters this time. Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga: Three migrants were noted at the Mishmi Hills.. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: Rod had one going over at the Mishmi Hills, and we all had great

views of a rather tame first year bird at Kaziranga. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: One gliding over at Kaziranga NP. Changeable Hawk-eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus: Good perched views at Kaziranga. Several seen. PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Five different birds in the Assam plains. FALCONIDAE Pied Falconet Microhierax melanoleucos: Easily seen again this year, with four or five at Namdapha

Tiger Reserve; particularly behind Hornbill Camp. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Occasional sightings throughout the tour, including five

migrating over the Mishmi Hills. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: An adult male ‘Shaheen Falcon’ (race peregrinator) at Deban. PHASIANIDAE Swamp Francolin Francolinus gularis: As usual, this highly localized species was seen very well in

Kaziranga National Park, and also briefly at Dibru Saikhowa NP. Hill Partridge (Common Hill-partridge) Arborophila torqueola: Three were seen typically briefly in

the Mishmi Hills, and a number of others heard. Rufous-throated Partridge (R-t Hill-partridge) Arborophila rufogularis (H): Heard distantly above

Deban, and several times in the Mishmi Hills. White-cheeked Partridge (W-c Hill-partridge) Arborophila atrogularis: Frequently heard while

trekking at Namdapha TR. One bird was tempted across a trail, and paused to give very nice views. It even appeared in someone’s top five.

9 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Chestnut-breasted Partridge (C-b Hill-partridge) Arborophila mandellii: It was a big bonus to get some very good views (for some of us) of this rare east Himalayan speciality; with a calling bird responding well to playback in the Mishmi Hills. Two or three others were heard in their narrow elevation band.

Mountain Bamboo Partridge Bambusicola fytchii (H): Calling loudly at dusk on Shillong Ridge. Blyth’s Tragopan Tragopan blythii (H): Only heard twice this year in the Mishmi Hills. The atrocious

weather that descended on us made it quite impossible to seek it out. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Very tame and easy to see from the jeeps in Kaziranga National Park.

A couple heard elsewhere. Kaleej Pheasant (Kalij P) Lophura leucomelanos: Some fantastic views this year, particularly at

Kaziranga NP, where it seems to be getting tamer and tamer. We even had a male displaying at our jeep. All of the birds were of the race lathami, the male of which is dark all over apart from the heavy white scaling on its rump and uppertail-coverts.

Grey Peacock-pheasant Polyplectron bicalcaratum: Ridiculously good views of a female, that flew down to drink from a stream right in front of us, near Miao. Commonly heard at Namdapha.

RALLIDAE White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Scattered sightings. Brown Crake Porzana akool: Brilliant views of a pair along a stream near Wild Grass, Kaziranga. Grey-headed Swamphen Porphyrio poliocephalus: Best seen on the way to Kaziranga, where we had

at least 200 in a marshy area between Teok and Laodoigarh. Otherwise just one at Kaziranga NP and 20 at Dibru Saikhowa.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Frequent in lowland wetlands, with 60 at Dibru Saikhowa NP.

OTIDIDAE Bengal Florican Houbaropsis bengalensis: At Kaziranga National Park, we had prolonged, distant but

very nice scope views of a male foraging, and occasionally displaying near the entrance to the Central Range. At Nizam Ghat, in the lowlands adjacent to the Mishmi Hills, we had superb close flight views of a calling female. Great to see both sexes for a change.

JACANIDAE Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus: Small numbers in the Assam plains. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus: Common at plains wetlands, with a high count of 30 en

route to Kaziranga. ROSTRATULIDAE Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis: Karel found two in some newly developing habitat

by the Deban River at Namdapha. Another was flushed in similar marshy habitat at Nizam Ghat. An unexpected write-in.

CHARADRIIDAE Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: 12 around Saikhowa Ghat, and around 30 at Kaziranga NP. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Small numbers in the Assam plains. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: Frequently seen on riverine mud- and sand-flats. Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus: Scattered throughout Kaziranga, with at least 16 counted. River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii: A few along the various rivers. Grey-headed Lapwing Vanellus cinereus: Three in the Eastern Range of Kaziranga NP. Assam is an

important wintering area for this attractive lapwing. Red-wattled Lapwing (R-w Plover) Vanellus indicus: Regular, scattered sightings of this resident. Two

small chicks were being accompanied by an adult at Kaziranga.

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SCOLOPACIDAE Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura: Two flushed from drier areas at Dibru Saikhowa. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: Commonly seen this year. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: At least 85 Kaziranga NP. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Fairly common in the Assam plains, but in low numbers. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Regularly seen in small numbers. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Common in marshy lowland areas. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Scattered occasional sightings along rivers. Little Stint Calidris minuta: Three with the next species at Saikhowa Ghat. Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii: Common, with over 60 at Saikhowa Ghat and 85 at

Kaziranga. Dunlin Calidris alpina: Six in non-breeding plumage at Saikhowa Ghat. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii: Nice scope views of a pair along the Noa Dihing River at Deban;

though they took some tracking-down! BURHINIDAE Indian Stone-curlew (I Thick-knee) Burhinus indicus: Two were seen well at Saikhowa Ghat, and

another flushed at Nizam Ghat. This is a recent split from Eurasian Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus; being very distinct in its proportions and vocalizations.

GLAREOLIDAE Small Pratincole Glareola lactea: 300 at Miao, six at Deban, and ten at Nizam Ghat. Some great

close views. LARIDAE Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus: Four or five at Saikhowa Ghat. COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (R Dove) Columba livia: Widespread in relatively small numbers. Speckled Woodpigeon Columba hodgsonii: A flock of four in the Mishmi Hills, which we managed

to get some half decent scope views of. An unexpected write-in. Ashy Woodpigeon Columba pulchricollis: Just one in flight at Namdapha. Oriental Turtle Dove (Rufous T D) Streptopelia orientalis: Regularly seen during the latter part of the

tour, at Kaziranga and in Meghalaya. Resident agricola. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Widespread and common. Red Collared-dove Streptopelia tranquebarica: Mainly at Kaziranga NP, where it is quite common. Barred Cuckoo-dove Macropygia unchall: Occasionally seen in Namdapha TR and in the Mishmi

Hills, and heard at Duwan Sing Syiem View Point, near Shillong. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: Regularly seen, particularly on forest tracks and trails. In the

Central Range of Kaziranga NP, we counted eight along a track through woodland. Yellow-footed Green-pigeon Treron phoenicoptera: Good numbers at Digboi and at Kaziranga NP. Pin-tailed Green-pigeon Treron apicauda: Common in Namdapha TR. Wedge-tailed Green-pigeon Treron apicauda (NL): Sudesh’s car-load saw a few while driving down

through the Mishmi Hills. Green Imperial-pigeon Ducula aenea: Small numbers at Kaziranga . Mountain Imperial-pigeon Ducula badia: Common at Namdapha TR, and a few in the Mishmi Hills. PSITTACIDAE Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria: Regularly seen, with at least 70 at Kaziranga NP. Rose-ringed Parakeet (Ring-necked P) Psittacula krameri: Notably less common than the last species. Blossom-headed Parakeet (Rosy-headed P) Psittacula roseata: Just three at Kaziranga NP.

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Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri: Over 100 seen, mainly at Kaziranga. CUCULIDAE Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: Small numbers at scattered sites. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: Seen at Dibru Saikhowa and Shillong Ridge. Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis: Occasional. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea: Often heard in the plains, with a couple seen. Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii: Scope views at Namdapha TR and heard at Nizam

Ghat. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus: Easily seen in the Tea Garden, near Wild Grass, and heard

at Duwan Sing Syiem View Point, near Shillong. At 1820m elevation, the latter site is getting high for this species.

Square-tailed Drongo-cuckoo Surniculus lugubris: A calling bird came in right on cue at Digboi. Heard near Wild Grass, Kaziranga.

Large Hawk-cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides: Often heard, with one seen in flight at Shillong Ridge.

Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus (H): Sang once at the Tea Garden near Wild Grass. Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus: Scoped at Shillong Ridge, where a couple were singing. Eurasian Cuckoo Cuculus canorus: A brilliantly responsive bird at Shillong Ridge, and another heard. TYTONIDAE Oriental Bay Owl Phodilus badius (H): Two were calling after dark at Hornbill Camp, Namdapha

TR. We just couldn’t catch up with them. STRIGIDAE Mountain Scops-owl Otus spilocephalus (H): Commonly heard at Namdapha TR and in the Mishmi

Hills. Oriental Scops-owl Otus sunia: Four were heard at Namdapha, and one seen (rather too briefly) at

our camp on the outskirts of Miao. Collared Scops-owl Otus lettia: Brilliant views of one, for all of us, at Namdapha. There was another

leader-only bird, and it was commonly heard here as well as one at lower elevation in the Mishmi Hills.

Spot-bellied Eagle-owl Bubo nipalensis (H): One called very loudly as we were working on the Hodgson’s Frogmouth at Namdapha. Unfortunately it was on a mission, and never called again.

Brown Fish-owl Ketupa zeylonensis: Seen briefly perched and then in flight just inside the Central Range of Kaziranga NP.

Brown Wood-owl Strix leptogrammica (H): One was calling from an inaccessible gully during filthy weather at the Mishmi Hills.

Himalayan Wood-owl Strix nivicola: We managed to get scope views of a calling bird from the resthouse at Mayodia; though little more than a silhouette.

Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei: Great scope views of an annoyed calling bird at Namdapha TR. Commonly heard here and in the Mishmi Hills.

Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides: Regularly seen in lowland areas, about 11 in all. Spotted Owlet Athene brama: Two confiding individuals at Kaziranga NP. Brown Boobook (B Hawk-owl) Ninox scutulata: Superb views of a pair by our camp at Gibbon’s

Land (10-mile Camp), Namdapha. A couple of others were heard. PODARGIDAE Hodgson’s Frogmouth Batrachostomus hodgsoni: Voted third best bird of the tour, we had very good

walk-away views of a male near Hornbill, Namdapha. Also heard from Ipra’s 14km camp at Mishmi.

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APODIDAE Himalayan Swiftlet Collocalia brevirostris: Commonly seen this year, probably with some migration

going on. Silver-backed Needletail Hirundapus cochinchinensis: About 80 at Namdapha. Brown-backed Needletail (Brown-throated N, Brown N) Hirundapus cochinchinensis: 20 or so at

Digboi. Asian Palm-swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: Regularly seen during the tour. Pacific Swift (Fork-tailed S) Apus pacificus: At least ten birds in the Mishmi Hills, were thought to be

migrants of this species. The former race kanoi is a synonym. Several other forms have now been split-off as distinct species.

Dark-rumped Swift Apus acuticauda: Once the rain clouds passed in the Cherrapunjee area, we had some good views of this little-known and highly localized swift.

House Swift Apus affinis: Random sightings, often near large bridges. HEMIPROCNIDAE Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata: Just one briefly at Namdapha. TROGONIDAE Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus: This beauty was frequently recorded. Ward’s Trogon Harpactes wardi: Some very nice looks at a male in the Mishmi Hills, once it finally

decided to show itself. Equal fifth favourite bird of the trip. ALCEDINIDAE Blyth’s Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Amazing prolonged scope views of one standing on a stream-side

rock near Gibbon’s Land (10-mile Camp), Namdapha NP. A clear winner of bird of the tour!

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Occasional sightings at scattered sites. Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon capensis: One in open wet fields on the way to Kaziranga. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis: Common and widespread. With the splitting-off of

the Philippine form, this should now be referred to as White-breasted Kingfisher. Himalayan Pied Kingfisher (Crested K) Megaceryle lugubris: One seen and another heard at

Namdapha. Lesser Pied Kingfisher (Pied K) Ceryle rudis: Common and widespread. MEROPIDAE Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni: Many sightings at Namdapha this year, and another at

Kaziranga. Little Green Bee-eater (Green B-e) Merops orientalis: Small numbers at Saikhowa Ghat and

Kaziranga NP. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Small numbers of this attractive bee-eater at Kaziranga. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti: Quite common at Kaziranga NP. CORACIIDAE Black-billed Roller Coracias affinis: Common and widespread. This distinctive form is often

considered conspecific with Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis. Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: Three near Gibbon’s Land (10-mile camp), Namdapha. UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe (Eurasian H) Upupa epops: Regularly seen in more open lowland areas. BUCEROTIDAE Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris: One at Digboi and six in a small tree at Kaziranga

NP.

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Great Hornbill (G Pied H) Buceros bicornis: Common at Namdapha TR, with a pair seen mating. Also a very tame individual in a fruiting tree at Kaziranga. So impressive!

White-throated Brown Hornbill (Northern B H, Rusty-cheeked H, Austen’s Brown H) Anorrhinus austeni: A pair were scoped briefly in Namdapha TR; appropriately enough at Hornbill Camp!

Rufous-necked Hornbill Aceros nipalensis: Quite common in Namdapha TR, and seen on many occasions. A pair at remarkably high elevation near Mayodia Pass were a shock, and another was heard in the Mishmi Hills. One of the most attractive Asian hornbills.

MEGALAIMIDAE Great Barbet Megalaima virens: Common and regularly seen. Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata: Common at Kaziranga NP and also locally at Namdapha. Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii: Widespread in upland areas and regularly seen. Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica: Widespread and very common throughout. Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis: Regularly heard, with two sightings at Namdapha TR. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala: Several in the plains. PICIDAE Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus: Several sightings at Namdapha TR. White-browed Piculet Sasia ochracea: Small numbers of this little cutie at Namdapha. Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus: Two or three near Wild Grass,

Kaziranga NP. Fulvous-breasted Pied Woodpecker Dendrocopos macei: A male at Deban, a pair near Wild Grass,

Kaziranga, and a single non-leader bird at Shillong Ridge. Stripe-breasted Pied Woodpecker (S-b Woodpecker) Dendrocopos atratus: A pair and a non-leader

male were identified at Shillong Ridge. The broad black band on the upper mantle and deep red undertail-coverts were clearly seen through the scope, but the face appeared rather buffy for this species.

Crimson-breasted Pied Woodpecker (C-b Woodpecker) Dendrocopos cathpharius: Two nice males at Mishmi.

Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker (D Woodpecker) Dendrocopos darjellensis: Two males and a female at Mishmi. Great views.

Rufous Woodpecker Celeus brachyurus: One in flight at Namdapha, and several heard. Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus: Common at Namdapha TR. Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha: Just three showed at Namdapha. Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus: Two pairs and a singleton at Kaziranga NP. Grey-faced Woodpecker (G-headed W) Picus canus: Frequent throughout, though most commonly

heard. Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense: A handful at both Namdapha TR and Kaziranga

NP. Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus: A few at both Namdapha TR and Kaziranga NP. Pale-headed Woodpecker Gecinulus grantia: Several encounters in the bamboo at Namdapha TR,

but a right pain in the a** for everyone to get onto. Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis: Regularly heard and seen (mainly flying). Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus: A nice lengthy encounter with a noisy wing-

flirting flock of five. EURYLAIMIDAE Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae: Just when we thought we had left this species behind,

we had amazing views of a flock of six birds not far from Roing; after very heavy rain. Heard once at Namdapha.

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PITTIDAE Blue-naped Pitta Pitta nipalensis: This year, we totally got-to-grips with this tough pitta near Wild

Grass, Kaziranga. On consecutive mornings we were able to get some great looks at one in bamboo and an adjacent tea plantation; the first time the leader had seen the species since 1979! Voted second favourite bird of the tour.

ALAUDIDAE Bengal Bushlark Mirafra assamica: Two at Saikhowa Ghat. Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla: Surprising numbers at Saikhowa Ghat, where

several flocks totalled around 250 birds. Sand Lark Calandrella raytal: Commonly seen along riverine sand- and mudflats this year. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula: Widespread and quite common. HIRUNDINIDAE Grey-throated Sand-martin (Plain Martin, Brown-t SM) Riparia chinensis: Fairly common along the

larger rivers throughout. Actively breeding at Deban. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: A common wintering and passage species in the Assam plains. Striated Swallow Hirundo striolata: A small number from Digboi to Shillong, including some

collecting mud from the roadside as we came down from the latter place. Nepal House-martin Delichon nipalensis: Flocks were seen twice in the Mishmi Hills, with a total of

32 logged, and there were about 50 seen from the Polo Orchid Resort near Cherrapunjee. MOTACILLIDAE White Wagtail Motacilla [alba] alba: Just a few scattered sightings. Himalayan Wagtail Motacilla [alba] alboides: Common along the larger rivers. A black-backed and

throated- form which breeds in Arunachal Pradesh. Amur Wagtail Motacilla [alba] leucopsis: This wintering white-faced, black-backed wagtail was

widely and commonly recorded. Swinhoe’s Wagtail Motacilla [alba] ocularis: Ten of these eye-striped wagtails were counted in one

area at Dibru Saikhowa. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola: Common and widespread in the Assam plains. Breeding

plumaged birds of the grey-backed race citreola were noted. Grey-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] thunbergi: Good numbers in the plains this year. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Many scattered sightings. Richard’s Pipit Anthus richardi: A small number were noted on the river-flats at Dibru Saikhowa,

Saikhowa Ghat, and Nizam Ghat. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: Scattered sightings. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Common and frequently seen, particularly in the Mishmi Hills. Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus: A common wintering and passage species in the plains. One or two were

starting to attain breeding plumage. Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta: A single blakistoni in breeding plumage at Nizam Ghat. Somewhat

east of its normal range in the subcontinent, and a write-in for the tour. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei: Occasional widespread sightings. Black-winged Cuckooshrike Coracina melaschistos: Occasional. Rosy Minivet Pericrocotus roseus: A pair at Miao and one at Kaziranga NP. Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris: Small numbers at Namdapha TR and the Mishmi Hills. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus: Just one flock of eight briefly near Mayodia Pass, Mishmi

Hills. Short-billed Minivet Pericrocotus brevirostris: Fairly common at Shillong Ridge.

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Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus: Widespread and quite common, except at the higher levels. South Indian and Sri Lankan flammeus is now treated as a different species, Orange Minivet.

Pied Flycatcher-shrike (Bar-winged F-s) Hemipus picatus: Small numbers of this unusual ‘minivet’ were seen at scattered locations.

Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis gularis: A handful at Namdapha. MONARCHIDAE Black-naped Blue Monarch (B-n Monarch) Hypothymis azurea: A responsive male in the Central

Range, Kaziranga NP. RHIPIDURIDAE White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: Regularly encountered. Yellow-bellied Fantail Chelidorhynx hypoxantha: Quite common in Namdapha TR. PYCNONOTIDAE Crested Finchbill Spizixos canifrons: We were able to look down on several of these unusual bulbuls

at Duwan Sing Syiem View Point, near Shillong. Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus: This attractive tree-top bulbul was common at Mishmi. Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus: a few at Namdapha. Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus: This bulbul was common in lowland non-forest,

reaching the mid-levels in the Mishmi Hills. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer: The commonest and most widespread bulbul during the tour. Flavescent Bulbul Pycnonotus flavescens: Five at Shillong Ridge. White-throated Bulbul Alophoixus flaveolus: Common at Namdapha TR. Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala: Also common at Namdapha. Mountain Bulbul Hypsipetes mcclellandii: Just a few in the Mishmi Hills. The warm-tinged nominate

race. Himalayan Black Bulbul (Black B) Hypsipetes leucocephalus: Commonly recorded. Birds in SW

India and Sri Lanka are now considered to be another species, Square-tailed Black Bulbul H. ganeesa.

AEGITHINIDAE Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: Small numbers in the Kaziranga area. CHLOROPSEIDAE Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons: A handful at Namdapha TR and singles at Mishmi and

Kaziranga. Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis: A few in the tree-tops at Namdapha TR. Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii: Common at Namdapha TR, and in the Mishmi Hills. LANIIDAE Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: Frequent scattered sightings. Both black and grey-crowned birds

were noted. Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus: The commonest wintering shrike in all areas visited. CINCLIDAE Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasi: Four or five along the rushing rocky rivers in the vicinity of Deban. TROGLODYTIDAE Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes (H): One heard briefly opposite Mayodia Guesthouse.

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PRUNELLIDAE Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata: At least eight around the buildings at Tewarigaon,

Mishmi Hills; foraging with Olive-backed Pipits and Little Buntings. Maroon-backed Accentor Prunella immaculata: This scarce accentor was seen well by the lucky few

on a roadside verge in the Mishmi Hills. TURDIDAE Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina (NL): Bill saw one at Namdapha. Small-billed Scaly Thrush (Scaly T) Zoothera dauma: One briefly at Kaziranga NP; seen best by

Diane. Long-billed Ground-thrush (L-b Thrush) Zoothera monticola: Another unexpected write-in. After

hearing one giving its mournful song in the Mishmi Hills, we had some good looks at one of a pair that live along the rocky stream gully below Duwan Sing Syiem View Point, near Shillong.

Blue Whistling-thrush Myophonus caeruleus: Quite common, particularly along the roadside in the Mishmi Hills.

Green Cochoa Cochoa viridis: Two superb males were scoped at different locations in Namdapha TR. Another great year for this much wanted species. Voted fourth favourite bird of the tour.

MUSCICAPIDAE Dark-sided Flycatcher Muscicapa sibirica: One at Shillong Ridge. Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher (Orange-g F) Ficedula strophiata: Common at higher levels in the Mishmi

Hills, but just one at Namdapha and another at Shillong Ridge. Red-throated Flycatcher (Taiga F) Ficedula albicilla: Occasional sightings towards the end of the tour. White-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula monileger (H): Often heard in the Mishmi Hills, but a bugger to

get onto due to the steep terrain. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra: Two pairs at Shillong Ridge. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: Regularly encountered. Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor: Heard a couple of times at Namdapha and then seen twice at

Mishmi; including a nice male. The nominate race. Sapphire Flycatcher Ficedula sapphira: A female-type, calling from typically high up in the trees at

Namdapha TR. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina: Small numbers, and scattered. A breeding visitor to the

higher levels, rather than a resident (contra Rasmussen & Anderton). Large Niltava Niltava grandis: Quite common at Namdapha TR. Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae: Regular sightings at Namdapha. Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara: Two lovely males at Shillong. Pale-chinned Flycatcher Cyornis poliogenys: One showed very well in a bamboo grove near Wild

Grass, Kaziranga. Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor: Quite a few were singing at Namdapha, but only the first

responded in any way to playback. Blue-throated Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides: Two males at Namdapha; a breeding visitor. This,

the nominate race, can show an orange triangle on the throat-centre. Pygmy Blue Flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni: This rather aberrant, flowerpecker-like flycatcher was

frequently encountered at Namdapha and also seen in the Mishmi Hills. Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis: Frequent sightings of this bird-wave sentinel. Chestnut-bellied Rock-thrush Monticola rufiventris: A male not far from Mayodia Pass, Mishmi Hills. Blue Rock-thrush Monticola solitarius: One at the Iora, Kaziranga. Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys: One showed rather poorly at Namdapha, and a number

heard at the Mishmi Hills, and Shillong Ridge. White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana: One showed while we were trying to get out a

Spotted Wren-babbler in the Mishmi Hills.

17 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Himalayan Rubythroat (White-tailed R) Luscinia pectoralis: We did amazingly well for this beauty, seeing five at Dibru Saikhowa NP and one at Kaziranga NP.

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica: No fewer than 15 At Dibru Saikhowa NP, and smaller numbers at Saikhowa Ghat and Kaziranga NP.

Himalayan Bluetail (H Red-flanked Bush-robin, H R-f Bluetail) Tarsiger rufilatus: Single elusive birds at Deban and in the Mishmi Hills; and another heard only near Shillong. Recently split from Red-flanked Bluetail (Orange-flanked Bush-robin, Northern R-f B) T. cyanurus.

White-browed Bush-robin Tarsiger indicus: Two different female-type birds in the Mishmi Hills. Rufous-breasted Bush-robin Tarsiger hyperythrus: Just one female by the roadside in the Mishmi

Hills. The last of the wintering birds. Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis: Regularly seen near habitation. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: One male eventually showed well at Kaziranga NP.

Heard at several other locations. Rather shy in this part of the world. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros: Several males from Saikhowa Ghat to Kaziranga. Hodgson’s Redstart Phoenicurus hodgsoni: We saw a handful of different females in rocky riverine

habitats, but not a single male! Daurian Redstart Phoenicurus auroreus: Bill found us a female at Tewarigaon, Mishmi Hills. Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis: Six in the Mishmi Hills, and a pair in the Shillong area. White-capped Water-redstart (W-c River-chat, River Chat) Chaimarrornis leucocephalus: Frequently

seen in suitable habitat throughout. Plumbeous Water-redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus: Somewhat less common than the last species. White-tailed Blue Robin (W-t Robin) Myiomela leucura: A male performed superbly for us at

Shillong Ridge, and it was commonly heard in Meghalaya, with a single singing at Namdapha. A widespread skulker.

Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri: One was scoped, but rather too briefly, at Deban. Black-backed Forktail Enicurus immaculatus: One fleetingly near Miao, on the way to Namdapha

TR. Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus: Commonly seen this time. Northern White-crowned Forktail Enicurus sinensis: Two singles at Namdapha TR, with very nice

scope views of one. This form was formerly lumped in E. leschenaulti, under the name White-crowned Forktail. The montane Bornean form is also split-off now.

Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus: One in the Mishmi Hills, and five in the Shillong are. Some good views in the end.

Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura: Widespread, and particularly common in grassy areas. Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea (H): Surprisingly, it was only heard at Shillong Ridge. TIMALIIDAE White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus: The “laughing goblins” were regularly

encountered at Namdapha. Heard in the Mishmi Hills. Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax monileger: Great views of several flocks at Namdapha. Striated Laughingthrush Grammatoptila striata: The commonest laughingthrush at Mishmi. Chestnut-backed Laughingthrush Dryonastes nuchalis: We were very lucky to get a crack at this one,

when our access was denied to Digboi Oilfields. With time running-out, we managed to find a new site but not all of us got onto the pair that we tracked down. Still mad it into someone’s top five birds!!

Rufous-necked Laughingthrush Dryonastes ruficollis: Excellent prolonged views of small flocks at Dibru Saikhowa NP, Digboi and the Tea Garden behind Wild Grass, Kaziranga.

Grey-sided Laughingthrush Dryonastes caerulatus (NL): Jonathan was lucky enough to see one at Namdapha TR.

Blue-winged Laughingthrush Trochalopteron squamatum: One was feeding with Rusty-fronted Barwings during a break in the rain at Tewarigaon, Mishmi Hills.

Assam Laughingthrush Garrulax chrysopterum: Elusive, but seen well enough by all this year at Shillong Ridge. A recent split from the last species.

18 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Abbott’s Babbler Malacocincla abbotti (H): Heard singing once at Kaziranga. Buff-breasted Babbler Pellorneum tickelli (H): Heard once at Namdapha. Marsh Babbler Pellorneum palustre: Our luck was out again with this rare Assam plains endemic. A

singing bird showed totally in the open for the leader, but unfortunately it was the wrong angle for everyone else!

Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps: Seen well in the Tea Garden, near Kaziranga. Large Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus hypoleucos (H): Several rather distant heard birds at

Namdapha TR. White-browed Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps: One was seen very nicely at Namdapha

TR. Subspecies cryptanthus. Streak-breasted Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis: Seen very well on two occasions in the

Mishmi Hills. East Himalayan godwini. Orange-billed Scimitar-babbler (Red-billed S-b) Pomatorhinus ochraceiceps: Some good views of at

least three in a mega bamboo bird-wave at Namdapha TR. Coral-billed Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus ferruginosus: One briefly at Namdapha, and then three

showing really well in bananas at he Mishmi Hills. The black-capped nominate race at the latter location, and brown-capped stanfordi at the former.

Sickle-billed Scimitar-babbler (Slender-b S-b) Xiphirhynchus superciliaris: Some excellent views of this crippler in high elevation bamboo in the Mishmi Hills.

Streaked Wren-babbler Napothera brevicaudata: A rather tame bird in one of its usual places at Namdapha TR

Eyebrowed Wren-babbler Napothera epilepidota (H): Heard but once, and distantly, at Namdapha TR.

Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler Pnoepyga albiventer: A bonus sighting when the leader was taping-out our first Bar-winged Wren-babbler.

Pygmy Wren-babbler Pnoepyga pusilla: After hearing many, and seeing one briefly, we all had good looks at Duwan Sing Syiem View Point, near Shillong.

Mishmi Wren-babbler Spelaeornis badeigularis: Absolutely superb views of one of these little crackers by the roadside in the Mishmi Hills; and at least ten others heard. Voted equal fifth bird of the tour.

Bar-winged Wren-babbler Spelaeornis troglodytoides: The first one that we tried at the higher levels of the Mishmi Hills was slightly elusive, but the second one showed absolutely brilliantly. Race souliei.

Spotted Wren-babbler Spelaeornis formosus (H): A right pain this year, despite the fact that several were heard at Namdapha, Mishmi and Shillong!

Tawny-breasted Wren-babbler Spelaeornis longicaudatus: After some work at Duwan Sing Syiem View Point, we had first class views of a highly responsive calling pair. Another was seen briefly and a couple heard here, but it was completely silent at Shillong Ridge. Weird! An inhabitant of dense fern-growth and other low vegetation at the edge of forest, with a tiny range in north-east India.

Cachar Wedge-billed Babbler (Chevron-breasted B) Sphenocichla roberti: Very nice views of a singing male at Mishmi, and a couple of others heard.

Rufous-fronted Babbler Stachyris rufifrons: Seen very well at Namdapha, and in bamboo bordering the Tea Garden near Kaziranga NP.

Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps: A couple at Namdapha, and then common in the Mishmi Hills.

Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea: Quite common at Namdapha, and lower down in the Mishmi Hills. One at Shillong.

Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps: Regular sightings. The race coltarti at Namdapha Snowy-throated Babbler Stachyris oglei: The best year ever, with a pair totally on show for all of us.

Only known from this region, and adjacent N Myanmar. Pin-striped Tit-babbler (Striped T-b) Macronous gularis: We had regular scattered sightings of this

common and widespread species.

19 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Chestnut-capped Babbler Timalia pileata: Seen on several occasions in the grasslands of the Assam plains.

Jerdon’s Babbler Chrysomma altirostre: Great views of three at Dibru Saikhowa, on the south side of the river, and several others heard. It is restricted to extensive grasslands throughout a very patchy range; and the local race is the relatively warm, dark griseigulare.

Striated Babbler Turdoides earlei: Good views at Dibru Saikhowa, Saikhowa Ghat, and Nizam Ghat and Kaziranga NP’s, at least 24 in all.

Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris: Common at Namdapha TR, and also quite a few in the Shillong area.

Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea: About ten, with their Blackcap-like songs, at Shillong Ridge. Good views in the end.

White-hooded Babbler Gampsorhynchus rufulus: Some great views at Namdapha TR. Usually in bamboo, where they form the nucleus of bird-waves. The call differs markedly to that of the races found in South-East Asia, which are now treated as a separate species, Collared Babbler G. torquatus.

Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni: Fairly small numbers at Namdapha, Mishmi, and Shillong. Subspecies lewisi at the former two sites, and khasiana in Meghalaya.

Streak-throated Barwing Actinodura waldeni: A pair showed really well for us in some mossy oaks in the Mishmi Hills. One of the striking races, saturatior.

Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera: Common and widespread. Bar-throated Minla (Chestnut-tailed M) Minla strigula: Common at the higher levels in the Mishmi

Hills. Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta: Just one in a bird-wave at Namdapha TR. The most striking minla. Golden-breasted Fulvetta Alcippe chrysotis: This gorgeous gem was seen on many occasions in

bamboo in the Mishmi Hills. Yellow-throated Fulvetta Alcippe cinerea: Only seen a couple of times in the Mishmi Hills, but well

enough. Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps: Seen well in all montane regions. Manipur Fulvetta (Streak-throated F) Alcippe manipurensis: Common higher up in the Mishmi Hills,

overlapping with the next species. Ludlow’s Fulvetta (Brown-throated F) Alcippe ludlowi: This superb little fulvetta had the last species

to contend with in the Mishmi Hills, and was found in bamboo at the highest levels. An injured or sick bird was picked up by the leader but flew off strongly enough

Rufous-throated Fulvetta Alcippe rufogularis: Responded admirably at Namdapha TR, where it was fairly common, though skulking.

Rusty-capped Fulvetta Alcippe dubia: Very good views of a pair at Shillong Ridge, one of which was holding nest-material. The well-marked race mandellii.

Nepal Fulvetta Alcippe nipalensis: Common at Namdapha, and at the lower levels in the Mishmi Hills. The typical ‘nun-babbler” of the north-east.

Rufous-backed Sibia Heterophasia annectans: This beautiful, boldly-patterned sibia was seen in bird-waves at Namdapha TR, with three noted in all.

Grey Sibia Heterophasia gracilis: Common and easily seen in the Shillong area. Like the next species, one of the specialities of the tour.

Beautiful Sibia Heterophasia pulchella: Apparently not so beautiful, but common enough at Namdapha TR and in the Mishmi Hills.

Long-tailed Sibia Heterophasia picaoides: This unmistakable babbler was frequently seen at Namdapha and in the Mishmi Hills; seeking-out nectar.

Striated Yuhina Yuhina castaniceps: About 25 near Deban, and 30 at the lower levels in the Mishmi Hills.

White-naped Yuhina Yuhina bakeri: Common and easily seen at the mid levels in the Mishmi Hills. Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis: Scattered sightings of this widespread yuhina. Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis: Common at the high levels in the Mishmi Hills.

20 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Rufous-vented Yuhina Yuhina occipitalis: A handful of these nectar-feeders crossed our path at Mishmi, but didn’t hang around.

Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta: Relatively small numbers were seen well by all of us in Namdapha TR. Heard at Mishmi.

Grey-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis gularis: One showed pretty well at the highest elevation that we reached in Namdapha TR.

Fulvous Parrotbill Paradoxornis fulvifrons: One of the most memorable experiences of the tour was getting in amongst a hyper-active flock of 60 of these great little birds in bamboo along the monal trail, Mishmi Hills.

Grey-breasted Parrotbill Paradoxornis poliotis: This recent split from Black-throated (or Grey-capped) Parrotbill P. nipalensis showed extremely well at Mishmi; a flock of 30 or so.

Lesser Rufous-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis atrosuperciliaris: Two were seen, fairly briefly, with the next species.

Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill (Blue-spectacled P) Paradoxornis bakeri: Multiple great views of about 12 birds in a bamboo bird-wave at Namdapha TR. This is a split from White-breasted Parrotbill P. ruficeps (formerly called Great Rufous-headed), and includes the eastern race, magnirostris.

Blyth’s Shrike-babbler Pteruthius aeralatus: Elusive this year, only being seen at Shillong Ridge. One of four species resulting from the division of the former White-browed Shrike-babbler P. flaviscapis. Shrike-babblers are completely unrelated to babblers and are now placed in the Vireonidae.

Black-eared Shrike-babbler Pteruthius melanotis: Three at Namdapha and two at Mishmi. White-bellied Erpornis (W-b Yuhina) Yuhina zantholeuca: Common at Namdapha, the lower

elevations at Mishmi, and also in the Shillong area. Recent DNA sampling shows that this species is utterly unrelated to other yuhinas, and not even a babbler. It is also now placed in the Vireonidae.

CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola exilis: A common and widespread short grassland species. Bright-capped Cisticola (B-headed C) Cisticola exilis (H): Heard at Nizam Ghat, but we had other fish

to fry. Striated Prinia Prinia crinigera: Several were seen well in the Shillong area, including one doing a

bizarre jumping display at Nohkallikai Falls. Black-throated Prinia Prinia atrogularis: Excellent scope views of a singing male at Duwan Sing

Syiem View Point, near Shillong. This is now split from the next species. Black-throated Prinia Prinia superciliaris: Two by the mud springs at Bulbulia, Namdapha TR. A

primarily South-East Asian species, which only just gets into northeast India. Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsoni: A few were seen from Roing to Saikhowa Ghat, when we left

the Mishmi Hills. Graceful Prinia Prinia gracilis: Quite a few singing at Dibru Saikhowa this year; close to the eastern

limit of its range. Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris: Common in riverine grassland. Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis: One perched-up in the Central Range of Kaziranga, and a couple of others

heard. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata: Occasional. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus: Scattered, but only seen at Namdapha. Completely

unrelated to tailorbirds, and now called Phyllergates cucullatus. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: Frequently met with. Dark-necked Tailorbird (Black-n T) Orthotomus atrogularis: A pair at Namdapha TR.

21 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

SYLVIIDAE Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata: One eventually showed for all of us at Shillong

Ridge. Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivea: Quite common at Namdapha TR, with one seen by a few of us. Grey-bellied Tesia Tesia cyaniventer: One showed pretty well at Duwan Sing Syiem View Point,

near Shillong. Good to see all three mainland Asian species. Chestnut-crowned Bush-warbler Cettia major: The Cettia bush-warbler that we flushed a couple of

times at Nizam Ghat was almost certainly this species. Brownish-flanked Bush-warbler (Strong-footed W-w) Cettia fortipes: One was taped-in at Shillong

Ridge. Hume’s Bush-warbler Cettia brunnescenss: A couple showed really well at the higher levels of the

Mishmi Hills. Has a most remarkable high-pitched song. Brown Bush-warbler Bradypterus luteoventris: One came in amazingly well at Nohkallikai Falls, and

gave some terrific views. Russet Bush-warbler Bradypterus mandelli: A singing bird at Shillong Ridge responded briefly, but

slipped away, and others heard here and at Duwan Sing Syiem View Point. Rusty-rumped Warbler (Pallas’s Grasshopper W) Locustella certhiola: One was flushed at Nizam

Ghat, and seen very well in flight. Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola: Common at Dibru Saikhowa, with at least 10 seen. Blyth’s Reed-warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum: One was scoped at Kaziranga NP. Thick-billed Warbler Acrocephalus aedon: One was scoped at Dibru Saikhowa NP. Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus: Occasionally encountered, but mainly flicking away! Smoky Warbler (S Leaf-warbler) Phylloscopus fuligiventer: Some great views of a couple of these

sombre little warblers at Dibru Saikhowa. It’s hard to believe that it breeds in juniper scrub above the tree-line in the Himalayas.

Tickell’s Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus affinis: Small numbers were seen very nicely feeding in trees at Dibru Saikhowa and Kaziranga NP’s, about nine in all.

Orange-barred Leaf-warbler (Buff-b Warbler) Phylloscopus pulcher: Several were studied at close range in the Shillong area, and it was also seen briefly in the Mishmi Hills.

Ashy-throated Leaf-warbler (A-t Warbler, Grey-faced L-w) Phylloscopus maculipennis: One of the commonest birds at higher levels in the Mishmi Hills.

Sichuan Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus forresti: A couple at Namdapha, and one in the Mishmi Hills. This form was formerly lumped in Lemon-rumped Leaf-warbler (or L-r Warbler) P. chloronotus which, in turn, was formerly lumped in Pallas’s Leaf-warbler (or Pallas’s Warbler) P. proregulus.

Yellow-browed Leaf-warbler (Y-b Warbler, Inornate W) Phylloscopus inornatus: Small numbers throughout.

Hume’s Leaf-warbler (Hume’s Warbler) Phylloscopus humei: Good views of quite a few in the Shillong area.

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides: Two different birds at Kaziranga NP. Blyth’s Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides: The most widespread/commonest Phylloscopus

warbler; at Namdapha and in the Shillong area. Yellow-vented Warbler Phylloscopus cantator: Common at Namdapha, and to a lesser extent at

lower elevations in the Mishmi Hills. Grey-hooded Warbler Seicercus xanthoschistos: A couple at both Namdapha, and in the Shillong

area. Bianchi’s Warbler Seicercus valentini: Two at Namdapha NP. They gave an absolutely identical call

to my recording from northern Vietnam, and responded to it. Not recorded from the Indian subcontinent, until our 2009 tour. I believe that there is much evidence to suggest that Bianchi’s and “eastern” Whistler’s Warbler S. whistleri are actually the same species.

White-spectacled Warbler Seicercus affinis: Great studies of a couple of individuals at Namdapha TR. We were able to make clear comparisons with the next species.

Grey-cheeked Warbler Seicercus poliogenys: Recorded in all three montane areas visited.

22 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps: Frequently seen. Rufous-faced Warbler Abroscopus albogularis: This attractive little warbler was common at

Namdapha TR, and we had some nice close views. Just two at the lower parts of Mishmi. Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps: Busy flocks totalling 17 birds in the Mishmi Hills. A

great bird. Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris: This bamboo-lover was common at Namdapha TR,

and we had two at the lower elevations of the Mishmi Hills. Heard in the Shillong area. Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris: Common in the plains. AEGITHALIDAE Black-throated Tit (Red-headed T) Aegithalos concinnus: Encountered just a few times in the Mishmi

Hills, including a pair mating. Rufous-browed Tit Aegithalos iouschistos: One superb individual in the bird flock at the end of the

monal-trail, at Mishmi. Virtually unknown in Arunachal Pradesh and not recorded below c.2500m elevation in the subcontinent.

PARIDAE Rufous-vented Tit Parus rubidiventris: A single bird in another bird flock near the end of the monal-

trail, Mishmi Hills. East Himalayan beavani. Coal Tit Parus ater: A couple of these along the monal-trail. Crested Himalayan aemodius. Grey-crested Tit Parus dichrous: One was seen quite well, by most of us, in a bird-wave along the

monal-trail, Mishmi. A little-known species in Arunachal Pradesh. Grey Tit Parus cinereus: Occasionally seen in open forests and plantations of the Assam plains. A

long overdue split from Great Tit P. major. Subspecies nipalensis. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus: One in the Mishmi Hills and a couple more near Shillong. Yellow-cheeked Tit Parus spilonotus: Not uncommon in the Mishmi Hills and at Shillong Ridge. Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea: This hulking great ‘tit’ was common enough at Namdapha TR. Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus: Common at the higher levels of the Mishmi Hills, with

some extremely close views. Can sound just like a Goldcrest Regulus regulus. SITTIDAE Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta cinnamoventris: The nominate race was commonly seen at

Namdapha TR, lower down in the Mishmi Hills, and also at Shillong Ridge. The similar nuthatch south of the Himalayas is now considered to be a separate species, Indian Nuthatch S. castanea.

White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis: Small numbers at higher levels in the Mishmi Hills. Cracking.

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis: Just a few in the lower or plains forests. Beautiful Nuthatch Sitta formosa: Bill picked one out in a fairly distant bird-wave between Hornbill

Camp and Ranijheel, Namdapha TR. The views were not too bad for those that could get onto the bird!

CERTHIIDAE Rusty-flanked Treecreeper Certhia nipalensis: Two beauties in the excellent bird flock at the end of

the monal-trail, Mishmi Hills. Data-deficient in Arunachal Pradesh. DICAEIDAE Yellow-vented Flowerpecker Dicaeum chrysorrheum: One showed pretty well at Namdapha. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus: Frequently seen in upland forests. Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum: The common plains flowerpecker. NECTARINIIDAE Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Chalcoparia singalensis: At least three in woodland at Kaziranga NP.

23 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus: One or two outside Delhi Airport. Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis: Common in the Mishmi Hills (nipalensis) and at Shillong

Ridge (koelzi). Black-throated Sunbird (B-breasted S) Aethopyga saturata: The common sunbird at Namdapha and

at the lower to mid-levels of the Mishmi Hills. All assamensis. Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja: A small number in the plains forest and woodland, including

some stunning males. Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda (NL): One was seen near some flowering Rhododendrons at

the higher levels of the Mishmi Hills. Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna: Abundant at Namdapha TR this time. On the day that

we walked to Deban from Gibbon’s Land (10-mile Camp), 400 were counted moving roughly eastwards, presumably to a mass feeding area or group of suitable nectar-producing trees. It was also common at the lower levels of the Mishmi Hills.

ZOSTEROPIDAE Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus: Regular but scattered sightings. EMBERIZIDAE Chestnut-eared Bunting Emberiza fucata: Two, including one scoped, at Nohkallikai Falls,

Meghalaya. Little Bunting Emberiza pusilla: 17 or so in the Mishmi Hills, and one near Shillong. Black-faced Bunting Emberiza spodocephala: At least 16 in the Dibru Saikhowa to Saikhowa Ghat

area. FRINGILLIDAE Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus: Just a single female spotted by Bill during our lunch

break near Cherrapunjee. Dark-rumped Rosefinch Carpodacus edwardsii: Three females were seen well in the Mishmi Hills. ESTRILDIDAE White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata: Six at Namdapha and a couple lower down the hills at

Mishmi. The strikingly patterned nominate race. Chestnut Munia Lonchura atricapilla: Around 25 at Dibru Saikhowa. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Frequent in small numbers along the roadsides in built-up areas. Russet Sparrow Passer rutilans: At least nine around Shillong. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: Rather more common than House. PLOCEIDAE Black-breasted Weaver Ploceus benghalensis: A tight flock of about 40 birds in the Central Range of

Kaziranga NP. Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus: 18 or so at Kaziranga NP STURNIDAE Grey-headed Starling (Chestnut-tailed S) Sturnia malabarica: Frequently seen. Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra: Common and widespread. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Common and widespread, particularly around habitation. Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus: Very common during the tour, mainly at flowering trees. White-vented Myna Acridotheres grandis: Small numbers were regularly seen in the lowlands,

usually in company with Jungle Mynas. Common Hill-myna (Hill Myna) Gracula religiosa: A few sightings of this popular cage-bird at

Namdapha.

24 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

ORIOLIDAE Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus: This vivid yellow oriole was regularly seen in more low-

lying woodland. Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii: Small numbers in the broadleaved evergreen forests. DICRURIDAE Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Common in the more open lowlands. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Frequently seen at the forested locations. Resident hopwoodi. Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus: This shiny, spangled gem was commonly seen at lowland forest

locations. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer: Not uncommon. Typically a hill bird. Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus: Scattered in the lower-lying forest and woodlands;

usually seeking-out flowering trees. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus: A good scattering; at lower levels than Lesser. ARTAMIDAE Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus: Eight at Miao, and small numbers during the latter part of the

tour, particularly around the entrances to Kaziranga NP. CORVIDAE Yellow-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa flavirostris: Common in the Mishmi Hills this year. Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis: We actually managed to see one at Namdapha TR. Several

others heard but elusive. Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda: Quite common in the open lowlands. Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae: Small numbers during the first half of the trip. Collared Treepie Dendrocitta frontalis: The best tour yet for this attractive, rare treepie, with superb

prolonged views of one on the way to Deban, Namdapha TR. Others were heard and seen fleetingly.

House Crow Corvus splendens: Common to abundant around built-up areas. Eastern Jungle Crow Corvus levaillantii: Common, and more widespread than House Crow. Formerly

lumped with other South and South-East Asian forms in what used to be called Large-billed Crow C. macrorhynchos.

MAMMALS Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus: A small number were seen during journeys in the Assam

plains. Assamese Macaque (Assam M) Macaca assamensis: At least 13 were seen at Namdapha TR. The

identification criteria include the generally greyer colouration of this species compared to the next.

Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta: A small number of red-bums were seen during journeys, and in the Kaziranga area.

Hoolock Gibbon Hylobates hoolock: Common at Namdapha TR and also found in the Mishmi Hills (at the right elevations). Seen well at the former location.

Yellow-bellied Weasel Mustela kathiah: One in the stream gulley at Shillong Ridge was totally unexpected, and showed well for some of us. This is still a rather little-known species.

Smooth-coated Otter Lutra perspicillata: Kaziranga NP must be the best place to see this species, and we saw groups totalling 24 animals this year.

Ganges-Indus Dolphin (Ganges D, Gangetic D) Platanista gangetica: Two in the Dibru River at Dibru Saikhowa NP. Showed pretty well, a number of times.

Asian Elephant (Indian E) Elephas maximus: Widespread at Kaziranga NP, with about 50-60 seen. A couple were also heard at Dibru Saikhowa NP.

25 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Asian One-horned Rhinoceros (Indian R, Great Indian O-h R) Rhinoceros unicornis: You can’t go anywhere in Kaziranga without seeing this. We counted at least 75 in all.

Wild Boar (Indian W B) Sus scrofa: Reasonable numbers at Kaziranga NP. Swamp Deer Cervus duvaucelii: At least 300 of these rare deer at Kaziranga NP. Hog-Deer Axis porcinus: This most distinctive, tail-flicking little deer was very common at Kaziranga,

with at least 100 counted. Indian Muntjac (Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak: A couple were seen at Namdapha TR, and

several others heard. Water Buffalo (Wild B) Bubalus arnee: At least 130 at Kaziranga NP; one of the World’s last refuges

for this impressive beast. We also saw a few at Dibru Saikhowa, which prevented us from looking for some of our target species.

Black Giant Squirrel Ratufa bicolor: Occasional sightings at Namdapha. Pallas’s Squirrel Callosciurus erythraeus: The common, medium-sized arboreal squirrel. Irrawaddy Squirrel (Hoary-bellied Himalayan S) Callosciurus pygerythrus: Common at Kaziranga NP. Himalayan Striped Squirrel Tamiops mcclellandii: All of the small striped squirrels that we saw at

Namdapha TR and in the Mishmi Hills were this species Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Dremomys lokriah: A couple of these ground squirrels in the

Mishmi Hills. Red Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista petaurista: Five or six at Namdapha were seen really well,

particularly around the camp at Hornbill. REPTILES Common Indian Monitor Varanus bengalensis: One or two at Kaziranga. Assam Roofed Terrapin Kachuga sylhetensis: At least 30 in the Central Range of Kaziranga NP. BUTTERFLIES Great Mormon Papilio memnon. Common Bluebottle Graphium sarpedon. Common Jay Graphium doson: One on the flasks at Hornbill Camp. White Dragontail Leptocircus curius: Namdapha. Large Cabbage White Pieris brassicae: Widespread. Psyche Leptosia nina: One at Kaziranga NP. Related to the European wood whites. Lesser Gull Cepora nadina: Common at Namdapha and Mishmi. Yellow Orange Tip Irene pyrene. Great Orange Tip Hebomoia glaucippe. Striped Tiger Danaus genutia. Chocolate Tiger Parantica melaneus: One at Namdapha. Magpie Crow Euploea radmanthus. Common Evening Brown Melanitis leda: Frequent at Namdapha NP. Red Lacewing Cethosia biblis: One along the trail at Shillong Ridge; a real stunner. Large Yeomen Cirrochroa aoris: On a stream at Nizam Ghat. Grey Pansy Junonia atlities: Scattered sightings. Peacock Pansy Junonia almana: Widespread. Orange Oakleaf Kallima inachus: One of these amazing stunners at Namdapha. Clear Sailer Neptis clinia: Namdapha. Small Staff Sergeant Pantaporia zeroca: One or two at Namdapha. Black Prince Apatura parisatis: A few at Namdapha NP. Red Caliph Enispe intermedia: One at Namdapha. Punchinello Zemeros flegyas: Namdapha TR and Shillong Ridge. Dark Judy Abisara fylla: Widespread. Tailed Judy Abisara neophron: One at Namdapha.

26 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Malayan Megisba malaya: One at Namdapha. Purple Sapphire Heliophorus epicles: Frequent at Namdapha. Dark Palm Dart Telicota ancilla: One at Namdapha.

27 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Left then right columns, top to bottom: Crossing the river at Miao Small Pratincole Deban Resthouse Hoolock Gibbon Hornbill Camp Collared Owlet

28 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Left then right columns, top to bottom: Grey Peacock-pheasant Blyth’s Kingfisher Roing to Mishmi road Nizam Ghat, with Mishmi Hills behind Dusk after rain at Mishmi The monal-trail

29 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Left then right columns, top to bottom: Bar-throated Minla Amazing camp cake Striated bulbul Rhododendron cf dalhousiae Dark-rumped Rosefinch

30 Birdquest: Assam & The Northeast Frontier 2012

Left then right columns, top to bottom: Chestnut-backed Laughingthrush Rhino & elephants Orchid at Mawsmai Cave Greater Adjutants