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A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s

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Ageraline®

Phyto-soothing activeNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient obtained byhydroglycolic extraction from the leaves of ageratum.

Mode of action: Symbol of confidence in the language of plants,ageratum is traditionally used in French Polynesia and Madagascarfor its soothing and analgesic properties. Because of its compositionincluding polyphenols (chlorogenic acid) and flavonoids(kaempferol), Ageraline is particularly suitable for treating damagedor fragile skin, through an effect which modulates the release ofinflammation mediators.

1% Ageraline inhibits by 39% the liberationof prostaglandins PGE2 by keratinocytes aggressed with PMA.

Elisa method

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Ageratum conyzoïdes extract

Aludone®

Physio-astringent Special sensitive skinNature and composition: Aluminium salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acidor L-PCA, physiological component of the epidermis, obtained bycyclisation of glutamic acid.

Mode of action: Long recognised for their antiperspirant properties,aluminium salts owe their efficacy to their astringent and antisepticpowers. However, in the form of hydrochlorates, they are sometimesirritant. Aludone, a combination of aluminium and L-PCA, combinesefficacy, safety and balance. Because of its high tolerance, Aludone isparticularly recommended for sensitive skins.

CTFA: Aluminium PCA

Argidone® 50Physio-regenerantNature and composition:L-arginine salt ofL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid, or L-PCA, physiological component ofthe epidermis, obtained by cyclisation of glutamic acid.

Mode of action: Arginine is an amino acid found in most body tissues:it is involved in the synthesis of urea (a moisturiser composingNatural Moisturising Factor), the conformation of skin proteins, thecell energisation and the inhibition of NO release. Argidone 50 is anoptimal combination of arginine and L-PCA, a skin moisturisercomposing nearly 12% of NMF. Argidone 50 is an excellent cellregenerant, working by activating the body's metabolic reactions.

CTFA: Water (and) Arginine PCA

Asparlyne®

Skin energiser Special anti-fatigueNature and composition: 50% aqueous solution of L-lysine aspartate.

Mode of action: Essential to growth and cell energisation (a deficiencyleads to extreme tiredness), L-lysine, combined in the form ofaspartic acid salt, gives Asparlyne its properties in stimulating theskin's microcirculation and the synthesis of ATP, cellular fuel.Perfectly appropriate for tired and stressed skins, Asparlyne restoresradiance and tonus to the skin.

A 4% Asparlyne cream increases by 18%the cutaneous microcirculation.

CTFA: Lysine aspartate

Avelanine®

Phyto-protector Special heavy legsNature and composition: Phyto-activeingredient titrated in flavonoids,composed in particular by rutin,kaempferol and myricitroside(flavonic derivative), obtained byhydroglycolic extraction fromhazelnut tree leaves.

Mode of action: Given its high concentration of polyphenols and PCO(catechin derivatives), Avelanine has veinotonic, anti-radical andprotective properties against the action of serumal elastases, toeffectively combat the fragilisation of peripheral capillaries and theresulting sensation of discomfort, heavy legs.

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Corylus avellana (hazel)leaf extract

BioEcolia®

α-oligoglucan, protector of the skin ecosystemNature and composition: Gluco-oligosaccharides (glucose units linked byspecific bonds (α 1-2) and (α 1-6)) obtained by enzymatic synthesis(transfer reaction).

Mode of action: Thanksto the specificity of itsinter-sucral bonds,BioEcolia is aprivileged substratefor the developmentof the skin'ssaprophytic flora tothe detriment of undesirable opportunist flora, pathogenic or not,ready to invade the skin at the least sign of imbalance. BioEcolia re-balances, maintains and even stimulates the skin's Ecofloraconsidered to be the body's first line of defence against externalattack.

CTFA: Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide

Aquaregul-K®

Osmoregulating moisturizerNature and composition: Physio-vegetal complex made ofpotassium salt of the L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (L-PCA) and the aqueous extractof Mexican cactus stems.

Mode of action: Short and longterm moisturizer, Aquaregul-Kenhances intra and intracellularhydrous flow, according to 3complementary action modes:stimulation of water penetrationinto cells (osmotic effect); stimulation of aquaporins (AQP3)synthesis; reinforcement of epidermis barrier function.

5% Aquaregul-K in a cream increases by 23% hydration / non treatedzone after 4 days treatment.

CTFA: Water (and) Potassium PCA (and) Opuntia ficus indica stem extract

Aquaregul-K® effect on AQP3 synthesis stimulation

Control

with Aquaregul-K® 0.16%

Les Actifs-Engl 20/06/07 16:01 Page 4

CA c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s

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Calcidone®

Physio-restructurant Special damaged skinNature and composition: Calcium salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid orL-PCA, physiological component of the epidermis, obtained bycyclisation of glutamic acid.

Mode of action: Considered to be a second messenger, involved in allof the body's biochemical reactions, calcium is the trace elementwhich triggers the differentiation phases in epidermal cells.Calcidone, a combination of calcium and L-PCA, helps the skin tocarry out or regain its role as a barrier by stimulating the celldifferentiation process and activating the synthesis of totalepidermal lipids, notably ceramides. Calcidone also has strong anti-MMP1 activity and consequently preserves the skin's integrity.

Action of 0.25% Calcidone on the synthesis of epidermal lipids:

• cerebrosides: + 268%• ceramides 1: + 199%• ceramides 2: + 212%

On skin human sections, versus placebo

CTFA: Calcium PCA

Well-being, a sensorial approach and perceptions:“Awakening the senses”

Promoting the perception of well-being, relaxation, recharging one’sbatteries and adopting an openapproach towards others ishenceforth part and parcel ofrecent trends. The search for well-being at any cost gets strongerand stronger over time and is notready to stop yet. Faced day in,day out, with the troubles andtribulations of modern life andbowled over by ever-increasingstress that pervades all aspects oflife, men and women of today seekto relax, purify and refresh bodyand soul through cosmeticproducts and to discover a meansof escape in the gentlest possibleway.

The cocooning attitude hasdefinitely left room for a “hiving-attitude”, i.e. to share emotions ina friendly, intimate manner.Withdrawal into oneself andintrospection must henceforth

incorporate other people and all of the social, cultural and religiousdimensions that this entails… andthe skin has become an excellentcarrier in this sense.

A sensorial organ par excellence,the skin is actually mid-waybetween well-being and lookinggood.

A new generation of cosmeticproducts is in the pipeline. Theseemphasise the biological effects of“being better” as well as “feelingbetter”: the Neurocosmetics.Progress is much faster in this fieldand certain parallels canincreasingly be drawn between theskin and the entire body thanks tothe “neuro-active substances” thatwill act either on the release ofcertain neuromediators or on theneuronal connection per se.

By Solabia, your Trends Partner

Camaderm® BG SPCutaneous firming agent, extracellular matrix and elastic fibres protectorNature and composition: Vegetal juice stabilized in butylene glycolprepared starting from fresh berries of black crowberry,obtained by cold compression.

Mode of action: Protection of skin and vascular elasticity by inhibitingthe release of MMP1 by activated keratinocytes and by inhibitingleukocytic elastase activity.

CTFA: Empetrum nigrum fruit juice (and) Butylene glycol

Caophenol®

Phyto-protector Special urbanstressNature and composition: Phyto-activeingredient titrated in polyphenols andPCO (Proanthocyanidic Oligomers),obtained by hydroglycolic extractionfrom cocoa.

Mode of action: Because of its richness in PCO and polyphenols,Caophenol is an appropriate response to urban stress by acting onvarious aggression factors (nickel, free radicals) while minimisingthe propagation of the resulting inflammatory reaction (redness,stinging...).

0.5% Caophenol increases by 27% the cytoprotectionof human keratinocytes exposed to nickel.

XTT test / Spectrophotometric assay at 450 nm of formazan

CTFA: Propylene glycol (and) Water (and) Theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract

Exist in BG version (Butylene glycol)

Epicatechin

Caorange®

Phyto-regenerant Special anti-fatigueNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated incitroflavonoids (naringine) andmagnesium, rich in caffeine,obtained by hydroglycolicextraction from cocoa powder,sweet orange peel and enrichedin vectorised trace elements(magnesium).

Mode of action: An optimal complex of polyphenols, magnesium andcaffeine, Caorange is specially adapted to slow down the ageingprocess.

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Theobroma cacao (cocoa)extract (and) Citrus aurantium dulcis extract (and) Magnesium PCA

Caomint®

Phyto-toning Special well-beingNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated in sugars andrich in essential oils, obtained by hydroglycolic extraction fromcocoa and peppermint leaves.

Mode of action: A delicious combination of cocoa and peppermint,Caomint has the moisturising and softening characteristics of cocoaand peppermint sugars, combined with the energising virtues ofmint essential oil. This makes it a choice active ingredient to givethe skin a sensation of complete well-being.

CTFA: Propylene glycol (and) Water (and) Mentha piperita(peppermint) leaf extract (and) Theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract

Caobromine®

Phyto-slimming agent Special well-beingNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated in caffeineand theobromine, obtained by hydroglycolic extraction from cocoabean shells.

Mode of action: Well known for its stress-relieving properties, cocoacontains molecules which can stimulate the release of ß-endorphins(“pleasure molecules”) from human keratinocytes. Rich in xanthicbases (caffeine, theobromine), flavonoids and active magnesium,Caobromine limits fat-storage by stimulating lipolysis.

1% Caobromine stimulates by 370%the production of β-endorphins.

Spectrophotometric assay at 450 nm

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Theobroma cocoa shell extract


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Skin Integrity“The skin beauty insurance contract”

We often hear about LifeExpectancy but seldom aboutBeauty Expectancy!

Beauty Expectancy is a conceptthat inevitably involves awarenessof the fragile nature of the skinand the importance attached topreserving its integrity.

Literally, integrity is generallydefined by the condition ofsomething that has remainedintact or that we wish to keepintact. Integrity precludes any riskof alteration.

This is a virtually impossible wagerfor beauty since we all know thatit is difficult to halt the passage oftime. It is, however, alwaysfeasible to erase it and tominimise the signs by taking out aBeauty Insurance policy,

a contract that safeguards theintegrity of the skin.

Acting as the body’s first shield,the skin protects a person thanksto its barrier function, whichaffords protection against any ofthe numerous aggressive factors towhich we are exposed on a dailybasis.

The epidermal barrier is formed bylayers of cells that are tightlypacked together with structuredlipid cement. The entire system islinked via a powerfulcommunication network.

Preservation of the integrity of theskin is one of the skin’s very firsthealth/beauty routines helping it tostay young or at least to lookyoung for as long as possible.


Caospice®

Spicy phyto-complex Special menNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated in sugars andpolyphenols, obtained by hydroglycolic extraction from cocoa beanshells, ginger roots, cardamom seeds and white pepper seeds.

Mode of action: Going back to the original use of cocoa by the Aztecs,Caospice is a complex of spices with both energising and softeningproperties, to make this traditional vegetal combination a comapletemen treatment, to be applied as after-shave balm, hydra-tonic facecream or body sports gel.CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Theobroma cacao (cocoa)shell extract (and) Zingiber officinale (ginger) root extract (and)Elettaria cardamomum seed extract (and) Piper nigrum (whitepepper) seed extract

Citrifoline®

Skin phyto-revitaliserNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated in citric acid,obtained by hydroglycolic extraction from nono leaves, a shrubnative to Marquesas Islands, Polynesia.Mode of action: Traditionally used for soothing insect bites and burns,the nono, particularly rich in citric acid (a major constituent of theKrebs cycle) has regenerating and tonic properties. It is also knownfor its antibacterial action due to its richness in anthraquinones.

1% Citrifoline increases the fibroblasts cellular metabolism andmitochondrial activity under tired and stressed culture conditions.

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Morinda citrifolia leaf extract

Ceramidone®

Lipidic restructurantPhysio-esterNature and composition:Branched octyl-dodecylic ester of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid or L-PCA,a physiological component of the epidermis, obtained by amicrowave synthesis process, with no catalyst or residual solvent.

Mode of action: The bi-lipidic structure of Ceramidone, similar to that ofskin ceramides (with a polar head and two lipophilic carbonatedchains), allows it, via biomimetism, to help restructure the skinbarrier. Ceramidone stimulates the synthesis of epidermal lipids,especially cerebrosides and ceramides 1 and 2. Perfectly adapted tomake-up products, Ceramidone can be used in all kinds of treatmentto reinforce the skin's integrity.

Action of 1% Ceramidone on the synthesis of epidermal lipids:

• cerebrosides: + 61%• ceramides 1: + 90%• ceramides 2: + 65%

On skin human sections, versus placebo

CTFA: Octyldodecyl PCA

ClariTea®

Phyto-active for even complexionNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated in polyphenolsand PCO obtained by hydroglycolic extraction from white tea leaves,Paï Mu Tan variety.

Mode of action: A radiance revealer, ClariTea reduces skinimperfections (pigmentation spots, widespread redness andmicrovascularisation), which occur notably through environmentalattacks, by acting on the inhibition of angiogenesis, on the anti-radical protection and on the limitation of inflammatory reactions.

0.05% ClariTea inhibits by 38% the release of IL8by human keratinocytes stimulated by IL-1β.

ELISA method

CTFA: Propylene glycol (and) Water (and) Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Exists in BG version (Butylene glycol)

Cryogenyl®

Refreshing and restructuring physio-active substanceNature and composition: Complex made of menthyl PCA andoctyldodecyl PCA soluble in butylene glycol.

Mode of action: Refreshing from 0,5% and cutaneous barrierrestructuring at the same time, Cryogenyl confers a fresh sensationto the skin, generating a soothing or alleviating effect, depending onthe circumstances and helps to strengthen the barrier function of theskin by promoting epidermal lipid synthesis, and thus improving cellcohesion.

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Octyldodecyl PCA (and) Menthyl PCA

Menthyl PCA Octyldodecyl PCA


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Cuivridone®

Physio-seboregulatorNature and composition: Copper salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid orL-PCA, a physiological component of the epidermis, obtained bycyclisation of glutamic acid.

Mode of action: Combined with zinc in dermocosmetics for itsastringent and antimicrobial properties, copper is one of the body'sessential trace elements. Cuivridone, a combination of copper and L-PCA, is used to regulate sebaceous gland activity by reducing thelevel of skin sebum. It is the choice active ingredient for oily skinlotions to which it also confers its characteristic blue-lagoon colour.

CTFA: Copper PCA

Fucogel® 1000PP Multi-sensory moisturiserNature and composition: Anionicpolysaccharide (meanmolecular weight 1.106 D)with controlled viscosity (onaverage 1000 cP), obtainedby fermentation. It is a linearsaccharide structure whichsequence comprises fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid.

Mode of action: Because of its ability, on the one hand, to form a filmon the skin surface but also on hair and, on the other hand tocapture water molecules, Fucogel has immediate and remanentmoisturising and restructuring properties combined to a remarkablesensory power, providing comfort and softness to cosmetic formulaeduring and after application.

The sensorial study carried out on 12 experts demonstratedthat Fucogel 1000 from 5% significatively improvesthe feel and the texture of emulsions.

CTFA: Biosaccharide gum-1Exists without paraben: Fucogel® 1.5P

Glycofilm®

Interactive matrix-protectoranti-aggressionNature and composition:Anionic polysaccharide (meanmolecular weight 2.106 D)obtained by fermentation. It is abranched desacetylated structurewhich saccharide sequencecomprises galacturonic acid, L-fucose and glucose.

Mode of action: Because of its ability to form an ultra-strong matrix onthe skin surface, Glycofilm provides the epidermis with a secondskin, like a coat of mail, to protect it from physical and chemicalattacks. Its matrix organisation also gives Glycofilm interactive andtextural properties adjustable according to the concentration ofother products of formula (salts, ethanol, propylene glycol, butyleneglycol, PEG-8).

5% Glycofilm increases by 75% the cytoprotectionof epidermal cells exposed to cadmium

MTT test / Photometric assay of formazan at 540 nm.

CTFA: Biosaccharide gum-4

Glycopatch®

3D active & interactive matrixNature and composition: Anionic matrix polysaccharide (mean molecularweight 2.106D), prepared through biotechnological origin. It is abranched tetrasaccharide sequence comprisingglucuronic acid, L-fucose and D-glucose.

Mode of action: Glycopatch is the concentratedversion of Glycofilm, especially formulated foruse in patches or in “patch-effect“ products.Real second skin or anti-aggression shield,Glycopatch provides various and originalinteractive textures and minimises effects of UVrays and pollution on the skin.

CTFA: Biosaccharide-gum 4

Guaraslim®

Tonifying slimming agentNature and composition: Phyto-complex titrated in caffeine andpolyphenols, obtained by hydroglycolic extraction of guarana seeds(Paullinia cupana) and Muirapuama bark (Ptychopetalum olacoides),from Brazilian origin.

Mode of action: Inhibition by 15% of fat cells differentiation.

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Caffeine (and) Paulliniacupana seed extract (and) Ptychopetalum olacoides bark extract

Interactive textures“The art of the ready to touch”

The hedonic dimension of anycosmetic preparation indubitablyinvolves the creation of newtextures and galenic forms as wellas new sensations. To draw on thephysicochemical and sensoryproperties of active ingredients orexcipients, is a good way ofinnovating to propose newcosmetic products which areoriginal in their method ofapplication or their rheologicalbehaviour on contact with the skinor hair, in their sensory effects…

It is now possible to producetextures which melt at skintemperature, create creams with apowdery feel, optimise the feelingof freshness in a cream, designcocooning textures, make extra-soft gels which are totallytransparent. It's also easy toimagine products which changestatus in contact with the skin byusing so-called intelligentmolecules which, like polymers orcertain esters, can change theirproperties according to theconditions in which they are used.


HHyaluronic Acid BT Immediate moisturizerNature and composition: Anionic polysaccharide (mean molecular weight1.8.106 D) obtained by fermentation, with a linear saccharidestructure with a D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl glucosamine.

Mode of action: Given its high molecular weight, Hyaluronic Acid BTmaintains an optimum level of hydration.

CTFA: Sodium hyaluronate

Guaraslim® effect on differentiation inhibition

Fat cells + Guaraslim 0,08%differentiated fat cells


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Kerastim® SNail and hair growth stimulatorNature and composition: Tetra sodium di-succinyl L-cystine easily solublein water, odourless, obtained by enzymatic synthesis.

Mode of action: The enzymatic grafting of succinic acid onto cystine, akeratin essential amino acid in the nails and hair, helps increasecellular bioavailability of cystine while stimulating keratinocytemetabolism. Kerastim increases ATP synthesis, prevents hair fromfalling out and promotes nail growth.

0.25% kerastim increases by 35% keratinocyte intracellular ATP.

CTFA: Tetrasodium cystinyl disuccinate

Magnolidone®

Physio-energiser Special anti-fatigueNature and composition: Magnesium salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acidor L-PCA, a physiological component of the epidermis, obtained bycyclisation of glutamic acid.

Mode of action: A major anti-stress and anti-fatigue agent in the body,magnesium is a trace element which is essential for cell metabolism.Magnolidone, a combination of magnesium and L-PCA, helps skincells to regain their optimal energy level, notably after the heavydaily attacks which lead to imbalance and slow their metabolism.

CTFA: Magnesium PCA

Mangalidone®

Mitochondrial physio-protectorNature and composition: Manganese salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acidor L-PCA, a physiological component of the epidermis, obtained bycyclisation of glutamic acid.

Mode of action: A trace element acting at cell level at a very lowconcentration, manganese is essential for the production of melaninand fatty acids as well as SOD activity, an enzyme protecting the skinagainst free radicals, located into mitochondrions. Mangalidone, acombination of manganese and L-PCA, provides skin cells with achoice active ingredient stimulating the synthesis of RNAm specificof Mn-SOD (preventive and curative effect) but also to fight againstoxidative stress (anti-radical effect).

Action of 0.0016% Mangalidone on the stimulationof messenger ARN of Mn-SOD:

• preventive effect (without UV): + 74%• curative effect (with UV): + 169%

On dermal fibroblasts

CTFA: Manganese PCA

Lantanine®

Phyto-modulator of bacterial proliferationNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated inhydroxycinnamic derivatives (chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid…) andnaturally rich in essential oils and phenolic derivatives, Lantanine isobtained by hydroglycolic extraction from Golden Alyssum leavesand is preservative-free.

Mode of action: Traditionally used in Madagascar for its antisepticvirtues, Golden Alyssum has a composition which is extremely variedin antibacterial molecules (saponosides, flavonoids, caffeic acid,chlorogenic acid and essential oils…). Lantanine is a choice activeingredient to help the skin combat the development and installationof undesirable flora which promotes imbalance harmful to the skinaestheticism (oily, shiny skin, dandruff, …) and many sources ofdiscomfort (bad smells, irritations, …).

0.063% Lantanine inhibits by 50%the lipase enzymatic activity.

Enzymatic kit

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Lantana camara leaf extract

Laurydone®

2 in 1 moisturising physio-esterNature and composition: Lauric ester of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid orL-PCA, a physiological component of the epidermis, obtained by amicrowave synthesis process, with no catalyst or residual solvent.

Mode of action: Given its amphiphilic structure and the presence of afat chain with 12carbon atoms,Laurydone is adual-actionmoisturiser. On the one hand, it immediately moisturises the skinthanks to the hydrolipidic film that it forms on its surface and, on theother hand, it helps preserve an optimal moisturising level through L-PCA released over time. Laurydone is therefore particularly suitablefor formulae in a lipophilic medium such as lipsticks and other make-up products, notably preventing any pigment-induced drying effect.

CTFA: Lauryl PCA

Liposoy®

Hair sheathing restructurantNature and composition: Lipidic fractions rich in phospholipids (45%),triglycerides (25%) and sterols (25%) extracted from soya (no GMO).

Mode of action: Liposoy is the plant equivalent of bone marrow.With a lipidic composition very close to the latter, Liposoy has aconditioning effect on hair fibre, restoring gloss and softness to the hair.

CTFA: Soybean lipid

Maturine®

Phyto-compensating active Specialmature skinNature and composition: Phyto-activeingredient titrated in pentacyclictriterpenes (asiatic acid andmadecassic acid), obtained byco-extraction from Madagascanplants: banana tree flowers andhydrocotyl leaves, on a butylene glycol/water/ethoxydiglycol mixture.

Mode of action: Because of its composition of triterpenes andphytosterols, Maturine is a choice active ingredient to provide aneffective response to the amplification of skin ageing during themenopause or premenopause. Stimulating collagen synthesis,Maturine helps reduce the depth of wrinkles and rebuilds the skin'smicrorelief network.

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Ethoxydiglycol (and) Musasapientum (banana) flower extract (and) Centella asiatica extract

Effect of Maturine® (5% cream) on the skin microrelief network Optical microscopy

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Mg-Relax®

Cutaneous relaxing andregenerating active Nature and composition: Physio-vegetalcomplex made of magnesium salt ofL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid or Mg-PCA, and aqueous extracts of bluelotus and white lotus, originating fromSouth-East Asia (Laos, India and Sumatra...).

Mode of action: Thanks to the double relaxing (Yin) and energizing(Yang) effect of its constituents, Mg-Relax is a rebalancing active tominimize stress effects on the skin. Mg-Relax acts particularly oninflammation reduction, on cellular metabolism stimulation and onface muscles tensing decrease.

CTFA: Magnesium PCA (and) Nelumbo nucifera flower water (and)Nymphaea coerulea flower water

Myristidone®

Purifying physio-ester Special oily skin

Nature and composition: Myristic ester of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid orL-PCA, a physiological component of the epidermis, obtained by amicrowave synthesis process, with no catalyst or residual solvent.

Mode of action: Among the fatty alcohols from C10 to C22, myristicalcohol (C14 tetradecylic) possesses specific texturising properties.properties. In addition to this intact quality, Myristidone, produced byesterification of myristic alcohol with L-PCA, displays strong anti-microbial activity and, more particularly, limits the proliferation ofPropionibacterium acnes, a bacterium specific to oily skin andresponsible, amongst other things, for the skin irritation.

CTFA: Myristyl PCA

Effect of Myristidone on Propionibacterium acnes proliferationIncubation at 37°C for 72 hours

0.1% MyristidoneControl

Mulberry Concentrate®

Anti-ageing phyto-activeNature and composition: Phyto-active titrated in flavonoïds, obtained byhydroglycolic extraction from the fresh leaves of the white Mulberry,Japanese or kokuso 21 variety.

Mode of action: Thanks to its high flavonoïds content, MulberryConcentrate presents veinotonic and anti-radical properties.

CTFA: Propylene glycol (and) Water (and) Morus alba leaf extract


PCA, “A biological function to be rediscovered”

Long since considered only as aphysiological, moisturising moleculeof the epidermis given its presencewithin the N.M.F (naturalmoisturizing factor), L-PCA(pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) isactually effective in regulating theprocess of differentiation in theepidermis, a biological mechanismresponsible for skin integrity andoptimal skin hydration.

The Solabia Group has demonstratedand patented that L-PCA acts as abiological signal, stimulating thesynthesis of epidermal lipids andfilaggrin – a protein that guaranteesthe aggregation of keratin fibres andfrom which it is derived (at the endof the differentiation phase, filaggrinis degraded and releases essentiallyL-PCA).

By Solabia, specialising in L-PCA and its derivatives

Nalidone®

Physio-moisturiserNature et composition : Sodium salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acidor L-PCA, a physiological component of the epidermis, obtainedby cyclisation of glutamic acid.

Mode of action: A natural ingredient, representing nearly 12% of NMF(Natural Moisturising Factor), Nalidone is a physiologicalmoisturiser used to ensure or restore an optimal level ofmoisturisation in the stratum corneum.

CTFA: Sodium PCA

Nogaline®

Phyto-purifier Special oily hairNature and composition: Phyto-activeingredient titrated in polyphenols andhyperoside, obtained by hydroglycolicextraction from walnut tree leaves.

Mode of action: Thanks to its richness in gallic and catechic tanninsand its specific content in hyperoside, a hair energising flavonoidwith antibacterial properties, Nogaline displays ideal treatment foroily hair and is also particularly suitable for dark hair, to which itrestores softness and radiance.

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Juglans regia (walnut)leaf extract

Nuteline® CSkin firming restructurantNature and composition: Low molecular weight hazelnut oligopeptides,rich in arginine, proline, glutamic acid and aspartic acid, obtained bycontrolled enzymatic hydrolysis.

Mode of action: A veritable vegetal growth factor, Nuteline increasescollagen neosynthesis and stimulates the communication betweenfibroblasts and collagen, demonstrating an effect on skin firmness.In skin reconstruction, Nuteline stimulates the synthesis of totalepidermal lipids, particularly the cerebrosides, cholesterol sulphateand ceramides 1 and 2.

0.1% Nuteline increases by:

• 167% the growth of human keratinocytes• 157% the growth of human fibroblasts

CTFA: Hydrolyzed hazelnut protein

Nutrimel® SkinMoisturizing and energizing vegetal honeyNature and composition: Juice 100% pure plant titrated in polyphenolsand oligofructoses, obtained by cold pressing from jicama or yacontubers.

Mode of action: Rich in complex sugars and minerals with humectantsand moisturizing properties, Nutrimel Skin is a short and long termmoisturizer, stimulating cells metabolism confronted to a stress andmaking their recovery easier.

0.22% Nutrimel Skin tested on normal humanstimulates by 115% cellular metabolism.

CTFA: Polymnia sonchifolia root juice

Nutrimel® HairHair brilliance smoothing & sublimatorNature and composition: “Vegetel milk“ obtained by controlled andmoderate hydrolysis from fresh jicama or yacon tubers, with citricacid and stabilized by adding xanthan gum.

Mode of action: Rich in essential minerals, Nutrimel Hair promotes thehealth and beauty of the hair by improving not only its cuticlecondition (very often damaged), but also its sheen.

CTFA: Water (and) Polymnia sonchifolia root extract (and) Xanthangum (and) citric acid


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Nympheline®

Phyto-purifier Special anti-stressNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated in sugars(mucilages) and polyphenols, naturally rich in parahydroxybenzoicacid, obtained by hydroglycolic extraction from white waterlily flowers.

Mode of action: Serene force of pools and "water divinity", the whitewater lily is a symbol of purity and serenity. Nympheline contributeseffectively to skin purification by attenuating oxidation effects andtrapping the free radicals generated by stress. Its anti-lipase actioncombined with the antiseptic and astringent properties of its tanninsand phenol compounds, make Nympheline a choice active ingredientto combat all the discomfort of oily skin due to endogenic stress.

0.03% Nympheline inhibits by 50% the lipase enzymatic activity.

Enzymatic kit

CTFA: Propylene glycol (and) Water (and) Nymphaea alba flower extract

Ω6 Ceramide®

Cutaneous barrier restructuringNature and composition: Biomimetic linoleic acid (Ω6) stabilized under aceramide-like structure obtained by a patented enzymatic solvent-free process, from a plant oil of virgin carthame or cotton (Ω6

Ceramide Cotton) or wheat germ (Ω6 Ceramide Wheat Germ).

Mode of action:In bringing stablelinoleic acid to the heart of the bilipidic layers of the epidermis,Ω6 Ceramide is even impacting upon the quality of theintercorneocytic cement. Ω6 Ceramide displays double restructuring(corneocytes cohesionincrease) and anti-inflammatory activitiesrequired in order topreserve skin integrity.

CTFA: Palmitoyl PG-Linoleamide

Ω3 Ceramide®

Cutaneous anti-stress rebalancing agent “youth control“Nature and composition: Biomimetic linolenic acid (Ω3) stabilized under aceramide-like structure obtained by a patented enzymatic solventfree process, from a flax oil.

Mode of action: Ω3

Ceramide has theunique feature oftransposing thewell-knownnutraceutics properties of the Omega 3 to the skin. To complementits restructuring properties associated with its biomimetic ceramidestructure, Ω3 Ceramide makes the skin less sensitive to stress whilstre-establishing cell communication in the neurones. As a directconsequence of its anti-stress properties, Ω3 Ceramide helps toregulate skin hyperseborrhoea (anti 5-α reductase activity) and slowdown ageing.

CTFA: Palmitoyl PG Linolenamide

Oxycell®

Metabolic regulatorNature and composition: Vegetal fraction rich in phytostimulines,prepared from corn seeds (no GMO) according to Filatov method.

Mode of action: Every living organism subject to stress reacts bysynthesising defensive substances or stimulines. Based on thisfundamental principle of "stimulation by stress" (followingsuccessive cycles of freezing and defrosting corn seeds), Oxycell is a powerful metabolic regulator which acts on cell respiration.

CTFA: Water (and) Zea mays (corn) kernel extract

Ω-Spheres® Integrity Biomimetic active microspheres for cutaneous integritypreservationNature and composition: Lipid microcoating (Ω6 cotton Ceramide, plantphytosterols, Plant-based fatty acids) of L-PCA, a stimulating signalmolecule of cell differentiation and a dry extract of cotton.

Mode of action: With a composition similar to that of epidermal lipids,the Ω-Spheres Integrity are active, lipophilic spheres rich in cottonΩ6 Ceramide allowing the strengthening and even the reconstitutionof the barrier function of the skin on the one hand, and, on the otherhand, the gradual release of L-PCA and a cotton extract in ordergently to stimulate the keratinocyte differentiation process.

CTFA: in progress

Restructuring effect of Ω6 Ceramide®

Control D14 Cream with 1% Ω6

Ceramide® D14

Nutricosmetics“Learn how to nourish your skin more effectively”

So, let’s summarise the tendencythat links the Health, Beauty &Nutrition aspects in any cosmeticproduct with well-being providingthe backdrop, of course!

In fact, the barriers between thesefields have dropped considerably– overlapping demands it!

It is proclaimed on all fronts that“proper nourishment increasesLife Expectancy” and we mighttherefore add that “propernourishment of the skin increases

Beauty Expectancy”… To this end,we not only have to change ournutritional profile by givingpreference to certain foodscompared with others, but we alsohave to chose the best ingredientsfor the skin in order to create adelicious diet!

We don’t need to look far andtherefore reintroduce into ourformulae, but in a balancedcomposition, Health and Beautyingredients such as carbohydrates,lipids, proteins, minerals andvitamins!


Microsphere inside Microsphere outside

“What is good for my health, is good for my skin and my hair too”


PA c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s

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Physiogenyl®

Physiological oligo-mineral catalystNature and composition: Association of sodium, magnesium, zinc andmanganese salts of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid or L-PCA,a physiological component of the epidermis, obtained bycyclisation of glutamic acid.

Mode of action: Specially designed to meet the nutritional needs oftired, dull skin with blotchy complexion, Physiogenyl's activity isbased on the synergy of sodium, magnesium, zinc and manganesesalts of L-PCA. Applied to the skin every morning to be"consumed" like breakfast for the cells, Physiogenyl covers theenergy needs of skin cells while providing the epidermis withoptimal moisturisation.

5.10-3% Physiogenyl stimulates by 81%the production of intracellular ATP.

After 1h incubation on confluent normal human keratinocytes

CTFA: Sodium PCA (and) Magnesium PCA (and) Zinc PCA(and) Manganese PCA

Phytovityl®

Phyto-energiser Special urban lifeNature and composition: Vegetal fraction rich in myo-inositol obtained by controlled hydrolysis from cornseeds (no GMO).

Mode of action: An ATP bioregenerator, Phytovityl provides a globalresponse to the ageing process (intrinsic and extrinsic) and offers theskin a natural solution to stimulate energy and protect it against dailyattack by free radicals and pollution (cadmium).

CTFA: Water (and) Zea mays (corn) kernel extract

Effect of Phytovityl® (5% cream) on the skin microrelief3D visualisation - Skin Image Analyzer

D0 D21

Peptiskin®

Anti-ageing peptideNature and composition:Oligopeptides ofL-lysine and L-arginine witha degree of polymerisationincluded between2 and 7, obtained by enzymatic synthesis (hydrolysis reversion).

Mode of action: Because of its structure rich in lysine and arginine,Peptiskin brings a global anti-ageing solution, acting on:stimulation of collagen I, III, V and decorin (proteoglycan)synthesis; inhibition of MMP1 synthesis; limitation of inter andintramolecular collagen fibres cross-linking (reticulation).

0.4% Peptiskin stimulates collagen I, III, and Vsynthesis respectively by 50%, 88% and 68%

CTFA: Arginine/lysine polypeptide

Arg-Lys-Lys-Lys Peptide

Pidolidone®

Physiological vectorNature and composition: L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid orL-PCA, a physiological component of the epidermis,obtained by cyclisation of glutamic acid.

Mode of action: As a link between energy metabolism (Krebs cycle), theprotein pool (precursor of proline and hydroxyproline, amino acids foundin collagen) and skin moisturisation (main constituent of NMF, NaturalMoisturising Factor), L-PCA improves the assimilation and fixation ofmineral (trace-elements) or organic (amino acids) ions bonded to it. Alsoused in perm products, Pidolidone protects hair fibres by neutralisingresidual ammonia.

CTFA: PCA

Radicaptol®

Anti-elastase phyto-activeNature and composition: Vegetal complex obtained byhydroglycolic extraction from passionflower, blackcurrant fruit and grapeleaf, titrated in total polyphenols and kaempferol.

Mode of action: Because of its anti-elastase and anti-radical properties,Radicaptol protects the elastic network of the dermis and blood vessels.Radicaptol provides a choice treatment to combat solar elastose,responsible for the loss of skin elasticity and tonus as well as the feelingof heavy legs.

CTFA: Propylene glycol (and) Water (and) Passiflora incarnata flowerextract (and) Ribes nigrum (Blackcurrant) fruit extract(and) Vitis vinifera (grape) leaf extract

Reasun®

Phyto-soothing active Special sun-induced stressNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated in curcuminoidsobtained by hydroglycolic extraction of Oceania saffron rhizomes, or ReaTahiti in Polynesia.

Mode of action: Thanks to its curcuminoid content, Reasun provides a choiceactive ingredient to limit and reduce irritation resulting from prolongedexposure to the sun. Absorbing in UVA and UVB wavelengths, Reasunprotects the skin's natural defences, particularly Langerhans cells.CTFA: Propylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract


Protective effect of Reasun® on Langerhans cellsSkin explant exposed to UV

Control 1% Reasun

Balance & Minerality“Towards mineral rejuvenation”

Conscious of their submission tothe refining and processingindustries, consumers are trying tomodify the direction of things bychanging their choices to authenticfood products, raw or steamed tolose as little of their vitamin andmineral wealth as possible.

Even yesterday they were stillmainly recommended for children,athletes and pregnant women, butminerals are now finding key usersat all levels of society, no matterwhat their age or sex…

Mainly found in water, fruits andvegetables, minerals areconcentrates of macro and traceelements which are essential tolife. At skin level, their role ispredominant because they are allinvolved in preserving the skin'sintegrity and hence in maintainingbeauty.

Involved in intercellular balanceand tissue formation, minerals playa major role in catalysing enzymereactions essential to healthy bodyfunction.



S

Cell communication“You have a message”

Nothing works once communicationbreaks down. Messages go astray,are incorrectly interpreted ormisunderstood, resulting in totalanarchy, which is difficult tocontrol. …Things are done any oldhow….

The same applies to the body and,more particularly to the skin! Withskin ageing, the cells lose theirability to communicate with eachother. Their connections are not asgood as they once were and themessages find it difficult to conveythe right information to the cells.So, to keep the skin active, we haveto activate or reactivate cellcommunication:

The epidermis is the first monitoringagent used by the skin in order to

withstand external aggression.

Thanks to its upper layer, theStratum corneum, as well as theimmunologically competentunderlying cells (keratinocytes,Langerhans’ cells and melanocytes,etc.) and its functional links withthe nervous system, the skin findsitself at the heart of a genuinecommunication system within whichnumerous intra- and extracellularinteractions are triggered. Thismajor skin messaging network is ledby the “Signal” molecules, whichact as transmitters of information,making the skin a neuro-immuneskin system with variousconnections.



16

Rhamnosoft® HP

Inflammation softening polysaccharide Special damaged skinNature and composition: Anionic polysaccharide (mean molecular weight6.104 D) obtained by bacterial fermentation, with a branchedsaccharide structure rich in rhamnose, galactose and glucuronic acid.

Mode of action: Because of its high L-rhamnose content, a sugarrecognised specifically by keratinocytemembrane receptors, Rhamnosoftinhibits cell adhesion and limits thepropagation of inflammatory reactionsin skin cells following an aggression.Rhamnosoft also stimulates therelease of ß-endorphins.

Specific fixation of Rhamnosoft ® HP on keratinocytes / Fluorescence microscopy

CTFA: Biosaccharide gum-2

Sebustop®

Phyto-astringent Special oily skinNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated in tanninsobtained from ginger rhizomes, great burnet roots and rhizomes and cinnamon bark, on a mixture of butylene glycol and water.

Mode of action: Because of its high tannin, essential oil andsaponoside content, Sebustop provides an ideal treatment for short-term reduction of excess sebum, cleansing and purifying the skin, toreveal its radiance.

CTFA: Butylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Cinnamomum cassiabark extract (and) Zingiber officinale (ginger) root extract(and) Poterium officinale root extract

Soyaline®

Extracellular matrix regeneratorNature and composition: Soya oligopeptides (no GMO) rich in proline,arginine and aspartic acid, with low molecular weight, obtained bycontrolled enzymatic hydrolysis.

Mode of action: Because of its high concentration of essential aminoacids, Soyaline is an excellent cell energiser, promoting the growth ofskin cells as well as their metabolism.

CTFA: Hydrolyzed soy protein

Skin-Tonic® AgeLessAnti-ageing tonifying productNature and composition: Hydroglycolic extract of juniper berries, titratedin flavonoïds and polyphenols.

Mode of action: Known for their antioxidant properties, polyphenols andflavonoids contained in Skin-Tonic AgeLess provide the skin with anti-ageing protection and contribute to limit the appearance of visiblesigns of ageing.

CTFA: Butylene glycol/ Water /Juniperus communis fruit extract

Skin-Tonic® HighPurityPurifying and tonifying active Special normal and oily skinNature and composition: Aqueous extract of juniper berries.

Mode of action: Its content in essential oils as well as in saponosides,natural surfactant, makes Skin-Tonic HighPurity, an active ingredient of choice to get rid spots and avoid an anti-seduction oily skin.

CTFA: Water/Juniperus communis fruit extract

Skin-Xcite®

Cutaneous exciting and tonifying agentNature and composition: Vegetal complex rich in phytostimulants(caffeine, theobromine, theophylline), obtained by hydroglycolicextraction from mate leaves, guarana and green coffee seeds.

Mode of action: Aphrodisiac and exciting vegetal cocktail to stimulateall the senses…

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Paullinia cupana seedextract (and) Coffea robusta seed extract (and) Ilex paraguariensisleaf extract

Effect of Sebustop® (5% gel)on the reduction of cutaneous pores

T0 T15mn

Skin-Tonic® AfterShaveSoothing and tonifying after-shaveNature and composition: Hydroalcoholic extract of juniper berries,titrated in softening sugars (glucose and fructose).

Mode of action: Its content in sugars, provides to Skin-Tonic AfterShavesoothing properties, to calm the razor burn and avoid cutaneousrednesses.

CTFA: Water/ Alcohol/Juniperus communis fruit extract


Z

WWaxidone®

Hydra-sensory physio-esterT

VVanirea®

UV phyto-protector Special sun-induced stressNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated in polyphenols(vanillin, vanillic acid…) and naturally rich in parahydroxybenzoate,obtained by hydroglycolic extraction from ripe vanilla pods,originating from Tahiti in Polynesia.

Mode of action: Thanks to its high concentration of polyphenols, Vanireaprovides an appropriate response to good oxidative stress managementthrough its excellent anti-radical activities. Allying protection withsensory pleasure and fun, Vanirea prevents actinic ageing and limitsthe appearance of apoptic cells or "sun-burn" cells.

CTFA: Propylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Vanilla tahitensis fruit extract



17

Protective effect of Vanirea® on the formation of sun-burn cellsSkin explant exposed to UVB

Exposed control 1% Vanirea

A natural, authentic & exotic approach“The call of the wild”

The need to be close to nature tofulfil a need to find ones roots andenjoy communion with the planet isone of our society's new aspects ofidentity. Not totally excluding thehigh-tech sector, virtual reality andmodernity, this desire to be natural,to return to our sources or look forthe exotic gives us access to simple,authentic pleasures, a taste offormer times or other lands.

Cosmetics can no longer ignorenature and today products which

do not include vegetal ingredientsare very rare. Veritable Proustiandelights loaded with history, ormedicinal remedies in the purestancestral tradition, from here orelsewhere, plants are reviving ourmemories of childhood, ourgustatory emotions and remindingus constantly of the solid link whichunites man and nature, with thegreatest respect for our Planet andits Biodiversity.

By Solabia, your Planet Partner

(I)

(II)

Trigogenine®

Phyto-firming active Special mature skinNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated in diosgenineand trigonelline, obtained by hydroglycolic extraction from fenugreekseeds.

Mode of action: Traditionally used for centuries for its action onremodelling the bust, fenugreek is a Mediterranean spice whichcomposition in proteins and phytohormones is particularly suitable for firming mature skin and stimulating cell metabolism.

CTFA: Butylene glycol (and) Water (and) Trigonellafoenum-graecum seeds extract

Tamarin AHA Phyto-stimulant of cell renewalNature and composition: Phyto-active ingredient titrated intartaric acid and also composed of citric and malic acids, obtainedby hydroglycerinic extraction from the pulp of tamarind fruit.

Mode of action: Because of its high concentration of α-hydroxyacidswith keratoregulatory properties, Tamarin AHA is particularly suitablefor treating oily skin and also for skin care intended to prevent theageing process, while promoting cell renewal on the skin surface.

CTFA: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Tamarindus indica extract

Zincidone®

Physio-seboregulatorNature and composition: Zinc salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid or L-PCA, a physiological component of the epidermis, obtained bycyclisation of glutamic acid.

Mode of action: Known for its action in inhibiting 5 α-reductase, zinc is a specific trace element for seboregulation. Zincidone, acombination of zinc and L-PCA, helps regulate the activity of thesebaceous glands reduces and reduce the level of skin sebum invivo. Its action on bacterial proliferation, notably onPropionibacterium acnes, helps limit the resulting irritation.

A 1% Zincidone cream reducesthe cutaneous sebum rate (22 μg/cm2).

CTFA: Zinc PCA

Nature and composition: Optimised combination of lauric (I) andbehenic (II) esters of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid or L-PCA, aphysiological component of the epidermis, obtained by amicrowave synthesis process, with no catalyst or residual solvent.

Mode of action: Because of its waxy structure and soft texture,Waxidone is ideal for lipstick formulae to which it brings softness,shine and emollience. An optimal combination of lauric and behenicester of L-PCA, Waxidone also increases the break point of lipsticksand compact foundations.

CTFA: Behenyl PCA (and) Lauryl PCA


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