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MPAS TrAvel MAgAzine of The yeAr 2010 | MPAS SPeciAl ediTion of The yeAr 2011

+ EXHILARATING CENTRAL ASIAN ADVENTURES4

Spectacular steppe meets chic citiesKAZAKHSTAN

Preparing for Persian New Year

HAPPY NOWRUZ!

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Navigator 4CeNTral aSIa IN 2013Time your trip to Central Asia to catch these exciting events and festivals

CitY SLiCKEr 6RUSSIA: 48 hOurS IN... MOSCOWTo appreciate Soviet influence in Central Asia, head to the Russian capital for great food and culture by the bucketload

WEEKENDEr 10kyRGyzSTAN: Tread lIGhTlYDiscover why eco-tourism has found an authentic new home in the mountainous wilderness of Kyrgyzstan

FEStivE 14ceNTRAl ASIA: CeleBraTING NOWruzThe perfect reason to come to Central Asia in the spring is an ancient festival with roots in Zoroastrianism that’s been around for thousands of years

LoSt 20kAzAkhSTAN: laNd OF The eNdleSS SKYThe world’s largest landlocked country offers travellers awe-inspiring natural beauty and cities combining neoclassical and ultramodern architecture

CONTENTS

No.22 Issue 5 | 2012 28

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aCtivE 28ceNTRAl ASIA: WalK ON The WIld SIdeWith some of planet’s most challenging and remote terrain on offer, skiers, trekkers, off-roaders and climbers need look no further than Central Asia

tHE Big PiCtUrE 38YOur GuIde TO CeNTral aSIaUnderstand all the essentials about the countries of Central Asia before you start planning your trip

ON The COver: A young Kazakh woman models traditional style clothing, reflecting Kazakhstan’s desire to show off not just its cultural heritage and natural wonders but also its modern and fashionable sides (Arman Zhenikeyev/Corbis)

viSa iNDEX 42An indispensable guide to getting a visa, with useful listings of consulates near you

roUNDUP 46A selection of travel-related news, announcements, product launches, and more

oNE For tHE roaD 48POSTCard FrOM CeNTral aSIaShow us your best capture of the region and stand a chance to win!


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THE ULTIMATETIGER BREWERY

EXPERIENCE


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opening the festival. For an interesting behind-the-scenes

preview, check out the jam sessions in the Cinema Bar Club before the evening concerts. Past festivals have hosted such performers as Virginia Mayhew, Arnie Lawrence, Francois Jeanneau,

Laco Tayfa, Robert Pawlik and Michaela Rabitsch (pictured).

3 May 2013, Uzbekistanasrlar Sadosi Festival of

Traditional Cultureasrlarsadosi.com/enOne of the grand projects of the Forum of Culture and Arts of Uzbekistan Foundation, the Asrlar Sadosi (“Echo of Ages”) Festival presents the diversity of Uzbek national traditions and customs, handicrafts and cuisine. Held in different

historical or cultural regions of Uzbekistan each year, and

organised in association with UNESCO, the festival

is an outdoor event that celebrates

the best of the country’s colourful traditions. An estimated 200,000 people have attended the festival

since its inauguration in 2008.

2013

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1 March, 2013, Ashgabat, Turkmenistan4th Nowruz World Festivalnow-ruz.com/portal/enNowruz, otherwise known as the Persian New Year, is celebrated across Central Asia (among the territories that came under the influence of the Persian Empire), and no matter where you are in Central Asia for this festival marking the first day of spring, you’ll find people in festive mood. In 2013, it’s Ashgabat’s turn to host the Nowruz World Festival, inviting foreign prime ministers and presidents from around the region, and laying on various cultural events in and around the city. Expect different games and competitions, and feasts featuring classic Nowruz dishes such as Samanu (Sumalak), a sweet paste made from wheat.

2 April 2013, Almaty, KazakhstanInternational almaty Jazz holidayjazz.kzFormerly known as “Jazz from A to Z”, the International Almaty Jazz Holiday is the signature event for lovers of jazz in Kazakhstan’s largest city. The events take place over three or four days at the Republic Schoolchildren Palace, with the Almaty Youth Jazz Band traditionally

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4 July 2013, Astana, Kazakhstanastana International action Film Festivalastanafestival.kzIf you’ve seen the American blockbuster Wanted, starring Angelina Jolie and Morgan Freeman, then you know the work of Kazakh film director Timur Bekmambetov, President of the three-day Astana International Action Film Festival, Kazakhstan’s summertime celebration of all things “action movie”. Screenings include a broad selection of films from Asia, the US and Europe, and you’re sure to spot one or two luminaries of the silver screen on the red carpet, whether they hail from Kazakhstan, Russia, Bollywood or Hollywood. 5 July/August 2013, Khorog, Tajikistan6th roof of the World Festivaltdc.tjThe Pamir Mountains are the spectacular venue for one of Central Asia’s most enthralling celebrations of traditional music, the evocatively named Roof of the World Festival. Held in Khorog, the capital of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province on the border with Afghanistan, the four-day festival attracts musicians, poets and artists from all over the Pamir and surrounding regions, including Afghanistan, China, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Pakistan, and draws crowds of more than 10,000 people. Attendees also get the opportunity to sample traditional foods, have a dip in the nearby hot springs and hike along little-known sections of the ancient Silk Road.

6 August 2013, Song Kul lakeshore, KyrgyzstanKyrgyz Kochu Festivalcbtkyrgyzstan.kgEver wondered how Central Asian nomads erect and dismantle their yurts? Or how Kyrgyz play the traditional “horse games”

7 August 2013, Issyk Kul lakeshore, Bel-Tam seaside,

KyrgyzstanBirds of Prey Festival

cbtkyrgyzstan.kgFew traditions are as valued by

the Kyrgyz as the ancient craft of capturing, training, and hunting

with birds of prey, and the breadth of knowledge surrounding the art, passed down from father to son through the ages, is astonishing – from bird physiology and migration patterns to the leather- and woodworking required to fashion the hunter’s equipment. In the past, a single falcon or golden eagle would support a small settlement and was therefore considered a highly prized member of the family. This rich history makes the Birds of Prey Festival a valuable immersion in Kyrgyz cultural traditions as well as a wonderful day’s excursion to the northern Tian Shan.

of Kyz Kuumai (“girl chasing”) or Tyiyn Enmei (picking up small flags from the ground while galloping)? Wonder no more! The Kyrgyz Kochu Festival packs in a full programme of cultural activities including all the above as well as traditional shows, music and cuisine. Attend the festival as part of a tour, and overnight in your own yurt – though you won’t have to put it up yourself.

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FriDaY NigHt:Check in to your hotel and head out for a drink at Kruzhka bar at Myasnitskaya. Enter in through a coffin-door, travel through low-rise ceilings into the basement, to a lively space teeming with the local expat crowd. Alternatively, head to My Bar in Kuznetsky, where the atmosphere changes every minute: a quiet Friday can explode into a dancing disco, making it a refreshingly laid back substitute for Moscow’s glamorous nightlife.

After a light drink, get your first taste of Russian cuisine at Shinok, a sprawling restaurant popularly known for its sinful meat cutlets and borsch (soup). Set inside a thick wooden-hewed interior, this restaurant offers king-size portions with bucketloads of flavour to excite your taste buds; you may have to say nyet to the last bite.

CITY SLICKER


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Clockwise from main: A classic view of the Kremlin and the Bolshoy Kamenny Bridge spanning Moskva River; Pushkinskaya Square’s monument to the great Russian poet Alexander Pushkin; Russian matryoshka dolls at a Moscow market; the colourful domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral.

HOURS IN…

MOSCOWText Preethi ramamoorthy

The mind-blowing Russian capital makes for the ideal side trip for journeys to Central Asia

48rUSSia

The locals might call it Moskva inside the Golden Ring, but for tourists Moscow will always be the land of intense revolution and social change, today a place where the past and present combine to captivate and charm. From the multicoloured church domes to the graves of Soviet heroes, from art galleries to picturesque country estates, Moscow may seem daunting at first, but the Russian capital is sure to enthral your senses.

SatUrDaY:A whistle-stop tour through Russian history begins with a stroll across Red Square. St Basil’s towering onion domes, Lenin’s Mausoleum and the GUM department store give a sneak peek into Russia’s multilayered past. Afterwards you can visit the Kremlin, the seat of power, and a complex plethora of cathedrals and palaces, including the State Armoury, the Assumption Cathedral and the 200 tonne Tsar Bell – the largest in the world.

All you’ll need after an exhausting sightseeing tour is a quiet lunch at Bochonok, a romantic cellar restaurant that sends you back to medieval times. Russian soups, stews, shashlik (kebabs) and pelmeni (dumplings) are prepared and grilled on an open fire, filling the space with a heavenly aroma.


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SatUrDaY NigHt:Elki-Palki is the best place to calm the hunger pangs with good value meals. Lounge under the oddly appealing plastic forest canopy and let the staff (mincing around in traditional costume) treat you to traditional Russian delicacies. Whether your thing is borsch, caviar or chicken, this Russian eatery packs in both Russians and foreigners alike.

Get your dose of culture with an evening performance of opera or ballet at Moscow’s iconic Bolshoi Theatre. But don’t just show up: you’ll need to purchase those precious tickets well in advance if you want the best seats.

Afterwards, head to the esoteric Gogol, tucked away off Stoleshnikov Pereulok and themed on the pre-revolutionary fin de siècle. It offers al-fresco music and cocktails alongside an excellent value tongue-in-cheek “Soviet menu”.

SUNDaY:Take a stroll in Ulitsa Arbat, a charming pedestrian street lined with delightful antique shops, boutiques, souvenir stalls, pavement cafés and a variety of restaurants, or escape the city for a wander around

hoW To geT There: There are direct flights from various Central Asian

countries, such as Air Astana (airastana.com) from Kazakhstan, as well as from major airports elsewhere in Asia. The easiest way of getting into the city is by taxi. Make sure you walk outside to the rank of official taxis and negotiate the price beforehand, as the meters installed are rarely used.

When To go: May through October is the hottest time of the year and is

considered the best period to visit Moscow, when it doesn’t get dark too early. If you’re not afraid of the cold, January and February are beautiful. Don’t rely on snow in November and December; this time of year is often just cold without the beauty.

Where To STAy: Moscow Marriot Tverskaya Hotel,

Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 34, Tel. +7-495-258-3000, marriott.com/mowtvAquamarine, Ozerkovskaya nab. 26, Tel. +7-495-580-2828, aquamarinemoscow.comStretenskaya, Ul. Sretenka 15, Tel. +7-495-933-5544, hotel-sretenskaya.ru/engRenaissance Moscow Hotel, Olimpsky pr. 18/1, Tel. +7-495-931-9000, marriott.com

Where To eAT And drinK: Kruzhka, Ul. Myasnitskaya 32/1, bldg. 1,

Tel. +7-495-644-3936, kruzhka.comMy Bar, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, Tel. +7-916-583-5279Shinok, Ul. 1905 Goda 2, Tel. +7-495-651-8101, shinok.ruBochonok, Ul. Myasnitskaya 24, bldg. 3, Tel. +7-495-625-0328, bochonok-m.ruElki-Palki, Ul. Neglinaya 8/10, Tel. +7-495-628-5525, elki-palki.ruGogol, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg. 1, Tel. +7-495-514-0944, mgogolclubs.ru

What to do: Red Square, Metro: Ohotnii Ryad,

Teatralnaya, Ploshad Revolutsii, Tel. +7-495-623-5527Kremlin, Metro: Alexandrovsky sad, Tel. +7-495-697-0349, kreml.ru/en Bolshoi Theatre, 1 Teatralnaya Ploshad, Tel. +7-499-250-7317, bolshoi.ru/enKolomenskoye, Andropova pr. 39, Metro: Kolomenskoye, Tel. +7-495-114-8298, mgomz.ru (in Russian)Krasnopresnenskiye Bani, Stolyarny per. 7, bldg. 1, Tel. +7-495-609-3550, baninapresne.ru (in Russian)

✓ESSENTIALS

Clockwise from main: The beautiful interior of Komsomolskaya Metro station; a chef prepares mouthwatering shashlik; the famous GUM department store on Red Square; shoppers on a Moscow street.

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Kolomenskoye, a lush green country estate much loved by the Tsars that is now an open-air museum of architecture.

Moscow’s intensity and fast-paced life can tire the mind and body after a while, but there’s a great remedy in the shape of the traditional Russian sauna at Krasnopresnenskiye Bani. One of Moscow’s nicest banya complexes, it is the perfect spot to get pampered and recharge your batteries – and perhaps contemplate your next visit. agP


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W E E K E N D E R


Text & Photos Sophie Ibbotson & Max lovell-hoare

Live like a nomad and discover the real Kyrgyzstan

KYrgYzStaN

TREAD LIgHTLY


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AlThoUGh there is little formal tourism infrastructure in the country, a few grassroots initiatives have sprung up in recent years, and this is a significant boon to independently minded travellers. Two such projects are Ashu Travel in Chong Kemin, and the nationwide Community Based Tourism (CBT) initiative.

The Ashu Guesthouse, 140 kilometres east of the capital Bishkek, is an oasis from Soviet concrete. Located in a traditional village house and also purpose-built wooden chalets, Stanbek Toichubaev, his mother and brothers have built an

environment that combines traditional Kyrgyz textiles and hospitality with the conveniences tourists expect (but rarely encounter in Kyrgyzstan): heating, proper bathrooms, electricity and running water. Topping it off you’ll find an indoor campfire, WiFi, and a gloriously hot sauna.

It is said that a horse carries with it the soul of a Kyrgyz man and so it is only when they ride together that the man can be complete. To gain a glimpse of the nomads’ culture and to begin to understand the complexities of Kyrgyzstan, one should head out beyond the Soviet-built cities and into the mountainous hinterland.

left: Chong Kemin (“Big Valley”), a popular site for trekking and white-water rafting.above: A Kyrgyz family serves tea in their yurt from a traditional Russian samovar.


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W E E K E N D E R


KNOW MORE

• The Kyrgyz flag shows a yellow sun with 40 rays. Each ray represents a warrior who fought with Manas, the legendary father of the Kyrgyz nation.

• Kyrgyz nomads traditionally trained golden eagles, captured from their nests as chicks, to hunt for rabbits and other small prey. This practice can still be seen in the eastern Issyk Kul region. The eagle’s trainer is called a berkutchi.

• An experienced man can erect his yurt in a matter of hours. Its wooden frame is strong but light and is covered with naturally waterproof felt.

• The national horse games festival takes place each summer in Jeti-Ögüz gorge. Here you can watch not only kok boru but also kyz

Although it may be tempting just to stay inside and enjoy these luxuries, the Ashu team are keen to get you outdoors and exploring. They can organise fiercely fought kok boru matches (otherwise known as “dead goat polo”) on the village pitch, white-water rafting on the Chong Kemin River and an array of tailor-made treks to glaciers, yurt camps and areas with a high concentration of flora and fauna.

If you plan to travel further afield, Ashu Travel can also provide the necessary horses and guides. Perhaps the most impressive horse trek takes you southwest from Chong Kemin to the remote alpine lake of Song Kul. The second largest lake in Kyrgyzstan, Song Kul is accessible only from June until late September, during which time nomads graze their flocks on the shore.

Recognising the beauty of this site, and also its significant distance from regular habitation, CBT’s office in Kochkor has arranged for a number of the nomads to open their yurts to visiting tourists. For your bed – or rather a space on the yurt’s carpet and a whole heap of blankets – you’ll pay 500 som (about US$11), and for an additional 300 som you’ll also get lunch and dinner. Your hosts are unlikely to speak a word of English but somehow it doesn’t matter: everything is done with a smile and you soon become accomplished at charades.

kuumai (“girl chasing”), where a young man races after a young girl to try to steal a kiss – whilst avoiding her horsewhip.

• Kyrgyz women make brightly coloured shyrdak (felt carpets) to decorate the walls of their yurts. Whatever their design, shyrdaks are always made in pairs with one being the mirror image of the other.

• The Kyrgyz revere their horses, but now and again one makes it onto the menu. If you are served horse at a meal, take it as a great compliment: horses are very valuable and only given to most honoured guests.


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hoW To geT There: Manas Airport in Bishkek has direct flights to

Dubai, Moscow, Istanbul and Urumqi, as well as to other airports in Central Asia, such as Almaty, Kazakhstan, on Air Astana (airastana.com). When flying to and from the Far East, visitors typically route via Moscow or Almaty. Coming overland, Kyrgyzstan has open border crossings with China, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. A Russian-built railway line still links Bishkek to Moscow, though the journey takes three days.

When To go: From May until October, Kyrgyzstan’s mountains and

lakes are a natural paradise. The final dustings of snow give way to hot sunshine, a riot of colourful flowers and a rich harvest of apricots, cherries, strawberries and nuts. The northern shore of Issyk Kul becomes crowded in July and August, but the rest of the country remains marvellously quiet.

Where To STAy: Kyrgyzstan has one international hotel, the four-star

Hyatt in Bishkek (hyatt.com). Outside of the capital, visitors are reliant on smaller Soviet-era hotels and the much-preferable network of guesthouses and homestays. CBT (cbtkyrgyzstan.kg) can book homestay accommodation across the country, and the Ashu Guesthouse is bookable through Ashu Travel (ashu.kg).

Where To eAT: Kyrgyz cusine revolves around the staples of a

nomadic diet: meat and dairy products. Whilst kymyz (fermented horse milk) may not be to everyone’s taste, expect to enjoy numerous varieties of shashlik (kebab), shorpo (soup) and laghman (noodles with mutton), washed down, of course, with plenty of Russian vodka.

✓EssENtIaLs

KYRGYSTAN

KAZAKHSTAN

UZBEKISTAN

CHINA

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T i a n S h a n

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KarakolJeti-Ögüz

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TAJIKISTAN

left: Three yurts at Song Kul in the Tian Shan range. Insert: The tunduk at the top of the yurt is also the centrepiece of Kyrgyzstan’s national flag.above: Kok boru (aka “dead goat polo”) is an aggressive sport derived from the historic raiding of rivals’ flocks.

The greatest advantage of CBT is that you get to see Kyrgyz family life firsthand. If you’re keen to round up the goats or learn to milk a yak, your hosts will be more than willing to let you try. The children may laugh at your feeble attempts to do what they themselves can do standing on their heads, but any such competition is good natured. Most important of all, your money goes straight into the local community, supporting not only the family you stay with but also conservation and development projects in the region that improve the standard of living for all. agP


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NOWRUZHow the Persian New Year became Central Asia’s most important festivalText Ian Seldrup

The anti-religious communist government banned it in the former Soviet republics. In Tajikistan, it was renamed “Tulip Celebration” to avoid the ire of authorities. When the Taliban were in power in Afghanistan, it was outlawed – an ancient pagan holiday centred on fire worship that was against Islam. The theocratic leaders of Iran felt the same way when they came to power in 1979.

Today, in better times, it is a four-day public holiday in Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Afghanistan, and a day off for Kyrgyz and Uzbeks. Alongside the Muslim festivals of Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha, it is the biggest celebration in Central Asia. If you’re travelling to this part of the world, you’ve got every reason to come in spring: it’s time to celebrate Nowruz.


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Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan: Kyrgyz girls, wearing traditional costumes, take part in a cele-bration to mark the Persian New Year.


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To understand Central Asia’s relationship with Nowruz (also spelled Novruz, Nowrouz, Nooruz, Navruz, Nauroz or Nevruz, and otherwise referred to as the “Persian New Year”), it helps to know a little bit of the history. Indeed, there’s a whole lot of history behind this ancient festival.

Nowruz has been celebrated for thousands of years. Its beginnings are partly rooted in Zoroastrianism, the dominant religious tradition in Greater Persia, an area that was centred in present-day Iran and stretched east as far as Pakistan and western China, west to Iraq and eastern Turkey, and north to Kygyzstan and Uzbekistan. Among other concepts, Zoroastrianism emphasises ideas such as the connection of humans to Nature, and the work of good and evil in the world.

While the religion dwindled with the rise of Islam (Zoroastrianism is now only found in isolated pockets of southern Iran and India), Nowruz had been established as a popular celebration among the communities that grew from these Persian cultural areas. In Iran, the traditions have been wholly integrated

right: Tashkent, Uzbekistan: A girl dances an Uzbek national dance during the traditional spring festival.Far right: Mazar-i-Sharif, Afghanistan: People gather at the Shrine of Hazrat Ali to watch a ceremony for Nowruz that includes raising a large banner.Below: Ashgabat, Turk-menistan: With a portrait of President Berdymukhamedov in the background, Turkmen in traditional costume celebrate the Nowruz holiday in the capital.

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with Islamic spiritual life, but in surrounding countries, Nowruz is a festival celebrated by people from diverse religious backgrounds and ethnic communities.

Celebrated on or around March 21, Nowruz (from the Persian words now, meaning “new”, and ruz, meaning “day”) marks the beginning of the year on the Persian calendar and the first day of spring. As such, the holiday is about the revival of Nature, the beginning of new life, the rekindling of ties between relatives and neighbours – a time to be joyful, forgiving and kind. The symbolism appears in a riot of colour across the region, as trees and flowers begin to bloom, and markets from Ashgabat to Almaty, Bukhara to Bishkek begin to overflow with fresh fruit and vegetables.

The rituals associated with Nowruz are numerous and diverse, with families in different countries – or even different regions or cities within the same country – celebrating in varied ways. Some are very public affairs, while others take place in the home, and travellers need to become houseguests to experience the traditions observed by families. For many, preparations begin several days or weeks prior to the New Year, with a thorough spring cleaning of the home. It is customary to purchase new clothing and even new furniture.

In some places, on the night of the last Wednesday of the old year, people celebrate Chahar Shanbe Suri (literally “Wednesday Feast”). Lighting small bonfires in the streets, some will leap over the flames and yell out, “Zardi-ye-man az to, sorkhi-ye to az man!” – Persian for “May my (sickly) yellowness be yours and your red glow be mine!” The idea is that all of the negativities of the past year are taken away by the fire in exchange for

INTERNATIONAL DAY Of NOWRUZ

Inscribed in 2009 on the UNESCO List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, Nowruz “promotes values of peace and solidarity between generations and within families as well as reconciliation and neighbourliness, thus contributing to cultural diversity and friendship among peoples and different communities”.

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warmth, health and vitality for the coming year. Many choose to light a bonfire and simply shout the immortal words –

skipping the part about leaping over the flames.

In many countries where Nowruz is celebrated, the main event is the food. Iranians prepare the haft-seen

ceremonial table, set with seven (haft) special edible items beginning with the letter “S” (seen): sumac (crushed spice

of berries), senjed (sweet dried fruit of the lotus tree), serkeh (vinegar), seeb (apples), sir (garlic), sabzeh (sprouted wheat grass) and samanu

(wheat pudding) – each with a symbolic significance.In Central Asia, much of the focus is on the

making of samanu (also called samanak or sumalak). After a long period of repeated germinating, washing and grounding the wheat, it is boiled for many

hours in giant pots, often during the night and always accompanied by lively dancing and singing of folk songs. By morning, when the sumalak is ready, relatives, friends and neighbours get together and enjoy the hearty dish along with an impressive parade of special Nowruz treats. Classic Central Asian dishes like the rice-based plov are prepared with a special festive twist, adding the finest meat and the best quality ingredients such as quail eggs.

For travellers, it’s the Nowruz celebrations taking place in public that are the most interesting. Special events are laid on in the squares and open spaces of many of Central Asia’s major

cities, with festivities taking on many different forms. Dance and song feature prominently, with performers wearing elaborate traditional costumes, and crowds dress in their finest clothes for the occasion.

Nowruz is also a great opportunity to catch one of Central Asia’s most thrilling spectacles: the Afghan national sport of

buzkashi, or kok boru, as it is known in the former Soviet republics (or kokpar in Kazakhstan). Somewhat at odds with the typical New Year notions of goodwill and neighbourliness, buzkashi, which literally means “goat grabbing”, involves two large teams of men on horseback battling to grab a headless goat carcass and gallop off with it to score points. The opposing side can do virtually anything to try and snatch the goat back – kicking, punching, horsewhipping – and

the result is a ferocious contest that requires spectators with strong stomachs and very loose attitudes when it comes to animal rights.

No matter where you are in Central Asia around March 21, but especially if you’re in the region’s capitals, you’re almost certain to find Nowruz celebrations in full swing. Without question, there’s no better time to see the diverse peoples of the region – Uzbeks, Tajiks, Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, Turkmen and others – proudly showing off the same vibrant rituals and traditions that have been practised for generations. agP

✓ESSENTIALS

hoW To geT There: Central Asia is best accessed via Almaty,

Kazakhstan, on Air Astana (airastana.com), or Moscow, Russia. Both their international airports receive direct flights from major cities throughout Asia and are well connected to Central Asia’s capitals.

When To go: Nowruz falls on March 21, but can also be the day

before or after. Preparations typically begin at least a day earlier (and sometimes days in advance), and festivities last for several days. In some places, the fire-jumping rituals happen on the night before the last Wednesday of the year.

Where To STAy: In both Almaty and Astana (Kazakhstan), a good bet

is the Turkish luxury chain Rixos (rixos.com). In Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) or Dushanbe (Tajikistan) try the Hyatt (hyatt.com). Sofitel (sofitel.com) is an excellent choice if you’re in Ashgabat (Turkmenistan). In Uzbeki-stan, try the InterContinental Tashkent (ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental) or Jahongir Bed and Breakfast (jahongirbandb.com) if you’re celebrating in Samarkand.

WhAT To eAT: Large Nowruz celebrations should give you the

opportunity to sample the Central Asian street food classics, especially manti (dumplings) and shashlik (chicken or mutton kebabs). But keep an eye out for the nuts, fruits and vegetables filling markets with the onset of spring.

iN maNY CoUNtriES WHErE NoWrUz iS CELEBratED, tHE maiN EvENt iS tHE FooD.

left: Baikonur, Kazakhstan: Kazakhs cook a Nowruz dish made from wheat germ called samanu.Far left: Rudaki, Tajikistan: Tajik riders fight for the body of a goat in a game of buzkashi as they take part in Persian New Year celebrations.

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L O S T

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LAND Of THE

ENDLESS SKYJourney to the heart of the Central Asian steppe

Text Mark lumley


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A lone horse grazes on the Kazakh Steppe, a 800,000-square-kilometre region of open grassland that extends across the north of the country.

The sun rises over mile after mile of unbroken steppe, highlighting with a pink-orange halo the curve of the earth clearly visible on the far horizon. The million and one stars, each one sparkling and distinct but an hour ago, have faded now from view, and in their place a cloudless blue sky arches unbroken as far as the eye can see. In a world so full of people, traffic and noise, there are few places where you can still be truly alone. This last, lost wilderness is Kazakhstan’s greatest draw.

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KAzAKhSTAn’S past has been defined by its space and its emptiness: the seasonal migrations of generations of steppe nomads and their flocks; the epic journeys of Silk Road merchants and pilgrims; the arrival of the Turkestan-Siberia Railway; Khrushchev’s Virgin Lands Campaign; the Semipalatinsk Test Site; and the Baikonur Cosmodrome, whence Yuri Gagarin was propelled into orbit in 1961. Despite the glitz of booming Caspian oil towns and the post-independence capital of Astana, the heart of Kazakhstan remains in its wild places, where history and the natural world meet.

Though no longer the political centre, Almaty is Kazakhstan’s transport and cultural hub, and it’s here that most visitors’ exploration of the country will begin. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks rising more than 4,000 metres above sea level, Almaty’s location is particularly picturesque and the city’s architecture encompasses not only neo-classical designs from the Tsarist era and the inevitable Soviet concrete, but also modern creations that catch the eye and attest to the wealth that exploitation of Kazakhstan’s oil and gas resources have brought.

Sightseeing typically begins with a cable car ride to the top of Kok Tobe (the Green Mountain) for panoramic views across the city, and maybe a bite to eat at one of the novelty cafés housed inside traditional Kazakh yurts (felt tents). Suitably replenished, you can stroll the 20 minutes back down to the city centre, with its impressive Central State Museum, Academy of Sciences and the Kasteev State Museum of Arts.

Those with an interest in architecture should visit Panfilov Park, where the Cathedral of the Holy Ascension, one of the tallest wooden structures in the world, has been built without

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use of a single nail. Its onion domes and attractive bell tower give a nod to life in the city prior to the arrival of Communism, a sense which is reinforced as you rummage amongst the dried apricots, pickled carrots and cheap Chinese imports on sale in the nearby Green Bazaar. No visit to Almaty is complete without a trip to the beautiful Abay Opera and Ballet Theatre, so end your day by taking in a performance (the local version of Swan Lake has a particularly unexpected

twist), undoubtedly replete with a full orchestra, and drinking ample quantities of sweet Georgian champagne in the atmospheric foyer.

Top: Kok Tobe mountain overlooks Kazakhstan’s largest city and former capital, Almaty.above: Street musicians provide some entertainment for passersby in Almaty.Opposite Page: The 14th-century Ahmed Yasawi Mausoleum, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is one of Turkestan’s prime attractions.


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difficulty, all of which offer spectacular mountain views, well-placed picnic and camping spots, and unforgettable swathes of springtime flowers. The Garysh astronomical observatory, a decaying Soviet relic, provides an intriguing diversion – and contrast – from the beauty of Nature, and those without a need for creature comforts can even stay the night amidst its disused satellite dishes and other observational equipment.

As Kazakhstan’s ancient people were largely nomadic, the country has far fewer historic settlements than neighbouring Uzbekistan. The notable exceptions are on its southern edge, however, where Silk Road caravanserais would stop to rest and trade, bringing significant wealth to local communities. Such wealth was often invested in elaborate shrines for local Sufi saints, which in turn generated further income as Muslim pilgrims flocked there to pray. The most important of these shrines is at Turkestan, where the body of the 12th-century mystic Khodja Ahmed Yassaui is entombed beneath a mighty Timurid edifice.

Turkestan is a remarkable town. Though heavily restored, the mausoleum complex (which includes not only the tomb of Yassaui but also those of Rabiga Sultan Begim, the wife of Abulkhair Khan and the daughter of Emperor Ulugbek, and the 16th-century Kazakh leader, Esim Khan) and the 12th-century sunken mosque on the same site are the best examples of

Almaty’s highlights ticked off your list, the adventure can truly begin, and with relatively little effort as the Ile Alatau National Park virtually encroaches on the city. Winter sports fans will be familiar with the name of Medeu, the world’s highest ice rink and the site at which numerous speed skating records have been broken. The rink was renovated to host the 2011 Winter Asian Games, and providing a training session is not in progress you can hire a pair of skates and take to the ice yourself.

If skiing is more your thing, the Chimbulak resort (also within the park’s confines) has four chair lifts and a gondola, and it is even possible to try heli-skiing. Both full and half-day passes are available. Trekkers too will be in their element: the environs of the Bolshaya Almatinka River and Lake provide numerous routes of varying

No viSit to aLmatY iS ComPLEtE WitHoUt a triP to tHE BEaUtiFUL aBaY oPEra aND BaLLEt tHEatrE, So END YoUr DaY BY taKiNg iN a PErFormaNCE.

medieval architecture in Kazakhstan. The elaborate tile work and turquoise domes give the more famous skylines of Samarkand and Bukhara a run for their money, whilst rarely if ever being crowded with tourists. Your only companions are likely to be wedding parties posing for pictures in the immaculately maintained rose garden, and an occasional pilgrim who believes, somewhat controversially, that three visits here are of equal value to going on Hajj to Mecca.

An hour’s drive north of Turkestan on the road to Kyzylorda is a second, even less-visited (though no less historically significant) tomb: the Arystan Bab Mausoleum. Legend has it that Arystan Bab was a companion of the Prophet Muhammad who lived for hundreds of years, not in fact dying until the 12th century, by

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West of the Aral Sea and its misery, and straddling the border with Uzbekistan, is the Ustyurt Plateau, a series of drainless basins that are now contained within the Ustyurt Plateau Reserve. Though the mountains in the east do offer excellent wildlife spotting opportunities, it is in the wilderness here that you are most likely to catch a glimpse of Golden eagles, Saker falcons and Egyptian vultures. For the most patient and keen-sighted, caracal lynx, Persian gazelles and the Ustyurt mouflon (a kind of wild sheep) also make this land their home.

It is nigh on impossible to cross much of this terrain by road, and whether you choose to trek on foot or on horseback, you’ll need to come well prepared. The area is sparsely inhabited by people, and those who do reside here eke out a subsistence living rearing goats and camels on the scrub. Trekking routes can be easily varied according to ability but expect to carry everything with you and be cognisant that the weather is prone to rapid change.

Although the country is landlocked, the southwestern corner boasts fine coastlines along the Caspian Sea, and the harbour cities of Atyrau and Aktau are where Kazakhs head in summer for a dip and some rays of sunshine. Those keen to see the modern, wealthy face of Kazakhstan should travel on across the country to Astana, the country’s capital, which President Nazarbayev has created to showcase his glitzy vision for independent Kazakhstan. Internationally renowned architects Kisho Kurokawa and Norman Foster have brought his vision to life, and the results are quite extraordinary.

Perhaps the most talked-about addition to Astana’s skyline is the Khan Shatyr, the world’s biggest tent. The term “tent” is perhaps a misnomer because although its appearance is tepee-esque, the structure rises 150 metres, is constructed from a lattice work of steel and glass, and contains an indoor beach, canals with gondolas, a golf course and a miniature train. Despite Astana’s dramatic temperature shifts from summer to winter (a difference

which time he had met and mentored Khodja Ahmed Yassaui. The broad façade of his 14th-century mausoleum is flanked by two domed minarets; attentively carved wooden pillars decorate the small mosque inside.

Kyzylorda seemingly marks the meeting point of habitation and the wide-open steppe – conurbations now are few and far between, an occasional fuel station the only constant landmark. The landscape appears bleak and barren, but it wasn’t always so: in the course of 40 years, the Aral Sea, once one of the four largest lakes in the world, has shrunk to just 10 percent of its original size. The retreating waters have caused climate change and an increase in sand storms. The fishing industry has been desecrated, the land is both saline and heavily polluted, and once prosperous ports are now mere ghost towns.

Problems here began when Soviet planners decided to redirect the waters of the Amu Darya (Oxus) and Syr Darya (Jaxartes) Rivers to irrigate the desert. Canals were built to enable to growing of water-intensive crops such as melons, rice and cotton, and as much as 75 percent of the water was lost to evaporation. With its lifeblood cut off, the Aral Sea began to shrink, and the fall of the Soviet Union bought no relief as independent Uzbekistan continued to prioritise cotton production above environmental considerations. The water retreated from the harbours, the fish died as salinity levels rose in what little water remained, and toxic waste once dumped on islands in the sea suddenly became accessible on foot.

Kazakhstan’s tragedy has brought foreign aid, and also a steady flow of environmentalists and disaster tourists. The town of Aralsk, once a thriving port, now houses empty canneries, skeletal cranes long out of use, and the rusting hulks of ships for which there is no water. The ships’ graveyards that dot the land make for striking photos but also provide a stark warning of the very real risks of meddling with Nature.

left: Beachgoers enjoy themselves at the Ural River near Atyrau, the country’s main harbour city on the Caspian Sea.Opposite (Top): The beautiful Nur-Astana Mosque in the capital is Central Asia’s largest.Opposite (Bottom left): Inside the “world’s biggest tent”, Astana’s amazing Khan Shatyr.Opposite (Bottom right): People relax at the beach club at the top of Khan Shatyr.

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Bayterek, Astana’s iconic monument, has become a well-known symbol of the city.


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KAZAKHSTAN

RUSSIAN FEDERATION

CHINAKYRGYZSTAN

TURKMENISTAN

UZBEKISTAN

Dostyk

Almaty

Semey

Pavlodar

KokshetauKostanai

Petropavlosk

Aktobe

Uralsk

Aralsk

Baikonur

Kyzylorda

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A R A LS E A

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L a k eZ a y s a n

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Ushkony rP la t eau

Us t yu r tP la t eau

ASTANA

BISHKEK

TASHKENT

K a z a k h S t e p p e

BAKU

Atyrau

Aktau

of as much as 60 degrees Celsius), the Khan Shatyr is temperature-controlled so that it is always a balmy 24 degrees inside.

Elsewhere in Astana, the Palace of Peace and Harmony is a glass pyramid built as a permanent home for the triennial Congress of World and Traditional Religions, and it also houses the State Museum of Gold and Precious Metals. The Baiterek Tower (jokingly referred to as “Chupa-Chups” due to its lollipop-like form), topped with a golden globe, has become a symbol of Astana, and it is possible to climb to the top for inspiring views of the ever-growing city. Last but not least amongst the more unusual tourist sites on offer is Atameken, a 3D map of Kazakhstan that covers a 1.7-hectare park. Model flamingos and sturgeon will help you to identify the Caspian Sea at the entrance, and you can then walk your way across the country (complete with artificial mountains, canyons and rivers) whilst taking in a rocket launch at Baikonur, the ubiquitous yurts and a selection of toy camels on AstroTurf. Who needs a museum when you can have an entire country at your feet?

Before returning to Almaty, two of the grimmer periods of Kazkahstan’s history do draw occasional tourists, and they demand remembrance if not an actual visit. A few dozen kilometres from Astana is the Museum in Memory of the Victims of Repression, a conical structure inside what was once the notorious ALZHIR internment camp. The wives and children of those who had purportedly betrayed the USSR were imprisoned here between 1937 and 1946. The museum and the accompanying Arch of Grief tell the story of these prisoners, the intellectuals deported and killed during Stalin’s purges, and also those who suffered and died as a result of collectivisation. What could be a macabre exhibit in fact sensitively handles what must be Kazakhstan’s darkest days, leaving visitors deeply saddened but also better informed.

Kazakhstan is as varied and constantly intriguing as it is vast. Inevitably its location behind the Iron Curtain and subsequent need to reassert itself as an independent nation hampered its early promotion, but 20 years on, the time is ripe for adventurous visitors to blaze the trail, and for inquisitive but less self-assured holidaymakers to follow behind in coaches and on guided tours. Kazakhstan’s infrastructure is improving: its main roads are now multi-lane highways, the domestic air network is comprehensive and cheap to fly, and the concrete hotels with hard beds and “Soviet service” are finally giving way to more comfortable, internationally minded competitors. If you want to see Kazakhstan before the rush, now is the time to go. Wait a while, and the world may just catch up with the wilderness. agP

hoW To geT There: Almaty is Kazakhstan’s main hub for flights,

and it is well served by international airlines. Air Astana (airastana.com), Kazakhstan’s reliable national carrier, flies direct to Abu Dhabi, Beijing, Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur, as well as European destinations, whilst other airlines connect to both Almaty and Astana via Abu Dhabi, Moscow and Istanbul. The domestic flight network is surprisingly good in Kazakhstan, and the government often subsidises flight tickets. Travel from Russia, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan is possible using the slow but relatively cheap railway system. The railway also serves some domestic routes, though intercity coach services tend to be faster and more comfortable.

When To go: With its classic Central Asian hot summers and icy

winters, Kazakhstan has distinctive high (May to September) and low (November to March) seasons. The warmest months, July to September, are ideal for trekking in the mountains, when Astana and Almaty can be very hot. Mid-winter temperatures (December to February) in Almaty drop below freezing and typically linger around –10°C to –20°C in the capital. The ski season in Chimbulak (25 km south of Almaty) lasts from November to April.

Where To STAy: The availability, quality and price of

accommodation in Kazakhstan largely depend on your location. The greatest choice, not unpredictably, is in Astana and Almaty, where new hotels seem to open on an almost weekly basis, though prices here are significantly higher than elsewhere in the country, even for quite modest options. The Turkish luxury chain Rixos (rixos.com) has excellent hotels in Almaty and Astana, while the Dostyk Hotel (dostyk.kz) in Almaty is a good alternative, if not quite the promised five stars. In smaller towns, the only hotel may well be a less-than-ideal Soviet relic, the consolation being that these hotels are generally cheap. Far better, if you have the opportunity, is to reside with a local family, either in a guesthouse or home stay. You may not share a word in common but the hospitality is warm and the food home cooked. Local tour guides can usually advise you on the availability of this kind of accommodation, and it is also covered in some depth in the Bradt Guide to Kazakhstan (bradtguides.com).

WhAT To eAT: If you are a vegetarian, Kazakhstan is not the

place for you. Popular dishes include shashlik (chicken or mutton kebabs, with cubes of fat as well as meat), plov (mutton and fat on rice) and shorpo (mutton and fat soup with thick noodles). The fermented beverages of choice of the Central Asian nomad – kymyz (mare’s milk) and shubat (camel’s milk) – are good fun to try. Bottled water and soft drinks are also widely available, and the fresh fruit juices are particularly good.

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A C T I V E

Shut for decades behind the Iron Curtain, the once wealthy and cosmopolitan khanates of Central Asia, situated as they were at the heart of the Silk Road, have drifted out of view. And yet, in this wilderness of under-populated steppe and mountains, far from the maddening crowds, is one of the greatest concentrations of opportunities for adventure anywhere on earth.

Rightly called “the roof of the world”, the Ala-Tau, Tian Shan, Pamir and Hindu Kush mountains all converge within a few hundred miles, enticing curious climbers, overlanders, trekkers and skiers to their majestic, snow-capped realm. Facilities may be few, and the best sites hardly accessible, but pursuing the path less trodden has its own attraction: the wild just keeps on calling.

Walk onthe Wild Side

Climbers camp on a snowy ledge in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley.

CENtraL aSia

Test your limits in Central Asia’s most extreme environments

Text Sophie Ibbotson & Max lovell-hoare

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A C T I V E

Heli-skiing in Kazakhstan IF you hear “Kazakhstan” and immediately write it off as the land of Borat, you are sadly not alone. What you might be missing out on, however, is some of the best skiing east of the Alps, and a surprising selection of resorts vamped up for the 2011 Winter Asian Games.

If the ski lift to Chimbulak’s Talgar Pass (3,200 metres) is a little tame, why not consider heli-skiing? Kazakhstan is developing a dedicated following of adrenalin junkies who pursue the powder-soft snow of the Altai, Ala-Tau and Tian Shan mountains. Russian-built Mi-8 helicopters are cheap to hire and there are numerous set-down points from which you can explore off-trail.

In the Ala-Tau range alone, just 30 kilometres from Almaty, there is an incredible 469 square kilometres of glaciers. The Korzhenevskogo glacier alone is more than 11 kilometres long. There is thick snow cover for six months a year, and at heights over 3,000 metres the snow stays year round. The high-altitude skiing season (which is only accessible by helicopter) lasts from January to June and the snow thickness averages 1.1–1.5 metres depending on the month. Temperatures above 3,500 metres are a not-so-balmy –15 Celsius in January, but a more tolerable –3 to –6 Celsius by May.

The duration of your trip is, obviously, a matter of personal choice, but look to have at least four days on the slopes, with

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an additional day available in case bad weather prevents flying or skiing earlier in your trip. You can expect to make between three and five runs per day, depending on their length and the experience of those in your party.

As with heli-skiing anywhere in the world, an experienced guide who knows the terrain is essential. In addition to inclement weather, avalanches are a genuine danger and all professionally run heli-skiing tours should include safety and anti-avalanche equipment training before you head onto the mountains. The importance of adequate travel insurance cannot be over-stressed, and one that includes Medevac is highly recommended.

mEDiCaL FaCiLitiES iN CENtraL aSia arE EXtrEmELY LimitED, So maKE SUrE YoUr travEL iNSUraNCE iNCLUDES ProviSioN For EmErgENCY EvaCUatioN iF rEqUirED.

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DoN’t EvEr SKi aLoNE, aND rEqUESt at LEaSt oNE gUiDE For EvErY FivE SKiErS.

left: A snowboarder demonstrates his prowess on the Kazakh slopes.right: A helicopter landing in the Tian Shan mountains.


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A C T I V E

trekking in the Wakhan The Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan’s extreme northeast was the undisputed centre of the Great Game: Russian and British spies met on this narrow strip between their respective empires, and it was here that men such as Francis Younghusband and the future Lord Curzon cut their expeditionary teeth. In the 1960s and 70s Russian mountaineers made a number of first ascents – the Hindu Kush alone has 38 peaks over 7,000 metres – and, in recent years, foreign visitors are making use of the region’s relatively stable security situation to once again climb, trek and explore.

Trekking in the Wakhan is not for the faint-hearted: the area is hard to reach, mod cons are non-existent, and treks are physically demanding, particularly at high altitude. That said, if you love the great outdoors, and getting away from it all fills you with thrills, there are few more beautiful, under-appreciated places to visit.

WiLDLiFE LovErS CaN EXPECt to SEE LammErgEYEr vULtUrES, goLDEN EagLES aND CoLoUrFUL HooPoES iN tHE WaKHaN. marCo PoLo SHEEP, iBEX aND CamEra-SHY SNoW LEoParDS aLSo LivE iN tHE CorriDor’S rEmotEr vaLLEYS.


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Perhaps the most spectacular trek starts where the Wakhan’s only road ends: Sarhad-e Broghil. Your mountain guide will help you choose your porters or pack animals (ponies or yaks), and you can sleep one last night in a bed at the basic guesthouse. As you climb above the village, look right towards Pakistan: the Broghil Pass (3,882 metres) is particularly photogenic.

The greatest challenge (and highlight) on the trek’s first day is crossing the Daliz Pass (4,267 metres). The long, steep climb suddenly opens onto a grassy, windswept plateau, with the peaks of the Afghan Pamir and Hindu Kush unfurled breathtakingly before you. It is as if surveying a child’s model of the mountains, and you can do nothing but stand and stare.

Over the coming days, your path winds its way up (and occasionally down) through the empty settlements of Borak and Langar. Except for the occasional goat herder or Kyrgyz horseman,

you’re unlikely to see a soul. It is not until you pass Kashch Goz on the fourth day that habitation will come into view, and even then it is unlikely to be more than a handful of yurts.

The trails divide at Bozai Gumbaz, the Kyrgyz yurt settlement made (almost) famous in Greg Mortensen’s book Stones into Schools, his sequel to Three Cups of Tea. Thanks to the efforts of the Central Asia Institute (www.ikat.org), this seemingly barren wasteland at the end of the world does now have a functioning school, the materials for which were carried from Tajikistan on the backs of men and donkeys. It’s both a humbling and fascinating experience to talk with the teachers and their enthusiastic students.

From Bozai Gumbaz, trekkers have a number of options: head southwest towards the Wakhjir Pass (4,923 metres) with China, passing the ice cave that is a source of the Oxus River; trek further north to Chaqmaqtin Lake; or complete a loop back to Sarhad, taking in three more passes, each over 4,500 metres.

above: The ascent from the village of Sarhad-e Broghil to the Daliz Pass.left: A caravan of Kyrgyz horsemen in the Afghan Pamir.Insert: A nomadic yurt camp at Bozai Gumbaz in the Wakhan Corridor.

tHE aga KHaN DEvELoPmENt NEtWorK (aKDN) PUBLiSHES a SHort gUiDE to trEKKiNg roUtES iN tHE WaKHaN (akdn.org/publications/2010_akf_wakhan.pdf)

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A C T I V E

4x4 overlanding in tajikistan For four-by-four fans, the Pamir Highway that lassoes its way across Tajikistan is the kind of road that dreams are made of. It is the second highest altitude highway in the world, reaching a pant-inducing 4,655 metres above sea level, and, in its primitive stages, it was one of the southern branches of the Silk Road. The modern road is paved in places, but mostly surfaced with gravel. Rainfall, avalanches and glacial melt-water regularly wash even that away.

The Pamir Highway, also known (perhaps optimistically) as the M41, enters Tajikistan from Kyrgyzstan to the south of Sary Tash. Its route to the town of Murgab on the Pamir Plateau is its highest stretch, giving rise to its fitting moniker “the roof of the world”. This part of the journey is also the loneliest: the scenery is stark and largely devoid of features – an occasional yurt or wandering camel is a welcome distraction. Even Murgab itself is only home to a few thousand people.

ForEigN vEHiCLES ENtEriNg tajiKiStaN rEqUirE a PErmit. tHiS CaN BE PUrCHaSED at tHE BorDEr aND CoStS aroUND US$50.

Three hundred kilometres to the southwest is Khorog, the capital of Tajikistan’s Gorno-Badakhshan region and the only substantial-sized conurbation in this part of the country. The town is the meeting point of the Pamir Highway and the road south to Afghanistan and, consequently, it’s the only place on your drive where you’re likely to encounter another tourist. Of particular interest in Khorog is the first car to cross the Pamir Highway and, even more unusually, a piano carried here over the Pamirs on foot in 1914. You can find the piano in Khorog Museum.

North of Khorog, the Pamir Highway clings to the banks of the Oxus River (now known as the Amu Darya), which is also the border with Afghanistan. Not only is Afghanistan an enticing (though inaccessible) stone’s throw away, but it is also here that the road is most likely to vaporise: the river simply rises and swallows it down. Drivers need to keep their wits about them, but passengers

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can enjoy staring down at the rushing water below, or staring across at the Afghan villages and goat paths cleft into vertical rock faces and wondering how they survive.

At Qal’ai Khumb the road splits, with the true Pamir Highway heading north and a newer, better-maintained road going south. Both roads meet again at Dushanbe, and only the latter stays open during the winter months. As on the drive to Murgab, there are scarcely any other vehicles on the road, save for the occasional earth mover parked up waiting to clear the inevitable rock falls that block the road. Even in the summer months you can expect to drive through streams and along the riverbed: Nature makes no allowances for man, and a shovel, tow-rope and at least one spare tire (the locals carry two) will undoubtedly come in handy.

BriNg aLL SParE PartS WitH YoU, aND maKE SUrE YoU KNoW HoW to Fit tHEm. mECHaNiCaL KNoWLEDgE iN tajiKiStaN iS EXCEPtioNaLLY LimitED.

left and right: The Pamir Highway is one of the world’s most spectacular drives.Below: The road through Tavildara is frequently washed away in spring, leaving motorists to take their chances in the riverbed.

The Pamir Highway carries on west through the Fann Mountains but, unless you are heading into Uzbekistan, it makes sense to stop in Dushanbe. Tajikistan’s capital is a surprisingly green city, and its Soviet-era buildings are rather less grey than those elsewhere in Central Asia. If, as is likely to be the case, your car is now wheezing, clanking or missing bits after all the exertion, Dushanbe has a few experienced mechanics and the odd garage. If your car has inconsiderately broken down before you got this far, you’ll have learnt that this is a novelty in Tajikistan!

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Climbing in Kyrgyzstan More than 90 percent of the tiny Central Asian republic of Kyrgyzstan is mountainous and, whether you prefer to view it from horseback or hanging off the edge of a giant rock, there are few places on earth with more unspoilt beauty. Snow-capped peaks spread into the distance, interspersed only with an occasional glacier or jade-green pasture.

The Ala Archa National Park is a short drive south from the Kyrgyz capital, Bishkek, and it takes its name from the bright-coloured juniper prevalent in the area. The park covers 200 square kilometres and encompasses some 50 peaks, providing ample entertainment for even the most determined climber. The three peaks in the park are particularly notable, though significantly smaller than those further south in Kyrgyzstan. They are Peak Semenova Tian-Shanski (4,895 metres), the highest peak in the Ala-tau range; Korona (4,860 metres); and Free Korea (4,740 metres).

Named in honour of Pyotr Semyonov-Tyan-Shansky, the 19th-century geographer and head for 40 years of the Russian Geographical Society, Peak Semenova Tian-Shanski may not be especially high, but it requires technical proficiency and, as

with everything in the mountains, good weather. Your fellow mountaineers are as likely to be here on scientific expeditions as for pleasure (the area is, for some reason, popular with NMR spectroscopers from Novosibirsk), but is it also the training ground for world cup ice climbing champions and the Russian national mountaineering team.

Rated as a 5B climb according to the Russian grading system, the Nikiforenko route is probably the most popular course to the peak. The thirteen-hour climb to the summit, which requires a departure time of 5am, encompasses both rock and ice under foot and demands a high level of stamina. The upper approach is steep but has strong footholds, and the view from the top certainly makes the climb worthwhile.

There are more than 20 known routes up Free Korea (Svobodnaya Korea in Russian), and the most interesting are up the left-hand side of the north face. It is possible to climb the 1,070 metres to the top unaided, but it takes even the most experienced speed climbers a day and a night. It is recommended, therefore, to allow at least two days for the ascent, and take bivouac gear to enable a night on the mountain. agP

tHErE iS No FormaL moUNtaiN rESCUE iN KYrgYzStaN. CLimBErS SHoULD tHErEForE CarrY a gPS aND SatELLitE PHoNE at aLL timES.

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✓ESSENTIALS

KAZAKHSTAN

CHINA

UZBEKISTAN

TURKMENISTAN

INDIAPAKISTAN

A R A LS E A

BISHKEK

AlmatyA la A rchaNa t i ona l Pa r k

AFGHANISTAN

Ch imbu lak

TASHKENT

KABUL

Osh

Mazar-eSharif

DUSHANBEPami r

Moun ta i ns

Pam i rH i ghway

WakhanCo r r i do r

T i a n S h a n

TAJIKISTAN

KYRGYZSTAN

hoW To geT There: Almaty is the regional hub for flights, and it is well served

by international airlines. Air Astana (airastana.com), Kazakhstan’s reliable national carrier, flies direct to Abu Dhabi, Beijing, Delhi, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Seoul, whilst other airlines connect to Almaty via Abu Dhabi, Moscow and Istanbul. Bishkek and Dushanbe receive a more limited number of international flights but are also served by regional airlines and their respective national carriers. Visitors to the Wakhan Corridor are advised to fly to Dushanbe rather than Kabul due to security reasons. Travel between major cities in Central Asia is possible using the Russian-built railway system and inter-city bus and minibus services. Reaching smaller towns requires use of a private vehicle, and you’ll get to the back of beyond on foot.

When To go: Central Asia experiences extreme weather shifts from one season to

the next, so planning the timing of your trip is essential. Whilst snow is a necessity for heli-skiing, trekking, climbing and overlanding require somewhat warmer weather. Glacial melt waters in the late spring typically cause flooding and avalanches, so if you are heading to mountainous regions plan your trip between June and September when temperatures are pleasant, roads and mountain passes accessible, and fresh fruits and other crops are plentiful.

Where To STAy: Central Asia has accommodation to suit every budget, but

only in certain areas. Major cities can supply the usual range of upmarket hotels; try the Hyatt in Bishkek or Dushanbe (hyatt.com) or the Intercontinental in Almaty (intercontinental.com).There is is also a reasonable selection of mid-range, Soviet-era hotels that won’t break the bank. Out of town, the best accommodation options are small guesthouses and homestays, where families will host you in anything from an apartment block to a traditional yurt. Although lacking the facilities of a hotel, this is a fascinating way to experience local culture and taste home-cooked food. Community Based Tourism (cbtkyrgyzstan.kg) can arrange homestay bookings in Kyrgyzstan, and Ghyasi at Wakhan Tourism ([email protected]) is able to provide details of guesthouses in the Wakhan Corridor.

WhAT To eAT: Central Asian cuisine focuses primarily on meat and dairy

products due to the region’s nomadic heritage: this is no place to be a vegan. Popular dishes include shashlik (chicken or mutton kebabs, with cubes of fat as well as meat), plov (mutton and fat on rice) and shorpa (mutton and fat soup). You get the picture. In season you may also be treated to cherries, apricots and pomegranates, which make a delightful change from meat. With the exception of Afghanistan, alcohol is widely available across Central Asia. Vodka goes down like water, and regional specialities include kvas (fermented bread drink) and kumys (fermented horse milk). Fortunately, bottled water and soft drinks are also widely available.

above: A mountaineer walks along the South Inylchek glacier in the central Tian Shan mountain range. left: A climber scales a rock face in the Pamir-Alay Mountains.Below: Herding remains central to nomadic life in Kyrgyzstan.

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YOUR gUIDE TOCENTRAL ASIA

THE BIG PICTURE

Cities: Astana (capital), Almaty, Shymkent, Taraz, Aktau, Atyrau languages: Kazakh, RussianTime zone: UTC+5/6dialling code: +7Power: 220–240 V Euro round 2-pin, French/ German Schuko 3-pin Climate: The four distinct seasons make visiting a var-ied experience depending on time of year and loca-tion, with most travelling between late April (spring) and late October (autumn).

Springtime temperatures in the south reach about 18°C, while summer tempera-tures can reach well into the 30s Celsius. Autumn can be rainy and misty in the mountainous areas but still be quite hot in the desert areas. Money: Kazakhstani tenge (KZT). As at September 2012, €1 = KZT184 and USD1 = KZT149 airline: airastana.com (flag), eaa.kz, deta.kz Info: visitkazakhstan.kz/en, astana.kz/en

Kazakhstan page 38

Uzbekistan page 40 Kyrgyzstan

page 39

Tajikistan page 39

Uralsk

KostanaiKokshetau

SemeyKaraganda

Zhezkazgan

Kyzylorda

Almaty

Petropavlosk

Atyrau

DUSHANBE

BISHKEK

ASTANA

TASHKENT

ASHGABAT

Turkmenabat

CASPIAN SEA

TurkmenbashiTurkmenistan page 40

ARAL SEA

EssENtIaLsKazakhstan

What to do: • Ustyurt Plateau: A

stony desert of around 200,000 square kilometres, Ustyurt is an otherworldly realm of breathtaking rock formations and awesome canyons tucked into the southwestern corner of Kazakhstan. Vultures and eagles circle overhead and – far more surprisingly – wild horses roam its rugged terrain. Join an experienced adventure tour and overnight in a tent. • Astana: Taking Almaty’s place as the capital and seat of government in 1997, Astana has been rapidly developed into an ultramodern city complete with gleaming futuristic buildings like a giant transparent tent (Khan Shatyr) and an enormous glass pyramid (Palace of Peace and Reconciliation). The largest

mosque in Central Asia, Nur-Astana Mosque, is also found here. ★ Almaty: In every way the nation’s capital (except on paper, the way it apparently matters to President Nursultan Nazarbayev), Almaty is a prosperous, cosmopolitan city of 1.3 million that has echoes of Europe in its lovely parks, fine museums, excellent shopping and wonderful selection of places to eat and drink. Chimbulak ski resort is nearby, as is Big Almaty Lake, a beautiful spot surrounded by excellent hiking trails. • Aral Sea: Straddling Kazakhstan and Karakalpakstan (an autonomous republic of Uzbekistan), the Aral Sea was the world’s fourth largest lake 50 years ago, but has steadily

dried up as irrigation projects diverted the rivers that once fed it – a man-made environmental tragedy almost without parallel. What’s left of the area – a desert wasteland of rusting, abandoned ships – has spawned the country’s prime hotspot for so-called “disaster tourism”.

What to eat: • Beshbarmak: Meaning

“five fingers” (referring to the tools you’ll need to eat it), this Kazakh national dish comprises boiled horse or mutton and is usually accompanied by shorpo, mutton broth served in traditional bowls.• Sujuk: These tasty horsemeat sausages are well spiced and dried for several weeks before consuming.

• Kuyrdak: Another contender for national dish, kuyrdak utilises the kidneys, heart, liver and other innards of a cow, sheep or horse – cooked together with onions and peppers and served in soup form with bread.• Manti: These very popular spicy morsels are the Kazakh (and Central Asian) answer to dumplings – typically served with a dollop of sour cream or garlic sauce.

Where to stay: • Rixos President Astana,

Astana, rixos.com• The InterContinental, Almaty, intercontinental.com• Radisson Hotel, Astana, radissonblu.com/hotel-astana • Worldhotel Saltanat, Almaty, worldhotelsaltanat.com

Festivals: • Nowruz (Persian

New Year), March 21, annually, nationwide • Kurban (end of Islamic fasting month), currently August, nationwide• Russian Orthodox Easter, March/April, nationwide• 8th Eurasia Film Festival, Almaty, September 17–22, 2012, eurasiaiff.kz

MuseuMs: • Central State Museum,

Almaty, csmrk.kz • A. Kasteev Museum of Arts, Almaty, gmirk.kz• The Museum of Modern Arts, Astana, msi-astana.kz (in Russian/Kazakh)• Presidential Cultural Center, Astana, Tel: +7-172-22-3300


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What to do: • Jeti-Ögüz Rocks:

A well-known landmark that is the subject of songs, paintings and various local legends, Jeti-Ögüz is a unique geological formation that resembles seven angry red bulls. A favourite among hikers, the region, located at an altitude of 2,200 metres in the country’s extreme east, is known for its fresh mountain air and excellent views. ★ Issyk Kul: The planet’s second largest saline lake is surrounded by the snow-capped peaks of the Tian Shan, earning it the name “hot lake” in Kyrgyz because the salt prevents it from freezing. Head to one of the country’s undisputed beauty spots for the lovely views, healing waters and decent beaches. • Osh: A venerable city that was once one of the major trading towns on the Silk Road, Osh retains much of its exotic history in its massive bazaar in the city’s north. Haggle your way to a few bargain souvenirs before paying a visit to a few remnants of Soviet influence (including a rare statue of Lenin). Plan an excursion to the nearby UNESCO World

Heritage Sulaiman-Too Sacred Mountain, with its numerous ancient places of worship and caves with petroglyphs.• Altyn Arashan: Near the eastern city of Karakol and Issyk Kul lake, Altyn Arashan (“Golden Spa”) is a picturesque valley that’s home to a number of basic hot-spring developments – as well as a handful of bears and snow leopards. Permits are required to hike in the area, but the excellent trekking routes and spa rewards afterwards make the trouble worthwhile.

What to eat: • Shashlik: A classic

street snack, these barbecued chunks of marinated mutton are delicious and hopelessly sinful. • Uzgen Paloo: Made with rice from the southern Uzgen District, this is the Kyrgyz version of pilaf, a spicy rice dish containing meat and vegetables that is Central Asia’s answer to biryani. • Kymyz: The signature drink of the Central Asian nomadic culture, this fermented mare’s milk is so popular it’s bottled and sold in shops.

• Laghman: With roots in Chinese and Korean kitchens, these thick handmade noodles are served along with chunks of beef, onions, peppers and potatoes in a spicy and sour broth.

Where to stay: • Hyatt Regency, Bishkek,

bishkek.regency.hyatt.com • Golden Dragon Hotel, Bishkek, gdhotel.kg/en• Maryotel, Bishkek, maryotel.kg • Hotel Amir, Karakol, hotelamir.kg

Festivals: • Kyrgyz Kochu Festival,

Song Kul lakeshore, August, cbtkyrgyzstan.kg• Birds of Prey Festival, Issyk Kul lakeshore, Bel-Tam seaside, August, cbtkyrgyzstan.kg• Nowruz (Persian New Year), March 21, annually, nationwide

MuseuMs: • National Historical

Museum, Bishkek, Tel: +996-312-62-60-89 • The Museum of Fine Arts, Bishkek, Tel: +996-312-66-15-44 • Frunze Museum, Bishkek, Tel: +996-312-66-06-04

What to do: ★ Pamirs: Negotiated via

the famous Pamir Highway linking Mazar-e-Sharif in Afghanistan to Osh in Kyrgyzstan, the Pamir Mountains contain many of the highest peaks on Earth and are nothing if not deserving of the popular moniker “Roof of the World”. Take this mother of all (largely unpaved) road trips and enjoy the mind-blowing scenery and wonderful homestays along the way. Not for the faint-hearted. • Wakhan: An east-west “corridor” linking Afghanistan and China – and separating Pakistan in the south and Tajikistan in the north – the Wakhan is remote, rugged, punishing terrain, but also one of the planet’s most breathtaking spots. Employ the services of an experienced adventure travel company to get the most out of a visit here. • Fann Mountains: Located in Tajikistan’s northernmost Sughd Province, the Fann Mountains boast a hundred peaks, some of which rise to altitudes above 5,000 metres. Trekkers have a huge number of idyllic lakes to choose from, with the beautiful Iskanderkul topping the list.• Dushanbe: A pleasant stay for a couple of days, the Tajik capital has its fair share of fine neoclassical buildings, venerable hotels, and sprawling bazaars. Take a stroll along Rudaki Avenue, a wide, tree-lined avenue in the city centre that leads to the beautiful Rudaki

Park; drop in to the interesting National Museum of Antiquities; and try and catch a performance at the classy Ayni Opera and Ballet Theatre.

What to eat: • Qurutob: Considered

one of the country’s national dishes, this vegetarian option consists of thin flaky flatbread, yogurt, tomatoes and fried onions.• Non: The flatbread that accompanies just about every Tajik meal is as essential as the hot tea that washes it down.• Belyash: Borrowed from Russia, these deep-fried parcels are made of yeasty dough and

are typically filled with ground mutton or fish.• Qurut: Made from drained sour milk or yogurt, qurut is essentially cheese in snack form; it is shaped into balls, strips or chunks and often sold as street food.

Where to stay: • Hyatt Regency,

Dushanbe, dushanbe.regency.hyatt.com • Hotel Mercury, Dushanbe, hotel-mercury.tj• Serena Hotel, Dushanbe, serenahotels.com/serenadushanbe• Taj Palace Hotel, Dushanbe, taj-palace.tj

Festivals: • Kurban (end of Islamic

fasting month), currently August, nationwide• Nowruz (Persian New Year), March 21, annually, nationwide

MuseuMs: • Museum of National

Antiquities, Dushanbe, afc.ryukoku.ac.jp/tj• Bekhzod National Museum, Dushanbe• Museum of Musical Instruments, Dushanbe

sports: • Silk Road Race, Milan

(Italy)–Dushanbe, July/August 2013, silkroadrace.com

EssENtIaLsKyrgyzstan

EssENtIaLsTajikistan

Cities: Bishkek (capital), Osh, Dzhalal Abad, Karakol, Tokmok languages: Kyrgyz, RussianTime zone: UTC+5/6dialling code: +996Power: 220–240 V Euro round 2-pin, French/German Schuko 3-pinClimate: The effects of the continental climate depend on elevation. Lowland areas drop a little below freezing in winter and can reach

up to 30–35°C in summer. Wintertime temperatures in the highland areas go as low as –20°C with year-round snow on the peaks. The best time to visit is generally July to September.Money: Kyrgyzstani som (KGS). As at September 2012, €1 = KGS58 and USD1 = KGS47airlines: airbishkek.kg/enInfo: kyrgyzstantravel.info (unofficial)

Cities: Dushanbe (capital), Khujand, Kulob, Qurghonteppalanguages: Tajik, RussianTime zone: UTC+5dialling code: +992Power: 220–240 V Euro round 2-pin, French/German Schuko 3-pinClimate: With Central Asia’s highest mountains, the Pamirs, occupying half the country, winter (November–February) is not the time to visit for most; Nature lovers should plan to go in summer (June–September), though temperatures in the lowlands at this time can be extremely hot (above 40°C). Spring (March–April) and autumn (September–October) are the best times of year to visit.Money: Tajikistani somoni (TJS). As at September 2012, €1 = TJS5.88 and USD1 = TJS4.76airlines: tajikair.tj/en (national)Info: tajiktourism.com (unofficial)


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What to do: • Yangykala Canyon:

Central Asia’s answer to the Grand Canyon is the most spectacular and most remote part of Turkmenistan. Camel and 4WD treks in the area take in some truly wonderful scenery, and camping out in the open here is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Professional tour guides will come in handy to deal with the assortment of

hardy critters sharing this natural wonder – spiders, lizards, scorpions and the odd cobra. ★ Ashgabat: Rebuilt after a devastating 1948 earthquake, Ashgabat, or “City of Love”, is a labour of love of former president and self-titled Turkmenbashi (“Leader of Turkmens”) Saparmurat Niyazov. Check out the gold statues of the expired dictator and his shiny marble palaces as well as

the controversial Kipchak Mosque – its walls adorned with Qur’anic verse alongside Niyazov’s own writings. • Konye-Urgench: Located just south of the border with Uzbekistan, Konye-Urgench is the site of the ancient town of Urgench containing the ruined mosques, libraries and minarets of the 12th-century capital of Khorezm. The UNESCO World Heritage site is home to the elaborate Törebeg Hanym Mausoleum and the impressive 60-metre Gutluk-Temir Minaret, once the tallest of its kind.• Tolkuchka Bazaar: The largest open-air market in Central Asia, sprawled across the desert suburbs of the capital, is a feast for the senses – and the place to lay your hands on a coveted Turkmen carpet. Make sure you know how to distinguish a fine handmade Turkmen tribal rug from the mass-produced ones masquerading as originals.

What to eat: • Melons: Locals take

great pride in the quality of the country’s “national fruit”, even to the extent of celebrating Melon Day (second Sunday in August). Melons can be found in markets from the start of June till the end of October. • Somsa: Similar to the samosas

of the Indian Subcontinent, these triangular fried pastries are typically stuffed with spiced ground mutton, potatoes, peas, lentils and onions. • Balyk Shara: Marinated pieces of fish threaded onto skewers and roasted on heated coals – a favourite among those living along the shores of the Caspian Sea. • Medovik: Popular in the former Soviet republics, this honey cake comes in various incarnations, most notably layered with sour cream.

Where to stay: • Sofitel Ashgabat

Oguzkent, Ashgabat, sofitel.com• The Grand Turkmen Hotel, Ashgabat, Tel: +993-12-51-05-55• Ak Altyn Hotel, Ashgabat, Tel: +993-12-36-37-07• Hotel Nebitchi, Ashgabat, Tel: +993-22-24-53-65

Festivals: • Nowruz (Persian New

Year), March 21, annually, nationwide• Kurban (end of Islamic fasting month), currently August, nationwide

MuseuMs: • National Museum of

Turkmenistan, Ashgabat, unesco.kz/heritagenet/tm/turkm_muz

• Turkmen Carpet Museum, Ashgabat • Museum of Fine Arts, Ashgabat

Cities: Ashgabat (capital), Turkmenabat, Turkmenbashi, Marylanguages: Turkmen, RussianTime zone: UTC+5dialling code: +993Power: 220–240 V Euro round 2-pin, French/German Schuko 3-pinClimate: Punishingly hot temperatures (50°C) hit the lowlands, including Ashgabat, in summer, so the July–August period should be avoided. Spring and autumn are the best times to visit, though wintertime in the south is tolerable, with temperatures rarely dropping below freezing. The climate is generally very dry, but the occasional summer thunderstorm brings heavy bursts of rain.Money: Turkmenistani manat (TMT). As at September 2012, €1 = TMT3.52 and USD1 = TMT2.85airlines: turkmenairlines.com (flag)Info: turkmenistanembassy.org

Cities: Tashkent (capital), Samarkand, Namangan, Bukhara, Termezlanguages: Uzbek, Karakalpak, RussianTime zone: UTC+5dialling code: +998Power: 220–240 V Euro round 2-pin, French/German Schuko 3-pinClimate: Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are the best times to go, when daytime temperatures are mild and nights don’t drop below freezing for most of the country. Mid-July through August is the hottest period, when temperatures are well into the 40s Celsius in lowland areas; highland trekking is best at this time of year. In Tashkent, winter temperatures (December–February) hover around freezing.Money: Uzbekistani som (UZS). As at September 2012, €1 = UZS2,395 and USD1 = UZS1,940airlines: uzairways.com (national)Info: uzbektourism.uz/en

What to do: ★ Samarkand: Capital of

Timur’s empire (and the site of his mausoleum), UNESCO World Heritage listed Samarkand is one of Central Asia’s finest historical cities. The menu of architectural jewels begins with the three majestic madrasahs of the Registan, the Bibi-Khanym mosque and the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis.• Ugam-Chatkal National Park: About 80 kilometres outside Tashkent is one of Uzbekistan’s oldest nature reserves, a habitat with several dozen species of mammals, over 200 species of birds, and more than 1,100 plant species. A paradise for trekkers, the park encompasses impressive canyons, gorges, river valleys and mountain lakes.• Bukhara: Samarkand’s only serious competition, Bukhara is another of the great trading cities and historic centres of learning on the Silk Road. The centre of the city is accordingly crammed with impressive buildings, most notably the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, the Kalon Minaret, the Ark (a massive fortress) and several ancient madrasahs.• Ayaz Qala: Three mud-brick fortresses dating back as far as the first century AD, the

Ayaz Qala monuments are well worth a visit if you’re planning to experience life in the Uzbek desert. Located in the Ellikqala region of Karakalpakstan (the northwestern end of the country), these ancient ruins are next door to the wonderful Ayaz yurt camp, complete with solar panels and Western-style toilets.

What to eat: • Chuchvara: These small

Uzbek-style dumplings are filled with mutton, chopped onions and herbs, and are boiled rather than fried. • Naryn: Fresh handmade noodles form the centrepiece of this tasty salad, which is typically topped with thinly sliced spicy horsemeat sausage.• Kiftalik Mosh Ugra: Hearty soups are a popular choice in Uzbekistan and this variation with mutton meatballs, noodles and mungbeans is a classic.• Chak Chak: You don’t want to know how this sinful deep-fried honey cake is made; just seek it out and enjoy!

Where to stay: • InterContinental

Tashkent, ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental• Tashkent Palace Hotel, Tashkent, tashkent-palace.com

• Amulet Hotel, Bukhara, amulet-hotel.com • Jahongir Bed and Breakfast, Samarkand, jahongirbandb.com

Festivals: • Sharq Taronalari Music

Festival, Samarkand, August 2013 (biennially), en.sharqtaronalari.uz• Nowruz (Persian New Year), March 21, annually, nationwide • Kurban (end of Islamic fasting month), currently August, nationwide

• Boysun Bahori, Surkhandarya, May

MuseuMs: • State Art Museum of

Arts, Tashkent, fineartmuzeum.uz/en • Museum of Astronomy, Ulugh Beg Astronomical Institute, Tashkent, astrin.uz• Karakalpakstan State Museum of Art, Nukus, savitskycollection.org• Museum of Applied Art, Tashkent, artmuseum.uz/en

EssENtIaLsTurkmenistan

EssENtIaLsUzbekistan


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VISA INDEX

destination:

KazaKhstan

Requirements and Exemptions● No visa is required for citizens of Azerbaijan, Kyrgyzstan, Belarus, Russia, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan visiting Kazakhstan. No visa is required for citizens of Armenia, Georgia, Mongolia, Moldova and Ukraine visiting Kazakhstan for a period of up to 90 days. For Turkish and Malaysian nationals, no visa is required for visits up to 30 days. For Thai nationals, no visa is required for visits up to 15 days.● Other nationals require a visa issued by a Kazakh diplomatic mission or consulate.● For more information, visit mfa.kz/en.

Applications● Original passport with a validity of more than 3 months, plus a copy of the information page of the passport.● Filled-in visa application form, attached with one recent passport-sized colour photograph. ● Payment of visa fee (US$30 for single entry).

Embassies and ConsulatesChinaEmbassy of Kazakhstan to China9 Dong 6 Jie, San Li Tun, Beijing 100600, ChinaTel: +86-10-653-26-182/653-24-189kazembchina.org

indiaEmbassy of Kazakhstan to India61, Poorvi Marg, Vasant

Vihar, New Delhi 110057, IndiaTel: +91-11-460-07-710kazembassy.in

israelEmbassy of Kazakhstan to Israel52a, Hayarkon Street, Tel Aviv 63432, IsraelTel: +972-3-516-3411/3464/3619kazakhemb.org.il

JapanEmbassy of Kazakhstan to Japan1-8-14 Azabudai, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0041, JapanTel: +81-3-358-91-821embkazjp.org

MalaysiaEmbassy of Kazakhstan to Malaysia

Kazakhstan | Kyrgyzstan | Tajikistan | Turkmenistan | Uzbekistan

115, Jalan Ampang Hilir, 55000 Kuala Lumpur, MalaysiaTel: +603-4251-0728kazembassy.org.my

pakistanEmbassy of Kazakhstan to PakistanHouse No. 11, Street No. 45, F-8/1, Islamabad 44000, PakistanTel: +92-51-226-2926kazembpakistan.com

russiaEmbassy of Kazakhstan to Russia3a, Chistoprudnii bulvar, Moscow 101000, RussiaTel: +7-495-608-40-80kazembassy.ru

singaporeEmbassy (Singapore, Australia and New Zealand)1 Kim Seng Promenade #09-04/05, Great World City, East Office Tower, Singapore 237994Tel: +65-6235-7150kazakhstan.org.sg

south KoreaEmbassy of Kazakhstan to South Korea271-5, Hannam-Dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul, Republic of KoreaTel: +822-379-97-14/394-97-16,kazembassy.org

thailandEmbassy of Kazakhstan to ThailandOffice 804A, Floor 8, Building A, GPF Witthayu Towers, 93/1 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330, ThailandTel: +66-2-254-30-43/45kazembassythailand.org

CENTRALASIA


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Embassies and ConsulatesChinaEmbassy of Tajikistan to ChinaNo. 1–4, Liangmaqiao Diplomatic Compound, Beijing 10060, ChinaTel: +86-10-6532-2598tajikembassychina.com

indiaEmbassy of Tajikistan to IndiaE-13/2, Vasant Vihar, New Delhi 110057, IndiaTel: +91-11-2615-4282tajikembassy.in

JapanEmbassy of Tajikistan to JapanNK bldg., 1-4-43 Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo, JapanTel: +81-3-6804-3661tajikistan.jp

pakistanEmbassy of Tajikistan to PakistanHouse No. 295, Street No. 35, F11/3, Islamabad 44000, PakistanTel: +92-51-229-3462tajikembassy.pk

russiaEmbassy of Tajikistan to Russia13 Granatny Avenue, Moscow 123001, RussiaTel: +7-495-690-38-46tajembassy.ru

uKEmbassy of Tajikistan to the UK and Northern Ireland26–28 Hammersmith Grove, London W6 7BA, UKTel: +44-208-834-1003tajembassy.org.uk

uzbekistanEmbassy of Tajikistan to UzbekistanKahhor A Street 6, Tashkent 700090, UzbekistanTel: +998-712-54-99-66tajikistan.uz

usaEmbassy of Tajikistan to the USA1005 New Hampshire Ave., N.W., Washington D.C. 20037, USATel: +1-202-223-6090tjus.org

destination:

taJiKistan

Requirements and Exemptions● No visa is required for citizens of the following countries (among others) visiting Tajikistan: Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Iran, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Mongolia (90 days), Ukraine (90 days) and Russia.● Other nationals require a visa issued by a Tajik embassy. Visa on arrival at Dushanbe airport is only available for citizens of countries that do not have a Tajik embassy in their home country.● If you would like to travel to the Pamirs region (Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast, GBAO), you must obtain a special permit at the same time as obtaining your travel visa.● For more information, visit mfa.tj.

Applications● Original passport with a validity of more than 6 months, plus a copy of the information page of the passport.● Two filled-in visa application forms, attached with two recent passport-sized colour photographs. ● Payment of visa fee. Generally, a 14-day visa costs about US$40 and a 30-day visa costs about US$50. Additional permits for the GBAO region cost about US$80.

destination:

Kyrgyzstan

Requirements and Exemptions● No visa is required for citizens of the following countries (among others) visiting Kyrgyzstan: Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Japan, Kazakhstan, Moldova, Poland, Russia, Tajikistan, Ukraine and Vietnam.● No visa is required for citizens of the following countries (among others) visiting Kyrgyzstan for up 60 days: Australia, Brunei, Bahrain, Canada, Denmark, France, Germany, Kuwait, New Zealand, Norway, Qatar, Singapore, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, UAE, UK and USA.● Other nationals require a visa issued by a Kyrgyz embassy.● For more information, visit mfa.kg.

ApplicationsVisa on arrival (Manas International Airport only)● Original passport with a validity of more than 6 months.● A fee of US$35 applies.

Visa prior to arrival● Original passport with a validity of more than 6 months.● Completed visa application form.● Visa fees vary from country to country.

Embassies and ConsulatesChinaEmbassy of the Kyrgyz Republic to China2-4-1 Ta Yuan Diplomatic Office Building, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100600, ChinaTel: +86-10-6532-6458

indiaEmbassy of the Kyrgyz Republic to India78 Poorvi Marg, Vasant Vihar, New Delhi 110057, IndiaTel: +91-11-2614-9582kgzembind.in

JapanEmbassy of the Kyrgyz Republic to Japan5-6-16 Shimomeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 153-0064, JapanTel: +81-3-3719-0828kyrgyzembassy.jp

MalaysiaEmbassy of the Kyrgyz Republic to Malaysia

346 Jalan Tun Razak, 10th Floor, Wisma Sin Heap Lee, 50400, Kuala Lumpur, MalaysiaTel: +60-3-2163-2012kgembassymy.com

russiaEmbassy of the Kyrgyz Republic to RussiaHouse 64, Bolshaya Ordinka Street, Moscow 119017, RussiaTel: +7-499-237-48-82kyrgyzembassy.ru

tajikistanEmbassy of the Kyrgyz Republic to TajikistanHouse 56A, Soid-Nosir Street, Dushanbe, TajikistanTel: +992-41-100-00-56kgembassy.tj

turkmenistanEmbassy of the Kyrgyz Republic to TurkmenistanHouse 85, Garashsyzlyk Street, Ashgabat 744036, TurkmenistanTel: +993-12-48-22-95/96kgembassytm.com

south KoreaEmbassy of the Kyrgyz Republic to South KoreaNamsong bldg., 260-199 Itaewon-dong, Yougsan-gu, Seoul, Republic of KoreaTel: +82-2-379-0951/0952kyrgyzembkorea.com

united KingdomEmbassy of the Kyrgyz Republic to the UK and Northern IrelandAscot House, 119 Crawford Street, London W1U 6BJ, UKTel: +44-207-935-1462kyrgyz-embassy.org.uk

uzbekistanEmbassy of the Kyrgyz Republic to UzbekistanHouse 30, H. Samatovoi Street, Tashkent 700000, UzbekistanTel: +998-71-237-47-94


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VISA INDEX

Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan (up to 60 days), Moldova, Russia and Ukraine. ● Other nationals can obtain a 30-day visa issued by an Uzbek embassy or consulate. ● For more information, visit mfa.uz/eng.

Applications ● Original passport with a validity of more than 3 months. ● Two filled-in visa application forms, attached with two recent passport-sized colour photographs. ● Payment of visa fee.

Once you receive your LOI, you can approach a Turkmen embassy to obtain your visa. ● The travel agency arranges for an accredited tour guide to meet you at the border and accompany you for the duration of your stay in Turkmenistan. ● For more information, visit turkmenistanembassy.org.

Applications ● Original passport with a validity of more than 6 months, plus a copy of the information page of the passport. ● Two filled-in visa application forms, attached with two recent passport-sized colour photographs. ● Payment of visa fee.

Embassies and Consulates China Embassy of Turkmenistan to China H-5/H-3, King’s Garden

Embassies and ConsulatesChinaUzbekistan Embassy to China11 Sanlitun Beixiao Jie, Beijing 100600, ChinaTel: +86-10-6532-6305embassy-uz.cn

FranceUzbekistan Embassy to France22, rue d’Aguesseau, 75008, Paris, FranceTel: +33-1-5330-0353ouzbekistan.fr

germanyUzbekistan Embassy to GermanyPerleberger Str. 62, 10559 Berlin, GermanyTel: +49-30-394-09-80uzbekistan.de

uKUzbekistan Embassy to Great Britain and

Northern Ireland41 Holland Park, London W11 2RP, UKTel: +44-207-229-7679uzbekembassy.org

indiaUzbekistan Embassy to IndiaPlot No. 40, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 110021, IndiaTel: +91-11-2410-56-40uzbekembassy.in

indonesiaUzbekistan Embassy

to IndonesiaJl. Daksa III, No.14,

Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta Selatan, Jakarta, Indonesia Tel: +62-21-720-09-72

israelUzbekistan Embassy to Israel35 Ha-Nevia Street, Ramat Tsahala, Tel Aviv 69350, IsraelTel: +972-3-644-77-46uzbekistan.org.il

JapanUzbekistan Embassy to Japan5-11-8 Shimomeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

153-0064, JapanTel: +81-3-376-05625

MalaysiaUzbekistan Embassy to Malaysia2nd Floor, Wisma Chinese Chamber, 258 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur 50450, MalaysiaTel: +603-4253-3406

south KoreaUzbekistan Embassy to South KoreaRoom 701, Diplomatic Center, 1376-1 Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-ku, Seoul, Republic of Korea Tel: +822-574-65-54

singaporeUzbekistan Embassy to Singapore#04-01/02 United House, 20 Kramat Lane, Singapore 228773Tel: +65-6734-3942

usaUzbekistan Embassy to the USA1746 Massachusetts Ave., N.W., Washington D.C. 20036, USATel: +1-202-887-5300uzbekistan.org

destination:

uzbeKistan

Requirements and Exemptions ● No visa is required for citizens of the following countries visiting Uzbekistan: Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus,

destination:

turKMenistan

Villas, 18 Xiaoyun Road, Beijing 100016, China

Tel: +86-10-6532-6975turkmenembassy.cn

indiaEmbassy of Turkmenistan to IndiaC-11, West End Colony, New Delhi 110021, IndiaTel: +91-11-2411-6527turkmenembassy.in

russiaEmbassy of Turkmenistan to Russia22 Filippovskiy Street, 121019 Moscow, RussiaTel: +7-95-291-6591turkmenembassy.ru

Requirements and Exemptions ● Visas can only be obtained through a travel agency licensed by the Turkmen Government. Only these agencies can issue you the required letter of invitation (LOI) needed to acquire a visa. Processing of the LOI (which lists the places in Turkmenistan you plan to visit) typically takes about a month.

uKEmbassy of Turkmenistan to the UK131 Holland Park Avenue, London W11 4UT, UKTel: +44-207-610-5239turkmenembassy.org.uk

usaEmbassy of Turkmenistan to the USA2207 Massachusetts Ave., N.W., Washington D.C. 20008, USATel: +1-202-588-1500turkmenistanembassy.org


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ROUNDUP


The Best Airline in Central Asia/India ratings in full: 1. Air Astana, 2. IndiGo Airlines (India), 3. Jet Airways (India), 4. SriLankan Airlines, 5. Kingfisher Airlines (India), 6. SpiceJet (India), 7. JetLite (India), 8. Uzbekistan Airways, 9. Pakistan International, 10. Air India.To learn more, visit worldairlineawards.com.

surveyed by telephone, questionnaires and online about their experiences with airlines on the ground and in the air over a 10 month period. Covering over 200 airlines, the survey measured passenger satisfaction across more than 38 key performance indicators of airline front-line product and service, including check-in, boarding, onboard seat comfort, cabin cleanliness, food, beverages, in-flight entertainment and staff service.

air astana: Central asia’s Best airline

Kazakhstan’s flag carrier Air Astana was named the Best Airline in Central Asia/India at the 2012 World Airline Awards held at the UK’s Farnborough Air Show in July. During the ceremony, CEO of Skytrax Edward Plaisted presented the World Airline Award to Peter Foster, President of Air Astana.

Air Astana, a joint venture between Kazakhstan’s national wealth fund Samruk Kazyna and British aerospace company BAE Systems, currently operates a fleet of 26 aircraft comprising two Boeing 767-300, five Boeing 757-200, ten Airbus A321/A320/A319, six Embraer E-190 and three Fokker 50. The airline serves 22 domestic and 36 international destinations. Air Astana is a full member of the International Air Transport Association (IATA) and was the first airline in Kazakhstan to achieve EASA Part 145 aircraft maintenance certification. In 2011, Air Astana passed its third annual IATA Operational Safety Audit (IOSA), without any findings.

Skytrax’s World Airline Awards are the primary benchmarking tool for passenger satisfaction levels of airlines throughout the world, delivering a unique survey format based on analysis of business and leisure travellers, across all cabin travel types. Air travellers were

Air A

stana

Air Astana continues to expand its network. The most exciting additions are for the Chinese market, with twice-a-week Almaty–Hong Kong and Astana–Beijing direct flights beginning in August 2012. agP

The KEEN Voyageur retails at S$189, while the Voyageur Mid retails at S$209. The KEEN Voyageur series is available at selected World of Outdoors and World of Sports outlets in Singapore. To learn more, visit www.keenfootwear.com.

Embark on a New adventure with KEEN

Keep your cool under pressure with the Voyageur men’s and women’s hiking shoes from KEEN. Mesh lining replaces a waterproof barrier for continual airflow. The rugged outsole with multidirectional lugs finds a sure grip on rough terrain. An ESS shank is built in for torsional stability, ensuring you keep your mind on the task at hand.

If you’re really testing your adventurer’s mettle, KEEN has you covered

with the Voyageur Mid hiking boot, which offers the same cutting-edge technologies as the shoe but with a 6.5-inch

collar height for that crucial extra support.

Both models are equipped with KEEN’s innovative Hybrid.ologies: S3 (Shock, Suspension, Stability) supports the foot on impact, dissipates shock and reduces your odds of twisting an ankle. The Metatomical Footbed Design is the internal support mechanism anatomically engineered to provide excellent arch support and cradle the natural contours of the foot. Plus, Patented Toe Protection means the outsoles wrap up and over the toes for ultimate protection. agP

Voyageur Mid

Voyageur


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Serenity Spanish Bar & Restaurant is located at No. 1 Harbourfront Walk, #01-98/99 VivoCity, Singapore. Operation hours: Sunday–Tuesday 11am–11pm, Wednesday–Thursday 11am–12 midnight, and Friday, Saturday and eve of public holiday 11am to 1pm.To find out more, call +65-6376-8185 or visit www.serenity.com.sg.

¡Bienvenido al Serenity!

Strategically located adjacent to Sentosa Broadwalk and facing Resort World Sentosa, Serenity Spanish Bar & Restaurant is an oasis of cool in Singapore’s bustling VivoCity. Serenity brings you the most authentic Spanish flavours and culture – delicious cuisine, charming ambience and attentive, friendly service.

Some must-tries are the delectable authentic Spanish tapas and soups, Spanish rice (paella) dishes, Spanish noodle (fideuà) dishes, and cochinillo – Spanish style suckling pig. There are more than 42 kinds of tapas on offer, from grilled Spanish octopus, garlic prawns and Spanish cod fish cake to tortillas and honey roasted pork ribs.

The signatures of the restaurant are the sangrias, 24 different concoctions to suit the most sophisticated taste buds. They come in two types: sangria blanca, which uses white wine or cava (Spanish sparkling wine), and the traditional sangria, which is made with red wine. “Spanish Bullfrog”, “Ibiza Fantasy”, “Guantanamera”, “Spanish Coffee” and “Spanish Sling” are just some of the cocktails you should

try. If you prefer your wine as is, Serenity has 120 labels of Spanish wines covering famous wine regions such as Rioja, Rueda, Toro, Rebera del Duero, Rías Baixas and Málaga.

The Columbia Men’s Trail Fire Windbreaker Jacket retails at S$149.90 and is available at Columbia stores (The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands and Velocity @ Novena Square) as well as selected World of Sports and World of Outdoors stores.To learn more, visit www.columbia.com.

Keep Warm but Carry Light with Columbia

Ever wished your windbreaker had just a little more warmth without sacrificing the super lightweight packable airiness that you love? Columbia’s Omni-Heat technology, available in their men’s Trail Fire windbreaker jacket, delivers just that. The silver dot lining works like a space blanket, reflecting and retaining your own body heat so you stay toasty without bulky insulation layers. When you’re getting too warm, heat is allowed to escape through the tiny black spaces between the dots.

In addition to warmth, the Trail Fire employs Omni-Shield technology to repel stains and light drizzles, and has a drawcord adjustable hem so you can lock out the elements. It also features zipclosed pockets, including a handy chest pocket for stashing your valuables. agP

To end your meal on a sugar high, Serenity’s desserts will leave you sweetly intoxicated. And literally so, because the Spanish enjoy their booze so much that they like to infuse some sweet wine, sherry, rum or red wine over their sweets. Salud! agP


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ONE FOR THE ROAD

UzBEKiStaN

POSTCARDfROM

“ I went to Uzbekistan in 2008 to visit a magical place called Samarkand. This historic town is well known for the Registan, the public square that was once its heart. Another major monument in the city is the Shah-i-Zinda compound, which contains a series of mosques, madrasahs and mausoleums. This photograph was taken in the complex, a local woman stealing the limelight from Samarkand’s magnificent architecture. Although the photographic conditions weren’t ideal, the combination of shadows, blue colours and golden light created a satisfying outcome. ” — ALbERT PARERA

In the next issue of PASSPORT, we’re headed to Oceania! That means not just Australia and New Zealand, but also the beautiful islands of the South Pacific. We want to see your best captures from your travels in the region in ONE FOR THE ROAD.

Send your brilliant photos from Oceania to [email protected] and you’ll stand a chance of getting published in the Oceania Collector’s Edition – and winning a Columbia Meridian travel watch (worth S$160), complete with three alarms, countdown timer, 20 lap memory, and a host of other cool features.

CALL

ING ALL TRAVELLERS!

alBerT Parera works in radio and advertising, but photography has always been one of his passions. He started shooting on an Olympus OM-20, a classic SLR film camera that allowed him to teach himself the basics of photography.

BIO

CENTRAL ASIA

SEND US A POSTCARD…

Snapped a fabulous underwater shot in Fiji? Photographed the perfect sun-drenched New Zealand landscape? Captured the Aussie spirit Down Under? If so, we want to hear from you!

AND WIN!

COMPETITION RULES: ➊ Only entries adhering to the Competition Rules will be considered. ➋ Entries must be sent to [email protected] with the subject “Oceania Postcard Competition”, stating the photographer’s full name. ➌ Submitted images must be original and not previously published. ➍ Maximum THREE images per entry and ONE entry per person. Each image must be accompanied by a one-line caption stating where the photograph was taken. ➎ Submitted images must be low-resolution JPG format (maximum 500kB per image). Post-processing is allowed. ➏ The winner will be requested to submit a high-resolution (~10MP) version of their chosen photograph, a short text (~100 words) about their travel experience, a short personal profile (~40 words) and a profile picture. ➐ The winning image will be published in PASSPORT’s Oceania Collector’s Edition, on newsstands November 15, 2012. ➑ The Editor reserves the right to reject any entries that do not adhere to the Competition Rules.


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www.VisitKazakhstan.kz

KAZAKHSTANGateway to Eurasia


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asian geographic passport - 2012 5

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