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Arunachala Śiva Yatra!
Pilgrimage at Tiruvanamalai, Maha Deepam5-13 december 2019
Yogi Maheśvara
Khecari Devi Ashramam – Igreja Corazaõ de Jesus Christo
khecaridevi.com
Digambara Śiva!
Pilgrimage at Tiruvanamalai during the auspicious period of Maha Deepam, when a ghee
fire is lit on top of Arunachala mountain, considered as Śiva himself, fire lingam. A week of
immersion into the Śiväıte tradition of Tamil Nadu, south-east of India. The stay will be
punctuated by pujas of the different temples and ashrams of the city, hatha yoga, time in
nature, devotionnal chanting, and the reception of what will be offered to us. A small
group (maximum 10 devotees), by its practice and devotion, will participate to feed this
”energetical vortex” that is called Arunachala Śiva, who in turn will feed and teach us.
A simple, clean, comfortable (and silent!) accomodation located at the foot of the
mountain. A simple food, varied and adapted to the practice. A family atmosphere of
intense, palpable and contagious devotion...
Trishuladhara Śiva!
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” My children; the coolness of the breeze, the rays of the moon, the immensity of space, and
all things in the world are imbued with Divine Consciousness. To know and experience this
truth is the goal of every human birth.”
Sri Amritanandamayi Devi
”Pilgrimage is one of the many ways to develop one’s self positive qualities. It makes a lot
more sense than a simple touristic trip.”
Lama Teunsang
”When one starts in an atmosphere of confidence and devotion, accompanied by an inner
joy, one develops the patience and the tolerance to get through the difficulties that might
arise on the way. It is the level of belief that determines the importance that the person will
attribute to the pilgrimage, as well as the strength it will derive from it. It is a fact that
every person who goes to these places expends a great calm, a feeling of intense joy. Why?
Because these are special places, where wise men filled with love and compassion have
reached enlightenment. It’s not nothing.”
Lama Karta
”The rare privilege represented by a human body has been given to you for the sole purpose
of following a discipline to achieve your Divinity.
You have drawn this body to the material plane so that you can do what you have to do,
that is, evolve spiritually.
The effort to awaken to one’s true nature is the duty of any human being.”
Sri Anandamayi Ma
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The place Arunachala mnountain is, since ages, considered as one of the most holy place
in India. The mountain is considered as the fire lingam. Its altitude is 865 meters, its base
circumference of 14 kilometers and it is traditionally traveled barefoot, as a sign of veneration
and on appeal to the Divine Grace.
This place is just magic and highly propitious to spiritual experiences and to the trans-
mission of teachings!
I invite you to read the article I wrote on Arunachala and which describes this place1,
as well as certain experiences that invited themselves during a pilgrimage I had in 2017 with
my family.
Program We will spend the week at the feet of the holy mountain and won’t use any
public transportation, expect the ”tuk-tuk” if convenient and relevant. Everything will be
at walking distance and we will do it quietly and peacefully.
I detail here the program of the week. If a fairly square storyline is proposed, a significant
part is left to improvise so that the precious ”unexpected” can invite and express itself in a
timely and relevant manner. This is how the timetable is adjusted ”in real time” and most
spontaneously and naturally possible.
• morning Puja: The big temple and the different ashrams of Tiruvanamalai proposemorning pujas (celebration rituals), generally around 4/5 h AM. We will participate to
a morning puja one day in two. Afternoon puja are also given and we might participate
also.
• Hatha Yoga. This is not a yoga retreat but a pilgrimage. Howerver, hatha yoga is aprecious tool in order to prepare body, mind, spirit to spiritual experience. We will
practice about 5 hours a day, generally in the morning or/and evening to avoid hot
hours, on the covered roof top terrace of the hotel designed for that. These practices
will have little focus on posture, just a bit in order to take care and cherish the vehicle
to help him to stay in the seating posture without disturbance. We will practice
pranayama (breathing techniques), dharana (concentration) and meditation. These
sessions will aim to raise our internal vibration so to stir our devotion and our sensitivity
to the vibration of the place and put us ”in tunes”.
• Bhakti Yoga: we are at the heart of the subject! A pilgrimage is a devotional practice.
1http://khecaridevi.com/arunachala-siva-the-trishula-sadhana/
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An important place will be made to devotional songs. We will follow the one proposed
at the ashrams (in particular those of Ramana Maharsi’s ashram2). We will practice
devotional singing together, especially accompanied with harmonium, drums, maracas,
and other instruments that you might bring with you!
Considering Arunachala as a Śiva lingam, we will chant daily and without moderation
(most likely more than 108 times!) the lingastakam, the eight verses to the glory of
the lingam3.
• Nature ride. Tiruvanamalai is close to nature; it is easily accessible by walk. We willwalk in the mountain to the caves where Ramana has meditated several years. There
is also a lake for ballads.
• Yogic experience sharing. Some time will be dedicated to yogic experience sharing,for example khecari mudra, and other experiences detailed in my texts. Beyond the
transmission aspect, these sharings allow us to illustrate, from a yogic point of view,
some functioning of the human body (in a broad sense) and the practices proposed.
• pratice time. About 5 hours of hatha yoga, visit to ashrams/temple, devotionnalsongs... The daily practice time is not fully defined and will be adjusted in real time.
It will be proposed about 10 hours of practice per day. In fact, the border between
”practice time on the carpet” and the rest of the day will naturally fade away; the idea
is that this week is a uninterrupted practice, from morning until evening, maybe even
at night in our sleep!
If the program is too loaded for some, it is possible to not participate to everything,
take time for oneself, no obligation of results!
• Free time. The idea is a one week immersion, and we will take care of the dynamicof the group which is important for the experience we will live together. That said, it
is sometimes necessary to take time for oneself, to isolate for a moment, which will of
course be possible at any time, according to one’s needs. In particular, the program of
the end of the afternoon and the evening meal will be at the discretion of oneself.
There are many restaurants in Tiruvanamalai, ranging from Indian canteen very spicy
where you can eat for less than one euro, up to restaurants more adapted to our western
stomachs (from 4/5 euros the meal). We will have a small and simple kitchen at the
hotel.
2https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H75T3ScIhR4
3See the following videos where I lead the lingastakam: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrf-
RrHUJMI & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v= mru1WWJNWA&t=24s
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Giri Valam during Maha Deepam! Since Arunachala mountain is believed to be Śiva
himself, devotees turn around the mountain, in particular once a month during full moon.
It is called girivalam: giri means mountain and valam turning around. The walk is around
14 km. This spiritual practice is at its maximum during Maha Deepam. The full moon night
is lit a giant fire on top of the mountain, and during the next 9 nights, huge quantities of
ghee are burnt to keep that fire alive. This year, the fire will be lit on december 10th. The
number of pilgrims is valued to several millions. Two or three millions of devotees come to
walk around the mountain during 48 hrs. Such a huge number can be scary (I am personnally
not fond of crowds), but in such an ambience of celebration it is different. The atmosphere
is familial and the devotion is intense, palpable and contagious.
Western pilgrims are rare and Indian pilgrims are generally happy to share this event
with Westerners sensitive to their culture.
Yogi Maheśvara Heir to a timeless and immortal tradition, receiving the initiations of
different lineages, I embody certain yogic teachings. It is a blessing for me to accompany
you at the feet of this holy mountain.
I live in the world, am a family father and an academic researcher in astrophysics (cos-
mology, galaxy clusters formation and evolution at Laboratoire d’Astrophysique de Marseille,
France).
The teachings that I embody are sometimes little known because covered with secrecy
and of esotericism, such as khecari mudra, an essential practice of hatha yoga on which I
wrote a booklet describing part of my experience4 of the Divine mudra. The story of this
experience is illustrated by passages of texts translated from Sanskrit (10/15th century),
which show that this technique is well documented, although little known at present in its
advanced form.
Indeed, what I am able to transmit is in no way something original: everything is already
contained in the traditional texts and in the word of the masters. I do not invent anything
new and I express gratitude and devotion to the source of these teachings, which is simply
Divine. The ”added value” I bring is: (i) to express these teachings with a contemporary
Western culture and vocabulary; (ii) to embody, to give life to these teachings by practicing
them.
4This work has been translated in english and is freely available:http://khecaridevi.com/khecari-mudra-
when-the-divine-goddess-takes-off-in-inner-space/ Other papers are available in french, being currently trans-
lated to english. I recomment going through this booklet to get a flavour of my approach.
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I am not a master! That is to say that I am not able to fully identify the inner world
of an aspirant, to gauge the quality of his meditation in order to fully accompany him to
yoga (Union with the Divine). ”Yogi on the Path of Eternal Bliss” (Milarepa), I am able to
share some ”yogic tricks” that may be useful for your sadhana. I emphasize the concept of
autonomy, which is in my sense fundamental, even if one is fortunate to have a master of
confidence.
Framework/Rules A frame is proposed from the first evening and discussed together.
The goal of this framework is to set up a ”secure” environment in order to be confident and
to be able to live fully what is present and offered to us.
The basic rule is benevolence towards the group and towards oneself. Everyone is at their
own pace in relation to what is proposed, with the possibility of getting out of a practice at
any time if it is considered inappropriate or if it is not the moment. No obligation of results!
The proposed practices can make us contact the emotional dimension, which is an
integral part of the yogic work. Emotional discharges are welcomed with no judgment and
benevolence.
The aspect of ”group work” is essential. We sometimes experience intimate things
during these meetings and a confidentiality rule is laid down.
Those who have resistance to postural yoga are invited to go at their own pace, not to
force themselves and take their time. If needed sitting on a chair can replace the seat on the
floor.
The proposed teachings are part of the ”public domain” and are not covered by confi-
dentiality. Each one can experience, modify, distribute what is transmitted. However, it is
recommended to wait until an experiment is stable enough to share it.
Climate The climate in this period of the year is very pleasant. The monsoon is already
far away and the temperature oscillates between 20 and 30 degrees. Few humidity, nights
are ”fresh”.
I do not remember being bugged by mosquitoes during this time of the year. No manda-
tory or recommended vaccines.
Travel From Chennai (Madras) international airport: in bus (a few euros and a couple
of hours) or in taxi (about 50 euros, 2 hours maximum, a car comes to pick you up at the
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airport). The road is in good shape.
On site, we will be able to do everything on foot or in tuc-tuc if necessary.
Accommodation and meals We will stay at Rainbow Guest House5. It is located at 10
minutes walk from Ramana’s ashram, in a charming little alley where we share Indian life.
This area is very quiet for the Indian standard. Mostly individual rooms.
I spent a couple of nights there in 2017, the welcome is warm, the rooms very clean,
spacious and bright. The building is recent and endowed with improbable colors. On the
roof, a large covered terrace to welcome our practices, with a breathtaking view of the
mountain. We will have a personal kitchen.
Lunches will be taken in a nearby restaurant (Satya’s cafe, 300 m from the hotel) who
will propose us a vegetarian thali. I ate there every day during a month in 2017, with my
partner and our children. This restaurant has the distinction of welcoming both Westerners
and Indians customers. This family establishment is held by sincere Śiva devotees with
whom I regularly exchange. The family father regularly organizes food distribution6.
Breakfast can also be taken at Satya’s cafe. Another option will be to prepare some
fruit salads at the hotel.
The evening meal is at oneself’s discretion (except the first night we meet and dine
together).
It is likely that we all eat together in the evening too. That being said, this freedom
allows the one who needs to take a moment for oneself’s to do it on this occasion.
Planning and price The final price will depend on the number of people registered (lim-
ited to a dozen). A range will be proposed, each paying what seems to him possible in this
range. The most likely range is between 550 and 800 euros, all included (accomodation,
meals, teachings, donations). In any case the minimum price of 550 euros is fixed and will
not increase.
Possible to pay in several times over the period end-2019/mid-2020 (contract based on
mutual trust). If sincere motivation but financial difficulties, contact me. Possible to leave
5https://www.facebook.com/RainbowTiru/
6https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65i7Uf7MTcM &
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Yw-QbGhPvw
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more, that will be used in the development of Khecari Devi Ashram activities.
Not included: visa, trip to Tiruvanamalai and evening dinner (between 0.5 and 5/10
euros at restaurants; possible to cook simple dinner at the hotel).
200 euros at inscription. 100 euros non refundable, 100 euros refundable before october
15th, 2019. What remains before departure, unless you pay in several times until mid-2020.
Inscriptions open until october 15th.
Around This week of pilgrimage may be part of a longer trip to India, even in Asia? A
safe travel agency allows to book/buy bus/train/plane tickets. Tiruvanamalai is located at
one hour driving from Pondicherry and Auroville. Nice temples long the coast. I can help
to organise what comes before and after the pilgrimage if necessary.
Fig. 1.— Arunachala. Left: Very green, during rain season. Right: As seen from Anna-
malaiyar temple.
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Fig. 2.— Rainbow Guest House. Top: Roof top terrace. Bottom: View from the roof top.