Around the World in 106 Days with

Ray & Claire!!

Part 30 – Marquesas Islands

Located about 700 miles northeast of Tahiti, the

Marquesas are made up of 15 islands out of which only 6

are inhabited.

Stretching over 350km, they are divided up in to north and

south.Nuku Hiva (which we visited)

is a volcanic island to the North West and is the

Marquesas principal island.

It has a population of around 2600, which is primarily Polynesian, with a small

proportion of Europeans - mostly from Metropolitan

France

The Marquesas were first discovered and colonized about 2,000 years ago, by

Polynesian voyagers.

They named the Island group “Hen-ua En-na” or

“Ground of the Men”

Although they had no written language the

Polynesians developed a culture rich in oral

traditions, folk law and decorative arts.

A warrior of Nuku Hiva with a spear and a hand fan by Wilhelm Gottlieb

Tilesius von Tilenau, 1813.

Women and children seem to have been cannibalized just for food, whereas warriors killed in

battle were offerings to the gods and were eaten by their

conquerors to absorb their power; their skulls were kept by their

slayers for the same reason, and hung from their loincloths.

The sculls had a hook arrangement to enable them to be hung on the

warriors belt

Human bones have been found indicating that the natives (similar to other Polynesian Islands) had turned

to cannibalism by the 1400’s

It is still debated why they practiced cannibalism and

whilst it is thought that it was more for food than a ritual –

rituals, nevertheless played a big part.

The remnants of a “cooking pot” used for sacrifices

After 1400, certain religious and ceremonial structures (some of monumental size) were built, including the To-hua and the Tiki, which are

characteristic of this classical period

The To-hua was a plaza that could accommodate special village activities. Similar to the Maori Marae, it had an

open area in the middle, probably built to

commemorate the birth of a first son, or the death of a

chief or a priest. Scribe’s NoteSee later about the renovation of the

site of Temehea and existing Tikis on

that site

The To-hua became the chief's hereditary property and part of his family's residential complex; so, in a sense,

the To-hua was the chief's compound to which he would invite guests, visitors, and sometimes the entire

village for special events, dancing and feasting.

Marquesan Chieftess

Tiki refers to large wood or stone carvings of humanoid

forms in Central Eastern Polynesian cultures.

The term is also used in Maori mythology where Tiki is the first man, created by either Tumata-uenga or Tane who found the first woman, Mari-kori-ko, in a

pond. She seduced him and he became the father of Hine-kau-

ataata.

The Tiki on Nuku Hiva which still stand on this site are only

remnants of the vast array of monumental statues

Many have since disappeared, either into museums or private collections, or have simply been weather damaged – especially

in the case of the wooden figures

The Marquesans lived happily - if not peacefully - until the Spanish explorer Alvaro de Mandana blundered across the islands during his search for the legendary land of Ophir.

Mendana believed that in Ophir he would find King Solomon’s mines - the source of gold for King Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem.

Although he didn’t find gold on the Marquesas - he did come across a great number of longhaired, ornately tattooed savages and inevitably

found conflict.

The Marquesians or Hivans were a savage warlike people, not to mention their penchant for eating people.

By the end of his visit though, Mendana and his crew had killed over 200 Marquesans, including many women and children.

.

Nearly two centuries were to pass before the next white visitor Captain

James Cook, arrived in 1774.

Although this visit was less traumatic, blood was still spilt.

Perhaps with more disastrous consequences, Cook's expedition had was the effect of opening the Marquesas to the outside world.

Catholic missionaries reached the island in 1839 and the religion took

hold when the archipelago was seized by the French in 1842

With little respect or comprehension for the people upon whom they had intruded,

the early European visitors had a dramatic and destructive effect

on the Marquesans and their culture, with the banning of tattooing, singing, dancing,

artwork and any activities related to the old religion

Marquesans performing a dance

The introduction of firearms, alcohol and a multitude of diseases decimated the local population and contributed

to an element of self-destructive anarchy.

In the brief period of only 60 years, their two thousand year old culture had disintegrated, one

of the reasons being due to smallpox disease, introduced by the uninvited visitors.

Nowadays, there are fewer than 10,000 inhabitants on the Marquesas and apparently

none of them are pure blood. Despite this, they are still very proud of their rich culture and

heritage.

Today, however Nuku Hiva is known for its towering spire like peaks, secluded lush valleys, ancient religious sites, fjord like bays and waterfalls so high that most of the descending water

evaporates on the way down There are no villages on the western side and the coastline on the eastern part of the island has

few places to land by sea and takes the brunt of the ocean swells.

Once more we had to anchor offshore and had to be brought in by the Ship’s Tenders’...

....and we were greeted in true Polynesian style

..even the children seemed pleased to see us

...and Claire discussed shopping opportunities with Dawn and Linda

The town of Taio-hae was easy to explore on foot as its main street follows the curving shoreline of the Bay for about 2 miles

....in any case, there were no taxis, so we decided to walk.

The ship

dropped

anchor here

Anyone want to buy a Ship?

I cannot understand what she is

talking about – I think she

must be English

Taio-hae is a pretty little village next to the sea

Walking round, heading west, we came across the Town Hall. This (along with the Post Office, Wharf and Tourist Information Centre) is located in the area of the original French settlement, which is behind Taio-hae and where U.S. Navy Commodore David Porter built a temporary base from which he raided British

shipping in the Pacific during the War of 1812.

A little further on, we reached the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame.

The gate to the compound was part of a wall from the original 19th-century church, but this modern version was built around 1977.

Inside the cathedral there were some marvelous stone and woodcarvings that each island had donated

The pulpit and Stations of the Cross are elaborately carved from single trunks of Tamanooo, which is ironwood or Australian Pine.

Outside St. Paul holds a spear instead of his

Sword of Damocles.St Peter holds

breadfruit which substitutes as the olive tree and the

Hinano beer is depicted as one of the seven deadly

sins!

As you will remember from previous

presentations, the Breadfruit plant was an important part of the

Polynesian diet

Families still use it today and when it is

cooked on the embers of an open fire, peeled and then cut, it tastes something between a slice of bread and a

cake

Outside there are a couple of stone sculptures, one of the Pope & the other of the Madonna & Child (which the cameraman forgot to take a picture of!)……

....and a cheery farewell wave from Raymond

Heading back to the coastal road we came across a

monument to Herman Melville

Although this American Novelist is probably best known for writing

“Moby Dick”, he also wrote a book called “Typee” based on his

experiences in the Taipivai valley

Mah-noi – used as a skin and hair softener (see

later)

A French 1880 War Memorial Another ancient monument

At the far end of the Bay we came across a black sand beach which (apparently) is very popular with visitors and from which locals launch their racing canoes

..and overlooking the sand are these lodges which belong to the only Hotel on the Island – and which cost about $US 2000 per night to rent

...and yes, just to prove a point,

Raymond had to purchase

something from Ruth (the owner)!

..and nearby was a museum with a little shop

Time to get back round to our Ship a we only have a short stop over here

But on our way back, we came across this old building. At first we thought that it was an old farmhouse or hall or something but then discovered that it is in fact the local jail!

This is the only one, perhaps not surprisingly, on the island and is generally used for “short stay” internments

The Island is literally full of colour

Near the Pier was some stalls selling handicrafts such as wood carvings, seeds, shell necklaces, bone carving and par-eos – which is the Tahitian word for a wrap around skirt - and Monoi oil.

Monoi oil is infused oil made from soaking the petals of Tahitian gardenias in semi-wax coconut oil.

Monoi oil (an ancient Tahitian word meaning "scented oil”) is widely used among French Polynesians as a skin and hair softener, it is also popular in

Europe and gaining ground in the United States

Using one of the Ship’s Tender to get back on board and were chased by one of the local Racing Canoes

The two canoeist in the background gave up, but this one chased us all the way to the Ship

..and there was the Black Watch waiting for us to Buckle up and get ready for NINE days at sea and nine days of entertainment and

relaxation before we reached our next Port of Call at Callao

Claire is going to be busy over the next nine days what with

Art and Choir

24 Mar to 1 Apr 2012

Ray will do his usual sunbathing, a bit of Gym, some dance lessons (with Claire) and “playing” with

his computers

23 Mar 2012

Madam ensures that she is suitably dressed for the occasion

(She just “loves” comics!)

24 Mar 2012

A truly excellent, profession

al West End Show!

25 Mar 2012

26 Mar 2012

The International Cocktail Party for the 200 or so Non-Brits on board the Black Watch

(Which Raymond gatecrashed as he said he was from Riddiford...and also there was free champagne! Where was Mrs Wembley when there was

champagne on offer? At a Women's Institute Meeting!!)

This was an

amazing Show by a top range Magician

26 Mar 2012

We dancers do get hungry

you know!

Cant you see? The missing

card is in his mouth!

Andy had four people from the audience sat at the table within inches of his

hands.He also had a camera show so that the

audience could see what was happening – and still he managed to give a faultless

show - he is banned from the Ships Casino by the way!!

27 Mar 2012

28 Mar 2012

That was great fun AND we got a

standing ovation....well

Raymond stood up (but I think he was

off to the Loo!)

29 Mar 2012

Oooh!They do make a

smashing couple

Is he talking

about us?

I think that we are much

nicer pair than that

other couple

30 Mar 2012

Its OK Ray – I’ll make sure

that she doesn't

leave with anything!

31 Mar 2012

“I only asked what was the Baked Alaska

like – and all of a sudden the waiters Fidel

and Cecil went mad!”

“As Cruise Director – I

thought that it might help her to sing the top

notes at the next Choral Concert!”

“But I don't like Baked

Alaska – can I just have

an ice cream for a

change!”

“We are ready to rock and

roll!”

“and we have

done all their hair”

The Parade of the Chefs

Claire’s first attempts at water colour

painting

Beginners Class

(Leg 1)

1 2

3 4

Second Leg

87

65

9 1011

1213

“Own Choice!”

Third Leg