apparel industry export overview

8/12/2019 Apparel Industry export Overview

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overview of the major steps in producing a garment detailed discussion of these stepsas executed in Modelama exports pvt ltd (Woven wear division) is presented in thisreport further.

LINE DEVELOPMENT OR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT STAGE

The scope of this line starts from the very concept of the design up to the productionstage. There are two stages here-

Predevelopment stage (before the order is placed) Post development stage (after the order is placed)

Pre development

Concept development- Based on the buyers need and ideas developed, a well targetedproduct assortment is selected in the first meeting. The design may be completelyoriginal, or selected from styles developed in past or simply a result of trial and error.

Once the ideas of the buyers have taken birth in the merchandisers mind, an initial costestimation for the style is made.

Now the first patterns are made which may be modified later during the fit process.Initial patterns are normally done manually. Using these patterns prototype garments(first samples) are made and reviewed. The buyer sits together with the merchandiserto finalize the looks, eliminate some styles and order for final development samples withmore specific instructions. These samples are then reviewed for cost, productionfeasibility, styling, sourcing for production, fabric requirements and availability, and

profit potential. The decision is made at this point whether the garment will be acceptedas a part of the new line and the final order is placed.

Post development

Once the final selections from the line have been designated for production, the nextsteps of pre-assembly occur. The styling and the fit are perfected for the final garment.

Making the production pattern

A highly skilled pattern master makes the production pattern for the garment inone size and a fit sample is developed for the buyers approval for fit.

Pattern grading After the basic pattern is perfected and approved by the buyer, grading

instructions are received to produce patterns for that garment in all the sizes.This is called size set. It is again sent for buyers approval and the finalized


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sealed sample becomes the pre-production sample. No design changes will beincorporated after this.

Marker making

The next step after grading is marker making. The marker is made according tothe ratio of orders. The marker is a long paper diagram that shows theplacement of all of the various pattern pieces for all the sizes produced as theyshould be laid in order to cut the cloth economically and in appropriate grain line.

Ordering of production fabrics and supplies

By this time the fabric sourcer would have already been in touch with textile millsand vendors of trims, buttons, zippers, and other components. Up to this pointthe company had ordered only enough to make the samples. But once thepurchase order and the quality approval for the fabric from the buyer arereceived, the final order is placed with the vendors based on sales orders.

Final arrangements for production are made

Production, planning and control and Methods engineering departments are nowbrought into the picture, who get ready to prepare the production floor for thenew style.

Final specifications are developed

Specifications are brief written descriptions or guidelines for how the garmentshould be produced and standards for the finished item. This includes standardsfor materials used, how assembly should occur, and details for what is expectedin the garment.

Final costing

Although a quick pre-costing occurred early in the predevelopment stage, a finalcosting occurs in the post-development stage before production begins. This isdetailed costing to provide an accurate picture of what actual costs are going tobe and to find ways to minimize costs wherever possible.

PRODUCT SOURCING AND PRODUCTION

Cutting

Markers, production instructions and specifications are developed and sent to thecutting room. Cutting occurs with the marker, which provides the cutting plan.CAD sends a cut order to the cutting room to determine the quantity of garments


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to be cut in various sizes. Layers of fabric are rolled out on long tables, marker isfixed on top of the layered fabric and then the cutter uses electrically poweredportable knives and follows lines on the marker to cut through fabric layeredseveral inches deep.

Production: Garment assembly

The cut parts of the garment are then collected, identified, and passed along forthe sewing operation. At OC, progressive bundle system is followed i.e. workerssew one part of the garment in an assembly line manner. Workers are paidaccording to the number of pieces they produce.

After the assembly the garments are inspected in a separate inspectiondepartment to ensure that the garments meet the quality standards expected.

Workers then finish the pieces by trimming the loose threads and prepare it forpressing.

Garments are pressed to give a pleasing appearance to customers who will viewfinished items.

Now the garments are ticketed where price tags and other hangtags may beattached.

SHIPPING

Once the garments are off the finishing line they are now ready to be packedand dispatched whenever and wherever the buyer demands in the most cost-effective manner. Garments are shipped to the buyers warehouses in differentcountries, usually in cartons.

Thus we see how many steps are involved in getting a garment on the sales floor andhow many people have contributed in important ways to produce and deliver thegarment. A great many decisions and activities are part of the apparel development andproduction process. Each step is important in producing the merchandise that willultimately satisfy the buyers customers and the apparel manufacturer strives to do hisbest in achieving it.


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PRE-DEVELOPMENT

The Idea-Buyers need

-Merchandisersand designer ideas

Ideas developedinto sketches

Fabrics and othertrims are orderedfor first sample

Cost estimation(Quick-costing)

Fabric sent tocutting room-spread and

garments cut out

Buyer sends thesealer sample-pre

productionsamplefinalized

Fabrics and othertrims for sampling

are ordered

Additions/changesmade as perbuyers need

First sample-Prototypeis

developed

Proto samplereviewed

Developmentsamplemade

Additions/changesmade as perbuyers need

Sample finalized &Buyer places order

POST-DEVELOPMENT

Patterndevelopment for

sample

Fit sampleisdeveloped &

reviewed

Sample developed& reviewed

Production patternis finalized

First pattern isdeveloped

Grading detailssent by the buyer

Pattern isgraded

Sizesetdevelopedand reviewed

Fabric is sourcedand approved by

bu er

Productionpackage is

forwarded toproductionmanager

PPC departmentsets production

schedule

Final qualitychecks and

finishing

Logistics decides

the line set-up

Fabric in-housedand inspected

Cut garments goto sewing

operations andassembled

Garments aregiven final

production detailsand pressed

Buyers QCinspection

Ready forshipment

PRODUCTION

Tagging andpacking of the

garmentsProduction marker

is made


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Merchandising

Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executedand presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development ofproduct lines from start to finish. A merchandiser represents its manufacturing unit andworks with the buyers for its product development.

In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects.Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of product development and coordinatingwith the buyer, the garment styles that meet buyers expectations in regard to delivery,

quality, and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handlingpaperwork and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc. Once theorder is placed it is their duty to complete the necessary paperwork, provide breakdown

information to all other departments and get samples approved for fit, color and quality.Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production samples,and development of fabrics and yarns are also included in product development, whichare co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with thebuyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers.Overall we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.

MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES

First communication with the buyer

After the head of the manufacturing firm, merchandiser is the first person who meet thebuyer and who remain in their constant touch thereafter. The buyer approaches themwith a design concept in his mind and accordingly the merchant offers what he haspertaining to those concepts. Designer with the help of merchandiser works on rangesusing these ideas that have been communicated by the buyer. From these ranges thebuyer picks up a style assortment and requests for proto development.

Co-coordinating pre-development activities

The proto development can be done on any base patterns, in any colors or in any styles

as liked by the buyer. It is the first stage of giving an outline to the requirements of thebuyer. A number of meetings and plenty of communication take place between thebuyer and the merchant before he wishes for development of samples selected fromthe range of protos. Merchant gets these protos made in the sampling department andreviews it with the buyer. Once request for development sample is placed and the firstpatterns begin taking shape, initial costing is done to estimate the price of the selectedgarment. Making of development samples if a


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Dyeing methodWashing and finishing detailsPackaging detailsGarment sketchesGarment type/category etc.

Construction overviewGeneral constructionDetailed constructionTrims detailsThread detailsFabric detailsCutting details (two way etc.)Insertions, seam type etc.Pictures of the trims

Design component worksheetColor of trims, embroidery, decorative stitching etc.

Multi-sample/Spec worksheetSample commentsTolerance detailsRevised spec details etc.

Trim research sheetQuality, type, measurement of trims

Embroidered samples

Pitch sheetEmbellishment details like color fastness, fabric type & colors, color keys, shadecard for the colors etc.

Lab dipsSwatches of lab dipsMatching light conditionsComments

Shade approval

Pitch sheet (combo) for patternColor keys for all patterns

Fabric chart


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Details about the vendor, description of fabric, type, finishes, construction,colors, dips etc.

Development sample summaryStyle

GroupYarnGSMFabricPricingNumber of units orderedTrims etc.

It is the merchants task to keep a well-managed record every detail sent by the buyer,get the samples made and approved for production and also to send out necessarydirectives for subsequent processes.

Costing

The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate forthe cost of production before the buyer sends out his PO. During the pre-developmentstage an initial costing occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurredper piece. These costs include general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washingcost, markup cost etc. Once the production sample is approved and grading done afinal costing is done accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.

A garment costing includes:

Manufacturers costMaterials

FabricLiningThreadTrims like zipper, elastic, buttons etc.

LaborDirect expensesFactory burden

Warehousing and transporatation

Packing costs (tags, labels, hangers, pins, bags, cartons etc.)

OverheadsSewing expenses

Administrative expenses


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Financing and interestReturns and allowances

Trade discountsTaxes

MarkdownsShortages

The merchant first calculates the net weight (weight of the area of pattern pieces +wastages + collars, pockets, patches etc.) and then the gross weight (net weight + costof trims, sewing thread, labels etc.) to reach the cost of raw material. Other costs likethat of markup etc. are then added. These are normally standardized by the companyitself.

Co-ordinating other departments

Sampling

Sampling and merchandising go hand in hand. The merchant gets the samples madefrom this department, communicates his comments (like workmanship, fitting,measurement, fabric, accessories, print/embroidery) to the sampling head, patternmasters and QC of the department and finally follows up to get these changesincorporated in the style. He arranges for everything that is required in the style withthe help of other departments.

Embroidery department

The merchant prepares the embroidery program for the embroidery department as perbuyers needs. This program includes a graphics-briefing sheet (details about color,threads, type of embroidery etc.), artwork, threads, fabric and placement instructions.

Fabrics department

Merchandiser gets the fabric requirements from the buyer, instructs the fabricsdepartments accordingly, gets its pre testing and the lab dips approved and finallyorders for the bulk fabric.

Trims store


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While ordering trims the merchandiser first calculates average number of trims that will be

required per piece. Then he prepares the trim sheet, which has all the trims that will be usedin a particular style. This is sent to the store along with a request of the total quantity

needed and the store places the order accordingly. Swatch cards of the procured trims arereceived from the store and approval made if it meets the buyers specification.

Making the production package

When the pre-production sample is approved, the merchant contracts out the completeproduction of garments from cutting to finishing in form of a production package. Thisis handed out to the PPC department for further action.

Following reorders

Risk is a great concern in garment industry especially in fashionable apparel. Buyersusually test the market with a limited number of units, which they call as sales samples.

According to the orders received by their customers, they reorder for that particularstyle instead of having them in stock. The merchant must be prepared for an order forthe sales samples at any stage so that it can deliver them on time.

Sampling

A sample is a prototype of a product to be manufactured in future course of production.It can also be called Mock-up of a product and is made to check the designeffectiveness and fit of the garment. Sampling is set of procedures followed to producevarious sample styles. It contains activities like making of patterns for prototypesaccording to measurements, to produce sample with help of machinery and gettingbuyers approval for the sample produced.

BASIC WORK FLOW:

In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most importantdepartments and it plays a vital role in the up liftment of a unit.

Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the Merchandising and ProductionDepartment. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced inbulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern. Patterns aremade according to the buyers specification.

Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches,fabric details, embellishment details, stitch types etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser


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files this information along with details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction,size set and approval in to a Style Package and hands it over to the Samplingdepartment head.

Sampling department head will receive the package from the merchant and understand

about the requirements of the design. He allocates the style to a particular patternmaster for its development. Pattern master co-ordinates with the CAD department inthis regard. CAD will be responsible for digitizing the first patterns, fit corrections,gradings, size set correction, costing the marker for fabric order, making productioncutting marker, pattern cuttings by CAD cutter and shrinkage addition in the patterns.The pattern master studies the style package thoroughly and makes the pattern on thebrown paper pattern sheet, giving all the seam allowances, notches, darts, and stylefeatures as specified in the design sheets. The first pattern is made in medium size.This pattern is sent to the head-cutting master of the sampling department who getsthe fabric cut accordingly. Three sizes of the same pattern size are cut. Themerchandiser himself procures the fabric required for sampling from the store. Beforesampling the fabric also undergoes the lab test and gets an approval by the buyer.

After the fabric is cut, the components are sent back to the individual pattern mastershandling that particular style. Pattern master gets it stitched in his line keeping in mindall the technicalities, design features and different types of stitches. The merchandisergives the required accessories to the pattern master. Before cutting the fusing andembroidery is done if needed. The cut pieces are then stitched in their respectiveallotted sampling assembly lines, washed, checked by the sampling QC and finallyfinished and packed. These activities are personally taken care of the junior

merchandisers and the line in charge so that quality samples are delivered within thetime limit.

The samples so prepared are inspected and checked for fit by the QA and sampling incharge. If they find any discrepancies they send back for correction or remake. Untilthey are satisfied, the merchant will not be sending them for buyers approval.

At this first stage the sampling head also carries out initial costing with the help of themerchandiser for the entire garment. Sampling head is responsible for pattern makingtargets, setting sample sewing targets, setting responsibilities for concern, getting thework under control process and to make formats for each stage. His approval is must

for execution of any next process in the department.

Out of the three samples made, two are sent to the buyer for approval and one is keptfor own reference. If the samples are according to the buyers specifications one pieceis sent back with approval. If the sample is not up to the mark, then the buyer sends acomment sheet in which the further alterations are specified and fresh patterns andsamples are made according to the comment sheet.


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When buyers approval is sort, size set grading preparation begins according to thedetails sent by him to the merchant. At this stage the CAD department gives the secondaverage (costing) as per grading for fabric booking. Grading in different sizes is done bythe CAD according to the graded spec sheet sent by the buyer. Size sheet is also

received which states the size ratio according to which the graded patterns are cut inthat many number. For example the buyer may ask a size set as: S-1, M-3, L-2, XL-1etc.

Garments are made in this ratio and are checked by the QC in a similar manner asdiscussed earlier. Approved pieces are handed over to the merchant who sorts buyersapproval for size set. If any changes are requested in the size set report then the CADmakes the corrections in the patterns and samples are re made afresh. If satisfied, thebuyer sends back two pieces of medium size with a seal on it. This becomes the Sealersample or the pre production sample. Production will be carried out according to thissample. At this stage one final costing is done after incorporating all the changes likeshrinkage, tolerances etc.

The merchant now integrates the PP sample, order details, sample details, patterns,markers etc. into a production package and hands it over to the PPC department forfurther development.

Types of Samples:

Proto Sample: It is made in three pieces. One kept for own reference and twosent to buyer for approval. These are the first ones to be made.

Fit sample: They are also made three in number, two for buyer and one for ownreference. These are accurate in fit and size, and made exactly in the same GSMand fabric as required. They have been perfected after a number of alterations inthe measurements.

Testing sample: Two of them are made. These samples are made to undergotests at the testing lab.

Size set sample: The buyer specifies the size ratio and sizes. Then the samplesare made according to these sizes. This forms the size set.

Sales Sample: For a pre-launch the buyer may request any quantity of theirsamples to be made before time. These are paid samples.

Photo shoot: The buyer may ask for these samples for photo shoot or advertisingof their product.

Fabric Sourcing


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Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where itsmerchandise i.e. fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with themerchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the

scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcer must have knowledge about all varieties offabrics in order to execute their functions effectively.

Once the Purchase Order is received by the merchandiser, the fabric sourcing in-chargegets to know the delivery schedule of the raw materials needed to meet therequirements of the production schedule. Then before seeking the suppliers for fabric,he studies the specifications of the goods that have to be ordered. These specs includetolerance limits for all the parameters of the raw material, construction, esthetics,

durability, utility and processing performance. The merchandiser receives these specsfrom the buyer and hands-over them to the fabric sourcing department for procurementof the fabric accordingly. Fabric sourcer also sources for trims and other specialty

fabrics.

Once the fabric sourcer knows what he must get and when it is due, he prepares a listof suppliers (Indian or Foreign) who can furnish the required quality and quantity, whenand where needed at the desired price. He presents his requirements and specs to thevendors and finalizes the supplier on basis of the consistency of raw material supplied,on-time delivery and competitive prices. The supplier manufactures the fabric accordingto the specifications and sends the first lot for approval.

Greige Fabric Suppliers Lakra Brothers Super Fine Kapoor Coats Ltd. Oswal Fashion Pvt Ltd. Ruhia Cotex Ltd. Mercury Knits Vallabh Yarn Shakthi Hosiery Saveena Agmotex

Dyed Fabric Suppliers J.L.Knits Attar Filte Dhruv Global


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Shyamtex Gem Knits

Woven fabric is also imported from countries like Taiwan, Hong Kong and china.

Once the first fabric lot is received, yardages from it are sent to testing lab. The test

report is sent to the merchandiser for buyers approval. If the buyer gives the approvalthe bulk is in-housed, otherwise the fabricators are instructed accordingly. As the bulkfabric is received, it is sent for physical inspection in the store itself.

When greige fabric is procured, it needs to be dyed in the same shade as required bythe buyer. Here fabric sourcer approaches dyeing units with its dyeing program. First itgets Lab Dips of the fabric in the required color shade from the dyeing unit. These dyedsample swatches are sent for buyers approval for nearest match. Then only the dyeingunit is given a go ahead for dyeing the goods in the approved shade.

Yardages from dyed or ready goods (bought directly) are sent for lab testing atnominated labs of the buyer for a number of physical and chemical tests as specified byhim. The reports and sample fabric from the lot are sent to the buyer who crosschecksthem and gives an approval for bulk cutting if he is satisfied with the results. Correctshade match, GSM, color fastness, washing behavior etc. are some of the mostimportant properties that are looked for in the fabric. If the fabric does not meet thestandards, it may have to be sent for washing or re dyeing. Once the fabric is confirmedfor bulk production, and all the lots are in-housed, the fabrics department informs thePPC department.

Fabric source department has a track of all the information about the goods available in

its store. Order Tracking System installed in the store keeps their databases updatedwith the latest arrival and dispatch of goods from the store. These databases informthem about how much fabric is in-house, how much has been issued, what fabric isavailable in the store etc.

People from the department keep in regular touch with the fabric and trims vendors fortheir latest offerings. They visit other countries; meet the suppliers and source out mostup to date varieties of fabrics and trims, which they can offer to their buyers in future.

Receive PO frommerchandiser

Prepare a fabricrequisition

Raise the requisition

to vendors

Send goods fordyeing

Receive dyed goods

Receive shade

approval


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Testing Laboratory


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Garments are made from fabric with the help of sewing threads and a number ofaccessories like buttons, laces, ribbons, labels etc are sewn on them. All these thingsused to construct a garment have uncertain characteristics i.e. we do not know howthey will behave in conditions like washing, sunlight, heat etc. when used by theconsumer. Any undesirable changes in the fabric, thread or the trims would detract theaesthetic value of the garment and decrease its utility before time. Thus it becomesnecessary to check or test the characteristics of all these components under theconditions to which they are susceptible to change or get damaged. Fabric and trims

are tested for their quality, durability, color fastness, dimensional stability and physicalknow-how. Goods are procured from the suppliers only when the lab tests resultsconfirm that they comply with the standards or requirements of the buyers.

The buyers are also specific about the test method that has to be followed. AATCC andASTM are two American standards that are used in the lab. AATCC (AmericanAssociation of Textile Chemists and Colorists) standards are given primarily for allthe colorfastness and dimensional stability. ASTM (American Standard for TestingMaterials) covers all the physical tests.ISO (International Standard Organization) is a European standard, which covers

the colorfastness tests and the dimensional stability tests.

Modelama has its own in-house fabric-testing laboratory equipped with all sophisticatedinstruments as per AATCC and ISO standards, where tests on fabric, garments, andtrims are conducted. There are separate dry, wet and chemical testing areas in the labalong with a dark room for color matching.

BASIC WORK FLOW:


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Testing lab receives the fabric to be tested along with a test request form either fromthe fabric sourcing department or the fabric store (or garment from Quality

Assurance/Merchandising departments). This form contains all the details like buyername, style, sample description, and vendor. A swatch of the fabric to be tested is

pasted on the form and tests to be conducted are specified. Depending on the numberand type of tests to be carried, fabric yardages are sent to the lab (almost meter to2 meter)

Testing is done on behest of buyer and it is the buyer who specifies the tests to beconducted. Fabric sourcing department coordinates the communication and testingactivities. Each buyer has its standard acceptance levels in testing. He may requiretesting to be done at a specified testing laboratory or one nominated by the buyerhimself.

Standard testing conditions (temperature and humidity) are maintained in thelaboratory by precision temperature and humidity controller. Set temperature of the

lab is 21C +/- 1Cwhile set relative humidity is 65% +/- 2%

Once the fabric is received for testing, it is allowed to relax, condition and acclimatize tothe standard temperature and humidity maintained in the laboratory for at least 2 to 4hours.

A variety of tests are conducted on the conditioned samples but some of the tests likethat of washing, crocking, rubbing, dimensional stability, count, fabric construction,GSM, content etc. are necessarily carried out for every fabric/garment. Following is a

list of tests carried out in the lab:

Color fastness to

Washing (30, 40, 49) Crocking/rubbing Water Perspiration Dry-clean Non chlorine/chlorine bleach Actual laundering Light

Physical tests for

Count Construction Fabric weight


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Twist/inch Spirality Button pull test

Dimensional stability after

Washing Dry-clean

General Garment appearance

Pilling testChemical tests for

Fibre content pH of water extract/surface pH

Concept of gray scales:

Color fastness and pilling tests require grading of the results to draw objective inferenceof the behavior of the fabric or garment. Grading means comparing the tested and thestandard fabric. This is done with the help of gray scales.

Gray scale standards are of two types: one, that is used for testing the variation in color

and the other that is used for the purpose of measuring the variation in the stain beforeand after wash or dry-cleaning.

The stained or the tested fabric is matched with the shades on the gray scale in thelight box kept in dark room. Matching is done on a slab that is tilted at an angle of 45degrees in artificial light equivalent to sunlight.

The gray scales show values ranging from 0 to 5 each indicating a different level ofshade variation. For e.g. a value of 5 on gray scale used for stains indicates perfectwhite i.e. no variation found, 4 indicates slightly stained and this way the variationkeeps increasing as we move towards the value of zero. Similarly a value of 5 in a gray

scale used to test the color variation indicates no color variation, a value of 4 indicatesslight color variation and this way the variation keeps increasing as we move towardsthe value of zero.

A value on gray scale below 4 is not acceptable unless otherwise specified by the buyer.


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After conducting all the required tests, a test reportis made which contains the resultsof testing. It also includes comments and inferences pertaining to the results by thetesting department. This report is sent back to the fabric-sourcing department, where itwill be decided the fabric has passed the test or not and whether the fabric isacceptable according to the set standards.

EQUIPMENT USED IN THE TESTING LAB

Testing Equipment

Equipment Purpose

Dry area

Pick glass/counting glass Constructional parameters like CPI, WPI

GSM Cutter To cut a standard size sample fabric for GSM

Electric Balance For weighing and determining count, GSM etc.

Pilling Tester Predict pilling behavior

Crock Meter (Manual & computerized) Color fastness to rubbingBursting strength tester Measure bursting strength of the knit fabric

Snap Tester Measures snap button and pulling strength

Light Fastness Tester Color fastness to sunlight

Data Color Spectra flash (Spectrophotometer) Color matching and recipe formulation

Wet area

Front Loading Washing Machine General Wash

Top loading washing machine For shrinkage/spirality test

Laundrometer Color fastness to washing and Dry cleaning

Tumble Dryer Drying washed fabric

Hot air oven For drying

Chemical area

Spiro meter Color fastness to perspirationpH Meter Measure pH of chemical solutions prepared

*ReferAppendix Afor the testing procedures and chemicals used.


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WORKFLOW IN TESTING LAB

Receive FabricYardage/Garment &

Test Request Form

Acclimatize thefabric in standard

atmosphere for 3 hrs

Prepare Test Report

DRY/PHYSICALTESTING

WET/CHEMICALTESTING

GRADING with GrayScales

Send back reportwith comments


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Fabric Store

Modelama maintains its own in-house centralized fabric store, which caters to the needsof eight-knitwear units spread in Gurgaon and surrounding areas. Fabric storehouse isthe actual area where the fabric for production is received or dispatched for processing.Besides storage the fabric store department is also responsible for the inspection of thegoods received by it.

The activities going on in the fabric storehouse are briefly explained ahead.

ORDER PROCESSING AND FABRIC IN-HOUSE

The merchant receives the Purchase Order from the buyer. On the basis of thispurchase order, the fabric sourcer prepares a requisition for the fabric as per thedemands of the buyer and raises it to the fabric vendors in the market. The best dealand the vendor are finalized and the order is placed. The factory may send the yarnfrom the store to the fabricators for fabric production, buy greige goods for dyeing ordirectly order the processed fabric to the vendors. Once the fabrics department receivesthe approval for the fabric, the vendor sends it in form of lots within the specified time

FABRIC STORAGE AREA

LOADING AREA UNLOADING AREA

ORDER TRACKING SYSTEM

TRIM STORE

GREIGE FABRIC STOREGreige fabricinspection

PROCESSED FABRICSTORE

Processed

fab

ric

inspection

table


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period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About 5% extra goods aresupplied by the vendor.

The fabric via transport trucks comes in various packages like rolls, book fold, openwidth etc. The packages are unloaded on conveyor belts (500 kg capacity), which takes

them to the weighing machine. Each consignment comes in with an invoice havingdetails like quantity, color, GSM, and weight. The goods are weighed and other detailsare reconfirmed before they are stored.

Bar code systemModelama uses a unique method for tracking its orders by Bar- coding. This automatedsystem reduces stress on order processing and invoicing which otherwise is highlypaperwork-intensive. It also eases management of back orders. The factory prepares itsown barcode stickers according to the P.O. and puts it on the goods once they are inhoused. Bar code is a series of vertical bars that helps to identify the merchandisecategory. Using a hand held laser scanner the bar codes are read and an Ordertracking System software interprets all the information contained in them like

PO no. Supplier no. Roll No. Component Color Size Lot no. OCL unit no. Estimated lot qty. Rolls Individual weight etc.

This information is uploaded automatically in all the computer systems of thedepartments like fabric store, fabric sourcing, production and PPC, merchandising (vianetworking), thus eliminating the burden of re-entering data. Bar coding allowsautomatic updating of records, rapid identification of the products and quick sortingwhenever they are dispatched from the fabric store to the vendors for processing or tothe cutting room.

Fabric stores maintains records on a daily, monthly and yearly basis for all the goods

received both quality-wise and quantity-wise. The goods are in-housed in the store atleast one month prior to production. Besides fabric the storehouse is also responsiblefor the receiving ordered trims and other fabrics.

FABRIC INSPECTION


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The fabric being the main contributor to the development of our final product i.e. thegarment, it is very important to control its quality (indicated by the number of faultsand variations present in it. Identification of these objectionable variations and faultsright at the initial stage helps to reduce the production time. So once the fabric is in-

housed it is immediately sent on a pilot and trolley assembly to the inspection area.

Greige fabric inspection

The greige fabric is normally in tubular form and it is checked on the inspectionmachine inclined at an angle of 45. The machine has two rollers. One is Letoff rollerand the other is Take up roller. Let - off roller releases the fabric for checking andtakeup roller winds the fabric back. Special lights mounted at the top of machine andbeneath the fabric provide illumination (standard 500 lux) for checking both thesurfaces of the tubular fabric simultaneously. The speed of the rollers can be adjustedas required.

The checker loads the machine with the fabric roll and analyses the running fabric forfaults. Defects in greige fabric broadly occur due to two reasons- yarn defects or

knitting defects.

Yarn defects show up in the fabric in form of horizontal lines. Uneven yarn, unevenyarn tension, mixed yarn, uneven twist, weak yarn, misaligned and poor wound conesetc. are common yarn defects which give rise to fabric faults. Some of these faults arenot seen in dyed fabrics but others remain objectionable even after processing.


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Contamination is caused due to contaminated yarn or yarn mixed with dirt. Itscolor appears different from the base color. This is common problem in knittingwhen yarns of two different colours are used simultaneously. They remain evenafter dyeing.

Kitties occur due to the impurities present in the cotton fibre. These are spreadall over the fabric as tiny specs and get removed during processing of the fabric.

Slubsare formed due to knot and other yarn imperfections.Knitting defects usuallyshow up as vertical lines in the fabric. Bent or wrong needles,worn out machine parts, dirt accumulation in the machinery parts, poor machinesettings are reasons of knitting defects occurring in the fabric. Most knitting defects arenot removed during processing.

Holes and cuttings are the portion of the fabric, which has been cut or where noknitting has taken place. They may vary from very minute in size to very large.

Needle break occurs when the machine fails to knit due to a broken needle. Thisappears as long vertical lines of missing yarn; sometimes extending up to 2meter.

Stain of machine oil and dirt are acquired in the fabric during handling of thefabric. They are removed during washing.

Sinker Lineis a calendar line that appears in whole roll of fabric, as small streaksdue to stiff sinkers.

Knit-in faults are missing or overlapped loops and they occur due to wrongmachine timings, or when the needle fails to make loop or knock off.

Needle marks occur in the fabric due to dirt and oil accumulated in the needle ordue to improper needle size.

Fly is loose fluff trapped in the yarn during knitting. It is removed duringprocessing. Edge knitting occurs in collars and ribs when the flatbed-knitting machine fails to

knit at the edge turning. Knitting tension variationsdue to improper cam settings, or machine stoppages

manifest in the knit fabric in form of uneven elastic behavior.

There are norms for every fault that appears in the bolt pertaining to its frequency ofoccurrence and dimensions, which would lead to its rejection. For e.g. a roll havingmore than 10 holes will be rejected. The checker keeps the number of defects he hascome across in his mind and based on his experience and the minimum rejection

criterion (4 point AQL system) he approves or rejects a roll. The roll if rejected is pastedwith a red sticker and sent back to vendor for replacement. If accepted, it is pastedwith green sticker and kept in store until sent for dyeing. An inspection register ismaintained to keep track of every roll inspected.

Processed fabric inspection


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Dyed and other processed goods are best inspected manually due to the problems inrecognition of minute variations. Two checkers do this job on large tables (measuring96.5 inches 48.5 inches) arranged in a row. Both sides of the tubular fabric arechecked one after another. Alteration stickers are placed wherever the fault is found.

Besides the faults mentioned before, some dyeing defects also creep in the fabricduring uneven processing and poor handling of the fabric.

Streaks of different shade occur due to uneven dyeing. They appears ashorizontal bars in the fabric.

Yarn barriness or often-called yarn patta is characterized by a ridge or markrunning in the crosswise or lengthwise directions of the fabric. Barriness can becaused by tension variations in the knitting process, poor quality yarns orproblems during the finishing process.

Shading (Side Selvedge or end to end) is a condition when shade variation isseen from the selvedges towards the center or from one end of the fabric toother. It is caused due to improper windup during dyeing.

Bowing and Skewness are very common faults in knits, occurring due to badmaterial handling during processing. They throw the fabric out of grain i.e. thecourses and the wales no longer remain perpendicular to each other.

*Refer to Appendix B for various types of woven fabric faults

Every defect encountered is marked with an arrow sticker. A fabric checking report isfilled which gives the details about the defects found. After the checking is done thefabric is repacked in large poly-bags and graded according to the standards set by

company. The grades are as follows:

Ist ClassNo defects IInds/Mended Class Defects are present but under acceptance level.

These defects can be mended to first class by subsequent processing. RejectedDefects are present beyond acceptance level

The fabric under Ist and IInd category are pasted with Green sticker and kept in storewhile the rejected one is pasted with red sticker and sent back to the vendor. Thesestickers provide information like Style, Color, Lot no, Tube Size, GSM, remarks andchecked by.

Yardages from accepted goods are sent for lab testing, which is done on few meters ofcloth by the testing department. The report is sent to the merchant for buyersapproval. Accordingly the fabric is sent for mending (washing, re dyeing etc.). Unlessthe buyer is satisfied with the fabric quality, the fabric will not be issued from the store.

STORAGE


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Trim store

Trims store houses all kind of accessories called trims. Trims like sewing thread areused to form stitches in fabric; buttons, laces etc. give the garment a complete look;


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while labels etc. give important information about the garment. Trim store also keepsstock of the stationary for the company and package material for production.

Unlike fabric, trims are very small in dimension so they need a very careful andsystematic storage system in order to prevent time and money loss. Non-availability of

trims on time may lead to suspension and delay in production. A well-managed trimstore must be able to cater to all the needs of the sampling and productiondepartments.

BASIC WORKFLOW

As per buyers need the merchandiser makes a trims card in which samples of all thetrims that are going to be associated with a particular style are attached. The trims cardother than trims contains information like quantity, color, style no, buyer, vendor etc. Italso states the size and content of the trims. This trim sheet is handed over to purchasedepartment by the merchandiser. Usually 5% more than required trims are procured asthey are subjected to defects, leading to rejection. Wastage of trims is also high.

The purchase department orders the trims of required specification and requiredquantity as specified in the trims card. The order is placed with either a local vendor orspecially imported. The buyer may also nominate the suppliers of the trims. Themerchandiser must get any locally procured trim approved by the buyer. Only after hisapproval is the order is placed.

Trim store receives the ordered trims and stores it. All the trims are in housed muchbefore the production commences because they do not come in specific lots like the

fabric. Depending upon the availability with the vendors, trims are sent. Imported trimsmostly come from Hong Kong and Singapore.

Checking and approval

Once the trims are in housed a random checking is done. Firstly, the sizes andspecifications of the trims are matched with the ones on the trims card. Then samplesof each type of trims are checked for quality. The quantity of the trims is also checked.Lab testing (like testing button pull strength, snap fastener testing and thread testingetc.) is also done if specified by the buyer. Then a physical checking of the whole lottakes place where each individual piece is physically checked for defects. Trims that do

not meet the acceptance level are rejected and separated from the rest. These rejectedpieces are sent back to the vendor for replacement. A checking report is alsomaintained for imported trims, giving details like style no, buyer, vendor, shortage,rejection and approved quantity etc. This report is sent to merchandiser and thepurchase department.


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After checking a trims swatch card is prepared. The swatch card carries all the trims fora particular style and information like the buyer, vendor, style no. etc. This swatch cardis sent to the merchandiser for approval. Merchandiser checks the trims with the one heordered and if it complies with his buyers requirements, he approves it and sends itback to trims store.

The trims are now packed and stored style wise. They are ready to be issued to theproduction department. Separate racks are allocated to different trims where they arefurther separated style-wise.

People from the sub units of trim store or the production department approach the trimstore as and when they require the trims. Trims store too have information that whichstyle will be produced where and which trims are required when and in how muchquantity. The trims are issued against a job card produced to them.

Sampling Section of Trim Store

Trim Store has its own sampling section also where trims are solely stored for samplingdepartment. Merchandiser and designers visits the trim store whenever they areworking on a new sample. Anything useful can be issued on an invoice. If the trimsrequired are not available, they file a request with the trim store to procure the requiredtrims of certain specifications in required quantity. Trim store sources the request andmakes it available for the merchandiser to help them in sampling process.

TYPES OF TRIMS

Labels and tags: Main label, size label, wash care label, country of origin label, looplabel, content label, time label, carton stickers, Unique Price Code tickets, License Hangtags, logo transfer etc.

Buttons and fasteners: Available in different sizes and material, Snap buttons, hooks,rivets, Velcro tape etc.

Sequins, dimonties and beads: Embroidery accessory in variety of shapes and colors

Threads: Sewing and embroidery threads.

Interlining and Fusing material, shoulder pad, paper foam etc

Tape, ribbons, laces: Shoulder tape, neck tape, mobilon tape, twill tape, satin laces,elastic ribbons, braids etc.

Embroidery patches, Transfer prints


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Needles, Zippers

Packing Material: Poly bags, hangers, adhesive tape, cartons, tissue paper, kimbles

Stationery like Cad Roll paper, alteration stickers, record books etc.

*Refer to Appendix F for the different types of Trims

Receive Trims cardfrom merchandiser

Purchase dept orderstrims and costing done

Receive from vendor

Check for generalquality and quantity

Physical checking of


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Fabric Library

Modelama has a huge collection of woven fabrics, which is displayed in its verysystematic library of fabrics.

Swatches of fabrics are arranged in the library, segregated on the basis of fabricstructure, season content and yarn count. These swatches have complete information


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Once the purchase order is received from the buyer and the pre-production samplefinalized, the production procedure starts. The merchant prepares the productionpackage file containing all the details regarding the production and shipment of theorder and hands it over to the PPC department. Here the work of a merchandiserceases and that of the PPC department begins. This package is studied thoroughly for

the production delivery of the goods for shipment. According to the target date the PPCdepartment shall schedule the entire production process.

Thus PPC has to actually schedule what and where an activity has to be done andwhen. It prepares a time table for all the activities like:

Fabric requisition Fabric status for issue Trims status for issue Fabric issue to cutting Cut order ready for issue on floor Embroidery program Wash program Assembly Finishing Packing Shipment

Correct estimation of the time that each activity would take is very important- this beingmost crucial in case of garment assembly. For this the PPC department sends theProduction package to the logistics and R&D department, which conducts a time study

for the style and give their estimated time of production. Accordingly the PPC allocatesdifferent styles to different units depending upon the order quantity and delivery date.From the data of the time study conducted by the Production targets are set for theproduction floor for each month, week, day and hour. This is an important decisionbecause only correct inputs will lead to desired output.

Control means not just setting targets but bringing the actual near to the standard. PPCmonitors every stage of production and it is responsible for deciding an appropriateaction that must be taken to change the plan whenever production is behind theplanned schedule. It makes sure that the required product is produced with minimumtotal cost and time for required delivery. For this PPC has a huge database of records

helps the controllers in following up and telling the what, when, and where of an action.


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apparel industry export overview

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