apparel glossary

APPAREL GLOSSARY

© QVC The Shopping Channel 2004 of 25

APPAREL GLOSSARYArm’s length The term used to indicate the visual inspection of a garment by

viewing the garment away from the body at a distance that is equalto the extended length of an average adult's arm, as a consumerwould.

3-pt. Measuretechnique

A method of measuring the high and low hip points of measure. Itinvolves measuring down a specified number of cm in 3 places andmeasuring across to "join" the 3 points of reference, which make aslight “V”.

A & B Zones Defect classification of obvious and non-obvious areas on apparelor accessories.

Abrasion mark An area damaged by friction. (Also Chafe mark)

AC or AcceptanceNumber

The maximum number of non-conforming items in a sample thatallows a lot to be accepted.

AcceptanceSampling

A process in which a representative number of products areevaluated in order to determine the acceptability of a given lot.

Acceptance testing Physical testing performed to decide if a material, product, or itscompounds meet acceptance criteria.

AH Armhole. A point of measure on a garment top.Antibacterial Helping to prevent or destroy the growth of bacteria.Antifungal Helping to prevent or destroy the growth of fungus.Antimicrobial Helping to prevent or destroy the growth of microbes.Appliqué A pattern or shape applied to the surface of another material for

decoration, frequently of a different type and shade of material.ApprovedDisposition

A status assigned to a sample that conforms to all QVC’sspecifications and quality requirements.

APS Apparel Product Specification Test Number, referring to the teststhat are required for product categories.

AQL or AcceptableQuality Level

The maximum percentage of non-conforming items at which theprocess average can be considered satisfactory.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Audit For purposes of QVC, an examination of product to measure itsadherence to an established set of specifications.

Back Tacking See Backstitch.Background fabric The foundation material on which appliqués are sewn.Backing A separate piece of material (either same or different fabric) that is

attached or sewn on the under side of a garment, generally usedfor reinforcement.

Backstitch A machine-stitch in reverse over previous stitches to lock thebeginning or end of a seam. Or, handstitching taken back over twoor more stitches and knotted.

Bad place A term convenient to use for defects that sometimes defydescription. Usually used to describe localised places where theweave has been severely disrupted.

Bar Tacking Stitching at stress points to secure areas such as pocket corners,seam ends and belt loops.

Barré A condition generally characterised by a somewhat patternedunevenness-of-appearance to the filling of woven fabric or to thecourse of circular knit fabric or widthways direction of a fabric.Some causes are uneven yarn, uneven tension geometricdifferences in the fabric structure and yarns having different dyeaffinities. (Also Chafe mark)

Batting The fibre used as the filler between two pieces of fabric to form alayer to provide warmth or dimension.

Batting integrity The ability of a textile filling material to resist distortion, migration orstructural change when subjected to multiple home launderings ordry cleanings.

Bearding Loose fibres of a batt that have worked their way out or migratedthrough the spaces between threads of woven cloth and come torest on the surface.

Bias Any angle that crosses the direction of the warp and weft of awoven fabric.

Bias, biased Where the courses are off square to the wales. (Also Skew)Bias, biased Where the filling yarns are off square to the warp ends. (Also

Skew)Birdseye The occasional and erratic appearance of tucked stitches contrary

to the design of the fabric.Bleeding A colourfastness defect in which the printed or dyed colour is

soluble in water or solvent. When bleeding colour spreads, it cancause streaks or spots when redeposit on the same fabric or othermaterials.

Bleeding The loss of colour from textile materials during wet processing as aresult of improper dyeing or the use of poor quality dyes.

Blotch An off-coloured area of any shape caused by grease or oil. (AlsoOil spot)

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Bounceback Consumer solicitation or material placed within or printed on aproduct or its packaging by the Vendor or manufacturer thatrequests or invites the customer to contact or respond to an entityother than QVC. Examples of bouncebacks are: productcatalogues, membership offers, offers for other products ortelephone numbers that the customer can call to order moreproducts. Also known as a "Vendor Bounceback".

Bow A defect resulting when filling yarns or knitting courses aredisplaced from a line perpendicular to the selvages and form abow, curve, curves, arc, or arcs across the width of the fabric.

Bow The greatest distance measured parallel to the selvages, betweena filling yarn and a straight line drawn between the points at whichthis yarn meets the selvages. Bow may be expressed directly incm or as a percentage of the width of the fabric at that point.

Broken colourpattern

A break in the continuity of design, caused by a mistake in thedrawing of the colour pattern in creeling.

Broken colourpattern

A break in the continuity of design, caused either by a mistake inthe drawing of the colour pattern through the loom harness, orimproper resetting of the filling pattern chain after servicing theloom for a filling break.

Broken end Where a warp yarn has ruptured and been repaired – oftencharacterised by the broken end being woven into the fabriccreating a void in the warp direction.

Broken filament Breaks in one or more filaments. (Also Strip back, Skin back)

Broken pick Where a broken or cut filling yarn leaves a pick missing for aportion of the width of the fabric.

Broken Pick Yarn broken in a weft direction in woven fabric.

Bronzing A defect in heavy shades where the surface has a metallic orbronze appearance or sheen. This may be caused by excessdyestuff, rapid drying or oxidation. The surface of dye pastes orsolutions may sometimes bronze on the surface.

Bruise A condition where the yarn while being woven, or the fabric afterbeing woven, has been scuffed so as to disorient the fibres andresult in a fuzzy appearance. An area that has been subjected toimpact or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.(Also Pressure mark) (See Temple bruise)

Burl mark A distortion resulting from some superfluous material such as thickslub, waste, or wild yarn being removed with a burling tool.

Bursting Strength The force or pressure required to rupture a textile by distending itwith a force that is applied at right angles to the plane of the fabric.

Buttonhole selvage A selvage defect caused by excessive tension build-up in theshuttle just before filling change. This tension tends to restrict theselvage yarns from proper shedding and interlacing, resulting in adefect resembling a buttonhole.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Care Instructions A series of directions that describe practices to properly refurbish aproduct without adversely affecting it.

Care Label A tag that gives instructions for cleaning and finishing a textileproduct which should remain legible through the life of the garment,even after laundering.

Care Symbols A set of marks and graphics established by the FTC which provideinstructions for refurbishing apparel.

CB Centre Back. A point of measure on a garment.CF Centre Front. A point of measure on a garment.Chafed yarn Yarn that has been scuffed by abrasion, disorienting the fibres and

leaving the yarn fuzzy. This will affect the dyeability and oftenresult in warp streaks or filling bands.

Charge back See Vendor Chargeback.Chatter A printing defect caused by a vibrating doctor blade. This causes

light and dark streaks running across the fabric. It may also belight and dark bands caused by a vibrating squeegee in screen-printing.

Chipboard Packaging material that is used as an insert to support foldedgarments in transit.

Chopped filling Unevenness in the filling direction characterised by a distinct ormeasured pattern resulting from the eccentric behaviour of adrafting roll.

CIR Circumference. In a garment, the measurement of a circular areasuch as chest or bottom openings.

Clean Finished A sewing construction method of finishing a seam or hem toprevent fraying or provide a "finished" appearance. Typical cleanfinishes include: double turn, overlock, french seam, and felled.

Clip mark An undyed place resulting from a metal clip being used on the edgeof a fabric to prevent or correct a selvage turndown during dyeing.

Clouding A scum over a printed area caused by poor cleaning by the doctorblade. This gives a cloudy or mottled appearance.

Coarse end An end whose diameter is noticeably greater than that normal tothe fabric.

Coarse pick A pick of filling whose diameter is noticeably greater than thatnormal to the fabric.

Coarse yarn A yarn whose diameter is noticeably greater than that normal to thefabric.

Cockled fabric Crinkled, shrivelled or ridgy fabric that will not lie flat on the cuttingtable. May be caused by irregular twist in the yarns, uneventension during knitting or varying degrees of reaction by the yarnswithin the fabric to the finishing processes.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Cockled yarn A yarn in which some fibres appear wild or tightly curled anddisoriented. This is the result of some fibres being too long for draftroll settings so that the succeeding roll grips the fibre before thepreceding roll releases it, causing the fibre to snap and curl.Cockled yarn often appears as tiny slubs in the fabric.

Cockles Irregular thick, uneven lumps.Colourfastness A fabric's ability to resist fading when exposed to light, perspiration

or washing. QVC follows AATCC standards for colourfastness.Colour bleeding The loss of colour from a dyed fabric when immersed in water, dry-

cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium, with consequentcolouring of the liquid medium.

Colour Code A three-digit field in a QVC item number that represents a colourname. (See also "SKU").

Colour fly Fibres of a different colour appearing in a yarn or fabric caused byweaving waste fibres into the yarn or fabric. (Also Flyer, Loom fly)

Colour Fly Yarn Foreign fibres of a different colour that are woven into the fabricand considered contamination.

Colour misdraw The drawing of coloured yarns through the guide bars contrary tothe pattern design.

Colour misdraw The drawing of coloured yarns through the loom harness contraryto the colour patterns and/or weave design.

Colour out When the colour paste runs low in the reservoir resulting in blankskips in the print pattern.

Colour smear When the colour is smeared, distorting the pattern.Colour Stain The undesirable discoloration of a colour on a fabric.Colour staining The undesired pickup of colour by a fabric: (1) When immersed in

water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium, that containsdyestuffs or colouring material not intended for colouring the fabric;or (2) by direct contact with other dyed material from which colouris transferred by bleeding or sublimation.

CommercialStandards

The D.T.I issues Commercial Standards that are not laws but areimportant as accepted voluntary benchmarks of performance andquality by the industry. These standards are usually referred to bynumber and spell out test procedures and minimum performanceguidelines.

Compactor crease Hardset creases resulting from the introduction of wrinkled fabricinto the shrinkage control and stabilisation process.

Construction The methods by which a garment is sewn together.

Corrugation A washboard effect resulting from a malfunctioning sanforizerblanket. (Also Sanforize corrugation)

Country of Origin The geographical location where a product was mainly produced orconstructed.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Cover A term used to describe the face of a fabric in relation to theamount of warp of filling-show, prominence of design, or otherdesired characteristic achievable by varying the influence of one orthe other of the two yarn systems.

Crack mark An open place causing a streak of variable length approximatelyparallel to the length or width. (Also Open place, Thin spot)

Crease A fabric defect evidenced by a break, line or mark [generallycaused by a sharp fold]. (Also Mill wrinkle)

Crease streak The visual after-effect of a crease occurring during the dyeing orfinishing process.

Crimp The waviness of textile material.Crocking A defect or property of dyed or printed material in which the dye will

transfer to a white fabric when the two are rubbed together either ina wet or dry state. (Also Rubbing fastness)

Crocking The direct colour transfer from a coloured fabric to another surfaceby abrasive action. The Fabric Industry has set standards andtests to measure crocking.

Crowsfeet Fine wrinkles of varying degrees of intensity, size and shape. (Mayoccur during wet processing and on finished goods after folding.)

CSA Consume Safety Agency. Independent Government regulatoryagencies that help keep families safe by reducing the risk of injuryor death from consumer products.

Curled selvage A selvage edge which is curled. (Also Folded selvage)Cut selvage Cuts or breaks that occur in the selvage only. (Also Broken

selvage, Damaged selvage)Damaged The condition of a fabric which renders it unusable for its intended

use.Dead cotton A small neap of cotton fibres which are gathered on the surface of

the fabric and which is different in colour from the surroundingfabric.

Decating mark A crease mark or impression extending across the cloth near thebeginning or end of a piece due to the thickness of the fabric leaderseam. (Also Apron mark, Leader mark)

Defect Any deviation in the normal appearance, structure or function of aproduct which would likely result in a substandard product, notsaleable as first quality.

Denier A direct yarn count system expressed as the mass in grams per9000 meters.

Density The mass per unit.DifferentialShrinkage

The change in the size of a garment from its original size beforelaundering compared to after it has been laundered.

DimensionalChange

The change in length or width of a fabric after a specified condition,such as washing.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


DimensionalStability

The ability of a fabric to retain its shape and size after wear,washing, and dry cleaning. This stability is imparted to a fabric bychemical treatment, mechanical means, construction, or fibreblends.

Discoloration A change from the intentional original colour of the fabric.Disposition The status assigned by QVC Quality Assurance to a QVC sample,

indicating the results of the evaluation and the status of theproduct. There are four possible dispositions that a sample canreceive: Approved (or Accepted), Conditional, Rejected, or Hold.

Doctor streak A wavy white or coloured streak in the warp (lengthways) directionof printed cloth caused by a damaged doctor blade.

Double bow Two fabric bows, arcing in the same direction, as in a flattened Mor W depending on the viewing angle.

Double end Two ends where only one is called for by the design of the fabric.Double hooked bow One hooked bow at each side of the fabric that arc in opposite

directions.Double pick Two picks in a single shed where only one is called for by the

design of the fabric.Double reverse bow Two fabric bows arcing in opposite directions.Doubling A filling yarn twice the normal size due to two ends of roving

running together into a single end of spinning. The sameoccurrence in warp yarn would result in a coarse end.

Dragging end An end being knit under erratic tension due to its being entangledand/or trapped on the warp beam.

Drawback A defect resulting from excessive tension gradually applied to anumber of warp yarns by some abnormal restriction; when therestriction is removed, the excess slack is woven gradually into thefabric. Characterised by tight and slack place. (Also Hitch-back)

Drop Test A package integrity test performed by QVC QA.Dropped pick This is the result of the filling insertion mechanism on a shuttleless

loom not holding and releasing the filling yarn too soon. Thisallows the yarn to snap into the body, leaving a missing pickpartway across the width of the fabric. The released pick is thenwoven in to fabric in a somewhat tangled mass.

Dropped stitch Where a stitch has not formed due to malfunction of a needle.(See Run)

Dry streak Streaks related to dyestuff, its application to, or absorption by thefabric.

Dubner A 14 line, 15 character brief description/title of a product which isused for the graphics which appear on-air for customer reference.

Durable Press The ability of the garment to retain the original shape andappearance after laundering or dry cleaning.

Dustproof A product that is constructed so that when properly closed, affixed,or applied, dust cannot penetrate the intended protected area.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Dyestain An area of unintended discoloration due to uneven absorption of acolorant.

End out A void caused by a missing warp yarn. (Also Missing end)End Out A void caused by a missing warp yarn.Extended Term indicating the fully stretched state of an elastic area on a

garment.

Fabric Defects See Fabric DefectFabric WeightConversion Table

Conversion of fabric weight in ounces per square yard to fabricweight in grams per square meter.

Face Side The side of a material intended to be shown outside while wearing.Fashion Day A specific day on QVC in which 24 hours of air time are devoted to

Apparel and Accessory products. Generally there are 4 majorFashion Days a year on QVC.

Fibre Content The percentage of fibres which make up a fabric, finished garmentor accessory.

Filament Yarn Man-made yarn made of continuous filaments.Filling band A visually perceptible band across the width of the fabric directly

attributable to a difference in the chemical or physicalcharacteristics of the filling.

Filling bar A visual defect across the width, which contains a limited numberof picks of different appearance than normal.

Filling floats Picks of filling extending unbound over or under warp ends withwhich they should have been interlaced. (See Shed-splitting,Undershots and Overshots)

Filling Yarn A yarn used as the weft yarn of a woven fabric. See weft.Fine end An end whose diameter is noticeably smaller than that normal to

the fabric. (Also Light end, Thin end)Fine pick A pick of filling whose diameter is noticeably smaller than that

normal to the fabric.Fine yarn A yarn whose diameter is noticeably smaller than that normal to the

fabric, usually resulting in finelined cracks in the course orwidthways direction.

Finger mark An irregular spot showing variation in picks per cm for a limitedwidth.

Finished fabricweight

Weight per unit area expressed in grams per square metre orounces per square yard; grams per linear (running) metre orounces per linear (running) yard. Flannel: Weight must representfabric after dyeing, printing and brushing.

Finished ProductAudit

An inspection of produced goods at the time of receipt at a QVCdistribution centre.

Finishing bar An uneven appearance across the entire fabric width.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


First Piece Sample For Apparel, referred to as a Sealing or Production Sample. Asingle product unit(s) that the manufacturer sends to QVCMerchandising to be submitted to QVC QA. QA tests the product.Once the product sample is approved, the manufacturer may sendthe entire shipment to a QVC warehouse.

Fit Comments Written comments recorded by a QVC QA Technician on a SampleWorksheet. Any construction, fit, and spec changes for an apparelor accessory item are listed on these sheets.

Fit Sample A sample submitted to Apparel QA for spec and constructionevaluation prior to production.

Fit SampleWorksheet

The QVC form on which all fit sample information is documentedfor a style, such as specs, construction, Country of Origin,disposition, date, fit #, label, and fit comments. This worksheet issubmitted by the Vendor to QVC QA along with the fit sample.

Flagging (sewnseams)

A mode of failure evidenced by slippage of one or more yarnsentirely out of the original seam.

Flame resistance The property of a material whereby flaming combustion isprevented, terminated, or inhibited following application of a flamingor non-flaming source of ignition, with or without subsequentremoval of the ignition source.

Flame resistant Having flame resistance as defined in BS EN ISO 6940 / 6941Flame retardant This term should not be used as an adjective except in the terms

"flame-retardant-treated" and "flame-retardant treatment" asdefined by BSI

Flammability The characteristic of a material after subjected to burning.Flat A misdraw in a plain weave resulting in two ends weaving as one

and opposing two other ends weaving as one.Float A thread extending unbound over or under threads of the opposite

yarn system with which it should have been interlace. (See Warpfloat, Filling float and Skip stitch)

Foreign fibre Fibre, other than that common to a fabric, existing ascontamination; it may be confined to a single yarn or be distributedrandomly.

Foreign matter Contamination by some substance other than fibre.Frosting The colour change in some portion of a fabric or garment due to

localised abrasive action, resulting in a whitish look.Fusible Interlining An interlining that has been specially treated so that it adheres to

other materials when heat and pressure are applied.Fuzz ball Loose and frayed fibres that have formed into a ball and have then

been woven or knitted into the fabric. (Also Lint ball, Snowball, Softwarp)

Fuzzy Characterised by a hairy appearance due to protruding brokenfibres or filaments. (Also Hairy)

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Gout Foreign matter trapped in a fabric by accident, usually lint or waste.(This defect differs from slubs in that slubs generally aresymmetrical in shape while gouts appear as undrafted lumps.)

Grade Rules A set of guidelines that show the incremental measurementdifferences between apparel sizes.

Graded Specs The set of measurements that a Vendor follows for a productionrun. An apparel vendor calculates the measurements of all sizes ina production line by entering the base size information andfollowing the Grade Rules.

Grading The process of producing different sizes of pattern from a masterpattern.

Gray Scale See International Gray Scale.Grey goods An unfinished fabric which has not received preparation, dyeing, or

finishing treatment after being having been produced. (Also knownas greige goods, gray, grey, in the greige, loom state.)

Growth An increase in one or more dimensions of an object or a material.Halo A defect in printed fabrics where part of one colour in the design

may be outlined by another colour caused by a chemical interactionof two adjacent colours; a third colour is produced at the line ofcontact. Or a light place encircling a defect resulting from dyemigration to the defect during drying.

Hand The tactile qualities of a fabric, e.g., softness, firmness, elasticity,fineness, resilience, and other qualities perceived by touch.

Hang pick A pick of filling hanging for a split second on a warp knot or otherprotrusion until freed by the stroke of the reed. This results in ashort loop of filling appearing on the face of the fabric. Or atriangular-shaped hole in the fabric. (Also Loopy filling or Hangshot)

Hang thread A thread left hanging on the face of a fabric. The most commoncause is the failure of a weaver to clip the excess yarn afterrepairing a broken end and/or the cloth inspector’s failure toremove the excess yarn.

Hangtag A printed label attached to the outside of a garment to provideadditional information to the consumer.

Hard size A place in a fabric characterised by a harsh, stiff hand and cloudy,uneven appearance. This is most common in mill-finished yarn-dyes and is the result of a slasher stop that allows excessiveamounts of sizing material to harden onto the yarn. This generallyappears in bands across the width of the fabric. (Also Starch lump)

Harness balk An isolated failure of a loom harness to move in its prescribedsequence, causing a pick of filling to float either to the face of backof the fabric.

Harness breakdown A place where a harness ceases to function, resulting in the endsdrawn through that harness floating either to the face of back of thefabric.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Harness misdraw Where one or more ends are drawn through the harness contraryto the design of the weave.

Hold Disposition The status assigned to a sample, indicating that a product hasfailed to meet QVC requirements that are related to process oradministrative issues, or may still be in the process of evaluation.The Vendor is not permitted to ship while a Production Sample is inHold status.

Hole An imperfection where one or more yarns are sufficiently damagedto create an aperture.

Hole An unintentional opening in a fabric caused by any broken yarns.Hook and LoopClosure

Generic term for Velcro®. A type of fastener which is made up oftwo strips; one side is constructed of loops and one side isconstructed of tiny “hooks” which “stick” together and must bepulled apart to be separated.

Hooked bow A fabric condition in which the filling or course yarns are in theproper position for most of the fabric width but are pulled out ofalignment at one side of the fabric.

How to Measure(codes)

A reference number and corresponding definition of a Point ofMeasure (a specific location of an apparel or accessory item for ameasurement to be taken).

HPS High Point Shoulder. A reference point indicating the highest pointof a garment top at the neckline, edge or seam of the shoulder.

Imperfection A departure of a quality characteristic from its intended level orstate.

Impression Uneven surface caused by pressure, usually around areas of extrathickness, such as pockets and seams.

Initial DevelopmentSpec

Preliminary garment measurements provided to a Vendor duringthe Product Development stage in order to create a first FitSample.

Inspection The process of measuring, examining, testing, gauging orotherwise comparing a characteristic or property of a material orfinished item with applicable requirements.

Inspection Criteria The standards to which the finished product will be evaluatedagainst.

Inspection ServiceProvider

(ISP). A qualified third party who, for a fee, will inspect finishedgoods, work in progress, or a specific facility for compliance withQVC requirements.

Interlining A piece of fabric placed between the shell and lining of a garmentfor one or more of the following reasons:To produce a stiffening effectand maintain the garment shape orwarmthTo add or maintain and/or bulkTo add strength

APPAREL GLOSSARY


International GrayScale

A scale distributed through BSI that is used as a comparisonstandard to rate degrees of change in shading from 5 (negligible orno change) to 1 (severe change). The term is sometimes appliedto any scale of quality in which 5 is excellent and 1 is poor.

Item Number See SKN.ITS Intertek Testing Service. An approved lab from which QVC will

receive fabric and garment testing and inspection reports based onQVC Inspection Criteria.

Jerk-In An extra piece of filling yarn jerked by the shuttle into the fabricalong with a regular pick of filling and extending only part of theway across the cloth. On conventional looms they generally areconfined to the battery side, the most common cause being thefailure of the thread-holding mechanism to hold the filling from theout-going bobbin long enough for the temple thread cutter to cutthe yarn after a filling change. (Also Lash-in, Pull-in)

Kinky filling A place in a fabric where a pick of filling has been given enoughslack to twist on itself for a short distance forming a loop. Causesare: shuttle not boxing properly, a malfunction filling fork, too muchpower on the picker stick, excessive twist in yarn, inadequatesetting of filling twist, etc. (Also Curl, Kinky thread, Looped yarn,Snarl)

Knitted Fabric A fabric constructed by interlooping one or more ends of yarn.Knot A place where two ends of yarn have been tied together.Knot Two or more ends of yarn tied together.Laminated Fabric Two pieces of fabric adhered to each other by heat setting or other

processes.Laundering A process of restoring soiled articles to a usable condition.Let-off mark A corrugated (thick and thin) defect pattern distributed across the

fabric width.Ligne Unit of measure for buttons and ribbons, equal to 0.635 mm. (i.e.,

1/40 in.).Lining Fabric A piece of fabric used to cover the inner part of a garment, usually

for purposes of warmth, appearance or movement.Linking The process in which loops of two knitted garment parts are run

onto a series of regularly spaced points and then joined by chainstitches, usually by a linking machine.

Long Description Information about a product, detailing the features and benefits.Used by Show Hosts as a selling tool and Order Entryrepresentatives to ensure the correct item is being ordered andeducate the consumer. To include: Country of Origin, FibreContents, styling and construction.

Long knot Knots which have loose ends from 3 to 25 mm in length.Long slug A slug which exceeds 10mm in length of which is very much larger

in diameter than the yarn.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Loom Bar A change in shade across the width of a fabric, resulting from abuild-up of tension in the shuttle before a filling change. This ismost common on yarn-dyed fabrics.

Loom fly Waste fibres created during weaving that are woven into the fabric.(Also Flyer, Colour fly)

Loom waste A place in a fabric where accumulated waste off the loom hasfounds its way into the fabric either by air current or loom shuttle.

Loopy filling A pick of filling hanging for a split second on a warp knot or otherprotrusion until freed by the stroke of the reed. This results in ashort loop of filling appearing on the face of the fabric. (Also hangpick)

Loopy selvage An improperly woven selvage of uneven width or a selvagecontaining irregular filling loops extending beyond the outsideedges. (Also Beaded selvage, Corded selvage, Loopy edge,Rough selvage)

Loose course A row of loops in the widthways direction that are larger, looser, orlonger than the stitches in the main body of the fabric, due to lackof correct tension on the yarn.

Lot The part of a consignment or shipment consisting of material fromone production lot. A production lot should be produced undercontrolled, consistent conditions.

Lycra® A brand name for the generic fibre spandex that has beenregistered with the BSI. Approval must be obtained from DuPontbefore using this term.

Machine stop A term used to describe the visible evidence of a fabric havingbeen stopped in some machine during the dyeing and finishingprocess. Generally it appears as glaring shade changes across thewidth of the fabric.

Major Defect QVC Specific: Any defect or combination of defects which:Is a deviation from buyer's specificationsIs a deviation from purchase order specificationsAffects serviceability or saleabilityRenders the merchandise second qualityIs a deviation from sample submitted to Quality AssuranceResults in a less than reasonable expection of use

Mark off A defect in finished fabrics in which the fabric shows a distinctchange where it is rubbed or scratched lightly with the finger nail orother item which does not transfer colour to the fabric.

Mat-up A place where the warp yarns have become entangled so as todisrupt the proper interlacing of warp and filling. This can becaused by a loom failing to stop when an end breaks, or theintroduction of a piece of wild yarn from some other source. Mat-ups may range in severity from minor to very damaging.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Minor Defect A defect that is not likely to reduce the saleability, desirability orusability of the product from its intended purpose, but is adeparture from established standards. A defect which does notrender the merchandise second quality.

Misdraw – Colour The drawing of coloured yarns through the guide bars contrary tothe pattern design.

Misdraw – Colour The drawing of coloured yarns through the loom harness contraryto the colour pattern and/or weave design.

Misdraw – Harness Where one or more ends are drawn through the harness contraryto the design of the weave.

Misdraw – Reed Where one or more ends are drawn through the reed contrary tothe design of the weave.

Mispick Where the weave design is broken by the absence of a pick offilling. (Also Wrong pick)

Misprint Colours or patterns, or both, either missed, or partially missed,smeared, smudged, or incorrectly positioned relative to each other.

Misregister Colours or patterns not correctly positioned.Missed loop (Knitting) A length or lengths of yarn not received by a needle -

Connecting two loops of the same course that are not in adjacentwales.

Missing yarn The absence of a yarn, often resulting from a machine continuingto run after a yarn breaks.

Miss-selection Where the design is corrupted by the random dropping of stitches.This can result from sticking jacks or the erratic behaviour of a yarnfeed.

Mixed end A warp yarn differing from that normally being used in the fabric.Mixed filling A visible widthways band resulting from filling that differs from that

normal to the fabric.Mixed yarn Yarn that is alien to a fabric because of its peculiar chemical or

physical characteristics.Monofilament thread Continuous filament thread. QVC does not accept monofilament

thread in the construction of garments or sewing of labels.Mottled A term used to describe a blotchy or spotty appearance results

from the uneven application of colour to a fabric, or the unevenacceptance of colour by a fabric.

Muslin A plain-woven cotton fabric of light/medium weight. Unbleachedmuslin is naturally off-white and has small brown flecks. Bleachedmuslin is white.

Mussiness Surface distortion in a fabric characterised by objectionableunevenness due to many minor deformations.

Needle Damage The partial or complete yarn severance or fibre fusing caused by aneedle passing through a fabric during sewing.

Needle line A vertical crack resulting from a bent needle. The design is intactbut the uniform placement of wales is distorted.

Neap A tightly tangled knot-like mass of unorganised fibres.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Non-conforming Failing to satisfy the requirements of the applicable specification(s).Non-woven fabric A textile structure produced by bonding or interlocking of fibres, or

both, accomplished by mechanical, chemical, thermal, or solventmeans and combinations thereof.

Offensive Something that is disagreeable to a person's various senses (suchas smell) and/or causes displeasure or physical discomfort.

Off-grain Fabric which does not follow the straight direction of the warp andweft yarns.

Open reed A defect resulting from a bent reed wire characterised by a fine-lined thin place in the warp direction. (Also reed mark)

Out of register Pattern distortion due to the lack of synchronisation of the printingrolls.

Overshot A pick of filling deflected from its normal path through the shed andextending unbound over warp ends with which it should haveinterlaced

Patchwork A network of small pieces of fabric sewn together to form a largerpiece.

Pattern defect The formation of stitches or the insertion of colour contrary to thedesign of the fabric, resulting from a machine malfunction or theincorrect placement of coloured yarn in the creel.

Pattern defect The formation of interlaces or the insertion of colour contrary to thedesign of the fabric, resulting from a machine malfunction or theincorrect placement of coloured yarn in the harness of the loom.

Permanent crease Fabric defect consisting of a line or mark caused by a sharp fold.Pick-out mark A filling wise band or bar characterised by a chafed or fuzzy

appearance.Piecing A thick place in a spun yarn caused by poor splicing.Pilling Formation of small balls of fibres called "pills" on the surface of a

cloth. Caused by abrasion in wear.Pills Bunches or balls of tangled fibres, which are held to the surface of

a fabric by one or more fibres.Pin holes These are holes common to a fabric run over a pin-tenter and

become a defect when they venture too far in from the selvage andenlarge or tear.

Pin mark A series of holes near the edge parallel with the lengthwaysdirection of a fabric caused by the holding device on a pin tenterframe.

Plied Yarn Two or more single yarns twisted together into one yarn.Plus Refers to QVC women's apparel. Generally sizes 1XL-3XL or 18-

28, and average height.

Point of Measure A specified location of an apparel or accessory item where ameasurement should be taken. Each Point of Measure has a "Howto Measure" reference code and corresponding definition.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Polybag The outer protective plastic bag which each saleable unit of apparelor accessory is required to be in. Garment may be folded flat or ona hanger inside the polybag. Polybag must have bar code andSKU labelling properly adhered.

Press-off A condition in which the yarn fails to knit and either the fabric fallsoff the needles or the design is distorted or incomplete.

Production Lot Production made from the same nominal raw material underessentially the same conditions during a continuous time frame anddesigned to meet the same specifications.

Production Sample A term used by the Apparel Quality Assurance department todescribe the garments coming off of the initial production run of astyle. It is the equivalent of a First Piece Sample on stock items.

Professional Care Overall cleaning and maintenance procedures requiring theservices of a person specially trained or skilled.

Proportion Comparative relation between sizes.PSFGA Pre-shipment Finished Goods Audit. A QVC-arranged inspection

which takes place prior to shipping of an order to QVC or thecustomer, generally completed by a QVC-elected third party.

Pucker A warpwise distortion resulting from uneven wetting-out duringsanforization, generally due to faulty spray heads. It may appearas a wavy selvage or affect any other area of the fabric. (AlsoSanforize pucker)

Puckering A wavy, three-dimensional effect typified by closely spacedwrinkles, on either the face fabric, or the backing fabric, or both.Considered a major or minor defect depending on the degree ofseverity.

Purchase Order A legal agreement between two parties (Vendor and QVC), whichestablishes all requirements for the agreement to take place.

QA (QualityAssurance)

For QVC purposes, the QA department that establishes andmonitors standards, evaluates all samples and specifications, anddetermines the disposition of those samples, based in London.

QA Apparel ManualAcknowledgementLetter

A form which all Apparel and Accessory Vendors must sign anddate, acknowledging that they have read and understood and willcomply with all QVC requirements stated in the QA ApparelManual.

QC (Quality Control) For QVC purposes, the Quality department located at QVC inKnowsley that inspects finished goods upon receipt at thewarehouse based on criteria provided by QA.

QVC ConstructionRequirements

QVC's minimum standards for the sewing of apparel goods.

QVC FitRequirements

QVC's standards for garment measurements and construction.

QVC ManufacturingGuidelines

QVC's standards for garment construction, labelling and applicablelaws.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


QVC PerformanceSpecifications

QVC's minimum standards for fabric and apparel characteristicsand testing.

Random Sampling The process of selecting units for a sample size "N" within aproduction lot such that all combinations of "N" units underconsideration have an equal chance of being selected as part ofthe sample.

Raw Edges Unfinished seams in the construction of a garment which are proneto unravelling.

Reed mark A defect resulting from a bent reed wire, characterised by a fine-lined thin place, either continuous or at intervals, in the warpdirection. (Also Open reed)

Reed misdraw Where one or more ends are drawn through the reed contrary todesign.

Reed streak A warpwise defect attributable to a bad reed. It may appear aslight and heavy streaks due to uneven placement of the yarn, or itmay scuff the yarn varying its affinity for dye.

Reedy A condition characterised by open streaks following the pattern ofthe reed wires. This can be the result of a too-coarse reed, wrongreed-draw arrangement or improper setting of the loom.

Reference Sample A finished product or portion of material used to represent bulkproduction in testing and inspections. For Apparel, this is generallya Production Sample.

REJ or RejectionNumber

The minimum number of non-conforming items in a sample thatrequires the lot to be rejected.

Rejected Disposition The status assigned to a sample/lot, indicating that a product doesnot conform to QVC requirements and that the deficiencies are of asevere nature. The Vendor is not permitted to ship while aProduction Sample is in rejected status.

Relaxed The term that refers to a part of a garment that is free from tension,stresses or distortion.

Re-order When an order is placed for an item/style that has been previouslyordered by QVC. All re-orders for Apparel must be exactly thesame as the initial order for styling, construction, fabrication,Country of Origin, etc.

Resistance toSlippage

The force required to separate the seam to a specified point ofmeasure, creating an opening.

Reversible A garment that can be worn either side out/exposed.Ring A narrow visually different horizontal band.Rope mark A long irregularly shifting longitudinal mechanically inducted streak.Rough A descriptive term for a fabric surface which has the feel of

sandpaper. Also a term used to describe a rough or crinkledappearance resulting from over-sanforization.

RoutineMaintenance

Periodic care or cleaning to remove particulate soil and dust.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


RTV Return to Vendor. When QVC ships the product back to themanufacturer. The Vendor is charged for the cost of the items.Stock is returned to the Vendor when product is rejected by QualityAssurance or via the stock balancing procedure, whereby QVCarranges with the Vendor to return a percentage of unsoldinventory, provided that it is purchased from the vendor in thefuture.

Run A vertical line of unformed stitches resulting from a broken needleor jack. (See dropped stitch) (Also ladder)

Sample Worksheet See Fit Sample Worksheet.Sampling plan The method used to select items which are representative of the

quality of a production lot to be inspected.Sampling plan result The number obtained for use in judging the acceptability of a lot

when applying a sampling plan.

Sampling unit An identifiable discrete unit that is taken as part of a sample.Sanforizecorrugation

A washboard effect resulting from a malfunctioning sanforizerblanket.

Sanforize pucker A warpwise distortion resulting from uneven wetting-out duringsanforization, generally due to faulty spray heads. It may appearas a wavy selvage or affect any other area of the fabric. (AlsoPucker)

Sanforize roughness A term used to describe a rough or crinkled appearance resultingfrom over-sanforization.

Sanforizing mark A crimped, rippled, wavy, pebbled, or cockled place showingdistortion of the texture. (Also Blanket mark)

Scalloped selvage An abrupt, narrow indentation in the selvage. (Also Misclip)Scrimp A defect resulting from a fabric being printed in a folded or creased

condition so that the pattern is destroyed when the fold or crease isopened or stretched out.

ScuffResistant/ScratchResistant

For leather goods, the ability of a material to display a meaningfulor significant resistance to wear and abrasion when subjected tospecified conditions.

Scuffproof/Scratchproof

For leather goods, the ability of a material to resist indications ofobvious abrasion or wear when subjected to specified conditions.

Seam A line where two or more fabrics are joined, usually by stitching.Seam Allowance The measurement of the margin between the cut edge of the

garment and the seam stitching line.

Seam impression The back-greige or cushion-fabric seam imprints on the fabric.Seam Impression The imprint of a seam made under pressure.Seam mark A pressure mark caused by the thickness of the seam being

pressed against the cloth.Seam Slippage The partial or complete loss of seam integrity due to yarn slippage

parallel to or adjacent to the stitch line.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Secondhand Filling An industry product which contains any filling material which hasbeen previously used. It should not be offered for sale unless aclear and conspicuous disclosure of that fact is made on the labeland in all advertising and invoices relating to such product.

Section mark Warp bands of different colour, texture, or lustre.Selvage The narrow edge portion of woven fabric that runs parallel to the

warp. It is made with stronger yarns in a tighter construction thanthe body of the fabric to prevent ravelling. (Also known asselvage.)

Selvage – Beaded A term used to describe a selvage that has a concentration of endsdrawn together forming a cord or bead.

Selvage – Scalloped An unevenness characterised by a regularity of ins and outs. Thiscan be the result of a tenter frame pulling too tight leavingindentations between the clips, or from tension build-up in theshuttle during weaving, resulting in an indentation at each bobbinchange.

Selvage – Slack orwavy

The condition where the edge of a fabric is longer than the centre,causing it to wave or pucker when laid on the cutting table.

Selvage – Tight The condition where the selvages of a fabric are shorter than thecentre, causing the centre to lie in waves on the cutting table.

Selvage – Torn Generally descriptive of the condition where a selvage is tornrepeatedly by a tenter frame while attempting to attain anexcessive width. Also, any place where a selvage is torn.

Selvage – Turndown A place where a selvage folds on itself and runs through squeezerolls setting the fold. Also, where a selvage is folded under or overduring any roll-up operation.

Selvage mark A lengthwise crease mark along the selvage caused by an edgebeing folded or doubled.

Selvedge The narrow portion of woven fabric that runs parallel to the warp. Itis woven more tightly than the body of the fabric to preventravelling. (Also know as selvage).

Set mark A stop mark resulting from a prolonged loom shutdown.Shade bar A distinct shade change of short duration across the width of the

fabric. It may be attributable to a change in the character of thefilling or a machine stop somewhere in the preparation, dyeing orfinishing processes.

Shade change A term used to describe a general change in shade, either abruptor gradual, that is not confined to, or cannot be described as,shade-bars.

Shade range A series of colour variations from a specified colour. Not all colourvariances within a shade range are acceptable.

Shaded – Cross Where there is a noticeable shade difference from one side of afabric to the other.

Shaded – Side tocorner

Where there is a noticeable shade difference from the side of afabric to the centre.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Shed-splitting A term used to describe multiple yarn floats resulting from improperharness setting. The harness not being properly set, the shuttlesplits the shed, passing over and/or under ends contrary to thedesign of the weave.

Shier Fine fillingwise cracks randomly distributed across the fabric width.(Also Shire)

Shiner A defect in which streaks have much higher lustre than normal.Example: A short streak, caused by a lustrous section of filamentyarn.

Shrinkage A decrease in one or more dimensions of an object or material afterbeing subjected to the care instruction.

Shuttle mark A fine line parallel to the filling, caused by damage to a group ofwarp yarns from abrasion by the shuttle. (Also box marks)

Single sampling A sampling plan for which the decision to accept or reject a lot isbased on a single sampling of the lot.

Singling A single yarn appearing in the plied-yarn fabric.Size range The multiple sizes in which a garment is produced.Sizing A generic term for compounds applied to yarn or fabric which aid in

the manufacturing process and to improve smoothness, abrasionresistance, stiffness, strength, weight, or lustre.

Skewness, skew A fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses areangularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side ofthe fabric.

Skip stitch The wrong formation of the knit design, characterised by a yarnfloating intermittently for short distances over yarns with which isshould have been interlooped. This results from a malfunctionneedle or jack.

SKN The Stock Keeping Number. Also referred to as the Item Number,inventory number, or component number. The QVC numberbegins with a character followed by numbers, and is up to sevencharacters long. The letter relates to the type of product and thenumeric portion is system-assigned when the merchant creates anew item.

SKU The Stock Keeping Unit is the item number, plus its colour and sizecode. It is composed of the SKN and colour and/or size codes. Itmay be up to 13 characters -- SKN + colour code + size code.

Slack end A warp yarn woven under insufficient tension. (Also Slack thread,Slack Warp)

Slack end The result of a loose of broken end puckering as it is graduallywoven into a fabric.

Slack warp A term used to describe a fabric woven with less than requiredtension. Extremes result in an overall crimped or cockledappearance and a stretchy, unstable fabric.

Slam-off A distortion due to the entrapment of the filling carrier in the shed.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Sloughed filling A defect caused by extra winds of filling slipping from the bobbinand being woven into the fabric. This is usually the result of softbobbins wound with insufficient tension or too much power on thepicker stick of the loom.

Slough-off A defect caused by several coils of yarn slipping off the fillingbobbin simultaneously and being woven into the fabric in a group.

Slub A term used to describe a short thick place in a yarn – usuallysymmetrical. (Also lump, piercing, slough-off, slug)

Slubby filling A bobbin of filling containing numerous slubs.Slug A thickened place several times the diameter of the yarn, 3mm or

over in length.Sluggy filling A bobbin of filling containing numerous gouts or slugs of waste

fibre.Smash A term used to describe a place in a fabric where a large number of

warp ends have been ruptured resulting in a relatively large hole.(Also Break-out)

Snag A yarn or part of a yarn pulled or plucked from the surface.Snap The result of a hard particle becoming lodged under a doctor blade,

holding the blade from the engraved roll, allowing colour to escapeon either side of the particle.

Soiled end A warp yarn that has been soiled by grease or dirt.Soiled filling A filling yarn that has been soiled by grease or dirt.Specification A precise statement of a set of the attributes and performance for a

given product or process.Specks Small pieces of undyed vegetable matter, which can be removed

by carbonising or can be covered by dyeing or inking.Spew (Spue) Any constituent of leather that comes to the surface in the form of a

white crystallised or dark gummy deposit.Spirality A distortion of fabric characterised by twisting.Split-stitch A stitch in which one part of the yarn is knit and the other is

dropped.Spot A discoloured place or stain on or in a fabric, resulting from any

number of causes and having any number of sources. Termsapplied include: colour spots, resist spots, drip spots, water spots,oil spots, etc.

Stain An area of discoloration that penetrates the fabric surface.Stitch density The number of stitches per unit length in one row of stitching in a

seam.Stitch gauge The perpendicular distance between adjacent parallel rows of

stitching.Stop mark A defect resulting from the relaxation of the yarns during a machine

stop when it is started again the slackness is taken by the knit,leaving a visible change in the density of the knitting across thewidth of the fabric.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Stop mark A defect resulting from the warp yarn elongating under tensionwhile a loom is stopped; when it is started again the slackness istaken up by the weave, leaving a visible change in the density ofthe weave across the width of the fabric.

Straying end The result of a broken end straying out of position and being knittedin an irregular manner into the fabric as the machine continues torun.

Streak An extended unintentional stripe of narrow width, often a singleyarn. (Also crease, reed, dye)

Suffocation Warning A warning label which is required by QVC on plastic bags if aspecified thickness is not met.

Swifttack A method of temporarily applying a tag such as a hangtag.Tacking cut Small holes or cuts along the selvage.Tailing A blue or break in a print. Also a dyeing defect in which the depth

or tone of a colour changes gradually from one end of the length offabric to the other.

Tailing down A defect in roller printed patterns caused by improper cleaning ofthe roller by the colour doctor, which tends to pull the colour pasteout of the engraving. A blurred edge occurs at the end of the printpeg.

Tear drop Short elliptical deviations of one or more adjoining picks. (AlsoTeariness)

Temple bruise A streak along the edge of a fabric that has been scuffed and/ordistorted by a damaged, malfunctioning or poorly set temple.

Temple mark Small holes or distortions adjacent to the selvage.Tensile strength The strength of a material under tension, expressed in terms of

force per unit cross-sectional area of the unstrained fabricTenter mark A visible deformation on the side edge or body of a fabric due to

pressure from clips or pins. (Also Clip mark, Pin mark)Test method A definitive procedure for the identification, measurement, and

evaluation of one or more qualities, characteristics, or properties ofa material, product, system, or service that produces a test result.

Thick place An unintentional change in fabric appearance characterised by asmall area of more closely spaced yarns, or by a congregation ofthick yarns as compared to that normal to the fabric.

Thin filling A filling yarn smaller in diameter than normal. (Also Fine filling,Fine pick, Light filling, Light pick, Thin pick)

Thin place An unintentional change in fabric appearance characterised by asmall area of loosely spaced yarns or by a congregation of thinyarns as compared to that normal to the fabric.

Thread Count The actual number of warp ends (lengthways) and filling picks(crosswise) per unit of measurement in a woven cloth.

TIA Textile Industry Affairs. A group that assists apparel and textileprofessionals in understanding and implementing the FTC CareLabel Rule.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Tight end A tight end will cause a finelined, length or warpwise distortion inthe fabric. Or an end which has shrunk more than a normalamount.

Tight end An end running taut due to some abnormal restriction. It tends toforce the filling to the surface of the fabric and, in yarn dyes wherea contrasting filling is used. It is very evident and is characterisedby a fine-lined streak of filling show-through similar to that of anopen reed.

Tight pick A filling yarn which was woven under excessive tension or hasshrunk more than a normal amount, which may cause puckering atthe junction with normal picks.

Tight selvage Selvage yarns shorter than warp yarn in the body of the fabric.Tight twist end A single end with higher than normal twist. (Also Hard end, Wiry

end)Tolerances Prescribed limits of variation for specified properties of a particular

fabric. These limits are based on observed values of fabricsamples and specified test methods.

Trammage A puckered area in which a filling yarn has twist running in thesame direction for several picks instead of alternating S and Ztwist.

Trapped shuttle A defect resulting from a loom stopping abruptly, trapping theshuttle in the shed. The effect is that of distorting the fabric andstretching the yarn; the resulting slackness is woven into the fabricupon start-up of the loom.

Trash Undeveloped seed, motes, small bits of seed coat, or particles ofleaf appearing as specks. (Also Mote trash)

Trim Card A worksheet that the apparel vendor must complete that includesinformation such as QVC item #, and actual samples of trims,fasteners, fabric swatches. Vendor must submit on card stock.Submitted to QVC Apparel QA prior to start of production.

TSV Today's Special Value. An item selected by a special committeeas one of the best 364 items QVC will offer in a given year. Theseitems should offer exceptional value and quality and generate aspecific sales volume in a 24-hour time period. It is offered at aspecial, one-day-only price for a 24-hour time period (unless stocksells out) beginning each day at midnight Eastern time andgenerally airing once per Program Host shift.

Tucking defect When the tuck stitching is unintentional and contrary to the designof the fabric. This may occur intermittently or continuously and isthe result of a malfunctioning needle or jack.

UKAS United Kingdom Accredited Services. A nationwide scientificorganisation with active sections across the country, whosemembers are active in the dyeing, finishing, and other chemicalphases of the industry.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Unaided-eyeinspection

A visual inspection using the naked eye with 20/20 vision, and noadditional tools, such as a microscope.

Undershoot A pick of filling deflected from its normal path through the shed andextending unbound under warp ends with which it should havebeen interlaced.

Uneven dyeing Cloth which shows variations in shade due either to incorrectdyeing methods or faulty materials.

Uneven filling A filling whose variation of diameter is noticeable enough to detractfrom the appearance of a fabric. A few of the causes are: choke ona drafting roll, poor distribution of fibre length, less than optimumdraft distribution, incorrect roll settings and eccentric behaviour ofdrafting rolls.

Upsell An accompanying accessory/complimentary product, mostcommonly seen with the TSV.

Velcro® A brand name for hook and loop closure. Approval must beobtained from the licensee before using.

Vendor Chargeback(VCB)

Vendor Charge Back. A financial penalty levied against a Vendorfor violation of QVC's shipping and/or receiving guidelines. Thereare a variety of charges associated with issues including promptshipping, quality rejections, and violations of QVC's packagingrequirements.

Visual Inspection See Unaided-eye inspection.Warp float A warp end extending unbound over or under picks with which it

should have interlaced.Warp streak A narrow band running lengthways and characterised by apparent

differences in colour from adjoining ends.Warp¹ The yarn in woven fabrics that runs lengthways and parallel to the

selvedge and is interwoven with the filling yarn.Warp² See bow.Warpproof For leather goods, the property whereby distortion is prevented by

treating the leather. The leather is expected to remaindimensionally stable during the intended use for the expected life ofthe product or material.

Wash-and-wear A generic term applied to garments which satisfactorily retain theiroriginal neat appearance after repeated wear and suitable homelaundering with little or no pressing or ironing.

Washboard A ridge effect caused by uneven tension between feeds on theknitting machine.

Water Repellence The comparable resistance of a fabric to surface wetting, waterpenetration, or water absorption.

Water Resistance The ability of a material to resist water penetration with a measuredamount of force.

APPAREL GLOSSARY


Waterproof A leather product or the leather components of a product may belabelled "waterproof" when the product and/or its components havebeen treated to make it:1. Impenetrable to water2. Impermeable to water3. Impervious to waterunder normal conditions and during the intended use for theexpected life of the product or material.

Wavy cloth A term used to describe cloth woven under conditions of varyingtension, preventing the even placement of filling picks. The resultis a fabric with randomly alternating thick and thin places.Generally this is traceable to a faulty let-off or take-up motion onthe loom. A cloth that will not lie flat on a cutting table. (AlsoBaggy cloth)

Wavy face A surface condition characterised by a considerable variation inyarn diameter.

Wavy selvage (See Selvage)Weft The yarn running from selvedge to selvedge at right angles to the

warp in a woven fabric. Each row of filling is called a pick. Usedinterchangeably with filling.

Wild filling A piece of loose or stay yarn jerked into the shed along with aregular pick of filling.

Woven Fabric A fabric constructed by weaving two sets of yarn.Wrinkle An objectionable crease, generally short and irregular in shape.Wrinkle recovery The property of a fabric which enables it to recoup from folding

deformations with minimum restorative procedures.Wrinkle resistance The property of a fabric which enables it to prevent the formation of

wrinkles when subjected to a folding deformation.Wrong draw One or more incorrectly drawn warp ends in the harness or reed.

(Also Wrong draft, Misdraw)

apparel glossary

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