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Apparel Dictionary A bit of knowledge can save a lot of money.

1/1/2013 True to Size Apparel

When we see descriptions of garments, there are many features that most people are unfamiliar with. If you knew what the words described, you may be more motivated to purchase or realize that the garment is not the value you thought it would be. True to Size Apparel was the only embroidery company to exhibit in the International Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in Las Vegas, Nevada. When asked how we were allowed to exhibit in a trade show devoted to consumer electronics, we explained that a lot of our garments have technology built into them. Many of our clothes work as hard as the people wearing them! You may be getting a deal of a lifetime or you may be buying less than you thought. Words matter and this twenty-two page, 8,000 plus word Apparel Dictionary is designed to help you in making an informed decision. Trust True to Size Apparel for your uniform, embroidery and screen printing needs. This book is our way of trying to earn your business. Go to our website www.TrueToSizeApparel.com and Follow, Like & Watch us. You can also subscribe to our RSS feeds on Home Specials and other events. Enjoy!

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Apparel Dictionary www.TrueToSizeApparel.com

All Rights Reserved | True to Size Apparel 2012

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1x1 Rib - Also 2x2 rib knit trim. The width of each rib is the same as the width between each rib. This

helps the garment to retain its elasticity.

4-Needle Stitched - Double-needle stitched but with four stitches

2-Way Zipper - A zipper with two zipper pulls so that it can be unzipped from either direction.

Air Mesh - A mesh that has multiple layers to allow air to pass through the fabric

Airjet Yarn - Cotton and polyester garments which provide for a virtually "pill free" look, wash after

wash.

Allen Solley placket - A one-piece placket that's hidden after being sewn. This process utilizes the

existing fabric for the outside placket face. This is an upscale placket type.

All Weather Microfiber - 100% Polyester Microfiber with waterproof coating and fully taped seams.

100% waterproof

ANSI - American National Standards Institute establishes guidelines for safety; styles specifically meant

to promote safety and visibility often are held to ANSI standards

Anti-microbial (anti-bacterial) - fabric that has either been chemically treated, or produced with a fiber

that is inherently hostile to micro-organisms. Anti-microbial fabrics are resistant to, or inhibit the growth

of organisms that can cause odors or deteriorate the fabric.

Award jacket - A baseball-style jacket with contrasting striped trim.

Anatomically correct straps - Straps on a golf bag that are designed to fit the shape of a person's

shoulders for maximum comfort.

Anti-Pill - A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric's

surface due to abrasion during wear.

Argyle - Typically a diamond pattern woven into a garment

Baby Pique - Very small pique knit. See Pique Knit.

Badger Tech - a category of apparel of extremely soft fabric, as if ring-spun, combed cotton. All TECH

performance is made out of a new 4.1-oz polyester and spandex performance fabric.

Back Pleats - Tiny folds in the material on the back of a garment that allow for more room and comfort.



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Back Yoke - A piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the

garment to lay flat and drape nicely.

Ballistic nylon - a thick, durable, synthetic nylon fabric.

Banded self collar - a type of collar made of the same material as the shirt. The two basic kinds of this

collar are the simulated, made of two pieces, or the true, made of four pieces.

Bartacked - Reinforced stitching, for example, the rivets used on the pockets of jeans.

Baseball shirt - a shirt style that features a crew collar, white body, and three-quarter-length raglan

sleeves in a contrasting color.

Basket weave - a variation of the plain weave in which two or more threads are woven side by side to

resemble a "basket" look. Fabrics have a loose construction and loose appearance.

Bedford Cord - a heavy fabric with a lengthwise ribbed weave, resembles corduroy

Besom pocket - reinforced top seam found on the pockets of golf shirts. This reinforced top seam keeps

the pocket in shape and more durable.

Bi-Swing Shoulder - a generous fit across the shoulder for ease of movement

Binding - a strip of material sewn or attached over or along the edge of something for protection,

reinforcement or ornamentation.

Birdseye Jacquard - A small geometric pattern with a center dot knit into the fabric.

Blanket Stitch - A decorative stitch used to finish an unhemmed blanket. The stitch can be seen on both

sides of the blanket.

Blanks - undecorated items or apparel; also refers to "blank" goods.

Blend - A term applied to a yarn or fabric that is made up of more than one fiber.

Body Mapping Technology - (NIKE GOLF) Strategically placed ventilation zones to increase breathability

and improve airflow across the body.

Bonded Fleece - Fleece with multiple layers bonded together to form a higher functioning garment.

Box Pleat - A single, uniform fold in the center back of a garment to allow for more room and comfort.

Breeze Knit - garment-washed cool knit. By garment washing, the cool knit gets a softer hand and

reduced shrinkage.



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Brim - a sun screen that goes all the way around a hat. An example would be a tennis hat.

Broadcloth - a close plain-weave fabric made of cotton, rayon or a blend of cotton or rayon with

polyester.

Brushed Cotton - Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric,

leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish.

Buckram backing - stiff fabric used to give shape and form to items like caps, belts, etc. Also used to

stabilize embroidery edges.

Burnout - usually a blended fabric (cotton/poly for instance) treated with a chemical to slightly dissolve

one fiber in the cloth. The result is a sheer, lacy design often giving the fabric a vintage, worn-in feel.

Because of this process, each garment is unique, and similar to tie-dyed or pigment-dyed fabric, there is

often variations in the design and color.

Button-Through Sleeve Placket - A small placket located on the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a

single button closure.

Cabretta leather - a leather made from the skins of sheep that grow hair rather than wool, tougher than

other sheepskins and used chiefly for gloves and shoes

Calendaring - essentially an ironing process that adds sheen to the fabric by the use of heavy rollers (or

calendars), pressure and steam heat.

Cami-Strap - Very narrow shoulder straps.

Canvas - strong, firm, heavyweight, and closely woven fabric. Usually made of cotton.

Cap sleeve - a very short sleeve that hangs over the shoulder but does not extend beyond the armhole

on the underside, often used for ladies' fashion tees.

Carding - the manufacturing process of drawing out and arranging the cotton fibers in a parallel fashion

while removing impurities in the fibers. Carding is less expensive and less labor intensive than combing

cotton, but results in a slightly coarser texture.

Cashmere - The fine, downy wool growing beneath the outer hair of the Cashmere goat. The scarcity of

the fiber and the handiwork required to convert the fiber into a luxurious garment contribute to the

cashmere's price.

Casual Microfiber - 100% Polyester Microfiber fabric that is water repellent and wind resistant.



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Cationic Fabric - Undergoes a unique dyeing process involving positively-charged ions in the solution,

causing the fabric's coloring to resist bleeding and fading

Cavalry Twill - A type of twill weave (pattern of the twill)

Chambray - A dressier fabric woven with white threads across colored threads.

Chino Cotton - A coarse twilled cotton fabric used for uniforms and sometimes work or sports clothes.

Clean-finished placket - typically the interfacings of plackets are raw or edged, which means they can

look ragged or uneven, particularly on light-colored shirts. By cutting the interfacing in a rectangle,

turning the edges under and fusing them in place, there is a straight placket with no raw edges. All that

shows inside the shirt is the smooth edge.

ClimaCool - a registered adidas term used to describe products made of fabric that withstand wind and

rain, and keep moisture off the body and in the atmosphere

Clima_FIT - (NIKE GOLF) Fabric that blocks wind and resists rain. The fabric has spaces too small for

water droplets to get in, but allowing excess perspiration and body heat to escape. This is all done with a

thinly spun yarn that is tightly woven for a dense weave.

Coach's jacket - style of jacket, comparable to a basic windbreaker, with fold-over collar and slash

pockets.

Collar - The upright or turned-over neckband of a coat, jacket or shirt.

Collarett - The trim around the neck of a t-shirt or sweatshirt.

Color blocking - merchandising and/or cutting term whereby a certain type or block of colors ends up in

the same place every time on the finished garment.

Colorfast - A dyed fabric's ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight, and other

environmental conditions.

Combed Cotton - Cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers and straighten or arrange

longer fibers in parallel order.

Combing - a secondary cleansing process performed to remove additional impurities from the staple

fibers after carding. This is a better, more refined cotton than carding.

Compacting - process that compacts the space between fabric fiber pockets. This will prevent cotton

shrinkage. Comprehension straps - straps which securely hold the inner contents of a bag.

Compression molded - a solid, pre-formed molded panel that is created using compression.



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Constructed - a constructed cap has buckram backing.

Cool knit - a variation of pique that results in a different texture and surface appearance. It resembles a

"waffle" pattern.

Cool Mesh - Similar to a pique knit, but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Features a

soft hand for better comfort.

Cool Weave - Similar to a pique knit, but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Slightly

larger knit than Cool Mesh, it has a denser feel.

Cord Locks - A stopper or toggle on a draw cord that keeps the cord from retracting into the garmet.

Corduroy - A cut filling pile cloth with narrow to wide ribs, can be found in polyester, and man-made

blends.

Cotton - Soft vegetable fiber obtained from the seedpod of the cotton plant.

Cotton sheeting - plain-weave cotton fabric, usually prelaundered, used for fashion sportswear. It's

wrinkled to create crinkle cotton.

Cover seamed - A finish in which two needles are used to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It is

used around the neck, arm holes, waistband, and wrists of garments to create a cleaner, more durable

finish.

Crestable panels - panels that are available for custom branding.

Crew collar - a rounded, ribbed collar cut loose to the neck.

Crinkle cotton - wrinkled or puckered cotton obtained by cloth, construction or finishing. It is

prelaundered and made from cotton finishing.

Critical Seam-Seal - Seams that are sealed with a waterproof tape only in areas that are susceptible to

water like shoulders, front seams and zippers.

Crop top - a shirt style made to expose the midriff.

Cross cut - fabric knit on a pique machine, which is altered slightly to provide a unique stitch. The face of

the fabric is two-toned, which gives it a dimensional, textured look and feel. The garment stitching will

have a horizontal appearance rather than a vertical one.

Cross grain - this term is used for heavyweight fleece fabric. The fabric is sewn between ribs or panels

on the side part of the garment for extra thickness and durability.



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Crown - the upper-most part of the cap of a hat that is sewn to either a hatband, brim or sweat band.

CVC - chief value cotton; used in some blends of t-shirts for a fine, smooth feel

Dazzle - a lightweight fabric that easily allows the body to receive ventilation during physical activity.

Dazzle fabric is distinguished by the pattern of tiny holes in the weave of the material. Often made of

synthetic fibers as well as cotton/synthetic blends, the look of dazzle wear is usually somewhat sleek

and shiny.

Debossed silicone - a stamped, soft silicone process versus a raised mold; this material is often used for

colored bracelets

Denier - A density of the weave in a nylon or polyester product.

Denim - a basic or cotton or blended fabric with right- or left-hand twill constructions. The wrap is

usually dyed blue with a white filing.

Divot Repair Tool - a useful tool for any golfer, this item is used to replace and mend any divots created

in the grass with the swing of a club

Dobby - A decorative weave, usually geometric, that is woven into the fabric.

Double Knit - A circular knit fabric knitted via double stitch on a double needle frame to provide a

double thickness.

Double-Needle Stitched - A finish used on a sleeve and/or bottom hem that uses two needles to create

parallel rows of visible stitching. It gives the garment a cleaner, more finished look and adds durability.

Down - The soft fluffy under feathers of ducks and geese.

Draw cord - a cord or ribbon run through a hem or casing and pulled to tighten or close an opening or

drawstring.

Dri-FIT (NIKE GOLF) - Fabric that helps keep you comfortable and dry by moving perspiration from your

skin to the outside for rapid evaporation. The process happens by transferring perspiration through

layers of fabric. As the body produces moisture, these layers carry the moisture through the garment

and up to the outside layer where it is dispersed across the outer surface and released into the air.

Dri-FIT UV (NIKE GOLF) - Same as Dri-FIT (see Dri_FIT) that also features 30 UPF.

Drop Needle - A knit fabric characterized by vertical lines within the cloth. Manufactured by "dropping"

a needle from the knitting cylinder.



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Drop seam - a seam that is cut and lays below the shoulder of the garment.

Drop Tail - A longer back than front for the purpose of keeping the shirt tucked in. Also referred to as

Extended Tail.

Dry-Fiber - A high activity sportswear fabric that absorbs, wicks and dries faster than average golfwear.

Dry-Fiber Dynamics (PING®) - A high activity sportswear fabric that absorbs, wicks and dries faster than

average golfwear.

Duck Cloth - Tightly woven fabric that provides wind and snag resistance.

DWR - a special finishing process to enhance longevity and effectiveness of water resistance (Durable

Water Resistant)

Dyed-to-Match - Describes buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are

sewn.

EcoSpun - A fleece outerwear fabric made from at least 50% materials reclaimed from recycled plastic

soda pop bottles.

Egyptian Cotton - Cultivated in Egypt's Nile River Valley, this cotton is considered the best cotton in the

world. The particular growing season gives the cotton the longest and strongest fibers, making it ideal

for weaving into smooth, strong yarn. Commonly used in high-end towels and linens.

End-on-End - A 2-ply weave of different color yarns that run parallel against each other so that both

colors are visible.

Enzyme Washed - A laundering process in which a catalytic substance is added to create a chemical

change in the fabric resulting in a very soft finish, smoother appearing surface and reduced shrinkage.

Etched-Tone Buttons - A more upscale horn-tone button with an etched pattern.

EVA molded - a type of foam with softness and flexibility that yet can be processed like other

thermoplastics. The material has good barrier properties, low-temperature toughness, stress-crack

resistance, hot-melt adhesive waterproof properties and resistance to UV radiation for maximum

durability.

Expandable collar - the top button of a woven shirt is attached to an elastic band hidden under the

fabric. This adds some stretch when buttoning the top button for more comfort on larger necks.

Extended Tail - When the back portion of the garment is longer than the front. Assists in keeping the

garment tucked in during normal activity. Also referred to as Drop Tail.



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Eyelets - Small holes or perforations made in a series to allow breathability. Finished with either

stitching or brass grommets.

Fabric memory - a term used for cotton fabric. When washing instructions are followed, it will always

come back looking as if it were brand new.

Face yarn - the exterior yarn of a fleece garment.

50/50 - 50 percent cotton/50 percent polyester fabric; also referred to as "polycotton".

Fine Gauge Knit - Ensures a smoother hand and fabric surface, allowing for better print.

Flat Knit - Welt knit fabric made on a flatbed-knitting frame as distinguished from tubular knit made on

a circular frame.

Fleece - a fabric with a pile or napped surface, sometimes of a unit construction; commonly used in

sweats.

Football jersey - a jersey shirt with a slight v-neck, stitched yoke and one-half-length to three-quarter-

length sleeves.

Full Cut - Refers to a garment's fit as being generous and roomy.

Fused lining - a lining that is fused to the two outer plies with solvent, heat and pressure. It's used to

stabilize or stiffen parts of a garment, such as a pocket or collar.

Gabardine - a firm hard-finish durable fabric, twilled with diagonal ribbon

Garment Dyed - A dyeing process that occurs after the garment is assembled.

Garment Washed - A wash process where softeners are added to finished garments to help the cotton

fibers relax or bloom. The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage and a softer

hand.

Grommet - an eyelet of firm material to strengthen or protect an opening.

Grosgrain - A closely woven silk or rayon fabric with narrow horizontal stripes.

Gusset - triangular inserts in sleeve seams to widen and strengthen.

Hand - The way the fabric feels when it is touched.

Hanger appeal - a retail term meaning very marketable or very appealing to a retail market; as in "looks

appealing on the hanger"



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Heat-seal label - tagless labels; the information displayed on a label is heat stamped or printed onto the

garment to avoid an itchy attached label. (Badger, adidas and UltraClub are three examples of brands

that do this)

Heather - a yarn that is spun using pre-dyed fibers. These fibers are blended together to give a particular

look. (For example, black and white may be blended together to create a gray heathered yarn.) The

term, heather, may also be used to describe the fabric made from heathered yarns.

Heavyweight - fabric heavier than 10 ounces per linear yard, equal to 1.60 yield. Standard weight in the

industry is 8 ounces (2.0 yield) or lighter.

High cotton - type of cotton fabric that results in a soft hand. Therefore, it has little or no lint and a

tighter knit, which makes for ideal screen printing.

Herringbone - A chevron or zigzag pattern, knit into fabric.

High Profile - A cap style with a high slope structured with a buckram - a stiff fabric lining. Less fitted to

the head.

Honeycomb Pique - A pique fabric with a waffle or cellular appearance.

Horn-Tone Buttons - Buttons that appear to be manufactured from horn.

Houndstooth - A medium sized broken check effect that is knit into the fabric.

Hydrophilic or Hydrophilic finish - hydrophilic fibers absorb water easily, often used in moisture-

management styles to aid in wicking and quick evaporation of perspiration

IL50 - Fabric treatment used on garments that allows them to withstand more than 50 washes through

the extreme conditions of industrial laundering machines.

Indigo dyeing - indigo dye is a substance taken from the indigo plant. There are many chemical imitation

indigo dyes. Indigo dye color can only be achieved through a process of dyeing where yarn is dipped into

a dye bath and is then allowed to oxidize. The number of dips determines the depth of the indigo color-

the more dips, the darker the color.

Interlock Knit - A fabric that has two plys knit simultaneously to form one thicker and heavier ply. It has

more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides.

Iridescent Buttons - Buttons with a lustrous, rainbow-like hue.

Jacquard Knit - A pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process. Typically, two or

more colors are used.



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Jaspe pique - two color yarns create subtle tone variations on the surface of the fabric. This will allow

exceptional embroidery surfaces.

Jersey Knit - Fabric has a definite smooth side, the outside, and a textured side, the inside.

Kasha-lining - a lining principally for jackets featuring cotton flannel, napped face and imitation

chambray back.

Lamborder - A flat rib knit, with specified dimensions that is used to function as a placket and placket

facing.

Lap shoulder - an infant's shirt where the back panel or body parts overlap the front panel at the

neckline where the set-in sleeves start. See style R2000 Rabbit Skins Organic Lap Shoulder Tee.

Leather - An animal skin made smooth and flexible by removing the hair and then tanning.

Linear - a form of measurement of fleece's weight. The higher the number, the heavier and warmer the

fabric.

Linen - A flax product, linen absorbs moisture quickly and does not soil easily.

Lisle - high-quality cotton yarn made by plying yarns spun from long, combed staple.

Locker Loop - A looped piece of fabric in the neck of the garment for the convenience of hanging the

garment on a hook. Can also be located at the center of the back yoke on the inside or outside of a

garment.

Locker Patch - A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside back portion of a garment, just under the collar

seam, to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. The patch also allows for

the garment tag or label to be sewn below the neckline to help prevent irritation.

Logo - an artistic interpretation of a company's sign or symbol. These figures can be copyrighted or

trademarked. Permission is needed for duplication.

Low Profile - A cap style with a low slope that is more closely fitted to the head. Can be either structured

or unstructured.

Lycra® - INVISTA's trademark for a synthetic fabric material with elastic properties of "spandex".

MAG pockets - magnetic access pockets.

Marbled - a texture that involves a body color with contrasting highlight flecks on the surface. These

flecks give the garment a heather-like appearance.



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Matte Taslan - See Taslan but with a dull finish.

Melamine - A highly resistant, exceptionally strong plastic laminate material sometimes used in buttons.

Melange - A mix of different colors of yarns knit together to create a heathered effect.

Mercerization - a process that eliminates all of the small "hairs" of yarn, which adds to its luster. This

yarn is then additionally run through a caustic solution, which further smoothes and adds gloss to the

yarn surface by burning off additional fabric hairs.

Mercerized - A product that has gone through a process to produce a smooth, lustrous hand.

Mercerized Cotton - Cotton thread that has been treated with sodium hydroxide. The thread is given a

caustic soda bath that is then neutralized with an acid bath. This treatment increases luster, sheen,

strength, affinity to dye, resistance to mildew, and also reduces lint. Only the finest cotton is reserved

for this process.

Mesh - Similar to a pique knit, but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Larger knit

than Cool Weave.

Microfiber - Fabric that is tightly woven from a very fine poly thread and has a sueded finish for a

luxurious, soft feel. Microfiber fabric is naturally water repellent due to its construction process and

when specially treated, can also be waterproof.

Micro Fleece - A high density, anti-pilling fleece made of knit micro-fibers that are brushed less than a

regular fleece garment. It has a high capacity for warmth without the weight.

Micro Cord - A very fine wale cord.

Micro-Stripe - An ultra-fine stripe that is knit into the fabric.

Mid Profile - A cap with a slope height in between that of a High Profile and Low Profile. It is most often

structured with buckram.

Modal fabric - type of rayon made by spinning cellusose from beech trees, is 50% more water absorbent

than cotton, resists shrinkage and softer than mercerized cotton..

Mother of Pearl Logo Buttons - Buttons made from Mother of Pearl, with a logo inscribed on them.



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Mock turtleneck - a shortened version of the turtleneck where the neck of the garment does not fold

over.

Moisture wicking - Moisture-wicking fabric actually draws moisture from perspiration away from the

skin to the surface of the garment where it can evaporate more quickly and easily. Moisture-wicking

styles are ideal not just for athletes and teams, but also for general wear because they help keep the

wearers feeling fresh and dry

Muscle Tee - A casual shirt similar to a T-shirt but without sleeves, ostensibly worn to show off a

muscular physique.

Nail Head Design - A jacquard knitting pattern in which the jacquard forms a design similar to small nail

heads.

Nailhead woven - consists of a solid background and color and little pinheads' (or small nailheads) of

fabric spaced at regular (and very small) intervals. The effect of this pattern is that the background color

tends to overshadow the nailhead pattern.

Neoprene - a synthetic rubber that is resistant to oils and aging

Non-Iron - Chemically treated fabrics that are resistant to wrinkles. These fabrics allow you to wash

without the need for pressing. Clothes look fresh and maintain a sophisticated look for each wearing.

NuBlend - The combination of a knitting and spinning process developed by JERZEES® for their blended

fleece that helps prevent pilling.

Nubuk - a synthetic leather with its finished surface buffed to a slight nap or suede-like appearance.

Nylon - A synthetic polymer, a plastic, durable fabric used in apparel and other everyday items.

One-ply yarn - one strand of thread is used to form the yarn that is woven into terry loops.

Open-end yarn - a process that eliminates some manufacturing steps needed for ring-spun yarn. This

cost-saving process is passed on to the garments produced.

Ottoman - A tightly woven plain weave ribbed fabric with a hard, slightly lustered surface. The ribbed

effect is created by weaving a finer silk or manufactured warp yarn with a heavier filler yarn (usually

cotton or wool).

Ounces per sq. yd - a measurement of fabric weight, a weight that customers usually ask for when

making a comparison to competitive brands.



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Overdyed - A process in which yarn dyed fabrics or piece dyed garments are put through an additional

dye color to create unique colors.

Oxford - A type of fabric where the fibers are either cotton or blended man-made fibers.

Pashmina - A luxurious shawl, wrap, or scarf made of finer fabrics like silk and cashmere.

Patch Pocket - A pocket attached to the outside of the garment.

Peached - A fabric that has been processed to have the lofty softness of a peach.

Peach finish - a soft hand (feel) usually obtained by sanding the fabric lightly; it can be achieved with

chemical or laundry abrasion.

Pearlized Buttons - Buttons that have a pearl-colored hue.

Peruvian Pima Cotton - Peruvian Pima Cotton is often referred to as the "cashmere of cotton" the

softest, smoothest, "silkiest" fabric you can wear. Shrinkage standard for Peruvian Pima fabrics is a

maximum of 5 x 5 if the garment is washed following directions on the label.

PET recycled polyester - P.E.T. (polyethylene terephthalate) refers to a specific type of plastic often used

in plastic bottles. In a 7-step process, bottles are reclaimed and made into polyester fabric. This fabric is

used, for instance, in Anvil's style 450.

Pewter Buttons - Buttons that have a dull, metallic hue.

Pewter and Horn-Tone Buttons - Buttons that incorporate pewter and horn tone, usually one

encompasses the other.

PFD - prepare for dyeing. It indicates that the garment has been specifically prepared for the garment-

dyeing process.

Piece dying - fabrics that are dyed solid colors after they have been woven or knitted, but before they

are sewn into a garment.

Pigment dyeing - a class of dye used on cotton or poly/cotton. Neon or fluorescent colors are done with

pigments. Dyers also do a distressed look using pigments. Pigments have the least degree of fastness of

all the dyes, but create the brightest colors. Pigment dyes will typically stay in the pastel range unless it's

neon. You cannot deepen color with a pigment.

Pigment Dyed - A type of dye used to create a distressed or washed look.



15

Pill - A tangled ball of fibers that appears on the surface of a fabric, as a result of wear or continued

friction or rubbing on teh surface of the fabric.

Pima Cotton - A high-end yarn made by plying yarns spun from long combed staple. One of the best

grades of cotton in the world. Pima cotton has extra long fiber lengths making it soft, yet strong.

Pima-Tek - Lightweight pima cotton, polyester and spandex jersey knit with a smooth hand and plenty

of stretch for active wear. Also contains moisture wicking properties.

Pinnies - sleeveless jerseys, often used in soccer or lacrosse practice. Pinnies are often two-color,

reversible vests to help a practicing team know who the opposing players are.

Pinpoint oxford - two fine yarns that are wrapped together for a fine and luxurious hand.

Piping - a narrow tube of fabric, sometimes enclosing a cord, used for trimming seams and edges as an

added fashion detail.

Pique Knit - A knitting method that creates a fine textured surface that appears similar to a birds nest or

waffle weave.

Placket - The part of a shirt or jacket where the edges of the fabric overlap, often fastened with buttons.

Plain weave - simplest, most common of all basic weaves. The surface provides a smooth surface for

printing.

Plastisol - A printing ink most commonly used on garments that contain a plasticizer and resin and will

not air dry or air cure.

Ply - Two or more yarns that have been twisted together.

Polar fleece - knitted using 100% fine denier polyester yarns. The pile is napped on the front and back to

promote a very soft hand with exceptional loft. This is a fine denier knit that also allows the fabric to dry

quickly.

Poly-Fill - A warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear garments. It has

more loft than a regular nylon lining.

Polyester - A strong, durable synthetic fabric with a low moisture absorbency.

Polynosic - Features similar characteristics to cotton and silk, has excellent luster and very little

shrinkage.



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Poly viscose - a synthetic material similar to rayon, made of 65% polyester/35% viscose that creates a

lightweight, soft hand fabric that's particularly popular in retail markets.

Poplin - A tightly woven, durable, medium weight cotton or cotton blend fabric made using a rib

variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.

Powder dyeing - process that allows polyester to blend with cotton to give a garment a dyed

appearance. Powder dyed garments ensure consistent color, wash after wash.

Preshrunk - fabrics that are preshrunk (usually cotton) are more likely to retain their shape and size

because, before the garment is manufactured, the fabric is subjected to a shrinking process to reduce

the amount of shrinking during laundering

Print Pro - A knitting process developed by Hanes® for their fleece garments that creates a tighter knit

for a better printing surface.

PU construction - a synthetic split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface and then

embossed.

PVC - A polyurethane coating that is added to make garments water resistant.

Quarter turned - an additional manufacturing process where the mill rotates 1/4 of a turn to put a

crease on the side of the product rather then the front of the product.

R-Tek Fleece - 100% polyester fleece with an anti-pill finish which prevents the formation of little balls

on the surface of the fabric.

Raglan - a raglan sleeve is stitched under the arm and in two parallel lines leading from the armpit to the

neck; it makes for ease of arm movement.

Ramie - a strong, staple fiber of cellulose yielded by the inner bark of the ramie plant. It's often used as a

less expensive substitute for linen or cotton, and is usually blended with cotton, flax or silk.

Rapid Dry - A fabric designed with a unique weave to wick away moisture from the body.

Reactive dye - special dye used on a garment which produces, when the label's wash instructions are

followed, a more set-in color tone.

Reflective - polished surface for reflecting light

Resin treatment - the addition of thermosetting resins applied in the finishing process, used to control

the shrinkage of a fabric and add durable press characteristics.



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Reverse weave - a popular fabric in athletic sweatshirts; for example, many Champion sweatshirts are

made with the grain of the fabric running sideways instead of vertically, and includes side panels to help

maintain its shape and fight shrinking.

Rib - a stretchy fabric normally used for trim. This stitch is formed by two sets of needles at right angles

to each other. The face of the fabric appears to be the same as the backside.

Rib Knit - A textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains

"memory".

Ring Spun - Yarn made by continuously twisting and thinning a rope of cotton fibers. The twisting makes

the short hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a stronger yarn with a significantly softer hand.

Ringer tee - a shirt, usually white bodied, featuring ribbed crew neck and sleeve bands in a contrasting

color.

Running Stitch - A stitch that is spaced equally, with the underside stitching being half the length of the

external side.

Sand washed - A washing process in which the fabric is washed with very fine lava rocks or rubber /

silicon balls resulting in a softer fabric with a relaxed look and reduced shrinkage.

Sandwich hat - a hat where there is contrasting trim between the upper and lower part of the visor.

Satin - Fabric that has a smooth, lustrous face effect while the back of the material is dry.

Scoop neck - a rounded neck, larger than a crewneck, but smaller than a boatneck.

Sculpted Hem - A hem that is softly rounded for fashion detail.

Seamless collar - a collar that is knit in a circle and is set in circular. There are no joining seams on the

collar, found in better-made t-shirts.

Seam-Sealed - Seams that are sealed with a special waterproof tape or a rolling process to make a

garment completely waterproof.

Self-Fabric Collar - A collar that is constructed from the same material as the body of the garment.

Self-Fabric Sweatband - Refers to headwear where the sweatband is constructed with the same fabric

as the crown

Serge Stitch - An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling.



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Sensor Cool (PING®) - Polyester fabric specially blended to absorb body heat and release it back when

needed.

Set-in sleeve - a style of sleeve that is sewn into the shoulder, as opposed to the neck.

Sheared - refers to the towel's finish. A sheared surface is created clipping the loops on one side of the

towel. Sheared terry is often referred to as having a velour finish. The shearing process creates a plush

and smooth finish, which is great for printing or embroidery. The weight of the fabric has a big impact on

the overall appearance of the shear. A heavier weight fabric enhances the velour appearance because

there is more material to shear.

Shearling - Traditionally a sheepskin shorn close for a uniform length of wool fibers; a synthetic

production of similar fabric for added moisture-wicking properties for year-round comfort.

Sheering - the minimal gathering where the fabric meets, creating a flowy, draping quality.

Sheeting - a plain-weave cotton fabric usually made of carded yarns.

Sherpa - a knitted terry fabric that has been brushed and washed to raise the fibers for a fluffy, plush

feel. The thick terry loops stay soft and absorbent over time.

Shoddy - clippings of extra fabric from the production of tees is gathered, sorted by color, then

processed into a pulpy material called shoddy. This material is then respun into yarn and used to create

recycled apparel.

Side seams - seams that join the front and back together. This feature is not found on T-shirts and some

placket shirts.

Side Vents - Slits found at the bottom of side seams. They are fashion details that allow for comfort and

ease of movement.

Single-needle - a stitch, requiring a single needle and thread, characterized by its straight-line pathway.

A single-needle shoulder seam has been finished with a visible row of stitching, single needle, for

additional reinforcement and fashion.

Silk - Silk is a natural protein fiber that can be woven into textiles. It is obtained from the cocoon of

silkworm reared in captivity. The shimmering appearance for which silk is prized comes from the fiber's

triangular prism-like structure which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles.

Singles - A term used to indicate the diameter of a yarn; the smaller the number, the thicker the yarn.

Slash Pockets - A pocket that has to be entered through a slash on the outside of the garment. The

pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the slash.



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Slub yarn - When "slub" yarn is spun it forms intermittent lumps in the yarn. The lumps, called "slubs,"

appear thicker than the surrounding yarn when it is knit into fabric. It gives a burnout like appearance

without the transparency and easier printability.

Snag Resistant - A fabric or fiber that is typically not susceptible to the formation of a small loop or hole

caused by the tearing or catching of a sharp object; Reduced tendency to fray.

Solera polyester - polyester derived from corn, an eco-friendly material

Sonic weld logos - A type of logo treatment, where the graphic is applied without the use of stitches. A

direct injection of material is applied to the fabric to create the logo.

Spandasol - an additive placed in printing ink to allow the dried ink design to stretch with the fabric

(should be added to ink when printing on "burn-out" styles)

Sphere Dry (NIKE) - This patented fabric has a raised "bumpy" surface that lines the inside of the shirt.

These bumps not only create an appealing athletic-inspired texture, they also work together like a

funnel to draw perspiration from the inside out. The fabric's three-dimensional construction creates air

space around you to reduce cling.

Sport-Wick - A moisture-wicking fabric that includes anti-static properties for comfort during light

warm-ups and cool-downs.

Staff bag - a style of bag used on the PGA Tour and other professional tours.

Stain Release - Finishes that provide fabrics with a special quality that enables stains that have been

ground in to clothing (such as oil, dirt, and others) to be easily washed out when laundered. This same

feature also displays a quality to resist oily substances from attaching to surface areas.

Stain Resistant - A finish on fabric surface that repels water and certain oils. The liquid beads on the

surface of the fabric instead of getting absorbed, thus preventing a stain.

Standard Athletic Team Colors - standards for all primary team colors to better control uniform

standards; used to ensure consistency across product lines

Staple - the actual length of a cotton fiber.

Stonewash - a finishing process that creates a distressed appearance, including a softer texture,

puckering at the seams and slight wrinkling. Garments are tumbled together with stones (usually pumice

stones) in larger washers. This process is usually applied to indigo-dyed denim garments. Different sizes

of stones can be used and length of washing time can be varied to achieve different effects.



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Stonewashed - A washing process in which the fabric or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or

rubber / silicon balls. The result is a softer fabric with a distressed or weathered look and reduced

shrinkage.

Storm-FIT (NIKE GOLF) - Ultra-fine microfiber polyester with a breathable coating to provide total

protection from water and wind.

Storm Flap - A strip of fabric sewn under or over the front zip or snap closure of an outerwear garment

to protect against wind and moisture.

Structured - A cap style with a lined front consisting of buckram, a stiff fabric, that controls the slope of

the cap.

Sueded Cotton - A fabric that goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and give the garment a

soft hand.

Sublimation transfer - method of subliming a dye pattern, through the use of heat, onto polyester fabric

from a paper carrier.

Sueded fleece - a very smooth and luxurious fleece that is made with an 80/20 cotton and polyester

blend; a unique finishing process wherein the fabric is gently "sanded," which causes the fleece to

become very soft.

Supima® Cotton - One of the best grades of cotton in the world, the premium fiber is longer, finer and

stronger than other cotton. The name "Supima" is an abbreviation for Superior Pima. (see Pima Cotton).

The name "Supima®" is a licensed trademark owned by Supima and its members. It is used to promote

textile and apparel products made of 100% American Pima cotton, but is strictly controlled by the

grower association.

Taffeta - a crisp plain-woven lustrous fabric of various fibers used especially for women's clothing

Taped Seams - A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear,

taped seams aid in waterproofing.

Taslan - Refers to how the fibers are woven and the resulting texture. Used mainly in outerwear

garments, Taslan is a durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface.

Teklon - A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent.

Tencel - A fabric made from the fiber found in wood pulp which is processed into a silk-like, delicate

fabric.



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Terra-Tek - A durable and water repellent Taslan with a matte finish.

Terry Velouor - A type of material with uncut loops on both sides. It has a soft, plush feel and is water

absorbent.

Therma-FIT (NIKE GOLF) - Fabric is designed from a densely constructed weave that is brushed

on both sides to create air pockets. These air pockets in the fabric trap and retain body heat, but not

moisture.

Thermoplastic - a plastic that is soft and pliable when heated without any change of the inherent

properties.

Thread Count - The actual number of warp ends and filling picks per inch in a woven cloth. In knitted

fabric, thread count implies the number of wales or ribs.

Tipping - a dyed stripe in a contrasting color, often around the collar or sleeve hems of a polo to add a

unique accent to the shirt's fashion.

Tone-on-Tone Jacquard Collar - See Jacquard Knit. The two colors being used are the same.

Tricot - a plain warp-knitted fabric of nylon, wool, rayon, silk, or cotton with a close elastic knit. Often

used in athletic jerseys or as a lining material.

Tricot Lining - A very lightweight nylon lining often used in shorts.

Triple-Needle Stitched - See Double-Needle stitched but with 3 stitches.

Tubular Collar - Collar which is knit in a tube form so it has no seams.

Tubular knit - a golf shirt style with no side seams. The bottom is rounded all around.

Tuck-In Tails - A shirt constructed so the back hem is longer than the front. This aids in keeping the

shirt tucked-in during strenuous activities.

Tuck Stitch - Refers to the look of the knit where some stitches are actually under the other stitches.

Gives the shirt a waffle-weave type texture and look.

Twill Tape Placket Lining - Twill tape is attached to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect.

Twill - A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish.

Two-ply - Ply is a term to describe a yarn that has more than one end to make up the overall yarn.

Having a thickness made up of two layers or strands. Adds durability, weight and quality.

Underarm Grommets - Small holes in the armpit area to allow breathability and air circulation.



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Unconstructed - an unconstructed cap has a relaxed fit without backing. It fits closely to the wearer's

head.

Unstructured - A low profile cap style with a natural low sloping crown. No buckram has been added to

the crown.

V Patch - A section of material in a V shape that is sewn onto a garment directly under the collarette.

Can provide support against stretching the neck opening and is also a style component.

Vents, Front and Back - Allow for breathability and may aid in ease of decoration, allowing the

garment to be hooped and embroidered with no show-through on the inside of the garment. Some

vents are tacked down and are for fashion purposes only.

Waffle Weave / Knit - A waffle, or square pattern, knit or woven into a garment.

Washer Nylon - A nylon garment treated with a special finish to produce a crinkled effect.

Waterproof - A garment that is seam-sealed and able to withstand a specific amount of water pressure.

Waterproofness - the ability of fabric to withstand penetration by water. Conventional waterproof

fabrics are generally coated with chemicals or laminated with a film that closes the pores in fabric. (See

waterproof/breathable).

Waterproof/breathable - ability to keep water from penetrating but permits water vapor to pass

through. There are over 200 fabrics of this type available today, offering a varied combination of

waterproofness and water vapor permeability.

Water repellency - the ability to resist penetration by water. Not as rigorous a standard as

waterproofness. Water repellent fabrics cause water to bead up on their surfaces while allowing

insensible perspiration to pass through. Water beads up and rolls off a water-repellent fabric.

Water resistant - a treatment to fabric that actually allows water to "bead" and fall off a garment.

Weather resistant - a loose term referring primarily to a fabric's wind-resistant and water-repellent

properties. Water-resistant fabrics are those that resist the penetration of water. The greater the force

of impact as the water hits the fabric surface, the greater the likelihood that it will penetrate the fabric.

Welt cuffs - cuffs on short sleeve garments formed from a single ply of ribbed fabric with a finished

edge. Fabric for welt cuffs is knit in a bolder stitch construction than that of standard 1 x 1 ribs.

Welt Collar and/or Cuffs - A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on

sport shirts and short sleeve garments.



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Wickability - The ability of a fiber or a fabric to disperse moisture and allow it to pass through to the

surface of the fabric, so that evaporation can take place.

Window pane - a checkered, plaid like pattern that is characterized by having vertical and horizontal

lines that intersect, creating the appearance of a window pane.

Wood-Tone Buttons - Buttons that simulate a wood appearance.

Woven - fabric constructed by the interlacing of two or more sets of yarns at right angles to each other.

Wrinkle-free - the basic process for imparting the wrinkle free finish into fabric involves applying a resin

into the fabric, drying and curing at extremely high temperatures to the desired dimension, scouring to

remove any residual chemicals, and final drying. The application and curing of wrinkle-free may occur

before or after the garments are produced. "Precured wrinkle-free" means that the finish has been

applied to the fabric before the garment has been manufactured. Because the "postcure wrinkle-free"

means that the finish has been applied after the garment has been manufactured and because the

"postcure wrinkle-free" process is set into the final, pressed garment, it is more popular.

Yarn-Dyed - Yarn that has been dyed prior to the weaving or knitting of the garment.

Yoke Back - A piece of fabric that connects the back of the garment to the shoulders. This allows the

garment to lay flat.

Zipper Garage - A flap of material located at the collar to keep the zipper pull away from your skin.

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