anguilla beyond the beach 3000 years of island heritage
TRANSCRIPT
Anguilla Beyond the Beach 3000 Years of Island Heritage
By Lillian Azevedo
2
The One-Page History of Anguilla
By Lillian Azevedo
Copyrightcopy2012
All rights reserved no part of this publication The One-Page History may be reproduced
stored in a retrieval system transmitted in any form or by any means electronic mechanical
photocopying recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the author
Lillian Azevedo
3
Acknowledgements 4
Timeline of Anguilla 5
History 6
Anguilla before Columbus 7
Fountain Cavern 8
Settling Anguilla 9
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution 10
The 1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack 11
Piracy 12
Smuggling 13
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay 14
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion 15
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla 16
The Anguilla Revolution 17
Plantations 18
The Planterrsquos House 19
Wallblake House 20
Building a Plantation 21
Life on a Plantation Planters 22
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants 23
Fresh Water ndash Anguillarsquos Staff of Life 24
Slavery on Anguilla 25
Life in the 1800s 26
Life in the 1900s 27
The Sea 28
Maritime Heritage 29
Shipwrecks 30
Artificial Reefs 31
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla 32
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo 33
Migration and Santo Domingo 34
The Warspite 35
Boat Racing 36
Off Island Cays 37
Industries 38
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950 39
Sugar Production c1730-1800 40
Salt Production 1600s-1983 41
Mining 1860-1890 42
Fishing 43
Boatbuilding 44
Tourism 45
Natural History 46
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate) 47
Hurricane Donna 48
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens 49
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo 50
Exploring Anguilla and Additional Resources 51
Introduction to Anguilla Heritage Trail 52
Heritage Trail Map 53
Additional Reading and On-line Resources 54
Table of Contents
4
Forward
On behalf of the Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society it is with
great pleasure that I write the foreword to this book The One-Page History of
Anguilla I must begin by complimenting Lillian Azevedo on this great
publication
This book is a valuable addition to the growing compendium of books on
Anguillarsquos history From her background in cultural anthropology and
archaeology and as a diligent researcher Lilli has compiled a text that
touches on all the significant periods of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural
history
The book will be a valuable resource for those involved in promoting
heritage tourism While it came out of Lillirsquos involvement with the Anguilla
Heritage Trail Project this book will have a much broader appeal
It is an interesting and uncomplicated book giving a well researched and
factual account of Anguillarsquos history As such it will be a useful teaching
resource for lower secondary students While the important historical events
are documented the book also expounds on the social economic and
cultural environment in which these events took place and as such is an ideal
social studies text It is also an easy read for those who simply need a quick
overview of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural history
The liberal use of pictures and drawings means it can grab the imagination
and hold the attention of children of all ages It is a must have for all
Anguillian homes and all those visitors interested in taking back a
meaningful souvenir of their visit
Kenn Banks OBE
President
Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society
Above Anguilla is a 34mi2 island located in the Lesser Antilles
Frontispiece Historic Wallblake House photo co Steve Garlick
5
Timeline of Anguilla
2000BC Amerindians settle Anguilla At one time there were more than 19 Amerindian villages on Anguilla
1493 Columbus discovers the Leeward Islands Early observers write of Anguilla ldquoIt was filled with alligators and other noxious animalsrdquo
1650 The English land and begin family farming without a Royal Charter
1656 The lsquoCaribsrsquo attack the new settlers killing most of the menfolk and making off with the women and children
1667 Governor William Willoughby arrives from Barbados with new settlers Anguillarsquos only crops are salt and tobacco
1698 Spanish and French pirates attack
1699 Captain Kidd visits Anguilla
1744 Deputy Governor Arthur Hodge invades St Martin
1745 The French in reprisal come with 700 men in various small craft At Crocus Bay Captain Hodge defeats the French
1796 On the 26th November two French war ships La Valliante and Decius land their troops at Rendezvous Bay on November 27th In a final stand at Sandy Hill the
Anguillians attack and pursue the French who retreat and attempt to embark their troops and wounded
1807 Prohibition of slave trade
18245 Great Britain annexes Anguilla to St Kitts and Nevis Anguillians continuously protest the decision which made Anguilla administratively dependent on St Kitts
Petitions are sent to Great Britain in 1825 1873 1935 1958 and 1966 but are ignored eventually leading to the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
1834 Slavery is abolished
1850 Anguilla labourers dig and dive for phosphate on Sombrero Island leading to a higher standard of living
1860 Many free slaves return and settle the abandoned estates Anguillian schooners become famous throughout the Caribbean for their craftsmanship
1890 FAMINE There is prolonged drought repeated crop failure and a lack of seeds Livestock perish
1967 REVOLUTION
January 26th Colonel Bradshaw St Kittsrsquo Chief Minister threatens that Anguillians will have to eat one anotherrsquos bones and that he will turn Anguilla into a desert
July 11th Referendum in favour of secession
December 4th British delegation consisting of 2 MPs comes to Anguilla set up interim administration for 1 year
1969 March 11th FCO minister arrives in Anguilla After confrontation R Webster demands that Mr Whitlock leave the Island immediately
March 19th 2 British Frigates land 250 paratroopers accompanied by 50 London metropolitan police officers without incident
September Paratroopers are replaced by the Field Squadron and Royal Engineers
1976 12th February Constitution of Anguilla signed in London
1980 December 19th Anguilla formally becomes a British dependency Today the Island remains a UK Overseas Territory
6
History
7
Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered
by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts
from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers
were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use
pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials
including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were
imported complete andor crafted locally
Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla
together with pottery forms and the development of
chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these
people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)
Trade
They imported raw materials including volcanic stones
from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis
which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles
Spirituality
Believing that humans originated from caves and the
world was divided into three spheres (caves where
humans came from subterranean waters where the
ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they
carved and painted images of their deities including
Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the
rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved
examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)
and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)
What they ate
The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition
to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America
Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as
flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared
from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest
indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals
when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians
rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They
fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna
Where did they go
The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla
date from the 1500s By the time the English
created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had
either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery
in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely
they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground
and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked
natural defences to common European ailments
Diseases including influenza measles and
typhoid devastated populations and there is no
evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla
when it was discovered by Europeans
Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)
(AAHS Collection)
Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall
Anguilla before Columbus
Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)
Zemi
excavated on
Anguilla
(AAHS)
8
Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger
What is the Fountain
The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two
freshwater pools and
is a natural habitat for
bats and other species
Carved and painted
onto the cavernrsquos
stalactites are
Amerindian glyphs
and carvings
Location
While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and
archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial
centre there were several nearby villages including
a large settlement on Shoal Bay East
Amerindian Beliefs
Caves were ideologically important to the Taino
who believed that all humankind originated from
a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept
inside during the day and came out as bats during
the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla
archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a
dozen petroglyphs
The largest and most impressive by far was a
larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of
the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti
Translated from the Arawak language the name
roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the
sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According
to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the
goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden
years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th
Century According to the traditional view two
forces contributed to the decline and depopulation
of Anguilla and the region in general From the
south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians
expanded into the region from about AD1200 and
at the end of the 15th-century diseases were
introduced into the region by European explorers
By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from
Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few
remaining Amerindians in the region
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain Cavern
9
European Visits Before Settlement
The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in
1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in
1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed
through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He
reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed
before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St
Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623
They established the first English colony in the West
Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from
there the English colonized Nevis Antigua
Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and
Anguilla
The Dutch
The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as
a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a
natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three
ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small
fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the
Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St
Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla
fort for materials to repair their settlement in
Phillipsburg
1650
In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis
came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo
and without an official commission or charter We
do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla
but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By
1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to
70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun
in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in
1649 The English Civil War produced refugees
Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been
an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported
that a few English families had settled where the
island was widest around a lake were raising
livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla
had apparently recovered from the Amerindian
attack a decade earlier
A Persistent Spirit
Despite hardships the struggling settlement was
never abandoned The Anguillian family name
Richardson dates from this period
Little is known about these early farmers Using
contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on
other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions
would have consisted of little more than an old
chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks
some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book
or pamphlet
Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt
pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts
Settling Anguilla
10
1700s
As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain
amount of political autonomy with fairly lax
guidance and control being exercised by the home
government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown
on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less
than 100 years and was replaced by cotton
In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the
following year the French retaliated by landing a
party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach
surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back
to the French at the end of the war but many
Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St
Martin where their descendants live today
Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo
Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined
the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This
prosperity was short-lived
During the French Revolution in 1796 the French
invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better
location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force
destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus
Bay
The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy
Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival
of an English frigate saved many citizens from
would have likely been a bloody execution Still the
Island was devastated and the economy would take
over a century to recover The surviving French
prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave
in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black
stones
1800s
Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by
England into a political union with St Kitts and
Nevis and lost much of its autonomy
Sugar continued to be produced until after
emancipation when it became a victim of economic
change taking place in the Caribbean
The great drought of the late 1800s brought
tremendous hardship to the island Many
Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the
years emigration became a way of life for many
During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in
economic turmoil Property changed hands and
many former slaves become land owners While
some political reforms were instituted in 1936
universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not
achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla
KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is
one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s
Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
2
The One-Page History of Anguilla
By Lillian Azevedo
Copyrightcopy2012
All rights reserved no part of this publication The One-Page History may be reproduced
stored in a retrieval system transmitted in any form or by any means electronic mechanical
photocopying recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the author
Lillian Azevedo
3
Acknowledgements 4
Timeline of Anguilla 5
History 6
Anguilla before Columbus 7
Fountain Cavern 8
Settling Anguilla 9
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution 10
The 1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack 11
Piracy 12
Smuggling 13
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay 14
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion 15
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla 16
The Anguilla Revolution 17
Plantations 18
The Planterrsquos House 19
Wallblake House 20
Building a Plantation 21
Life on a Plantation Planters 22
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants 23
Fresh Water ndash Anguillarsquos Staff of Life 24
Slavery on Anguilla 25
Life in the 1800s 26
Life in the 1900s 27
The Sea 28
Maritime Heritage 29
Shipwrecks 30
Artificial Reefs 31
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla 32
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo 33
Migration and Santo Domingo 34
The Warspite 35
Boat Racing 36
Off Island Cays 37
Industries 38
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950 39
Sugar Production c1730-1800 40
Salt Production 1600s-1983 41
Mining 1860-1890 42
Fishing 43
Boatbuilding 44
Tourism 45
Natural History 46
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate) 47
Hurricane Donna 48
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens 49
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo 50
Exploring Anguilla and Additional Resources 51
Introduction to Anguilla Heritage Trail 52
Heritage Trail Map 53
Additional Reading and On-line Resources 54
Table of Contents
4
Forward
On behalf of the Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society it is with
great pleasure that I write the foreword to this book The One-Page History of
Anguilla I must begin by complimenting Lillian Azevedo on this great
publication
This book is a valuable addition to the growing compendium of books on
Anguillarsquos history From her background in cultural anthropology and
archaeology and as a diligent researcher Lilli has compiled a text that
touches on all the significant periods of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural
history
The book will be a valuable resource for those involved in promoting
heritage tourism While it came out of Lillirsquos involvement with the Anguilla
Heritage Trail Project this book will have a much broader appeal
It is an interesting and uncomplicated book giving a well researched and
factual account of Anguillarsquos history As such it will be a useful teaching
resource for lower secondary students While the important historical events
are documented the book also expounds on the social economic and
cultural environment in which these events took place and as such is an ideal
social studies text It is also an easy read for those who simply need a quick
overview of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural history
The liberal use of pictures and drawings means it can grab the imagination
and hold the attention of children of all ages It is a must have for all
Anguillian homes and all those visitors interested in taking back a
meaningful souvenir of their visit
Kenn Banks OBE
President
Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society
Above Anguilla is a 34mi2 island located in the Lesser Antilles
Frontispiece Historic Wallblake House photo co Steve Garlick
5
Timeline of Anguilla
2000BC Amerindians settle Anguilla At one time there were more than 19 Amerindian villages on Anguilla
1493 Columbus discovers the Leeward Islands Early observers write of Anguilla ldquoIt was filled with alligators and other noxious animalsrdquo
1650 The English land and begin family farming without a Royal Charter
1656 The lsquoCaribsrsquo attack the new settlers killing most of the menfolk and making off with the women and children
1667 Governor William Willoughby arrives from Barbados with new settlers Anguillarsquos only crops are salt and tobacco
1698 Spanish and French pirates attack
1699 Captain Kidd visits Anguilla
1744 Deputy Governor Arthur Hodge invades St Martin
1745 The French in reprisal come with 700 men in various small craft At Crocus Bay Captain Hodge defeats the French
1796 On the 26th November two French war ships La Valliante and Decius land their troops at Rendezvous Bay on November 27th In a final stand at Sandy Hill the
Anguillians attack and pursue the French who retreat and attempt to embark their troops and wounded
1807 Prohibition of slave trade
18245 Great Britain annexes Anguilla to St Kitts and Nevis Anguillians continuously protest the decision which made Anguilla administratively dependent on St Kitts
Petitions are sent to Great Britain in 1825 1873 1935 1958 and 1966 but are ignored eventually leading to the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
1834 Slavery is abolished
1850 Anguilla labourers dig and dive for phosphate on Sombrero Island leading to a higher standard of living
1860 Many free slaves return and settle the abandoned estates Anguillian schooners become famous throughout the Caribbean for their craftsmanship
1890 FAMINE There is prolonged drought repeated crop failure and a lack of seeds Livestock perish
1967 REVOLUTION
January 26th Colonel Bradshaw St Kittsrsquo Chief Minister threatens that Anguillians will have to eat one anotherrsquos bones and that he will turn Anguilla into a desert
July 11th Referendum in favour of secession
December 4th British delegation consisting of 2 MPs comes to Anguilla set up interim administration for 1 year
1969 March 11th FCO minister arrives in Anguilla After confrontation R Webster demands that Mr Whitlock leave the Island immediately
March 19th 2 British Frigates land 250 paratroopers accompanied by 50 London metropolitan police officers without incident
September Paratroopers are replaced by the Field Squadron and Royal Engineers
1976 12th February Constitution of Anguilla signed in London
1980 December 19th Anguilla formally becomes a British dependency Today the Island remains a UK Overseas Territory
6
History
7
Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered
by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts
from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers
were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use
pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials
including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were
imported complete andor crafted locally
Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla
together with pottery forms and the development of
chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these
people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)
Trade
They imported raw materials including volcanic stones
from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis
which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles
Spirituality
Believing that humans originated from caves and the
world was divided into three spheres (caves where
humans came from subterranean waters where the
ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they
carved and painted images of their deities including
Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the
rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved
examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)
and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)
What they ate
The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition
to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America
Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as
flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared
from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest
indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals
when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians
rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They
fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna
Where did they go
The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla
date from the 1500s By the time the English
created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had
either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery
in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely
they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground
and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked
natural defences to common European ailments
Diseases including influenza measles and
typhoid devastated populations and there is no
evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla
when it was discovered by Europeans
Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)
(AAHS Collection)
Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall
Anguilla before Columbus
Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)
Zemi
excavated on
Anguilla
(AAHS)
8
Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger
What is the Fountain
The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two
freshwater pools and
is a natural habitat for
bats and other species
Carved and painted
onto the cavernrsquos
stalactites are
Amerindian glyphs
and carvings
Location
While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and
archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial
centre there were several nearby villages including
a large settlement on Shoal Bay East
Amerindian Beliefs
Caves were ideologically important to the Taino
who believed that all humankind originated from
a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept
inside during the day and came out as bats during
the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla
archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a
dozen petroglyphs
The largest and most impressive by far was a
larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of
the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti
Translated from the Arawak language the name
roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the
sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According
to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the
goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden
years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th
Century According to the traditional view two
forces contributed to the decline and depopulation
of Anguilla and the region in general From the
south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians
expanded into the region from about AD1200 and
at the end of the 15th-century diseases were
introduced into the region by European explorers
By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from
Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few
remaining Amerindians in the region
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain Cavern
9
European Visits Before Settlement
The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in
1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in
1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed
through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He
reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed
before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St
Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623
They established the first English colony in the West
Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from
there the English colonized Nevis Antigua
Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and
Anguilla
The Dutch
The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as
a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a
natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three
ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small
fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the
Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St
Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla
fort for materials to repair their settlement in
Phillipsburg
1650
In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis
came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo
and without an official commission or charter We
do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla
but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By
1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to
70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun
in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in
1649 The English Civil War produced refugees
Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been
an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported
that a few English families had settled where the
island was widest around a lake were raising
livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla
had apparently recovered from the Amerindian
attack a decade earlier
A Persistent Spirit
Despite hardships the struggling settlement was
never abandoned The Anguillian family name
Richardson dates from this period
Little is known about these early farmers Using
contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on
other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions
would have consisted of little more than an old
chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks
some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book
or pamphlet
Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt
pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts
Settling Anguilla
10
1700s
As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain
amount of political autonomy with fairly lax
guidance and control being exercised by the home
government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown
on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less
than 100 years and was replaced by cotton
In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the
following year the French retaliated by landing a
party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach
surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back
to the French at the end of the war but many
Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St
Martin where their descendants live today
Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo
Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined
the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This
prosperity was short-lived
During the French Revolution in 1796 the French
invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better
location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force
destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus
Bay
The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy
Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival
of an English frigate saved many citizens from
would have likely been a bloody execution Still the
Island was devastated and the economy would take
over a century to recover The surviving French
prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave
in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black
stones
1800s
Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by
England into a political union with St Kitts and
Nevis and lost much of its autonomy
Sugar continued to be produced until after
emancipation when it became a victim of economic
change taking place in the Caribbean
The great drought of the late 1800s brought
tremendous hardship to the island Many
Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the
years emigration became a way of life for many
During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in
economic turmoil Property changed hands and
many former slaves become land owners While
some political reforms were instituted in 1936
universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not
achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla
KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is
one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s
Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
3
Acknowledgements 4
Timeline of Anguilla 5
History 6
Anguilla before Columbus 7
Fountain Cavern 8
Settling Anguilla 9
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution 10
The 1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack 11
Piracy 12
Smuggling 13
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay 14
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion 15
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla 16
The Anguilla Revolution 17
Plantations 18
The Planterrsquos House 19
Wallblake House 20
Building a Plantation 21
Life on a Plantation Planters 22
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants 23
Fresh Water ndash Anguillarsquos Staff of Life 24
Slavery on Anguilla 25
Life in the 1800s 26
Life in the 1900s 27
The Sea 28
Maritime Heritage 29
Shipwrecks 30
Artificial Reefs 31
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla 32
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo 33
Migration and Santo Domingo 34
The Warspite 35
Boat Racing 36
Off Island Cays 37
Industries 38
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950 39
Sugar Production c1730-1800 40
Salt Production 1600s-1983 41
Mining 1860-1890 42
Fishing 43
Boatbuilding 44
Tourism 45
Natural History 46
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate) 47
Hurricane Donna 48
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens 49
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo 50
Exploring Anguilla and Additional Resources 51
Introduction to Anguilla Heritage Trail 52
Heritage Trail Map 53
Additional Reading and On-line Resources 54
Table of Contents
4
Forward
On behalf of the Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society it is with
great pleasure that I write the foreword to this book The One-Page History of
Anguilla I must begin by complimenting Lillian Azevedo on this great
publication
This book is a valuable addition to the growing compendium of books on
Anguillarsquos history From her background in cultural anthropology and
archaeology and as a diligent researcher Lilli has compiled a text that
touches on all the significant periods of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural
history
The book will be a valuable resource for those involved in promoting
heritage tourism While it came out of Lillirsquos involvement with the Anguilla
Heritage Trail Project this book will have a much broader appeal
It is an interesting and uncomplicated book giving a well researched and
factual account of Anguillarsquos history As such it will be a useful teaching
resource for lower secondary students While the important historical events
are documented the book also expounds on the social economic and
cultural environment in which these events took place and as such is an ideal
social studies text It is also an easy read for those who simply need a quick
overview of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural history
The liberal use of pictures and drawings means it can grab the imagination
and hold the attention of children of all ages It is a must have for all
Anguillian homes and all those visitors interested in taking back a
meaningful souvenir of their visit
Kenn Banks OBE
President
Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society
Above Anguilla is a 34mi2 island located in the Lesser Antilles
Frontispiece Historic Wallblake House photo co Steve Garlick
5
Timeline of Anguilla
2000BC Amerindians settle Anguilla At one time there were more than 19 Amerindian villages on Anguilla
1493 Columbus discovers the Leeward Islands Early observers write of Anguilla ldquoIt was filled with alligators and other noxious animalsrdquo
1650 The English land and begin family farming without a Royal Charter
1656 The lsquoCaribsrsquo attack the new settlers killing most of the menfolk and making off with the women and children
1667 Governor William Willoughby arrives from Barbados with new settlers Anguillarsquos only crops are salt and tobacco
1698 Spanish and French pirates attack
1699 Captain Kidd visits Anguilla
1744 Deputy Governor Arthur Hodge invades St Martin
1745 The French in reprisal come with 700 men in various small craft At Crocus Bay Captain Hodge defeats the French
1796 On the 26th November two French war ships La Valliante and Decius land their troops at Rendezvous Bay on November 27th In a final stand at Sandy Hill the
Anguillians attack and pursue the French who retreat and attempt to embark their troops and wounded
1807 Prohibition of slave trade
18245 Great Britain annexes Anguilla to St Kitts and Nevis Anguillians continuously protest the decision which made Anguilla administratively dependent on St Kitts
Petitions are sent to Great Britain in 1825 1873 1935 1958 and 1966 but are ignored eventually leading to the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
1834 Slavery is abolished
1850 Anguilla labourers dig and dive for phosphate on Sombrero Island leading to a higher standard of living
1860 Many free slaves return and settle the abandoned estates Anguillian schooners become famous throughout the Caribbean for their craftsmanship
1890 FAMINE There is prolonged drought repeated crop failure and a lack of seeds Livestock perish
1967 REVOLUTION
January 26th Colonel Bradshaw St Kittsrsquo Chief Minister threatens that Anguillians will have to eat one anotherrsquos bones and that he will turn Anguilla into a desert
July 11th Referendum in favour of secession
December 4th British delegation consisting of 2 MPs comes to Anguilla set up interim administration for 1 year
1969 March 11th FCO minister arrives in Anguilla After confrontation R Webster demands that Mr Whitlock leave the Island immediately
March 19th 2 British Frigates land 250 paratroopers accompanied by 50 London metropolitan police officers without incident
September Paratroopers are replaced by the Field Squadron and Royal Engineers
1976 12th February Constitution of Anguilla signed in London
1980 December 19th Anguilla formally becomes a British dependency Today the Island remains a UK Overseas Territory
6
History
7
Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered
by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts
from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers
were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use
pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials
including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were
imported complete andor crafted locally
Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla
together with pottery forms and the development of
chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these
people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)
Trade
They imported raw materials including volcanic stones
from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis
which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles
Spirituality
Believing that humans originated from caves and the
world was divided into three spheres (caves where
humans came from subterranean waters where the
ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they
carved and painted images of their deities including
Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the
rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved
examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)
and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)
What they ate
The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition
to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America
Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as
flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared
from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest
indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals
when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians
rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They
fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna
Where did they go
The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla
date from the 1500s By the time the English
created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had
either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery
in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely
they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground
and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked
natural defences to common European ailments
Diseases including influenza measles and
typhoid devastated populations and there is no
evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla
when it was discovered by Europeans
Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)
(AAHS Collection)
Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall
Anguilla before Columbus
Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)
Zemi
excavated on
Anguilla
(AAHS)
8
Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger
What is the Fountain
The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two
freshwater pools and
is a natural habitat for
bats and other species
Carved and painted
onto the cavernrsquos
stalactites are
Amerindian glyphs
and carvings
Location
While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and
archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial
centre there were several nearby villages including
a large settlement on Shoal Bay East
Amerindian Beliefs
Caves were ideologically important to the Taino
who believed that all humankind originated from
a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept
inside during the day and came out as bats during
the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla
archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a
dozen petroglyphs
The largest and most impressive by far was a
larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of
the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti
Translated from the Arawak language the name
roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the
sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According
to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the
goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden
years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th
Century According to the traditional view two
forces contributed to the decline and depopulation
of Anguilla and the region in general From the
south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians
expanded into the region from about AD1200 and
at the end of the 15th-century diseases were
introduced into the region by European explorers
By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from
Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few
remaining Amerindians in the region
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain Cavern
9
European Visits Before Settlement
The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in
1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in
1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed
through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He
reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed
before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St
Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623
They established the first English colony in the West
Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from
there the English colonized Nevis Antigua
Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and
Anguilla
The Dutch
The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as
a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a
natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three
ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small
fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the
Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St
Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla
fort for materials to repair their settlement in
Phillipsburg
1650
In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis
came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo
and without an official commission or charter We
do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla
but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By
1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to
70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun
in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in
1649 The English Civil War produced refugees
Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been
an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported
that a few English families had settled where the
island was widest around a lake were raising
livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla
had apparently recovered from the Amerindian
attack a decade earlier
A Persistent Spirit
Despite hardships the struggling settlement was
never abandoned The Anguillian family name
Richardson dates from this period
Little is known about these early farmers Using
contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on
other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions
would have consisted of little more than an old
chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks
some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book
or pamphlet
Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt
pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts
Settling Anguilla
10
1700s
As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain
amount of political autonomy with fairly lax
guidance and control being exercised by the home
government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown
on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less
than 100 years and was replaced by cotton
In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the
following year the French retaliated by landing a
party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach
surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back
to the French at the end of the war but many
Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St
Martin where their descendants live today
Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo
Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined
the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This
prosperity was short-lived
During the French Revolution in 1796 the French
invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better
location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force
destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus
Bay
The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy
Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival
of an English frigate saved many citizens from
would have likely been a bloody execution Still the
Island was devastated and the economy would take
over a century to recover The surviving French
prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave
in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black
stones
1800s
Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by
England into a political union with St Kitts and
Nevis and lost much of its autonomy
Sugar continued to be produced until after
emancipation when it became a victim of economic
change taking place in the Caribbean
The great drought of the late 1800s brought
tremendous hardship to the island Many
Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the
years emigration became a way of life for many
During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in
economic turmoil Property changed hands and
many former slaves become land owners While
some political reforms were instituted in 1936
universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not
achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla
KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is
one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s
Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
4
Forward
On behalf of the Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society it is with
great pleasure that I write the foreword to this book The One-Page History of
Anguilla I must begin by complimenting Lillian Azevedo on this great
publication
This book is a valuable addition to the growing compendium of books on
Anguillarsquos history From her background in cultural anthropology and
archaeology and as a diligent researcher Lilli has compiled a text that
touches on all the significant periods of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural
history
The book will be a valuable resource for those involved in promoting
heritage tourism While it came out of Lillirsquos involvement with the Anguilla
Heritage Trail Project this book will have a much broader appeal
It is an interesting and uncomplicated book giving a well researched and
factual account of Anguillarsquos history As such it will be a useful teaching
resource for lower secondary students While the important historical events
are documented the book also expounds on the social economic and
cultural environment in which these events took place and as such is an ideal
social studies text It is also an easy read for those who simply need a quick
overview of Anguillarsquos cultural and natural history
The liberal use of pictures and drawings means it can grab the imagination
and hold the attention of children of all ages It is a must have for all
Anguillian homes and all those visitors interested in taking back a
meaningful souvenir of their visit
Kenn Banks OBE
President
Anguilla Archaeological and Historical Society
Above Anguilla is a 34mi2 island located in the Lesser Antilles
Frontispiece Historic Wallblake House photo co Steve Garlick
5
Timeline of Anguilla
2000BC Amerindians settle Anguilla At one time there were more than 19 Amerindian villages on Anguilla
1493 Columbus discovers the Leeward Islands Early observers write of Anguilla ldquoIt was filled with alligators and other noxious animalsrdquo
1650 The English land and begin family farming without a Royal Charter
1656 The lsquoCaribsrsquo attack the new settlers killing most of the menfolk and making off with the women and children
1667 Governor William Willoughby arrives from Barbados with new settlers Anguillarsquos only crops are salt and tobacco
1698 Spanish and French pirates attack
1699 Captain Kidd visits Anguilla
1744 Deputy Governor Arthur Hodge invades St Martin
1745 The French in reprisal come with 700 men in various small craft At Crocus Bay Captain Hodge defeats the French
1796 On the 26th November two French war ships La Valliante and Decius land their troops at Rendezvous Bay on November 27th In a final stand at Sandy Hill the
Anguillians attack and pursue the French who retreat and attempt to embark their troops and wounded
1807 Prohibition of slave trade
18245 Great Britain annexes Anguilla to St Kitts and Nevis Anguillians continuously protest the decision which made Anguilla administratively dependent on St Kitts
Petitions are sent to Great Britain in 1825 1873 1935 1958 and 1966 but are ignored eventually leading to the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
1834 Slavery is abolished
1850 Anguilla labourers dig and dive for phosphate on Sombrero Island leading to a higher standard of living
1860 Many free slaves return and settle the abandoned estates Anguillian schooners become famous throughout the Caribbean for their craftsmanship
1890 FAMINE There is prolonged drought repeated crop failure and a lack of seeds Livestock perish
1967 REVOLUTION
January 26th Colonel Bradshaw St Kittsrsquo Chief Minister threatens that Anguillians will have to eat one anotherrsquos bones and that he will turn Anguilla into a desert
July 11th Referendum in favour of secession
December 4th British delegation consisting of 2 MPs comes to Anguilla set up interim administration for 1 year
1969 March 11th FCO minister arrives in Anguilla After confrontation R Webster demands that Mr Whitlock leave the Island immediately
March 19th 2 British Frigates land 250 paratroopers accompanied by 50 London metropolitan police officers without incident
September Paratroopers are replaced by the Field Squadron and Royal Engineers
1976 12th February Constitution of Anguilla signed in London
1980 December 19th Anguilla formally becomes a British dependency Today the Island remains a UK Overseas Territory
6
History
7
Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered
by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts
from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers
were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use
pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials
including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were
imported complete andor crafted locally
Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla
together with pottery forms and the development of
chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these
people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)
Trade
They imported raw materials including volcanic stones
from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis
which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles
Spirituality
Believing that humans originated from caves and the
world was divided into three spheres (caves where
humans came from subterranean waters where the
ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they
carved and painted images of their deities including
Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the
rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved
examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)
and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)
What they ate
The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition
to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America
Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as
flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared
from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest
indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals
when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians
rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They
fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna
Where did they go
The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla
date from the 1500s By the time the English
created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had
either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery
in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely
they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground
and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked
natural defences to common European ailments
Diseases including influenza measles and
typhoid devastated populations and there is no
evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla
when it was discovered by Europeans
Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)
(AAHS Collection)
Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall
Anguilla before Columbus
Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)
Zemi
excavated on
Anguilla
(AAHS)
8
Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger
What is the Fountain
The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two
freshwater pools and
is a natural habitat for
bats and other species
Carved and painted
onto the cavernrsquos
stalactites are
Amerindian glyphs
and carvings
Location
While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and
archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial
centre there were several nearby villages including
a large settlement on Shoal Bay East
Amerindian Beliefs
Caves were ideologically important to the Taino
who believed that all humankind originated from
a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept
inside during the day and came out as bats during
the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla
archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a
dozen petroglyphs
The largest and most impressive by far was a
larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of
the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti
Translated from the Arawak language the name
roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the
sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According
to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the
goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden
years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th
Century According to the traditional view two
forces contributed to the decline and depopulation
of Anguilla and the region in general From the
south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians
expanded into the region from about AD1200 and
at the end of the 15th-century diseases were
introduced into the region by European explorers
By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from
Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few
remaining Amerindians in the region
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain Cavern
9
European Visits Before Settlement
The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in
1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in
1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed
through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He
reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed
before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St
Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623
They established the first English colony in the West
Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from
there the English colonized Nevis Antigua
Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and
Anguilla
The Dutch
The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as
a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a
natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three
ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small
fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the
Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St
Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla
fort for materials to repair their settlement in
Phillipsburg
1650
In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis
came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo
and without an official commission or charter We
do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla
but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By
1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to
70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun
in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in
1649 The English Civil War produced refugees
Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been
an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported
that a few English families had settled where the
island was widest around a lake were raising
livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla
had apparently recovered from the Amerindian
attack a decade earlier
A Persistent Spirit
Despite hardships the struggling settlement was
never abandoned The Anguillian family name
Richardson dates from this period
Little is known about these early farmers Using
contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on
other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions
would have consisted of little more than an old
chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks
some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book
or pamphlet
Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt
pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts
Settling Anguilla
10
1700s
As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain
amount of political autonomy with fairly lax
guidance and control being exercised by the home
government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown
on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less
than 100 years and was replaced by cotton
In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the
following year the French retaliated by landing a
party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach
surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back
to the French at the end of the war but many
Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St
Martin where their descendants live today
Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo
Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined
the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This
prosperity was short-lived
During the French Revolution in 1796 the French
invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better
location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force
destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus
Bay
The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy
Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival
of an English frigate saved many citizens from
would have likely been a bloody execution Still the
Island was devastated and the economy would take
over a century to recover The surviving French
prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave
in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black
stones
1800s
Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by
England into a political union with St Kitts and
Nevis and lost much of its autonomy
Sugar continued to be produced until after
emancipation when it became a victim of economic
change taking place in the Caribbean
The great drought of the late 1800s brought
tremendous hardship to the island Many
Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the
years emigration became a way of life for many
During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in
economic turmoil Property changed hands and
many former slaves become land owners While
some political reforms were instituted in 1936
universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not
achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla
KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is
one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s
Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
5
Timeline of Anguilla
2000BC Amerindians settle Anguilla At one time there were more than 19 Amerindian villages on Anguilla
1493 Columbus discovers the Leeward Islands Early observers write of Anguilla ldquoIt was filled with alligators and other noxious animalsrdquo
1650 The English land and begin family farming without a Royal Charter
1656 The lsquoCaribsrsquo attack the new settlers killing most of the menfolk and making off with the women and children
1667 Governor William Willoughby arrives from Barbados with new settlers Anguillarsquos only crops are salt and tobacco
1698 Spanish and French pirates attack
1699 Captain Kidd visits Anguilla
1744 Deputy Governor Arthur Hodge invades St Martin
1745 The French in reprisal come with 700 men in various small craft At Crocus Bay Captain Hodge defeats the French
1796 On the 26th November two French war ships La Valliante and Decius land their troops at Rendezvous Bay on November 27th In a final stand at Sandy Hill the
Anguillians attack and pursue the French who retreat and attempt to embark their troops and wounded
1807 Prohibition of slave trade
18245 Great Britain annexes Anguilla to St Kitts and Nevis Anguillians continuously protest the decision which made Anguilla administratively dependent on St Kitts
Petitions are sent to Great Britain in 1825 1873 1935 1958 and 1966 but are ignored eventually leading to the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
1834 Slavery is abolished
1850 Anguilla labourers dig and dive for phosphate on Sombrero Island leading to a higher standard of living
1860 Many free slaves return and settle the abandoned estates Anguillian schooners become famous throughout the Caribbean for their craftsmanship
1890 FAMINE There is prolonged drought repeated crop failure and a lack of seeds Livestock perish
1967 REVOLUTION
January 26th Colonel Bradshaw St Kittsrsquo Chief Minister threatens that Anguillians will have to eat one anotherrsquos bones and that he will turn Anguilla into a desert
July 11th Referendum in favour of secession
December 4th British delegation consisting of 2 MPs comes to Anguilla set up interim administration for 1 year
1969 March 11th FCO minister arrives in Anguilla After confrontation R Webster demands that Mr Whitlock leave the Island immediately
March 19th 2 British Frigates land 250 paratroopers accompanied by 50 London metropolitan police officers without incident
September Paratroopers are replaced by the Field Squadron and Royal Engineers
1976 12th February Constitution of Anguilla signed in London
1980 December 19th Anguilla formally becomes a British dependency Today the Island remains a UK Overseas Territory
6
History
7
Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered
by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts
from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers
were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use
pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials
including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were
imported complete andor crafted locally
Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla
together with pottery forms and the development of
chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these
people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)
Trade
They imported raw materials including volcanic stones
from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis
which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles
Spirituality
Believing that humans originated from caves and the
world was divided into three spheres (caves where
humans came from subterranean waters where the
ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they
carved and painted images of their deities including
Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the
rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved
examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)
and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)
What they ate
The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition
to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America
Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as
flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared
from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest
indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals
when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians
rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They
fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna
Where did they go
The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla
date from the 1500s By the time the English
created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had
either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery
in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely
they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground
and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked
natural defences to common European ailments
Diseases including influenza measles and
typhoid devastated populations and there is no
evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla
when it was discovered by Europeans
Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)
(AAHS Collection)
Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall
Anguilla before Columbus
Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)
Zemi
excavated on
Anguilla
(AAHS)
8
Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger
What is the Fountain
The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two
freshwater pools and
is a natural habitat for
bats and other species
Carved and painted
onto the cavernrsquos
stalactites are
Amerindian glyphs
and carvings
Location
While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and
archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial
centre there were several nearby villages including
a large settlement on Shoal Bay East
Amerindian Beliefs
Caves were ideologically important to the Taino
who believed that all humankind originated from
a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept
inside during the day and came out as bats during
the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla
archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a
dozen petroglyphs
The largest and most impressive by far was a
larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of
the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti
Translated from the Arawak language the name
roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the
sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According
to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the
goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden
years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th
Century According to the traditional view two
forces contributed to the decline and depopulation
of Anguilla and the region in general From the
south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians
expanded into the region from about AD1200 and
at the end of the 15th-century diseases were
introduced into the region by European explorers
By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from
Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few
remaining Amerindians in the region
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain Cavern
9
European Visits Before Settlement
The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in
1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in
1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed
through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He
reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed
before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St
Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623
They established the first English colony in the West
Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from
there the English colonized Nevis Antigua
Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and
Anguilla
The Dutch
The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as
a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a
natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three
ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small
fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the
Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St
Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla
fort for materials to repair their settlement in
Phillipsburg
1650
In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis
came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo
and without an official commission or charter We
do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla
but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By
1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to
70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun
in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in
1649 The English Civil War produced refugees
Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been
an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported
that a few English families had settled where the
island was widest around a lake were raising
livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla
had apparently recovered from the Amerindian
attack a decade earlier
A Persistent Spirit
Despite hardships the struggling settlement was
never abandoned The Anguillian family name
Richardson dates from this period
Little is known about these early farmers Using
contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on
other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions
would have consisted of little more than an old
chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks
some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book
or pamphlet
Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt
pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts
Settling Anguilla
10
1700s
As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain
amount of political autonomy with fairly lax
guidance and control being exercised by the home
government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown
on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less
than 100 years and was replaced by cotton
In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the
following year the French retaliated by landing a
party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach
surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back
to the French at the end of the war but many
Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St
Martin where their descendants live today
Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo
Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined
the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This
prosperity was short-lived
During the French Revolution in 1796 the French
invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better
location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force
destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus
Bay
The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy
Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival
of an English frigate saved many citizens from
would have likely been a bloody execution Still the
Island was devastated and the economy would take
over a century to recover The surviving French
prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave
in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black
stones
1800s
Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by
England into a political union with St Kitts and
Nevis and lost much of its autonomy
Sugar continued to be produced until after
emancipation when it became a victim of economic
change taking place in the Caribbean
The great drought of the late 1800s brought
tremendous hardship to the island Many
Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the
years emigration became a way of life for many
During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in
economic turmoil Property changed hands and
many former slaves become land owners While
some political reforms were instituted in 1936
universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not
achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla
KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is
one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s
Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
6
History
7
Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered
by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts
from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers
were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use
pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials
including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were
imported complete andor crafted locally
Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla
together with pottery forms and the development of
chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these
people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)
Trade
They imported raw materials including volcanic stones
from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis
which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles
Spirituality
Believing that humans originated from caves and the
world was divided into three spheres (caves where
humans came from subterranean waters where the
ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they
carved and painted images of their deities including
Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the
rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved
examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)
and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)
What they ate
The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition
to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America
Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as
flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared
from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest
indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals
when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians
rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They
fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna
Where did they go
The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla
date from the 1500s By the time the English
created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had
either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery
in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely
they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground
and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked
natural defences to common European ailments
Diseases including influenza measles and
typhoid devastated populations and there is no
evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla
when it was discovered by Europeans
Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)
(AAHS Collection)
Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall
Anguilla before Columbus
Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)
Zemi
excavated on
Anguilla
(AAHS)
8
Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger
What is the Fountain
The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two
freshwater pools and
is a natural habitat for
bats and other species
Carved and painted
onto the cavernrsquos
stalactites are
Amerindian glyphs
and carvings
Location
While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and
archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial
centre there were several nearby villages including
a large settlement on Shoal Bay East
Amerindian Beliefs
Caves were ideologically important to the Taino
who believed that all humankind originated from
a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept
inside during the day and came out as bats during
the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla
archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a
dozen petroglyphs
The largest and most impressive by far was a
larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of
the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti
Translated from the Arawak language the name
roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the
sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According
to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the
goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden
years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th
Century According to the traditional view two
forces contributed to the decline and depopulation
of Anguilla and the region in general From the
south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians
expanded into the region from about AD1200 and
at the end of the 15th-century diseases were
introduced into the region by European explorers
By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from
Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few
remaining Amerindians in the region
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain Cavern
9
European Visits Before Settlement
The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in
1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in
1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed
through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He
reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed
before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St
Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623
They established the first English colony in the West
Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from
there the English colonized Nevis Antigua
Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and
Anguilla
The Dutch
The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as
a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a
natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three
ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small
fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the
Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St
Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla
fort for materials to repair their settlement in
Phillipsburg
1650
In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis
came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo
and without an official commission or charter We
do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla
but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By
1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to
70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun
in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in
1649 The English Civil War produced refugees
Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been
an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported
that a few English families had settled where the
island was widest around a lake were raising
livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla
had apparently recovered from the Amerindian
attack a decade earlier
A Persistent Spirit
Despite hardships the struggling settlement was
never abandoned The Anguillian family name
Richardson dates from this period
Little is known about these early farmers Using
contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on
other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions
would have consisted of little more than an old
chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks
some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book
or pamphlet
Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt
pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts
Settling Anguilla
10
1700s
As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain
amount of political autonomy with fairly lax
guidance and control being exercised by the home
government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown
on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less
than 100 years and was replaced by cotton
In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the
following year the French retaliated by landing a
party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach
surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back
to the French at the end of the war but many
Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St
Martin where their descendants live today
Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo
Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined
the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This
prosperity was short-lived
During the French Revolution in 1796 the French
invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better
location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force
destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus
Bay
The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy
Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival
of an English frigate saved many citizens from
would have likely been a bloody execution Still the
Island was devastated and the economy would take
over a century to recover The surviving French
prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave
in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black
stones
1800s
Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by
England into a political union with St Kitts and
Nevis and lost much of its autonomy
Sugar continued to be produced until after
emancipation when it became a victim of economic
change taking place in the Caribbean
The great drought of the late 1800s brought
tremendous hardship to the island Many
Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the
years emigration became a way of life for many
During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in
economic turmoil Property changed hands and
many former slaves become land owners While
some political reforms were instituted in 1936
universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not
achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla
KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is
one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s
Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
7
Around 4000 years ago Anguilla was discovered
by humans travelling by dugout canoes and rafts
from South Americarsquos mainland These earliest settlers
were pre-ceramic meaning they did not make or use
pottery but utilised stone-age technology Raw materials
including volcanic stones and finished artefacts were
imported complete andor crafted locally
Around 300AD a new culture emerged on Anguilla
together with pottery forms and the development of
chiefdoms Known variously as Taino or Arawak these
people named the Island Malliouhana (as in the Hotel)
Trade
They imported raw materials including volcanic stones
from which they fashioned spirit stones known as zemis
which they exported throughout the lesser Antilles
Spirituality
Believing that humans originated from caves and the
world was divided into three spheres (caves where
humans came from subterranean waters where the
ancestors dwelled and the sky where gods lived) they
carved and painted images of their deities including
Jocahu and Jaluca (The god of the sea and cassava and the
rainbow god [as in Cap Jaluca]) Today preserved
examples can be found in the Fountain Cavern (Shoal Bay)
and at Big Spring (Island Harbour)
What they ate
The Amerindians were a fisher-planter people In addition
to bringing cotton and tobacco from South America
Amerindians also introduced cassava and manioc (used as
flour) which they cultivated on small plots of land cleared
from what was then forest Today the iguana is the largest
indigenous land animal The absence of large land animals
when the Amerindians lived on Anguilla made the Indians
rely on the sea for over 90 of their animal protein They
fished both fish and pelagic species including tuna
Where did they go
The latest carbon dates recovered on Anguilla
date from the 1500s By the time the English
created a settlement in 1650 the Indians had
either been removed by the Spaniards to slavery
in Puerto Rico and Hispaniola or more likely
they had died in their villages at Sandy Ground
and Rendezvous Bay Amerindians lacked
natural defences to common European ailments
Diseases including influenza measles and
typhoid devastated populations and there is no
evidence that anyone was living on Anguilla
when it was discovered by Europeans
Carved mask from a Queen Conch Shell (900-1500AD)
(AAHS Collection)
Painting by Penny Slinger on Display in Anguillarsquos airport arrivals hall
Anguilla before Columbus
Stone Axe approx 10 cm (2000BC-500BC)
Zemi
excavated on
Anguilla
(AAHS)
8
Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger
What is the Fountain
The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two
freshwater pools and
is a natural habitat for
bats and other species
Carved and painted
onto the cavernrsquos
stalactites are
Amerindian glyphs
and carvings
Location
While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and
archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial
centre there were several nearby villages including
a large settlement on Shoal Bay East
Amerindian Beliefs
Caves were ideologically important to the Taino
who believed that all humankind originated from
a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept
inside during the day and came out as bats during
the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla
archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a
dozen petroglyphs
The largest and most impressive by far was a
larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of
the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti
Translated from the Arawak language the name
roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the
sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According
to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the
goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden
years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th
Century According to the traditional view two
forces contributed to the decline and depopulation
of Anguilla and the region in general From the
south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians
expanded into the region from about AD1200 and
at the end of the 15th-century diseases were
introduced into the region by European explorers
By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from
Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few
remaining Amerindians in the region
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain Cavern
9
European Visits Before Settlement
The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in
1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in
1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed
through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He
reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed
before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St
Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623
They established the first English colony in the West
Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from
there the English colonized Nevis Antigua
Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and
Anguilla
The Dutch
The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as
a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a
natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three
ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small
fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the
Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St
Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla
fort for materials to repair their settlement in
Phillipsburg
1650
In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis
came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo
and without an official commission or charter We
do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla
but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By
1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to
70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun
in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in
1649 The English Civil War produced refugees
Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been
an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported
that a few English families had settled where the
island was widest around a lake were raising
livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla
had apparently recovered from the Amerindian
attack a decade earlier
A Persistent Spirit
Despite hardships the struggling settlement was
never abandoned The Anguillian family name
Richardson dates from this period
Little is known about these early farmers Using
contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on
other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions
would have consisted of little more than an old
chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks
some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book
or pamphlet
Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt
pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts
Settling Anguilla
10
1700s
As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain
amount of political autonomy with fairly lax
guidance and control being exercised by the home
government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown
on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less
than 100 years and was replaced by cotton
In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the
following year the French retaliated by landing a
party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach
surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back
to the French at the end of the war but many
Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St
Martin where their descendants live today
Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo
Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined
the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This
prosperity was short-lived
During the French Revolution in 1796 the French
invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better
location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force
destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus
Bay
The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy
Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival
of an English frigate saved many citizens from
would have likely been a bloody execution Still the
Island was devastated and the economy would take
over a century to recover The surviving French
prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave
in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black
stones
1800s
Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by
England into a political union with St Kitts and
Nevis and lost much of its autonomy
Sugar continued to be produced until after
emancipation when it became a victim of economic
change taking place in the Caribbean
The great drought of the late 1800s brought
tremendous hardship to the island Many
Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the
years emigration became a way of life for many
During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in
economic turmoil Property changed hands and
many former slaves become land owners While
some political reforms were instituted in 1936
universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not
achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla
KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is
one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s
Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
8
Yocahu Amerindian deity Painting by Penny Slinger
What is the Fountain
The Fountain is a limestone cavern containing two
freshwater pools and
is a natural habitat for
bats and other species
Carved and painted
onto the cavernrsquos
stalactites are
Amerindian glyphs
and carvings
Location
While Amerindians did not live in the Fountain and
archaeologists believe it was purely a ceremonial
centre there were several nearby villages including
a large settlement on Shoal Bay East
Amerindian Beliefs
Caves were ideologically important to the Taino
who believed that all humankind originated from
a cave and that the spirits of their ancestors slept
inside during the day and came out as bats during
the night Inside the Fountain Cavern on Anguilla
archaeologists in 1979 discovered more than a
dozen petroglyphs
The largest and most impressive by far was a
larger than life stalactite carved in the likeness of
the Taiacuteno supreme deity Yoacutecahu Bagua Maoacuterocoti
Translated from the Arawak language the name
roughly means lsquothe spirit of the cassava and the
sea which has no masculine forebearrsquo According
to legend Yoacutecahu had a mother (who was the
goddess of fresh water) but no father The golden
years of Amerindian Anguilla lasted until the 15th
Century According to the traditional view two
forces contributed to the decline and depopulation
of Anguilla and the region in general From the
south a Carib-speaking group of Amerindians
expanded into the region from about AD1200 and
at the end of the 15th-century diseases were
introduced into the region by European explorers
By 1518 a smallpox epidemic which spread from
Santo Domingo to Puerto Rico decimated the few
remaining Amerindians in the region
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain petroglyphs
Fountain Cavern
9
European Visits Before Settlement
The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in
1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in
1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed
through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He
reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed
before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St
Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623
They established the first English colony in the West
Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from
there the English colonized Nevis Antigua
Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and
Anguilla
The Dutch
The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as
a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a
natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three
ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small
fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the
Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St
Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla
fort for materials to repair their settlement in
Phillipsburg
1650
In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis
came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo
and without an official commission or charter We
do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla
but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By
1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to
70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun
in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in
1649 The English Civil War produced refugees
Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been
an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported
that a few English families had settled where the
island was widest around a lake were raising
livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla
had apparently recovered from the Amerindian
attack a decade earlier
A Persistent Spirit
Despite hardships the struggling settlement was
never abandoned The Anguillian family name
Richardson dates from this period
Little is known about these early farmers Using
contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on
other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions
would have consisted of little more than an old
chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks
some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book
or pamphlet
Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt
pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts
Settling Anguilla
10
1700s
As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain
amount of political autonomy with fairly lax
guidance and control being exercised by the home
government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown
on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less
than 100 years and was replaced by cotton
In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the
following year the French retaliated by landing a
party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach
surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back
to the French at the end of the war but many
Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St
Martin where their descendants live today
Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo
Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined
the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This
prosperity was short-lived
During the French Revolution in 1796 the French
invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better
location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force
destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus
Bay
The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy
Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival
of an English frigate saved many citizens from
would have likely been a bloody execution Still the
Island was devastated and the economy would take
over a century to recover The surviving French
prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave
in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black
stones
1800s
Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by
England into a political union with St Kitts and
Nevis and lost much of its autonomy
Sugar continued to be produced until after
emancipation when it became a victim of economic
change taking place in the Caribbean
The great drought of the late 1800s brought
tremendous hardship to the island Many
Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the
years emigration became a way of life for many
During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in
economic turmoil Property changed hands and
many former slaves become land owners While
some political reforms were instituted in 1936
universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not
achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla
KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is
one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s
Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
9
European Visits Before Settlement
The first recorded European visit to Anguilla was in
1564 by a Frenchman who stopped briefly Then in
1609 the English Captain Robert Harcourt passed
through the cays of the north side of Anguilla He
reported that lsquoThere I think never Englishmen sailed
before usrsquo A small band of settlers landed in St
Christopher (St Kitts) under Thomas Warner in 1623
They established the first English colony in the West
Indies St Kitts became the lsquomother colonyrsquo and from
there the English colonized Nevis Antigua
Montserrat St Croix Tortola Virgin Gorda and
Anguilla
The Dutch
The Dutch showed a passing interest in Anguilla as
a source for salt in the 1620s They reported a
natural salt pan with enough salt for two or three
ships lsquoand a beautiful bayrsquo They established a small
fort on Sandy Hill in 1631 However in 1634 the
Spanish destroyed the Dutch settlement in St
Maarten and the Dutch dismantled the Anguilla
fort for materials to repair their settlement in
Phillipsburg
1650
In 1650 a group of settlers from St Kitts and Nevis
came to Anguilla lsquowithout public encouragementrsquo
and without an official commission or charter We
do not know their reasons for colonizing Anguilla
but it may to have been to avoid taxes and war By
1630 farmers in St Kitts paid annual levies of up to
70 lbs of tobacco The English Civil War had begun
in 1642 and King Charles I had been executed in
1649 The English Civil War produced refugees
Unsettled and lawless Anguilla would have been
an attractive alternative By 1666 it was reported
that a few English families had settled where the
island was widest around a lake were raising
livestock and growing corn and tobacco Anguilla
had apparently recovered from the Amerindian
attack a decade earlier
A Persistent Spirit
Despite hardships the struggling settlement was
never abandoned The Anguillian family name
Richardson dates from this period
Little is known about these early farmers Using
contemporary descriptions of their counterparts on
other Islands as a guide their worldly possessions
would have consisted of little more than an old
chest some barrels an old sieve a few hammocks
some battered pewters dishes and possibly a book
or pamphlet
Anguilla is the next which hath ten leagues of length and is 18 degrees It hath some few English on it with an excellent salt
pit and a good road for ships (1665 description of Anguilla) Sir Thomas Warner who settled St Kitts
Settling Anguilla
10
1700s
As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain
amount of political autonomy with fairly lax
guidance and control being exercised by the home
government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown
on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less
than 100 years and was replaced by cotton
In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the
following year the French retaliated by landing a
party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach
surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back
to the French at the end of the war but many
Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St
Martin where their descendants live today
Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo
Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined
the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This
prosperity was short-lived
During the French Revolution in 1796 the French
invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better
location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force
destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus
Bay
The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy
Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival
of an English frigate saved many citizens from
would have likely been a bloody execution Still the
Island was devastated and the economy would take
over a century to recover The surviving French
prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave
in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black
stones
1800s
Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by
England into a political union with St Kitts and
Nevis and lost much of its autonomy
Sugar continued to be produced until after
emancipation when it became a victim of economic
change taking place in the Caribbean
The great drought of the late 1800s brought
tremendous hardship to the island Many
Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the
years emigration became a way of life for many
During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in
economic turmoil Property changed hands and
many former slaves become land owners While
some political reforms were instituted in 1936
universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not
achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla
KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is
one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s
Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
10
1700s
As a British colony the island enjoyed a certain
amount of political autonomy with fairly lax
guidance and control being exercised by the home
government Tobacco cotton and sugar were grown
on Anguillarsquos plantations Sugar was grown for less
than 100 years and was replaced by cotton
In 1745 Anguilla invaded French St Martin and the
following year the French retaliated by landing a
party unsuccessfully at Crocus Bay on a beach
surrounded by cliffs England gave St Martin back
to the French at the end of the war but many
Anguillians stayed in the lsquoEnglish Quarterrsquo on St
Martin where their descendants live today
Anguilla prospered during the lsquosugar periodrsquo
Plantations grew in the Valley and merchants lined
the road from Crocus Bay to the capital This
prosperity was short-lived
During the French Revolution in 1796 the French
invaded Anguilla for the 2nd time at the better
location in Rendezvous Bay The marauding force
destroyed the Islandrsquos main settlement in Crocus
Bay
The Anguillians made a desperate stand at Sandy
Hill Their tenacious defence and the timely arrival
of an English frigate saved many citizens from
would have likely been a bloody execution Still the
Island was devastated and the economy would take
over a century to recover The surviving French
prisoners were executed and buried in a mass grave
in the Valley their only tombstone a layer of black
stones
1800s
Times were hard In 1825 Anguilla was forced by
England into a political union with St Kitts and
Nevis and lost much of its autonomy
Sugar continued to be produced until after
emancipation when it became a victim of economic
change taking place in the Caribbean
The great drought of the late 1800s brought
tremendous hardship to the island Many
Anguillians had to leave to find work and over the
years emigration became a way of life for many
During much of the 1800s Anguilla was in
economic turmoil Property changed hands and
many former slaves become land owners While
some political reforms were instituted in 1936
universal adult suffrage for Anguillians was not
achieved on Anguilla until 1952 Benzies Plantation Ruins on Anguilla
KoalKeel on the road from Crocus Bay to the Valley is
one of a few surviving buildings from the 1700s
Stone Ruins near Shoal Bay East (private property)
Anguilla between Columbus and the Revolution
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
11
I saw them first to the number of nine pirogues and
showed them to Captain la Bourlette who said Father if
we were in any other place I would think that it was an
army of savages going upon some expedition But a
moment afterwards seeing them tack he cried out Get
ready Get ready They are the savages
The largest pirogue leaving the eight others came boldly
to reconnoitre us Our Captain did what he could to run
her on board athwart ships and sail over her but the
Caribs adroitly avoided the shock and always kept her
head towards us We had pointed the gun to rake the
pirogue from one end to the other and it was loaded with
a large ball an iron chain and two bags of old nails and
musket balls Half the savages on board the pirogue rowed
all the others held each of them two arrows on their
bow-string ready to let fly When they were about twenty
paces from us they made great cries and hootings on
coming to attack us but as we went to them before the
wind the foresail covered us and they could not see to fire
at us Our gunner seeing them close chose his time so well
and let off his gun so a propos that the discharge knocked
down more than half the savages and if the stern of the
pirogue had not pitched not one of them would have
escaped
There were more than twenty killed by this discharge so
that the sea all around our bark became bloody and the
pirogue was stove and full of water Our two Captains
and our soldiers fired their pieces and because they were
so close there was scarcely one that did not kill a savage
While both sides were fighting valiantly an old captain of
the savages seeing M de Maubray upon the poop shot an
arrow at him with such violence that it broke the vessels
bell without which he would have been killed But he did
not endure that long M de Maubray immediately shot
him in the side The ball passed through him and M de
Maubray would have finished him with his pistol but the
savage avoided him and threw himself into the sea with
his bow and arrow where all the others even the
wounded followed him As soon as they were all in the
water we tried to save some prisoners that were in the
pirogue and easily got out two young Frenchmen But as
we were trying to get an English girl out an old female
savage bit her on the shoulder and tore out as much flesh
as her mouth could hold But at the same time a Christian
Carib that we had on board and a sworn enemy to others
of his nation struck her a blow with a half pike in the
neck which made her drop her prize This wound
nevertheless did not prevent her from throwing herself
upon the girl and biting her a second time before we could
get her out of the pirogue A Negro who had lost both his
legs by our shot refused the hand which was held out to
save him he threw himself head foremost into the sea But
his feet not being quite separated from his legs he hung by
the bones and drowned himself We also tried to save a
young English lady the mistress of the girl we had taken
on board The pirogue being separated from the bark we
saw her for some time upon a chest holding out her hands
to us but as we went to her the chest upset and we never
saw her again While we were occupied in saving these
poor miserable creatures our old savage captain all
wounded as he was came towards us and raising his body
half out the water like a Triton holding two arrows on
the string of his bow fired them into the bark and dived
immediately under the water He returned thus bravely to
the charge five times and his strength failing him before
his courage we saw him fall backwards and sink to the
bottom
If the eight pirogues had come to us with the same courage
we would certainly have been taken but having seen the
fire that we kept upon the first and perceiving that we
stood towards them with all sail set they took flight and
having gained the weather gage by rowing they saved
themselves on a small island called Redonda
1656 lsquoCaribrsquo Attack No sooner had this first settlement of 1650 established itself than it was almost wiped out By the mid-1600s after more than a century struggling against
massacres diseases and enslavement at the hands of Europeans many Amerindians were fighting back In 1656 lsquoCaribsrsquo from an unknown place attacked the
inhabitants of St Barths From there they rowed to Anguilla where they killed lsquoalmost all the menrsquo They plundered and burned the houses and enslaved the
women and children The French author botanist and explorer Pere Jean Baptiste du Tertre was sailing from Guadeloupe to St Christopher on the morning of 18
November 1656 when his ship came upon the Amerindians as they paddled away from Anguilla The Amerindians were in nine large pirogues or canoes
Fortunately for the French all nine pirogues did not attack the French vessel This is what du Tertre wrote about the encounter
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
12
The Golden Age of Piracy
The association of piracy and buccaneering with
Anguilla dates to the 17th century when
Anguilla developed a wide but undeserved
reputation as a stomping ground for pirates and
buccaneers
The Golden Age of Piracy ran from about 1614 to
1724 In 1672 Anguilla appears in history when
the new Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward
Islands unlawfully (and by accident) seizes the
William and Mary in Anguilla which was
carrying a cargo of logwood Wheelerrsquos action
was deemed unjustified and he was replaced as
Governor-in-Chief by Colonel William Stapleton
The cargo was offloaded while the ship sunk at
anchor in The Road (Sandy Ground)
William Kidd
In 1699 the Council for Nevis wrote that Kidd
had touched at Anguilla There he learned he
had been proclaimed a pirate by the English
authorities The Anguillians refused him
assistance but the allegations of visits by pirates
would haunt the Islandrsquos reputation for years
William Kidd travelled to the states where he was
imprisoned and later carried to England
In England he was hung and afterward exhibited as
a warning to other pirates
Accusations of Pirate Dealing
In 1701 Governor Codrington Jr wrote to the
committee for the Colonies that the men of Anguilla
were perfect outlaws
In 1706 Anguillarsquos Deputy Governor George
Leonard was accused by Richard Oglethorpe of
knowingly dealing with the goods of Captain Kidd
Unfortunately no other details are known
Oglethorpe subsequently married the widow of
Tempest Rogers Kiddrsquos colleague Oglethorpe
accused Governor Leonard of owing money to
Rogers and since Rogers was dead to him as he had
married Rogersrsquo widow
Anguilla continued to struggle with its reputation A
retired pirate surfaces on Anguilla in Captain
Woodes Rogers who in 1718 attempted to lure the
entire population of Anguilla (then around 1800
blacks and whites) to his colony in the Bahamas
Two years later six pirates from the Royal Rover
landed on Anguilla in 1720 to start a new life but
were detected by the Anguillians and sent as
prisoners to Nevis where they were found guilty
and sentenced to death
Kidd displayed on the Gibbet in London
Piracy
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
13
Smuggling
Origins
The first real evidence that Anguillians were
engaged in smuggling comes from 1736 the year
an Anguillian vessel was seized by the Spanish near
the Rocas a series of rocky islands off the coast of
Venezuela where they claimed they were hunting
turtle The Spanish believed they were smuggling
and it is quite possible they were correct
Smuggling has a long tradition and if the Spaniards
were correct it would prove an even greater
lineage Unfortunately the name of the sloop and its
fate along with its crew is not known so we cannot
be certain
Historian Don Mitchell writes that
It is this profession [smuggling] that was
responsible for having provided valuable
training and employment for generations
of famous Anguillian shipwrights and
sailors (The Baccaneers and Anguilla)
The boats that are used in todayrsquos races have not in
fact evolved from the sloops and schooners used by
Anguillian mariners but from a long line of boats
which fished at day and smuggled by night
Smuggling was important to boat racing as
invariably the best boats for smuggling were also
competitive racers
Taxes
The close proximity of duty-free St Martin the
Islandrsquos numerous bays and coves the poverty of
the inhabitants the high rates of duty together with
the presence of so many skilled mariners and
available boats has made smuggling a natural
pastime While liquor was the main commodity
other staple foods including rice sugar and flour
were also smuggled Duty on a gallon of rum in the
1930s meant that the same amount of rum costing
two or three shillings in St Martin could cost as
much as 20 shillings after importation There was
little cash on Anguilla and the high tax amounted to
prohibition
How to Avoid the Reefs
The Anguillians invented ingenious ways to avoid
both the officials (all two in 1930) and Anguillarsquos
dangerous reefs
At Little Harbour a series of fires were lit which
were visible at sea but invisible from land
Smugglers would tack along the nearly reef-bound
coast until the fires onshore lined up meaning the
channel was straight ahead and they could enter
Marching Songs
Smugglers invented several marching songs the
most famous of which was sang to the tune lsquoAll Hail
the Power of Jesusrsquo Namersquo
All hail the power of Cockspurrsquos rum
Let drunkards prostrate fall
Bring forth the royal demijohn
And crack it on the wall
(Recorded by David Carty in Nuttin
Bafflin 1997)
For more information Nuttin Bafflin a book and
DVD by David Carty provides an insightful look at
the history of smuggling and boat building
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
14
The St Martin-Anguilla Connection
From as early as the 1720s the deputy governor of Anguilla
had made grants of land in St Martin to British settlers
from Anguilla In 1744 during the War of Austrian
Succession (also known as King Georgersquos War or the War
of Jenkinrsquos Ear) England and France were at war That year
300 Anguillian settlers under the command of Deputy
Governor Arthur Hodge invaded St Martin with the help
of two Privateers from St Kitts The force successfully
captured the French side of St Martin
The French Invasion
In 1745 the French retaliated landing 150 men at Crocus
Bay Led by M DeLaTouche the invading force landed on
a beach surrounded by hills Governor Hodge of Anguilla
advised his men
Gentlemen I am an utter stranger to all
manner of military discipline so have
nothing to recommend to you but load and
fire as fast you can and stand by one
another in the defense of your country
so God bless you
-General Arthur Hodge
According to a contemporary account 150 Anguilla militia
repelled the force in only fifteen minutes 32 Frenchmen
were killed 25 injured (including M DeLaTouche) and 50
taken as prisoners
In 1747 Governor Hodge travelled to England to ask
parliament to allow Anguilla to keep St Martin His
requests were unsuccessful and the Treaty of Aix-la-
Chappelle in 1748 confirmed St Martin as half-Frenchhalf-
Dutch
Still many Anguillian settlers stayed on St Martin The
area of Simpson Bay was called lsquoThe English Quarter as
late as 1765 and common Anguillian names such as
Howell Leonard and Derrick persist in St Martin even
while they have become extinct in Anguilla
Crocus Bay Site of 1745 French Invasion on Anguilla
The 1745 French Invasion at Crocus Bay
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
15
On the 21st instant early in the
morning we were surprised by a
fleet of French consisting of two
Men-of-War one of 36 guns the
other of 32 with 3 privateers
and two Dutch vessels as
tenders They had undiscovered
put on shore 759 men at a place
called Rendezvous Bay [nb this is
mis-reported as the landing
actually took place at Crocus
Bay]
Their success in landing was a
great encouragement to them
and a great discouragement to
us our whole force being 97 men
only These our lieutenant
governor Arthur Hodge formed
into three divisions and posted
them in a very narrow path by
which the French were to pass
secured with breastworks the
first of which would contain but
22 men commanded by Captain
Richardson These engaged the
enemy firing by platoons
regularly and with so true an
aim that every shot took pace and
the French fell so fast that in less
than ten minutes they lost
courage and fled with precipita-
tion having in this short action
at least 160 men killed and
wounded and drowned in
getting into their boats
We expected a fresh onset the
next day but it seems they had a
job of it for they went away
quietly We have buried 35 dead
and are daily in search of such as
have hid themselves in the
bushes or died there of their
wounds which latter we believe
by the stench to be many but can
give no certain account of them
nor of the drowned Among the
dead are the second Captain of
the Commodore (Monsieur La
Touch) the first lieutenant of the
other ship Capt Rolough and
old privateer Benar their pilot
who married his wife of this
island the Governor of St
Bartholomewrsquos son and several
other officers
The Commodore himself was
wounded in his arm and thigh so
much that they were obliged to
carry him on board as they did
25 others Some of these
particulars we learn by some
prisoners set on shore by a flag of
truce sent by the Commodore
They had landed several hand
grenade shells swivel guns fixed
on triangles beef cheese bread
and wine The four last articles
were good plunder for our
Negroes
Every dead man had in his
pockets nettles or small lines for
pinioning our Negroes We had
not one man hurt and have got
by this expedition besides two
pair of their colours a great
many fine buccaneer guns
cartouche boxes etc which they
left behind and with which we
intend to arm our most trusty
and sensible Negroes to
strengthen our island
Contemporary Account of the 1745 French Invasion Boston Post 5th August 1745
Letter from an unnamed gentleman in Anguilla to his friend in St Kitts
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
16
Anguilla in Context
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the islands
of the Caribbean faced depredations by privateers
and pirates of all nations During the
Revolutionary Wars in 1796 Victor Hughes sent
470 men under citoyens Andre Senis and Labour-
tique from St Martin to Anguilla with alleged in-
structions lsquoto exterminate the inhabitantsrsquo
The French force landed at Rendezvous Bay and
moved through the settlements burning villages
and pillaging plantations as they went
Despite resistance they sacked and burned the main
town at Crocus Bay In the Valley they tore down the
church and burned Wallblake House Their advance
was finally held at Sandy Hill Fort where the
Anguillians melted the last of their fishing net
weights to make musket balls
Colonel Benjamin Gumbs said years after (1824) that
he urged the men saying
I tell you what I know nothing of marching and
counter-marching but my advice to you is wait till
the enemy comes close and then fire and load and
fire again like the devil
-Benjamin Gumbs Anguillarsquos Lieutenant Governor
Margaret Saves Anguilla
Meanwhile a fast sailing schooner the Margaret
was sent from Anguilla to St Kitts for assistance
on reaching St Kitts the Anguilla ship found the 28
-gun British frigate HMS Lapwing Sailing with the
frigate both ships proceeded quickly to Anguilla
Arriving at night they saw the man settlements
and plantations in flames They engaged the
enemy captured and burned the larger vessel and
drove the other ashore on St Martin
The frigatersquos timely intervention caused the French
to immediately break off their siege of Sandy Hill
In their hasty retreat many French soldiers were
left stranded Having surrendered they were
imprisoned in the burned out cellars of the Crocus
Hill Court House (a Heritage Trail site) Realizing
the extent of destruction enraged Anguillians
swarmed the make shift prison and slaughtered
the French in their cells
For bravery two service medals were awarded for the
Lapwing engagement Very similar to the medal awarded at
Trafalgar (above) one of these is preserved at the National
Maritime Museum in England
The 2nd French Invasion of Anguilla Rendezvous Bay 1796
The arrival of HMS Lapwing commemorated on an Anguilla
Stamp
Rendezvous Bay where the French landed their troops
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
17
In 1958 St Kitts-Nevis-Anguilla became part of
the Federation of the West Indies The Federation
collapsed in 1962 and despite individual
constitutions for most islands Anguilla remained
part of an Associated State with St Kitts and
Nevis an unpopular decision that sparked the
Anguilla Revolution
In 1967 in an effort to oust the St Kitts officials
Anguillians burnt Landsome House the only
other Plantation House on the Island Today the
separation from St Kitts is commemorated every
May 30th on Anguilla Day a National Holiday
Britain intervened in 1969 landing the British
lsquoRed Devilsrsquo (paratroopers) on the Island They
were welcomed by the Islanders with waving
Union Jacks
In 2007 six of the Revolutionrsquos leaders were
honoured on Anguilla stamps Hyacinth Carty
Edward Duncan Jeremiah Gumbs Connell
Harrigan Reverend Leonard Carty and Atlin
Harrigan who together with Ronald Webster
helped shape the future of Anguilla
During the 1970s debate continued over
Anguillarsquos future even while the British Corps
of Engineers helped rebuild the Islandrsquos
infrastructure and lay many of the roads you
see today
In December 1980 Anguilla became a separate
dependency with some measure of autonomy in
government The Island has an elected
ministerial government and a British-appointed
governor Today the Island is a British Overseas
Territory
The British lsquoon guardrsquo in Sandy Ground
Anguillarsquos National Flag
The Anguilla Revolution and Nationhood
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
18
Plantations
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
19
Design and Efficiency
The design for the Plantation Great
House was introduced to the
Caribbean in the early 1600s a
century or so before the design
became popular in America The
design takes advantage of the
regionrsquos natural climate One or two
stories the Planterrsquos house is always
elevated to take advantage of breezes
The space under the house was
originally used to keep livestock safe
at night and later for storing
commodities and other valuables In
some cases it is also the location for a
cistern
Designs vary and borrowed elements
can include shutters (Jalousie) from
the French dormer windows from
the Dutch and lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings
from the English
Other classical European features
include column capitols bases
entablatures arches and plinths
The roof typically extends over a
balcony which often surrounds the
entire house The porches allow both
relaxation and shade allowing the
planter to survey his property in
comfort Continuous walls of shutters
on the outside of the porch rails
provide privacy from outside and an
extension of living space
Inside interior walls originally
stopped just above the doors
allowing air to freely circulate around
the homersquos interior
Standing the
Test of Time
The design of the sloping hip roof is
ideal to deflect hurricane winds and
to collect fresh water for the cistern
The shape creates a venturi effect
under the porches During a storm
this forces the wind through the
house via large French doors helping
to anchor the house to the ground
The design is remarkably efficient
and is one reason many houses have
survived weather which has
devastated younger properties
Exterior of Koal Keel Restaurant showing elevated 1st floor and porch
The Plantersrsquo House
lsquoUnion Jackrsquo railings on the White House in Sandy Ground
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
20
The Buildings
Wallbblake House is the oldest surviving Plantation
on Anguilla The original estate buildings located n
the Valley comprised the main house its
outbuildings and the nearby sugar works Before
emancipation there would have been a slave village
attached to the plantation its exact location has yet
to be found
In 1787 by the end of the lsquosugar periodrsquo a house and
some outbuildings were built at Wallblake House
The sugar works date to the mid-1700s In its
heyday the Great House was a prominent residence
in the centre of an estate which at its peak extended
as far as the present airport A brick in the bakery on
site shows a date of 1787 Wallblake House was
burnt during the 1796 French invasion and at least
one member of the Hodge family murdered who
was hiding in the basement The house however
was rebuilt shortly after
Ownership
lsquoWallblakersquo the name of the estate
probably derives from Valentine
Blake whose property in the
Valley is mentioned briefly in a
deed from the 1690s The Hodge
Family owned the estate before
emancipation during the lsquoSugar
Periodrsquo and rebuilt the main house
following its destruction by the
French
Since the 1890s it has been owned
by the Lakes who leased the prop-
erty to the Rey brothers in the ear-
ly 1900s In the 1960s when cotton
was grown on the estate
Wallblake House and
approximately 9 acres were willed
to the Catholic Church by Miss
Marie Lake Today the property is
the centre for the Anguilla
Heritage Trail and an office for
non profit organizations The
building is open to the public five
days a week Burned coral and molasses formed the original mortar Exterior of Wallblake House
Wallblake House
Left Drawing of Wallblake House
estate by Ian Smith
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
21
Building a Plantation
Tray ceilings and beading inside Wallblake House
Stonework
The house basement along with the
outbuildings the cistern and the sugar
works were all built using local stone The
foundations are built of cut stone held
together with lime made from burnt coral
and shells mixed with molasses and marl
It would have taken at least 18 months to
collect and cut the stone (possibly much
longer) and some of the stone may have
come from nearby Crocus Bay or as far away
as East End and Scrub Island
The beading of each board used in the double
panelling of each partition (removed during
restoration) and intricate carving involved in
decorating the edges of the tray ceiling was
completed by hand
Other examples of this type of colonial architecture
can be seen at Koal Keel another site on the
Anguilla Heritage Trail
Woodwork
The house has a wooden roof and attractive tray
ceilings with beading and decorative woodwork
Tray ceilings are so called because they resemble
inverted trays suspended from the roof and the
decorated edged of the tray ceiling are called
roping because they look like rope tacked onto the
edges to hide irregularities
Outbuildings
In addition to the main house there is an elevated
cellar at ground level a bakery and two
outbuildings One of these was used as servantsrsquo
quarters in the early 1900s and the other has been
labelled lsquothe stablesrsquo The ruins of the original
animal round used to grind cane is approximately
100 metres from the main house
The ruins of the animal round where slaves took the cane to
extract the juice and produce sugar and rum The remains of
the boiling and curing house have not been found but would
have been nearby
Large stepped chimney in the bakery (c 1787)
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
22
The Household
There were always two separate but
interrelated domestic communities on the
Plantation
The resident of the Great House the
Planter and his family enjoyed as many
amenities and comforts as he could afford
Anguilla Planters never amassed the
fortunes of his Barbados or Jamaican
counterpart They did however maintain
a reasonable standard of living
Compared to life in Europe living on An-
guilla was difficult crude hot and sweaty
Diseases wars hurricanes and drought
made life unpredictable and the future
uncertain
The Plantation owner and his family lived
in the House and were usually looked after
by female domestic slaves or after
emancipation servants
The household help would have been
responsible for cleaning and laundry food
preparation gardening and often child
care
The organization day to day operation and
discipline of the domestic staff and the
ordering of food and household supplies
(many of which were imported) would
have been the main responsibility of the
plantation ownerrsquos wife The large oven
(separate from the house in case of fire)
would have been used for baking bread
and preparing food
While the separation between master and
slave may not have been as dramatic on
Anguilla as on other islands slave and
master lived in separate spheres Slaves did
not have legal rights and did not share the
benefits of their labour
Planters enjoyed the best that they could afford (above Planterrsquos lsquokicking backrsquo in Barbados 1700s)
Life on a Plantation Planters
The large oven at Wallblake House would have provided for all
the needs of the Family who resided in the Great House
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
23
Modern-day lsquojollificationrsquo sponsored by the library
Field Work
The majority of slaves were field workers
who planted and harvested crops of cotton
and sugar It was labour-intensive work
Domestic Work
Domestic work at Wallblake would have
revolved around daily chores including
cooking cleaning and laundry necessary to
keep the household running smoothly
Special events such as Christmas and Easter
would have meant periods of high activity
in the Plantation household
The planting of a kitchen garden in the
rainy season was a job usually delegated to
the domestic staff as was care of the
household milk cow sheep goats pigs and
chickens Historically the
seasonal planting and
harvesting of sugar cane or
cotton would have made
extra demands on the time
and skills of the plantationrsquos
domestic staff
lsquoProvisionsrsquo
Crops grown for local
consumption (which during
productive years might be
exported) were known as
provisions Corn (maize)
along with pigeon peas (a
good source of protein and
dry weather resistant)
cassava (a starchy root)
sweet potatoes and yams
(another good source of
carbohydrates) formed these
usual garden crops
lsquoJollificationrsquo
The collective planting of
familiesrsquo garden plots was
known on Anguilla as
lsquoJollificationrsquo and was practiced until the
late 1950s A reciprocal practice it was
probably an extension of the
neighbourhood house building tradition
and served the same social purposes
A missionary to Anguilla writes in 1828
When going to the Band-musking this
morning I heard a strange noise at
some distance which I learned was a
party celebrating a roof rising I
procured a guide and went unnoticed
to the spot They at first appeared
inclined to smile at reproof but
became attentive After some time
spent in reproof and remonstration I
requested them to kneel down that I
may pray with them The house being
small and having a large fire on the
floor in its centre I was almost
suffocated with heat and smoke [but]
rising from prayer I again exposited
with them (HB Britton 1828)
In the 20th Century the men of the
neighbourhood cleared and tilled the land
ready for planting while the women
prepared food and drink for a social
gathering that would take place after the
dayrsquos work Recent lsquoJollificationsrsquo have
been sponsored by the Anguilla Public
Library in an effort to keep alive Anguillarsquos
historical tradition of communal work Workers on an unknown Plantation (not Anguilla) 1800s
Life on a Plantation Slaves and Servants
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
24
Amerindians
Anguillarsquos first inhabitants identified sources of freshwa-
ter early The Islandrsquos two main Amerindian sites at the
Fountain Cavern and Big Spring renowned for their
1000+ year old petroglyphs and artefacts are also reliable
sources for fresh water
Wells and Cisterns
At least five lsquoIndianrsquo wells are recorded on early maps of
Anguilla The most reliable have been fitted with pumps
and expanded The Old Valley Well in the Valley became
the site of Anguillarsquos first Water Works in 1919 (top right)
The site also served as a watering hole for cattle and goats
and a community meeting place for business transactions
to take place It was included on the Anguilla Heritage
Trail in 2010 Other prominent wells (middle) are visible
while many others once used to wash clothes and draw
water are now forgotten (top left)
The water found under Anguilla ranges from brackish to
fresh and is mostly used for agricultural purposes
Cisterns provide a convenient source of water by catching
runoff from roofs This catchment area funnels the water
into a storage chamber where it is held until needed The
cistern at Wallblake House is an exceptionally well made
example which continues to hold water more than 200
years after it was constructed
Desalination
Conserving water continues to be an important- even vital
part of living on Anguilla Today the governmentrsquos
desalination plant in Crocus Bay and on Crocus Hill
provides fresh water across the island The system pumps
sea water into Crocus Bay The desalinated water is
pumped to a storage tank at the highest point on
Anguilla at Crocus Hill where it is delivered by gravity to
customers paying for rsquogovernmentrsquo water
Many Anguillians however continue to rely on wells and
cisterns for their freshwater requirements
Valley Well a Heritage Trail site
East End Pump Station
Fresh Water ndash
Anguillarsquos Staff of Life
The cistern at Wallblake House was built by hand
more than 200 years ago and still holds water
Many wells once used to wash clothes are now easily
overlooked
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
25
Slavery
The original tobacco and cotton farmers in the
1600s were white indentured servants and former
slaves from neighbouring islands
The introduction of sugar cane cultivation in the
early 1700s led to larger estates the
conglomeration of small farms and the exodus of
many small-scale farmers
Increased numbers of black slaves were imported
to meet the labour needs of the plantation and by
1740 Blacks outnumbered Whites 4 to 1
While many Anguillians today believe that
slavery was less intensive on Anguilla than other
islands its presence has left a permanent mark on
the Island
Work On and Off the Plantation
Sugar production is very labour intensive and
requires large numbers of workers However
outside the harvest many slaves were sent
off-Anguilla to work on neighbouring
plantations After years of work abroad records
show that some slaves returned with savings to
purchase both their and their familiesrsquo freedom
Anguillian Names and Slavery
It was accepted that planters would have children
with slave mothers Anguillarsquos historic deeds from
the late 1700 and early 1800s show how many of
these children were manumitted (freed) and given
property in their fathersrsquo wills
On freedom slaves retained their first name but
often took their last name from their master Thus
planters named Carty Gumbs Harrigan
Richardson and Ruan (among others) passed on
their names to former slaves These surnames have
been passed down through generations and are
part of Anguillarsquos heritage today
Emancipation Subsistence
Farming and Land Ownership
By the 1820s increasing taxes together with
decreasing productivity brought about by
exhausted soil drought conditions and falling
prices led the majority of the planter-class to leave
With taxes unpaid the land reverted back to the
crown (England) Slavery was abolished in 1834
and former slaves became Anguillian subsistence
farmers who acquired the land and have held it
ever since
An excerpt from the division of slave owner Benjamin
Richardsonrsquos estate in Anguilla on his death in 1819
including a list of the estatersquos slaves
Slavery on Anguilla
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
26
Life in the 1800s
A community of peasant farmers most Anguillians lived in wattle and daub houses during the 1800s and through the mid-1900s
lsquoThe roof and wall were a prefect work of arthellipmade of the leaf of a plant the shape of an open hand and no largerhellipEvery leaf is tied to small
cross beams by a fibre partially detached from its own stalkhellipcalled a thatch palm by natives
Image and quote from Bless our Forebears by Colville L Petty
In the early 1800s Anguilla began to shift
from a plantation (slave-based) economy to a
society of independent peasants
Following emancipation in 1834 Anguillarsquos
former slaves purchased land families
spread across the island farming provisions
and small crops wherever the soil was good
In the 1840s drought conditions and distress
led the British Government to plan the
evacuation of all Anguillians to Demerara
(now Guyana)
Anguillians refused to move and conditions
improved by the 1860s with many
Anguillians working the phosphate mine on
Sombrero
However the Great Famine from 1888
through the 1890s once more causedhellip
Prolonged drought
repeated failure of crops
lack of seed death of cattle
sheep goats for want of
food and water-
(Colville Petty)
In fact in 1895 95 of the population or 3500
persons were given assistance from the
central government in St Kitts lsquoto save them
from actual starvation
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
27
Life in the 1900s
ldquoA Century of Paradox Despair and
Hoperdquo
-description of 1900s by Colville
Petty
Drought famine hurricanes and epidemics marked
Anguilla in the 1900s Anguillians survived but the
depressed conditions led many to seek work off-
island Some found work in St Kitts a few went to
Cuba and many others went to the Dominican
Republic to cut cane When that industry closed in
the 1930s Anguillians travelled to Curaccedilao and
Aruba to work on the oil refineries
Cotton production on Anguilla peaked in 1910 (see
Cotton Production) but quickly declined after World
War 1
Throughout the 1900s Anguilla suffered from the
cyclic destruction of hurricanes and drought The
people lived from hand to mouth
Whenever conditions improved Anguillians
gathered surplus provisions and livestock (peas and
maize pigs chickens sheep goats and cattle) and
sold or battered them on St Martin and St Barths In
1960 the census shows that more than half of
Anguillians were unemployed while the others were
employed primarily in agriculture construction and
sea transportation But times were changinghellip
The first hotels Lloyds Guest House (Crocus Hill) and
Rendezvous Bay Hotel were built in the 1960s the
beginning of tourism marks a turning point in
Anguillarsquos history
agriculture18
services (teaching administration and
health)8
construction8
sea transportation
6commerce
(wholesale and
reta il)5
other2
unemployed56
Employment Sectors in 1960
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
28
The Sea
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
29
Maritime Heritage
From the earliest Amerindians to the present and into the future the sea has defined Anguilla
enabling life to continue where it would otherwise be impossible
From maritime industries including salt picking and fishing to transportation trade and tourism
Anguilla has come to rely on the sea when other industries failed
Today the sea is celebrated in festivals and celebrations including Festival del Mar in Island
Harbour and August Monday in Sandy Ground
The sea is a natural part of life on Anguilla and until recently fish the dominant protein
While many Anguillians do not swim there is an undeniable and intangible connection with the
ocean As more than one Anguillian explains lsquothe sea is in our bloodrsquo
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
30
Surrounded by reefs poorly charted and sitting
close to the Anegada Passage Anguilla can boast a
surprising number of shipwrecks
The descendants in Island Harbour trace their roots
to an Irish ship perhaps named The Lepricon In the
early 1700s the survivors (including the shiprsquos
dachshund) allegedly settled in Island Harbour and
East End Today the Islandrsquos Harrigans and
Websters trace their ancestry here although
unfortunately no primary sources survive
Other recorded wrecks include Spanish merchant
ships an English slaver American and Canadian
traders and more than two dozen named ships
Maritime archaeologists believe that Anguilla has a
likely resource of 100-150 shipwrecks with many
more around Sombrero and the off-lying cays
In addition to these accidental shipwrecks nine
artificial reefs were created in 1990 to create
underwater fish habitats and clear several unsightly
hulks from Anguillarsquos coast
While Anguilla does not have any laws preventing
the exploration of ship wrecks by divers there are
laws to stop artefacts from being taken off-island or
sold
Thomas Hinde one of the English owners of the slave
ship Antelope lost off Anguilla in 1772
Anguillarsquos maritime history is imperfectly preserved in archives and collections around the world Above the United Kingdom
Hydrographic Office in Taunton England has maps and information on the Caribbean region including Anguilla
Shipwrecks
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
31
In 1990 Anguilla undertook an artificial reef
programme in part to rid the island of unsightly
hulks littering the beaches and in part to create a
series of wreck dives for visiting SCUBA divers
These sites can be visited today and include
MV Sarah
MV Ekco
MV Lady Vie
MV Meppel
MV Commerce
MV Ida Maria
MV Oospterdiep
MV Catheley H
MV Marva W
While sailing the Caribbean in 1988 the
archaeologist George Bass stopped in Road Bay
Anguilla He commented from his porthole lsquoI
could see a future archaeological site-the rusting
hulk of Sarah on her side Half above and half be-
low the surface of the harbour of Aquilla in the
BWIrsquo (Ships and Shipwrecks of the Americas)
Less than 100 years old each vessel has a unique
history
World War II
For example the Meppel an ignoble cargo vessel
127rsquo long was purposely sunk in Anguilla in
1990
In another life the ship then called Hilda assisted
the evacuation of 338000 allied troops during
Operation Dynamo the WWII battle at Dunkirk
France Nearly sunk on several occasions by
U-boats the ship survived the war and success-
fully (if unglamorously) served throughout the
Caribbean as an inter-island freighter
Each of the ships is located off-shore and is
accessible only by boat Most of the dives range
from 30rsquo to 80rsquo and are suitable for Open-Water or
Advanced Scuba divers In addition to the ships
the sites are habitats for a wide range of species
including lobster rays and fish
For more information please contact the Islandrsquos
dive operators (Special lsquoDrsquo Divers in Sandy
Ground Anguillian Divers in West End and Shoal
Bay Scuba on Shoal Bay East)
Ships sunk as artificial reefs are not only interesting dive sites
but also provide an important habitat for many fish and coral
species
Hilda aka Meppel during WWII
Artificial Reefs
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
32
The bow anchor of an 18th century Nau the Buen Consejo recorded
in 2009
Nine cannon lsquodumpedrsquo in the 1800s when a ship ran onto
Anguillarsquos reefs
Two archaeologists recording a 19th century wreck Other
features recorded include a windlass and anchoring assembly
The most recent site recorded a 1975 taiwanese fishing boat
from St Martin that sunk with 120 tons of fresh tuna Every
Anguillian with a freezer had it filled
Marine Archaeology on Anguilla Marine Archaeology is the study of humankindrsquos
past interaction with the sea The discipline focuses
on the material culture that remains from
submerged cities and lost ships to local traditions
and oral histories The first marine archaeologist
visited Anguilla in 1971 from the College of the
Virgin Islands but left no record of his discoveries
25 years later the first professional archaeologists
visited from East Carolina University and the
Maritime Archaeological and Historical Society
(based in Maryland) In 1996 they documented the
site of the Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
More than a decade later another team this time
from the University of Southampton conducted a
three week field project photographing and
recording 9 historic shipwrecks (8 previously
undocumented) and 11 spot finds including anchors
cannon and shiprsquos machinery
Finds included a lsquodump sitersquo with 9 cannon 19th cen-
tury sailing ships and a Taiwanese fishing boat that
was lost in 1975 Results from both surveys are
available to the public and have been published by
the archaeologists
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
33
The 2009 ceremony returning some of the artefacts stolen
from Anguilla
The sitersquos exposed condition has not protected it from
looters
One of the remaining anchors and cannon in-situ in the
Buen Consejo Archaeological Preserve
Treasure Hunting El Buen Consejo
The crystal waters of the Caribbean have long been
a stomping ground for avocational and professional
treasure hunting Unfortunately their activities
result in a permanent loss of information and
history
In 1994 the 1772 Spanish Nau El Buen Consejo
became the centre of controversy when several
treasure hunters sought permits to salvage the site
The 980-ton Nau which ran aground off Anguilla on
July 8 1772 was carrying a cargo of trade goods
and passengers from Cadiz Spain to Mexico
Among the passengers were 52 Franciscan
missionaries carrying a consignment of religious
medallions
The bronze pieces depicting religious scenes and
holy figures were not recovered when the ship ran
aground but found centuries after by a spear
fisherman from Island Harbour He proceeded to
show the site to a number of tourists and soon
treasure hunters became interested
The site was protected as an Underwater
Archaeological Preserve by the Government of
Anguilla in 1995 and became off-limits to the public
Unfortunately looters continued to remove many
artefacts including coins buttons and medallions
Today it is illegal to visit the site without
permission from the Government While
Anguilla has kept a large collection of
medallions much has been lost Artefacts taken
from the sea are especially fragile Years under
the sea will change their chemistry and unless
they are conserved as soon as they are removed
from water they will quickly disintegrate
Today the site consists of 29 cannon and three
anchors It is located in a high energy
environment In 2009 the government together
with the FBI recovered a number of artefacts
from a private collector in the USA The
artefacts were returned to Anguilla by the FBI
Their recovery will hopefully serve as a
warning for others
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
34
Migration was a necessity for Anguillians through
the 1800s and 1900s While some Anguillians
permanently migrated to other islands North
America or Europe Santo Domingo seasonal
employment for Anguillians who were willing to
work in the cane fields Many Anguillian boys as
young as 11 travelled with their male relatives Each
worker was paid every 15 days at a rate that
averaged US$17 per ton of cane cut The workers
would leave each January crowded aboard
schooners such as the Warspite Betsy R Excelsior
Hodge Yolanda Ismay and Carmella Following
British legislation they carried one passenger per
ton Calling into Marigot St Martin they would
load many more men and boys including those
from other islands The trip to San Pedro de
Macoris in the Dominican Republic would take as
little as two days
Returning home the ships beat against the wind
and the voyage could last two weeks or more
On their arrival into Road Bay the schools
would empty as children and families rushed to
meet the workers The faster ships became
renowned for quicker journeys cementing their
place in Anguilla history
Todayrsquos racing boats departing from Sandy
Ground in the annual boat races re-enact the
historic migration of Anguillarsquos men to Santo
Domingo
The annual migration provided a vital income
The menrsquos departure relieved pressure to feed a
large population Their return provided an
influx of cash which was otherwise impossible
to obtain Despite the low wages Anguillians
welcomed the work off-island lsquoMacoris
Macoris God bless Macorisrsquo they cried
Changing politics closed the door for
Anguillians in the late 1930s and early 1940s to
work in the Dominican Republic Moving South
Anguillians found work in the crowded oil
refineries in Curaҫao and Aruba
Many sugar mills like the one pictured below in Santo
Domingo were animal-driven
These animal-powered mills which in some areas
continue to operate were very similar to the equipment
which would have been used at Wallblake House and
other sugar plantations on Anguilla in the 1700s San Pedro de Macoris 1910
(Bless Our Forebears by Colville Petty)
Migration and Santo Domingo
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
35
The Warspite commemorative stamp
An Anguilla Legend
Built in 1909 at Sandy Ground the Warspite was
originally christened Gazelle
In 1916 Arthur Romney bought the 40-ton ship and
renamed her the Warspite after the famous Queen
Elizabeth Class warship launched in 1913 He
altered the bow section and added 11 feet to the
length
She was a fast boat and soon became famous for
transporting Anguillarsquos men to and from the
Dominican Republicrsquos cane fields
In 1929 she was lengthened again and a fourteen
foot section was added to her centre
Through the 40s 50s 60s and 70s she transported
goods between the Caribbean islands and salt to
Trinidad As times changed she was motorized but
continued to live as a working boat
Every two weeks she carried supplies to the light-
house on Sombrero
Between trips she would anchor in Sandy Ground
Fate
In 1984 while at anchor in Road Bay during hurricane
Klaus the now infamous Ida Maria dragged down her
chains struck the Warspite tore her chains from the
bitts and cast her ashore
In 1995 the vessel was commemorated in a series of
postal stamps
Left The Warspite at anchor in Sandy Ground
The Warspite
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
36
Ad-hoc racing
Before organized racing there was competition The
challenge of one Captain to another was legendary
Unscheduled head-to-head races bred skills and
experience The Islandrsquos original racing boats were used
for fishing and smuggling and were much more easily
rigged and crewed than the larger boats used in todayrsquos
August Monday celebrations
Betting
While illegal and unregulated betting plays an
important role in racing Fortunes have been lost and
gained and considerable sums trade hands each race
Organized Racing
Racing was not incorporated into August Monday
celebrations until 1940 Up to then August Monday
was organized by the Anglican Vestry and celebrated
in what is now Ronald Webster Park (formerly called
Landsome Pasture or Burrowes Park) as a fair with a
bazaar and sports meet In 1940 Mac Owen and Elliot
Carty (both of North Hill) organized the first August
Monday Boat Race in Sandy Ground The largest boats
were just over 19rsquo and there was no prize money Over
time the event grew in popularity eventually attracting
sponsors and even occasional competitors from St
Martin When motorized fishing boats replaced the
sails of the fishing fleet sailing boats survived as racing
boats Increasingly built for competition their paint
became more decorative and their efficiency for racing
improved
Itrsquos all in a name
Most of todayrsquos racing boat names can be traced back
decades and in some cases generations For example
the original Bluebird was built in 1967 Light and Peace in
1971 and De Chan in 1973 De Tree and UFO both date
to 1996
Boat Racing Boat racing is Anguillarsquos national sport It involves communities groups businesses and visitors in annual celebration and competition
Right Boat arriving into Sandy Ground on August Monday 2010
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
37
Anguillarsquos off-lying cays (pronounced
keys) provide important habitats for birds
and marine life together with recreational
opportunities for residents and visitors
Anguillarsquos cays and shoals include
Anguillita Blowing Rock Cove Cay Crocus
Cay Deadmans Cay Dog Island East Cay
Little Island Little Scrub Island Mid Cay
North Cay Prickly Pear Cays Rabbit Island
Sandy Island also known as Sand Island
Scilly Cay Scrub Island Seal Island
Sombrero also known as Hat Island South
Cay South Wager Island and West Cay
Most are of little consequence many are
privately owned and all our uninhabited
Facilities
Power does not extend to the off-lying cays
and there is no accommodation Today
Sandy Island Prickly Pear and Scilly Cay are
the only cays that offer food and drink All
materials and supplies (including water) is
carried by boat from Anguilla and all
waste is carried back to Anguilla Prickly
Pear currently has a solar system which
provides basic electricity
History
The cays have been used variously
through time In the 1800s a more fertile
Dog Island was used to pasture horses and
goats In 1826 Benjamin Gumbs Hodge
assaulted a slave called Charlotte After
beating her he did lsquoseize take drag and
forcibly carry her across the sea to a certain
place called Dog Island for a long space of
time for the space of three weeksrsquo
Charlotte was a witness in the trial but
Hodge was acquitted of any wrongdoing
by his fellow planters
The larger Island of Sombrero supported a
phosphate industry (1860-1890) and during
the 1990s was nearly leased to a company
who wanted to create a missile silo and
launch rockets from the Island
All the cays and Anguilla itself have
witnessed a number of shipwrecks and
disasters In 1996 the shoals around Sandy
Island were altered the palm trees
destroyed and the island swept clean by
Hurricane Louis
Scilly Cay offers a shuttle from Island Harbour There is a restaurant and bar on the island
Beach on Scrub Island a cay lying across from Windward Point Anguilla
Off-Island
Cays
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
38
Industries
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
39
Origins
The first generation of settlers found cotton growing
wild on the Island where it had been left by the
Amerindians before In many ways it was an ideal
crop as it required little capital outlay and did not
spoil as long as it was kept dry Cotton was cultivat-
ed on Anguilla for nearly 240 years from the 1600s
through the 1740s and from the mid-1800s through
the 1950s Sugar was introduced in the 1730s but
never completely replaced cotton By the late 1800s
cotton had once more became the preferred crop and
in 1902 a cotton gin was installed at the Factory
Cotton was grown on the adjacent estate (Wallblake)
through the 1950s The most productive years (1910-
11) saw 148000 pounds exported to the UK
In 1920 Wallblake Plantation consisted of 97 acres of
cotton Today much of the old cotton fields are
covered by the runway However wild cotton trees
can be found throughout the Island from Corito to
the Valley where their seeds have been scattered by
birds
Sea Island Cotton
In the 1800s cotton from Anguilla was imported to
the Bahamas The strain with unusually long strands
was named lsquoGossypium barbadensersquo Its superior
quality was recognized by loyalist settlers from the
American colonies and in the 1800s it was imported
to Georgia and South Carolina Flourishing on the
Islands off the coast of South Carolina it became
famous as lsquoSea Island Cottonrsquo
Close-up of Wild Cotton on Anguilla
Gossypium lsquoanguillensersquo (also known as Barbadense) growing
wild at Corito
The cotton gin originally at the Factory is now at the
Heritage Collection in East End
Cotton Production 1670-1730 1850-1950
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
40
Sugar Production c1730-1800
Sugar Cane was introduced into the Caribbean in
the 1640s Sugar was a luxury food used to sweeten
the tea coffee and cocoa that was becoming
fashionable to drink in Europe at the time
Cane sugar began to replace the wild honey
previously used and the tropical and semi-tropical
islands of the Caribbean proved to be ideal for the
growing of sugar cane (a member of the grass
family)
Great wealth was generated for the European
owners of sugar estates during the 150 years when
the Caribbean held a virtual monopoly on its
production Sugar cane cultivation is hard work and
very labour intensive Its economic success in the
Caribbean was based largely on the use of slave
labour Sugar cane arrived on Anguilla in the 1730s
despite the islandrsquos irregular rainfall and unsuitable
climate for its production
Sugar cane was planted in rows and the long stalks
or canes were cut in the winter months when the
cane was about 15 months old
The cut canes were brought to the factory on the
backs of donkeys and the sweet juice was extracted
from the tough cane stalks by passing them through
rollers as shown below
The raw cane juice was boiled in large iron pots
called coppers and lime was added to clarify the
juice
The clarified juice was then boiled in a series of cast
iron kettles until it became a thick syrup The
concentrated syrup was allowed to cool in trays
forming crystals as it cooled
Molasses was drained from the sugar crystals when
the crystals were put in wood barrels
After a period of lsquocuringrsquo the barrels of sugar
(known as muscavado) were shipped to England or
North America for further processing and sale
In the mid-1700s a ton of West India sugar sold for
as much as US $5000
Molasses the by-product of sugar making was
either used on the estates for food mixed to make
building glue fed to the estate animals sold
overseas or used at home to make rum
At Wallblake House and other estates sugar
production was limited due to poor soil and lack of
rainfall
Animal-powered sugar mill
Foundation of animal round similar to Wallblake
House in St Croix
Early sugar works with boiling house
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
41
Naturally occurring salt has been harvested from
Anguillarsquos natural salt ponds from the time of the
Amerindians It is also believed that Amerindians came
here from other islands to collect salt
Salt ponds are found throughout Anguilla The largest are
at Long Path Rendezvous Bay Cove Bay Maundays Bay
West End and Sandy Ground
These ponds were formed when earlier coves became cut
off from the sea by sand bars which formed across their
mouths As with similar sea-level salt ponds on other
islands they never completely dry out Their bottoms are
below the level of the nearby sea As the brine concentrates
by evaporation the salt precipitates out It forms a thick
crust on the bed one to two feet below the surface
This underwater salt deposit is lsquopickedrsquo by workers
bending over breaking off and lifting up bits of the slab of
salt These bits of salt slab were then thrown into the small
salt barges or lsquoflatsrsquo floating alongside the pickers It was
back-breaking work
An early description of Anguilla by a Dutch sea captain in
1624 states Anguilla as having lsquono fresh water but a salt
pan with enough salt for two to three ships a yearrsquo The
earliest known earthworks installed in order to increase
the amount of salt produced are thought to have been built
by the Irish in the 1600s Wager Rey built the dams
surrounding the Sandy Ground pond in the late nineteenth
century to prevent rainwater flowing into the salt-making
area The present structures and long middle dam were
erected by his son Carter Rey (one-time owner of
Wallblake House and the Factory) in various stages from
the late 1930s to the mid to late 1940s
The oldest part of the present restaurant called the
Pumphouse was built to house a pump that carried
rainwater trapped by the ring dams out to sea thus
helping to preserve the salt crop
Salt was produced for export at Sandy Ground (Road Salt
Pond) and at the West End Salt Pond and exported to
Trinidad to refine jet fuel In 1984 hurricane Klaus forced
Anguillarsquos principal market in Trinidad to seek salt
elsewhere The last salt was harvested the following year
and the works abandoned
The Salt Pond at Sandy Ground Anguilla
Hand-packed salt ready for export lsquoPicking Saltrsquo
Washing the salt in the Pumphouse (Heritage Trail site)
Salt Production 1600s-1983
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
42
Sombrero
34 miles northwest of Anguilla in the Anegada
passage is the 95-acre island of Sombrero Today
the Island is a dependency of Anguilla the island
has sparse vegetation but in the early 1800s a
geological survey discovered an abundance of
phosphate of lime (guano)
Mining
In 1856 Americans claimed the island quarrying
100000 tons of phosphate to fertilize the Southrsquos
exhausted soils Anguillians worked the mines from
the 1860s through 1890 In 1890 the phosphate
works were finally abandoned
Lighthouse
In 1859 the 3400-ton Royal Mail Steam Packet
Companyrsquos ship Paramatta wrecked on her maiden
voyage off Somebrero To prevent future maritime
disasters a lighthouse was built which opened on
January 1 1869 The lighthouse was administered
by Trinity House and manned by a long line of
Anguillians Full responsibility passed to the
Anguillian government in 2001 and the following
year the light was automated
Phosphate
Phosphate is a fertilizer made from fossilized guano
or bird droppings
Sombrero supports a large population of sea birds
including Masked Boobies Brown Boobies Bridled
Terns Brown Noddys and Sooty Terns which are
responsible for the phosphate deposits
The superintendentrsquos house was a wooden bungalow near the
middle of island surrounded by the quarters of technicians
store keepers and lighthouse keepers
Royal Mail Steam Packet Paramatta wrecked on maiden
voyage on Western Reef of Sombrero Brown Booby
Mining 1860-1890
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
43
Fishing with Pots
Fish pots are traps laid on the reefs and in deep
water and marked with surface buoys On Anguilla
they are now made from rebar and chicken wire
while on other islands including Nevis and
Dominica wood is still used to construct the frame
Popular Fish and Shellfish
Fish species caught on Anguilla include snapper
dolphin (aka dorado or mahi mahi) and numerous
species of potfish including doctorfish old wife
porcupine fish hinds and angelfish Shellfish are
also caught including spiny lobster crayfish and
whelks
Fishing Communities
While fishing was once island-wide today most
fishermen live in Island Harbour East End Sandy
Ground and West End
While most Anguillians fish for sport there are at
least 50 families whose primary income continues to
come from the sea
From Sail to Power
From the 1800s the Islands fleet of fishing boats
used to travel to the Anguilla Bank as far as 40 miles
off-shore At the end of the day the boats would
race each other home Racing as a national pastime
became cemented as an Island tradition in the 1940s
when Anguillarsquos first regatta was held using fishing
boats in Sandy Ground
Beginning from the 1970s the Islandrsquos fishing fleet of
sailboats began to covert to power The replacement
of sails might have been the end of sailboats on
Anguillahellip
Fishing Boats and Racing Boats
Yet sailboats continued to be built not only for
fishing but increasingly to participate in competitive
(sailing) races
Today Anguillians build both modern (power) boats
and traditional sail boats Each year more than a
dozen racing boats compete for prize money and
bragging rights
A fishingracing boat built in the 1970s
Island Harbour a modern fishing community continues its
fishing tradition and annually celebrates this heritage during
Festival del Mar
Fishing pots on Nevis built with local wood and chicken wire
Fishing
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
44
History
Anguillarsquos maritime roots run deep In 1730 the
richest man on Anguilla was George Leonard lsquoan
honest sloop man and a cotton planterrsquo
By the 1790s there was some trade between
Anguilla with Canadian schooners (especially from
Nova Scotia) who would take on salt in Sandy
Ground
These sloops and schooners inspired a tradition of
building and modifying boats that continues today
By 1817 and probably much earlier Anguillians
were building vessels the Julia a 25rsquo3rdquo vessel was
built and registered on Anguilla She traded
throughout the Lesser Antilles before being
condemned in Tortola several years later
By the 1890s Anguillians were operating an
impressive merchant fleet of inter-island sailing
ships and for the next 100 years Anguilla would
build a reputation for its mariners and ships
Boat Builders
Anguilla has had more than its fair share of very
talented boat builders Indeed in some families the
skill almost seems to be genetically inclined
-David Carty
Asked how many boat builders are on Anguilla
today one replied lsquoabout half a dozenrsquo After a
pause he added lsquobut everyone can build a boatrsquo
Rebel Marine
From dinghies to yachts Rebel Marine founded by
David Carty is Anguillarsquos largest boatyard
While modern materials and tools are used
Anguillians will tell you that the eye of the artist
(ie boat builder) continues to be what matters
most
A boat being built on Anguilla in 2009 by lsquoBeggerrsquo Daniels The Lady Celestia built by Rebel Marine
Boat Building
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
45
Following the 1967 Revolution Anguilla looked for
ways to move forward At one point a Lobster
Cannery was considered as there were so many
lobster fishermen used them to bait their fish pots
Tourism which was spreading rapidly through the
Caribbean and being hailed as a panacea for
economic hardship Importantly rather than
welcoming wholesale development by foreigners
Anguillarsquos revolutionary leaders suggested a more
controlled approach that would focus on developing
a high-end tourism product that would cater to
fewer wealthier visitors
Aspiring to this goal Malliouhana opened in 1980
The hotelrsquos five star standards set the bar for future
development Cap Jaluca CuisinArt and most recently
Viceroy have continued this tradition of excellence
This governmentrsquos foresight attempting to control
overdevelopment has protected Anguilla from many
of tourismrsquos more damaging impacts As
experienced on other islands these may include
raising crime rates over-commercialization cultural
homogenization andor environmental destruction
While Anguilla has not been unscathed by these
pressures the island has fared better than most 2012
marks 53 years since the first guest house was built
on Anguilla in Crocus Hill and 34 years since
Anguilla wrote its first tourism policy
Today tourism (including construction related
activities) accounts for approximately 90 of
Anguillarsquos GDP and is a vital part of Anguillarsquos
economy According to the Ministry of Tourism
lsquoTourism is our bread and butterrsquo Despite this heavy
reliance tourism is not in fact Anguillarsquos greatest
asset Anguillarsquos greatest asset are the people the
beaches the history and the culture and that is the
reason more than 50 of Anguillarsquos visitors return
year after year
Anguillarsquos First Guest House Opened in 1959 and remains open today Anguillarsquos first five-star hotel opened in 1980
Tourism
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
46
Natural History
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
47
Rain and Drought
Anguilla passes through cycles of wet and dry
weather This is because unlike mountainous
islands Anguilla does not have the ability (ie
geography) to generate its own rain As a result
Anguilla passes through periods of wet weather
when it becomes possible to grow crops and raise
livestock and alternatively dry weather when the
island is particularly vulnerable to drought and
historically famine and even starvation Visitors to
Anguilla before 2009 will have experienced this lsquodryrsquo
Anguilla whilst visitors since 2010 may have noticed
a much greener island Even when Anguilla is
lsquogreenrsquo the Island still experiences a wet and dry
season The wet season runs from May through
November and corresponds with the Hurricane
Season As water becomes more plentiful it is
possible to grow more crops On Anguilla these
include corn (pigeon corn and sweet corn) tomatoes
peppers eggplant squash (lsquopumpkinsrsquo) green
onions and sweet potatoes among others Fruit trees
including mango avocado sherry and soursop are
especially prized
Hurricanes
The name hurricane comes from the Amerindian
god Huracan Since 1850 60 storms of tropical
storm force or greater have impacted Anguilla
Some of the more famous include Hurricane Alice
(1955) which destroyed the Old Court House on
Crocus Hill Hurricane Donna (1960) which
demolished 75 of the homes on Anguilla and
Hurricane Luis in 1995 Hurricanes shape every
aspect of life in the tropics For example before
Hurricane Donna most homes were constructed
from wood Following the stormrsquos devastation
concrete became the preferred material and remains
so today
Hurricane Earl from Space in 2010
Hurricanes and Weather (Climate)
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
48
Hurricane Donna hit an already economically
depressed Anguilla on September 4 1960 It is rare
for individuals to be killed on Anguilla from
hurricanes but Donna killed five Those named
were George Carty Margaret Hodge Elizabeth
Fleming and Lilian Fleming 250 people were
injured and approximately 500 houses destroyed
All but two of the Islandrsquos fleet of merchant vessels
were destroyed The devastation was overwhelming
and Anguilla was forced to rely on foreign aid for
several weeks Centres were set up in the Valley
and in Sandy Ground Members of the St Johnrsquos
Ambulance Brigade from Trinidad and the British
Red Cross came to assist Temporary shelters were
set up for the homeless Eventually 70 one-room
concrete houses with galvanized roofs were
constructed for the most destitute
It would take Anguilla several years to recover and
life would remain difficult The lack of forthcoming
help from St Kitts would provide a final grievance
for a longstanding resentment that would culminate
with the Anguilla Revolution in 1967
The aftermath of Hurricane Donna Anguilla 1960 from Colville Petty Hurricane Donna tracking over the Florida Keys after leaving a devastated Anguilla
Hurricane Donna
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
49
History
Anguillians have a long history of raising livestock Cattle
were introduced before 1650 and the first reports of
Anguilla suggest the Island suited them well
ldquoIt [Anguilla] was filled with alligators and other noxious
animals but the soil was good for raising tobaco and corn
and the cattle imported multiplied very fast hellip each
planter laboured for himself and the island was
frequently plundered by maraudersrdquo (Southey 1650)
Anguilla did not have any alligators although at least one
species of iguana is native The iguanas were undoubtedly
mistaken for alligators as no alligator bones or fossils have
ever been found on Anguilla
Export
The settlers introduced other livestock including the
goats sheep and chicken you see today During good
years these animals offered an additional source of
income as they were carried to St Martin or St Barths and
sold In fact as late as the 1980s the ferry between
Anguilla and St Martin was crowded with live chickens
(fowl) and other livestock Such sights are now gone and
most of the goats today are butchered and consumed
locally
Domesticated or Wild
Sometimes seen tethered to the side of the road but more
often caught wandering through the bush with a frayed
rope dangling from the neck Anguillarsquos goats are nearly
native While a few are feral the majority are owned
(although you probably would never know by looking at
them)
As food
Anguillarsquos chickens are also raised for food Scratching
and pecking in yards across the Island these lsquoyard fowlrsquo
are traditionally stewed a process which tenderizes the
tough meat Goat water (a soup made with innards) and
goat stew are two other delicacies you can find locally
Anguilla Goat in Sandy Ground Anguilla (Photo by Robert Pearson)
Cattle Goats Sheep and Chickens
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
50
Phosphate again
In 1868 some of Anguillarsquos caverns were mined for
phosphate a mineral formed over millennia as bird
droppings fossilize In a phosphate-bearing shipment sent
to the United States for analysis Professor Cope of the
Smithsonian Institute discovered the remains of a giant
rodent Amblyrhiza inundata is known locally as the lsquoGiant
Ratrsquo Based on the analysis of bones from several species
the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo more closely resembled a guinea pig and
weighed between 165 and 330lbs
Prehistoric Anguilla
Long before Anguilla was settled by the English or even
Amerindians the Island was joined physically to St Mar-
tin Saba and St Barths This large land mass is now under-
water and called the Anguilla Bank Today only 5 of this
bank is currently above sea level but 100000 years ago
there was much more land This prehistoric landscape
supported amblyrhiza inundata and several other extinct
species As sea level rose the Giant Rat became isolated on
small land masses and a victim of its own size
Anguilla is presently 36 square miles and unable to
naturally support a population of large herbivores (the
largest native species is the iguana)
The exact location of the fossil finds on Anguilla is
debated The cavern where the fossils came from was
invariably mined for phosphate a destructive process
which involves blasting to extract the mineral-bearing
stone Gavannah Cave in Crocus Bay is a likely candidate
and a keen observer can still find sea fossils from an even
earlier period in the nearby cliff Additional teeth from
Amblyrhiza inundata were found in the 1990s in Pitch Apple
Hole a sinkhole between the Valley and Shoal Bay East
The lsquoGiant Ratrsquo
Additional bones of the lsquoGiant Ratrsquo were found in this sinkhole in the 1990s
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
51
Exploring Anguilla and
Additional Resources
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
52
Introduction to the Anguilla Heritage Trail
The Anguilla Heritage Trail is a joint project
supported by the Anguilla Archaeological and
Historical Society (AAHS) the Anguilla National
Trust (ANT) the Anguilla Tourist Board (ATB) the
Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association (AHTA)
and individual and corporate donors The trail
opened during Anguilla Day celebrations May 2010
The trail styled on successful Caribbean models in
Grand Cayman and Nevis aims to introduce visitors
and locals to Anguillarsquos past by creating permanent
markers at 10 historic sites which were selected by
public vote in 2010
In addition to the markers there are 30 directional
signs to guide drivers to the sites and an interpretive
brochure which will is available from hotels car
rental agencies and selected sites along the trail The
sites included are Collville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection Old Valley Well Old Courthouse
Foundations (Crocus Hill) Koal Keelaka Wardens
Place Katouche Bay Rendezvous Bay Sandy
Ground (near the scenic overlook on Backstreet)
Pumphouse Wallblake House and the Factory
Each site is marked with a large local boulder and
plaque with a brief description The Official Opening
was held at the Pumphouse in Sandy Ground on
May 31 2010
There is no official beginning but you may wish to
obtain a souvenir brochure which will give you more
information about the sites before you begin
Souvenir brochures are available from the Heritage
Trail Headquarters at Wallblake House in the Valley
and may also be found at Colville Pettyrsquos Heritage
Collection in East End the Anguilla National Trust
the Anguilla Tourist Board the Anguilla Drug Store
in The Valley or from the concierge at your hotel
The brochure is USD$3 but you may wish to make an
additional donation to support Anguilla Heritage
Please leave your donation at Wallblake House
Depending on how long you stop at each site the
trail will take you approximately 1 frac12 hours There
are blue and orange directional signs with the Trail
logo to help guide you from one location to the next
and each site is marked in the brochure on a map of
Anguilla For more information on how you can be-
come a sponsor or volunteer email
anguillaheritagetrailgmailcom
Anguilla Heritage Trail Directional Signs
Plaque Outside the Pumphouse a Heritage Trail
Site
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
53
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
54
Berglund D (1995) Shipwrecks of Anguilla 1628-1996 Basseterre
The Creole Publishing Company
Blanchard M and R (2000) A Trip to the Beach Ebury Press
London
Carty D (1998) Nuttin Bafflinrsquo The Story of the Anguilla Racing
Boat Anguilla Rockfield
Petty C (2008) Bless Our Forebears Published by Colville Petty
Anguilla
Westlake D (1973) Under an English Heaven Hodder and
Stoughton London
httpaahsanguillacom
Includes articles and original photographs of Anguilla
httpaxanationaltrustorg
Information on Anguillarsquos heritage including current
initiatives
wwwaxaheritagecom
A new website with information on Heritage Trail Sites and
sustainable heritage tourism (to be online from summer
2012)
Additional Reading and On-line Resources
55
55