ancient turks costume in a color images
TRANSCRIPT
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.. : ()Yatsenko S.A. ANCIENT TURKS: COSTUME IN A COLOR IMAGES
SummaryThree most interesting collections of the color images of Early Turks are analyzed. There are the
sarcophaguses and funerary couches of Sogdians and other Northern Barbarinas form the Western
China of the end of the 6th-7th cc. AD; the wall painting of the Hall of Ambassadors in
Afrasiab/Samarkand of the 3rd quarter of the 7th c.; the wall painting and painting on textiles of Uygur
kingdom in Xinjiang of the late 9th 11th cc. They give the interesting and partly unique information
about the costume of Early Turkic peoples.
.. : .
. VI X .:
VI-VII. .., /
VII. IX XI.
.
VI X.:
VI-VII . .., / VII .
IX XI .
.
, 551 ., ,
-, . , ( ), , .
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, . , (1). .
. 1. - -
( , - , . -). ..
, 2007 .
Fig. 1.Early Turkic statue Chengis-khan the object of modern adoration (Tuva Republic, Barun-
Khemchik region, near Bizhiktig-Khaya village). Photo of Marina E. Kilunovskaya, 2007.
-XI . (,,, ) , (, , , ). . :- 2-. VI . VII ., VII . /, , , , -
, () 2-. IX XI . (2). (, ) ,
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. , , . , . (, 2000, . 296-304; Yatsenko 2004; ,2006, . 246-247). .
(. 1) , , , , , (., : , 2003, . 238); (.: , 2007, . 126-128). , , - (490-480 . ..), VII ( XI,
) (., : Cohen, 2006, p. 192).
1. -
3-. VI . VII., .. , 618 . .. (.2).
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. 2.
2-. VI . VII. : 1 (Yu Hong) , 592 ., .
, (.., 2001, . 34; . 14); 2
(An Qie), 579 ., . (. ), (Juliano,
Lerner, 2001, p. 226, fig. 4).
Fig. 2. Marble funerary constructions of the officials of Central Asian origin of the 2nd half of the 6th
the beg. of the 7th cc. from Northern China: 1 sarcophagus of Yu Hong and his wife (592 AD) from
Taiyuan, Sui dynasty (after Wenwu, 2001/1, p. 34, fig. 14); 2 funeral couch of An Qie (579) from Xian,Northern Zhou dynasty (after Juliano, Lerner, 2001, p. 226, fig. 4).
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, , (3). ,, (., : .., 2001, . 4-26, . 12;.., 2001, . 27-52; Marshak, 2001, p. 228-264; An Jia [Qie] Tomb, 2003; Lerner, 2005;
Juliano, 2006a, p. 293-316). - (), - . , ( ) . , , , .. . ( , ), . -, , , ,
, (4). , , , (5).
(An Qie) (6) ( (]). , 579 . .. . (7); (. ) (.., 2001, . 4-26; . 12;Juliano, 2006, p. 295). . (553-572) , , (572-581), , , (8). , , , . , ( beq) () (, , ..) ( (?), (?))... (Marshak, 2004, p. 25), ,, (9). , () , , - (,
). , , , , , ( ).
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. 3. (An Jia
[Qie] Tomb, 2003, pl. 54) ( ..
).
[I]Fig. 3. An Qie meeting with a noble Turk (after An Jia
[Qie] Tomb, 2003, pl. 54).
(. 3), (?) - ( ). : , . -
, 12 . , .. (, , , .. ); (. ). , ( (?) ; ). (), .
. ( ), . - .
; . . , , .. ( , ), , ().
, ( - ) , . - (., : , 2006, . 49,1), (
,. 181, 40; 184). , (, ) , -
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(. III . 9).
, ( ?) ( , ) .
( ). ( , ) , (). , : ( ), ; (, , ), . , , ( ); :. 8, 18).
. 4. (An
Jia [Qie] Tomb, 2003, pl. 63) (..
).
Fig. 4. An Qie banquet with a noble Turk (after An Jia
[Qie] Tomb, 2003, pl. 63).
(?) (. 4). -, , ; ; . , . : , (
-, : ,1981, . 17, 1), , , . ( ) . .
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, - ( , , ). , , ,, , , ). , ,
, . , , (. 3), , , -.
() : , , . , , . , . -, . ().
, , ; , () (); , . -. ( ) , , . , ; , . : , , , .
VI-VII . (Miho Museum) ; , , . . , , sagdid . , . ; (Miho Museum, 1997, p.250, fig. C; Juliano, Lerner, 2001, p. 309, fig. K) (. 5). (!) (?), . .
, .
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. 5.
(, . ) (Miho Museum, 1997, p.
250, fig. C) ( .. ).
Fig. 5. Panel of the funerary couch from Miho Museum,
(Shigaraki, Japan) (after Miho Museum, 1997, p. 250, fig.
C).
. , , , , (, , ) (?). : ; ,
. , , , , ( ). , . , , ( ), (, -) ( VIII-IX .) (10).
, VI VII . , 590 . (11). : , . .
. , , , , (, , ).
, . . -, . -, . -, , (?). -, . - . ( ) : ,
- (?). . , , . , - (?)
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. , (?) , , - . , ( , , ). : .
: , , , .
(Yu Hong), 592 . ( ) . (. ) (.., 2001, . 27-52). , , , . , ; .
, , (., : Juliano, 2006b, p. 29), , . ,; .; , , ( , , ).
Fig. 6. 4 ( )
(592 .) . ,. . .
(.., 2001, . 36, . 19).
Fig. 6. The marble sarcophagus of Yu Hong (592 AD),
panel 4 (northern wall, eastern panel). The hunting scene of
Turkic man (after Wenwu, 2001/1, p. 36, fig. 19).
4 (. 6). , . :
, , ; ( ) . , ( ) (.: .., 2001, . 38,. 20 . 36, . 17). - , (), - (
); .
. (, ?) , (. ,
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). (. ). ( - ) . (, ). -, ( ).
, , .
, ( ) , . ( , ). () - -(.: , 2006, . 179; . 121, 35). , (.: , . 181, 49-50 182, 19);
() (, ) . , , - , ( ) . , , () , ., (, . 57, 2 58, 9;59, 2; 60, 5; 62, 3). ( IV-VI . , , ) (. ) . , VI . , .
(, ). , - (.: , . 59,2-3; ); ( , . 60, 1-2). - , (, . 59, 1, 3-4). ,
- ( , ). , - , . ( ? ? , ?).
2. (, ) VI-VII. .. ,
. . , , - . (Grnwedel, 1912, S. 180, Fig. 415)
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. 7.
.
.
(), VI-VII .
(Grnwedel, 1912, S. 180, Fig. 415).
Fig. 7. The peoples of the World
mourn the Buddha. Fragment of thewall painting in the Cave of Maya.
Qizil (Mingoi), 6th-7th cc. AD (after
Grnwedel, 1912, S. 180, Fig. 415).
, , .
. , , (), . () (. : ). , . -, II-III . ..
. (, 1966, . XIX, 83). , - - , IX-X . ( ) (Grnwedel, 1912, Fig. 566). . , , , (., , , - - :, 1999,. 104, 1). 2-.XI . XIII . . (, 1974, 4, 7, 11, 14, 43, 53, 58, 133, 327, 358, 698, 1092, 1129, 1233, 1234,1284, 1287, 1300, 1302). (, . 31, 273),
() (, . 12, 45).
( ). ( ..) / ( , II(57-38 . ..:, 2006, . 125) / (, . 183). , . , IX ., , , ,, (., : Maillard, 1973, pl. 150b;,
2000, . 64, 3-4); () .
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, . : , . .
3. () 3- VII. ..
1965 . , , ( 23, I; III). (, , ), , , , . , , .. .. (), , (12). ( , , ,
: Mode, 1993, S. 74). , , ( . : SilviAntonini, 1989, p. 109-144), , ().
1966 . .. (, 1975). - ( ), ( , ). 1978 . .. : - . , . 1978 . 1994 . .. .. . ,.. .. (, , 2005, . 122-137; . : Arzhantseva, Inevatkina, 2006, p. 185-211). , , .. ( ,
), (-) . , . , , . (Yatsenko, 2004) -, , .. .. , () (13).
1990- , , , .
. : ,
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,
VII . .., (.. , .. , . , ... .. );
. , , , ( ). , .. .. , , - (!), / (14) (Azarpay, 1981, p. 61-63). .. , , , , .., ,, (,1999, . 71-72, 75-76, 77-79). , - , - ,
(Compareti, Christoforetti, 2004; 2007, p. 25) .. , , ( ), - , (., : , , 1986, . 34).
, ,, ., ( ., , .. [, 1983; 1987] [, 1986] , ). : , , , , , , . , , ( - ) , (15).
,
(, .., , , : , 1999, . 76). , , , . , , ( ) ( ), , (.: Yatsenko, 2004, p. 1-43;, 2006, . 248-262, 267-274, 337-339, 345, 360-362).
, , , . (), .
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, 1 (, ) (16) ( , , - , ). , ,
, , . 676 ., , , , (, 1990, . 19; 1999, . 11). , , , , . , (!) (, 1999, . 75).
( 1994 .) , , (,
1995, . 13-16; Yatsenko 2004), , . , , , , , , , , , ().
, , , . - . ( ) , , , , -, . . , 662 . .. (17).
, , , . , () . , , , 1,
, . , ,.
(Yatsenko, 2004) 5 , . , , - .
.
(), . -, ,, ( / : , 1975): 2-4 ; 1-4, 13-15 .
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, . -, ( 651 .), , , (18). , , , ,
; VI ., - , (Frye, 1993, p. 75). (.,: , 2001, . 9, 13-14).
, , .
, , (, 1975, . 30-34). , ,
, . ( - , ) ( , - - ) - . , ( - 28 ). , , . , : ?, , -, (., : Kageyama, 2002,pp. 309-323) (19). -, , (20). () . , , - VII-VIII . .. , 662 . (21) .
: -, 3-5 ( ? , ); -, () , -. ( - ) II-IV ., (, 2006, . 204,282; . 154, 7). , () (), (/ 42; . 8, 18).
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. 8.
/
( ; 4,
23 III) ( Yatsenko, 2004, pl.
1):
1 - 15, 16, 29, 42; 2 -
39; 3 - 28; 4 - III; 5 - 6, 19, 26; 6 -
5, 18; 7 - 5, 6; 8 -
19; 9 - ; 10 -
18; 11 - 19; 12 - 5,
18, 28, 42; 13 - 19 (
), 26, 27; 14 - 5, 18;
15 - 26, 28, 39; 16 -
16, 39, 41; 17 - 6; 18 -
42; 19, 20 - 6; 21 -
28; 22 - 18, (42 ?);
23 - III.Fig. 8. The male costume of the
Turks in Afrasiab/Samarkand (the
western wall of the hall 23/1): 1 -
personages 15, 16, 29, 42; 2 -
personage 39; 3, 21 - personage 28;
4 - the hall III; 5 - personages 6, 19,
26; 6 - personages 5, 18; 7 - personages 5, 6; 8 - personage 19; 9 - many personages; 10 - personage 18;
11 - personage 19; 12 - personages 5, 18, 28, 42; 13 - personages 19 (the under clothes), 26, 27; 14 -
personages 5, 18; 15 - personages 26, 28, 39; 16 - personages 16, 39, 41; 17, 19-20 - personage 6; 18 -
personage 42; 22 - personages 18, (42?); 23 - the hall III (after Yatsenko, 2004, pl. 1).
, . , , -, (, . 282), , (, 1975, . 19, 7); ( 1).
-. (, 1979, . 25), (, 2006, . 215; . 157, 29).
(, 1975, . 5, 5) (. 8, 14). (, 1985, . II, 3) (, 1970, . 8). ( ) III:. 9).
.. , (,1975, . 32). , , , , , , .
(22) , : 1) 2) - ( ); 3) (. ); 4) ; 5) (23).
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() (6, . ). , , ,, . (24). ( , ) , (. ) (. 8, 9).
, , .
-. 1998 ., () (, 26-27), , ; () ( 5-6) (?), (.: , , 2005,. 3, 7 27). () ( 18-19) , (?). . ( 26, 27), ,
: () - ( ). 19, , , (. ) (. 8, 13).
,
() () . ( ?) ( 5, 26). - ( 6, 27) ( ); - ( 19), ( 27).
, ( 19 27) - (). , , () (, 1987, . 237-239). VII-VIII . , , . - , (Osmanlitarihleri, 1949, s. 385). , (, , ) VII-VIII . (, , , 1984, . 168). 19 27 -
.
, () , ( 6, 19). , . (?), , , () ( 6: . 8, 17,19). , , . 19 - (), , ..
- .
() ( 5, 18) (. 8, 14). ,
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- Y, 28, 38, 39 42 () ( 5 : . 8, 12; .: , , 2005, . 133), - ( 18).
. , . () 6(, 1975, . 22) (. 8, 20) (25); IX . , (-): 16-18 . ; . . 13, 1; 15, 11; , 2000, .370; . 66, 11). (, ) 18 : - 4 - (, 1987, . 8, 5-8)(, , ; .: , 1987,. 8, 19).
(, 1990, . XXV, 1-2), - (, 1993, . 89-92)., 9 ( , / ) , 11 ( , / ). 6 19. (, 1952, . 18-19) (, 1966, . VII, 33), . VII . VIII . (, 2006, . 282;. 181, 71).
, () (, ). , , . , .
( 36), . . . ( 35); ,
( - ) , , -(, ) . 36 , ( () (). , (, , , : , , 2005, . 1, , 36)., , . (?), .
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. 9. /.
.
III, VI-VII
. (, 1975, . V).
Fig. 9. Afrasiab/Samarkand. The
noble Turkic man. Fragment of the
wall painting of the Hall III, 7th c.AD (after Albaum, 1975, pl. V).
, , (. 28, 29),, , (. 8,2),
( 28, 37, 39, 40, 41); - , . ( 28, 42), ,
, (, 1987,. 8, 1-3) (. 8, 21).
, , ( , ). , , ( 31). , , 33-34. ( )
( 32 31), . ,- , . 200 , , , - (Chavannes, 1903, p. 194)., , ( 5, 19).
, . ( .: Mode, 1993, S. 28-29, Abb. 8-9). ,
, (42 42); 35 36, . ( 37 38) ( 39, 40 41), .
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(, ); - 18.
, ( ) 15, 16, 17. ,. 1978 . ,
, (.. ). , , /, (?) - ( 15 17 , 16 ). , , (.. .. , , , ). 4 , , . , .
. 10. IX-XI.: 1 , (Le Coq, 1913,
Taf. 7a); 2 , VII (Bussagli, 1979, p. 93); 3 , 9 (Bussagli, 1979, p.
107).
Fig. 10. The female costume of Uygurs from Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc.: 1 Chotcho (Qoo), Christian
temple (Le Coq, 1913, Taf. 7a); 2 Shorchuq (Soruq), cave VII (Bussagli, 1979, p. 93); 3 Bzklik,
temple 9 (Le Coq, 1913, Taf. 30).
, . 36 , ,..,
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- ,, , . , , , ( ) . , ( 36; , 1-4).
1. , ( 6, 9, 27, ( 27: ). ( 19 27). , ( 6). , ( 6) ( 19). ( 6). . , 6 30 . , , , , 40-50 (,1990, . 78).
. 11. IX-
XI . ( ,
2000, . 68 57/4):
1, 4 ; 2-3 (
); 5 () ( . ).
Fig. 11. The female costume of Uygurs from
Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc. (after/Yatsenko,
2000, pl. 68 and 57/4).
III, (, 1975, . V) (. 9). , , , ( 6)
, (. 6 1). : .
(,1975, . V) (. 8, 23). , - ( VII ., 641-642 ., ), . , , VII-VIII ., , 6 7 .. (, 1989, .
2, 1; 3, 1-2). , IX . (Grnwedel, 1912,. 56, 664); . : , 1987,. 8 , 13-14.
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2., 5 , . , ( 28-31, 35, 37-40, 42). / ( 5, 18, 26?). ( ) ( , ). ,
). 11 2 , (, 1990, . 74). -, ().
. 12. IX-XII
. ( , 2000, . 69):
1 (); 2 , 6;
3 , 19; 4 ,
9; 5 , 7; 6 ().
(1
, . 3,
., 1995; 2-4 . ; 5-6
Along the Ancient Silk Routes, New York,
1982).
Fig. 12. The male costume of Uygurs from
Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc. (after
/Yatsenko, 2000, pl. 69).
3. 15-17 , , . , , . - , . ,
(, 1990, . 73).
.
-, , , , ( III, , , ). ,
(, , , ). , (Chavannes, 1903, p. 194).-, ( 19) - - , ,
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(. 8, 13). , , , ( : Northern Qi Tomb, 1990, p. 8, fig. 8); 36. -, ( 39 III: .:
, 1976, . V) 3 ( ) (?)(. 8, 4) (26). 18. ( ) . -, , ( 42) (. 8, 18). -, (, , 2, 3, 4 , 9,11 - ). III (.. , , , /), (?). , (
) ().
. 13. IX-XI. : 1 (Le Coq,
1913, Taf. 7a); 2 (Bussagli, 1979, p. 105); 3 (Le
Coq, 1913, Taf. 3b).
Fig. 13. The male costume of Uygurs from Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc. from Khotcho/Qoo. , , ( ) .
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. , , (27) - ( , 3), 36 ( ) .
( 5, 6), . III , .
4. () IX - XI. 4- (, 2000, . 367-382; . 64-69) (28). (. ) (744-840 .), , () 874 ., , . , .
( XV ) .
. 14.
IX-XI. (6) (, 2000, .
67 63/2):
1 , 9; 2 , 2;
3 ; 4 , 11; 5
; 6 , .
(1 . ; 2 . ; 2-3, 5 . ; 4 ..
).
Fig. 14. The male costume of Uygurs from
Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc. and Eearly Turk
man image (6) (after/Yatsenko, 2000,
pl. 67 and 63/2).
?
, (.10-11; 12, 4-6; 16, 1-9; 17, 1-7) ( ). -, , 5-6
, , (, 1974,. 45). -- , ,
, (, . 89, 168). , , . , /;
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(. 10, 3; 11, 3;12, 4; 16, 7-9). - (. IX .) (. 10, 1; 11, 5). - (Nowgorodowa, 1980, S. 246), (29). ,
(, 1990, . VIII, 2; XII): ( 6 ..) (Le Coq, 1925, Taf.42, 43) (. 17, 2) , ( 1 .., ) ( , : Le Coq, 1913, Taf. 63) (. 17, 5).
. 15.
IX-XI . ( , 2000, . 66):
1, 4-5, 7-8, 10-14 ; 9, 15
; 2, 3, 6
; 10 ( ).
: 1-4, 6 ;
7 , 11; 8 ; 9
-; 11, 13 , 9;
14 , ; 15 , Z.
(1-6, 9-14 . ; 7 ..
; 8 . ; 15
Along the Ancient Silk Routes, New York,
1982).
Fig. 15. Foot gear and belts of Uygurs from
Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc. and Eearly Turk
man image (6) (after/Yatsenko, 2000,
pl. 66).
-, () ( , , ) (30); ,
( ). XII ., ,
(, 1974, . 92) (., , 409 : Dunchuang Institute.., 1983, pl. 109), (31).-, (. 16-17) , . ,
() (, 200, . 369-372). ( -) , , , (
-
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). , , (, , - ); ( , , , ); ;
4-6 ( ) (. 13, 1; 14, 2; 15,11; 17, 10).. 16.
IX-XIV . (,
2000, . 64):
1, 3-16, 18-19 ; 2, 15, 19-
21 ; 17
.
: 1 ,
37; 3 , 9; 4
, Z; 5 ; 6 ,
33; 7 , 7; 8 , 12; 9 , 40; 10-11
, 9; 12 , 2; 13
; 14 , 3; 16
, ; 17 , ; 18
, 4; 20 ; 21 .
(2-4, 7, 9-12, 14-15, 18, 20-21 .
; 1, 6, 17, 19 . ; 5,
8 . ; 13 .. ; 16
. ).
Fig. 16. Haircut, coiffure and headdresses of
Uygurs from Xinjiang of the 9th-14th cc. and
Eearly Turk man image (6) (after
/Yatsenko, 2000, pl. 64).
. () ; , . . , , : , , ; 4-6 ) (. 15, 9, 12; 17, 18).
( , ). . 4-6 ( )(. 15, 10, 13; 17, 19). , ; ; , , ; - (. 12, 2; 16, 10).
-, ,
( 2 12; , ) , ; ( ) .
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. 17.
IX-XII . ( , 2000,
. 65):
1-3, 8, 12-16, 18-24 ; 4-7,
9, 11, 17 ; 5
.
: 1 , 7; 2 ,
; 3-6, 9, 11, 17, 20 ; 8
, ; 10, 12 , 9;
13 , 3; 15 ,
11; 16 , ; 17, 21
(); 18, 19 ,
; 22-23 , 7.
(1-5, 7-12, 14, 18 . ; 13, 15, 19,
20 . ; 17, 21 ..
; 6 .. ; 16
. ; 22-23 Along the AncientSilk Routes, New York, 1982).
Fig. 17. Headdresses of Uygurs from Xinjiang
of the 9th-12th cc. (after /Yatsenko,
2000, pl. 65).
-, IX-XI .
. , , (. 13, 3), , (. 12, 1-2, 5) , , ( ) , (. 16, 1, 5-6), , .
, , . .
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.. //. . 3. ., 1993... . , 1975... //. .
XIII. ., 1983. .. . . . (). .: , 1986 (. , 19918)... //.
. 21. , 1987..., .. : ,
//: , , (. . .. , ..). ., 2005.. VII ... //
. - ., 1990.
.. . , 1999... . . . ., 1973..., .. //
. . IV. ., 1979... , . .
I. ., 1950..., .. . , 1986... . ., 1991... . , 1990... . , 1999. .. ? //
. . II (.. .. ). ., 2003... //
(. . 3). , 2007... //
. . 24. ., 1952... . . ., 1992. .. //
. , 1987..., .., .. (VII-XIII .). .,
1984... ( ) //. ., 1979.
.. ( ). . (). : ,1991.
.. IX-XII . , 1974... . , 1989...
// (.. .. ). , 1999. .. VIII-IX . - :
. . . . . ., 2001... . ., 1974.
-
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.. // . . XXVI. ., 1970...
, 1893-1895 .. I. . 1. ., 1900. (,)
//. 2001. 1 (. .).
(.. .. ). ., 1981. (, ,. , ) //. 2001. 1 (. .).. () //.
1959. 8... // .
1989. 3... XIX XX .:
-. ., 1990... . , ., 1966.. . . .,
1981... . , 1966. (). . 3. , 1956 (. )... ,
.// - . . (). . 3, 1. , 1995... 3 //
( IV). . . . (.. .. ). ., 2000... (). ., 2006.Arzhantseva I., Inevatkina O. Afrasiab Wall-paintings revisited: new discoveries twenty five years old
// Royal Nawruz in Samarkand. Acts of the Conference held in Venice on the Pre-Islamic Afrasiab
Painting (Ed. by M. Compareti, E. de la Vaissre). Rome, 2006.Azapray G. Sogdian Painting. The Pictoral Epic in Oriental Art. Berkeley, Los Angeles, London,
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