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  • 7/28/2019 Ancient Turks Costume in a Color Images

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    .. : ()Yatsenko S.A. ANCIENT TURKS: COSTUME IN A COLOR IMAGES

    SummaryThree most interesting collections of the color images of Early Turks are analyzed. There are the

    sarcophaguses and funerary couches of Sogdians and other Northern Barbarinas form the Western

    China of the end of the 6th-7th cc. AD; the wall painting of the Hall of Ambassadors in

    Afrasiab/Samarkand of the 3rd quarter of the 7th c.; the wall painting and painting on textiles of Uygur

    kingdom in Xinjiang of the late 9th 11th cc. They give the interesting and partly unique information

    about the costume of Early Turkic peoples.

    .. : .

    . VI X .:

    VI-VII. .., /

    VII. IX XI.

    .

    VI X.:

    VI-VII . .., / VII .

    IX XI .

    .

    , 551 ., ,

    -, . , ( ), , .

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    , . , (1). .

    . 1. - -

    ( , - , . -). ..

    , 2007 .

    Fig. 1.Early Turkic statue Chengis-khan the object of modern adoration (Tuva Republic, Barun-

    Khemchik region, near Bizhiktig-Khaya village). Photo of Marina E. Kilunovskaya, 2007.

    -XI . (,,, ) , (, , , ). . :- 2-. VI . VII ., VII . /, , , , -

    , () 2-. IX XI . (2). (, ) ,

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    . , , . , . (, 2000, . 296-304; Yatsenko 2004; ,2006, . 246-247). .

    (. 1) , , , , , (., : , 2003, . 238); (.: , 2007, . 126-128). , , - (490-480 . ..), VII ( XI,

    ) (., : Cohen, 2006, p. 192).

    1. -

    3-. VI . VII., .. , 618 . .. (.2).

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    . 2.

    2-. VI . VII. : 1 (Yu Hong) , 592 ., .

    , (.., 2001, . 34; . 14); 2

    (An Qie), 579 ., . (. ), (Juliano,

    Lerner, 2001, p. 226, fig. 4).

    Fig. 2. Marble funerary constructions of the officials of Central Asian origin of the 2nd half of the 6th

    the beg. of the 7th cc. from Northern China: 1 sarcophagus of Yu Hong and his wife (592 AD) from

    Taiyuan, Sui dynasty (after Wenwu, 2001/1, p. 34, fig. 14); 2 funeral couch of An Qie (579) from Xian,Northern Zhou dynasty (after Juliano, Lerner, 2001, p. 226, fig. 4).

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    , , (3). ,, (., : .., 2001, . 4-26, . 12;.., 2001, . 27-52; Marshak, 2001, p. 228-264; An Jia [Qie] Tomb, 2003; Lerner, 2005;

    Juliano, 2006a, p. 293-316). - (), - . , ( ) . , , , .. . ( , ), . -, , , ,

    , (4). , , , (5).

    (An Qie) (6) ( (]). , 579 . .. . (7); (. ) (.., 2001, . 4-26; . 12;Juliano, 2006, p. 295). . (553-572) , , (572-581), , , (8). , , , . , ( beq) () (, , ..) ( (?), (?))... (Marshak, 2004, p. 25), ,, (9). , () , , - (,

    ). , , , , , ( ).

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    . 3. (An Jia

    [Qie] Tomb, 2003, pl. 54) ( ..

    ).

    [I]Fig. 3. An Qie meeting with a noble Turk (after An Jia

    [Qie] Tomb, 2003, pl. 54).

    (. 3), (?) - ( ). : , . -

    , 12 . , .. (, , , .. ); (. ). , ( (?) ; ). (), .

    . ( ), . - .

    ; . . , , .. ( , ), , ().

    , ( - ) , . - (., : , 2006, . 49,1), (

    ,. 181, 40; 184). , (, ) , -

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    (. III . 9).

    , ( ?) ( , ) .

    ( ). ( , ) , (). , : ( ), ; (, , ), . , , ( ); :. 8, 18).

    . 4. (An

    Jia [Qie] Tomb, 2003, pl. 63) (..

    ).

    Fig. 4. An Qie banquet with a noble Turk (after An Jia

    [Qie] Tomb, 2003, pl. 63).

    (?) (. 4). -, , ; ; . , . : , (

    -, : ,1981, . 17, 1), , , . ( ) . .

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    , - ( , , ). , , ,, , , ). , ,

    , . , , (. 3), , , -.

    () : , , . , , . , . -, . ().

    , , ; , () (); , . -. ( ) , , . , ; , . : , , , .

    VI-VII . (Miho Museum) ; , , . . , , sagdid . , . ; (Miho Museum, 1997, p.250, fig. C; Juliano, Lerner, 2001, p. 309, fig. K) (. 5). (!) (?), . .

    , .

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    . 5.

    (, . ) (Miho Museum, 1997, p.

    250, fig. C) ( .. ).

    Fig. 5. Panel of the funerary couch from Miho Museum,

    (Shigaraki, Japan) (after Miho Museum, 1997, p. 250, fig.

    C).

    . , , , , (, , ) (?). : ; ,

    . , , , , ( ). , . , , ( ), (, -) ( VIII-IX .) (10).

    , VI VII . , 590 . (11). : , . .

    . , , , , (, , ).

    , . . -, . -, . -, , (?). -, . - . ( ) : ,

    - (?). . , , . , - (?)

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    . , (?) , , - . , ( , , ). : .

    : , , , .

    (Yu Hong), 592 . ( ) . (. ) (.., 2001, . 27-52). , , , . , ; .

    , , (., : Juliano, 2006b, p. 29), , . ,; .; , , ( , , ).

    Fig. 6. 4 ( )

    (592 .) . ,. . .

    (.., 2001, . 36, . 19).

    Fig. 6. The marble sarcophagus of Yu Hong (592 AD),

    panel 4 (northern wall, eastern panel). The hunting scene of

    Turkic man (after Wenwu, 2001/1, p. 36, fig. 19).

    4 (. 6). , . :

    , , ; ( ) . , ( ) (.: .., 2001, . 38,. 20 . 36, . 17). - , (), - (

    ); .

    . (, ?) , (. ,

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    ). (. ). ( - ) . (, ). -, ( ).

    , , .

    , ( ) , . ( , ). () - -(.: , 2006, . 179; . 121, 35). , (.: , . 181, 49-50 182, 19);

    () (, ) . , , - , ( ) . , , () , ., (, . 57, 2 58, 9;59, 2; 60, 5; 62, 3). ( IV-VI . , , ) (. ) . , VI . , .

    (, ). , - (.: , . 59,2-3; ); ( , . 60, 1-2). - , (, . 59, 1, 3-4). ,

    - ( , ). , - , . ( ? ? , ?).

    2. (, ) VI-VII. .. ,

    . . , , - . (Grnwedel, 1912, S. 180, Fig. 415)

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    . 7.

    .

    .

    (), VI-VII .

    (Grnwedel, 1912, S. 180, Fig. 415).

    Fig. 7. The peoples of the World

    mourn the Buddha. Fragment of thewall painting in the Cave of Maya.

    Qizil (Mingoi), 6th-7th cc. AD (after

    Grnwedel, 1912, S. 180, Fig. 415).

    , , .

    . , , (), . () (. : ). , . -, II-III . ..

    . (, 1966, . XIX, 83). , - - , IX-X . ( ) (Grnwedel, 1912, Fig. 566). . , , , (., , , - - :, 1999,. 104, 1). 2-.XI . XIII . . (, 1974, 4, 7, 11, 14, 43, 53, 58, 133, 327, 358, 698, 1092, 1129, 1233, 1234,1284, 1287, 1300, 1302). (, . 31, 273),

    () (, . 12, 45).

    ( ). ( ..) / ( , II(57-38 . ..:, 2006, . 125) / (, . 183). , . , IX ., , , ,, (., : Maillard, 1973, pl. 150b;,

    2000, . 64, 3-4); () .

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    , . : , . .

    3. () 3- VII. ..

    1965 . , , ( 23, I; III). (, , ), , , , . , , .. .. (), , (12). ( , , ,

    : Mode, 1993, S. 74). , , ( . : SilviAntonini, 1989, p. 109-144), , ().

    1966 . .. (, 1975). - ( ), ( , ). 1978 . .. : - . , . 1978 . 1994 . .. .. . ,.. .. (, , 2005, . 122-137; . : Arzhantseva, Inevatkina, 2006, p. 185-211). , , .. ( ,

    ), (-) . , . , , . (Yatsenko, 2004) -, , .. .. , () (13).

    1990- , , , .

    . : ,

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    ,

    VII . .., (.. , .. , . , ... .. );

    . , , , ( ). , .. .. , , - (!), / (14) (Azarpay, 1981, p. 61-63). .. , , , , .., ,, (,1999, . 71-72, 75-76, 77-79). , - , - ,

    (Compareti, Christoforetti, 2004; 2007, p. 25) .. , , ( ), - , (., : , , 1986, . 34).

    , ,, ., ( ., , .. [, 1983; 1987] [, 1986] , ). : , , , , , , . , , ( - ) , (15).

    ,

    (, .., , , : , 1999, . 76). , , , . , , ( ) ( ), , (.: Yatsenko, 2004, p. 1-43;, 2006, . 248-262, 267-274, 337-339, 345, 360-362).

    , , , . (), .

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    , 1 (, ) (16) ( , , - , ). , ,

    , , . 676 ., , , , (, 1990, . 19; 1999, . 11). , , , , . , (!) (, 1999, . 75).

    ( 1994 .) , , (,

    1995, . 13-16; Yatsenko 2004), , . , , , , , , , , , ().

    , , , . - . ( ) , , , , -, . . , 662 . .. (17).

    , , , . , () . , , , 1,

    , . , ,.

    (Yatsenko, 2004) 5 , . , , - .

    .

    (), . -, ,, ( / : , 1975): 2-4 ; 1-4, 13-15 .

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    , . -, ( 651 .), , , (18). , , , ,

    ; VI ., - , (Frye, 1993, p. 75). (.,: , 2001, . 9, 13-14).

    , , .

    , , (, 1975, . 30-34). , ,

    , . ( - , ) ( , - - ) - . , ( - 28 ). , , . , : ?, , -, (., : Kageyama, 2002,pp. 309-323) (19). -, , (20). () . , , - VII-VIII . .. , 662 . (21) .

    : -, 3-5 ( ? , ); -, () , -. ( - ) II-IV ., (, 2006, . 204,282; . 154, 7). , () (), (/ 42; . 8, 18).

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    . 8.

    /

    ( ; 4,

    23 III) ( Yatsenko, 2004, pl.

    1):

    1 - 15, 16, 29, 42; 2 -

    39; 3 - 28; 4 - III; 5 - 6, 19, 26; 6 -

    5, 18; 7 - 5, 6; 8 -

    19; 9 - ; 10 -

    18; 11 - 19; 12 - 5,

    18, 28, 42; 13 - 19 (

    ), 26, 27; 14 - 5, 18;

    15 - 26, 28, 39; 16 -

    16, 39, 41; 17 - 6; 18 -

    42; 19, 20 - 6; 21 -

    28; 22 - 18, (42 ?);

    23 - III.Fig. 8. The male costume of the

    Turks in Afrasiab/Samarkand (the

    western wall of the hall 23/1): 1 -

    personages 15, 16, 29, 42; 2 -

    personage 39; 3, 21 - personage 28;

    4 - the hall III; 5 - personages 6, 19,

    26; 6 - personages 5, 18; 7 - personages 5, 6; 8 - personage 19; 9 - many personages; 10 - personage 18;

    11 - personage 19; 12 - personages 5, 18, 28, 42; 13 - personages 19 (the under clothes), 26, 27; 14 -

    personages 5, 18; 15 - personages 26, 28, 39; 16 - personages 16, 39, 41; 17, 19-20 - personage 6; 18 -

    personage 42; 22 - personages 18, (42?); 23 - the hall III (after Yatsenko, 2004, pl. 1).

    , . , , -, (, . 282), , (, 1975, . 19, 7); ( 1).

    -. (, 1979, . 25), (, 2006, . 215; . 157, 29).

    (, 1975, . 5, 5) (. 8, 14). (, 1985, . II, 3) (, 1970, . 8). ( ) III:. 9).

    .. , (,1975, . 32). , , , , , , .

    (22) , : 1) 2) - ( ); 3) (. ); 4) ; 5) (23).

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    () (6, . ). , , ,, . (24). ( , ) , (. ) (. 8, 9).

    , , .

    -. 1998 ., () (, 26-27), , ; () ( 5-6) (?), (.: , , 2005,. 3, 7 27). () ( 18-19) , (?). . ( 26, 27), ,

    : () - ( ). 19, , , (. ) (. 8, 13).

    ,

    () () . ( ?) ( 5, 26). - ( 6, 27) ( ); - ( 19), ( 27).

    , ( 19 27) - (). , , () (, 1987, . 237-239). VII-VIII . , , . - , (Osmanlitarihleri, 1949, s. 385). , (, , ) VII-VIII . (, , , 1984, . 168). 19 27 -

    .

    , () , ( 6, 19). , . (?), , , () ( 6: . 8, 17,19). , , . 19 - (), , ..

    - .

    () ( 5, 18) (. 8, 14). ,

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    - Y, 28, 38, 39 42 () ( 5 : . 8, 12; .: , , 2005, . 133), - ( 18).

    . , . () 6(, 1975, . 22) (. 8, 20) (25); IX . , (-): 16-18 . ; . . 13, 1; 15, 11; , 2000, .370; . 66, 11). (, ) 18 : - 4 - (, 1987, . 8, 5-8)(, , ; .: , 1987,. 8, 19).

    (, 1990, . XXV, 1-2), - (, 1993, . 89-92)., 9 ( , / ) , 11 ( , / ). 6 19. (, 1952, . 18-19) (, 1966, . VII, 33), . VII . VIII . (, 2006, . 282;. 181, 71).

    , () (, ). , , . , .

    ( 36), . . . ( 35); ,

    ( - ) , , -(, ) . 36 , ( () (). , (, , , : , , 2005, . 1, , 36)., , . (?), .

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    . 9. /.

    .

    III, VI-VII

    . (, 1975, . V).

    Fig. 9. Afrasiab/Samarkand. The

    noble Turkic man. Fragment of the

    wall painting of the Hall III, 7th c.AD (after Albaum, 1975, pl. V).

    , , (. 28, 29),, , (. 8,2),

    ( 28, 37, 39, 40, 41); - , . ( 28, 42), ,

    , (, 1987,. 8, 1-3) (. 8, 21).

    , , ( , ). , , ( 31). , , 33-34. ( )

    ( 32 31), . ,- , . 200 , , , - (Chavannes, 1903, p. 194)., , ( 5, 19).

    , . ( .: Mode, 1993, S. 28-29, Abb. 8-9). ,

    , (42 42); 35 36, . ( 37 38) ( 39, 40 41), .

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    (, ); - 18.

    , ( ) 15, 16, 17. ,. 1978 . ,

    , (.. ). , , /, (?) - ( 15 17 , 16 ). , , (.. .. , , , ). 4 , , . , .

    . 10. IX-XI.: 1 , (Le Coq, 1913,

    Taf. 7a); 2 , VII (Bussagli, 1979, p. 93); 3 , 9 (Bussagli, 1979, p.

    107).

    Fig. 10. The female costume of Uygurs from Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc.: 1 Chotcho (Qoo), Christian

    temple (Le Coq, 1913, Taf. 7a); 2 Shorchuq (Soruq), cave VII (Bussagli, 1979, p. 93); 3 Bzklik,

    temple 9 (Le Coq, 1913, Taf. 30).

    , . 36 , ,..,

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    - ,, , . , , , ( ) . , ( 36; , 1-4).

    1. , ( 6, 9, 27, ( 27: ). ( 19 27). , ( 6). , ( 6) ( 19). ( 6). . , 6 30 . , , , , 40-50 (,1990, . 78).

    . 11. IX-

    XI . ( ,

    2000, . 68 57/4):

    1, 4 ; 2-3 (

    ); 5 () ( . ).

    Fig. 11. The female costume of Uygurs from

    Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc. (after/Yatsenko,

    2000, pl. 68 and 57/4).

    III, (, 1975, . V) (. 9). , , , ( 6)

    , (. 6 1). : .

    (,1975, . V) (. 8, 23). , - ( VII ., 641-642 ., ), . , , VII-VIII ., , 6 7 .. (, 1989, .

    2, 1; 3, 1-2). , IX . (Grnwedel, 1912,. 56, 664); . : , 1987,. 8 , 13-14.

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    2., 5 , . , ( 28-31, 35, 37-40, 42). / ( 5, 18, 26?). ( ) ( , ). ,

    ). 11 2 , (, 1990, . 74). -, ().

    . 12. IX-XII

    . ( , 2000, . 69):

    1 (); 2 , 6;

    3 , 19; 4 ,

    9; 5 , 7; 6 ().

    (1

    , . 3,

    ., 1995; 2-4 . ; 5-6

    Along the Ancient Silk Routes, New York,

    1982).

    Fig. 12. The male costume of Uygurs from

    Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc. (after

    /Yatsenko, 2000, pl. 69).

    3. 15-17 , , . , , . - , . ,

    (, 1990, . 73).

    .

    -, , , , ( III, , , ). ,

    (, , , ). , (Chavannes, 1903, p. 194).-, ( 19) - - , ,

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    (. 8, 13). , , , ( : Northern Qi Tomb, 1990, p. 8, fig. 8); 36. -, ( 39 III: .:

    , 1976, . V) 3 ( ) (?)(. 8, 4) (26). 18. ( ) . -, , ( 42) (. 8, 18). -, (, , 2, 3, 4 , 9,11 - ). III (.. , , , /), (?). , (

    ) ().

    . 13. IX-XI. : 1 (Le Coq,

    1913, Taf. 7a); 2 (Bussagli, 1979, p. 105); 3 (Le

    Coq, 1913, Taf. 3b).

    Fig. 13. The male costume of Uygurs from Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc. from Khotcho/Qoo. , , ( ) .

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    . , , (27) - ( , 3), 36 ( ) .

    ( 5, 6), . III , .

    4. () IX - XI. 4- (, 2000, . 367-382; . 64-69) (28). (. ) (744-840 .), , () 874 ., , . , .

    ( XV ) .

    . 14.

    IX-XI. (6) (, 2000, .

    67 63/2):

    1 , 9; 2 , 2;

    3 ; 4 , 11; 5

    ; 6 , .

    (1 . ; 2 . ; 2-3, 5 . ; 4 ..

    ).

    Fig. 14. The male costume of Uygurs from

    Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc. and Eearly Turk

    man image (6) (after/Yatsenko, 2000,

    pl. 67 and 63/2).

    ?

    , (.10-11; 12, 4-6; 16, 1-9; 17, 1-7) ( ). -, , 5-6

    , , (, 1974,. 45). -- , ,

    , (, . 89, 168). , , . , /;

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    (. 10, 3; 11, 3;12, 4; 16, 7-9). - (. IX .) (. 10, 1; 11, 5). - (Nowgorodowa, 1980, S. 246), (29). ,

    (, 1990, . VIII, 2; XII): ( 6 ..) (Le Coq, 1925, Taf.42, 43) (. 17, 2) , ( 1 .., ) ( , : Le Coq, 1913, Taf. 63) (. 17, 5).

    . 15.

    IX-XI . ( , 2000, . 66):

    1, 4-5, 7-8, 10-14 ; 9, 15

    ; 2, 3, 6

    ; 10 ( ).

    : 1-4, 6 ;

    7 , 11; 8 ; 9

    -; 11, 13 , 9;

    14 , ; 15 , Z.

    (1-6, 9-14 . ; 7 ..

    ; 8 . ; 15

    Along the Ancient Silk Routes, New York,

    1982).

    Fig. 15. Foot gear and belts of Uygurs from

    Xinjiang of the 9th -11th cc. and Eearly Turk

    man image (6) (after/Yatsenko, 2000,

    pl. 66).

    -, () ( , , ) (30); ,

    ( ). XII ., ,

    (, 1974, . 92) (., , 409 : Dunchuang Institute.., 1983, pl. 109), (31).-, (. 16-17) , . ,

    () (, 200, . 369-372). ( -) , , , (

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    ). , , (, , - ); ( , , , ); ;

    4-6 ( ) (. 13, 1; 14, 2; 15,11; 17, 10).. 16.

    IX-XIV . (,

    2000, . 64):

    1, 3-16, 18-19 ; 2, 15, 19-

    21 ; 17

    .

    : 1 ,

    37; 3 , 9; 4

    , Z; 5 ; 6 ,

    33; 7 , 7; 8 , 12; 9 , 40; 10-11

    , 9; 12 , 2; 13

    ; 14 , 3; 16

    , ; 17 , ; 18

    , 4; 20 ; 21 .

    (2-4, 7, 9-12, 14-15, 18, 20-21 .

    ; 1, 6, 17, 19 . ; 5,

    8 . ; 13 .. ; 16

    . ).

    Fig. 16. Haircut, coiffure and headdresses of

    Uygurs from Xinjiang of the 9th-14th cc. and

    Eearly Turk man image (6) (after

    /Yatsenko, 2000, pl. 64).

    . () ; , . . , , : , , ; 4-6 ) (. 15, 9, 12; 17, 18).

    ( , ). . 4-6 ( )(. 15, 10, 13; 17, 19). , ; ; , , ; - (. 12, 2; 16, 10).

    -, ,

    ( 2 12; , ) , ; ( ) .

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    . 17.

    IX-XII . ( , 2000,

    . 65):

    1-3, 8, 12-16, 18-24 ; 4-7,

    9, 11, 17 ; 5

    .

    : 1 , 7; 2 ,

    ; 3-6, 9, 11, 17, 20 ; 8

    , ; 10, 12 , 9;

    13 , 3; 15 ,

    11; 16 , ; 17, 21

    (); 18, 19 ,

    ; 22-23 , 7.

    (1-5, 7-12, 14, 18 . ; 13, 15, 19,

    20 . ; 17, 21 ..

    ; 6 .. ; 16

    . ; 22-23 Along the AncientSilk Routes, New York, 1982).

    Fig. 17. Headdresses of Uygurs from Xinjiang

    of the 9th-12th cc. (after /Yatsenko,

    2000, pl. 65).

    -, IX-XI .

    . , , (. 13, 3), , (. 12, 1-2, 5) , , ( ) , (. 16, 1, 5-6), , .

    , , . .

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    .. //. . 3. ., 1993... . , 1975... //. .

    XIII. ., 1983. .. . . . (). .: , 1986 (. , 19918)... //.

    . 21. , 1987..., .. : ,

    //: , , (. . .. , ..). ., 2005.. VII ... //

    . - ., 1990.

    .. . , 1999... . . . ., 1973..., .. //

    . . IV. ., 1979... , . .

    I. ., 1950..., .. . , 1986... . ., 1991... . , 1990... . , 1999. .. ? //

    . . II (.. .. ). ., 2003... //

    (. . 3). , 2007... //

    . . 24. ., 1952... . . ., 1992. .. //

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