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By Samantha Critchell AP Fashion Writer

NEW YORK — Many bridespositively know what theirwedding gown will look likelong before they meet theirgroom, and they’re not goingto let a little thing — OK, actu-ally a huge thing — known asthe economy dash their dreamdress.

They are seeking out gownswith smaller price-tags,according to industry experts,but their expectations haven’tshrunk accordingly.

What’s a gown designer todo?

Give these women whatthey want and bundle it up in abig white bow. There’s reallyno arguing with a bride whohas made up her mind.

At the most recent round ofwedding fashion previews,observers said there were a lotof sellable gowns catering to avariety of tastes and lifestyles,none of which, however, wereobviously pared-down.

There might have been a lit-tle less beading and fewerexotic trims, such as feathers,to keep costs down, but therewasn’t an industry-wide move-ment toward gowns on thecheap, the insiders said.

“When I try to think of oneoverriding theme, it’s thatbrides still want the options forthe wedding they want tohave,” said Darcy Miller, edi-torial director of Martha Stew-art Weddings. And of course,she added, each bride wants adifferent kind of wedding; it’s atraditional, formal blowout forone, a more casual beach bashfor another.

“Because of the economicclimate, a lot of brides are will-ing to get a DJ instead of aband, do it on Sunday insteadof a Saturday night, but theystill have the wedding and stillhave the dream of what theywanted their dress to be,”Miller said.

Designer Monique Lhuilliersaid she feels almost protectivewhen crafting wedding gowns,which is different than thetrendsetter role she might playwhen working on red-carpetgowns.

“It’s a wedding, a celebra-tion, a new life, a new love, anew chapter. I’m honored to bea part of it and rework thedress to make sure it’s perfectin my own eye,” said Lhuillier.

“I thought about the ulti-

mate bride and how much wecould give her,” said anotherdesigner, Reem Acra. “Theperfect look is that she wantsto stay young, stay fresh andbe able to travel with thedress.”

Acra captured modern andairy silhouettes influenced by atrip to Japan, where she wasimpressed with gardens, Zenand an aesthetic of purity.

There’s no “flash” in thegowns, Acra explained, sinceshe was aiming for a sweetersort of beauty, when a bridegets caught up in the romanceof the occasion.

“You want the bride to feellike she’s getting married —that it’s pure and real,” shesaid. “After all, you’re not get-ting married to throw a partyor even to wear the dress. Youare getting married to getmarried — for you, for him,for the both of you — and thesedresses are supposed to reflectthat.”

Trends are barely a blip onNicole Miller’s radar as shedoes her bridal collection, nev-ermind that she also designsfashion-forward cocktailfrocks.

A flattering gown that canbe worn by different ages andbody types is another story,though. “If I have a reallygood-selling evening gown, I’lldo a version for bridal becauseI already know the silhouette isselling. I might add beading orlonger train,” she said.

What brides want most is tolook fantastic, and what theythink about is how gowns flat-ter their figure and appear inphotographs, Miller said.That’s why corsets sell so wellin bridal, she added with alaugh.

Michael Shettel, designer ofthe Alfred Angelo collection,said sleek and slim is one pop-

ular direction for brides; theother, at the opposite end ofthe spectrum, is the modernballgown.

“We approached this seasonwith the inspiration of jazz on asummer’s day,” he said. “Whatwas striking was how modernthe casual sort of dresseslooked with the juxtaposition ofthe jazz-world glamour.”

By Edith Deckerof the Daily Courier

For many brides andbridesmaids, the per-fect dress, shoes andmakeup aren’t enough

without the perfect nails. Mak-ing an appointment for thebridal party a couple monthsin advance is on most brides’lists.

Bridal parties often make itpart of an extremely busyweek to take a morning out atthe nail salon for manicuresand often pedicures as well —especially if the footwear issandals. It’s often a fun morn-ing for the whole group toenjoy.

“I’ve done a few where I’vetaken one of the colors in thewedding and along with thewhite of the French nails toput them together for a bridalparty,” says Amber Mathews,co-owner of A Nail Detail inGrants Pass.

She says nail salons havehundreds of colors so “you’repretty much guaranteed to finda match.”

And a color isn’t all. For thebig day, some special nail artmight be in order, from acrylicnails with actual dried flowersembedded to a rhinestone onthe bride’s ring finger to an

airbrush of a monogram of thebride and groom’s initials.

“I’ve seen where they’veactually encased blue jean ordenim inside the fingernails.Flowers or seashells. It’s likeendless possibilities,” saysSarah Wright, a nail technicianat A Footman and Her Nailsdowntown who has 13 yearsnail experience.

Both Wright and Mathewsagree that the most popularstyle now for brides is French

nails.“Usually people do a little

more classy style for theirwedding,” Wright says. “Itreally just depends on thebride, too.”

Among her most unusualrequests was Hawaiian flowersfor a bride headed to the islandfor her wedding and a darkpurple polish with blue flowersfor a bride with a unique senseof style.

Mathews says many brides

choose a clear polish with glit-ter, while the bridesmaidsmight all have the same colorto match their flowers orgowns. It’s common for peopleto bring in a gown or sample ofcloth or ribbon to match.

For less formal weddingswhere the bride might be insandals or barefoot, a pedicureis a must, too.

The cost for a pedicure andmanicure can run up to $40 aperson, twice as much (ormore) for acrylic nail sets.Groups often receive a dis-count, however, Wright notes.

Typically, members of thewedding party are expected topay for their own nail service,although sometimes the brideor her family will pay.

Mathews says many peoplewho’ve never had their nailsdone find themselves in a salonfor the first time for a wed-ding.

As for grooms, men are wel-come in nail salons, althoughfew come in in this area, bothMathews and Wright say. It’smore common for men to get amanicure in larger cities, theyagree, but it’s not unheard of.Mathews has a couple maleclients who are professionalcard dealers and says groomsmight benefit from a manicurebefore the big day.

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EDITH DECKER/Daily Courier

A Nail Detail co-owner Amber Mathews works finishesup a client’s nails. She says it’s common for a bridalparty to book an entire morning for manicures andpedicures before a wedding.

EDITH DECKER/Daily Courier

An array of colors in nail polish, not to mention acrylicnails, mean a bridal party’s nails can match one of thetheme colors for a wedding.

Nailed it: Bridal parties have new tradition

Brides unfettered from rules whenchoosing the gown of their dreams

Associated Press

Models walk in the Kirstie Kelly for Disney's Fairy TaleWeddings fashion show. Above left: a model is lacedinto her dress at a New York fashion show.

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