particle characterization of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals · particle characterization for...

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Particle Characterization for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

Ian Treviranusian.treviranus@horiba.comwww.horiba.com/us/particle

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

What we’ll talk about

Featured technologies

Importance to industry

Application examples

Q&A

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Your interests

Available technologiesHow to accurately, reproducibly measure

nanoparticlesBest practicesZeta potentialPastesData interpretation

(webinars TR008, TR010, TR015)

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

Featured technologies

LA-950 / LA-300Laser Diffraction

SZ-100Dynamic Light Scattering & Zeta Potential

CAMSIZER & CAMSIZER XTDynamic Image Analysis

PSA300Static Image Analysis

SA-9600Flowing Gas BET Surface Area

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

LA-950: Laser Diffraction

Particle size performance leaderNinth generationUltra durableLowest total cost of ownershipSuspension, emulsion, powder,

paste, gel10 nanometer – 3 mm

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SZ-100: Nanoparticle Analyzer Size: .3 nm - 8 µm

90° and 173° Zeta potential: -200 - +200 mV

Patented carbon coated electrodes

Molecular weight: 1x103 - 2x107 g/mol

•Nanoparticles•Colloids•Proteins•Emulsions•Disperison stability

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

-60

-50

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-10

0

10

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2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0

pH

Zeta potential/mV

Measures particle surface chargeHigh zeta potential = stableLow zeta = unstable, aggregate

Zeta Potential: Dispersion Stability, IEP

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What we’ll talk about

Featured technologies

Importance to industry

Application examples

Q&A

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

Why Do We Care?

Particle size affects…Texture/skin feelColor density/tintSmoothnessPowder flow/compaction

Zeta potential tells us…Product stability

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Particles in CosmeticsAny product containing a powderPigments, talc, micaEmulsions (creams, lotions)Liposomes; simple, complexTypes of cosmetics containing particles

(emulsion droplets)

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Original Foundation: Pan-Cake Foundation and powder

in one Base was talc (particle),

not oil or wax Applied with wet sponge Patent in 1937 By 1940 1 in 3 N

American women owned & wore Pan-Cake

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Create our Own ProductBaseTalc, rice powder

PigmentIron oxide

FillerClay

GlitterMica

SPFTiO2

They’re all particles!

Can measure size of all using one system:LA-950

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Measure Powders as Powders

Webinar TE016: Optimizing Dry Powder Measurements

Simplify dispersing

Quick, easy, clean

Measure in natural state for more actionable results

Lower costs

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Reduce Solvent Use

Fully automated pumping system40 mL total volumeBuilt-in ultrasonic probeApplication Note 176: Minimizing Sample Quantity

MiniFlow Fraction Cell

5, 10, 15 mL volumeNeeds only micrograms

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LA-950 Method Expert Unique guided method developmentOptimize parameters Choose the best refractive index Create “one button” SOPs

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What we’ll talk about

Featured technologies

Importance to industry

Application examples

Q&A

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

Base: Rice Powder

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

Iron Oxide – 170 Shade

LA-950 wet accessoriesDisperse powder into a liquidCan measure down to 30 nm

Use ultrasound?

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Gold Glitter Powder

Wet Dry

Measure wet + dry, choose preferredVerify correct P for dry powder feeder

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Mica

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Quality Control / Troubleshoot

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Kaolin Clay

Note: small % below 100 nm, making thisa “nanoparticle.Safety concerns?

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Sunscreen with TiO2

Powder dispersed inwater using surfactantand ultrasound.Note: 14.5% < 100nmSafety concerns?

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Measure without dilution Concern that dilution

in anything but perfect background will change PSD

Possible solution with Paste Cell accessory

Small amount of paste/gel/cream between two glass plates

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ZnO used in sunscreen

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

Nanoparticle Safety: Cosmetics “Preliminary scientific

research has shown that many types of nanoparticles can be toxic to human tissue and cell cultures…”

Suggests banning all cosmetics with particles <100nm

Many sunscreens contain ZnO or TiO2 particles <100 nm

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

Nanoparticle Safety NGO Friends of the Earth issue report

requesting ban on all skin care products w/particles <100nm

Claim: some nanoparticles are dangerous, so ban all

Industry claims some nanoparticles are safe, so don’t worry

FDA says we only believe data in peer reviewed journals, but form task force to investigate

In 2012 Cosmetics manufacturers must notify European Commission of any “nanoscalematerials” in products

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Stability

Want stable dispersionEither suspensions

or emulsionsSuspensions

sediment & flocculateEmulsions phase

separate, creaming or coalescence

good

bad

good

bad

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Skin CreamEmulsion w/SPF 15

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Liposome DeliveryActiveingredient

Liposome approachesskin barrier layer

Liposome fuses withskin barrier layer

Liposome dissolves &releases actives(retinol?)

Penetrates into skin

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Liposome Size & StabilityNanoparticle Size Zeta Potential

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Multiple Technologies

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Retinol Formulation - Delivery

“Retinol contained in the core spaceof the vesicle which has a meandiameter of 10~50nm”…

Useful for improving skin health

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

SummaryMany cosmetic products either powder

(particle) based, or contain powdersWide range of applications measured by

laser diffractionDLS for nanoparticle size and

zeta potentialQuantify sub-100 nm with either

technology

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See you at NYSCC

Annual suppliers event May 13-14Edison, NJ HORIBA has an office there!Booth 520Say hi! to

Mitch & Dan

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Danke

Gracias

Большое спасибо

GrazieاُشْكرΣας ευχαριστούμε

감사합니다Obrigado

Tacka dig

谢谢ขอบคุณครบั

ありがとうございました

धन्यवादநன்ற

© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.

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Ian TreviranusProduct Line Manager

ian.treviranus@horiba.com