oat lipid e - the soap kitchen€¦ · · 2018-01-22manufacturing oat® lipid e selected oats are...
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Oat* Lipid e has excellent absorbency and protective
properties, enhancing skin feel, moisturising and soothing
the skin.
What is Oat® Lipid e?
Oat® Lipid e is a natural lipid complex extracted from the oat kernel. It contains
approximately 10% polar lipids, is rich in skin-identical fatty acids including membrane
phospholipids and ceramides protected by powerful antioxidants.
Oat® Lipid e has a high linoleic acid content recognised as establishing and maintaining the epidermal water barrier
thereby improving skin barrier function. The complex contains antioxidants, in the form of alkyl phenolates,
tocotrienols and tocopherols, which have been shown to protect skin lipids from UV peroxidation and DNA
damage.
Ceramides, Phosphatidylcholine [PC] and Phosphatidylethanolamine [PE] are membrane-identical phospholipids
contained within Oat® Lipid e. The molecules have also been shown to support the barrier function helping to keep
skin in a healthy condition, slow down skin aging and maintain the stratum corneum.
Oat® Lipid e is easy to formulate with and provides superior benefits to most other natural oils used in skin care.
The structure of oat oil within the kernel
Oats are an unusual cereal crop due to a high lipid kernel
content (approximately 7%) allowing oil extraction from the
whole kernel with extractants such as carbon dioxide, hexane,
or ethanol. The oil is present in two distinct areas, the bran layer
and as whole oil bodies within the endosperm.
INCI Name % CAS EINECS Manufacturer
Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil 100% 840 12-26-0 281-672-4 Oat Services Ltd.
Oat® Lipid e A Refined Oat Oil
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
PAGE 1
Oat oil extraction techniques
Extraction using the non-polar carbon dioxide at either sub
or supercritical pressures yields a clear yellow high
triglyceride oil with very small amounts of the polar lipids
(image 4). Hexane extracts polar and neutral lipids, but the
resultant oil contains large quantities of bound-starch,
which on a commercial scale produces a very dark oil,
unacceptable for most uses. Ethanol also produces a dark
red oil which on further processing can be refined to a
satisfactory clear golden colour for cosmetic use.
Image 2: Oat whole oil bodies after extraction Image 1: Starchy endosperm showing whole oil bodies (light grey)
The oat oil bodies are neutral lipid storage vesicles stabilised by phospholipid oleosin proteins. The oil bodies are
approximately 1μm in diameter. They are situated within the starchy endosperm and encapsulate the neutral
lipids, with the phospholipid half-unit membrane, having an external protein coat of isoforms of oleosin and
caleosin. It is the structure and constitution of the whole oil bodies which give Oat® Lipid e the unique profile and
properties (images 1, 2 & 3).
Oleosins
Phospholipid layer
Oil
Image 3: Oil body structure
Supercritical
CO2
Oat® Lipid e
Crude
Ethanol
Hexane
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
Image 4: Oat oil samples derived from alternative extractants.
PAGE 2
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 2
Manufacturing Oat® Lipid e
Selected oats are grown in Sweden by contracted producers to ensure the quality, traceability, sustainability and
safety of the raw material is maintained. The oats are cleaned, dehulled and stabilised prior to ethanol extraction.
Oat® Lipid e is extracted with a cellulose-derived ethanol to produce a high polar crude oil waxy matrix after which
the majority of the waxes, starch and pigments are removed. The refined oil is degassed, fine filtered and
drummed under nitrogen.
The resultant oil is an effective cosmetic ingredient with good colour and stability retaining the valuable active
components that many refined oils lack, and suitable for ECOCERT natural approval.
Why is Oat® Lipid e different?
Oat® Lipid e maintains excellent colour and clarity, whilst containing an active polar profile:
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
PAGE 3
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 3
Oat® Lipid e Profile
Oat® Lipid e’s unique skin care properties are due to the natural ratio of lipids present in the oat:
Lipid classes in Oat® Lipid e
Average Minimum Maximum
Neutral Lipids
Sterol esters 1.20 0.80 1.80
Triacylglycerols 59.45 55.60 62.10
Free fatty acids 13.00 10.00 16.80
Cholesterol/sterols 11.77 10.60 14.50
Other 4.58 4.10 4.90
Total Neutral Lipids 90.00 87.40 91.50
Polar Lipids
Monogalactosyldiacylglycerols 1.47 0.90 2.50
Ceramides 1.15 0.70 1.40
Digalactosyldiacylglycerols 1.57 1.20 2.00
Phosphatidylethanolamine 0.67 0.40 1.00
Phosphatidic acid/Phosphatidylglycerol/Cardiolipin 0.05 0.00 0.10
Phosphatidylinositol 0.45 0.10 0.90
Phosphatidylserine 0.07 0.00 0.40
Phosphatidylcholine 0.97 0.70 1.20
Pigmented material 3.62 2.70 4.90
Total Polar Lipids 10.00 8.50 12.60
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
PAGE 4
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 4
Average Minimum Maximum
Saturated Fatty Acids
Myristic 14:0 0.16 0.15 0.18
Pentadecylic 15:0 0.01 0.00 0.06
Palmitic 16:0 14.80 14.49 15.08
Stearic 18:0 1.65 1.52 1.74
Arachidic 20:0 0.13 0.12 0.15
Behenic 22:0 0.06 0.00 0.12
Lignoceric 24:0 0.03 0.00 0.06
Total saturated 16.83 16.51 17.24
Monounsaturated Fatty Acids
Palmitoleate 16:1n-9 0.02 0.00 0.07
Palmitoleic 16:1n-7 0.19 0.17 0.21
Oleic 18:1n-9 41.75 39.74 42.87
Vaccenic 18:1n-7 0.96 0.79 1.08
Cetoleic 22:1n-11 0.03 0.00 0.10
Total monounsaturated 43.85 41.78 45.12
Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids
Omega-6 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids
Linoleic 18:2n-6 37.99 36.66 39.78
Eicosadienoic 20:2n-6 0.01 0.00 0.07
Homo-y-Linolenic 20:3n-6 0.01 0.00 0.07
Total Omega-6 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids 38.02 36.66 39.78
Omega-3 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids
Alpha-Linolenic 18:3n-3 1.31 1.21 1.46
Total Omega-3 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids 1.31 1.21 1.46
Total Polyunsaturated 39.32 37.87 41.24
Oat® Lipid e Fatty Acid Profile
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
PAGE 5
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 5
Comparison with other oils
Oat® Lipid e has significant polar lipids compared to most oils together with balanced saturated,
monounsaturated and polyunsaturated profile.
Antioxidant content
Oat lipids are protected by potent natural antioxidants, including the tocotrienols, tocopherols, together with the
alkyl phenolates, which are known to be as effective an antioxidant as Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT).
Oat® Lipid e
Almond (Sweet)
Argan Canola Daikon Radish Seed
Jojoba Golden
Macadamia Nut
Meadow Foam
Rosehip Safflower Wheat Germ
Hemp
Lipid Profile
Neutral Lipids 90.00 98.6 96.5 97.2 96.4 97.7 98.1 98.8 96.4 97.2 92.4 95.6
Pigmented material
3.62 3.6 2.8 1.2 3.6 3.5 2.8 2.3 1.4 1.9 7.6 4.4
Polar lipids 6.38 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Fatty Acid Profile
Total Saturated 16.84 9.69 18.62 8.79 10.82 1.34 18.24 1.19 6.32 11.38 18.24 10.7
Total Mono-unsaturated
43.85 64.73 52 54.53 68.72 97.96 76.83 80.8 15.1 15.35 14.31 14.71
Total Poly-unsaturated
39.32 25.58 29.38 36.7 20.45 0.71 4.93 18.01 78.58 73.28 67.45 74.59
PAGE 6
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
Tocotrienol Tocopherol
Alpha beta gamma delta total Alpha beta gamma delta total
Oat® Lipid e 379 25 56 17 477 131 18 2 2 153
Wheatgerm 2.5 8.2 0.24 - 11 191 65 tr 0.55 257
Coconut 3 0.17 0.64 0.1 4 0.2 tr 0.12 - 0.32
Corn 0.94 tr 1.1 0.26 2 18 1.1 44 2.2 65
Sesame tr - 0.34 - tr 7.9 0.41 36 1.2 46
Walnut tr - 0.17 tr tr 6.6 - 39 4.6 50
Linseed - - - - - 1.2 tr 52 0.95 54
Sunflower 0.11 - tr 0.27 tr 59 2.4 1.4 0.27 63
Rapeseed - - - - - 24 tr 39 0.98 64
Camelina - - - - - 3.8 0.09 72 1.3 77
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 6
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
PAGE 7
Oat® Lipid e is an excellent choice for the formulator:
Clear oil - easy to formulate
Excellent skin absorbency resulting in a ‘dry’ feeling oil
Wide temperature range for incorporation in
formulations
No dermal irritation
Hypo-allergenic, suitable for sensitive skins
Effective emollient
Excellent for use in baby care, moisturising and anti-
aging formulations, sun-care, tanning products and bath
oils
Typical Inclusion Rate: 1% - 10%
The beneficial effects of Oat® Lipid e components on the skin
Cholesterol
Skin structure has been referred to as similar to bricks and
mortar, where the skin cells are the bricks and the three
primary lipid classes, cholesterol, ceramides and fatty acids
combine to create the mortar (image 5).
If cholesterol is depleted, the skin cells begin to deteriorate and
crumble away with the outer level of the skin, known as the
stratum corneum flaking.
Phospholipids
Phospholipid contain both a hydrophilic ‘head’, and a hydrophobic 'tail' allowing them to bind water to other
substances, acting as an effective moisturiser. This structure also allows them to form bilayers very similar to skin,
and are easily absorbed.
Phospholipids support the physiology of the skin, their chemical features correspond to those of endogenic
substances, and physically, they build up the same structure (bilayers) as the skin.
‘Bricks’ - corneocytes
‘Mortar’- intercellular lipid
Image 5: Structure of the Stratum Corneum
Oat® Lipid e is backed by experts
“Adding Oat® Lipid e to any and all skin care products is an absolute no-brainer.
In addition to its excellent sensory attributes, it is super beneficial to the
skin due to its lipid profile. It is effectively liquid skin in a nice feeling
luxurious oil!”
Chris Smith - Chrysalis Formulations
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 7
Phosphatidylcholine
Phosphatidylcholine [PC] has a choline ‘head’ and a chain
of fatty acids making up the ‘tail’ (image 6). It contributes
to essential transport and control mechanisms of the
metabolism as well as improving and protecting cells and
membranes damaged by free radicals.
PC when mixed with water spontaneously generates cell-
like structures whose membranes are built up in bilayers similar to in natural cell structures (liposomes). Liposome
membranes show a similar structure to the barrier layers of the skin and can easily be integrated into the skin
layers.
Phosphatidylethanolamine
Phosphatidylethanolamine [PE] appears to acts as a catalyst during the assembly of membrane proteins to guide
the folding path for the proteins and to aid in the transition from the cytoplasmic to the membrane environment.
Linoleic Acid
The most abundant polyunsaturated fatty acid in human skin is linoleic acid, which is essential in establishing and
maintaining the epidermal water barrier. Linoleic acid is also the most abundant unsaturated fatty acid in oat oil,
which has been shown to be effective in reducing
transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and restoring the skin
permeability barrier.
Skin lipids are vitally important and present in variable
amounts depending on age, condition and disease. They
are an essential part of the stratum corneum permeability
barrier, where they form an intercellular matrix of
multilamellar sheets in which protein-enriched
corneocytes are embedded. Stratum corneum lipids are
now known to be important in controlling the permeability
barrier. Clinical conditions with impaired barrier function,
such as xerosis, atopic dermatitis, and ichthyotic disorders,
are linked to changes in stratum corneum lipid levels. Lipid
application has been shown to improve permeability barrier
function and improve these disorders.
EXTERNAL
INTERNAL
Trans-epidermal water loss
EXTERNAL - Lipids are deficient, TEWL occurs and epidermis is dry and flaky.
INTERNAL - lack of lipids that form the intercellular cement, permeability barrier breaks down and epidermis lacks cellular cohesion.
A deficiency of lipids in the stratum corneum is responsible for dry skin conditions. Oat® Lipid e ‘restores and replenishes’ the natural lipid balance of the skin.
Choline polar head
Hydrophobic fatty acid tail
Image 6: Structure of Phosphatidylcholine
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
PAGE 8
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 8
Normal ceramide
level
Decreased ceramide
level
Studies have shown that the skin heals itself by a transient burst of lipid synthesis after disruption of the barrier.
Although lipids account for only a small percentage of total stratum corneum weight (approx. 10%) they have a
significant effect on the permeability barrier. The chemical profile of stratum corneum lipids has been described
as approximately equal amounts of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, with very little phospholipid.
Consistent with the permeability measurements, the concentration of linoleic acid is threefold higher in the face
and abdomen than it is in the leg and foot.
The relationship between linoleic acid and the permeability barrier is well known, and that disruption of the
barrier was one of the major abnormalities in essential fatty acid (EFA) deficiency. Scaling and thickening of the
skin, as well as the increased transepidermal water loss can be reversed by topical application of linoleic acid.
Another essential role for linoleic acid is maintaining the stratum corneum “acid mantle,” which is important for
both impermeability and cutaneous antimicrobial defense
Ceramides
Ceramides are natural components of human skin. There are six ceramide subgroups found in the skin. All four
layers of the epidermis contain ceramides and they play an important role by creating a barrier which reduces
infection and helps to retain the skin’s moisture. Ceramides inhibit the action of elastase and collagenase, which
degrade collagen, elastin and other skin proteins.
Bacteria / pollution
Dry Skin (decreased ceramide level) Normal Skin (normal ceramide level)
‘Bricks and mortar’
Water Water
Bacteria / pollution
Allergens
Comparative images showing the impact of a decreased ceramide level in the skin. Oat® Lipid e contains ceramides
which can restore the skins ceramides level to moisturise dry skin conditions.
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
PAGE 9
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 9
Reduction in the amount of ceramides may result in dry skin, dermatitis, or wrinkles. They are found in the cell
membrane, mainly concentrated in the epidermis.
Along with other lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides prevent loss of water through the skin, and they also act as
a barrier against bacteria and environmental pollutants. Ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol make up about
40% of the lipids in the stratum corneum and work together to prevent moisture loss and keep skin moist and
supple .
Ceramide content declines with age, and cleansers can disrupt ceramides and lipids, leading to dry skin.
The benefits of ceramides in the skin go beyond keeping skin moist and supple, as they act as signalling molecules.
Ceramides are added to hair care products and conditioners as they bind to the hair shaft and make it less porous
and can assist in the regeneration of the cuticles of scalp. Natural ceramides are known to penetrate the skin
more effectively than synthetic versions.
Antioxidants
The unsaturated side-chain in tocotrienols allows them to penetrate tissues with saturated fatty layers more
efficiently, making them ideal for anti-aging in skincare. Tocotrienols combat oxidative stress of the skin by
reducing lipid peroxidosis from exposure to UV rays more effectively than tocopherols. Both tocopherols and
tocotrienols have long been known for their antioxidative properties against lipid peroxidation in biological
membranes and alpha-tocopherol has been considered to be the most active form. Current evidence suggests
tocotrienols are more effective antioxidants than tocopherols in in-vivo situations.
The antioxidative properties of oat oil have been
demonstrated to stabilise other oils.
Solar UVA produces free radicals within the skin. These
free radicals can then cause DNA damage and collagen and
elastin degradation resulting in wrinkles and other signs of
skin aging. The antioxidants in Oat® Lipid e will help reduce
the impact of UV induced free radical damage.
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
PAGE 10
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 10
Oat® Lipid e for the marketer
Contains ceramides
Rich in skin identical lipids
No dermal irritation
Hypo-allergenic
Vitamin E to protect skin lipids from UVB peroxidation
Provides surface and deeper moisturisation
Oat® Lipid e is a must-have ingredient in all skin care formulations! What makes it special is the concentration of
skin identical lipids and fatty acids found within it as well as its profile of very powerful antioxidants.
The balanced lipid profile supports excellent moisturising properties, and contribute towards similar functionality
and activity. Each of these essential fatty acid groups act in differing manner, working in combination to maintain
and repair skin. Oat® Lipid e has a unique profile delivering effective skin repair and maintenance, superior to
other natural oils.
For more information on Oat® Cosmetics ingredients visit www.oatcosmetics.com.
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
PAGE 11
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 11
Bibliography
CIR Expert Panel Meeting March 3-4 2011, Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils Group: http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/
files/118_final_oils_web.pdf
CIR (1987) Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Oleaic Acid, Lauric Acid, Palmitic Acid, Mystric Acid and Stearic Acid.
Journal of the American College of Toxicology, Vol6 (3): 321 – 401
http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_draft_steary_suppl3.pdf
Code of Federal Regulations 21CFR347.10: http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?
fr=347.10&SearchTerm=colloidal%20oatmeal)
Code of Federal Regulations 21CFR184.1065: http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?
fr=184.1065&SearchTerm=linoleic%20acid)
EFSA (2009) Scientific Opinion on the substantiation of health claims related to beta-glucans and maintenance of normal
blood cholesterol concentrations and maintenance or achievement of a normal body weight pursuant to Article 13(1) of
Regulation EC No 1924/2006. EFSA Journal 7(9) 1254. 16
EMEA (2008) Assessment Report on Avena Sativa L., Herba and Avena Sativa L., Fructis EMEA/HMPC/202967/2007
FSA (2009) Federal Register 62 FR 15343, March 31, 1997 - Food Labelling: Health Claims; Soluble Fiber From Whole Oats
and Risk of Coronary Heart Disease; Final Rule
RCTS, Inc. Clinical safety evaluation. Human repeated insult patch test with a body and hand formulation
containing 3% Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil. RCTS study no.: 1712 &1714. Unpublished data. 9-8-2004.
Unpublished data submitted by the Personal Care Products Council on June 30, 2010. 10 pages. Cited in CIR Expert Panel
Meeting March 3-4 2011, Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils Group:
http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/118_final_oils_web.pdf
Schwartz, H., Ollilainen, V., Piironen, V., & Lampi, A. M. (2008). Tocopherol, tocotrienol and plant sterol contents of vegeta-
ble oils and industrial fats.Journal of Food Composition and Analysis, 21(2), 152-161.
Yokishi Miyachi and Toshikazu (eds): Atopic dermatitis—Medical Review Co., Ltd 2000
* OAT® is the international registered trade mark of Oat Services Limited under numbers: EU008688749
PAGE 12
Oat® Lipid e
Restore and Replenish
Oat Services Limited, The White House, 226 Bassett Avenue, Southampton, Hampshire SO16 7FU, UK
Tel: +44 (0)23 8076 7228 Fax: +44 (0)23 8076 8851 Email: info@oatcosmetics.com
PAGE 12
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