gilbert & gaillard wine magazine - summer 2011
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Contents
CONTENTS
COLUMNS
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 3
11-12LONDON LIFE
13-15NEWS
62-65WINE GROWER PORTRAITS
• Leclerc Briant: a story of sisters
• Domaine du Deffends: when
dreams become reality
74-75NEW YORK LIFE
81-82FAMILY BUSINESS
• Bill Deutsch,
WJ Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.
98-99 WINE GROWER PORTRAITS
• Jonathan Grieve: South African
creator of nature-friendly wines
100-102ORGANIC NEWS
• Do organic wines age well?
104-105 WINE QUOTATIONS
• Port and Madeira: Mythical
wines that live (almost) forever
106-107QUALITY FACTORS
• What’s the point of pruning?
108-110STARS AND WINE
GILBERT & GAILLARD
THE WORLDWIDE WINE SIGNATURE
SUBSCRIPTIONS2 YEARS 43.90 € - 1 YEAR 23.60 €
SEE ON PAGE 38
GILBERT & GAILLARD
NEXT ISSUE OUT
AUTUMN 2011
108 98
106
4 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
CONTENTS
ContentsREPORTS
16-35COVER STORYTHE BEST 2010 WINES FROM FRANCE, ITALY AND THE USA• Bordeaux Primeur 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard picks
• Premium Italian wines prove their excellence
• The best of what might be: A taste of the top American Wines from 2010
PLEASE GIVE US YOURFEEDBACK
info@gilbertgaillard.fr
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39
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THIS MAGAZINEIS PRINTED ON RECYCLABLE
PAPER
39-44HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS • Bordeaux: The Keys to success
45-51TRAVEL• Provence: A look at the five main rosé wine areas
52-61QUALITY FACTORS• Rosés stay the course
66-72REGION• The drive for quality in Languedoc
75-80TRAVEL• Discovery trip in Indiana
83-88HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS • Italy’s indigenous grape varieties
89-93REGION• Do Ribera del Duero, A Spanish stand-out
94-97WINE AND FOOD• Gilles Goujon : collecting stars
111-114RECOMMENDED WINES
FRANÇOIS GILBERT
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 7
The development of wine on the web has been
surprising, but inevitable. Only ten years ago, most of us
thought that selling wine on the internet would never
work. Today, if you type ‘buy wine online’ into a search
engine, you receive over 858,000 hits! Wine has
effortlessly gone digital. We see evidence of this daily on
our own website, which gets several thousand visits a day
from people in countries around the world. In response
to demand, we have created English, Chinese and
Japanese versions of our site, to transmit the information
in our international wine guides.
Our latest innovation is the development of the
Gilbert & Gaillard iPhone application, available since
May, which allows users to consult our scores and
reviews of the wines we have tasted, as well as a
geolocation feature that indicates nearby wineries or
estates. An Android application will be available in the
autumn.
Print, of course, has not disappeared and certainly has
a long future ahead of it, but the impact of the
digital revolution has already been significant and
is increasing daily.
Note: Our website www.gilbertgaillard.com is now
available in Chinese and Japanese.
François GilbertEditorial director
www.gilbertgaillard.com
Wine goes online
PHILIPPE GAILLARD
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 9
Until recently, the Chinese wine market
consisted of two main segments: well-known and
expensive wines sought by the wealthy, and bottom-
range wines sold at very low prices. Today, a new market
segment is developing for wines between
3 and 7 euros - the challenge in this segment will be
for winemakers to establish their brands.
Few are aware that China recently became the 7th largest
wine producer in the world, particularly due to groups
such as Changyu and Dynasty. This was a deciding factor
when we chose to publish our wine guide in Chinese;
because when a country begins to produce wine,
it also takes on the values and culture associated with
drinking it. This edition of the Chinese guide includes
mainly French and other European wines, as well as
American wines, but we intend to eventually add
Chinese wines tasted at our Gilbert & Gaillard
office in Shanghai. Chinese wine drinkers will want
information on domestic wines as well as
imported wines - and we will be there to provide it.
Philippe GaillardEditorial director
www.gilbertgaillard.com
Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide in Chinese
10 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
SYLVAIN PATARDSYLVAIN PATARD
www.gilbertgaillard.com
Publishing our wine guide in English!
A brilliant idea: making us the first guide to French
wine aimed at English-speaking wine drinkers.
This new concept saw the light of day in 2008.
This is also when we began to increase our staff of
international tasters and were joined by Delphine
Veissière (Italy), Emmanuel de Lanversin and
Jamal Rayyis (United States) and Thomas Magnani
(China). Soon after, we opened Gilbert & Gaillard
offices in these countries in order to build relationships
with local winemakers and importers.
These developments have been fundamental in our
ability to closely monitor these huge markets.
The English version of the third edition of the
Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide will come out
this autumn. It is the sole international wine
guide created by a French publisher, and an ideal
vector for championing our French and European
emphasis on wines based on the expression of terroir
to a global audience.
Sylvain PatardEditor in chief
Taking French wine tothe world
LONDON LIFE
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 11
Spring is always one of the busiest times of the wine trade calendar.Merchants, importers and sommeliers are finalising their new winelists and London is awash with winemakers and salespeople lookingto promote their wares. All of this culminates in mid-May with theLondon International Wine Fair at the Excel Centre - the perfectopportunity to catch up with industry friends and colleagues over dinner!
Mark’s favourite venues
AWARDED BY MICHELIN GUIDE
Kitchen W8 11-13 Abingdon RoadLondon W8 6AH Tel. +44 (0)207 937 0120www.kitchenw8.com
The Ledbury and The Square are two of myfavourite restaurants, so I have beenmeaning to visit Kitchen W8 (all areowned by Phillip Howard) since it openedin 2009. The fact that the latest MichelinGuide had awarded it a star made me evenmore curious.
The décor is clean and contemporary, whilethe menu is surprisingly well priced (moststarters sub-£10 and mains around £20). Itwas a warm evening and I was in the moodfor seafood so I started with a ravioli of tigerprawns and octopus. To wash down theentrees we enjoyed a bottle of Jean-MarcBoillot’s excellent Montagny 1er Cru (£50),although the great value Picpoul de Pinetfrom Chateau de la Mirande (£22) was awell-priced alternative.
All of the main courses sounded delicious,but I went for the sea bream and wasn’tdisappointed. Continuing the Chardonnaytheme but looking for something a bitbigger, we took Leeuwin’s fabulous ArtSeries Chardonnay from Margaret River inAustralia (£85), certainly one of the NewWorld’s finest examples of the varietal.
The service was attentive, the food wasexcellent and the wine list well chosen.While Kitchen W8 has some way to go tobetter Phillip’s two star establishments, it ispriced much more affordably and offersimpressive value for money.
A BRILLIANT CONCEPT
Kensington Wine Rooms 127 - 129 Kensington Church Street London W8 7LP Tel. +44 (0)207 727 8142 www.greatwinesbytheglass.com
One of the newer additions to Notting Hill’ssocial scene is Kensington Wine Rooms - abrilliant concept for wine lovers and onethey have since replicated in Fulham. Theexpertly selected wine list runs to 150 bins,40 of which are available by the glass fromself-service Enomatic machines that line thewalls. It is an innovative set up thatencourages experimentation and is a lot offun for any wine geek.
It’s not just about wine though. There is awell-priced menu of European dishes that
“focuses on quality ingredients, well sour-ced, cooked without excessive fuss”. By wayof an aperitif we got started with one ofmy favourite NV Champagnes, Jacquesson734 (£69) which was perfect for washingdown some pan-fried scallops. For the maincourse I chose a rack of lamb and whatbetter way to accompany it than with abottle of Roc des Anges (£33.60) - fantasticvalue from the Roussillon.
It’s clear that Kensington Wine Rooms hasbeen created by wine lovers, for wine lovers.On the evidence of the atmosphere that Iencountered there, there are plenty of thosewine lovers in West London.
Mark Andrew
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LONDON INTERNATIONAL WINE FAIR
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3days, 3000 producers, 20,000 winesand 13,745 visitors (up by 61 on last
year). The LIWF is one of the world’s mostimportant wine trade events and one thatseems to conjure excitement and dread inequal measure for those of us that attendeach year. In addition to providing a promo-tional platform for the usual mix of impor-ters, agents, regional bodies, national asso-ciations and mega brands, the fair has a com-prehensive programme of seminars and dis-cussion panels that feature the industry’sleading experts and tackle many of the mostimportant trends and contemporary issues.
Two subjects in particular dominated theagenda this year - how to survive the tougheconomic conditions, and the importanceof the Internet and social media. The latterled to the creation of an area called theAccess Zone that played host to a series ofseminars during the three days of the fair.James Murray, Event Director of LIWF said“There’s absolutely no doubt that this hasto be a part of the way forward. It’s integralthat the industry sits up and pays attention”.This commitment to technology’s role in thefuture of wine is admirable and thebuzz surrounding the Access Zone confirmedthat many of the visitors agree. Discussionabout how to prosper in a difficult markettook on a variety of forms (reflecting thediversity of the visitors), including a betterunderstanding of the consumer, dealingwith the weakness of sterling and findingnew ways to approach packaging and labeldesign.
Out on the floor, the mood was encouraginglyoptimistic, with many exhibitors feeling
that the fair provides them with a uniqueopportunity to speak to the British winetrade. Matteo Catania of Sicilian winery Gulfiwas relishing the opportunity to show hisrange of wines, saying “the UK market is veryimportant to us and one that we want todevelop, so the chance to meet so manypotential clients is too good to miss”. JonPepper is Managing Director at BuckinghamSchenk, one of the UK’s largest suppliers tosupermarkets and an exhibitor at the fair formany years. For the last few shows,Buckingham Schenk have enhanced theirpresence by mooring a three-masted ship onthe quay behind Excel, where they conductmeetings and tastings. Pepper said “We seeLIWF as an essential part of our corporatemarketing strategy. It’s great for networkingand an important opportunity to see all of ourcustomers. Having the boat mooredalongside is a good way to differentiate our-selves from our competitors and allows us toentertain all our key customers and partners.”
The fair has also proven to be a great wayfor regional and national bodies to promote
their brand and the quality of their wines.One of the best organised of these is theLanguedoc & Roussillon’s ”Sud de France”,who used the show to announce the resultsof their Prestige Wines competition as wellas shining a light on the quality and valuethat the region has to offer. Sébastien duBoullay said “London Wine Fair is a greatopportunity for Sud de France to bring overproducers that are looking for representation.With more than 500 visitors to our stand, itis clear that there is great interest in theUK for Languedoc-Roussillon wines.”
So after a tiring three days of non-stop tastingand talking, it appears that the LIWF stillhas what it takes to attract a large andenthusiastic audience.
However, it is increasingly obvious that theshow is of different relevance to differentsectors. With the resounding success of theNatural Wine Fair and the SpecialistImporters Trade Tasting (SITT), not tomention anecdotal conversations withmany of my industry colleagues in theindependent retail and restaurant sectors,the fair seems to be loosing some relevancefor those operating at the higher end of thetrade. As the buyer for an independentmerchant that specialises in selling to”high involvement” customers (both thepublic and sommeliers), I don’t go toLIWF ‘looking’ for new wines to list.Rather, it is an opportunity to touch basewith a lot of people in a short period oftime and a chance for me to revisit theportfolios of some of our competitors. Itwould be nice to think that a lot of small,boutique wineries would come to LIWFwaiting to be ‘discovered’, but the reality isthat the fair seems to be heading in the otherdirection and becoming increasinglydominated by the big agents and the bigbrands.
12 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
LONDON LIFE
A VERY STYLISHCHAMPAGNE
Since its creation in 1785, theChampagne house Piper-Heidsieckhas collaborated with top designers.In 1999, Jean-Paul Gaultier dressedup a bottle of Piper-HeidsieckChampagne in a red corset. Today,the designer has updated the ideausing new materials such as fishnetand latex, giving the bottle aParisian touch of seduction. Thebottle sells for 200 euros and comeswith a black varnished wine chaliceand a fishnet Champagne bucket. Itis available at Nikki Beach inCannes and La Maison Blanche inParis. This original idea is totally inkeeping with the image of Piper-Heidsieck, the party Champagne parexcellence.
THE RETURNOF A LEGEND
Banned since thefirst decades of the1900s, absinthe has recently been reintroduced inFrance under thename of Versintheby the Liquoristeriede Provence, a distillery that specialises in reviving the spiritsand liqueurs of Provence’s past inorder to protect their heritage. For overtwo years, Versinthe will be the onlyplant-based absinthe liqueur availablelegally in France. To reach a wider public,a Versinthe smartphone application isplanned, which will offer a large choiceof different cocktails that you can makeat home. Versinthe is available for 25euros a bottle from the Liquoristerie deProvence shop in Venelles, near Aix-en-Provence, or from websites such as: www.absinthefrenchmanspoon.com or www.nice-art.com
OLIVE OIL TASTING AT THEDOMAINE DE LA ROYRIE
On a site founded in the 15th century,the olive groves of the Domaine de laRoyrie on the Côte d’Azur producegrand cru organic olive oil. The estate’solive oils are labelled Appellationd’Origine Protégée AOP Nice Olive Oil,a guarantee of quality. They have fragrant,elegant, bold aromas reminiscent ofhazelnut, ripe olive and fresh almond.The estate won a gold medal at the 2011Concours Général Agricole de Paris. Theinventor of oléologie, or olive tasting, theDomaine de la Royrie offers olive oiltasting courses as well as culinaryworkshops. It is located in Grasse, nearNice, in the Alpes-Maritimes. For moreinformation, visit their website:www.oelologie.fr
14 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
NEWS
Lidewij van Wilgen left a career in advertising and a comfortablelife in Amsterdam to become a winemaker in the South ofFrance. Nine years later the wines of Mas des Dames are seen assome of the best in Languedoc. About her struggle to learn thiswhole new trade and to adapt to a life far from the city she wrotean exiting book: The Domain. A gripping read about determination,passion and love.. and about wine, of course. A must- have forwine lovers, highly recommended for everyone else. Now all weneed is a translation in English...
ALL WE NEED IS… A TRANSLATION!
NEWS
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 15
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
CHAMPAGNE P. Lassalle-HaninBrut 1er cru Cuvée FloraleLight gold. The nose showsabundant freshness andintermixes floral and fruitynotes. Fleshy palate framed by refinedeffervescence. The aromas don a pleasant crisp tone andthe finish retains abundant freshness. A party sparkler.
88/100
SANCERRE A.C. Michel VattanCuvée Argile 2010Light yellow with greenishtints. Profound nose intermixingnotes of citrus fruit and silica.Full-bodied, well-structured with the fat on entryflowing into a livelier finish. Long and harmoniousacross the palate.
88/100
CHAMPAGNE Marquis de PomereuilRosé des Riceys 2006Orangy hue. Open nosewith notes of dried fruits,fruit butter and mild spices.Supple palate framed by fat,full and persistent. The dried fruit aromatics flow intooaked notes on the finish. Drink with poultry.
86/100
16 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
COVER STORY
We have visited the best wineries in France, Italy and the United
States to bring you the latest information that all wine enthusiasts
have been eagerly awaiting - reviews of the 2010 vintage of premium
wines. For Bordeaux wines, we have exclusively tasted the 2010
vintage en primeur, as is
the tradition in France. In
I ta ly and the Uni ted
States, we also tasted
v in tages f rom o ther
years (in particular, 2005,
2006, 2007, 2008 and
2009), which confirmed
t he qua l i t y a nd t h e
consistency of these fine
wines. In the following
pages, you will find our
reviews and assessments
in detail, along with our
tasting scores.
The best 2010 wines fromFrance, Italy and the USA
COVER STORY
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 17
Léoville Barton, Léoville Poyferré,
Brane Cantenac, Fieuzal, Figeac
and La Gaffelière reds; Domaine
de Cheva l i e r and Châ t eau
Carbonnieux whites; Châteaux
Rabaud-Promis and Do isy-
Védrines Sauternes: here are our
top ten picks of 2010 Bordeaux
primeurs from a week spent wine
tasting in April.
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Bordeaux primeurs 2010:Gilbert & Gaillard’s picks
As a result of the summer-long drought last year in
Bordeaux, the 2010 vintage beats all previous records in
terms of phenol concentration and alcohol content.
However, compared to 2009, the month of August was rather cool,
so the wines, particularly the Cabernets, retain a slightly higher
level of acidity.
2010: RECORD-BREAKINGCONCENTRATIONIn our view, the 2010 vintage is most successful when the purity
and freshness of the fruit takes precedence over strength and
concentration. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. This
year, on both the right and left banks of the Gironde River, we
again find high-alcohol wines that are highly concentrated,
extremely dense, robust and hot, reinforced by the dominant
presence of oak. This type of wine makes a strong impression,
without a doubt, but provides little pleasure. We might do well to
wonder if these wines’ powerful build is a guarantee that it will
age well. The dry, sometimes vegetal tannins and the sensation of
heat found in certain wines of this style could cast doubt on this.
18 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
COVER STORY
THE PREMIERS CRUS REMAIN DEPENDABLEMost of the grand classics, premiers crus and certain grands crus
make out rather well this year, effortlessly proving their worth as
ageing wines by uniting density, strength and balance. Lafite,
Latour and Haut-Brion command attention; Margaux, Cheval
Blanc and Montrose lean more towards fruit … The characteristics
of ‘solidity’ that stand out in the 2010 vintage will no doubt
delight certain American reviewers and enthusiasts of big,
full-bodied, oak-laden wines.
FRESHNESS,BALANCE, ELEGANCEFor our part, we remain proponents of more ethereal wines that
possess the structure required in a great wine, while emphasising
fruit and freshness and a more limited use of oak. In addition to
these qualities, in our tastings we looked for good ageing
potential, and we found some 2010 wines that very successfully
combine fresh, fruity aromas with a concentration and strength
that is not excessive. These were the wines we preferred. Of these,
this year, red fruit gets the honours: a sharp, acidic, distinctive red
fruit that deliciously appeals to the nose and palate. But although
the flavours are subtle, these wines also have structure and
intensity. In our view, they best represent the 2010 vintage and
certainly have the potential to improve with age as well as, if not
better than, their muscular cousins. We introduce the marvellous
Léoville Barton as evidence to make our case: structured, subtle,
smooth, fresh… pure bliss.
WHAT WILLTHE FUTURE BRING?Primeur tasting is a sensitive exercise, as most of the wines are in
their infancy. Our results, obtained from blind tastings (apart
from a few winemakers who refuse to participate in group tastings -
one might ask why), are therefore a snapshot of wines at a given
moment in time. And as we have said, in the snapshot we have
taken we have favoured fruit, freshness, elegance and balance (at the
present time) rather than power and strength. Moreover, the past
has shown that wines with the best ageing potential are not always
those we might think.
We will of course be tasting the 2010 wines again when they are
bottled. Nothing guarantees that at that point the list of winners
will be the same. Wine is a question of patience, not of prediction.
Gilbert & Gaillard
OUR TOP 10
100/100 - Château Léoville Barton 2010Saint-Julien A.C. (2e Grand Cru Classé 1855)This was our pick of the year. A deep crimson colour, with a ripe nose
of sharp red fruit and a subtle hint of oak. Full, fresh, dense and silky
mouthfeel. Remarkable structure, with a bold and lingering
finish. A great wine.
99/100 - Château Léoville Poyferré 2010Saint-Julien A.C. (2e Grand Cru Classé 1855)A deep crimson colour with a nose of fresh red fruit and a touch of
oak. A fruity acidity on the palate, balanced by a style that is big,
generous and structured. A lively, fresh wine that is a good expression
of the 2010 vintage.
98/100 - Château Brane Cantenac 2010Margaux A.C. (2e Grand Cru Classé 1855)A deep crimson colour with a penetrating bouquet of ripe red fruit
delicately balanced with oak. Good density, with a soft, smooth
texture; mellow and powerful. Good balance between concentration
and acidity. A lovely wine.
98/100 - Château Fieuzal 2010Pessac-Léognan A.C.( red wine)After an unadvisable venture in the recent past that saw oak take
precedence over this magnificent terroir, this year Château Fieuzal
has come up with a double win, in both red and white. The red is a
deep crimson, with a concentrated nose that shows off the fruit to its
best advantage. The attack is rich and fleshy with a touch of acidity.
The finish is long, the concentration balanced and elegant. Quite
fresh and lively.
98/100 - Château Figeac 2010Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1st Cru Classé B)This cru classé has the particularity of consisting of more than
two-thirds Cabernet. The vintage has a deep red colour with crimson
highlights and an intense nose of ripe red fruits and lightly toasted oak.
A firm structure with concentrated tannins and an appealing vivacity.
This young wine is still closed, but we liked its structure and purity.
These wines represent, in our opinion, the bestof Bordeaux’s 2010 vintage, from all of theregion’s appellations. In April, we sampledaround 200 wines in blind tastings to create thistop-ten list :
continued on page 20
Bordeaux primeurs 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard’s picks
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 19
100/100 ChâteauLéoville Barton 2010Saint-Julien A.C.
98/100 ChâteauBrane Cantenac 2010Margaux A.C.
98/100 ChâteauFigeac 2010Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C.
20 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
COVER STORY
99/100 Domaine de Chevalier 2010Pessac-Léognan A.C.
98/100 ChâteauCarbonnieux 2010Pessac-Léognan A.C.
98/100 ChâteauDoisy VédrinesSauternes-Barsac A.C.
Bordeaux primeurs 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard’s picks
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 21
98/100 - Château La Gaffelière 2010Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1st Cru Classé B)Already singled out for its 2009 vintage, Château La Gaffelière has
once again confirmed its rising quality. It is clear that the work of
the consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt has started to pay off. The
colour is deep with crimson highlights. The nose is pure and
exudes red fruit. Warmth on the palate is balanced by freshness,
supported by an elegant tannic structure. The taste of fruit stays on
the palate.
99/100 - Domaine de Chevalier 2010Pessac-Léognan A.C. (white wine)Always a cut above the rest, this Domaine de Chevalier white
establishes itself again this year as unquestionably the best of the
Bordeaux whites. Its pale yellow colour has green tints, and the
nose is of citrus fruits and lime. An attack that is fleshy, while very
smooth and fresh, with sharp, clean, subtle aromas. Long and
ethereal.
98/100 - Château Carbonnieux 2010Pessac-Léognan A.C. (Grand Cru Classé, white wine)A pale yellow colour with an acidic bouquet of lime and citrus. A crisp,
sweetish palate, balanced with the freshness of grapefruit. A fine wine.
99/100 - Château Rabaud-PromisSauternes A.C. (1er Grand Cru classé)A deep golden colour with an intense nose of exotic and candied
fruit. The attack is fleshy but fresh, with good length. A very good,
well-structured wine with a lingering finish.
98/100 - Château Doisy VédrinesSauternes-Barsac A.C. (2e Grand Cru classé)A light golden colour with a rich, concentrated, sharp nose with
hints of citrus and exotic fruits. Exuberant palate of crunchy fruits
and notes of honey and oak. A remarkable vintage.
Pauillac A.C.
98/100 Château Lafite Rothschild 201097/100 Château Latour 201096/100 Château Mouton Rothschild 2010 95/100 Château Lynch Bages 201094/100 Château Duhart Milon 201092/100 Château Clerc Milon 2010 91/100 Les Forts de Latour 2010
ALL OUR PICKS
IN OUR VIEW, THE 2010 VINTAGE IS MOST SUCCESSFUL WHEN THE PURITY AND FRESHNESS OF THE FRUIT TAKES PRECEDENCE
OVER STRENGTH AND CONCENTRATION
22 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
COVER STORY
90/100 Carruades de Lafite 2010 90/100 Château d’Armailhac 2010 89/100 Château Pédesclaux 201087/100 Château Croizet Bages 2010
Saint-Estèphe A.C.
96/100 Château Montrose 201094/100 Château Cos Labory 201094/100 Château Cos d’Estournel 2010 90/100 Château Lafon Rochet 2010
Margaux A.C.
98/100 Château Margaux 201098/100 Château Brane Cantenac 201096/100 Château d’Issan 201096/100 Château Rauzan Segla 201095/100 Château Kirwan 201094/100 Château Lascombes 201094/100 Château Malescot Saint-Exupery 201093/100 Château Rauzan Gassies 201093/100 Château Cantenac Brown 2010 93/100 Château Prieuré Lichine 201091/100 Château Boyd Cantenac 201091/100 Château Desmirail 201091/100 Château Ferrière 201091/100 Pavillon de Margaux 201090/100 Château Marquis de Terme 201089/100 Château Pouget 2010
Saint-Julien A.C.
100/100 Château Léoville Barton 201099/100 Château Léoville Poyferré 201096/100 Château Branaire Ducru 201095/100 Château Saint-Pierre 201094/100 Château Lagrange 201093/100 Château Langoa Barton 201092/100 Château Talbot 201090/100 Château Beychevelle 2010
Sauternes and Barsac A.C.
99/100 Château Rabaud-Promis 201098/100 Château Doisy Védrines 201097/100 Château d’Yquem 201096/100 Château Doisy-Daëne 201096/100 Château Lamothe Guignard 201096/100 Château Romer 201095/100 Château d’Arche 2010 94/100 Château Caillou 201094/100 Château Lamothe 201094/100 Château de Myrat 201094/100 Château Coutet 201093/100 Château Filhot 201093/100 Clos Haut-Peyraguey 201092-93/100 Château La Tour Blanche 201092/100 Château Broustet 201092/100 Château de Malle 2010
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92/100 Château Guiraud 201091/100 Château Suau 201091/100 Château de Rayne Vigneau 201091/100 Château Rieussec 201090/100 Château Sigalas Rabaud 2010
Pessac-Léognan A.C. (white wines)
99/100 Domaine de Chevalier 201098/100 Château Carbonnieux 2010 96/100 Château Fieuzal 201095/100 Château Smith Ht Lafite 201093/100 Château Haut-Brion blanc 201093/100 Château Olivier 201092/100 Château Latour Martillac 201092/100 Château Pape Clément 201091/100 Château la Mission Haut Brion blanc 201091/100 Château Malartic La Gravière blanc 201091/100 Ch Bouscaut 2010 90/100 Ch Couhins Lurton 201088/100 La Clarté de Haut-Brion 2010
Pessac-Léognan A.C. (red wines)
98/100 Château Fieuzal 201097/100 Château Haut Brion 201095/100 Château La Mission Haut Brion 201094/100 Château Smith Haut Lafite 201094/100 Château Haut Bailly 2021093/100 Château Couhins 201092/100 Domaine de Chevalier 201092/100 Château Pape Clément 2010
Bordeaux primeurs 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard’s picks
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 23
92/100 Château Carbonnieux 201091/100 Le Clarence de Haut Brion 201090/100 Château Olivier 201090/100 Château Malartic Lagravière 201090/100 Château Bouscaut 201089/100 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 201089/100 Château Couhins Lurton 2010 88/100 Château Latour Martillac 2010
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1er Grand Cru Classé A)
96-97 /100 Cheval Blanc 2010
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1ers Grands Crus Classés B)
98/100 Château Figeac 201098/100 Château La Gaffelière 2010 96/100 Clos Fourtet 201095/100 Château Belair Monange 201095/100 Château Pavie Macquin 201095/100 Château Beauséjour 2010 94/100 Château Canon 201093/100 Château Magdelaine 201093/100 Château Pavie 201092/100 Petit Cheval 201091/100 Château Trottevieille 201090/100 Château Beauséjour Bécot 2010
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (Grands Crus Classés)
95/100 Château Grandes Murailles 201095/100 Château Larcis Ducasse 2010 95/100 Château Moulin du Cadet 201095/100 Château Soutard 201094/100 Château Grand Corbin 201094/100 Château Fonroque 201094/100 Château Grand Pontet 201093/100 Château Bellefont Belcier 2010 93/100 Château Monbousquet 201093/100 Château Fonplégade 201092/100 Château Grand Corbin Despagne 201092/100 Couvent des Jacobins 201092/100 Château Franc Mayne 201092/100 Château Laroque 2010 92/100 Château Haut Corbin 2010 92/100 Château La Tour du Pin 2010 91/100 Château Grand Corbin 201091/100 Château Bergat 201091/100 Château Le Prieuré 201091/100 Château La Dominique 201091/100 Château Pavie Decesse 201091/100 Château Ballestard La Tonnelle 201091/100 Château Villemaurine 2010 91/100 Château Larmande 201089/100 Château Chauvin 201089/100 Château Corbin Michotte 201089/100 Château Faurie de Souchard 2010 89/100 Château La Clotte 2010
89/100 Château La Tour Figeac 201088/100 Château La Couspaude 201088/100 Château Yon Figeac 201088/100 Clos Saint Martin 2010 88/100 Château Cadet Piola 201088/100 Château Cap de Mourlin 201088/100 Château La Serre 201087/100 Château Guadet 2010 87/100 Château Dassault 201085/100 Château Laroze 2010 84/100 Château Petit Faurie de Soutard 2010
Pomerol A .C.
93/100 Château La Grave 201093/100 Château Latour (Pomerol) 201092/100 Château Hosanna 201092/100 Château Lafleur Gazin 201092/100 Château Providence Pomerol 201091/100 Château Plince 201090/100 Château La Fleur Petrus 201090/100 Château Trotanoy 201090/100 Château Certan de May 201088/100 Château Bourgneuf 2010
THE MARCHESI DI BAROLO VINEYARD IN THE BAROLO WINEGROWING REGION IN PIEDMONT
24 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
COVER STORY
We take a closer look at the treasures of Piedmont and Tuscany.
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COVER STORY
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 25
In his 1933 book entitled Wines, the
American author Julian Street dedica-
ted 73 pages to France and only 10
pages to Italy. Premium Italian wines that are
today known around the world - for exam-
ple, Barbaresco - are not even mentioned.
Italian wines, according to Julian Street, are characterised “by
quantity rather than quality. Compared to French wines, they
are coarse.” At the time, despite the country’s 400 grape varie-
ties, Italian winemaking was not highly regarded. The
supremacy of French wines would long remain unshakeable.
However, over the years, by producing wines of distinctive style
and superb quality, the reputation of certain Italian winemakers,
such as Angelo Gaja in Piedmont, began to gain ground. During
the 1970s, appellations such as Barbaresco and Barolo began to
appear on the wine lists of fine restaurants around the world,
alongside Bordeaux cru classés and Burgundy grand crus.
The Piedmont wines of DOCG Barbaresco and Barolo are made
from Nebbiolo, a superior local variety in the style of the best
Pinot Noirs from Burgundy. In terms of recent vintages, 2007
was a hot year with an early harvest, but 2008 was cooler,
allowing late ripening and a perfectly balanced grape with excellent
ageing potential due to its level of tannins and its high acidity.
If 2008 is an excellent vintage for Barolo wines, 2010 can be
described as exceptional. Last year, the grapes ripened very
slowly, and short spells of high temperatures caused the
Nebbiolo grapes, which are naturally late-ripening, to protect
themselves against the heat by developing large amounts of
antioxidant tannins and a high level of acidity.
INTENSE AND COMPLEXBarolo, matured for a minimum of three years (including two
years in barrels), can be produced in the 11 village districts that
make up the appellation, located southwest of the town of Alba.
Its wines are typically garnet red with orange highlights. They
are powerful and complex, with a range of aromas initially of
red fruits (especially cherry) that are mouthfilling and perfectly
balanced, while austere. In older vintages, they lean towards
flavours of soil and truffle. Barolo wines that are aged for more
than five years are labelled Riserva.
Barbaresco wines, also made from Nebbiolo and matured for
two years (including one year in barrels), are produced in
Neive, Treiso, Barbaresco and Alba. The regulations specify that
at the time it is put on the market, the wine must be garnet red,
with an intense, distinctive bouquet and a dry, full and
balanced taste. Barbaresco Reserve must be put on the market
from 1 January on the fifth year after harvest. Taking into
account the features of the terroir, including its ideal soil,
everything is in conjunction to make DOCG Barolo and
Barbaresco wines truly poetic.
Yet not all fine Italian wines are made exclusively from
Nebbiolo. Italy has also long produced vins de garde, a tradition
dating back several centuries in Tuscany. This winemaking
region cultivates another superior local variety, Sangiovese.
Since 1300, Tuscan families such as the Antinoris and the
Frescobaldis have been producing wine. In 1716, Cosimo III of
the Medici family, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, issued a decree
creating the first appellations, defining the geographic boundaries
of the winegrowing regions and outlining the production rules
for the wines of Chianti, Pomino, Carmignano and Valdarno di Sopra.
The internationally famous village of Montalcino is the most
well-known appellation in Italian winemaking. This old Etruscan
village is perched on a 567-metre hill and surrounded by a pine
forest. Brunello di Montalcino wine, made exclusively from
Sangiovese grapes, is from here. Not far away, at an altitude of
605 metres, the Estrucan village of Montepulciano rises above
the Chiana Valley. This is another production site for premium
wines made from Sangiovese, locally named Prugnolo Gentile
(“kind plum”), and blended with other local varieties
(Canaiolo and Colorino). Nobile di Montepulciano is the
appellation’s most prestigious wine, in contrast to Rosso di
Montepulciano, which, like Rosso di Montalcino, is a mid-
range wine.
FLESHY AND FRUITY Rosso di Montalcino is a fruity yet fresh wine with good structure
and smooth tannins. Although it is pleasant, it lacks the
Delphine
Veissière
26 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
complexity and elegance of Brunello made from Sangiovese. It
often pairs well with poultry, game and aged cheese. Rosso di
Montepulciano is distinctive for its marked floral nose. It is
good quality and can be enjoyed young.
The 2006 vintage is often considered excellent, as compared to
2007 and 2008, which were of variable quality - not all the
wines of those vintages were able to claim the Nobile or
Brunello appellation (according to whether they are from
Montepulciano or Montalcino). The Tuscan wines of 2010
benefited from a cool summer that meant the harvest took
place in the middle of October, allowing the Sangiovese grapes
time to ripen fully and giving rise to fleshy, fruity and intense
wines with good ageing potential.
Sangiovese is the most widespread and the most cultivated
variety in Italy. In geographic areas with cool nights and hot
days, it can result in premium wines. It ripens late and is usually
harvested at the end of September or beginning of October.
Sangiovese wines are ruby red, concentrated and have a big
personality. They are fruity (especially plum and black cherry)
and have a floral nose of violets. There is a good balance of
COVER STORY
IN 2007, VIRGINIESAVERYS BECAME THE OWNER OF THE 114-HECTARE ESTATEAVIGNONESI
acidity and tannins and a high level of alcohol, alongside good
structure and length.
Unlike the Nebbiolo wines of Piedmont, which are austere and
extremely elegant, Sangiovese wines are big and distinctive.
Fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tanks, and maturation
takes place in barrels from Allier in France or Slavonia in
Croatia. The naturally high tannin content of Sangiovese
requires a period in oak, which, depending on its origin, is
more or less neutral in terms of its impact on the aroma and
flavour of the wine. Oak from Slavonia is often used for high-
volume casks and has a more obvious influence than French
oak, which provides smooth, round flavours. Opting for one or
the other is purely a production decision rather than a financial
one, as their prices are similar.
POWERFUL AND TANNICWhen Pope Gregory XI moved the Holy See from Avignon to
Rome, the Avignonesi family (literally, the “family from
Avignon”) followed, settling in Siena and Montepulciano. The
Avignonesis were landowners and devoted part of their land to
cultivating vineyards. In 2007, Virginie Saverys, a Belgian
AT POGGIO DI SOTTO, SEVENPARCELS OF VINES ARE PRODUCEDSEPARATELY ON A SMALL SCALE
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GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 27
businesswoman from the shipbuilding sector who fell in love
with Tuscany, became the owner of the 114-hectare estate. Since
2008 she has been making dramatic changes, converting to
biodynamic cultivation, as well as implementing different
production methods, for example, using oak to mature the
estate’s Nobile wines. The 2010 vintage promises to be a powerful,
tannic yet fresh Nobile. The 2010 I Poggetti Alberello Sangiovese
(96/100) opens with fruit, and is tannic, concentrated, fresh and
smoothly elegant. The nearby Boscarelli estate offers a 2006
Nobile di Montepulciano that is powerful and elegant, the product
of a hot year that was difficult for grapevines, but here gives rise
to a classically elegant wine combining a nose of tobacco, red
fruit and menthol and a peppery, tannic and fresh palate, that
should ideally be enjoyed after 4-7 years of ageing.
Some 20 kilometres from Montepulciano, Brunello di
Montalcino fully realised its pedigree with the 2005 and 2006
vintages from the Poggio di Sotto estate (leaving aside a potentially
good vintage for 2008, which is still maturing). The 2010 vintage
(98/100) approaches perfection. It benefits from a year in
which the summer was cool, pushing the beginning of the
28 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
COVER STORY
ELEGANT AND NOBLEThe premium Barolo and Barbaresco wines made by Angelo
Gaja, Pio Cesare and Marchesi di Barolo (a famous name in the
history of Piedmont winemaking) are well known. However,
the Bruno Giacosa winery, although often mentioned, remains
an outsider, representative of modern winemaking that lacks a
real signature, but is nonetheless an excellent expression of its
terroir. As Angelo Gaja likes to say, “The perfect wine doesn’t
exist. Wines have to be worked on because nature is imperfect.”
Every wine is subject to two major factors that determine its
quality and ageing potential: the level of tannins and the level
of acidity. Barolo and Barbaresco are not cheap wines. Some 80
per cent of the appellations’ wines are made by small winemakers.
Only 20 per cent of the harvest goes to cooperative wineries.
harvest back to 15 October. It has a nose of fresh fruit, with
hints of violet, and has the flavour of crisp, fresh fruit pulp. The
quality of its tannins and its depth also give it length. At Poggio
di Sotto, seven parcels of vines are produced separately on a
small scale (microvinification). The harvesters pass through the
vines several times during the harvest to select the grapes at
their ideal ripeness. The wines are made exclusively from
Sangiovese, and their olfactory and taste qualities develop
during maturation, which determine if it is designated Rosso di
Montalcino for a minor year (for example, 2007) or Brunello
for a good year. Not far from here, the Il Maronetto estate,
managed by Alessandro Mori, has a 2006 Brunello di
Montalcino (95/100) that is full-bodied, has a big personality,
and is matured exclusively in oak barrels from Slovenia.
ANGELO GAJA: “THE PERFECT WINE DOESN’T EXIST. WINES HAVE TO BEWORKED ON BECAUSE NATURE IS IMPERFECT”
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The Gaja winery has an exceptional 2008 Sori San Lorenzo
Barbaresco (97/100) centred on a nose of fresh red fruits
(strawberry and cherry) and a well-balanced palate characterised
by rounded tannins and acidity, in addition to good concentration,
structure and length. The Pio Cesare winery has a 2007 Barolo
Ornata (96/100) of distinctive excellence. It is smooth and has
great depth thanks to the majority of its maturation being carried
out in old French oak barrels. The Marchesi di Barolo winery
has a 2008 Barolo Sarmassa that also promises to be elegant.
In both Tuscany and Piedmont, the wines of 2010 look set to be
balanced and deep, concentrated on fresh red fruit pulp, with
the menthol and balsamic notes typical of fine Italian wines.
Make sure you don’t miss out when they are available for sale.
By Delphine Veissière
Premium Italian wines prove their excellence
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 29
PIO BOFFA IS THE FOURTH GENERATION WINEMAKER OF
PIO CESARE
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OUR PICKSHere are our scores for the Tuscan andPiedmont wines we tasted in May, as wellas our reviews of the two 2010 wines that weliked best:
98/100 Poggio di SottoBrunello diMontalcino 2010*
continued on page 30
30 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
COVER STORY
94/100 Boscarelli Nobile di Montepulciano 200694/100 Boscarelli Nocio 200792/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Madonna
delle grazie 200693/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 200494/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Madonna
delle grazie 200594/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 199595/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 200688/100 Poggio di Sotto rosso di Montalcino 200690/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2009*91/100 Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino 200795/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 200595/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 200696/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2008*97/100 Poggio di Sotto riserva 200598/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2010*
PIEDMONT
82/100 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili 200883/100 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva 200785/100 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Il Falletto riserva 200789/100 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Faletto 200789/100 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 2010*92/100 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto Le Roche 2010*89/100 Gaja Sperss 199990/100 Gaja Coste Russi 200890/100 Gaja Sperss 200791/100 Gaja Sori Tildin 200893/100 Gaja Barbaresco 200893/100 Gaja Conteisa 199694/100 Gaja Conteisa 200797/100 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo 200883/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbera 200885/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Serragrilli 2009*85/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Serragrilli 2010*86/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Serragrilli 200888/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 2009*89/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 2010*89/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 200790/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 2010*90/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 2009*90/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 200792/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 200894/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 200892/100 Pio Cesare Barbaresco 200793/100 Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco 200794/100 Pio Cesare Barolo 200796/100 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornata 2007* En primeur
98/100 - Poggio di Sotto Brunello diMontalcino 2010*The typical opening of fresh fruit that characterises Poggio di Sottowines is even more apparent in the winery’s future 2010 Brunello.The impact of oak is minimal, leaving fruit and freshness todominate this vintage. The wine is well balanced, elegant,persistent and tannic. The late harvest resulted in minimaldevelopment of the premature aromas of soil and dried plum thatcan naturally occur in Sangiovese grapes, in favour of aromas ofcherry and violets that tend to become masked as the wine matures.Mouthfilling, silky and fresh, this wine is concentrated around redfruit pulp, with hints of sweet spices, liquorice and soft caramel.
96/100 - Avignonesi Sangiovese AlberelloPoggetti 2010*The austere and discreet initial aromas of the 2010 vintage open upto an enticing fruity fragrance with a touch of acidity and blackpepper. The intensity and the strength contrast each other on thepalate, giving way to structure and concentrated fruit with a strongtannic element. The 2010 vintage is set to become a classic; it is likelyto be one of the winery’s best. Its complexity can already be sensed,as well as its balance - the almost tactile intensity and strength ofSangiovese is perfectly controlled by its maturation in oak barrels.
TUSCANY
82/100 Avignonesi Merlot Tradizionale 2010*84/100 Avignonesi Cortona Il Mazzocco 200985/100 Avignonesi Desiderio 200785/100 Avignonesi Merlot Alberello 2010*86/100 Avignonesi Cortona Il Mazzocco 200986/100 Avignonesi 50-50 200587/100 Avignonesi Nobile di Montepulciano 200889/100 Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano 200989/100 Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano 2010*89/100 Avignonesi Riserva grande annate 200689/100 Avignonesi Cabernet Sauvignon Alberello 2010*91/100 Avignonesi Sangiovese Alberello Capezzine 2010*92/100 Avignonesi Sangiovese Tradizionale 2010*96/100 Avignonesi Sangiovese Alberello Poggetti 2010*87/100 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2010*90/100 Biondi Santi Riserva 2010*90/100 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2008*91/100 Biondi Santi Riserva 2008*85/100 Boscarelli IGT 200687/100 Boscarelli De Ferrari 200988/100 Boscarelli “Prugnolo” 200989/100 Boscarelli Nocio 200690/100 Boscarelli Nobile di Montepulciano 200892/100 Boscarelli Riserva 2006
“PRIMEUR”? WHAT? It is nearly impossible to translate the conceptof the primeur tasting for American winemakers.
While the illuminati of the wine world - journalists and négociants -descend upon Bordeaux each spring to assess the vintage just past,winemakers in the United States are content to let their winesdevelop in peace. This attitude includes American producerswhose wines are considered peers of the elites of Bordeaux. Ofcourse, they all know what happens in Bordeaux every year, theysimply don’t understand why anyone would try to judge a wine(especially very expensive wines) before it has even been blended.Indeed, the whole idea just seems crazy.
BUT THE WINES AREN’T READY Sampling the best American wines made in 2010 proved to be achallenge. Most requests were met with polite disbelief. More thanone winemaker said that many of the lots they expected to use intheir final blends were still undergoing malolactic fermentation.One winery located in New York State’s cool climate Finger Lakesregion reported that some tanks of their exemplary Riesling werestill undergoing primary fermentation. In other words, wines fromthe 2010 vintage are nowhere near bottling.
THE GRAND DELUSION Do things move more slowly in the American rather thanBordeaux cellars? Obviously not. Indeed, the same phenomenonof unfinished, unblended wines exists in the great cellars of theMédoc and the Libournais as well. Yet, due to tradition (or moreaccurately, the demands of speculators), chai masters are obligedto show something of the previous vintage. How else could theprophets of the wine world make pronouncements about whereinvestors should be directing their euros/dollars/rubles/yuans?Before anyone knocks on cellar doors, barrels are tasted inadvance. Those that are the most advanced and seductive examplesof the previous vintage are isolated, and only then presented tothe arbitrators of taste. It doesn’t matter that the wine Château Xpresents during primeur might not ever go into a future bottle
THE BEST OF WHAT MIGHT BE: A Taste of the Top American
Wines from 2010
COVER STORY
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 31
BY JAMAL RAYYIS
Jamal Rayyis
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FROM ALL THE WINES SAMPLED,THESE WERE THE BEST OF THE BEST
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these same winemakers emphasized that such tastings are purelyfor information, not critical comment.
Through persistence on my part, and the cooperation of a fewwinemakers, I managed to make an assessment based on threefactors: 1) past experience with the wines, having tasted previousvintages of each several times; 2) an actual tasting of the 2010 barrelsamples of the wines 3) an attempt at regional and varietal diversity.
In alphabetical order, my choices for the 2010 vintage are:• Brick House Cuvée du Tonnelier Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge
Appellation Willamette Valley, Oregon• Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, California• Hermann J. Wiemer Magdalena Vineyard Dry Riesling
Finger Lakes, New York State• Kongsgaard The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, California• Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains,
California
Are these absolutely the best five American wines produced in2010? Honestly, it is too early to tell. But I am fully confident thatany one of the five could be in the top category.
A FEW NOTES ON THE 2010 VINTAGE
THE YEAR IN GENERALThe United States is a huge country, nearly as large as Europeitself, and, though not widely known, wine is made in all fiftystates. There is an abundance of terrains, microclimates and terroirs.Some of California’s great wine regions - Napa, Sonoma, the SantaCruz Mountains - faced challenges in 2010. Temperatures in thespring were cooler than normal, with bud break arriving onlytoward late April - a month later than usual - in some cooler,high-elevation vineyards. Persistent rain and lower temperaturescontinued until July. To facilitate grape ripening, many viticulturalistsstripped leaves from vines. But, when temperatures soared to upto 40 degrees Celsius or higher, grapes were left unprotected fromthe sun, cooking many on the vine. The heat lasted through muchof September, interrupted by rain in the first half of October, justwhen harvests were expected. Those who picked before the rainsreported a good, if not exceptional crop. Those who were caughtin the rains suffered, and a few who waited until the rains stoppedwere well-rewarded, provided they had experience with “difficult”harvests (which are admittedly unusual in California).
Despite the heat spikes in September, many people reported that2010 was among the coolest vintages in the past few decades, anda hard selection of grapes was needed in the winery. As expectedfor a cooler vintage, alcohol levels were lower than usual, andacidity levels were higher. So, too, were tannin, and in many cases,colour-based phenolics. The best red wines from California are
32 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
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CALIFORNIA'S NAPA VALLEY IS CONSIDERED ONE OF THE TOP WINE
REGIONS IN THE UNITED STATES
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labelled ”Château X”. Rather, the point is to create excitement andcash flow into the château’s accounts. It’s a grand delusion, perhapsnot on the same order of the shenanigans of financiers in the lastfew years, but it’s a confidence game nonetheless. (There’s goodreason, therefore, why the greatest customers for these primeurwines are these same financiers.)
American wine makers need cash flow just like the Bordelais, butthere is no expectation to prove their wines’ worth before they areeven assembled. As a result, there are no primeurs, there are nogrand proclamations about 2010 being the vintage of the century,and there isn’t even, it might be accurately said, a 2010 wine thatmost great producers are yet willing to call their own.
All this leaves the humble wine critic in a troubling position: howto assess not only the 2010 vintage in the United States (a task asdifficult as commenting on French wines - from Alsace toProvence to Bordeaux - in general), but also, how to pick the year’sbest wines?
RESOLUTIONMy connections at top wineries in California, Oregon,Washington, and New York State (which comprise 98% ofAmerican wine production) could certainly get me near some barrelsof 2010 wines (though not all, since some wineries explicitly forbidcritics to taste from barrel). And winemakers are generous enoughto dip their pipettes into barrels to offer a taste. But every one of
The Best of What Might Be: A Taste of the Top American Wines from 2010
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 33
darker than usual. Cool summer conditions extended north intothe wine regions of Oregon and Washington. Though it gotwarmer in September, into October, neither the Willamette orColumbia Valleys suffered the same heat stroke as California. ForPacific Northwest winemakers, growing season was one of thelongest on record, up to 115 days or more compared to the usual100 days. Vineyard yields were lower than usual, as were averagealcohol levels. But aromatics and colour were higher. In contrast,producers in New York’s Finger Lakes region, some 4000 kilometersacross the country, reported conditions that were notably different,with warm, clement conditions from spring through the summer.The biggest problem was intense rain that came at the end ofSeptember, which damaged some Riesling and brought on somerot. Grapes harvested before the rains showed higher acid levels.Grapes picked after vineyards dried a couple of weeks after therains showed greater concentration and complexity of flavours,but were somewhat lower in acidity.
THE BEST? Selecting the “best” of anything as subjective as wine is a challenge
in any circumstances, but doing so from among admittedly
unfinished products verges on the hubristic. Still, as a point of
comparison against 2010 Bordeaux primeur tastings, the exercise is
an interesting one. As mentioned above, most top American wine-
makers were reluctant to show their 2010 wines at all. Whether the
aversion to do so came from modesty or a lack of confidence that
wines from the admittedly challenging 2010 vintage would show
very well is an open question. Certainly every winemaker I spoke
with was quite clear in stating that, oenologically speaking, the
wines were simply not ready. Many were still in some phase
of fermentation. More than a couple of winemakers added that,
sure, they could send samples of especially precocious 2010 wines
selected from excellent barrels. But that would have been, in their
words, “cheating,” since eventually those wines would be blended
with others to form a final assemblage. And, ”what would be the
point of that?” they added.
Fortunately, some brave souls were either confident enough in
their 2010 wines to show samples, or, at least were curious about
the parallels with 2010 Bordeaux. From all the wines sampled,
these were the best of the best:
BRICK HOUSE CUVÉE DU TONNELIERPINOT NOIR RIBBON RIDGE APPELLATIONWILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON
Located in the tiny Ribbon Ridge AVA (American Viticultural Area -the US equivalent to France’s Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée,AOC), Brick House has been making stunning Pinot Noir sincethe mid-1990’s. The property is modest in size, 16 hectares (40 acres)
total, and is farmed biodynamically. Seeking a more solaced lifeafter covering war in Lebanon and inspired by vineyards in Francewinemaker/owner, Doug Tunnell planted his first vines in 1990.He went organic from the start. The first plantations were ofungrafted Pinot Noir, Pommard clone. Later, Tunnell plantedGamay, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Dijon clones of Pinot Noir.Formerly a foreign correspondent for the American television networkCBS, Oregon-native Tunnell is a largely self-taught vigneron,though he got good advice from neighbouring winemakersalong the way.
The wines are made naturally - using indigenous yeasts - andminimal intervention when possible, which given the health ofhis vines, means that processes such as chapitalisation and acidi-fication are rare. Brick House releases four cuvées of Pinot Noir:Boulder Rock, Les Dijonnais, Evelyn’s, and Cuvée du Tonnelier.
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finesse from first sniff, with the perfume of just-cut herbs, especiallythyme and marjoram. These are followed by brambly aromas ofwild berries, including raspberries and blackberries, well as earthy,forest floor elements and hints of dried apricot. Tasting the wine,one is struck by the very fresh, tart, red berry flavors, with hints offlowers, anise, and stone. Indeed, the minerality that shows fromthe vineyard’s sedimentary soils underlined by clay and limestoneis striking. Of course, the sample tasted is only one element ofwhat will become the Cuvée du Tonnelier 2010. The 2009 Cuvéedu Tonnelier, just released, shows a family resemblance. Still quiteyoung, the wine will benefit from a few years age. It is seductivenonetheless, with crushed red cherry, fennel seed, marzipan,peppery herb and spice elements throughout. All are containedby mouthwatering acidity and minerality.
DIAMOND CREEK VOLCANIC HILL CABERNETSAUVIGNON NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA
Though not one of Napa’s most historic wineries, Diamond CreekVineyards certainly qualifies as one of its pioneers. Al Brounstein,who made his fortune in pharmaceuticals, founded the winery in1968 on lands he purchased in a previously unplanted, area highabove Napa Valley’s floor. At the time, Napa was largely unknown,and though there were precedents, the notion of mountainsidevineyards was not especially appreciated. Almost completelyunappreciated was the idea of specific terroirs within a property,climatic and geological. Brounstein’s genius was identifying andisolating from the start, separate vineyards within his propertythat had specific soil types: gravel for Gravelly Meadow, iron forRed Rock Terrace, and volcanic ash for Volcanic Hill. Though it isno surprise today that wines from each of these vineyards havedistinct qualities, the notion was not well appreciated inCalifornia at the time, nor, indeed, for at least a couple of moredecades. The decision to bottle each vineyard’s wine separatelywas a statement that terroir really meant something from Napa -flying in the face not only terroir-deniers at the all importantschool of enology at the University of California, Davis, but alsoto nay-saying critics, especially in France, who asserted that terroirsimply couldn’t exist in California.
Of course, the notion of terroir doesn’t only include the specificsof vineyard site, but also the type of grape planted there. Just asBurgundy’s terroir is best expressed by Pinot Noir and Pomerol’sby Merlot, Brounstein thought early on that Cabernet Sauvignonwas especially suited to the Napa Valley. Diamond Creek, as aresult, was the first winery in Napa to dedicate itself to exclusivelyCabernet Sauvignon wine. (One caveat: small quantities of PetitVerdot, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc are planted at Diamond Creekas well, though the total percent used in no way interferes legallywith wines labeled “Cabernet Sauvignon”).Of Diamond Creek’s 28 hectares (70 acres) , nine are planted invines. Volcanic Hill is the largest (3.2 ha/8 acres) of the property’s
Of these, Tonnelier is considered the most accessible in its youth,though, ironically, it is also considered the longest ageing. The 2010 vintage of Cuvée du Tonnelier was marked for severalreasons. First of all, at 12.7 degrees, it records the lowest alcoholyet of any vintage of Tonnelier made. The average alcohol level is13.5%. Next, it marked Brick House’s longest vintage, 152 daysfrom bud break on April 1, to harvest starting October 16. Despitelower sugar levels, the grapes showed an unusually high level of
phenolic complexity and anthocyanin content. Concerned abouthigh malic acid in the grapes at harvest, Tunnel fermented hiswine with a larger percentage of whole clusters (included stems)than usual. Because of the long hang time, stems and seeds wererather ripe and added fresh aromas of fines herbes rather than just“green” flavours.
Befitting of a young wine, the 2010 Cuvée du Tonnelier shows alovely ruby color with hints of purple. One perceives the wine’s
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DIAMOND CREEK VOLCANIC HILLCABERNET SAUVIGNON NAPA VALLEY
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The Best of What Might Be: A Taste of the Top American Wines from 2010
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Especially important was the Riesling planted on steep vineyardsthat were reminiscent of Wiemer’s beloved Mosel. His gambleproved successful, which was fortunate since his boss at BullyHill promptly fired Wiemer for apostasy against the gospel ofhybrid grapes.
The Magdalena Vineyard is a 10 hectare (24 acre) plot which wasplanted in 1999 with mixed soil types, ranging from honoeyeloam with clay to decomposed granite, all on a bedrock of shale.The vineyards’s slope rises steeply from a grade of five degrees toone of seven. It is the warmest microclimate in the Finger Lakesand offers superb conditions for ripening even in cool vintages.
Wiemer’s 2010 Magdalena represents two aspects of the vintage.On the one hand there were grapes picked in late September,before the massive downpour of rain (12 cm in one day). On theother hand were grapes picked after the rains, in the later part of
four vineyards. South facing, it is also the estate’s warmest. Thatsaid, Diamond Creek, which runs through the property, creates anatural canyon that sucks in cool air from the Pacific, moderatingfor all vineyards, heat from Napa Valley, below. Compared to theother vineyards, Volcanic Hill wines are bigger in body and alsolonger living. It should be said, however, that every of DiamondCreek’s wines are designed for long ageing. Indeed, while all arethrilling to taste when young, that is, after they have been releasedthree years after vintage, they are notably shy wines that demandrevisiting after some years.
The barrel sample of 2010 Volcanic Hill is notably black. Perhapsits somber though seductive hue is a mask designed to obscurehow good the difficult 2010 vintage can be with the proper attention.Swirling the wine, the mask falls, though there is a consistency inthe hue of flavours: black fruit, black pepper, smoke. Lighteningthings up are sweet spices and floral notes. A first taste bringsthings back to black. There are explosive flavors of blackberries,cassis, then graphite from the volcanic soils. Lacy notes of violet,smoke, and hints of dill follow, with a shot of espresso on the end.As one might expect at this stage, the wine’s tannins are pronounced,but in fact melt in the mouth, cleaned up by fresh acidity.
HERMANN J. WIEMER MAGDALENA VINEYARDDRY RIESLING FINGER LAKES, NEW YORK STATE
Admittedly, the choice of an American Riesling as one of thecountry’s best wines is not obvious. Nor, too, is the choice of awine from New York State. It surprises many, even New Yorkers, tolearn that New York is one of the United State’s great viticulturestates. For decades, it was second in wine production toCalifornia. Today, it is third, after Washington State (though insome years it regains second place). The majority of New YorkState wine is made in the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York.The microclimates around these lakes moderate what wouldotherwise be bitterly cold winters. Still a cool region, the FingerLakes has become recognized in the last decade or so, as being oneof the best places in the US to grow cool-climate grapes such asRiesling and Gewurztraminer. Fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir isalso grown here, as are some more esoteric varieties such asGrüner Veltliner and Rkatsitelli.
Hermann J. Wiemer, from several generations of winemakers inBernkasteller, Germany, arrived in the area in the 1960s.Originally, he worked for the decidedly eccentric though passionateWalter S. Taylor at Bully Hill winery, which championed so-calledFrench-American hybrid grape varieties. While these grapes andsome of the wines made from them have their charms, they tendto lack the elegance that a German classicist might seek. Throughhis own observations, as well as the inspiration from the pioneer-ing Dr. Konstanin Frank (a fine producer as well), Wiemer startedmoonlighting, planting vitis vinifera grapes in the mid-1970s.
AN OUTSTANDING WINE FROM HERMANN J. WIEMER
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Though only recently available, the Magdalena 2009 is a treat from thestart. Aromas of sweet spice and ripening mango waft from glass uponfirst swirl along with fine, smoky mineral notes. Tasting the wineoffers an initial lushness of sweet fruit, followed by loads of acidity. Alift of green citrus fruit follows, with succulent quetsch plums, greenalmonds and the subtle perfume of violets. A ribbon of minerals keepseverything together. Another great Riesling.
KONGSGAARD THE JUDGE CHARDONNAYNAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA
California has its share of great Chardonnay. Admittedly, thestereotype of them, full-bodied, with ripe pineapple and smokyoak flavors, and relaxed acid, is not to everyone’s taste, especiallyto those who regard white Burgundy as the only model worthconsidering. The cliché of California Chardonnay ought to beretired. Though still widely produced, the number of vigneronsfollowing this paradigm falls with each vintage, driven in part bychanging tastes, not the least of which are from winemakersthemselves. There is a whole other world of CaliforniaChardonnay to consider, one that privileges balance over powerfultropical fruit flavors. Higher, flavour-balancing acidity is a componentthat has become essential. Usage of oak has been scaled back. Onemight still find so-called “oak-bombs” but it’s more likely thatthose flavours come from the use of oak chips rather thanindulgence in fine French (or even, Russian, Slovenian, American)oak barrels. In any case, it is the experience of winemakers that canmake the difference. Whether this experience comes directly fromyears on the job, or the collective wisdom of elders that helped ayoung generation of wine makers avoid the trap of oaky Chard isirrelevant. The importance is balance.
John Kongsgaard might have more experience than any. A fifth-generation native of Napa Valley, he has experienced the full rangeof the region’s growth, both directly, or from family history.Kongsgaard didn’t directly come from a winemaking family,though some of his relatives made wine. But his friends andneighbours certainly did, often from grapes raised in Kongsgaard’sown vineyards. As for his own experience, Kongsgaard gainedfame for his time at Newton Vineyards, one of the first in Napa toapply biodynamic techniques to viticulture and winemaking.
Kongsgaard’s The Judge is made from the Stone Crest Vineyard,planted in the 1970s on a plot of land that John’s grandfatherwanted to use as a stone quarry. The wine’s name honours John’sfather, who was a Napa country judge. Until 1996, the grapes weresold to some of Napa’s finest wineries. As one would expect froma quarry, the soil is incredibly stony and infertile. Vines have tostruggle here to survive and yields are miniscule, under 15 hl/ha(<1 US ton/acre). Understandably, less than 400 cases are made ofthis wine. The Judge, like other Kongsgaard wines, is made naturally,without intervention. Except for picking and crushing nothing isdone to the wine. It ferments naturally with ambient yeasts in newFrench oak barrels where it undergoes its malolactic fermentation
October. Grapes from the latter harvest required vigorous sortingin the winery.
Typical for fresh Riesling, Magdalena 2010 is pale with greenhighlights. The wine is still very much alive on first smell.Greengage plum, citrus and pineapple notes are apparent fromthe start, with flirtatious wafts of anise underpinned by fresh lees.There is a harmony between the nose and mouth, though citrusflavors become more defined with kumquat taking the lead, butalso some peach blossom, honey suckle and spice. Despiteinspiration from the Mosel, this wine is very much in an Alsatianstyle, with a hint of residual sugar. There is an impressive delicacyto the wine, with a long, long finish.
RIDGE VINEYARDS MONTE BELLOSANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS
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and remains for about two years. Racked for bottling, the wineremains unfined and unfiltered.
The 2010 Kongsgaard wine is very much an unfinished wine, yetit points toward greatness. Already richly coloured, the wine has ayellow-green hue. Its nose is indulgent from the start, withoutshowing any tendency toward overripeness. There is a beautifulcreaminess to it, with sweet spice, honey, and light peat notes. Inthe mouth, the lees are apparent and the wine is discrete, yetreveals a foundation of Seville and Valencia orange flavours,lemon, smoky oak and a thick foundation of minerals. One imaginesan exceptional future for this wine.
Already outstanding but destined for the ages is Kongsgaard’s2008 The Judge. A bit lighter in colour than the 2010, the aromasare, as one might expect, far more developed, with notes of orangeconfit, fresh apricot, toasted nuts, and smoky minerals. Theflavours are intense and mouth-filling, with lightly caramelisedorange, grilled pair, orange zest, yellow plum and toasted hazelnutsin the foreground, and superb levels of both minerals and acidity.After two years in barrel, oak is present, of course, but it appearsnot as wood, but rather, as some exotic nut. Remarkable as thiswine is upon first tasting, it got better after five days of tasting.The wine not only retained its freshness but positively came alive,with fresh squeezes of citrus and sprinkles of mineral.
RIDGE VINEYARDS MONTE BELLO SANTACRUZ MOUNTAINS, CALIFORNIA
In the pantheon of great wines, there is no real hierarchy. One hashis or her preferences, dependent on time and place, of course, butin the end, one simply has to acknowledge that great is great,period. Of course, some wines present a special resonance thatone cannot help but recognise as astonishing. Ridge Monte Bellois simply one of those wines.
Founded in the early-1960’s, Ridge Vineyards has been acknowledgedas as one of California’s greatest wine producers since the 1970’s.It was early in its recognition of great vineyard sites, both in theSanta Cruz Mountains where it is based, some 100 kilometerssouth of San Francisco, in Sonoma County, almost an equaldistance to the north. Moreover, while Ridge makes great single-variety wines, it adheres to a European sensibility that blends cancreate the most interesting wines. Bridging the gap between aEuropean tradition of labeling according to terroir and theAmerican preference for varietal labeling, Ridge does both, statingthe name of its vineyards in bold letters, and clearly indicating itswine’s composition in precise percentages on the front label.
Ridge’s home vineyard is Monte Bello, a 50 hectare (125 acre) plotin the cool-climate northern foothills of the Santa CruzMountains. The vineyard was first planted in 1885. It was firstplanted with Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1940’s, with subsequentplantings of other Bordeaux grape varieties and Chardonnay over
the following decades after the property was purchased in toto bythe founding partners of Ridge Vineyards.
Located 24 kilometers (15 miles) from the Pacific Ocean, MonteBello ranges in elevation from 400 to 800 meters (1300 to 2600feet). Its soils are green soil with clay over a bed of limestone. Ittruly offers one of California’s most unique terroirs.
That said, Ridge faced challenges other Californians did in 2010.Ridge’s chief winemaker Paul Draper reports that 2010 was thecoldest he ever experienced at Monte Bello. There were fears thatthe grapes might not ripen enough to be classified as Monte Bello.Yet, experience with cool-climate viticulture gave Ridge viticulturalistssome advantages over others most accustomed to dealing withheat. The first two weeks of October yielded a beautiful Indiansummer, warm and dry. When harvest was made, Draper and histeam found what he described as some of the healthiest, richestgrapes he had ever seen in terms of phenolics, colour, and tannins.Sugar levels were just the slightest bit lower than normal, thoughtotal alcohol was 13.5 degrees, low for most California Cabernetthese days, but normal for Ridge.
AND, HOW DOES IT TASTE?
Remarkably complete. It’s true that Ridge offered its final assemblage forthis tasting, but even so, everything was in balance. Its colourresembled brilliant black cherries, an indication of what was tocome in the nose, with simply explosive black cherry, marzipan,and black peppercorns. The palate was a mouth-wateringcombination of fresh-crushed red and black berries, cherries andfine black pepper. A ribbon of minerality extended through thewine, woven with spiced black tea and balanced by terrific acidity.The structure was perfect, with firm tannins.
Draper has compared 2010 with the less cool but similar 2005vintage. Tasting the 2005 Monte Bello, one hopes he is correct. Itsappearance is dark, with brick-like hues that come from age. Onthe nose one perceives dry cherries, dark chocolate, mint, pepper,leather and some tree sap. The mouth tastes fresher than the nose,full of violet, black cherry and blueberry flavours, fine pepper,lavender, and lashes of minerals. The wine is superbly balanced.
FINAL WORDSIt has often been remarked that from difficult vintages come themost remarkable wines. This adage has certainly been proven bythe wines tasted. There will of course be other great wines fromthe United States in 2010. Solicited wineries in Washington Stateand the Walla Walla region of Oregon declined to offer their 2010wines for evaluation, though a few kindly offered examples offinished wines from 2008. They were stunning. Of particularinterest is the Quilceda Creek’s luscious Cabernet Sauvignon, andCayuse Vineyards stunning Syrahs, including Bionic Frog 2008,and Cailloux Vineyard 2008. It will be more than a pleasure to seehow things turn out for them in 2010.
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BordeauxTHE KEYS TO SUCCESS
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 39
Ask any wine consumer the name of a wine region
and chances are they will say Bordeaux. This
might have something to do with the region's
size, the early recognition of its natural factors giving it a long
history of winemaking, its port (making export easy) and its
unique châteaux concept where wines produced within a single
estate are bottled.
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An in-depth look at France's largest wine region and what makes it so special
In fact Bordeaux is the birthplace of oenology, the science of wine-making. It was Ribéreau-Gayon’s grandson Jean who created theworld's first Institute of Oenology at Bordeaux University in 1949and who discovered, with Emile Peynaud, malolactic fermentation.They developed the techniques of modern winemaking. This workcontinues at the Faculty of Oenology of Bordeaux, today basedat the ultra-modern Institute of the Science of the Vine andWine (ISVV).
CLASSIFICATION OF THEVINEYARDSNapoleon III wanted the great wines of Bordeaux to be part of theshowcase of the best France had to offer and in 1855 he organisedthe Exposition Universelle de Paris. He asked brokers based inBordeaux to draw up a list of the top estates. They sensibly usedprice as their basis and selected sixty or so of the most expensivered wines from the Médoc (and Château Haut Brion from theGraves) and categorized them into a five-tier classification ofgrowths. They also included twenty or so of the sweet white winesof Sauternes which were divided into a two-tier classification. Thelesser-known regions at the time, such as Fronsac, St Emilion andPomerol (and the rest of the Graves) were not included.
It was not the first classification of the wines of the Médoc(Thomas Jefferson, the American Ambassador to France, hadattempted to classify them 68 years previously, in 1787) but it isthe 1855 classification that has stuck and still dominates today.
Other classifications followed from other wine regions ofBordeaux, though many regions exist happily without a system,such as Pomerol; the static one-tier classification of the GravesClassification in 1959, and the two-tier classification (the PremierGrand Cru Classé and Grand Cru Classé) of the St EmilionClassification in 1955, which is, somewhat controversially,reviewed every ten years.
Bordeaux is the largest wine region in France covering 117,500hectares with 60 appellations producing a range of styles with apredominance of red wines. Although it has 10,000 differentchâteaux, it is the 250 or so top wines, the Grand Crus, that arerenowned throughout the world and fetch high prices.
If pressed to define an overall style, we might say that Bordeauxwines are known for their elegance and finesse. What gives themtheir notoriety and makes Bordeaux such a major player today?
LOCATIONBordeaux lies on the 45th parallel, mid-way between the NorthPole and the equator in the Northern hemisphere. As it lies to thenorth of many other wine-producing regions, ripeness can beachieved earlier here than in vineyards to its south. Grapes can beharvested earlier with lower sugar levels, producing wines withlower alcohol levels.
The climate in Bordeaux is temperate due to the proximity of theAtlantic Ocean which brings the warm Gulf Stream direct fromthe Caribbean to its golden sandy shores and inland via its rivers.The majestic Gironde River slices the vast region in two creatingwhat are called the Right (St Emilion, Fronsac, Pomerol) and LeftBanks (Médoc, Graves & Sauternes) splitting above Bordeaux intothe Dordogne and the Garonne via the large port of Bordeaux.
A broad band of pine trees were planted at the beginning of the19th century under the instructions of Napoleon III; they act as aprotective screen against winds and storms and help to regulatetemperatures.
Winters are mild and wet, normally providing water for use by thevines during the long, dry summers that stretch into autumnal“Indian Summers”. The oceanic climate remains fickle however,and autumn rain can badly affect the quality of the harvest. Itis this temperate climate that enables a degree of acidity to bemaintained within the grapes, even at perfect ripeness, givingBordeaux wines their signature freshness and finesse.
HISTORYIt was not until the Middle Ages that Bordeaux became thecommercial reference for wines that we know today, with the marriageof Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152 to Henri Plantagenet, the futureking of England. Thousands of tonneaux of fine, light wines(known as claret, clairet being ‘light’ in French) were exported toEngland for over 300 years.
It was within the second golden era for Bordeaux, at the end of the18th century, with the colonisation of the islands of America, thatthe concept of châteaux was developed and the wine from asingle domaine was bottled and marketed. It started a fashion forthe fine wines of Bordeaux. It was not until the mid-17th centurythat the marshes of the Médoc were drained by the Dutch and theestates of the Médoc were planted.
Throughout the history of the vine and winemaking, Bordeauxhas played a significant role. It has helped to find solutions forvarious crisis that struck the vineyards in Europe, such as mildew.It was Ulysse Ribéreau-Gayon at the University of Bordeaux - formerassistant to Louis Pasteur - who found the solution in the bouillieBordelaise, a mixture of copper sulphate and lime.
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THE ALLUVIAL GRAVEL MAKES UP THE FAMOUS GRAVEL CROUPS
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BORDEAUX IS THE LARGEST WINE REGION IN FRANCE COVERING 117,500 HECTARES WITH 60 APPELLATIONS PRODUCING A RANGE OF STYLES WITH A PREDOMINANCE OF RED WINES
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million years ago. It is this stone that underlies the plateau of StEmilion. This beautiful honey-coloured stone, the Pierre deBordeaux, was heavily quarried to make many of the facades in thecity and which today leaves kilometers of tunnels under themedieval town. The vines' shallow roots grow in a sandy loam soilwhich sits on the top of this stone; they are unable to penetratethis compacted stone but do not suffer as they receive a steadysupply of water sucked upwards from the water table through theporous stone via capillary action.
The second major type of soil is the alluvial gravel that was laiddown more recently in the Quartenaire period (less than 2 millionyears ago), made up of deep, coarse-textured gravels. They makeup the famous gravel croups found on elevations in the HautMédoc, Graves, Sauternes, Pomerol and Western St Emilion. Theyare well-drained andaerated, and enable deep penetration of thevines' roots.
GRAPE VARIETIESBordeaux’s grape varieties are well-known and have been exportedall over the world. The red and white wines of Bordeaux are madefrom a blend of different varieties. This is partly explained by thechangeable climate. Having a number of different varieties acts as
THE TERROIRSThe vineyards of Bordeaux are planted on relatively flat land in anumber of different soil types such as clay, sand, gravel andlimestone.
The mother rock of the region was laid down in the Tertiaryperiod (over 2 million years ago) and became overlaid by clay,sands from the Landes area to the south and by deposits of gravelin elevated areas brought by the Garonne River, mostly from thePyrenees and in some areas from the Massif Central.
The most ideally suited soils for vine growing are those that arewell-drained and infertile, allowing an arrêt de croissance (themoment when the vine switches from nourishing its foliage tonourishing its fruit - essential in the development of qualitygrapes).
Generally the cooler, clayey soils (predominantly found on theRight bank but also found elsewhere) suit the Merlot, and thewarmer, free-draining gravel (predominantly on the Left bank butalso found in pockets on the Right) suits Cabernet Sauvignon.
There are two main types of “super” soil in Bordeaux that producethe finest wines. The oldest type of soil is the compacted hardasteries limestone which dates back to the Tertiary period some 50
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
BORDEAUX WINES WERE ALWAYS AGED IN BARRELS UNTIL THE DEVELOPMENT OF BOTTLING AT THE CHATEAU IN THE 20TH CENTURY
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HOW DO YOU DEFINE YOUR TERROIR ? Terroir is one of the main factors of why one wine tastesdifferent from another. It is the blueprint, the starting point.Terroir is what gives the grapes their uniqueness, which in turndefines the wine’s style. It is not just the soil but the whole vineenvironment, including its micro-climate and its setting.
COMTE ERIC D’ARAMON, CHÂTEAU FIGEAC,PRÉMIER CRU CLASSÉ ST EMILIONSurface: 40 hectaresProduction: 100 000 bottlesGeology: 3 mounds of gravelsVarieties: 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc, 30%MerlotAt the very western end of theappellation on the borders of Pomerolwe find the Graves of St-Emilionwhere gravel soils predominate. TheGunzian graves de feu was brought hereby the Dordogne River and by itstributaries, the Isle and Dronne rivers.The gravel originates from theQuaternary period and comes notfrom the Pyrenees but from the olderMassif Central.It is these warm gravels that are well-suited to the late-ripeningCabernet Sauvignon which is rare in the rest of St Emilion.lt is deposited in five mounds; two in the vineyards of Cheval Blanc,while the remaining three are found at Figeac. They have an altitudeof 36 - 38 metres above sea level, and the gravelly soils are generally7- 12 metres deep. As owner Eric d’Aramon says, “When we excavatedthe soil to build our cellars in the 1970s we saw that the vine rootshad dug down several metres to reach the water table.” At Figeac, unlike its neighbours Cheval Blanc, clay combines with thegravel which is particularly well-suited to the Cabernet Franc grape.This unique terroir makes Figeac “a wine of finesse and elegance”,according to d’Aramon.
HENRI LURTON, CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC,2EME CRU CLASSÉ, MAUGAUXSurface: 75 hectaresProduction: 150 000 bottlesGeology: Deep-lying gravels from the Quaternary periodVarieties: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4.5%Cabernet Franc, 0.5% CarmenèreContinuing the research done into thesoils of the property by ProfessorSeguin at the University of Bordeauxand by his father Lucien, Henri Lurtoncommissioned his own geologicalmap of the vineyards of Brane-Cantenac in 2003 by Pierre Viaud. Itidentified the 75-hectare vineyard asdivided into four main soil typesproducing very different wines. Asowner Henri Lurton says “Brane-
Cantenac is a vin d’assemblage and there is much work to marry thesedifferent wines from different terroirs. But it is this that gives the wineits complexity.” Henri Lurton started working on the estate in 1986and over the years has come to know his different terroirs intimately.“During harvest in 2006, we had a down-pour and I knew that dueto the excellent drainage on the gravel plateau in front of theChâteau, I could leave picking the grapes for a couple of days andtend to more urgent plots!”The four main types of terroir include: The Plateau of Brane: 30 hectares of a high mound of GravesGaronnaises, 22 metres at its summit. It has a high percentage of claywhich ensures that vines have access to water during dry periods“drop by drop”. The water table is very low at 5 - 6 metres.Behind the Château: 15 hectares of more recent gravels and sandsNotton: 13 hectares of deep gravels of the Quaternary period of6 metres depth La Verdotte: 10 hectares of sand and gravels with some iron subsoils
PHILIBERT PERRIN, CHÂTEAU CARBONNIEUX,GRAND CRU CLASSÉ DE GRAVESGeology: Deep gravel on slopesRed Vineyard Surface : 50 hectaresProduction: 200 000 bottlesRed Varieties: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and CarmenèreWhite Vineyard Surface: 42 hectaresProduction: 180 000 bottlesWhite Varieties: 65% Sémillon, 35% SauvignonFounded by Benedictine monks in the 13th century, vines have beengrown on this terroir for over seven centuries. The extraordinaryvariety of its terroir means that it is well suited to both the red andwhite varieties of Bordeaux and was amongst only six out of the 16estates classified in 1959.The property is located on a graveloutcrop deposited by the Garonneriver, brought from the Pyreneesduring the Quaternary era. It overliesthe older substratum of limestone(from the Tertiary era) which showsthrough at the base of the mound,having been eroded over thousands ofyears. It is well-drained and ripens thegrapes early. “We work continually torefine the choice of grape variety, itsclone and rootstock, to the soil and themicro-climate” stresses Philibert Perrin,Château Carbonnieux owner with hisbrother Eric. “It is not just about soil,we have found that the whites benefitfrom the coolness brought by theirproximity to the woods on the estate.”Cabernet Sauvignon is well-suited tothe large gravel, Merlot to the finegravel and clay, and the clayeylimestone soils suit the white varieties of Sémillon and Sauvignon.
Eric Perrin
Philibert Perrin
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HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
WHITE VARIETIES1% of surface of all planted vineyards
Semillon: 53%Sauvignon: 38%Muscadelle: 6%Colombard, Chenin, Ugni Blanc and others: 3%
Despite competition from new world countries, Bordeauxcontinues to be a key player in today's wine world. In 2009 itproduced a total of 661 million bottles which equates to 3.37billion euros. Sixty-eight percent of volume is sold in France. Therest (in terms of volume) is exported to Germany, China, Belgium,UK and Japan. In terms of value, Hong Kong is top of the leaguewith the UK, China and Belgium following.
The quality of the wines produced in Bordeaux continues toimprove. Over the last two decades it was technological advancesin winemaking that made the difference. Today it is in the vineyardthat the big changes are taking place as producers undertakeresearch to study their terroirs, analyse their soils regularly and usesustainable practices to enhance soil quality.
a safeguard against the loss of an entire crop of a one variety, aseach flowers and is harvested at different times.
As a rule of thumb, in the warmer, drier soils of the Right Bank thelater-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon grape predominates, whereasin the wetter, cooler, more clayey soils of the Left Bank, Merlotexcels. Of course there are exceptions.
In the blend of red wines the Cabernet Sauvignon gives the back-bone and tannic structure, the Merlot the flesh and juiciness, andthe Cabernet Franc brings aromatics. For the white wines theacidity and freshness comes from the Sauvignon and the Semillongives the richness on the palate.
RED VARIETIES89% of surface of all planted vineyards
Merlot: 63%Cabernet Sauvignon: 25%Cabernet Franc: 11%Malbec, Petit Verdot and others : 1%
MERLOT IS THE MOST WIDELY USEDOF THE BORDEAUX VARIETIES
SOME ESTATES ARE USINGWOODEN VATS AGAIN
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GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 45
The wind howls down your chimney as the snowdrifts
pile up under the windows. You pause - swirling the
warming red wine around in your glass - and think of
that delightful rosé, the perfect accompaniment to a long lunch
on a sun-drenched Provençal terrace last summer. You can still
hear the music of the cicadas and the laughter of friends and
family against the background clink of glasses, porcelain and
cutlery. The fragrances of thyme, basil, ripe tomatoes and lamb
roasting on a spit. Green and black olives and the amber of their
oil, against the dark velvety green of a cypress. And the enticing
pale strawberry pink of that rosé, with its fresh, fruity flavours…
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BY JANET EDSFORTH-STONE
ProvenceA look at the five main
rosé wine areas
Cabernet Sauvignon adds tannic weight to many cuvées
throughout the region.
COTEAUX DES BAUX DEPROVENCEThis is the smallest of the five appellations, with just eight
villages and 15 wine domaines in production on both slopes
of the Alpilles, grouped around the stunning rock formations
of Les Baux de Provence village in the Bouches-du-Rhône. The
soil is mainly chalk-clay, its stony nature providing good
drainage.
Production of rosé runs at around 30% of total output. The
regional Counoise grape variety may be added in small
quantities to the traditional varieties and Cabernet Sauvignon
The rosé wines of Provence, bearing the name of France’s best-
known region worldwide, account for at least 8% of total
international rosé production. A good enough invitation to
enjoy this delicious region’s hospitality: not just its wine
domaines but also its inns, wine bars and restaurants.
Historical sites, cultural events, beauty spots, the beaches
when the heat calls for water. And to start your trip, a promenade
through the wine regions.
Well over 50% of the total 27,000 hectares under cultivation
is in rosé and falls for the most part in the Bouches-du-Rhône
and Var départements, covering five main appellations. Each has
its own geology and terroirs, while the region’s principal rosé
grape varieties - Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan and
Mourvèdre - feature in most but not all of them. The ubiquitous
46 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
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48 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCECovering a wide area around the delightful university town of
Aix en Provence, the soils here are similar to those of the Les
Baux appellation. However, rosé production in this area rises
to 55% of total wine output over the 3,500 hectares under
cultivation. The grape varieties used are also nearly identical,
including the optional addition of small amounts of
Counoise.
Nearly 50 villages, more than 70 wine domaines and chateaux
and some 15 wine co-ops are involved in production. The
wines - light, fruity and aromatic - are a perfect accompaniment
to fish dishes, in particular nearby Marseille’s famous
bouillabaisse.
COTEAUX VAROIS ENPROVENCEThis region spreads out around Brignoles in the centre of the
Var, its western border at St-Maximin la Sainte-Baume. Soils
are stony chalk-clay with silex here and there, with a wide
variety of mini-terroirs. Some 55% of production on the
nearly 2,000 total hectares under cultivation is in rosé. The
regional Tibouren grape variety may be added to the traditional
varieties and Cabernet Sauvignon for an extra touch of finesse.
While Provençal rosés come in a variety of colours ranging
from palest pink to deep coral, salmon pink is one of the
nuances often seen here. Aromas and flavours run from light
red berry fruit and citrus to spicy, exotic notes.
BANDOLCentred on the Mediterranean town of Bandol and spreading
inland, this small appellation - some 1,400 hectares, barely
20% of it in rosé - is renowned for its highly successful use of
the Mourvèdre grape variety. For the rosés, the two other varieties
normally used are Grenache and Cinsault. Mourvèdre finds
one of its finest expressions in the chalky marl soils and
favourable maritime micro-climate of this appellation.
The colour often runs from a medium to deep salmon, with
aromas and flavours of citrus fruit and spice when young,
evolving to nuances of honey and dried fruit after 4-5 years.
Mourvèdre yields are kept low, producing wines with good
structure and concentration.
to contribute an elegant touch. A striking feature of this
tightly knit appellation is that 85% of its surface is under
organic or biodynamic cultivation - environmental concerns
being high on the producers’ list of priorities.
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AN INVITATION TO ENJOY THIS DELICIOUS REGION’S HOSPITALITY
Provence: A look at the five main rosé wine areas
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 49
Based on the traditional varieties plus Cabernet Sauvignon, these
rosés run from a soft pink to pale salmon. Complex aromas of
fresh and exotic fruit blend with floral and spicy notes. Like so
many of the region’s rosés, these are fresh on the attack and
smoothly rounded on the palate.
Rosés from across the Provençal appellations are delightful matches
for summer vegetables, fish and fish soups. They also partner spicy
Indian dishes and a variety of oriental cuisines to perfection. And
they’re hard to beat as an aperitif on a warm summer evening.
CÔTES DE PROVENCE -THE COASTThe Côtes de Provence appellation, by far the largest in the
region, covers some 20,000 hectares for all three colours
and runs from the Bouches-du-Rhône in the west, through
the Var and into the western area of the Alpes-Maritimes. An
overwhelming 85% of production is in rosé, with the Var
responsible for the lion’s share of this. The coastal region,
running east from Toulon to St Raphaël, is a homogeneous one,
with crystalline soils providing terroirs differing from those else-
where in the appellation - and from the other regional appellations.
ROSÉS FROM ACROSS THE PROVENÇAL APPELLATIONS ARE DELIGHTFUL MATCHESFOR SUMMER VEGETABLES, FISH AND FISH SOUPS
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LES BAUX DEPROVENCE
LA RIBOTO DE TAVEN
Tel. +33 (0)4 90 54 34 23
www.riboto-de-taven.fr
MAS DU VIGUEIRAT
Tel. +33 (0)4 90 92 56 07
www.masduvigueirat.alpilles.fr
MAS DE L'OULIVIÉ
Tel. +33 (0)4.90 54 35 78
www.masdeloulivie.com
LES COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE
LE CLOS DES FRÈRES GRIS
Tel. +33 (0)4 42 24 13 57
http://freres.gris.free.fr
LA ROYANTE
Tel. +33 (0)4 42 03 83 42
www.laroyante.com
BANDOL
HOSTELLERIE BÉRARD & SPA
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 90 11 43
www.hotel-berard.com
LES QUATRE SAISONS
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 25 24 90
www.lesquatresaisons.org
LE CLOS DE LA CHÈVRE SUD
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 32 31 54
www.closdelachevre.com
LA CÔTE
L’HIRONDELLE BLANCHE
Tel. +33 (0)4 98 11 84 03
www.hirondelle-blanche.fr
LE PRÉ AUX MARGUÉRITES
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 89 11 20
www.bonporto.com
LA FERME D’AUGUSTIN
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 55 97 00
www.fermeaugustin.com
COTEAUXVAROIS
LA MAISON DE ROCBARON
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 04 24 03
www.maisonderocbaron.com
LA SARRAZINE
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 73 20 27
www.lasarrazine.com
UNE CAMPAGNE EN PROVENCE
Tel. +33 (0)4 98 05 10 20
www.provence4u.com
50 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
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WHERE TO STAY IN THE CÔTES DE PROVENCE
Where to stay in the Côtes de Provence
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 51
WINING AND DINING IN THE CÔTES DE PROVENCE
LES BAUX DEPROVENCE
OUSTAU DE BAUMANIERE
Tel. +33 (0)4 90 54 33 07
www.oustaudebaumaniere.com
LES COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE
MITCH
Tel. +33 (0)4 42 26 63 08
www.mitchrestaurant.com
LA CAVE D’YVES
Tel. +33 (0)4 42 93 75 80
www.lacavedyves.com
BANDOL
HOSTELLERIE BÉRARD & SPA
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 90 11 43
www.hotel-berard.com
LE KV & B
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 74 85 77
http://lekvb.fr
LA CÔTE
BAR SAINT JOSEPH
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 43 28 84
GRAIN DE SEL
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 54 46 86
www.restaurant-cogolin.com
LE VICE VERSA
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 65 23 90
COTEAUX VAROIS
HOSTELLERIE DE L’ABBAYE DE LA CELLE
Tel. +33 (0)4 98 05 14 14
http://abbaye-celle.com
RESTAURANT BRUNO
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 85 93 93
www.restaurantbruno.com
VINS SUR VINGT
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 77 82 66
www.la-provence-verte.net/activites/
detail-restaurants.php?ref=568
52 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
QUALITY FACTORS
Until the beginning of the 19th century, rosé, or clairet as it was called, was virtuallythe only type of wine produced - except, of course, for whites. From that point on,due to advances in wine production, red wine would gradually begin to eclipserosés, given its capacity for storage and transport. Nonetheless, the last decade hasseen a remarkable revival of rosé wines, which are experiencing a boom in popularity.So what explains the growing success of rosés?
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Rosés stay the course
Rosés, currently appreciated for
their fragrant freshness as soon as
summer temperatures start rising,
are often not well understood. The first
thing to know about rosé is that, in France,
it is never a blend of white and red wine
(except in the appellation of Champagne).
However, it can be made by mixing white
and red grapes or the juice from these after
they have been pressed. Generally speaking,
rosés are made from red grapes, although
some include a percentage of white grapes.
So how does rosé get its distinctive pink
colour? There are two distinct methods,
known as rosé de presse (pressing) and rosé
de saignée (bleeding off). The former
involves putting the crushed grapes in a vat
where they start fermenting. The colour
contained in the grape skins gradually dissolves
in the juice as the temperature increases.
The winemaker monitors this process carefully
by taking samples, and when the wine
reaches the desired colour, the juice is taken
Rosés stay the course
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 53
ROSÉS ARE MADE FROM RED GRAPES,SOME INCLUDE WHITE GRAPES
out of contact with the skins and removed to another container
so fermentation can be completed without further colour input.
Rosé de saignée is produced by ”bleeding off” the vat. This
involves progressively removing juice from the vat during the
fermentation of red wine. This process requires a high degree
of technical skill and experience, as it is very difficult to produce
a consistent wine using this method. The fermentation of the
skins can range from 7 hours to up to 48 hours, depending
on the region, the quality of the grapes and the winemaker’s
judgement.
IN THE PINKTo give credit where credit is due, Tavel is the first stop in our
tour of French rosés. Tavel rosés are dry, fruity but powerful, elegant
and characterised by their southern-accented grape varieties.
Their structure and spicy finish allow them to pair well with any
dish, on the right occasion and at the right temperature.
Another big region for rosés is Provence. Its winemaking
reputation rests on rosé wines, although the region also produces
whites and reds that are increasingly gaining attention. The
various rosés of the Côtes de Provence are produced from the
harvests of five main types of terroirs, each with quite distinctive
characteristics. The wines from the area between the coast and
the Massif des Maures, for example, generally have a lighter,
more mineral character than those from further inland, where
the chalky terroir results in higher concentration. Aside from
these general conditions, many other factors also play a role in
the final result, including grape yield and the skill of the wine-
maker. In a nutshell, the aromatic range of Côtes de Provence
rosés is vast, from light, charming wines with a nose of candy
and flowers, perfect for an aperitif; to others with a mineral or
spicy bouquet suitable for pairing with grilled fish; and yet
others that are heady, fruity and fat and go well with desserts.
These aspects are all equally true of other appellations in
Provence, such as Bandol, Baux de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix and
Coteaux Varois. All use the same grape varieties in different
proportions: the terroir and the winemaker are the decisive factors
in the resulting wine (see the Travel section for a special report
on Provence, pages 45-52).
ROSÉ OR CLAIRET?Talking about rosé in Bordeaux is almost seen as an insult to the
classic red and white wines that have made the region’s reputation
over the last two centuries. However, it is important not to forget
that ”claret”, as it was called by the British, long represented the
bulk of wine production in Bordeaux and southwestern France.
Today, Bordeaux rosés have come back into fashion, as have its
clairets, although the latter are restricted to a smaller area.
Bordeaux rosés, if rather modest in terms of bouquet (the grape
varieties of the Gironde are not particularly adapted to this type
of vinification), have an advantageous price, whether in restaurants
and bars or via traditional distribution channels. The reason is
simple: they can be produced more rapidly and do not require
as many months of ageing in wine cellars as do their red
counterparts. They are generally light, with a bouquet of red
fruits and tangy candy, and can be considered ”thirst-quenching
wines”. On the other hand, clairets (whether these can be
considered rosés is another question) are the result of a longer
fermentation with the grape skins, similar to that of red wines,
giving them more body and character. Their aromas lean
towards ripe red fruit, caramel and toasted oak. They are often
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FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THIS ESTATE CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
CÔTES DE PROVENCE LA LONDE A.C. Domaine Saint-André de FiguièreCuvée Confidentielle 2010Brilliant pale pink. Focused nose of red berries. Finesse andelegance are key themes on the palate which is nervy withclear-cut fruit. Very fresh finish showing a hint of spice.A re f ined rosédrinking well withgrilled fish.
89/100
54 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
fleshy and round and are very appealing. They are excellent as
an aperitif wine or with light, aromatic or exotic cuisine.
Other regions in the southwest also produce rosés, for example,
Bergeracois, Côtes du Marmandais, Côtes de Duras and Buzet,
without forgetting Côtes du Frontonnais, whose rosés have the
particularity of a high percentage of Négrette, a characteristic
variety of this winegrowing area. Farther south, the wines of
Béarn and the Basque country also include a diverse range of
good rosés.
MARSANNAY RHYMES WITH ROSÉA rosé from Burgundy? You can’t be serious. Yet the first wine-
growing village in the Côte de Nuits heading south from Dijon
is Burgundy’s sole producer of a communal appellation rosé. The
impetus came after the Second World War from Joseph Clair, a
local producer who had been making rosé since 1919 (and largely
ignored) and the tradition endured. The rosés of Marsannay are
among the most unique in France. Sweet and fruity, they have
good acidity and an expressive bouquet of strawberry and raspberry.
QUALITY FACTORS
THE ROSÉS OF MARSANNAY AREAMONG THE MOST UNIQUE IN FRANCE
MARSANNAY IS BURGUNDY’S SOLE PRODUCER OF A COMMUNAL
APPELLATION ROSÉ
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THE LOIREAnother essential discovery is the rosés of the Loire. First, the
Sancerre, a rosé made from Pinot Noir. If it is little known, it is
likely the fault of the long acclaimed white Sancerre. Light and
fruity, this rosé has a fresh and fruity fragrance. Anjou and
Touraine also make a variety of rosés, but with different grape
varieties. The rosé of the Loire is dry and fruity, including at
least 30% Cabernet Franc, and can be produced throughout the
Loire Valley, whereas Anjou rosés use Cabernet Franc, plus a little
Cabernet Sauvignon, and are limited to the appellation of Anjou.
Available in dry or semi-dry, Loire rosés have a bouquet of flowers
and fruit sometimes enhanced by notes of candied fruit or caramel.
Anjou rosé, on the other hand, is made from Groslot grapes and
seems to have lost speed in recent years. The Touraine also produces
many rosés, such as the generic appellation Touraine, of course,
but also more localised and personalised wines based on local
varieties such as Pineau d’Aunis and Cot, for example. Other
Loire rosés include Cheverny, Coteaux du Loir (rare because of
the tiny production area) and Coteaux du Vendômois, and the
wines of Thouarsais (in Deux-Sèvres) and Valençay have excellent
surprises in store if opened at the right moment and enjoyed
with a simple dish from the region.
UNCLASSED WINESApart from wines whose name is known thanks to the reputation
of a region’s reds or whites, there are certain rosés that can only
be discovered by going out of your way to find them. For example,
the rosés of the Vendée, which come from four winegrowing
areas: Brem, Mareuil-sur-Lay-Dissais, Vix and Pissotte. These
regional wines will delight you if you have the chance to sample
them with the local cuisine during a stay there. Other rosés that
ADVERTORIAL
Abbaye Sainte-Marie dePierredon: a miraculous siteEmerging from a valley of cypress, olive and almond trees risesthe sole bell tower remaining of all the abbeys built by themonastic order of Chalais at the end of the 11th century and thebeginning of the 12th century. This magical place itself was verynearly wiped from the map and from our memories luckily, itescaped this fate.
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56 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
Abbaye Sainte-Marie de Pierredon: a miraculous site
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 57
The site is nestled against the southern slope of the
Alpilles massif in Provence, just opposite from the
famous Château Romanin. This haven for nature
lovers is part of the Alpilles nature reserve created in 2006. In
2001, Lorenzo Pellicioli, an Italian businessman, fell in love
with this incredible site and decided to buy it. The estate, located
in the centre of the nature reserve, spreads over a largely
untouched area, traversed only by a few dirt roads. Fascinated
by both the landscape and the abbey’s history, Pellicioli set
about renovating the chapel, the house and the gardens,
recreating an impressive family estate that is today enjoyed by
three generations.
The next step was to clean out and restore the property’ssprings to provide a source of water. Geologists were called into study the terrain to see if it could support a vineyard and anolive grove and to find the most suitable plots for planting.Once these areas were identified, they were cleared, developedto show them off to their best advantage, and planted withgrapevines and olive trees. In 2004, Laurence Berlemont’sCabinet d'Agronomie Provençale (Agency of ProvenceAgronomy) took up the challenge of completely recreating theagricultural activity that had long ago disappeared from thesite. Three years later, the estate boasted 10 hectares ofvineyards and 7 hectares of olive trees, cultivated organically;the first harvest took place in 2008.
For the final touch in this faithful reconstruction of theoriginal site, a herd of goats wanders among almond trees,lavender and truffle oaks, supplying the milk for artisanalgoat’s cheese.
In the same spirit and in tribute to the history of the abbey, thenames of the wines produced here are inspired by the rhythmof the monastic day from dawn to dusk: for example, PrimaLuce (the first light at dawn) and Ultima Laude (the finalevening prayer). The wine labels evoke the stained glass of theMiddle Ages, honouring the memory of the monks who livedhere for centuries.
ABBAYE SAINTE-MARIE DE PIERREDONLes Alpilles13210 Saint-Rémy de ProvenceTel. +33 (0)4 90 18 47 09 Fax +33 (0)4 90 18 47 03
contact@abbayedepierredon.comwww.abbayedepierredon.fr
CABINET D’AGRONOMIE PROVENÇALERoute de Vins Sur Caramy83170 Brignoleswww.cabagronomie.fr
LORENZOPELLICIOLIAND HISWIFE ATPIERREDON
ABBAYE DEPIERREDON IS
LOCATED IN THECENTRE OF THENATURE RESERVE
WATER HASREVITALIZED THE
ESTATE
LAURENCEBERLEMONT
58 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
QUALITY FACTORS
are a well-kept secret are those from the Côtes du Rhône. Not
only do the Rhône villages have the right to produce rosé, some
do it exceedingly well, such as Chusclan and Sablet. In Ardèche,
on the other side of the Rhône, Côtes du Vivarais rosés also deserve
to be discovered, and are remarkably good value. Gigondas
itself comes in a rosé version, made from the same varieties
used to make the red (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and
Cinsault), and often has a good structure, making it pair well
with spicy dishes. Not to be outdone, the Jura produces rosés
from the Arbois appellation, made from Trousseau, Poulsard
and Pinot Noir grapes. Fermented longer than most standard
rosés, they often have a darker colour, and their fragrant bou-
quet contains hints of the terroir, making them a perfect match
for local specialities.
A fitting way to end our tour of these ideal summer wines is a
visit to the Mediterranean sun of Corsica. Its rosés, made
mainly from Nielluccio grapes, go fantastically with its famous
sheep’s cheese.
In view of the diversity of rosés, how widespread they are, and
their enduring commercial success over time, rosés have proved
themselves real wines and not just a passing trend; that much
is not in doubt. Perhaps to give them the place they deserve, we
need to learn to understand them better, even if it means changing
stubborn habits.Gilbert & Gaillard
OUR PICKS
BORDEAUXBordeaux A.C.86/100 Château Castenet Greffier Vintage 2010 4.7 €86/100 Baron de Montfort La Rose de Monbadon 2010 6.00 €85/100 Château La France Vintage 2009 4.90 €Bordeaux Clairet A.C.86/100 Château Penin Vintage 2010 6.40 €
Here is our selection of French rosés that received the bestscores in our recent tastings (at least 85/100). They arecategorised by winegrowing region, by appellation and byscore. You can also refer to our tasting notes on our websitewww.gilbertgaillard.com or now on your smartphone.
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90/100 Bandol A.C.Domaine La Suffrène 2010
Rosés stay the course
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 59
89/100 Sancerre A.C.Michel Vattan 2009
88/100Tavel A.C.Domaine des Carabiniers 2010
87/100 Languedoc A.C.Mas des Dames 2010
CORSEVin de Corse Calvi A.C.86/100 Domaine A Ronca Vintage 2010 7.00 €
LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLONCorbières A.C.86/100 Cellier des Demoiselles Rosé des Demoiselles 2010 4.95 €87/100 Château Beauregard Mirouze Tradition 2010 6.50 €85/100 Château Prieuré Borde Rouge Rubellis 2010 5.50 €Languedoc A.C.87/100 Mas des Dames Vintage 2009 3.95 €85/100 Cave de l'Ormarine Préambule 2010 3.60 €Pays d'Oc I.G.P.88/100 Domaine Savary de Beauregard Mathilde 2010 6.80 €86/100 Puychéric Vintage 2010 4.65 €86/100 Domaine les Quatre Amours Vintage 2010 7.00 €85/100 Mas Pellier Grenache 2010 5.00 €85/100 Domaine de la Clapière Jalades 2010 6.00 €
Saint-Chinian A.C.87/100 Cave de Roquebrun Ta Fiole de Rosé 2010 6.30 €86/100 Château Belot Le Vignalet 2010 5.00 €Vin de Pays du Gard88/100 Domaine des Cantarelles Chloé 2010 4.50 €
LOIRE VALLEYCabernet d'Anjou A.C.85/100 Domaine de Flines Vintage 2010 4.70 €Chinon A.C.87/100 J. Spelty Cabernet Franc 2010 5.20 €Coteaux du Giennois A.C.86/100 Philippe Raimbault Vintage 2010 6.30 €Rosé d'Anjou A.C.85/100 Domaine de Montgilet Vintage 2010 5.00 €Sancerre A.C.89/100 Michel Vattan Vintage 2009 7.50 €
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QUALITY FACTORS
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
ROSÉS AROUND THE WORLD
World production of rosé wines is difficult to evaluatebecause most national and international statistics grouptogether the production of reds and rosés. According to thedata available, world production of rosés represents less than10% (18-20 million hectolitres in 2001-02) of the totalvolume of wines (of all colours) produced across fivecontinents. Around a quarter of this production is in France,which is the largest producer of rosés in the world. Nextcome Italy and Spain, each of which produce around 4million hectolitres. Thus, Europe produces almost three-quarters of the world’s rosés, well ahead of the United States(20%) and North Africa (2%). The French region ofProvence alone represents almost 8% of the market. Almostall rosés are produced for domestic consumption in theregion or country of origin. Thus, the main producingcountries are also the main consuming countries (France,Italy, Spain and the United States). Rosés represent over 10%of these countries’ total wine consumption.
RHÔNE VALLEYCostières de Nîmes A.C.
85/100 Château Lamargue Les Grandes Cabanes 2010 5.50 €85/100 Domaine des Cantarelles Vintage 2010 5.00 €Côtes du Rhône A.C.
87/100 Domaine des Bernardins Rosé des Balmes 2010 5.20 €87/100 Domaine de Magalanne Vintage 2010 4.35 €86/100 Esprit du Silène Vintage 2010 6.90 €86/100 Les Vignerons du Castelas Vintage 2010 3.90 €Côtes du Rhône-Villages Laudun A.C.
85/100 Laudun Chusclan Vignerons
Prestige des Granges 2010 5.50 €Lirac A.C.
86/100 Cave des Vins de Cru Lirac Vieilles Vignes 2010 6.00 €85/100 Cave des Vins de Cru Lirac Tradition 2010 5.25 €Tavel A.C.
88/100 Domaine des Carabiniers Vintage 2010 9.50 €Vaucluse I.G.P.
87/100 Domaine de Tara Terre d'Ocres 2010 5.20 €Ventoux A.C.
86/100 Domaine du Bon Remède Pensée Sauvage 2010 5.00 €86/100 Saurette Découvertes 2009 5.75 €
SOUTH-WESTBergerac A.C.
87/100 Château Pique-Sègue Vintage 2010 4.84 €Fronton A.C.
85/100 Château Coutinel Vintage 2010 6.00 €
88/100 Philippe Raimbault Apud Sariacum 2010 9.00 €88/100 Vincent Grall Vintage 2010 7.60 €87/100 Domaine Henry Natter Vintage 2010 n/a87/100 François Millet Vintage 2009 7.50 €86/100Michel Vattan Vintage 2010 7.50 €Touraine A.C.87/100 Antoine et Vincent Dupuy Noble Joué 2010 4.20 €86/100 Domaine Joël Delaunay Les Cabotines 2010 4.70 €85/100 Domaine de la Renne Ciel de la loire 2010 3.55 €
PROVENCEBandol A.C.90/100 Domaine La Suffrène Vintage 2010 11.00 €90/100 Château de Berne Cuvée Spéciale 2010 8.00 €89/100 Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2010 13.00 €88/100 Domaine Le Galantin Vintage 2010 10.50 €Coteaux Varois en Provence A.C.86/100 Château de la Prégentière Vintage 2009 12.00 €85/100 Domaine Les Vallons de Fontfresque
Cuvée des Tamaris 2009 7.50 €Côtes de Provence A.C.90/100 Clos Cibonne Cuvée Prestige Caroline 2009 16.00 €89/100 Château du Galoupet Vintage 2010 10.20 €89/100 Clos Cibonne Cuvée Tendance 2010 10.00 €88/100 Château Barbeiranne Cuvée Camille 2010 12.10 €88/100 Domaine de Grandpré Cuvée Favorite 2009 6.00 €87/100 Château Cavalier Vintage 2010 9.00 €87/100 Fleur de l'Amaurigue Vintage 2010 7.00 €87/100 Domaine Les Maurines Cuvée Découverte 2010 6.00 €Côtes de Provence La Londe A.C.89/100 Domaine de l'Angueiroun Prestige 2010 13.20 €
BANDOL A.C. Domaine de l'Olivette 2010Pale orangy hue. Very focusednose marrying red berry fruitswith a delicate mineral tone.On the palate, a fleshy, expressiverosé showing great aromaticpurity. Lingering citrus fruit-dominated finish.
89/100
BANDOL A.C. La Cadiérenne Cuvée Grande TraditionPale pink. Very fresh, endearingnose with floral and focusedfruit accents. The palate isquite tonic and shows apronounced, upfront crispand spicy dimension. The finish remains fresh and isaugmented by a clutch of peppery notes.
86/100
SÉGOLÈNE, PRESIDENT OF THE COMPANY
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WINE GROWER PORTRAITS
www.leclercbriant.com
This family-run estate was managed by Pascal Leclerc-Briant until hissudden death in October 2010. The oldest of his four daughters, the 27-year-old Ségolène, took over with her radiant energy and the supportof her three sisters. Together, they continue in their father’s footsteps,transmitting his values and his passion for winemaking.
role overnight. Before this, I had only been involved in seasonalwork, and I had a bit of sales and marketing experience gainedat the estate.”
Through force of circumstance, Ségolène knew Champagnewell: its grapevines, wines and how to enjoy them. But herorientation was the totally different world of publishing,following a degree in French language and literature, with anoption in art history. She also had various trips around theworld under her belt, including time spent in Spain andLausanne, Switzerland, where she received a qualification inhotel management.
“My father always encouraged us to do what interested us andwhat we enjoyed. He used to tell us that you never know what
Pascal Leclerc-Briant had just finished harvesting his grapes
when he passed away on October 6, 2010 at the age of 60.
”He barely had time to taste the wines from that year’s
grapes,” relates his oldest daughter, Ségolène. The loss of this passionate,
warm, well-liked winemaker was a shock to the Champagne wine
world. Leclerc-Briant was an apostle of biodynamics, a growing
method that prioritises respect for the grapevines and the environment.
”He was curious about everything. He was bursting with ideas about
winemaking and travelled all over the world to find out about different
methods,” says Ségolène.
At the age of 27, Ségolène took over the management of the
house, becoming president of Leclerc-Briant: “This turn of
events wasn’t predestined. I more or less found myself in this
Champagne Leclerc Briant: a story of sisters
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 63
Champagne Leclerc Briant: a story of sisters
the future holds. All the experience I gained in otherfields is useful to what I’m doing now. I speak threelanguages fluently, and I’ve learned how to market andtalk about our wines,” says the young director.
A TRIBUTE TO PASCALTaking over the management of the estate was not asimple formality. Ségolène and her three sisters, Astrid,Sonia and Diane, suddenly found themselves confrontedwith urgent decisions that needed to be taken. “We hadto respond quickly. Importers and customers wanted toknow what was going to happen to the brand,” explainsSégolène.
Finding herself president of the company on October 7,the day after her father’s death, Ségolène managed tofind the energy and audacity to take on the challenge. “Ourfather was liked and respected in Champagne. That reallyhelped us.” This trust was very valuable at a difficult time, bothemotionally and professionally.
Since then, Ségolène has surprised observers as well as herself.“I’m interested in everything about the process, particularlyvinification and marketing. I would like to see us producingsome of our wines in barrels. We plan to experiment with thisat the next harvest. And my sisters and I would like to pay tributeto our father with a special vintage from the 2010 harvest,” shesays. “Perhaps a rosé blend,” adds Astrid, age 25, who hasbeen working at her sister’s side since their father passed away.“I’m a philosophy teacher. When our father died, I was teachingat a lycée in Ardennes. I resigned so I could come and helpSégolène, but I may go back to teaching at some stage.”
THIS CHARMING QUARTET REPRESENTS THE SIXTH GENERATION OF THIS FAMILY OF WINEMAKERS
CHAMPAGNE LECLERC BRIANT
67, rue Chaude Ruelle BP 108 - 51204 Epernay Cedex - FranceTel. +33 (0)3 26 54 45 33 - www.leclercbriant.com
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Ségolène is delighted to be able to count on Astrid, who isinvolved in certain aspects of the winemaking process. Theirtwo other sisters are still students. Sonia, aged 22, is studyingbusiness in Paris, and Diane, 19, just began medical school.“We are very close,” affirms Ségolène on behalf of this charmingquartet who represent the sixth generation of this family ofwinemakers, and who possess a luminous intelligence of whichPascal can be proud.
Jean Batilliet
Ségolène Astrid
Sonia Diane
64 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
When Paris-born Suzel went to Nice to visit her best
friend from school in the early 1960s, she had
neither marriage nor wine in mind. However, her
friend’s husband was a friend of Jacques de Lanversin and the rest,
as they say, is history. Suzel and Jacques married in 1965, and
before long they were busy renovating a ruin to live in while they
pondered the best use of the slopes on this domaine in Saint-
Maximin la Sainte-Baume, 35 km east of Aix-en-Provence.
Jacques was a professor of law at the university in Aix before he
bought the 14 hectares of stony chalk-clay soil in 1963 and
became a vigneron following his dreams. A tentative start was
made with plantings of Grenache and Cinsault, but a change in
the appellation laws forced him to rip these out and start again.
“Over the next 10 years we planted Syrah and Cabernet
Sauvignon, and it went from there,” explains Suzel.
Today Domaine du Deffends has plantings of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault for the reds - the last
two used for the rosés as well - with Viognier and Rolle for the
whites. “We tried Mourvèdre, but we don’t have the right terroir for
it here,” adds Suzel.
These produce the domaine’s eight cuvées, though not all are made
each year. “In reds, we make Champs de la Truffière and Champs
du Bécassier every year. For the two others, it depends on
conditions. And with occasional exceptions, we make the two
rosés and two whites every year.”
The domaine has been Ecocert-certified since 2009, thanks to
ongoing efforts to keep non-organic intervention to a minimum
SUZEL DE LANVERSIN:“IT’S ALWAYS A CHALLENGE, TRYING TO
EXPRESS THE VERY BEST OF OUR TERROIRS”
Domaine du Deffends: when dreams become reality
WINE GROWER PORTRAITS
www.deffends.com
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How a trip to Nice led to a life amongst the vines...
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 65
Domaine du Deffends: when dreams become reality
the rosés. Yields are kept to a minimum, with 35 hl/ha for the
whites, 35-40 for the reds and 45 maximum for the rosés. Most
wines fall under the Coteaux Varois appellation, though both
whites and one rosé are Vins de Pays since the percentage of the
grape variety used falls outside the AOC laws.
Since she was widowed in 2004 Suzel has been at the head of the
domaine, with the help of a cellar master who also looks after the
vines. The Lanversins’ three children, Emmanuel, Anne and Marie-
Liesse, have all followed their own careers. However, they return to
the domaine regularly to help, and will be there to ensure the
continuity of their parents’ dream.
Suzel pauses to reflect on the nature of her work. “One has to be
prepared to adapt from one year to the next. There are so many
different conditions to take into account, not least the weather. It’s
always a challenge, trying to express the very best of our terroirs.
Then contact with the public is so important. But when they
appreciate our wines…”
Janet Edsforth-Stone
”WHEN IT’S HOT, WE CAN HARVEST VERY EARLY IN THE MORNING, THEN STOP AT MIDDAY”
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DOMAINE DU DEFFENDS
83470 St Maximin La Ste Baume - FranceTel. +33 (0)4 94 78 03 91 - www.deffends.com
in both vineyard and cuverie. Weeds are controlled by alternate
ploughing and grassing over between vineyard rows, and all fertiliser
is organic.
Harvesting is three parts mechanical and one part manual, the latter
for areas more difficult to access. For Suzel, the main advantage is
in being able to harvest at exactly the right moment. “Last year, for
instance, harvesting ran for a total of five weeks. For a small
domaine like this, we couldn’t have hired harvesters for that long.
And if it’s hot, we can harvest very early in the morning, then stop
at midday.”
Vinification is classic, with pumping over for the reds, and a light
pressing following maceration rather than the saignée method for
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A pioneering winegrowing region, Languedoc-Roussillon has managed to createa product range consisting of diverse and distinctive appellations side by side withfinely crafted Pays d’Oc wines. Developing these two parallel yet complementarytracks required vision 30 years ago, and today the resulting wines are winningover new markets under the umbrella brand for food and drink products from theregion, Sud de France.
The drive for quality in Languedoc
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FitouFitou
Minervois
St-Chinian
Corbières
Cabardès
Faugères
Maury
Blanquettede Limoux
Languedoc
Languedoc
Muscatde Lunel
Muscat de Mireval
Muscatde
Frontignan
Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois
Côtes duRoussillon
Côtes duRoussillon-Villages
CollioureBanyuls
Malepère
Perpignan
Montpellier
Narbonne
Têt
Aude
Hérault
Clairette du Languedoc
The drive for quality in Languedoc
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 67
IN LANGUEDOC, VINEYARDS COVER 230,000 HECTARES, OF WHICH 40,000 HECTARES ARE APPELLATIONS
Since 2006, the region’s winemakers have been able to markettheir wine under the label Sud de France, an umbrella brandconceived to promote the region’s food products. Supportedby the regional government, the export branch of Sud deFrance has opened “Maisons de la Région Languedoc-Roussillon” in Shanghai, Brussels, London and New York toshowcase and promote Languedoc-Roussillon products andhelp the region’s businesses build international visibility.Languedoc-Roussillon has been actively involved in the marketingof its wines and in supporting its winemakers in the search fornew customers.
Languedoc-Roussillon was long a bulk winegrowing
region composed mainly of high-yield vineyards. In
order to achieve the level of quality reached today,
this strategy had to be reconsidered. In Languedoc, vineyards
cover 230,000 hectares, of which 40,000 hectares are appellations,
resulting in a volume of 1.25 million hectolitres (Mhl) of
AOC wines, compared to 5.7 Mhl of AOC wines from 88,000
hectares in the Pays d’Oc. Languedoc-Roussillon is France’s
largest producer of wine of all categories, representing 35% of
national production.
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Rivesaltes et Muscatde Rivesaltes
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THE REGION’S TRANSFORMATION IS LARGELY DUE TO THE INNOVATION OFLANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON’S WINEMAKERS
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(2.75 Mhl). For AOC Languedoc wines, the export market represents37% of its total markets, making it the third largest AOC exporterof still wine (521,000 hl). Thus, for AOP and IGP wines combined,Languedoc-Roussillon is the largest wine exporter in France.
EXPORT SYNERGYThe region’s transformation is largely due to the innovation ofLanguedoc-Roussillon’s winemakers. The concept that hascontributed most to building the reputation of Languedoc winesoutside of France is the launch of varietal wines. This was firstintroduced by the wine producer and wholesaler Skalli, and wasfollowed by the Vins de Pays d’Oc in the 1990s. Today, these winesare sold in 150 countries around the world. “In 1999, thanks toBaron de Rothschild and Skalli, varietal wines from the regiongained a foothold in Québec, Canada, where they then paved theway for appellation wines over the last ten years,” says Barthès. Onthis development, both the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vinsdu Languedoc (CIVL) and the organisation of Pays d’Oc wineproducers agree that the two European labels (AOP and IGP)complement each other by making the product offer moreflexible: “The international pattern of wine consumption followsthe Anglo-Saxon model. In terms of varietals, Pays d’Oc has astrong presence in the market, which can then lead curiousconsumers to discover specific appellations in the terroir,”describes Barthès. Another convincing argument she makes in
In 2007, another important development occurred - the creationof the regional appellation Languedoc, which covers the entirewinegrowing region from Nîmes in the east to Castelnaudary inthe west, and stretching south all the way to the Spanish border.This appellation forms the base of the hierarchical categorisationunder discussion by the region’s wine industry today.
In 2009, the European Union brought in regulations to standard-ise wine labelling across its member states, launching AOP(Appellation d’Origine Protégée), the equivalent of the French AOClabel. Under the new guidelines, each producer organisation foran appellation became an ODG (Organisme de Défense et deGestion), authorised to enforce the regulations affecting theirappellation. Another change resulting from this European regulationis that Vins de Pays wines are now to be labelled IGP (IndicationGéographique Protégée), and come under the same authority as theAOC appellations.
“Receiving a European label of quality is recognition of the stridesmade in Vins de Pays wines over the last 30 years,” attests FlorenceBarthes, the executive director of Vins de Pays d’Oc. The range ofLanguedoc-Roussillon wines, the majority of which are IGP(contrary to other French regions), places considerable importanceon quality. In terms of volume, the Pays d’Oc IGP is the numberone exporter in France and the fifth largest exporter in the world
continued on page 70
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 69
ADVERTORIAL
THE MUSEUM SHOWS RECONSTRUCTED SCENES FROM
ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES
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THE COOPERTIVE CONVERTED AN OLD GYPSUM MINE INTO AN
AGEING CELLAR
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In the southern French region of Corbières, the history ofwine is told at Terra Vinea, where the wine cooperativeof Rocbère - which brings together winemakers from the
village districts of Peyrac, Sigean, Portel-des-Corbières andMonze - has converted an old gypsum mine into an ageing cellar.
The Rocbère winemakers behind this ambitious project havecreated a cellar and museum space of over 770 m² that welcomesmore than 50,000 visitors every year. Located just inland fromthe Mediterranean coast, the village of Portel-des-Corbières issurrounded by the vineyards that produce the reputed Rocbèrewine. A scenic tourist train allows visitors to take in the beauty ofthe landscape around the site, which is perched on a rockoverlooking the vineyards.
Nature stretches as far as the eye can see, interrupted only bythe 13th-century church of Notre Dame des Oubiels (oubiels is
TERRA VINEAFrom Narbonne, take the RN 9 in the direction of Sigean
and follow the road to Portel-des-Corbières. Open daily.
Price: 8.50 € (adults), 1 € (ages 6–9), 3.50 € (ages 10-14) Tel. +33 (0)4 68 48 64 90 - www.terra-vinea.com
an Occitan word meaning ”lambs”). After descending the hundredor so steps that lead to the cellar - 80 metres underground - alight show precedes a labyrinth of arched vaults whereRocbère wines mature in barrels or, for certain grape varieties,in tuns. Spaces dotted around the museum reveal reconstructedscenes from ancient Roman times, and displays of tools relatethe development of grapevine cultivation, cooperage andother important moments in the history of winemaking.
Back above ground, the guided tour concludes with a tastingof the sought-after wines of Rocbère. A shop and restaurantallow you to extend your visit as long as you like.
Terra Vinea: wine tourism with character
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JÉRÔME VILLARET, THE CIVL’S CHIEF REPRESENTATIVE
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support of the region’s strategy is that “high volumes and brands
allow better penetration of developing markets.”
AOP/IGP SYNERGYAlthough the new Europe-wide AOP label does not significantly
affect AOC appellations, the IGP label has a greater impact, covering
all Vins de Pays, including VDQS (Vin Délimité de Qualité
Supérieure), which have opted to be labelled as IGP. The removal
of the VDQS category in France ought to lead to greater transparency
for consumers, particularly in supermarkets. “This reform allows
IGP and AOP wines to be grouped together on supermarket
shelves for whites, reds and rosés - a system currently being tested
in the supermarket group Système U. In the region, Pays d’Oc
wines are in the majority, with 6 Mhl, followed by 2 Mhl for vins
de pays and small producers, 1.3 Mhl for AOC wines, and the rest
made up of table wines,” says Barthès. The new system allows AOP
and IGP wines to be found side by side on supermarket shelves. If
Pays d’Oc wine producers (as recently announced) take advantage
of the European rule authorising the production of sparkling
wines from IGP varietals, AOC Crémant and AOC Blanquette de
Limoux will have to adapt to this new reality.
MARKET SEGMENTATION SYNERGYSince 2006, Pays d’Oc has divided its range of wines into threecategories: “Seduction” is the base of the pyramid, with high-yieldtechnology-intensive wines produced in large volumes (3 Mhl)and sold for 2-3 euros in supermarkets; “Style”, a category aimedat the trendy bar and restaurant sector as well as retailers,
THE WINES LABELLED LA CLAPE WILL BE THE TOP OF THE RANGE
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LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON WAS LONG A BULK WINEGROWING REGION COMPOSED MAINLY OF HIGH-YIELD VINEYARDS
produced in large volumes (3 Mhl) and offering a range of originalbi-varietal wines sold for 3-8 euros; and lastly, “Collection”, thehigh-end category, from 8 euros a bottle, produced in smaller volumes(500,000 hl) and excluded from supermarkets in France.
As for the appellations, a year ago, CIVL started the major task oforganising the region’s AOCs into a three-level hierarchy. “SinceChristian Jeanjean took office two years ago, creating qualitycategories has been one of CIVL’s priorities. For years now,Languedoc has included some quality winemakers. Only ten yearsago, there were about 20. Today, the quality is such that the industryhere demands a hierarchy that corresponds to the different categoriesof wine produced. Bordeaux did this 150 years ago,” commentsJérôme Villaret, the CIVL’s chief representative.
This project will have a big impact on Languedoc wine productionover the next ten years. The appellations have been invited to sign acharter to reach the required quality level over the next two years.The pyramid structure consists of the AOC Languedoc appellationat the base, including everyday wines and brands produced inhigh volumes selling for 3-4 euros per bottle. In this marketsegment, strong brands such as Castel’s Roche Mazet, Jeanjean’sLa Croix Jeannel and Val d’Orbieu’s Mythique Languedoc, among
The drive for quality in Languedoc
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 71
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
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CORBIÈRES A.C. Château de Durfort 2009Concentrated garnet-red. Heady nose ofwild berries (strawberry, redcurrant),blackcurrant with refined toasted vanillaoak in the background. A refined, elegantstyle melding focused, crunchy fruitwith delicate melted oak. A successfuleffort.
89/100
CORBIÈRES A.C. Domaine Sainte CroixLe Fournas 2009Deep, dark purple. Deliciousnose of fresh forest fruits(blackcurrant, redcurrant…) with a heady background.Supple, velvety palate with soft mouthfeel and expressive,easy-drinking fruit. A charming young Corbières thatmakes an ideal introduction to the appellation.
86/100
ORGANIC
WINE
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AOP/IGP: THE DIFFERENCES
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AOPRegulation European label made compulsory
by Council Regulation (CE) no. 510/2006 of 20/03/2006
Objective To promote and protect the specific characteristics resulting from the terroir of the labelled product
Place Must refer to a geographic nameQuality The quality is related exclusively to
the product’s geographic origin
Origin The wine must be produced in the appellation and be made exclusivelyfrom grapes from its vineyards
Grape varieties The wine must be made exclusively from Vitis vinifera grapes
IGPEuropean label made compulsory by Council Regulation (CE) no. 510/2006 of 20/03/2006To protect geographic names and to designatethe origin of a food product that draws some of itsspecific characteristics from its place of originRefers to a geographic regionThe quality can arise from geographic origin or reputation or other specific characteristicsattributable to the product’s originProduction outside of the region of origin is authorised
The wine can be made from Vitis viniferagrapes or hybrids of Vitis species
WHAT FUTURE FOR VINS DE PAYS?Since 1 August 2009, Vins de Pays have become IGP, although so
far this change has not been very apparent. Yet this labelling
modification will have consequences for 150 Vins de Pays in
France. “The notion of Vins de Pays has disappeared, but the transition
to IGP has not been simple for winemakers. Although the Vins de
Pays label is less and less common, we’re now in the second year
of transition and the new categorisation has not come completely
into effect in France. Today, the label includes the name of the
winery, the grape variety or blend, and the vintage, as well as the
designation Pays d’Oc and IGP. However, the designation Vin de
Pays is still recognised at the European level, so it can appear on
the label as long as the IGP logo is placed in a noticeable position,”
clarifies Florence Barthès.
others, should sell 2 million bottles in supermarkets this year. Themiddle of the pyramid is the category Grands Vins du Languedoc,selling for 3.50-10 euros. The top of the pyramid, the Grands Crus,is reserved for niche wines over 10 euros.
Ten appellations have already committed to the process. “La Clape’s
wine producers’ organisation has signed the charter. This area
includes AOC La Clape wines ranging from 3 euros to 50 euros,
which confuses consumers. The new hierarchy will mean that
generic wines at 3 euros will be labelled AOC Languedoc, while
wines labelled La Clape will be the top of the range,” explains
Villaret. “Meanwhile, the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine
(INAO) is working to classify specific characteristics of different
terroirs in order to tackle the concept of vintage in a nationally
consistent way. Winemakers in Pic Saint-Loup, La Clape and
Boutenac (Corbières) have been working to ensure quality for some
15 years now, whereas other terroirs have not even emerged yet.”
Christelle Zamora
NEW YORK LIFE
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 73
You’re a well known chef, and, after closingyour restaurant at 1 a.m., where do you go? Blue Ribbon, of course.
www.blueribbonrestaurants.com
Their philosophy: a casual, delicious food and drink restaurant
For nearly 20 years, Blue Ribbon restaurants
have been destinations for New York
chefs, waiters, bartenders and the people
who love them, offering solid, often
unexpectedly good dishes, drinks, raw
seafood platters, whatever they want, into
the wee hours of the night.
The philosophy of owners (and brothers)
Eric and Bruce Bromberg at their first
restaurant Blue Ribbon Brasserie (1992),
was simple from the start: offer a casual,
but also “proper,” white table-cloth
ambiance serving simple, delicious food
and drink to New York’s bon vivants,
gastronomes, locals and visitors alike.
Opened from 4pm to 4am, no reservations
are taken, and there is no door policy.
Anyone who finds a space is welcome. As
grand in presentation as a classic Parisian
brasserie, yet intimate in space like a
neighborhood bistro, and as unpreten-
tious as a New York diner, Blue Ribbon
Brasserie offers impressive plateaux des
fruits de mers (raw seafood platters) along
with fried chicken, vegetable kebabs,
cheeseburger, tofu ravioli, paella and
pigeon, plus skate and sweetbreads, sea
bass and roast duck club sandwiches. Its
busiest time comes after midnight, when
chefs at other restaurants get off work and
simply want to relax. The wine list is
superb. In addition to oyster-perfect
classics like Sancerre and Chablis, one
will find more esoteric wines such Kalin
Cellars Semillon Sonoma, Loire Valley
Pineu d’Aunis, Italian, Spanish and
German wines. There is also a list of both
classic and original cocktails.
Three years later, the brothers opened
Blue Ribbon Sushi (1995), which for a
time was regarded as one of New York’s
best sushi bars (it is still excellent).
Unlike the rarified air of New York’s other
elite sushi restaurants, there is an almost
democratic feel to Blue Ribbon. Once
again, classics are offered, but also
innovations, too, with Raw Live Orange
Clam (Aoyagi) Sautéed with Asparagus
and Black Pepper sharing a menu with
Yellow Tail Tuna (Hamachi) Sashimi and
Freshwater Eel (Unagi) Sushi. Befitting
any fine sushi restaurant, there is an
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Blue Ribbon Sushi
Downing Street Bar
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impressive Sake list, one made accessible
by flavour profiles provided on the menu.
Yaegaki, “Mu,” Daiginjo is described as
“Fleshy, ripe green apples,” whereas
Dassai, Ginjo, Nigori Zake (Roughly
Filtered) offers “melon, [with a] hint of
almonds.” There is also a surprisingly
thoughtful wine list, too, including
Chateau De Chamboureau Cuvée d’Avant
Savennières, Ameztoi Txakoli, Larmandier-
Bernier, Blanc De Blancs, 1er Cru
Champagne, and some fine red wines, too.
An enthusiastic attitude regarding
conviviality, wine and drink is central to
all Blue Ribbon Restaurants, which now
number ten in total, in Manhattan,
Brooklyn, and from last year, Las Vegas.
The emphasis is on small production-
scale wines from independent vignerons,
be they from France, the United States,
Spain, Australia or Germany and so on,
and prices can be surprisingly good. At a
recent visit to Blue Ribbon Bakery,
Domaine Gauby’s Vieilles Vignes Rouge
was priced $60, a bargain considering it
costs $40-$50 in shops.
Blue Ribbon’s attention to wine is most
apparent at the miniscule Blue Ribbon
Downing Street Bar, which opened on a
narrow West Village street in 2007.
Twenty-one wines are poured by the glass,
of which six are sparklers as varied as
Domaine Champlou Vouvray Petillant,
Trabanco Sidra from Asturias, Spain,
Ca’dei Mandori Brachetto Rosato Brut
from Piedmont, and, of course
Champagne.
Themed flights of wines, such as Sherry,
Sake, Greek Whites, Crozes-Hermitage
and California Zinfandel are regularly
featured, offering opportunities to taste
all wines in a flight, or to enjoy a whole
glass or bottle. More than 300 wines are
offered by the bottle, as well as range of
artisanal spirits and innovative cocktails. The
food from the simple kitchen is good, too.
The idea of serving a range of top quality
dishes that can surely satisfy the tastes of
all might not be original to Blue Ribbon.
Indeed, it harks back to the classic days of
Parisian brasseries, which offered regular
people a wide range of options at all
hours of the day. But, as brasseries have
become “classics,” with codified menus
(huitres, choucroutte, magret de canard,
entrecote de boeuf, etc), it’s refreshing that
the Bromberg brothers have reinvented
the genre, making it their own.
BLUE RIBBONRESTAURANTS
www.blueribbonrestaurants.com
Blue Ribbon Brasserie97 Sullivan St, New York Tel. +1 212 274 0404 Hours: Mon-Sun, 4am-4pm
Blue Ribbon Brooklyn280 5th Ave, Brooklyn Tel. +1 718 840 0404 Hours: Mon-Thur, 5pm-12am; Fri, 5pm-2am; Sat 4pm-2am; Sun 4pm-12am
Blue Ribbon Sushi119 Sullivan St, New York Tel. +1 212 343 0404 Hours: Mon-Sun, 12pm-2am
Blue Ribbon Sushi Brooklyn278 5th Ave, Brooklyn Tel. +1 718 840 0408 Hours: Mon-Fri, 5pm-12am; Sat-Sun, 4pm-12am
Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill308 W. 58th St, New YorkTel. +1 212 397 0404 Hours: Mon-Sun 7am-10.30am; Mon-Sat, 12pm-2am; Sun, 12pm-12am
Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill LasVegas3708 Las Vegas Blvd South, Las Vegas Tel. +1 702 736 0808 Hours: Sun-Thur, 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat, 5pm - 2amBlue Ribbon Bakery
35 Downing St, New York Tel. +1 212 337 0404 Hours: Mon- Thu, 12pm-12am; Fri,12pm-2am; Sat, 11:30am-2am; Sun, 11:30am-12am
Blue Ribbon Market14 Bedford St, New York Tel. +1 212 647 0408 Hours: 8am-8pm
Blue Ribbon Downing Street Bar34 Downing St, New York Tel +1 212 691 0404 Hours: Mon-Fri, 4pm-2am; Sat-Sun, 11am-2am
Brooklyn Bowl61 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn Tel. +1 718 963 3369 Hours: Mon- Thur, 6pm-2am; Fri 6pm-4am; Sat 11am-4am; Sun 11am-2am
Downing Street Bar
Brasser ie Exter ior
TRAVEL
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 75
INDIANA IS CURRENTLY HOME TO SOME 50 WINERIES - A NUMBER THAT IS SOON SET TO DOUBLE
Wine in the heartland: discovering Indiana’s winesHubrecht Duijker has published almost 100 books on wine over the last30 years, including The Bordeaux Atlas and Encyclopedia of Chateaux,which was awarded a prize by the Académie du Vin de Bordeaux. Herecently toured Indiana in the United States to take an in-depth look atthis little-known but flourishing regional wine industry.
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IN RECENT YEARS, THE FRUITY ANDFLORAL TRAMINETTE HAS BECOMETHE UNOFFICIAL STATE WINE
THE INDIANA STATE MUSEUM ININDIANAPOLIS HAS A ROOM DEDICATED TO LIMESTONE
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Chardonnay, moving on to a spicy Primitivo, a complex
Bordeaux-blend Family Reserve and a soft and sweet Late
Harvest Riesling. We also tried the world’s first sugar-free sweet
wine, Slender wines, designed with special sweeteners for
diabetics, as well as a deep red Teroldego. Charles Thomas says
of his winemaking, ”My style is French. I refuse to make my
wines just to appeal to Robert Parker.”
SWEET WINE FROM SEVERE CONDITIONSChateau Thomas does not have its own vineyard. It buys 15,000
cases of grapes exclusively from other states - mostly from
An immaculately set table complete with printed menus
awaits a six-course meal prepared by a talented chef.
Are we visiting a prestigious chateau in Bordeaux?
No - we are receiving a royal welcome at the Chateau Thomas
Winery in Indiana. Created in 1997, the winery is located in the
neighbourhood of Plainfield, not far from the state capital of
Indianapolis. The location, says owner Dr Charles Thomas, a
former obstetrician and well-known collector of Bordeaux
(particularly the 1928 vintage), was specifically chosen to attract
the widest possible clientele: ”Some 100,000 cars pass by here
each day.”
Accompanying the delicious and distinctive Midwestern cuisine
of Indiana maize bisque, carpaccio of Wagyu beef, and bison
stew with mushroom risotto, we sampled a small selection of
Thomas’s 50 different varieties of wines. ”My husband works
more hours now than when he delivered babies,” smiles our
hostess. ”Just less during the night!’ Each of the wines is of
irreproachable quality and pairs excellently with the food: from
a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc to a rich, not excessively woody
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Wine in the heartland: discovering Indiana’s wines
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 77
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California and Washington. ”I don’t have the ambition to become
a winegrower,” Thomas explains. ”The soil in Indiana is too rich,
and the climate too harsh. I buy my grapes, which arrive in
perfect condition in refrigerated trucks.” Most of the other wineries
in the region, which number about 50, operate in the same way.
This explains why this state of 93,720 square kilometres, bordered
to the north by the immense Lake Michigan, counts only 170
hectares of vineyards. Our visit in the summer of 2010 illustrated
why the climate makes winegrowing virtually impossible.
Temperatures stayed above 30°C without falling at night, and
short but violent thunderstorms brought heavy rains. In spring,
frosts can be devastating.
JEFF DURM OF BUCK CREEK WINERY BUYS HALF OF HIS GRAPES FROM WINEGROWERS IN INDIANA AND, LIKE MANY OTHER WINEMAKERS IN THE
STATE, ALSO USES GRAPES FROM ELSEWHERE
”It’s a challenge to grow wine here,” says Jeanette Merritt, somewhat
understating the case. She works for the Indiana Wine Grape
Council, which promotes winegrowing in the region and gives
technical advice. Top among their recommendations to new
winegrowers is to install a drainage system. ”Draining is the biggest
problem,” she says. ”Precipitation can reach 10 centimetres a day.”
She also advises planting tolerant, hardy hybrid varieties. ”Noble”
varieties, originating from Vitis vinifera vines, do not prosper in
Indiana. However, hybrids such as Chardonel (a cross between
Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc), Chambourcin, Norton and especially
Traminette do better. This last variety was developed at Cornell
University from crossing Gewürztraminer with a numbered varietal.
Wine in the heartland: discovering Indiana’s wines
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 79
This grape produces a semisweet, fruity, somewhat spicy white
wine that in recent years has become a signature wine of the state.
Almost half of the winegrowers in Indiana now cultivate
Traminette. Despite the challenges, wineries are increasingly
fashionable: 10 new wineries will open in the region this year,
and almost 40 others are planned.
CAPITAL WINESAt the limits of downtown Indianapolis, with its excellent
museums and world-famous racetracks (the Indianapolis Motor
Speedway and the O’Reilly Raceway Park), Mark and
Meredith Easley produce wines from grapes grown in the
state. Some are cultivated in their own Ohio River vineyard,
which dates from 1971 and was one of the first to be planted
after the Prohibition era in the early 20th century. Even the
Easley Winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the region.
The 2009 vintage, with 14 per cent Chambourcin, was one of
the best wines we discovered in Indiana, with good structure
and a taste of fresh berries, mint and a hint of wood.
INDIANA COMPRISES 55 WINERIES WHICH ARE EVENLY DISTRIBUTED ACROSS THE STATE
80 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
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MORE INFORMATION
To find out more about winegrowing and wineries inIndiana, the site www.indianawines.org has a lot of usefulinformation. Many winemakers also have their own web-sites. For travel information, visit www.visitindiana.com.The state’s forests are best to visit in autumn, when theleaves change colour.
WHERE TO STAYwww.graygooseinn.com
In Chesterton
www.frenchlick.com/hotels/westBaden/A fantastic resort hotel in West Baden Springs
DR CHARLES THOMAS, THE OWNEROF THE CHATEAU THOMAS WINERY
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Buck Creek Winery, just 20 minutes from the centre of
Indianapolis, grows a quarter of its own grapes in a vineyard of
almost 2 hectares. Another 25 per cent of its grapes come from
other vineyards in Indiana, with the rest delivered mainly from
the state of New York. To learn about winemaking, owner Jeff
Durm, a former policeman, offered to work for free at the
Chateau Thomas Winery when he started out. To fight against
spring frosts, he lit campfires in the vineyards and kept them burning
all night. Buck Creek wines, like the others in the state, are sweet:
one is even made of rhubarb.
Just north of Madison, Indiana, we met Steve Palmer, a sort of
wine pioneer. He has a 5.6-hectare vineyard planted with the
regionally rare Pinot Gris and the Austrian Grüner Veltliner. He
says, ”My son wants me to plant Zweigelt, too.” His Edelzwicker
wine, a blend of the hybrid grapes Cayuga, Vidal and Vignoles,
is the most interesting, with a mild taste of green fruit and
fresh citrus.
One of the state’s oldest and largest wineries is found deep in
Southern Indiana - the Huber Winery. It delivers grapes to other
producers, as well as making a range of its own wines. Their Stella
di Luca dry rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon is very pleasant,
with aromas of berry and herbs. One of their best wines is the
HSR Heritage, an elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc barrel-aged for 20 months. We enjoyed a 2006
HSR Heritage with a perfectly cooked New York strip steak at the
1875 Steakhouse in the French Lick Springs Hotel and reflected
on our luck to have discovered the wines of the Midwest.
Text and photography: Hubrecht Duijkerwww.hubrechtduijker.com
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 81
FAMILY BUSINESS
To see all the Georges Duboeuf posters that appear all over the United States in late November excitedlyproclaiming Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrivé!, one might be forgiven for thinking this is another corporatemarketing campaign. One might think the same when seeing the cute advertisements of a beautiful youngcouple drinking Yellow Tail Shiraz in Italy. While one would be correct to surmise the marketing and advertisingaspects of Georges Duboeuf and Yellow Tail, one would miss an essential component in their development:that these are family campaigns brought together by one family man, William Deutsch.
www.wjdeutsch.com
Bill Deutsch, founder andChairman of WJ Deutsch, neverfails to mention the importance
of family, not just for his own company,but also the people he does business with.“It’s just better to work with families. We canunderstand one another. Their problemsbecome our problems, our problemsbecome their problems, things just workbetter.”
THE CORPORATE LIFEDeutsch came to the wine business fromthe corporate side. In 1961, he startedworking for Goldseal Vineyards in NewYork’s Finger Lake regions, which becamean important importer of French wines tothe US. After 14 years, Deutsch sensed the parent company AustinNichols (of Wild Turkey Bourbon fame) wasn’t interested in the winebusiness. He left for Somerset Wine Company in 1975 and stayedthere for five years, representing primarily the wines of Alexis Lichine.During this time Deutsch met Georges Duboeuf from Beaujolais andJean Sauvion from the Loire Valley. In 1980, it became apparent thatSomerset’s parent company Norton Simon didn’t want to remain inthe wine business, either. With twenty years of wine industry inexperience Deutsch decided to go on his own, figuring that if hecould spend time selling wine rather than planning monthly corporatemeetings, he might be able to carve out a niche for himself in theUnited States. Regarding corporations, which are prone to changingtheir focus, as unreliable, he decided to work only with family producers.“It seems that big [corporate] companies aren’t long-term playersin the wine business. Family companies, are….their problemsbecome our problems…”
THE FAMILY LIFEUsing his family’s laundry room inChappaqua, New York as his office,Deutsch started WJ Deutsch in 1981. Hehad one employee: himself. Initially, hestarted with wines he represented atSomerset, Alexis Lichine, Jean Sauvion, etc,and started building his business.
DUBOEUF EST ARRIVÉIn 1982, he was approached by GeorgesDuboeuf, who he had met a few yearsearlier. Duboeuf knew that Deutsch was astart up business, but since Duboeuf wasjust entering the US market himself, thepartnership might be symbiotic. Initially,Deutsch was only to handle the New YorkTri-State are (New York, New Jersey,
Connecticut), but within six months, he was given the whole EastCoast. It wouldn’t be until 2000 that Deutsch acquired the nationalrights to George Duboeuf, but by 1989, the brand became the biggestselling French wine in the US. Other early opportunities came, basedon personal relations and similar business sensibilities: Marcel Guigalasked Deutsch to represent J. Vidal-Fleury in 1982. In the same year,André Lurton approached Deutsch about representing ChateauBonnet from Entre-Deux-Mers. A relationship with Italy’s Pozzifamily in 1984 brought Villa Pozzi wines to the US, the mostimportant being their Pinot Grigio labeled “La Francesca,” in honourof Bill Deutsch’s wife Frances. Other opportunities came, including one from director Francis FordCoppola, who was introduced to Deutsch by Sam and Michael Aaron ofNew York’s famous wine shop Sherry-Lehmann (another familybusiness). Coppola engaged Deutsch to represent his new wineRubicon, as well as subsequent other wines. He did so from 1985 to 1999.
Family Man: Bill Deutsch, WJ Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.
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Peter & Bi l l Deutsch
82 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
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THE FAMILY GROWSStarting in 1985, Deutsch’s sons Stephen, now 51, and Peter, now 49,entered the business. A few years later, his daughter Susan (now 45)did, too. Their first jobs? Hitting the street, selling wine. Eventually,Stephen left the company; today, he works in the wine industry in theUS South. Susan, who was a dynamic sales and marketing force forthe company, has stepped back to raise her two children. Peterbecame Bill Deutsch’s right hand, and has since become presidentand CEO of the company, a symbol of his father’s trust and hisproven business acumen.
HERE COME THE AUSSIESThere is no better illustration of this acumen than the success ofYellow Tail. By 1997, the Deutsches, encouraged by Peter, searched foran Australian brand. Bill contacted the Australian Wine Commissionin search of introductions, and was put in touch with John Casella,the owner of a modest Australian family winery in Australia. Sensinga certain simpatico, two smallish family wine companies, an impor-ter and a producer, they concluded a long-term deal. Things didn’t gosmoothly at first. The initial plan was to introduce a wine called“Carramar Estate.” In 1999, 25,000 cases of Carramar wine arrived inthe US with faulty corks and all the wines were recalled back toAustralia. Horrified, John Casella took responsibility for the problemand absorbed all the loses. He also offered Deutsch the opportunityto end their relationship. “I told him, no way,” says Deutsch. “He wasan honest man who took complete responsibility for a mistake.That’s the sort of person we like to work with.” A year later, Casella re-evaluated his product and proposed a new strategy with a new brand:Yellow Tail. The wine would be simple, just two varieties, Chardonnayand Shiraz, low in price, around $6, and carried a catchy label: a car-toon kangaroo (actually, a wallaby). Initially, Bill was sceptical, butPeter was enthusiastic, imagining that it would have immediateconsumer appeal. No-one, neither Casella or either of the Deutsches,had any idea how much appeal. Estimates that they might sell 25,000cases by the end of 2000 were off by almost ten-fold. They sold225,000 cases, with retailers unable to keep it on the shelf. The
growth has continued unabated. Today, the brand sells 8 millioncases in the US (12 million worldwide), now divided across othervarieties, Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, differentblends, and a sparkling wine. “It was completely unexpected,” saysDeutsch.The Casella and Deutsch families are close. Of course, they have eachmade the other rich, but it is touching to see tears of pride well-up inBill Deutsch’s eyes as he recalls attending the dedication of YellowTail’s new bottling plant, only to find a prominent plaque onthe building dedicated to “WJ Deutsch & Family For Making It AllPossible.”
THE LEGACYThe honours have continued for Deutsch. In 1986, he was give theOrdre du Mérite Agricole, and was elevated to a higher level of awardin 1992. He was Market Watch Industry Leader of the Year, 2006, and,soon, he will receive perhaps the grandest honour of all possible inthe wine world, to knighted as a Chévalier de la Légion d’Honneur bythe President of the French Republic in 2011.Of course, not everything has been a success. Some relationshipsdidn’t pan out, notably a misinformed decision to partner with thenow defunct California winery Renwood. “We discovered the man wepartnered with was dishonest. So, although we invested $1 million,we pulled out.” A failed relationship over distribution of Pommeryafter the brand was purchased by Vranken has been in litigation for afew years. As of this interview, there was signs that a settlement wascoming, and, that they might be doing business again. “A handshakegave me hope, but we’ll see.” Deutsch, who recovered from a serious automobile accident at theend of 2010, is near retirement, but his legacy has extended to hisfamily. In the family business since 1985, his son Peter has cultivatedthe same relations as his father. The company continues to expand. Itnow represents 26 different family wineries from nine countries, and,it has now created a separate spirits division handling three brands.Starting with one employee, the company now has 185, and there isno end in sight. “So long as family comes first, everything will befine,” says Deutsch.
Jamal Rayyis
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“LE BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU EST ARRIVÉ!”
BRANDS REPRESENTED BY WJ DEUTSCH & SONS, LTD. Australia - [ yellow tail ], [ yellow tail ] Bubbles, [ yellow tail ] ReserveArgentina - Ruta 22California - Kunde Family Estate, Girard, Sonoma Coast Vineyards, Windsor Sonoma WineryChile - Llai LlaiFrance - Andre Lurton, Georges Duboeuf, HobNob, Patch Block, Pierre Sparr, Sauvion, Vidal-FleuryItaly - Barone Fini, Lionello Marchesi, Villa PozziNew Zealand - The CrossingsPortugal - Quinta do Vale MeaoSpain - Cruz de Alba, Mar de Frades, Ramon Bilbao, Volteo
IItaly is one of the world’s foremost andoldest producers of wine. Like Portugal, Italy
grows among the largest number of grape
varieties, some of which have been neglected elsewhere.
Italian vineyards cover 800,000 hectares and can be
found everywhere in the country, including the
islands. There are more than 400 different grape
varieties grown on the Italian peninsula, apart from
the international varieties of Chardonnay, Cabernet,
Pinot Noir and Merlot. In Italy and other
Mediterranean countries, local grapes are referred to as
”native” varieties, so let’s take a look at Italy’s natives.
In the days of ancient Greece (800-146 BCE), the
Greeks called Italy Oenotria, which means ”the
land of wines.” Winegrowing and winemaking is a
tradition that dates back thousands of years and is
found across the country; wine has been an integral
part of daily life in Italy for millennia. Until the end
of the Second World War, most Italian wines, apart
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 83
We take a look at the wealth of local grape varities to be foundin this ancient Mediterranean wine-producing country.
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Italy’s indigenous grape varieties
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from those from Tuscany and Piedmont, were sold mainly in bulk.
Imported wines were long considered primarily for the elite.
Understanding Italian wines and their diversity involves delving
into the country’s history of regional cultivation and winemaking.
Although Italian wines made from international varieties can
be interesting, they don’t reflect the terroir in the same way,
and they lack a strong regional oenological ”fingerprint”. Take
the Super Tuscans, made from a ”Bordeaux” blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot - although they are excellent examples
of territorial expression, equal to certain Grand Cru Classé
French wines, they don’t have the distinctive style of Tuscan
wines made from local varieties.
There are around 5,000 grape varieties currently cultivated
around the world, adding up to some 40,000 different names
in all their translations. In Italy, local varieties have always
been deeply embedded in the local agrarian system. The cultivation
of different grape varieties remains connected to the environment
and the local agricultural customs, as well as to local drinking
habits and needs. Does that mean that certain varieties introduced
to a region more than 50 years ago are ”local” varieties? For
example, in Lazio, Cabernet Sauvignon was introduced by
Venetian families during Mussolini’s regime in the framework
of a programme to reclaim the region’s swamps.
When looking at the characteristics of local grape varieties, it
is important to make certain distinctions. ”Native” varieties
come from wild grapes that have been ”domesticated” (such
as Lambrusco Viadanese and Groppello Ruberti), as opposed
to ancient or modern varieties, the most recent of which are
essentially Cabernets, Pinots and Chardonnay.
From north to south, each Italian winegrowing region (there
are 21, including more than 360 DOC and DOCG appellations)
is identified with a predominant local variety that is a true
expression of the terroir. These include Sangiovese, a red grape
native to Tuscany and the most cultivated variety in Italy
(86,000 hectares), followed by the white grape Catarratto in
Sicily, Tuscan Trebbiano in central Italy, Barbera in Piedmont
(a qualitatively inferior variety compared to Nebbiolo),
Negroamaro in Puglia, the red varieties of central and southern
Italy, Montepulciano, Trebbiano Romagnolo and Primitivo in
the south, as well as the white grape Malvasia. The cultivation
of international varieties has followed trends: Pinots in the
1970s, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet in the
1980s, and Syrah in the 1990s. Central Italy in particular,
which previously mainly grew relatively mediocre Sangiovese
and Trebbiano, has invested heavily in planting international
varieties. These are potentially profitable due to the large
volumes produced, but costly. This has unfortunately led
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IN ITALY, LOCAL VARIETIES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN DEEPLY EMBEDDED IN THE LOCAL AGRARIAN SYSTEM
continued on page 86
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 85
ADVERTORIAL
Since 1897,Nino Negri,the leading
producer of Valtellina wines, has wonan impressive array of prizes. In additionto 13 years of superb wines, in 2003 itwas awarded best Italian red for its2001 vintage.
This year, it was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator
and 94 points by Parker. The 5 Stelle Nino Negri has
long been synonymous with the highest quality of
the nebbiolo variety in Valtellina and is one of the top 30
wines to represent Italian viticulture on the world stage. Wine Spectator also gave 90 points to the Inferno Mazèr 2001.Adjudicated a Three Glass champion by the Gambero Rossoguide for three years in a row, the traditional Sfursat has earneda place in the ranks of major prize winners. It is testimony to thefact the quality of the house of Nino Negri is not just limited toits selections but starts with its basic lines. Over the last fewyears, the estate has collected a series of 5 bunch trophies fromthe AIS for its world-famous 5 stelle and its Vigneto Fracia. In2008, Casimiro Maule (above) was voted best oenologist in Italy.
The production of great wines requires great commitment andcontinuous investment. Nino Negri is the proud holder of twocertifications: ISO 9000 and ISO 14000. The first of thesemonitors the way the estate is managed. Its objective is toensure that the regulations governing all the vinificationprocesses are in place to enhance the final product for the consumer.The second certification is environmental and ensures that theestate respects its natural surroundings and abides by strict reg-ulations designed to limit any pollution not only in the cellar’sproduction processes but also on the farm. The aim is toimprove the quality of the wines but above all the quality ofthe working environment and the territory.
Modern techniques combined with absolute respect for traditionallow us to obtain the very best from our nebbiolo grapes, resultingin wines that are extremely pleasing, elegant and excellent inquality. Between 1997 and 2005 Nino Negri replanted 11 of its 34
hectares with new clonal selections of nebbiolo (chiavennasca)and new planting systems. Our wines are available in restaurantsin 23 countries, a tribute to the quality we offer.
CASIMIRO MAULE, OENOLOGIST36 growing years amount to a life of sacrifice for a man. Theyalso amount to a lifetime of invaluable experience; a life livedamong the vineyards in contact with nature, its aromas and themoods of the earth.
36 years leave their mark on the eyes, the mind, the heart andthe hands. They form a man’s character, the evolution of a wineand a territory. Here, they are the steps in the existential journey ofa gentleman, an oenologist, a dominant figure in the world ofwine: Casimiro Maule.
Today Maule runs and manages Nino Negri. He headed theConsortium for the Protection of Valtellina Wines for 13 years,where he changed the way wine is made the valley. All creditgoes to Maule for the success of Valtellina wines in Italy andoverseas and for the Valley’s DOCG designation.His wines, his Sforzato 5 Stelle, have achieved cult status,recognised and commended worldwide.
“..to maintain these standards … we must study and know thenebbiolo variety in Valtellina inside out, starting with the soilin which it grows … in the past, we would allow the earth torest for a certain time, now … we work these terrains continuously.The soil … needs turning and nourishing. We must start toplan targeted and programmed interventions that will ensurethe earth is constantly nourished.” �
Nino Negri estate
NINO NEGRI
Cantina: Via Ghibellini, 3 - 23030- Chiuro (Sondrio)Tel. +39 0342 485211 Fax +39 0342 482235
www.ninonegri.it
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HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
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CASIMIRO MAULE, NINO NEGRI’SOENOLOGIST FOR THE PAST 40 YEARS
winegrowers to neglect local but less well-known varieties
with good yields such as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Colorino
and the white grape Grechetto.
Three regions dominate national wine production: Veneto,
Tuscany and Piedmont. Tuscany, with 3 million hectolitres of
wine per year, produces fine wines mainly from Sangiovese,
which is sometimes blended with Canaiolo and Colorino for
colour. Piedmont, the home of Nebbiolo, also produces
well-known wines. However, Veneto (particularly Verona and
Vicenza) is Italy’s top producer of grapes and wine, making up
around 20% of total national production. The main grapes in
this region are local varieties, such as Corvina (the majority),
Molinara and Rondinella, which are blended in Veneto’s most
famous wine, Amarone. Nonetheless, 60% of the wines produced
in Veneto are Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) table wines,
as opposed to 40% from DOC or DOCG appellations.
But it would be misleading to suggest that Italian wine can be
summed up by this trio of regions. As the country’s many local
varieties attest, there are a wealth of small appellations to be
discovered, where auteurs delight wine lovers with rare vintages
characteristic of the terroir. Some true oenological treasures
are produced by ‘undiscovered’ estates, like those, for example,
near the Swiss-Italian border in the region of Valtellina, which
were founded by wealthy Swiss families originally from
Grison. Here, the Piedmont variety Nebbiolo is king, and it
receives the careful attention of growers who cultivate it on steep
mountain terraces.
VALTELLINA WINESVineyards appeared in Valtellina, located in northern Italy in
the mountainous area of Lombardy, from the 9th century.
Unusually, they are planted at 800 - 1300 metres altitude and
face south, southeast and southwest. There is little information
about the grape varieties that were cultivated here before the
end of the 16th century. That period brought the emergence of
tenant farming contracts, in which we can begin to identify
certain white and red grape varieties such as Chiavennasca,
Pignola, Rossola Dura, Berzemina or Bressana. The development
in the quality and quantity of Valtellina wines was directly linked
to the development of its sales to the neighbouring Swiss canton
of Grison. Today Valtellina (which includes appellations such
as DOC Valtellina or the prestigious DOCG Sfursat) produces
fine red wines from Nebbiolo grapes (locally still
called Chiavennasca), a variety originally from Piedmont
(more specifically the hilly area of Langhe) and used in the
Crisscrossing Valtellina, one cannot help but be awed by the
amazing sight of vineyards cultivated on terraces dug into
dolomite rock at altitudes of 260 - 900 metres. This has been
described as ”extreme” viticulture, the harvests carried out
exclusively by hand on each small terrace, and the grapes
transported to the wineries by helicopter. The famous
Sforzato, or sfursat in the local dialect, is one of the rare
wines, along with Veneto’s Amarone, to be made from dried
grapes. The grapes are harvested a bit earlier for this wine in
order to ensure they are in good condition. They are then placed
in small wooden crates with a capacity of 4-5 kg and dried in
naturally ventilated rooms until December 10th of the harvest
year. This process of dehydration leads to a relatively high
concentration of sugar in the wine, while preserving the substances
that supply its aromas and colour. The resulting wine is generally
powerful, with olfactory and taste complexity, and pairs well
with rich foods or desserts.
The Nino Negri winery was the first to open its doors in
Valtellina in 1897, and itself bears witness to the development
of winemaking in region. Casimiro Maule, the estate’s oenologist
for the past 40 years, has a very territorial approach to wine.
famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Nebbiolo offers a good
balance of alcohol and acidity, which, along with its bouquet
and delicate yet characteristic taste, often results in wines with
great ageing potential. In Valtellina, Nebbiolo makes up 90%
of the vines; here the grape is more authentic and older than
its Piedmont cousin because it has been less subjected to cloning,
and as a result has undergone less transformation.
Yet not all wines made from Nebbiolo are unconditionally
exceptional. For a successful vintage, it is crucial that the
grapes ripen gradually, ideally during hot days and cool
nights. They contain limited amounts of anthocyanins, the
majority of which are ”cianinas”, which tend to cause insoluble
precipitation during the first hours of fermentation. Nebbiolo
often has an orangey colour; in order to stabilise it, it is
necessary to promote the polymerisation of the tannins with
the anthocyanins at a fermentation temperature near 35°C
and frequently aerate the wine using remontage (there are certain
exceptions, for example, at the Nino Negri winery). The resulting
wines are obviously different from those of the past, and generally
have a shorter maturing time. On the other hand, they are very
successful on the international market.
Italy’s indigenous grape varieties
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NINO NEGRI SEEKS OUT THE BEST EXPRESSION OF NEBBIOLO, THE LOCAL VARIETY PAR EXCELLENCE
IN NINO NEGRI WINES, NEBBIOLO IS NOTBLENDED WITH OTHER VARIETIES
As opposed to ”modern” wineries such as Fay or Mamete
Prevostini, Nino Negri seeks out the best expression of Nebbiolo,
the local variety par excellence. The wines produced here are
often distinguished by their origin from one of the four regional
DOC and DOCG appellations (Sassella, Grumello, Valgella and
Inferno) and are a reflection of the vine and the exposition of
the vineyard. This is enhanced further in Nino Negri wines, as
Nebbiolo is not blended with other varieties and remontage is
avoided by the use of tanks equipped with oxygenating systems.
The maceration of the grapes is brief; the maturation in barrels
is rapid and is carried out in new French oak barrels made
from aged wood that has been exposed to the open air for at
least 30 months, so the wood flavour is less invasive. This
retains the natural characteristics of the Nebbiolo grape, ensuring
that the fruit is not dominated by the oak. The original bite of
this grape variety offers a sensation on the palate that is both
powerful and smooth. The wines are not filtered and do not
undergo cold stabilisation. Apart from 2009 Ca’ Brione, a blend
of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Nino Negri wines are
monovarietal reds, made exclusively from Nebbiolo.
In our tasting at the Nino Negri winery, the 2005 and 2007
vintages came out best, particularly for the middle-range
wines: for example, 2007 Vigneto Fracia and 2007 Inferno
Valtellina Superiore. In the top range, we liked 2005 Riserva
Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2007 and 1999 Sassorosso Valtellina
Superiore. We also enjoyed the excellent and very elegant 2007
Sfursat 5 Stelle - powerful, fruity and concentrated, worthy of
certain Burgundy Pinot Noirs. Apart from the presence of red
fruit (cherry) or black fruit (blackberry), whose level of ripeness
depends on the wine, the unifying threads running through
Nino Negri wines are their mineral aromas and flavours
alongside liquorice, hints of menthol and balsamic, good
concentration and powerful and smooth tannins. Added to
this in the case of Sfursat are the olfactory and taste sensations
obtained by using dried grapes, which results in a higher level
of alcohol and an impressive complexity.
The Swiss Triacca winery also produces different types and
qualities of Nebbiolo red wines, including the interesting
2005 Sfursat Valtellina Superiore and the surprising dessert
wine 2009 Moscato del Presidente, so called because it was the
favourite of the former President of Italy, Carlo Azeglio
Ciampi. It is a lightly fortified red wine made from Moscato
Rosa (which is also cultivated in the regions of Friuli and
Trentino) and has a fruity and fresh bouquet and palate, with
the scent and taste of rose. It is available in limited quantities.
By Delphine Veissière
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Officially, the Denominación de Origen (DO) of Ribera del Duero was created on21 July 1982 by an organisation of wine producers determined to promote the qualityof their wines and to apply enforceable regulatory standards. In fact, winemaking inRibera del Duero dates back to the Roman era, over 2,000 years ago, as evidencedby the recent discovery of a 66-metre mosaic of Bacchus, the god of wine, unearthedat Baños de Valdearados.
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DO Ribera del Duero: A Spanish stand-out
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THE RIBERA DEL DUERO WINEGROWING REGION IS LOCATED ON A PLATEAUIN NORTHERN SPAIN ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF FROM MADRID
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wines were highly regarded and were exported at the height ofthe Spanish Empire during the 17th and 18th centuries. Morerecently, in 1864, the Fondation de la Bodega Vega Siciliadefined the quality standards for the region before the officialcreation of the DO over a century later.
GEOGRAPHYThe Ribera del Duero winegrowing region is located on aplateau in northern Spain about an hour and a half fromMadrid. It spreads over four provinces in Castilla y León:Burgos, Segovia, Soria and Valladolid. Ribera means ‘riverbank’;the region borders a horizontal stretch of the Duero River for150 kilometres (93 miles) from east to west, and extends 35kilometres (22 miles) from north to south.
In the Middle Ages, new vineyards were planted atvarious monasteries, including the Cistercian monasteryof Valbuena de Duero (the first to arrive in the region in
the 12th century), when the Benedictines of Cluny inBurgundy spurred a revival in the production of local wine.
Ribera’s underground cellars with their distinctive fireplaceswere constructed in the 13th century in the towns of theregion, where they still serve to protect wine from theextremes of the climate. Wine grew to become an importantfactor in the economic and cultural development of Ribera,facilitating trade with other regions in Spain and giving rise tothe first Spanish regulations concerning wine quality, theOrdinances of Castilla y León, in the 15th century. Ribera
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LARGEST CITIESAranda del Duero, Burgos, Peñafiel, Roa, San Esteban de Gormaz,
Segovia, Valladolid
CLIMATEThe unique climate of this region is perfectly suited to winegrowing -
particularly for red wines. Influenced by both the Mediterranean
and Continental climates, Ribera is marked by extremes. It
includes the highest average altitude in Europe for red grape
varieties and has hot summers, cold winters, a short growing season,
little rainfall and diverse types of soil.
Combined, these conditions result in the production ofexcellent wines. The short, hot summers have daily tempera-tures ranging from 10-15.5°C (50-60°F) at night to over38°C (100°F) during the day. Rapid daily temperature fluctu-ations during the growing season permit the grapes to ripenin ideal health during the day and allow balanced acidityand aromatic complexity to develop during the night. Themoderate to low level of rainfall, averaging about 40 cm (16
inches) a year, with very limited summer rainfall, also contributes
to ideal ripening conditions.
On average, the vineyards of Ribera grow at about 760-850 metres
(2,500-2,800 feet) above sea level, although some vineyards are
found above 945 metres (3,100 feet). The soil conditions are virtually
perfect for viticulture, and include a range of soil types, from the
riverbanks to the steepest slopes. The soils nearest the river are alluvial,
consisting of clay and reddish sand. As the altitude increases, alter-
nate layers of chalk, shale and limestone are a notable characteristic;
there are several exceptional vineyards on sites with chalk soils.
TEMPLE OF TEMPRANILLOThe main grape variety in Ribera is Tempranillo, which is known
locally as Tinto Fino or Tinta del País. Tempranillo is an early-ripening
variety (in Spanish, temprano means ”early”) that ideally suits the
short growing season and the extreme conditions of the region.
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BODEGAS IMPERIALES IS A MAJORPLAYER IN DO RIBERA DEL DUERO
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PENAFIEL CASTLE SERVED AS A PALACE AND PRISON, BEFORE 1917. NOW OWNED BYTHE MAYOR OF PEÑAFIEL, IT IS OPEN TO VISITORS AND HOUSES A WINE MUSEUM
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This combination of power and elegance is the hallmark ofTempranillo from Ribera del Duero and has been a major contributorto its excellent international reputation.
MAIN GRAPE VARIETIESReds: Tempranillo (also known as Tinto Fino and Tinta del País) makesup 95% of all production; Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 1%;Merlot, Grenache (Garnacha Tinta) and Malbec together make upless than1%.
Whites: Albillo makes up 3% of all production.
RIBERA WINESDO Ribera del Duero implements rigorous quality controlmeasures. During the harvest, an inspector is assigned to eachbodega by the Regulating Council of DO Ribera del Duero, thebody that supervises all aspects of the winegrowing and winemakingprocesses in the DO.
The council regulates the origin of the grapes, the varieties usedand in what percentages, the growing methods of the vineyard -including the pruning technique, the density of the yield, thevinification, the level of alcohol and the labelling of the bottle.In practice, the wineries always surpass the council’s establishedstandards in their search for quality.
Widely planted and much loved in Spain, Tempranillo results in
well-balanced red wines, with good colour and acidity, and a fresh
and fruity bouquet of appealing aromas such as black plum,
cherry and liquorice.
DO Ribera del Duero: A Spanish stand-out
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 93
CATEGORIES OF WINE PRODUCEDJoven, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva and Rosado
• Joven:wines that have not been matured in oak casks (joven means
”young” in Spanish). However, ”Joven Roble” and ”Joven Barrica”
are interchangeable terms that refer to wines that have been aged
for a short period of three to six months in oak barrels, and bottled
not long after being harvested. All the wines with this classification
are fruity, lively and best drunk when young.
• Crianza:wines that have been aged for two years, spending a minimum of
twelve months in oak barrels (crianza means ”aged” in Spanish).
These wines can be released after the 1st of October, two years
after being harvested. They have well-balanced tannins and a
full-bodied and smooth mouth feel.
• Reserva:wines that have been aged for three years, spending a minimum of
twelve months in oak barrels. These wines cannot be put on the market
until after the 1st of October, three years after being harvested. After
twelve months in oak barrels, Reserva wines are bottled and then
stored in the bodega’s wine cellar, producing wines that are ready
to drink as soon as they are on the market. They are elegant,
sumptuous and intense, with a long and persistent finish.
• Gran Reserva:wines of exceptional quality, aged for at least 60 months, spending a
minimum of 24 months in oak barrels, followed by a period of
bottle aging. The wines are authorised to be released after the 1st
of October, five years after being harvested. After 24 months in
oak barrels, Gran Reserva wines are bottled and then stored in the
bodega’s wine cellar. They are complex, structured and very well
balanced, with remarkable vitality.
• Rosado:or rosé wines, are fermented without the grape skins and are available
soon after harvest.
PRODUCTIONMaximum yield: 7,000 kilogrammes/hectare (3.1 tonnes/hectare)
Average yield over the last 22 years:3,600 kilogrammes/hectare (1.6 tonnes/hectare)
Vineyard area: 20,500 hectares Total wineries (2008): 249Average annual production: 70,302,378 kilogrammes of grapes
MAJOR WINERIESVega Sicilia, Dominio de Pingus, Mauro, Bodega Imperiales
(Abadia de San Quirce), Prado Rey, Aalto, Telmo Rodríguez,
Bodega Vizcarra Ramos.
Christophe ChapillonZaragoza, Spain
OUR PICKSThese wines were tasted at theFenavin Spanish Wine Fair
in Ciudad Real, 10-12 May 2011
91/100 Castillo de Mendoza Reserva (TINTO, 2005)Grape variety: TempranilloAppellation: DOCa RiojaNose of small black fruits. A firm and concentrated palate of very ripefruit; tannins are present, but the balance is good. The finish is a bit firm.
90/100 Marqués de Griñón (TINTO, 2006)Grape variety: Petit VerdotAppellation: VP Dominio de ValdepusaNose of wet soil. A sweetish palate of fruit, with a rather concentratedfinish and a hint of firmness.
90/100 Juan Gil 12 Meses (TINTO, 2009)Grape variety: MonastrellAppellation: DO JumillaPrice: 5-10 eurosClean nose of red fruit with hints of black fruit. On the palate, the fruit isslightly overripe, but retains good concentration, with firm but pleasanttannins. The finish is more powerful.
89/100 Arrayán Selección (TINTO, 2007)Grape varieties: Syrah, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet SauvignonAppellation: DO MéntridaPrice: 2-5 eurosA firm, fruity, tannic attack. The blend of varieties makes the aftertasteappealingly fruity.
88/100 Abadía Retuerta Selección Especial (TINTO, 2008)Grape varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo (Cencibel)Appellation: VT Castilla y LeónPrice: 5-10 eurosNose of red fruit, still slightly closed. On the palate, the attack is swee-tish, evolving to firmer fruit. Pleasant.
88/100 Clan Barrica 10 Meses (TINTO, 2007)Grape variety: Prieto PicudoAppellation: VT Castilla y LeónPrice: 5-10 eurosA rather firm palate of slightly overripe fruit that gives an impression ofheat. The oak is still too present; merits a wait.
88/100 L’Ame Malbec (TINTO, 2008)Grape varieties: Borba, Albillo, Albilla, Pardina, MalbecAppellation: VT CastillaPrice: 5-10 eurosNose of red fruit, still slightly closed. The palate is smooth, simple andpleasant, without a big personality. Slight aftertaste.
88/100 Uva Nocturna 6 Meses (TINTO, 2007)Grape variety: GarnachaAppellation: VT Ribera del Gállego-Cinco VillasPrice: 5-10 eurosAn oaky attack, with a firm evolution followed by fruit. However, overall,the palate is rather light and the oak flavour remains very present.
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WINE AND FOOD
At the age of 10, Gilles Goujon was deeply affected by the death of his father - as a result,he rejected the world of adults. Later in life, he chose to train as a chef, a profession forwhich he revealed an unexpected talent. Not content to work side by side with some ofFrance’s best chefs, Goujon decided to go out on his own, and in 1992 created a restaurantin Fontjoncouse in Languedoc-Roussillon. Today, the rocky start of this enterprise is longforgotten, replaced by awards ranging from Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman inFrance) in 1996, his first Michelin star in 1997, a second in 2001, and the ultimate recognition,his third Michelin star, in 2010. Respect!
Gilles Goujon: collecting stars
Above all, Gilles Goujon is passionate: he loves life,
other people and, naturally, food. A chef has to enjoy
sharing, and Goujon doesn’t scrimp on singing the
praises of his team. He is very aware that awards are earned by a
team of which the chef is the captain.
Nonetheless, a chef is a chef, and Goujon is an exemplary case.
Everything must be perfectly organised - and if it isn’t, he will
say something about it. His rants in the kitchen reflect his
desire for perfection and his limitless love for French cuisine,
which for him represents the most creative style of cooking, and
equally benefits from having the most hindsight. As he asserts
without mincing his words, ”We shouldn’t have to accept criticism
from other countries. In fact, Paul Bocuse got French chefs out
of their kitchens, their restaurants, their cities and their country.
Thanks to him, cooking has become more accessible, and chefs
from France and around the world have fallen in behind him.
So it’s difficult to listen to the criticism we hear today.”
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr
Gilles Goujon: collecting stars
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 95
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
For his part, he didn’t have a foolproof plan when he came to
Fontjoncouse in 1992. He visited an auberge that he found
tempting, even if the previous establishment had just gone out
of business and some building work was required. The premises
belonged to the town hall, the rent was low and there were no
major overheads such as personnel to consider. He told himself
that things would work out. The day the restaurant opened, the local
press reported that around 12 people came for lunch. A modest start.
FROM ZERO DINERS TO THREE STARSThe following weeks and months were even less reassuring; the
restaurant was empty every evening, despite Gilles and his wife
Marie-Christine lighting it up like the château of Versailles to try
to lure in the locals. The rare customers who came through the
door were treated like kings, with Goujon eager to prove the
quality of his cuisine. It would take two years of sacrifice and
unwavering courage before the first signs of change came in
1994. Then, by participating in the French television programme
Savoir Plus in 1995, the chef established his reputation, and soon
after he obtained the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France (1996),
followed by his first Michelin star (1997). Gilles Goujon found
himself back on track, and would only move forward from there,
winning a second star in 2001 and a third in 2010.
We’ll leave it to him to conclude: ”I believe that we have never
eaten so well in France as today. Many talented young chefs are
starting their own restaurants and doing exceptional work. The
Michelin Guide has understood this and is increasingly taking
note of small establishments with impressive savoir-faire. Today,
we’re seeing the incredible effect of the ”food movement”, and
our profession is among the most dynamic. There are always new
challenges to face, which leads me to believe that we have not yet
reached the apogee of culinary art, there are still so many things
to achieve. The advice I would give to young chefs is to keep the
faith, even when things get difficult, and not to give up. As for
me, I have been lucky in having a team behind me that always
believed in what I was doing and a wife who has supported me
unconditionally.”
Gilbert & GaillardSee the recipe and the wine list on pages 96 and 97
RESTAURANT GILLES GOUJON - AUBERGE DU VIEUX PUITS
96 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
WINE AND FOOD
RECIPE
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Serve with a good white wine from Corbières: for example, Ollieux Romanis or La Voulte Gasparets
Ingredients• 8 large Palamós prawns
• 400 g crushed dried tomatoes
• 10 cl reduced tomato juice
• 100 g parmesan crumble
• 10 cl cream of shellfish
250 g HERB VINAIGRETTE:
• 5 cl lemon juice
• 100 g diced tomatoes
• 50 g chopped shallots
• 30 g diced lemon confit
• 150 g olive oil
• ½ bunch of fresh coriander
• ½ bunch of dill
• ½ bunch of chives
Mix the ingredients;
add salt and pepper
Method• Grill the prawns.• While they are cooking:
• Add a bed of crushed, warm dried tomatoes to the centre of a rectangular plate.• Sprinkle the parmesan crumble over the bed of tomatoes.• Draw a line of cream of shellfish and a line of reduced tomato juice across the
plate; place small domes of vinaigrette in each corner.• Remove the tails from the prawns and place them on the tomato crumble.• Garnish with several herb sprigs.
Note: At L’Auberge du Vieux Puits, this dish is accompanied by a tomato sorbet anda circular apple straw.
Barely cooked Palamós prawns on a bed of parmesancrumble and Marmande tomatoes, with an herbvinaigrette of olive oil and lemon confit.
Gilles Goujon: collecting stars
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 97
RESTAURANT GILLES GOUJON
AUBERGE DU VIEUX PUITS
5, Av St Victor - 11360 Fontjoncouse - FranceTel. +33 (0)4 68 44 07 37 - www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr
Carrus farm egg with black truffle on a purée of mushrooms and Italian white truffles, warm briochine and cappuccino
THE WINELIST
Before becoming headsommelier at L'Aubergedu Vieux Puits, FrédéricSénéchal worked in severalprestigious Parisianrestaurants. He trained as
a sommelier at the Ledoyen in Paris, has workedwith the chef Ghislaine Arabian, and also spenttime at the restaurants Laurent and Trianon Palace,climbing the ladder with each move. He has beenat L'Auberge since March 2007.
His wine list offers an amazing journey aroundLanguedoc-Roussillon, with more good bottles inall three colours than you can taste. For devoteesof Bordeaux wines, the best are all available, aswell as the most prestigious Champagnes. And ifyou really want to go mad, a 1989 Romanée-Conti ispatiently waiting for you!
Frédéric Sénéchal
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“IT'S BEEN TWO YEARS NOW THAT EVERYTHING AT AVONDALE IS IN HARMONY”
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WINE GROWER PORTRAITS
www.avondalewine.co.za
Avondale proprietor Johnathan Grieve has a unique “bio-logical”approach to making organic wine in the Klein Drakenstein area.
With his fine arts background and a fascination for
the interaction between science and nature, 34
year-old South African Johnathan Grieve is no
ordinary wine producer. Applying a knowledge of organic and
biodynamic farming principles at Avondale, he crafts a range of
nature-friendly wines that have earned him respect, both locally
and abroad.
Growing up on a smallholding near Cape Town, Johnathan
started farming at an early age, planting and growing vegetables
that he sold to friends and family. He spent his holidays working
at the family health food business founded by his grand parents,
and developed an interest in a balanced approach to life.
He spent four years studying fine art (his sculptures and paintings
decorate the main buildings), but when his parents bought
Avondale in 1999, Johnathan jumped in and began working as
an apprentice viticulturist. He felt that the conventional farming
methods employed at the estate until that time were inadequate -
the land was simply not alive enough to encourage great
wines - and so he began experimenting with different farming
methods. This led to the development of Avondale's unique
“bio-logic” farming approach, combining organic and biodynamic
principles with modern science to put life back into the soil.
All aspects of the natural environment are taken into account,from the tiniest microbes in the soil to the position of specificstar clusters in the night sky; the entire farm is viewed as aliving system that has to be in total equilibrium to supportand produce balanced vines, grapes and wine. No chemicalsare used. Pests and diseases are addressed using natural remediessuch as ladybugs and natural bacterias, while snails are kept incheck by a squad of Peking ducks: “we want nature to do thework for us,” says Johnthan, whose estate has been certifiedorganic since 2001.
Johnathan Grieve: South Africancreator of nature-friendly wines
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 99
Johnathan Grieve: South African creator of nature-friendly wines
Avondale's motto, Terra Est Vita, means “soil is life”: itencapsulates Johnathan's view of his estate as a dynamicliving system where soil, water and energy, plants, animalsand people are all part of a complex network of relationships,interconnected and interdependent. “For the land and thebusiness to thrive, every aspect of our living system must alsothrive; in everything we do, we uphold the key principle oflife, to constantly create conditions conducive to more life,”he explains; “it's been two years now that everything atAvondale is in harmony.”
This harmony is evident: visitors are greeted by a riot of colourprovided by a stunning variety of ultra-healthy plants, shrubs,bushes and flowers grown around the attractive farm buildings.The vineyards are home to cover crops such as lupins, wildsage and clover, while 20 pairs of barn owls (important forkeeping down snakes and rodents) breed in houses madefrom old barrels, situated around the vineyard amongst theeucalyptus trees.
The estate's 100 hectares of vines are planted in one-hectareblocks, matching soil types to grape varieties, and every block
is managed individually, then vinified separately and slowly(6 - 8 months fermentation is standard) in an ultra-modern,500-ton capacity cellar built deep in a dry riverbed, where gravity-flow ensures that grapes are moved with minimum mechanicalintervention. Finally, the individual parts are brought togetherat blending stage to create Avondale's unique range of winesthat are low in sulphur (less than half the norm), but full ofvitality and energy.
To learn more about Johnathan's vision, visit his blog atwww.biologicwine.co.za
Louise Hurren
”WHEN MY FAMILY ACQUIRED AVONDALE IN 1997, WE HAD A DREAM THAT ONE DAY WE WOULD MAKE PREMIUM QUALITY WINES”
AVONDALEJOHNATHAN GRIEVE
Klein Drakenstein - Paarl - South AfricaPo Box 602 - Paarl South - 7624
Tel. +27 (0)21 863 1976 www.avondalewine.co.za
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GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 101
ORGANIC NEWS
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This question in fact depends on several others: is an organic wine produced inan identical way to a non-organic wine? If so, there is no reason that there shouldbe a difference in its ability to age. Does lack of sulfites, or less sulfites, have animpact on the lifespan of a bottle of wine? If the wine is microbiologically stable,aging should not be affected. As the subject requires a detailed analysis ratherthan a simple answer, we refer to an expert in the matter, Jean Natoli.
Before we look at whether or not organic wines age well,
it is important to define what we mean by ”ageing” in
reference to wine. Some wine labels carry the message
”aged in oak”, which I always find jarring, because in my mind,
wine is not aged in barrels, but matured. Although the terms are
often used synonymously, the stage of elaboration that takes place
after fermentation and before bottling focuses on bringing out the
wine’s qualities to their best advantage. In French, the term is
élevage, which literally means ”raising” or ”bringing up”. Strictly
speaking, ”to age” is to deteriorate, whereas ”to mature” is to be in
a process of development. The idea behind élevage is to improve
the wine, not to diminish it. Given this definition, we can discuss
the various ways that winemakers mature their wines: in stainless
steel tanks, in new or old oak barrels, in bottles, with reducing
agents, using micro-oxidation, and so on. So we can see that what
”maturing” a wine actually means depends on the winemaker and
the wine they wish to make. In my opinion, this distinction seems
important.
With that said, let’s get back to the initial question, which is more
specifically about the development of organic wine once it is
bottled and purchased by the consumer. For those who have read
my previous articles, you will know that making organic wine
imposes certain constraints on the winemaker that can have a
critical impact on the outcome. If these requirements are met
when the wine is bottled - that is, it has analytical stability, a
balanced taste, the desired level of concentration and volatile
acidity, a healthy microbial state, and so on - there is no reason
that a quality organic wine should age any differently than a fine
conventional wine.
By definition, once bottled, a well-produced wine should be
protected from oxygen, its biggest enemy (apart from certain
Do organic wines age well?
Jean Natoli
THIS ORGANIC CHEVERNY HASEXCELLENT ABILITY TO AGE
CHAMPAGNE91/100 Champagne Couche Père & Fils
Brut Sensation 1995 60.00 €
LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLONRivesaltes A.C.
93/100 Château Rombeau Ambré - 50 cl 7.00 €Vin de Pays de l'Hérault
92/100 Domaine Virgile Joly Virgile 2005 24.00 €Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
91/100 Domaine de Rancy Mourvèdre 2009 10.00 €
LOIRE VALLEYChinon A.C.
90/100 Domaine de Noiré Caractère 2008 10.50 €Savennières A.C.
90/100 Closel - Château des Vaults La Jalousie 2009 12.00 €
PROVENCECoteaux Varois en Provence A.C.
91/100 Domaine du Deffends Champs de la Truffière 2007 11.80 €
RHÔNE VALLEYChâteauneuf du Pape A.C.
94/100 Domaine Galévan Vintage 2009 25.00 €93/100 Clos Saint Pierre Urbi 2009 25.00 €
SOUTH-WESTCahors A.C.
93/100 Château Eugénie Haute Collection 2008 20.00 €91/100 Mas del Périé La Roque 2009 12.00 €90/100 Château Haut-Monplaisir Pur Plaisir 2007 7.00 €Cognac A.C.
95/100 Famille Estève Très Vieille Petite Fine ChampagneRéserve de la Famille 65.00 €
OUR PICKS
specific wines such as Xérès sherry, or vin jaune and vin de voile,
which are wines matured under a film of yeast). On the other
hand, a wine of lesser quality that is insufficiently
microbiologically stable or is unprotected during the bottling
process could start to deteriorate relatively quickly. Of course, this
decline in quality is not exclusive to organic wines.
So the true response to the question of whether an organic wineages well essentially depends on the winemaker and the wine.
Only objectively tasting a well-chosen aged wine will give the endconsumer the answer. Another worthwhile question we couldpose might be, ”Why wait, sometimes a very long time, beforedrinking a wine?” I confess that this is often my feeling; apart fromthe excitement we might experience drinking a vintage wine, toomany wines are drunk too late, when they are no longer at theirbest. And that’s often a pity!
Jean NatoliConsultant oenologist and organic winemaker
President of Vino Latino
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ALSACEAlsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer A.C.92/100 Sparr Tradition Sporen 2009 15.00 €90/100 Frédéric Mallo & fils Rosacker
Vendanges Tardives - 50 cl 2007 11.50 €Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris A.C.94/100 Domaine Pierre Frick Vorbourg
Vendanges Tardives 2008 19.10 €Alsace Grand Cru Riesling A.C.95/100 Domaine Sylvie Spielmann Kanzlerberg 2006 17.50 €91/100 Kuentz-Bas Pfersigberg - Trois Châteaux 2008 18.10 €
BORDEAUXSaint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C.92/100 Château Fonroque Vintage 2008 24.00 €91/100 Château Fonplégade Vintage 2008 40.00 €
BOURGOGNEChablis Grand Cru A.C.95/100 Domaine Christian Moreau
Père et Fils Les Clos 2009 24.00 €Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru A.C.94/100 Aegerter Jean-Luc & Paul Vintage 2008 140.00 €93/100 Château Philippe-le-Hardi Vintage 2008 58.00 €Corton Charlemagne Grand cru A.C.96/100 Domaine Bertagna Vintage 2009 88.00 €Gevrey-Chambertin A.C.91/100 Domaine Philippe Leclerc
1er Cru la Combe aux Moines 2008 39.00 €Meursault A.C.96/100 Guy Bocard 1er Cru Charmes 2008 35.00 €94/100 Domaine Rougeot 1er Cru Charmes 2009 35.00 €90/100 Domaine Rougeot Monatine 2009 19.00 €
Here is our selection of French organic wines (and wines from wineriesin the process of conversion) that received the best scores in our recenttastings (at least 90/100). They are categorised by winegrowing region,by appellation and by score. You can also refer to our tasting notes onour website www.gilbertgaillard.com or now on your smartphone.
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Port and Madeira,those fortifiedwines from
Portugal, are reveredaround the world for theirdistinctive character. Thebreadth of styles of bothPort and Madeira issurprising; each is producedin a different way, linkedto their different histories.One of the most extra-ordinary aspects ofthese wines, aside fromtheir legendary tastes, isthat they can be drunkindefinitely. A 200-year-oldMadeira or Port can beexceptional, which putsthese wines in a league oftheir own. Savouring avery old wine always
conjures reflection upon the history through which the wine haslived, and Port and Madeira wines take one further back in timethan any others can.
In 1754, the agents for the Association of Port Wine Shipperswrote of Port: “It should feel like liquid fire in thestomach…it should burn like inflamed gunpowder… shouldhave the tint of ink… it should be like the sugar of Brazil insweetness and the spices of India in aromatic flavour,” andcenturies later, this colourful description still holds true.Although Port production and trade was dominated by theBritish for a couple of centuries, the Portuguese regained controlof the Port-producing region. One can still taste a difference instyles between the British and Portuguese estates; the style ofBritish Port is bigger, sweeter and more fruit-driven, while thePortuguese estates produce more reserved, elegant wines.There are not many strict rules about how to produce Port,which allows for varying styles, and both British andPortuguese estates are ranked among the top producers.
PHILIPPE ROUX IS A SPECIALIST IN THE NICHE MARKET OF RARE VINTAGES
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WINE QUOTATIONS
Ports and Madeiras: Mythicalwines that live (almost) forever
First produced in the mid-15th century, Madeira wines havebeen exported around the world ever since. On the long journeysby ship to the Far East and Australia, the wine in wooden barrelsslowly heated up to around 113˚ F (45˚ C), and gently cooledback down. It was only after a few unsold barrels came back tothe winemakers on the island of Madeira that they realisedthat this slow heating process gave a particularly unique flavour tothe wine. They began to mimic this heating process duringthe ageing to obtain the unique taste, and this heating of thewine remains part of the Madeira winemaking traditiontoday. There are a variety of styles of Madeira thanks to differentgrape varieties, blending from different vintages, and thenumber of years in cask. Madeiras range from pale andmedium-dry to honey sweet.
There are so many styles and personalities of Port and Madeirato explore, more than you may think: from large-structuredand fruity to lighter and refined.
Philippe Roux
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Ports and Madeiras: Mythical wines that live (almost) forever
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 105
PORTS AND MADEIRAS
YEAR CHÂTEAU APPELLATION RANK VOL PRICE VAT EXCL.
1845 MADEIRA BUAL COSSART GORDON Madeira 0.75 l 1 961.54
1863 BLANDY Malmsey Solera Madeira 0.75 l 2 869.57
1880 BORGES H.M. Malmsey Solera Madeira 0.75 l 7 811.04
1912 CONSTANTINO Porto 0.75 l 1 739.97
1918 SOALHEIRA Porto 0.75 l 1 693.14
1920 COSSART GORDON Madeira 0.75 l 9 660.54
OLIVEIRAS Reserva Bastardo Madeira 0.75 l 4 581.10
1940 GOMES DA CONCEICAO (LUIS) Madeira 0.75 l 1 250.00
1944 ADEGA Porto 0.75 l 1 313.55
1951 BURMESTER Colheita Porto 0.75 l 3 300.1
1957 NIEPOORT Colheita Porto 0.75 l 2 215.72
1963 NIEPOORT Vintage Porto 0.75 l 3 204.85
1965 SOUZA GUEDES Porto 0.75 l 6 129.60
Please contact us for further information: www.gilbertgaillard.com
OUTSTANDING PORT VINTAGES OF THE 19TH AND 20TH CENTURIES
19TH CENTURY1811 1834 1847 1863 1870 1878 1884
20TH CENTURY1900 1908 1912 1927 1931 1935 1945 1955 1963 1966 1970 1977 2000
OUTSTANDING MADEIRA VINTAGES OF THE 19TH AND 20TH CENTURIES
19TH CENTURY1802 1808 1822 1830 1802 1808 1822 1830 1836 1846 1862 1868
20TH CENTURY1900 1901 1910 1936 1931
From Michael Broadbent’s Vintage Wine
Pruning is an essential part of caring for grapevines. It affects the sizeand shape of the vines, the quantity of grapes produced (and thus theyield per hectare) and plays an important role in the quality of the fruit.
Pruning is a delicate operation that requires both experienceand a skilled hand. Previously carried out with a billhook orpruning knife, today’s winegrowers use hand or pneumaticclippers. In recent years, studies have been looking at how todesign vine-pruning robots, but the complexity of the issues tobe resolved makes their development particularly problematic.Clippers operated by hand are not likely to be phased out anytime soon.
PRUNING METHODSOn the face of it, one might think that the more a vine ispruned back, the lower its yield and the better quality thegrape. Yet meteorological factors are also decisive; in certaincases, they have an even greater influence on the quality of thefruit than the yield per hectare. So pruning must be adapted togrowing conditions.
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What’s the point of pruning?
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Ariginally, the grapevine was a wild plant: a creeperof the genus Vitis in the family Vitaceae. Althoughit was domesticated thousands of years ago, left to
its natural devices, the vine tends to produce more woodthan fruit.
TAMING THE VINETo counter this effect, a winegrower has to prune his or hervines. Indeed, this is one of the most important steps inwinegrowing, as it has such a critical influence on the qualityof the grapes. Pruning takes place in winter when the vine isdormant. At the beginning of the winter, the vines are pre-pruned, followed by winter pruning. The latter involves cuttingback the number of branches and training the fruit-producingcanes so that those that remain are more robust, resulting inlarger leaves and bigger grapes.
QUALITY FACTORS
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 107
There are many different ways to prune grapevines, but thethree basic styles are spur pruning, cane pruning or a mix of thetwo methods. In spur pruning, the spurs on the vine aretrimmed back to two or three buds. Cane pruning involvesleaving long canes with more than three or four buds on eachside of the trunk. Mixed spur and cane pruning consists ofleaving both spurs and canes on the stem. The pruningmethod selected by a winegrower depends on the grape variety,the terrain and the soil, as well as the growing and harvestingmethods (manual or mechanical) practiced.
TRELLISING OR HEAD-TRAININGIn Bordeaux and Burgundy, the vines are grown on trellises(that is, the canes are trained along wires) using the Guyotcane-pruning system, which involves preserving only one caneon each side of the trunk and getting rid of the rest. InBeaujolais and Languedoc-Roussillon, head training was longpreferred. In this method, vines are not trained on a trellis orother system of support, but one or two buds are left on eachof three canes that droop in all directions from the crown ofthe trunk, resulting in a growth shaped a bit like a goblet. InAustralia, these are known as ”bush vines”. However, themechanisation of winegrowing and harvesting, as well as theintroduction of grape varieties from other regions (such asMerlot and Cabernet Sauvignon), have increasingly ledLanguedoc winegrowers to adopt trellising and to modify theirpruning methods to Guyot, Cordon de Royat or Lyre systems.
OTHER PRUNING METHODSThe Mâconnais style of pruning is to bend two long canes sothey form an arc around the vine stem. In Alsace, the DoubleGuyot system (each vine has two canes and two spurs, trainedin opposite directions) is employed on a higher trunk. Twocanes are preserved, each of which has eight to twelve buds. To
PRUNING IS ONE OF THE MOSTIMPORTANT STEPS IN WINEGROWING
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keep yields low, many winegrowers in Alsace decrease thenumber of buds by removing them.
NEW WORLD ICONOCLASTS Winegrowers in North America, South Africa, Australia andNew Zealand have developed pruning methods adaptedspecifically to their terroirs. The richer soils and highertemperatures meant that using European techniques resultedin abundant harvests, but the grapes were of mediocre quality.This led pragmatic American and Australian winegrowers toexperiment with new methods, for example, Lyre pruning.
Pruning is practiced by winegrowers around the world, takinga variety of forms from one region or country to another.Nonetheless, the universal aim is to find the method mostsuitable for the growing conditions, the grape variety and thelocal climate. Gilbert & Gaillard
Don’t count on Woody Allen to celebrate his 76th birthday on December1st: no drum rolls, no clarinet trills, thank you. The American film geniusdoesn’t want to blow out any candles. However, if you want to offer hima French grand cru, he won’t say no.
108 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
STARS & WINE
www.gilbertgaillard.com
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Your new film Midnight in Paris tells thestory of a self-doubting writer who climbsinto an old Peugeot at midnight and sud-denly finds himself in the 1920s. At various”Roaring Twenties” parties, he meets thepainters, authors and filmmakers he hasalways admired: Picasso, Hemingway,Buñuel, Dali... Is there one era from the pastthat appeals to you more than any other? Everyone dreams about going back intime - nostalgia is a feeling with incredibleforce. I think it’s also a way to focus onbeautiful things and deny what’s in
front of you. When you take refuge inthe past, you escape the reality of thepresent. It’s always very nice to thinkthat the Belle Epoque or the RoaringTwenties were a carefree time, withhorses and shiny carriages, beautifulwomen wearing raw silk, etcetera. Ofcourse, you think of Gigi and Maxim’s,of drinking Champagne, of great wines.But you forget an important point: theconditions of life were very differentfrom today, and a lot more uncomfor-table. There was no Novocaine when
you went to the dentist, and definitelyno air conditioning! So I’m not tempted totravel back in time. Or maybe just forone day - with a guarantee of being ableto return to the 21st century! And back tothe same place I left, please. I wouldn’twant to find myself in a basement inDarfur or in a cave with the Taliban!
Is it true that you can only write in theurban jungle of New York while drinkingtea? Yes! Only green tea! My wife and I, wedrink wagonloads. Drinking green teais purifying. It’s a little like cleaningeach of your cells with a high-pressurehose! Inevitably it’s very good for you.I couldn’t live without the noises ofthis city. I have slept in the country,listening to the silence and the occasionalcricket or toad. It was unbearable; myears aren’t used to that kind of sound!It’s too peaceful in the country. It’s nicefor half an hour, an hour at the most,but longer than that and I get nervousand want to go back to New York. I likehearing the cars honking in trafficjams, the sirens of fire trucks trying tomake their way through the traffic andthe jackhammers in the background.Basically, there needs to be excitement,something going on. New York is anepileptic centrifuge and I like that! Justgo to Wazoo Falls in Mississippi andyou’ll see what I mean!
Frank Rousseau with Woody Al len
Woody Allen: "Never a dinnerserved without wine”
STARS & WINE
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 109
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
On what occasions do you drink wine? Never at breakfast! But there’s never adinner served without wine. A meal withoutwine is like a woman without lipstick; it’sjust essential.
What appeals to you about France, andespecially Paris?The streets! I love walking around for hoursand getting lost. There is always somethinginteresting to see in the streets of Paris. It’s acontinual free show: of life! Paris is like anactress, a character in her own right, whonever puts on the same face. I also love thebistros. You can meet really great peoplethere, who are capable of discoursing forhours over pâté and a glass of wine.
What is your favourite French wine? I’m partial to La Tâche, an excellentBurgundy. And also Richebourg andRomanée-Conti Grands Echezeaux andChâteau Lafite … At one time in my life, thebiggest bills I had to pay were for bottles ofwine that cost me a fortune!
Where will your next film be set? In Rome - another city that has greatwine. I’m looking forward to directing
another local vintage: Roberto Benigni!His film Life is Beautiful moved me totears. Needless to say, Italy is also acountry with an impressive range ofwines. I will nevertheless ask my assis-tants to curb my wine enthusiasm! Ihave a film budget to adhere to. I don’twant to go overboard and end up rollingaround under the table!
Will you request the clarinet - an instrumentthat you have mastered perfectly - to beplayed at your funeral?The only thing I ask is that the guyplays in tune! There’s nothing worsethan waking the dead! I’ve beenplaying the clarinet since I was 15.Gene ‘Honey Bear’ Sedric, who playedwith the great Fats Waller, taught methe basics. For over 20 years I’ve playedwith a Rico Royal 5, a bamboo reedthat produces a full sound. A soundthat Boris Vian -also a big wine lover -would probably have appreciated.
Interview in New York by
Frank ROUSSEAU
110 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
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Cameron Diaz. A name you know, a face you can’t forget; a destiny written
in the stars. It only took her a few years to rise to the highest echelons of
Hollywood. Is it any wonder that Jim Carrey didn’t need any special effects
to make his eyes bug out when he sees her in The Mask? But sorry to tell
you guys, the only thing that Cameron can’t resist is Burgundy!
Do you drink only French wines?My father was Cuban and my mother wasfrom a German background. I also havesome Cherokee blood. So I’m a real ethnicmix, which makes me interested in othercountries, other ways of looking at theworld. Since I’ve travelled a lot, and I’m adiehard epicurean, I’ve had the chance toenjoy quite a few different wines. I have toadmit that Chilean wine can now take oncertain French wines. But the French have anincredible talent for putting a wine at centrestage and making it seem fantastic.
Is there a particular wine that transportsyou? I’ve never been disappointed by a Gevrey-Chambertin! It has good structure and, formy taste, just the right amount of fruit andcharacter.
While we’re talking about wine, what aboutthe people who make it - have you met anywinemakers? Not in France, but I have in California!They’re passionate about what they do,friendly, and capable of spending hours andhours in order to achieve perfection and theright balance. I like the fact that they’repurists, and I appreciate their craftsmanshipin creating a vintage. Sometimes they giveyou the impression that they’re holding abottle of rare perfume! I love that world andthe sight of all the bottles perfectly lined up,as well as the ceremony that goes along withdrinking a premium wine. But the thing thatfascinates me the most is the production ofthe oak barrels. It’s like a good film, itliterally captivates me!
Interview in Los Angeles by Frank ROUSSEAU
live it up. At the time, I was a model, and Iremember a particularly spectacular benderthat I should tell you about. One night at aclub I met some other models - male andfemale - from Australia. Since they knew Iwas going to be coming to Australia for aphoto shoot, they came out with somethinglike, ”You can’t visit our country withoutbeing baptised!” Of course, the baptism inquestion consisted of downing as manyglasses of alcohol as humanly possible. Iknow it’s stupid, but, you know, I didn’twant to come across as chicken. Anyway, Istarted with glasses of Champagne, thenmoved on to margaritas, Bloody Marys,daiquiris, rum, and topped it off with a fewcans of beer! Then they dragged me to aJapanese restaurant where I vaguelyremember impressing the Japanese dinerspresent by knocking back litres of sake.They’d never seen anything like it. In theend, I passed out cold on the floor. Sincethat disaster, I’m more careful. Basically,when I go to a club with friends, I insist onbeing the designated driver responsible forgetting everyone home safely. But theexperience did make me realise that ifyou’re going to enjoy the good things in life,you might as well do it with a good wine!
Can you be more specific? Anyone who hasn’t tasted Burgundiesdoesn’t know the meaning of happiness!When I go to France, or, I should say, Paris,in the hotel where I’m staying, I alwaysmake friends with the sommelier. A fewmonths ago, when I was there to promote afilm, I had the chance to taste some amazingwines that I didn’t know at all. One of themhad a label that wasn’t much to look at, butGod, the wine was good. In short, appearancescan be deceiving…
In the movie What Happens in Vegas, yourcharacter parties to excess with AshtonKutcher. To put it directly, spirits were goingdown like water among the slot machines.I believe you yourself discovered thedangers and temptations of alcoholrelatively young? You got that right! When I was 20, I didn’tknow the difference between my knee andmy elbow. I confess that I always wanted to
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Cameron Diaz
Cameron Diaz: ”I’ve never beendisappointed by a Gevrey-Chambertin!”
PAUILLAC A.C.Château Pedesclaux 2010 89 90-93 n/aChâteau Croizet Bages 2010 87 n/a 87-88+Château Lynch Bages 2010 95 95-98 87-89Carruades de Lafite 2010 90 93-96 91-94Château Duhart Milon 2010 94 92-95 94-96Château Lafite Rothschild 2010 97 96-99 98-100Château d’Armailhac 2010 90 92-95 89-92Château Clerc Milon 2010 92 93-96 91-93Château Mouton Rothschild 2010 96 95-98 97-100Les Forts de Latour 2010 91 93-96 92-95Château Latour 2010 97 96-99 98-100
SAINT-ESTÈPHE A.C.Château Cos Labory 94 n/a 85-87Château Lafon Rochet 2010 90 90-93 92-94Château Montrose 2010 96 95-98 96-99+Château Cos d’Estournel 2010 94 92-95 95-97
MARGAUX A.C.Château Boyd Cantenac 2010 91 90-93 91-93Château Pouget 2010 89 89-92 n/aChâteau d’Issan 2010 96 89-92 94-96Château Rauzan Gassies 2010 93 89-91 90-93Château Rauzan Segla 2010 96 94-97 92-94Château Lascombes 2010 94 89-92 94-97
RECOMMENDED WINES
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 111
For a comprehensive overview of some great wines of Bordeaux vintage2010, compare our tasting notes with those of our well-known Americancompetitors.* *www.gilbertgaillard.com , *www.erobertparker.com and *www.winespectator.com
GILBERT & GAILLARDT H E W O R L D W I D E W I N E S I G N A T U R E
n/a = not available
WINE SCORES
95-100/100 an outstanding wine, when a great terroir
meets exceptional winemaking expertise
90-94/100 a superlative wine combining finesse,
complexity and remarkable winemaking
85-89/100 a wine of extremely high standard, which
we enjoyed for its typicity and character
80-84/100 a quality wine combining balance,
structure and neatness for
a pleasurable wine drinking experience
75-79/100 a wine deemed acceptable
70-74/100 a wine with defects, unacceptable
65-69/100 a wine with major defects, inadmissible
50-64/100 unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale
Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in
our publications.
Continued on page 113
RECOMMENDED WINES
GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011 113
Château Malartic La Gravière blanc 2010 91 90-93 n/aChâteau Couhins 2010 91 89-92 n/aChâteau Couhins Lurton 90 87-90 n/aChâteau Bouscaut 2010 91 n/a n/aDomaine de Chevalier 2010 99 92-95 92-94+Château Olivier 2010 93 89-92 90-92Château Latour Martillac 2010 92 89-92 90-92Château Fieuzal 2010 97 90-93 92-94Château Pape Clément 2010 92 92-95 93-96Château Smith Haut-Lafite 2010 95 92-95 n/a
PESSAC LÉOGNAN A.C. (RED WINES)La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2010 89 92-95 91-94Le Clarence de Haut Brion 2010 91 n/a 90-93Château La Mission Haut Brion 2010 95 95-98 98-100Château Haut Brion 2010 97 96-99 98-100Domaine de Chevalier 2010 92 92-95 91-93+Château Smith Haut Lafite 2010 95 n/a n/aChâteau Pape Clément 2010 92 93-96 93-95+Château Olivier 2010 90 88-91 86-88Château Malartic Lagravière 2010 90 91-94 92-94Château Latour Martillac 2010 88 89-92 90-92Château Haut Bailly 20210 95 n/a 95-97Château Couhins Lurton 89 97-90 n/aChâteau Couhins 2010 93 n/a n/aChâteau Carbonnieux 2010 92 89-92 91-93Château Fieuzal 2010 98 90-93 90-92Château Bouscaut 2010 90 n/a n/a
SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU A.C.(1ER GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS)
Château La Gaffelière 2010 98 94-97 91-93Château Magdelaine 2010 93 94-97 92-94Château Belair Monange 2010 95 94-97 95-97+Château Cheval Blanc 2010 97 95-98 96-98+Château Trottevieille 2010 91 n/a 89-91Château Canon 2010 94 91-94 92-94+Château Figeac 2010 98 93-96 n/aChâteau Beauséjour Bécot 2010 90 n/a n/aChâteau Pavie 2010 94 94-97 95-98+Château Pavie Macquin 2010 95 95-98 96-98+Château Beauséjour 2010 95 88-91 96-100Clos Fourtet 2010 96 92-95 95-97
SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU A.C.(GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS)
Château Grand Corbin 2010 91 88-91 NDChâteau Grand Corbin Despagne 2010 92 88-91 88-90
Château Cantenac Brown 2010 93 91-94 92-94+Château Kirwan 2010 95 90-93 90-93Château Desmirail 2010 91 n/a n/aChâteau Brane Cantenac 2010 98 90-93 93-96Château Prieuré Lichine 2010 94 89-92 92-94Château Malescot Saint-Exupery 2010 94 93-96 n/aChâteau Marquis de Terme 2010 90 91-94 n/aChâteau Ferrière 2010 91 89-92 85-87Pavillon de Margaux 2010 91 n/a 90-92Château Margaux 2010 97 96-99 96-98
SAINT-JULIEN A.C.Château Talbot 2010 92 90-93 91-93Château Saint-Pierre 2010 95 91-94 95-97+Château Léoville Poyferré 2010 99 92-95 95-98Château Léoville Barton 2010 100 94-97 91-93+Château Langoa Barton 2010 93 92-95 90-92Château Lagrange 2010 94 90-93 89-92Château Branaire Ducru 2010 96 92-95 93-95Château Beychevelle 2010 90 89-92 90-92
SAUTERNES AND BARSAC A.C.Château d’Arche 95 n/a 91-93Château Broustet 92 n/a n/aChâteau Caillou 94 n/a n/aChâteau Doisy-Daëne 98 92-95 92-94Château Doisy Védrines 98 92-95 91-93Château Filhot 93 91-94 n/aChâteau Lamothe 94 n/a 87-89Château Lamothe Guignard 96 n/a 89-91Château de Malle 2010 92 n/a 92-94Château de Myrat 2010 94 n/a 91-93Château Romer 2010 96 n/a n/aChâteau Suau 2010 91 n/a n/aChâteau Coutet 2010 94 93-96 93-95Château Guiraud 2010 92 92-95 91-93Clos Haut-Peyraguey 93 n/a 90-92Château Rabaud-Promis 2010 99 n/a 91-93Château de Rayne Vigneau 2010 91 n/a 89-91Château Rieussec 2010 91 93-96 90-92Château Sigalas Rabaud 2010 90 n/a 91-93Château La Tour Blanche 2010 93 93-96 92-94Château d’Yquem 2010 97 93-96 96-98
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN A.C. (WHITE WINES)Château la Mission Haut Brion blanc 2010 92 94-97 93-95+Château Haut-Brion blanc 2010 93 94-97 94-97Château Carbonnieux 2010 blanc 98 89-92 n/a
Continued on page 114
114 GILBERT & GAILLARD SUMMER 2011
RECOMMENDED WINES
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Château Chauvin 2010 89 n/a 89-91Château Grandes Murailles 2010 94 n/a 91-94Château La Couspaude 2010 88 90-93 91-93Château Corbin Michotte 2010 89 n/a n/aChâteau Bergat 2010 91 n/a n/aChâteau Yon Figeac 2010 88 n/a n/aChâteau Faurie de Souchard 89 89-92 n/aClos Saint Martin 2010 88 n/a 90-92Château Le Prieuré 2010 91 92-95 92-94Château Guadet 2010 87 n/a n/aChâteau Larcis Ducasse 2010 94 92-95 95-97Château Bellefont Belcier 2010 93 90-93 91-93Château La Clotte 2010 89 90-93 91-93Château La Tour Figeac 2010 89 90-93 88-90Château Cadet Piola 2010 88 n/a n/aChâteau Moulin du Cadet 2010 94 n/a 86-88Château La Dominique 2010 91 92-95 92-94Château Monbousquet 2010 93 92-95 91-93Château Pavie Decesse 2010 91 93-96 94-96Château Grand Corbin 2010 94 88-91 n/aChâteau Fonplégade 2010 93 88-91 92-94Couvent des Jacobins 2010 92 n/a n/aChâteau Franc Mayne 2010 92 89-92 90-92Château Laroze 2010 87 89-92 n/aChâteau Petit Faurie de Soutard 2010 86 n/a n/aChâteau Dassault 2010 90 88-91 89-91Château Laroque 2010 92 88-91 90-92Château Cap de Mourlin 2010 88 n/a n/aChâteau Haut Corbin 2010 92 88-91 n/aChâteau Ballestard La Tonnelle 2010 91 n/a n/aChâteau Larmande 2010 91 n/a 86-88Château La Serre 2010 88 92-95 86-88Château Fonroque 2010 94 n/a 88-90+Château Soutard 2010 94 n/a 85-88Château Villemaurine 2010 91 89-92 88-90Château Grand Pontet 2010 94 n/a 88-90Château La Tour du Pin 2010 92 n/a 90-93
GILBERT & GAILLARDT H E W O R L D W I D E W I N E S I G N A T U R E
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