fragrances and flavors

Fragrances, Flavors and Food Additives

What is fragrances?

Manufacturing of perfume, cologen and toilet water are collectively known as fragrances.

Perfume?

Perfume takes its name from Latin word perfumare, means to fill with smoke

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, objects, and living spaces a pleasant smell.

Basic classification of perfume is done using 3 main categories:

• The concentration/dilution level of the essential oils

• The family to which it belongs • The notes of the scent

CLASSIFICATION

Since essential oils are by nature incredibly concentrated, the mixture of essential oils is diluted with alcohol and/or with other neutral odor sources like water, coconut oil, wax or extracts of jojoba.

This is also done to cut the intensity of the scent.

C o n c e n t r a t i o n / D i l u t i o n :

The Origin/Source of Essential Oils Plants, animals and synthetic aromatic compounds make up the source ingredients for the perfume industry.

THE SOURCE

Plants Main source of aromatic compounds in perfume

production, primarily because of their relative ease of accessibility, and the great variety of odors among them.

The source of aromatic compounds can come from different parts of the plants.

Flowers like the rose and jasmine, Resin like frankincense, myrrh and pine, Bulbs like those of the iris plant, Bark like cinnamon, Seeds like Tonka bean, coriander, anise and

others, Roots like orrisroot.

The use of synthetic aromatic ingredients for perfume production goes back as far as the end of the 19th century. The progress made in the research of organic chemistry made it possible to develop new aromatic compounds that replaced, in many cases, the more expensive and rare natural aromatic sources, thus, allowing the manufacture of perfume for more reasonable prices.

Synthetic compounds

Many fruits that bring out tempting odors, such as cherries and strawberries, are surprisingly not used in the production of perfumes.

On the other hand, the leaves and peel of the fruit of citrus plants are often used in the perfume industry.

Fruits

Concentration levels

Perfume oil is necessarily diluted with a solvent because undiluted oils (natural or synthetic) contain high concentrations of volatile components that will likely result in allergic reactions and possibly injury when applied directly to skin or clothing.

Three Part Smell:You smell top/head notes within the

first 15 minutes of applying. These chemicals first evaporate off your skin. Ex: lemon, mint

 Heart/middle notes appear upto 3 to 4 hours. The chemicals creating these smells evaporate more slowly from your skin. Ex: rose, jasmine

Base notes stick stubbornly to your skin. You smell them within 5 to 8 hours of application. Ex: Musky, watery, mossy and woody chemicals.

Fine Fragrance Design

Give initial impact of fragranceProvide freshnessTypically citrus, green notes

Give initial impact of fragranceProvide freshnessTypically citrus, green notes

TOP NOTE

Give fragrance its characterand depthTypically spicy, leather, floral

Lasts 3-4 hours on skinMIDDLE NOTE

Fragrance foundationSubstantivityTypically amber, musk

Lasts >4 hours BACK (BASE) NOTE

Visualizing a Fragrance

Seduction/Freshness

Character

Long lasting memory

TOP NOTE

MIDDLE NOTE

BACK (BASE) NOTE

Vo

latility

Co

st

Visualizing a Fragrance

Formulation

The precise formulas of commercial perfumes are kept secret. Even if they were widely published, they would be dominated by such complex chemical procedures and ingredients that they would be of little use in providing a useful description of the experience of a scent.

Creation of acceptable fragrances

It require professional knowledge Use of available raw materials, both natural

and synthetic Use of a variety of new types of products

requiring fragrances Innovations in packing, e.g., aerosol sprays,

perfume powders, cream sachets, gels, lotions, and sticks

Perfume

A perfume is defined as any mixture of pleasantly odorous incorporated in suitable vehicle.

The finest modern perfumes are neither wholly synthetics nor completely natural to reduce the price, and to introduce fragrances into the enchanting gamut

at present available

Constituents of perfumes

Constituents of perfumes are: vehicles or solvents the fixatives, and odoriferous elements

Vehicles

Solvents used for blending and holding perfume materials e.g., ethyl alcohol and water at different ratios –

depend on solubility of the oils employed It is volatile nature and helps to project the

sent it carries It is fairly inert to solute and not too irritating

to human skin

Fixatives

Fixatives may be defined as substances of lower volatility of the perfume oils, which retard and even up the rate of evaporation of the various odorous constituents animal secretions resinous products essential oils, and synthetic chemicals

Odorous substances

Essential oils The essential oils may be defined as volatile,

odoriferous oils of vegetable origin

Essential oils

Essential oils may be defined as volatile, odoriferous oils of vegetable origin.

Essential oils are probably connected with metabolism, fertilization, or protection from enemies. It found in buds, flowers, leaves, bark, stems, fruits, seeds, wood, roots and rhizomes.

In some trees in oleoresinous exudates.

Essential oils

Essential oils are insoluble in water and soluble in organic solvents, although enough of the oil may dissolve in water to give an intense odor to the solution, e.g., rose water or orange flavor water.

Essential oils

The compounds occuring in essential oils are1. Esters – mainly of benzoic, salicylic, acetic and cinnamic acids2. Alcohols – Linalool, geraniol, citronellol, terpinol, menthol,

borneol3. Aldehydes – citral, citronellol, benzaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde,

vanillin4. Acids – benzoic, cinnamic, myristic, isovaleric in the free state5. Phenols – eugenol, thymol, carvacrol6. Ketones – carvone, menthone, pulegone, irone, camphor, methyl

nonyl ketone, methyl heptenine7. Esters – cineole, internal ether (eucalyptole), anethole, safrole8. Lactones – coumarin9. Terpenes – camphene, pinene, limonene, phellandrene, cedrene10. Hydrocarbons – cymene, styrene (phenylethylene)

H3CC

O CH2 CH

CH3

CH3

O

H3CC

O

O-CH2(CH2)6CH3

CH3CH2C

O

O CH2CH

CH3

CH3

CH2

CH3CH2CH2C

O

O CH2CH3

Isoamyl acetateBanana

(Alarm pheromone of honeybee)

Octyl acetateOranges

H3CC

O

O-CH2CH2CH3 H3CC

O

O-CH2CH C

CH3

CH3

Propyl acetatePear

Isopentenyl acetate"Juicy Fruit"

CH3CH2CH2C

O

O CH3H3C

C

O

O-CH2

Isobutyl propionateRum

Ethyl butyratePineapple

Methyl butyrateApple

Benzyl acetatePeach

C

O

OCH3

OH

CH2C

O

OCH2CH3

Methyl SalicylateOil of Wintergreen

Ethyl phenylacetateHoney

FLAVORS AND FRAGRANCES

Types of perfumery ingredients

Odorants Concretes Absolutes

TincturesDistilled oils

Expressed Oils

Fixatives Extenders

Extraction process

Expression Distillation Extraction with volatile solvents Enfleurage Maceration Microwave extraction Supercritical solvent extraction

Conventional Extraction

Problems High Temperature Solvent contamination, reduces product

quality Inflammability or explosion risk Time, solvent, energy consuming Composition varies with solvent & extraction

method

Super Critical Fluid Extraction

Solvent Free Thermal degradation free Energy saving Simple process

Question: Why is one method preferred over

another?1. Cost

2. Quality of product

3. Availability of product

Blending

Once the perfume oils are collected, they are ready to be blended together according to a formula determined by a master in the field, known as a "nose.“

After the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. The amount of alcohol in a scent can vary greatly. Most full perfumes are made of about 10-20% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a trace of water. 

Typical Consumer Products are difficult to

perfume For Fine Fragrances, the perfumer has available 4000+ ingredients and a simple solvent base (alcohol).

For Functional Perfumery, the perfumer has only <400 ingredients depending on the type of base (pH, solvent, colour, etc).

Because; Many ingredients are not stable in acid or alkaline

bases Many ingredients are broken down by bleach Many ingredients will react with the base to cause

base instability (colour, rheology, phase separation) and

Limitations of product production process Limitations of packaging used Limitations of way the product is used

Aging

Fine perfume is often aged for several months or even years after it is blended. Following this, a "nose" will once again test the perfume to ensure that the correct scent has been achieved

Level of Fragrance Concentration

• Perfume

• Eau de Parfum

• Cologne

• Eau de Toilette

• Mists/Scented body products

Highest

Lowest

Selection by a Consumer

A consumer specially a women can choose a fragrance based on: Their mood An occasion (wedding, party, business meeting)

The three most common feelings women want to

get from their fragrance are: Confidence Happiness Femininity

Food Additives

What are food additives? Any substance added to food that changes its

characteristics "any substance the intended use which results or may

reasonably be expected to result-directly or indirectly-in its becoming a component or otherwise affecting the characteristics of any food."

These are used in the production, processing, treatment, packaging, transportation or storage of food.

Additives Are Used To:

1. Maintain product consistency

2. Improve or maintain nutritional value

3. Maintain palatability and wholesomeness

4. Provide leavening or control acidity/alkalinity

5. Enhance flavor or bring out a desired color

Benefits of Additives

Safer and More Nutritious Foods Antimicrobials = prevent food poisoning from

various bacteria and molds Antioxidants = prevent the development of

off-flavors, production of potentially toxic products, and maintain nutritional value of vitamins and lipids

Vitamins = prevent nutritional deficiencies

Benefits of Additives

Greater Choice of Foods Increased development in convenience

foods, snack foods, low-calorie foods, exotic foods, and a variety of food substitutes

Benefits of Additives

Lower-Priced Foods Total removal of additives would result in

higher prices

Food Additives

Food additives can be divided into several groups, although there is some overlap between them.

Acids  Food acids are added to make flavors "sharper", and also

act as preservatives and antioxidants. Common food acids include vinegar, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid.

Antioxidants  Antioxidants such as vitamin C act as preservatives by

inhibiting the effects of oxygen on food, and can be beneficial to health.

Food Additives

Food coloring  Colorings are added to food to replace colors lost

during preparation, or to make food look more attractive.

Flavors  Flavors are additives that give food a particular

taste or smell, and may be derived from natural ingredients or created artificially.

Food Additives

Preservatives  Preservatives prevent or inhibit spoilage of food

due to fungi, bacteria and other microorganisms. Sweeteners 

Sweeteners are added to foods for flavoring. Sweeteners other than sugar are added to keep the food energy (calories) low, or because they have beneficial effects for diabetes mellitus and tooth decay and diarrhea.

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