draping

DRAPING

This draping method is from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's text "Draping for Apparel Design", Fairchild Publications, 2000

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Measure Muslin Length

On the form, measure the length of the muslin from the shoulder over the bust to the waist along the selvedge edge.

Add Extra Length

Add about 4" to this measurement.

Clip through the selvedge

Tear the muslin

Measure the Width

On the form, measure the front width across the bust arc along the cross grain (top edge of the muslin) from the center front to the side seam. Add four inches, clip, and tear as before.

Draw a grainline on the front piece 1" from the longest torn edge.

Mark the Bust Level

Measure and mark 4" down from the top. Put a second mark at the bust level. Measure the form for this distance.

Draw the Cross grain

Draw a line with the L ruler from the bust point.

Continue muslin preparation

Measure, tear and prepare a piece of muslin for the back. Measure and mark 2" down from the top edge. Make a second mark and draw a cross grain line at the shoulder level.

Fold the front muslin piece along the grainline you drew and crease with your finger.

Start the Drape

Pin fold to the form, with the cross grain line at the bustline. Place your top pin pointing down, and your bottom pin pointing up so the muslin does not slip. Place crossed pins at the bustline level.

Pin the Bust Point

Smooth the muslin keeping the cross grain parallel to the floor and place crossed pins at the bust point.

Pin the Shoulder

Smooth muslin upwards from the breast to the middle of the shoulder and pin.

Clip the Shoulder

Smooth the muslin up to the shoulder/neck intersection. Slash the shoulder seam about 1" away from the neck.

Trim the Neck

Trim muslin at the neck down to about 1" from the neck seam.

Clip the Neck

Smooth the muslin upwards and clip the neckline by placing the point of the scissors on the neck seam.

Clip the Neck

Then fold the fabric above the seam into the scissors.

Clip the Neck

Then close the scissors. Be careful not to let the muslin under the point of the scissors slip.

Continue clipping the neckline at about 3/4" intervals. Pin the shoulder at the neck.

Pin the Shoulder Point

Smooth the muslin along the shoulder from the neck, and pin at the shoulder point.

Starting at the shoulder tip, smooth the muslin along the armhole roll line towards the midshoulder pinhead. The fabric should bridge the hollow area between the shoulder and bust.

Trim the waist

Clip the Waist

Smooth and slash the muslin along the waist toward the Princess line using the same clipping technique as at the neck.

Pin the waist at the princess line

Mark the waist at this location for the dart

Front Markings

Mark the following: •bust point •3/8" below CF neck •mid-neckline curve •shoulder/neck intersection •shoulder tip •mid-armhole mark •CF at bottom of waist tape

Pin Ease tuck at Arm eye

Lift the muslin at the arm eye. Direct a 1/4" ease tuck toward the bust and pin. Cut away excess fabric at the arm eye.

Smooth the muslin around the armhole and pin just past the side seam

Pin the Bottom of the Side seam

Place a pin at the bottom of the armhole plate. Smooth the muslin down along the side seam to the bottom of the waist tape and pin.

Pencil rub the side seam

Remove pin from the ease tuck at the arm eye.

Mark the top of the side seam

At the bottom of the armhole plate, draw a short curved line. Draw a line down to the pinhead marking the armhole depth. Draw a second horizontal line here.

Measure the Side seam Ease

Measure 1/2" for side seam ease.

Draw the side seam with a ruler, connecting to the bottom of the side seam at the waist. There is no ease at the waist.

Mark the bottom of the side seam.

Slash along the waist from the sides seam to the princess line

Pin a 1/4" ease tuck at waist Mark the Waist dart

Fold the dart excess towards the center-front. If this excess overlaps the centerline, trim it to within 1" of the dart legs. Mark at the princess line.

Fold the Waist dart

Bring the first dart mark you made to this mark. Crease-fold the excess fabric of the dart inward.

. Pin the Waist dart

Place the pins perpendicular to the fold line of the dart legs.

Do not pin through to the form

Release and Pin the Seams

Fold and crease the shoulder seam and side seam under following the guide marks. Peel back these seams and pin.

. Pin the Center-Back

Fold and crease the muslin for the back drape and pin to the center back seam of the form at the neck, shoulder level, and waist.

Pin the Cross grain at the Arm eye

Smooth the muslin along the cross grain from the center of the back to the pinhead of the mid-armhole (keeping the cross grain line parallel to the form) and pin.

Clip the Neck

Smooth the muslin upwards and trim and slash along the neckline.

Pin the shoulder at the neck

Smooth the muslin along the shoulder towards the Princess line, and mark the intersection of the princess seam and the shoulder seam

Mark the dart intake 1/2" toward the shoulder

Draw a 3" line along the princess seam to direct the angle of the dart

Slash to the shoulder seam about 1" from the neck

Fold the Shoulder Dart

Fold the muslin along the 3" line down to meet the dart intake mark, folding the excess toward the centerline.

Pin the layers of the dart together, placing pins perpendicular to fold, but do not pin the form

Smooth the muslin to the shoulder tip, then mark and pin the shoulder point

Test the Smoothness

Run your finger along the roll line of the armhole to the cross grain pin to test the smoothness. If loose or tight, release the pin to adjust.

Mark the arm eye Trim and clip the waistline to the princess seam. Mark for dart.

Mark 1.5" (1" for juniors) from the Princess line for the dart intake

Fold the waist dart from the cross mark to the dart intake mark with excess towards the centerline. Place the pins perpendicular to the fold line, but do not pin the form.

Smooth, trim, and clip the muslin along the waist.

Pin a 1/4" ease tuck. Continue to smooth and slash the muslin along the waist. Pin at the side seam.

Pencil rub, measure and draw side seam as for front, but with 3/4" ease

Mark back waist

Release holding pins. Carefully match the guide marks of the front shoulder seam and side seam over the back seams. Pin the seams perpendicular to the fold lines, but do not pin to the form.

The Completed Muslin

Remove holding pins and check the arm eye, center front, and center back for any pulling or twisting.

Make Corrections

Mark any corrections needed with a red pen.

What will straighten the center front seam?

Raise the shoulder - VR movie file

Lower the shoulder - VR movie file

Leave the neck (circle) pinned. This acts as a pivot point. Re-mark the center front at neck and waist.

What will balance the arm eye?

Lower the front and raise the back - VR movie file

Lower the back and raise the front - VR movie file

Re-mark the side seam at the arm eye and at the waist

This draping method is from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's text "Draping for Apparel Design", Fairchild Publications, 2000