don’t bite the hand!

Don’t Bite the Hand!Safe Dog Handling

January 6, 2012Tania Huycke-Phillips – Foster & Facilities Coordinator

Evolution to Domestication• Direct descendent of the gray wolf

• Behavior changed; Physiology changed: smaller, with shorter muzzles and smaller teeth

• Started their interactions with humans as scavengers

• One of the most notable changes is the ability of dogs to understand, or read, human signs and behaviors, such as changes in tone or voice or pointing (wolves don’t have this feature)

“Evolution of the Dog” http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/evolution/library/01/5/l_015_02.html

Special Behavior/Handling Considerations

• Puppies

• Pregnant Bitches

• Old dogs

• Nervous Dogs

• Injured Dogs

Canine Behavior• Relaxed Behavior

– Tail low, wagging– Loose body– Approaches people, environment– Rolling over, displaying belly– Long mouth, loose open mouth

• Playful Behavior– Take turns initiating play– Ears back– Yapping, puppy sounds– Tail up and wagging– Play bow: front legs extended, chest lowered, rump in

air

Canine Behavior - Handling

• Relaxed/Playful Dog– Call the dogs name, whistle, etc. to get dog’s

attention (don’t be sneaky)– Ask dog to come to you (choice!)– Reward good behavior (treats, praise, pet)– Drop down to dog level– Friendly, happy voice– Minimal restraint necessary

Canine Behavior• Tense Behavior

– Erect tail– Stiff-legged walk– Head high, ears up or back– Direct eye contact– Direct approach– Short mouth– Hackles up– Growl– Show teeth

Canine Behavior - Handling

• Tense Dog– Remove cause: get the person, dog, or

other animal out of sight of the tense dog– Break the stare: toss a treat, call away,

cause a ruckus– If tense dog is focused at you, do not

approach! Back away facing dog, leave room/kennel. Get assistance!

Canine Behavior• Fearful Behavior

– Tucked tail– Crouched walk– Head low, ears down or

back– Lip licking– No eye contact– Dilated pupils– Whale eye– Avoidance– Tight mouth– Hackles up

Canine Behavior - Handling

• Fearful Dog– Talk softly, calmly– Don’t stare– Face sideways– Always squat down, do not lean over – Move slow, allow dog to see you coming– Make yourself the “good guy” by rewarding good

behavior (approach, relaxation) with treats, praise– Pet side of face or under chin, instead of top of head.– Do not remove the dog’s choices (don’t corner)– “It is the dog’s perception of a situation, not the intent

of the human, which determines whether a situation is potentially harmful.”

Breed Considerations• Sometimes dogs can be hard to

“read” because of breed

– Floppy eared dogs don’t provide same “ear cues” as others

– Heavy facial fur

– Non-vocalizing dogs

Reasons for Aggressive Actions

• Dog “perceives” challenge to it’s social status

• Threat to resource (territory, toys, food, kennel, people)

• Physical restraint• Fear it will be harmed• Pain• Mental abnormality (i.e. seizures, head

trauma)

Handling – Leash

• Have treat and ask dog to sit

• Squat down (don’t loom) to clip on leash

• Reward (give treat) for returning to kennel

• If fearful, follow handling guidelines

• If fearful or no collar, make a loop leash

• If dog hesitates, halts, refuses to walk, try to lure with treats and encouraging words.

• If dog still doesn’t move, carefully pick up dog, don’t drag (see handling policy).

Handling – Lifting/Carrying• Small Dogs

– Reach one hand under head/neck and grasp collar on side opposite from you

– With other hand, reach over dog’s back and support thorax with hand and arm

Handling – Lifting/Carrying• Medium sized dogs

– Sweep one hand and arm under the dog’s head and neck

– Slip the other arm under dog’s abdomen near its hind legs

– Using your legs (not your back), lift dog up

Handling – Lifting/Carrying• Large Dog

– Reach one hand and arm under dog’s head and neck and rest hand just below shoulder on side opposite from you

– Wrap other hand and arm behind dog’s rump and lift. Dog will assume a “sitting position.” www.petalert.com

* Use this method for lifting pregnant bitches

Restraint Precautions• MINIMAL restraint! Use the least

amount of restraint necessary to accomplish the task. Can adjust to more restraint as needed.

• Work in an area cleared of debris, close doors to room

• READ DOG’S BODY LANGUAGE!• Ask for help!

Restraint Techniques• Standing Restraint – Safe Hug

– Wrap one arm around dog’s neck to control head

– Wrap other arm under abdomen, pull dog close to your body

– Minimal RestraintUse this restraint for:Physical examIM, SQ InjectionsBlood draws (heartworm tests)

Restraint Techniques

• Cephalic Venipuncture– Keep its body close to

yours– Encircle one arm under

dog’s neck & head (safe hug)

– With the other hand, brace the dog’s elbow and using the thumb on the same hand, “roll” the vein and occlude it for the person taking the blood

Use this restraint for:IV Injections (surgery prep)Blood draws (heartworm tests)

Restraint Equipment

Must be trained before using•Muzzles•Quick Muzzle•Bite Gloves•Towels, Blankets•Loop Leash•Snappy Snare•Catch Poles

Muzzles

• Size Matters!• If aggressive, may be easier to approach

from behind while assistant restrains (safe hug)

• If fearful, may be easier to allow them to see you coming, off treats, go slow, as assistant restrains (safe hug)

• Bring muzzle up and around other side of face and secure on top behind ears tightly (buckle)

• Make sure dog’s nostrils are exposed

Catch Poles• Drop open loop over dogs head• Pull cable to snug loop; tight enough to prevent dog’s

head from slipping out, not tight enough to strangle• Push dog ahead of you, don’t pull behind• Have assistant lead safe way to kennel• Pull nob on back of pole to release cable

Why?

Being in a shelter is already a stressful experience for any animal. We want to do

all that we can to lower their stress level and stay safe when handling them.

Also, to avoid this: