chemistry of some cosmetics

Cosmetics ChemistrySkin Care Products

Subject Expert: Dr. Tanuja NautiyalSOS Organics

Chemistry of Skin Care Products

Vanishing Cream

Vanishing cream differs from cold cream in having smaller quantity of oily phase; hence it is easy to rub on skin and leaves non-greasy film on skin with glow. This combined with evaporation of water, gives cooling effect.

The first commercial vanishing cream, was introduced in 1892.

Vanishing Cream

Vanishing creams can also be called stearate creams.

Vanishing cream is an oil-in-water emulsion consisting of a stearic acid, an alkali, a polyol and water.

The alkali forms a soap with some of the stearic acid thereby producing an emulsion.

Ingredients of Vanishing cream

The polyol (e.g. glycerin) makes the cream more spreadable and acts as a humectant to help prevent it from drying out and cracking during storage in its container.

The product was noted for its smooth, dry feel on the skin and its pearly sheen.

Ingredients of Vanishing cream

Propyl parabene

Stearic acid

Lanolin

Propylene glycol

Ingredients of Vanishing CreamOil soluble ingredients

Ingredients of Vanishing Creamwater soluble ingredients

Triethanolamine (TEA) Methyl parabene

Stearic acid 22.5%

Triethanolamine 1.5%

Potassium hydroxide 1%

Glycerin 6%

Water 69%

Formulation of Vanishing cream

Procedure for Making Vanishing Cream

The oils, waxes, emulsifiers (stearic acid, lanolin, propylene glycol, propyl parabene) and other oil-soluble components are heated to 750C in a steam-jacketed kettle.

Step: I Preparation of Oil phase

Procedure for Making Vanishing Cream

The water is soluble components (Alkalis, alkanolamines, triethanolamine (TEA), polyhydric alcohols, and preservatives) are dissolved in the aqueous phase and heated to 750C in another steam-jacketed kettle.

Step: II Preparation of aqueous phase

Procedure for Making Vanishing Cream

When both phases are at 750C, oily phase is transferred to aqueous phase in small portions with continuous stirring in manner that a homogenous emulsion is formed.

To allow for evaporation of water during the heating and emulsification, about 3- 5% excess water (based on formula weight) is added.

Now, once the transfer is complete it is allowed to come at room temperature all the while being stirred.

Preparation of Oil in water type emulsion Step: III

Procedure for Making Vanishing Cream

Perfume is added just before the finished product is transferredto suitable container for the consumers.

Addition of AdditivesStep: IV

Shaving Cream

Shaving cream is a substance applied to the skin to facilitate removal of hair.

Shaving cream provides lubrication which helps prevent razor burn and discomfort during shaving. It comes in a wide variety of formats including creams, gels and most commonly foams.

Shaving cream

Stearic acid is the main ingredients in soap making.

Raw Materials for Shaving cream

Stearic acid

Triethanolamine (TEA)

Triethanolamine is a surfactant, one end of a surfactant molecule attracts dirt and grease, the other end attracts water.

Lanolin and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate are both emulsifiers which hold water to the skin

Raw Materials for Shaving cream

Glycerin, a solvent and an emollient, renders skin softer and more supple.

Lanolin

Glycerine

Formulation of shaving cream

Water: 65-75% Stearic acid: 15-20% Acid: 50kg Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan Monostearate: 6% Lanolin: 5% Triethanolamine: 3% Glycerine: 2% Alkali(KOH): as preservative and perfume

Ingredients Quantity

Procedure for Making Shaving Cream

Step: I Preparation of Oil phase

The oils, waxes, emulsifiers and other oil-soluble components (Stearic acid: 20.6%, Diglycol stearate: 2.5%, Mineral oil: 4%, Lanolin: 1%, Castor oil: 1%), are heated 750C in a steam-jacketed kettle.

Stearic acid

Lanolin

Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan Monostearate

steam-jacketed kettle

Step: I Preparation of Oil phase

The oils, waxes, emulsifiers and other oil-soluble components (Stearic acid: 20.6%, Diglycol stearate: 2.5%, Mineral oil: 4%, Lanolin: 1%, Castor oil: 1%), are heated 750C in a steam-jacketed kettle.

Procedure for Making Shaving Cream

Step: II Preparation of aqueous phase

The water is soluble components; alkalis, alkalomines, polyhydric alcohols and preservatives, are heated to 750C. Prepare a 2% mucilage of sodium alginate, then add in Triethanolamine:1.3%, Propylene glycol: 4%, Borax: 0.9%, Water: 14% )

Procedure for Making Shaving Cream

Add both Oil phase to Aqueous phase slowly with good agitation and continue stirring down to 450C. The slow addition and emulsification of the water increase the viscosity of the system.

Preparation of Oil in water type emulsion Step: III

Procedure for Making shaving Cream

Addition of AdditivesStep: IV

Stir the menthol and camphor, dissolved in the perfume oil,The cream can be poured at 450C. If a softer consistency is desired, continue slow stirring (avoiding incorporation of air) until cream is cooled below 350C, remix briefly next day and package at room temperature.

Stearic acid or myristic acid, Triethanolamine (an emulsifier), Supper fattening agents (mineral oil, cetyl alcohol), Mucins (natural or synthetic), Humectants (glycerol or sorbitols), Polyoxyethylene glycols.

These ingredients are mixed and homogenised and then required perfume added.

Preparation of brushless shaving creams

Aftershave creams relieve tenderness , dryness , roughness of skin after shaving. Formulation of aftershave creams:

Ethyl alcohol 50% Sorbitol 70%Soln. 2.5% Perfume oil 0.5%Menthol 0.1% Boric acid 2.0% Water 44.9%

Aftershave cream

Cosmetics ChemistrySkin Care Products

Subject Expert: Dr. Tanuja NautiyalSOS Organics