chapter 17 hairstyling - wpmu dev

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Chapter 17

Hairstyling

NOTES

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

“You can’t be brave if you’ve only had

wonderful things happen to you.”

– Mary Tyler Moore

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Objectives

• Demonstrate finger waving, pin curls, roller setting, and

hair wrapping.

• Demonstrate various blow-dry styling techniques.

• Demonstrate the proper use of thermal irons.

• Demonstrate various thermal iron manipulations and

explain how they are used.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

• Describe the three types of hair pressing.

• Demonstrate the procedures involved in soft pressing

and hard pressing.

• Demonstrate three basic techniques of styling long hair.

Objectives (continued)

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Wet-Styling Tools

• Combs

• Brushes

• Rollers (short, medium, or long)

• Clips (duckbills, double-pronged, single-pronged)

• Pins

• Clamps

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Finger Waving

The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate

parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb,

waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Finger-Waving Lotion

• Makes hair pliable and holds it in place

• Made of karaya gum

• Diluted for use on fine hair

• Concentrated for regular or coarse hair

• Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry

• Avoid excessive amounts of

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Horizontal Finger Waving

• Preparing Hair for Wet Styling

• Horizontal Finger Waving

• Procedures will be covered during the practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Pin Curls

• Parts of a Curl

– Base

– Stem

– Circle

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Mobility of a Curl

– No-stem

– Half-stem

– Full-stem

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Shaping

• Begin at open end of a shaping.

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Open- and Closed-Center Curls

• Open-center curls • Closed-center curls

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Curl and Stem Direction

• Forward movement

• Reverse movement

• Upward movement

• Downward movement

• Clockwise

• Counterclockwise

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HALF WAY

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Pin Curl Foundations or Bases

• Rectangular base

• Triangular base

• Arc base

• Square base

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Pin Curl Techniques

• Ribboning

• Waves

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• Carved/sculptured curls

• Ridge curls

• Skip waves

Pin Curl Techniques (continued)

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Creating Volume with Pin Curls

• Cascade curls

• Barrel curls

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Roller Curl Advantages

• Speed

• Increased strength

• Greater creativity

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Parts of a Roller Curl

• Base

• Stem

• Curl

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Choosing Roller Size

• C-shaped curl

• Wave

• Curls

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Roller Placement

• On base

• Half base

• Off base

• Indentation

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Wet Styling

• Wet set with rollers

• Procedure will be covered during practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Rollers

• Hot rollers: used on dry hair only; heated electrically or

by steam

• Velcro™ rollers: used on dry hair only for 5 to 10 minutes

(not allowed in some states)

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Back-Combing Technique

• Section hair.

• Insert comb.

• Press comb to scalp.

• Create cushion base.

• Repeat for volume.

• Smooth hair.

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Back-Brushing Technique

• Hold strand.

• Place brush.

• Roll brush.

• Turn brush.

• Blend hair.

• Complete styling.

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STOP HERE

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Hair Wrapping

• Hair Wrapping Procedure

• Procedure will be covered during practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Thermal Styling

• The process of drying and styling damp hair in one

operation

• Today’s women desire styles that require less time and

effort to maintain.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Blow-Dry Styling Tools

• Blow-dryer

– Handle

– Slotted nozzle

– Small fan

– Heating element

– Speed/heat controls

– Diffuser

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Combs, Picks, Clips

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Brushes

• Classic styling brush

• Paddle brush

• Grooming brush

• Vent brush

• Round brush

• Teasing brush

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Styling Products

• Foam or mousse

• Gels

• Liquid gels or texturizers

• Straightening gels

• Volumizers

• Pomade or wax

• Silicone shiners

• Hair spray or finishing

spray

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Blow-Dry Cautions

• Don’t hold dryer in one place too long.

• Direct air flow.

• Direct hot air away from scalp.

• Move in back-and-forth motion.

• Partially dry before style blow-drying.

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Blow-Dry Procedures

• Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair

• Diffusing long, curly hair

• Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume

• Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight style

• Procedures will be covered during practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Thermal Hairstyling

• Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry

hair using thermal irons and special manipulative

techniques

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Thermal Irons

• Four parts

– Rod handle

– Shell handle

– Barrel or rod

– Shell

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Flat Irons

• Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across

• Used to create smooth, straight styles

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Testing Thermal Irons

• Heat iron.

• Clamp heated iron over tissue.

• Note if paper scorches.

• Let cool as needed.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Care of Thermal Irons

• Wash with soap and water.

• Use fine sandpaper or steel wool.

• Oil joint.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Thermal Iron Comb

• Size

• Holding comb

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Manipulating Thermal Irons

• Grasp handles with dominant hand.

• Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with

little finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle.

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Practice with Cold Irons

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Other Types of Curls

• Spiral curls

– Part hair.

– Insert iron.

– Rotate iron.

– Hold for 4 to 5 seconds.

– Remove iron.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Other Types of Curls (continued)

• End curls.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

• Volume-base thermal curls

– Section off base.

– Hold strand at 135-degree angle.

– Slide iron over strand.

– Wrap strand over rod with medium tension.

– Maintain position for 5 seconds.

– Roll curl and place on base.

Other Types of Curls (continued)

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

• Full-base thermal curls

– Section off base.

– Hold strand at 125-degree angle.

– Slide iron over strand.

– Wrap strand with medium tension.

– Maintain position for 5 seconds.

– Roll curl and place firmly on base.

Other Types of Curls (continued)

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

• Half-base thermal curls

– Section off base.

– Hold hair at 90-degree angle.

– Slide iron over hair strand.

– Wrap strand over rod with medium tension.

– Maintain position for 5 seconds.

– Roll curl and place it half on base.

Other Types of Curls (continued)

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• Off-base thermal curls

– Section off base.

– Hold hair at 70-degree angle.

– Slide iron over strand.

– Wrap strand over rod with medium tension.

– Maintain position for 5 seconds.

– Roll curl and place off base.

Other Types of Curls (continued)

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Finished Thermal Curl Settings

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Safety Measures

• Get instructions for use of irons.

• Keep irons clean.

• Do not overheat.

• Test temperature.

• Handle carefully.

• Place hot irons in safe place to cool.

• Don’t place handles too close to heater.

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• Properly balance irons in heater.

• Use hard rubber or nonflammable combs.

• Do not use metal combs.

• Place comb between scalp and iron.

• Curl only clean, dry hair.

• Avoid fishhooks.

• Use gentle setting on chemically-treated hair.

Safety Measures (continued)

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Thermal Hair Straightening Types

• Soft press

• Medium press

• Hard press

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Analysis of Hair and Scalp

• Wave pattern of hair

• Length of hair

• Texture of hair

• Feel of hair

• Elasticity of hair

• Shade of hair

• Condition of hair

• Condition of scalp

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Texture and Feel of Hair

• Coarse, overly curly

• Medium

• Fine

• Wiry

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Pressing and Scalp Conditions

• Normal

• Tight (with coarse hair)

• Flexible

• Intake Form

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Conditioning Treatments

• Cosmetic preparations

• Thorough brushing

• Scalp massage

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Pressing Combs

• Construction

• Handles

• Teeth

• Tempering the comb

– Heat comb.

– Remove comb.

– Coat in oil.

– Cool and rinse.

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• Heating the comb

• Testing the temperature

• Attachment

• Cleaning the comb

Pressing Combs (continued)

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• Cleaning the comb

– Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and debris.

– Remove carbon with emery board, steel wool, or fine

sandpaper.

– Immerse in hot baking-soda solution for one hour.

– Rinse and dry thoroughly.

Pressing Combs (continued)

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Pressing Oil Benefits

• Makes hair softer

• Prepares hair for pressing

• Prevents hair from burning

• Helps prevent breakage

• Conditions hair after pressing

• Adds sheen

• Helps retain press

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Soft Pressing for Normal Curly Hair

• 17-17 Soft Curl Press

• Procedure will be covered during practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

What to Avoid When Pressing

• Excessive heat or pressure on hair and scalp

• Too much pressing oil on hair (can attract dirt)

• Perfumed pressing oil near scalp

• Too-frequent hair pressing (can weaken hair)

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Reminders and Hints

• Keep comb clean and carbon free.

• Avoid overheating pressing comb.

• Test comb temperature.

• Adjust temperature.

• Use comb carefully to avoid burning skin.

• Prevent smoking/burning of hair.

• Use moderately warm comb at temples and nape.

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Injuries

• Immediate physical damage

• Not immediately evident

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Special Considerations

• Pressing fine hair

• Pressing short fine hair

• Pressing coarse hair

• Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair

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Styling Long Hair: Updos

• Valuable service

– Weddings

– Proms

– Other evening events

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Client Consultation

• Determine client desires.

• For wedding, use magazines, suggest trial run, bring

headpiece.

• Suggest trial run.

• If bridal, bring headpiece.

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Styling Long Hair

• Knot: also called a chignon

• Twist: elegant, sleek look that can go anywhere

• Pleat: traditional updo used for weddings and black-tie

events (sometimes called a classic French twist)

• Procedures will be covered during practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

Summary and Review

• What is the purpose of finger waving?

• What are the three parts of a pin curl?

• Name the four pin curl bases and their uses.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

• Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and the uses of

each.

• What is the purpose of back combing and back brushing?

• How can you avoid burning the client’s scalp during blow-

drying?

• List and describe various styling products used in blow-

drying.

• How is volume achieved with thermal curls?

Summary and Review (continued)

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

• List at least 10 safety measures for using thermal irons.

• Name and describe three types of hair presses.

• How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a

service?

Summary and Review (continued)

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

• What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis

prior to hair pressing?

• Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed?

• List at least four safety measures that must be followed

when pressing hair.

Summary and Review (continued)

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

You have completed one unit of study

toward course completion.

Congratulations!