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Best Places to Eat
¨Mala Kuhinja (p147)
¨Hindin Han (p152)
¨Manolo (p147)
¨Babilon (p153)
¨ Park Prinčeva (p147)
Best Places to Stay
¨Muslibegović House (p152)
¨ Isabegov Hamam Hotel (p146)
¨Ovo Malo Duše (p146)
¨Hostel Balkanarama (p152)
When to Go
Apr–Jun Beat the heat in Hercego-vina; blooming flowers in Bosnia.
Jul–Aug Gets sweaty and accommodation fills, but festivals keep things lively.
Mid-Jan– mid-Mar Skiing gets cheaper after the New Year holidays.
Bosnia & HercegovinaWhy Go?This craggily beautiful land retains some lingering scars from the heartbreaking civil war in the 1990s. But today visitors will more likely remember Bosnia and Hercegovina (BiH) for its deep, unassuming human warmth and for the intriguing East-meets-West atmosphere born of fascinating-ly blended Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian histories.
Major drawcards are the reincarnated antique centres of Sarajevo and Mostar, where rebuilt historical buildings counterpoint fashionable bars and wi-fi–equipped cafes. Captivating Sarajevo is an architectural gem, with countless minarets amid the tile-roofed houses that rise steeply up its river flanks. Mostar is world famous for its extraordinary arc of 16th-century stone bridge, photogenically flanked by cute mill-house restaurants. The town is set at the heart of Herce-govina’s sun-baked wine country, with waterfalls, a riverside sufi-house and an Ottoman fortress all nearby.
Includes ¨Sarajevo . . . . . . . . . . . .104Mostar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
-20/-4
40/104
0/32
F DNOSAJJMAMJ
Sarajevo°C/°F Temp
20/68
Rainfall inches/mm
2/50
2.9/75
3.9/100
0
1/25
4.9/125
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–
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Hvar
Brač
KorčulaVis
SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
CROATIA
CROATIA
A D R I A T I C S E A
Dri
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Dunav
LakeSkadarsko
(Skadarsko Jezero)
RamskoJezero
JezaroRicice
BosnaSava
Neretva
Drina
Vrbas
BosanskaDubica
Ključ
TomislavGrad
Olovo
Bugojno
Jablanica
SanskiMost
Posušje
NevesinjeBlagaj
BosanskoGrahovo
Kladanj
Maglaj
ŠirokiBrijeg
Bileća
Glamoč
Počitelj
Međugorje
VelKladuša
KotorVaroš
Fojnica
VarešDrvar
Šuica
Stolac
KupresPale
Lastva
ŠćepanPolje
Čitluk
Orašje
Čapljina
MrkonjicGrad
Letka
Neum
Goražde
Vlasenica
Livno
Srebrenica
BosanskaGradiška
Prijedor
Gacko
BosanskaKrupa
Modriča
ŽepčeBanovići
Derventa
Zvornik
BosanskoPetrovac
NoviGrad
Tuzla
Bar
Travnik
Pljevlja
Herceg-Novi
Nikšic
Priboj
Zenica
Šibenik
Jajce
Koprivnica
Brčko
Doboj
Budva
SlavonskiBrod
Novi Sad
Dubrovnik
Split
Osijek
Vranduk
KulenVakuf
MartinBrod
Bijeljina
SremskaMitrovica
Tesanj
Gradačac
KostelaPrnjavor
Ostrožac
Lukomir
Podvelež
Trebinje
BanjaLuka
Bihać
Grabovac
Bratunac
ZAGREB
PODGORICA
Visoko
KaranovacKrupa naVrbasu
FočaKonjic
HadžićiVišegrad
KraviceWaterfalls
KozaraNationalPark
SutjeskaNational
Park
Viewpoint
Dobrun
Srebrenik
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#1
1 Stari Most (p149) Gawping as young men throw themselves off Mostar’s magnificently rebuilt stone arc.
2 Baščaršija (p142) Padding around Old Sarajevo’s fascinating turkic era alleyways on soft flagstones that feel like chilled butter underfoot.
3 Tunnel Museum (p146) Discovering more about the hopes and horrors of the 1990s civil war at this intensely moving museum.
4 Mostar’s Hinterland (p153) Making a satisfyingly varied day trip from Mostar to Kravice Waterfalls and other gems of Hercegovina.
5 Mountain Escapes (p148) Heading for resorts like Jahorina and Bjelašnica in the hills around Sarajevo to ski in winter or hike in the summer sunshine.
Bosnia & Hercegovina Highlights
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