28007911 polyester blends dyeing

Dyeing and Dyeing and Finishing Finishing Polyester/Cellulose Polyester/Cellulose blends blends

Wirote SarakarnkosolWirote Sarakarnkosol

PES/CELPES/CEL• Relative ease of processing• Versatility of application, leading to a wide range

of dyed and finished effects• Polyester/cellulosic yarns are used in sewing

threads and slub effects for apparel.• Woven staple 67:33 polyester/cotton (T/C) and

50:50 polyester/viscose (CVS) blends in numerous constructions form the well-established

Pretreatment of PES/CEL Pretreatment of PES/CEL blends blends • Desizing

– Enzyme with hot rinse• Scouring

– Avoid alkali hydrolysis with NaOH; – Na2CO3 should be used.

• Singeing– Avoid molten bead of PES (for exhaustion process, it has higher

depth)– Gas singeing is prefer than Plate singeing

• Mercerizing– Concentrate NaOH can not damage PES at room temperature

• Heat setting– Temperature should not exceed until CEL part is yellowing

• Bleaching– H2O2 and NaClO2 is the suitable bleaching agent

Different dyeing property Different dyeing property between PES and CELbetween PES and CEL

• Mildly acidic pH required.

• Not essential to use electrolyte.

• High temperature required.

• Both suitable in exhaustion and continuous process

Polyester

Different dyeing property Different dyeing property between PES and CELbetween PES and CEL

Cellulose

pH 0 7 144 10

Near neutral

Neutral - Alkali

Alkali

Strong alkali

RE

DO

X A

BS

EN

TR

ED

OX

PR

ES

EN

T

Temp 80-100oC

Temp 90-100oC

Temp 20 - 60oC

Temp 30-130oC

ELECTROLYTE FOR ALL

Confliction of simultaneous Confliction of simultaneous dyeing on PES/CEL blendsdyeing on PES/CEL blends

High

Temp

Normal

COTTON

POLYESTER

Acidic

pH

Alkali

POLYESTER

COTTON

ReductionClearing

After-Treatment

Soaping&Fixing

POLYESTER

COTTON

Surfactant

Ionicstrength

Electrolyte

POLYESTER

COTTON

• Constitution and applied depth of the dyes used• Heat treatment history of the polyester fibres• Degree of penetration of the polyester after

thermofixation• Degree of staining of the cellulosic fibres• Temperature and duration of the heat treatment

that causes the thermomigration• Presence of other contaminants on the surface

of the fibre components

Factor of severity of the thermomigration effect :

How to solve !How to solve !• Careful dye selection to avoid dyes prone to

thermomigration• Adequate thermofixation conditions to ensure

optimum penetration of the polyester fibres• Thorough post-clearing to minimise residual

staining of the cellulosic fibres• Lowering the curing temperature in subsequent

resin finishing• Minimal application of softeners and antistatic

agents at the finishing stage

PES/CEL : Dyes selection for PES/CEL : Dyes selection for exhaust dyeingexhaust dyeing

PES/CEL blend dyeing

Polyester reserve Solid shade

One-bath/One-stage One-bath/Two-stage1. Direct dyes2. Reactive dyes

Disperse dyes and disazomultisulphonated direct dyes at pH 6

Disperse dyes and reactant-fixabledyes with copper-specific sequesterant

Disperse dyes and nicotinotriazinereactive dyes at 130°C

Disperse dyes at 130°C, thenlow-reactivity dyes at 80–95°C

High-reactivity dyes (VS or FP) at low temperature, then disperse dyes at 130°C

Disperse dyes at 130°C, then selected vat dyes at 20–60°C

1. Disperse dyes / Direct dyes

130°C

80–95°C

Disperse dye and auxiliariesAdjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 5 - 6Disulphonate dyesSalt

Fixing

30-60 min

10-20 minFor Black 22Must adjust pH

To 10-11 with soda ash

Selection of direct dyesSelection of direct dyes• Normally Disazo multisulphonate dyes

Y

R

B

G

Y 86

O 39

R 244

B 199

Bk 22

Bl 71

G 26

Bl 200

R 83Bk 112

Direct dyes : Commercial nameDirect dyes : Commercial name

• Sirius (Dystar)

• Solophenyl (Ciba)

• Solar (Clariant)

• Kayarus (KYK)

2. Disperse / Reactant-fixable directdyes

130°C

80–95°C

Disperse dye and auxiliariesAdjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 5 - 6Disulphonate dyes Copper-specific sequesterant (Plexophor SFI)Salt

Fixing

30-60 min

10-20 min

Typical reactant-fixable direct dyeTypical reactant-fixable direct dye

Commercial name : Indosol (Clariant)

Fixing for Fixing for Reactant-fixable directdyes• The bifunctional type (60oC x 10-20 min): Indosol E-50

• gave fastness to washing at 50oC through the formation of an extensive dye–agent complex within the fibre.

• The trifunctional type (40oC x 15 min and then alkali 30 – 40 min): Indosol EF

• Forms covalent bonds with cellulose• Confers a higher degree of fastness to washing at 60oC even with

deep shades

• The tetrafunctional reactant resins (Pad Dry Cure 175 –180oC) : Indosol CR

• Confer the highest fastness, even to washing at the boil.• Applied with an N-methylol reactant such as DMDHEU and an acid-

liberating catalyst e.g. magnesium chloride to give a commercial product sold as a cationic reactant resin.

• Not only excellent wet fastness but also improved crease resistance and good dimensional stability.

3. Disperse dyes /Nicotinotriazinereactive dyes

130°C

Disperse dye and auxiliariesAdjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 6 - 7Nicotinotriazine reactive dyesSalt

45-60 min

RinseSoaping

Nicotinotriazinereactive dyes

Commercial name : Kayacelon React (KYK)

Nicotinotriazinereactive dyes

CI Reactive Substituent X

Red 120 Cl Procion Red H-E3B (Dystar)

Red 221 Kayacelon React Red CN-3B (KYK)

4. Disperse dyes /Low-reactivity reactive dyes

130°C

80–95°C

Disperse dye and auxiliariesAdjust pH with acetic acid to 4-5.5Reactive dyesSalt

Alkali

RinseSoaping

30-60 min

30-45 min

Low-reactivity reactive dyes

• Monofunctional• Aminochlorotriazine Procion H (Dystar)• Trichloropyrimidine Drimarene X (Clariant)

• Bifunctional• Bis(aminochlorotriazine) Procion H-E (Dystar)

Procion H-EXL (Dystar)

Procion XL+ (Dystar)

Advantage of alkali clearable Advantage of alkali clearable disperse dye disperse dye

DyeingAt 130oC

PES CEL CELPES

Alkali add

CELPES

Soaping

CELPES

Highest washing fastness of blends

Reactive dyes

Alkali clearable disperse dyes

5. Disperse / Vat dyes

130°C

Disperse dye and auxiliariesAdjust pH with acetic acid to 4-5.5Vat dyes

30-60 min

Reducing agentCaustic soda

20–60°C

Rinse

Oxidise

20-40 min 10 min

20–40°C

Vat dyes : Commercial nameVat dyes : Commercial name

• Indanthrene (Dystar)

• Cibanone (Ciba)

• Nihonthrene (Sumitomo)

Model of Disperse/Vat dyeing Model of Disperse/Vat dyeing on One bath/two stage on One bath/two stage

DyeingAt 130oC

PES CEL CELPES

Alkali and Reducing agent add

CELPES

Oxidising and Soaping

CELPES

Highest washing fastness of blends

Vat dyes

Normal disperse dyes

6. High-reactivity reactive dyes/ disperse dyes

40-60°C

130°C

Disperse dyesReactive dyesSalt

Alkali 30-60 min

30-60 min

Adjust pH to 4.0-5.5

RinseSoaping

High-reactivity reactive dyes which resist acid hydrolysis • Vinyl sulphone (VS)

• Remazol (Dystar)• Sumifix (Sumitomo)

• Fluorochloropyrimidine (FCP)• Levafix EA (Dystar)• Drimarene K (Clariant)

• Bifunctional of VS and Fluorotriazine• Novacron C (Huntmann)• Levafix CA (Dystar)• Drimarene CL (Clariant)

PES/CEL : Dyes selection for PES/CEL : Dyes selection for continuous dyeingcontinuous dyeing

PES/CEL blend dyeing

Polyester reserve Solid shade

Disperse/Vat Disperse/ReactiveReactive dyes with sodiumbicarbonate and urea

Pad–dry–thermofix–pad–steamHigh-energy disperse dyes andselected vat dyes

Pad–dry–thermofix-jig developHigh-energy disperse dyes andselected vat dyes

Pad–dry–thermofix- Selected disperse dyes and high- reactivity dyes with sodium bicarbonate and urea- Selected disperse dyes and Phosphonic acid derivative reactive dye

Pad–dry–thermofix–pad–steamSelected disperse dyes and high- reactivity dyes

Pad–dry–thermofix (1): Disperse/Reactive dyes

Disperse dyesHigh reactivity reactive dye Migration inhibitorReduction inhibitorHygroscopic agent (Urea?)Wetting agentSodium bicarbonate or sodium formate

180 – 220oC with variation of time

RinseSoaping

Disadvantage of ureaDisadvantage of urea

> 135oC

Alternatives to urea in thermosol dyeing and thermofixation

Suitable reactive dyesSuitable reactive dyes

• Fluorochloropyrimidine (Levafix EA, Drimarene K)

• Dichloroquinoxaline (Levafix E)

• Monofluorotriazine (Novacron F)

Interaction between disperse dyes and MCT dyes

Pad–dry–thermofix (2): Disperse/Acid fixable reactive dye

Disperse dyesPhosphonic acid derivative reactive dyeDicyandiamideMigration inhibitorReduction inhibitorHygroscopic agentWetting agent

180 – 220oC with variation of time

RinseSoaping

Reaction mechanism of phosphonic acid derivative with cellulose

Phosphonic acid derivative reactive dye

Pad–dry–thermofix–pad–steam: Disperse/Reactive dyes

Disperse dyesReactive dyeMigration inhibitorReduction inhibitorWetting agent

180 – 220oC with variation of time

100 – 120oC with variation of time

Caustic sodaCommon salt

Thermofix Steam

RinseSoaping

Pad–dry–thermofix–pad–steam: Disperse/Vat dyes

Disperse dyesVat dyeMigration inhibitorWetting agent

180 – 220oC with variation of time

100 – 120oC with variation of time

Caustic sodaHydrosCommon salt

Thermofix Steam

OxidiseSoaping

Pad–dry–thermofix-jig develop: Disperse/Vat dyes

180 – 220oC with variation of time

Caustic sodaHydrosCommon salt

Disperse dyesVat dyeMigration inhibitorWetting agent Oxidise

Soaping

Dyeing and Dyeing and Finishing Finishing Polyester/Elastane Polyester/Elastane blends blends

Wirote SarakarnkosolWirote Sarakarnkosol

Problem of PES/EL blend Problem of PES/EL blend dyeingdyeing

• Disperse dye which are dyeing on polyester have the tendency to stain on Elastane

• Disperse dyes which stained the elastane component of blend has poor fastness

• Thermomigration of disperse dyes from polyester to elastane occurs which result in colour change

Elastane morphology:Elastane morphology:Hard and soft segmentHard and soft segment

SoftSoftsegmentsegment

HardHardsegmentsegment

HardHardsegmentsegment

HardHardsegmentsegment

SoftSoftsegmentsegment

Hard segment: For recovery, dimension stability and elastic of elastaneHard segment: For recovery, dimension stability and elastic of elastane

Soft segment : For flexibility, stretching and elongation of elastaneSoft segment : For flexibility, stretching and elongation of elastane

PES/EL blends and locking of PES/EL blends and locking of disperse dyes.disperse dyes.

Room temp

Tg of softsegmentof EL

Tg of PESand hardsegmentof EL

Tg = Glass transition temperature

Useful condition

Under Tg : dye can be locked

Above Tg : dye can migrate

Under Tg : dye can be locked

Above Tg : dye can migrate

Heat setting on PES/EL blendsHeat setting on PES/EL blends

• Temperature should higher than Tg of hard block for re-crystallization of elastane.

• Should not exceed for prevent the yellowing and degradation of elastane

• Optimum condition for heat setting is 180 – 190oC for 20-35 seconds.

Scouring of PES/EL blends.Scouring of PES/EL blends.• Elastane have a high lubricant level (2-5%) due

to the inherent tackiness of the fibers.• Main component of lubricant is SILICONE and

hydrocarbon types.• Aqueous surfactant scouring are extracted only

50% of the oil.• Solvent scouring give excellent removal of the

fiber lubricants, but it also extract the additive e.g. UV absorber or pollution protecting agent

Dyeing of PES/EL blends Dyeing of PES/EL blends • Optimum dyeing temperature should about

125 – 130oC due to the highest absorption and migration to PES part.

• Shorter fixation time for disperse dye for minimum damage to EL (fixation time 15-30 min)

• Alkali clearable disperse dyes should use for dyeing on PES/EL blends for highest wet-fastness.

Disperse dyes adsorption on Disperse dyes adsorption on PES and EL in same bathPES and EL in same bath

70 80 90 100 110 120 130 130oC 30 min

100% PES

100% EL

Reduction clearing of PES/EL Reduction clearing of PES/EL blendsblends

• Alkali dithionite and thiourea dioxide is the most suitable for reduction clearing on PES/EL blends with low temperature (60-70oC).

• Acid reduction clearing is not suitable on PES/EL due to higher temperature (80-90oC) can induce the migration of disperse dyes from EL to rinse bath.

Conclusion :Conclusion :• Polyester/Cellulose blends can be dyed

with disperse dyes and other dyes for another blends with suitable dye class and dyeing condition for balancing the essential parameter to highest fastness and reproducibility

• Polyester/Elastane blends provide the lower fastness than those of original polyester, thus disperse dyes which use for dyeing blends must be selected for highest fastness and reproducibility