21 st century pilgrimage by linda canestraight to omkara mandhata february 2003

2121stst Century Pilgrimage Century Pilgrimage

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Linda CanestraightLinda Canestraight

To Omkara MandhataTo Omkara Mandhata

February 2003February 2003

The Journey Continues Stairway of Mandhata Hill Traveling East

Before going on, stop for chai (hot tea) at the tea stall located on the Gauri Somnath campus. It will cool you down when walking in the heat of the day. It is a long walk down the hillside towards the ravine that divides the two hills which create the OM

symbol appearance from above that makes this island such a sacred place.

These two views of the descent down the hill show the walking path cutting across the side of the hill with its steep stairway over the rough terrain.

Stop to take in the view on your way back down to the bottom of the ravine. You can see Omkareshwar (also called Godarpura) and the Satpura mountains that surround

South Mandhata.

At the bottom of the ravine the walking path begins to ascend up the second hillside. Sometimes referred to as the “stairway to Mandhata Hill”. The stairway is steep,

passing local huts and the lower fort wall gate.

As you look up the stairway you will see both the lower gate and the top of the Chand-Suraj Gate at the top of the hill.

In the remains of the lower gate archway you can still see the carvings on the stone support columns. Once again, gate and wall constructed from quarried stones with

no mortar.

At the top of Mandhata Hill is the Chand-Suraj Gate, made of yellow and red stones. This particular gate is a protected monument like so many ancient temples that reside

on the island.

Two sculptures are located on the front of the gate. The Ganesh sculpture shows wear on the stone work from centuries of decade and destruction. You will find that

many statues have been defaced, including this image of Mahishasuramardini.

This monument is very impressive with its large block stones. The archway still has fine carvings at the top of the gate. This is the largest fort gate, while much of the fort

wall no longer remains, the gate still reflects its massive size.

As the pathway continues you will come to the inner gate on Mandhata Hill called Muchukunda Dwar. It is also made of yellow and red stone like the Chand-Suraj Gate,

but much smaller in size.

The walking path will lead you to find the Ashapuri Mandira. Regular Puja is performed at this small renovated temple which holds the family deity of tribals and Rao family.

There are two building located at this site, the second building is used today for a voting place for local residences of the island.

Two statues are located here worth seeing, the Goddess Narmada sitting on a lotus flower that riding on the back of a crocodile.

The Jaya Shri Dadaji statue is a family diety greeting, “hail to Great Grandfather”.Continue our journey along the walking path towards the eastern side of island.

The Siddhnath is one of the most impressive temples on the island. Located on the top of the eastern plateau this medieval Brahmanic architecture stands out like no other

temple located on the island.

The eloquently carved stone columns made of yellow sandstone show the discoloration done by pollution as they stand so bolding some 14’ high on each side of the

central shrine.

The four entrances to the central shrine with its elaborate sculptures above the doorways and its ominous presence greet you as you walk towards the central shrine.

A closer look at the ornate stone work reveals small statues with the faces sadly destroyed but the fine details put into these carvings are still exquisite to look upon.

Inside the shrine the linga cell is found in the center of the room on a stone slate altar. There are many stone statues surrounding the walls of this very plain shrine which is such a contrast to the outside. Many of these statues where found just lying around

the grounds and were collected and stored inside for now.

The Siddhnath temple has 50 elephants in various positions surrounding the platform. Two of the best elephants now guard the gate of the Nagpur Museum in Nagpur.

Each elephant is 5’ high, in various playful poses as if performing tricks. Once again we see the mutilation of the elephant trunks from 13th century invaders.

The Siddhnath temple once had a dome roof which was destroyed and replaced with the current flat roof. Some say the temple was never completed. One must use your

imagination to picture what this inspiring temple looked like with a dome top.

From the Siddhnath temple we continue our journey on the east side of the island, walking down towards the Bhim Arjun Gate and the watch tower.

The southern gate of Mandhata is built with no mortar, the pointed archway being different from the other gate entrances on the island is of an older Hindu style. The

pratoli (the watch tower) of the Mandhata fort stands above the gate looking out over the eastern confluence.

The outer wall of the Bhim Arjun gate has two colorful statues, both from the 12th century. The first statue is Bhimeshvara Shiva, the second statue Bhamarjuna Dvara

is wrongly interpreted as Arjun by locals. These ancient statues are in need of preservation and protection from erosion.

The statue of Katyaysni also known by some people as Kunti Mata is located here and is not mentioned often but is worth viewing, 12th century A.D.

As we return to the walking path we begin our descent down the steep staircase on the eastern bluffs. There is a beautiful view of the eastern confluence (where the

Kaveri crosses to the north of the island) and the temple ruins at the sacrificial place.

One must still make way for the sacred cow laying in the only shade to be found.

On the eastern side of the island, legend is that human sacrifices took place to appease Kal Bhairao, a form of Shiva. While these sacrifices no longer take place (ending in

1824 under British rule) the remains of the temple at the Veer Khala Rock are still here.

This view of the eastern confluence shows the dirt walking path that leads to the bluffs. One can see the parting of the rivers, to the north runs the Kaveri, to the south runs

the Narmada.

We have come to the last staircase leading down to the waterfront. Beautiful red flowers (I think they’re Bougainvillea) grow naturally along the rocky cliffs bringing

color to the rocky bluffs.

As you descend, stop a moment for this view of the greenish stone slate banks of the Narmada river.

The final walk along the waterfront will bring you towards the ending point of the journey. There you will find our last stop the Gupteshwar Cave.

Inside you will be able to see the tree trunk crossing above the linga in the cave.

As you make the final climb up the stairway to the village the King’s palace stands boldly to the left. Conclude this walking journey by arriving at the stairway leading up

to the village and main temple.

For much needed nourishment or drink after this long journey, go back to the main market to find this quaint restaurant amongst the kiosks. After drink and food you will enjoy shopping for souvenirs while walking past the many shops in the market area to

go back across the bridge.

If time permits, you should return back to the main village of Omkareshwar and continue east for a closer visit of Annapurna Ashram Ghnat and the Virat Svarupa statue.

A special thanks to Tej Swami Anand for his blessing and graciousness, my host for providing lodging as well as transportation and a local Indore photographer who

accompanied us. Between our photographs, I hope to have captured some of the beauty that Omkara Mandhata offers the world.

We leave this sacred island of Omkara Mandhata with its mystical aura and spiritual attraction, a “Paradise for Pilgrims”.