american cooking_ the northwest - time-life foods of the world recipes - unknown

'Rgipes J[merican Gooking; CJhe �thwest

. CJoods of the 'World

!TIME I •••:.• BDDKB

CJ<gipes J[merican Gooking.· CJhe �thwest

Gontents

Soups and Appetizers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Salads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 Shellfish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6 Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 3 Poultry and Game Birds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3 Meat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4 Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 4 Bread and Pancakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Pickles and Preserves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 06 Desserts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 4 Recipe Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 4 3

Illustrations : How to Shape a Swedish Cherry Twist . . . . . . . 1 0 3 How to Shape a Cinnamon Wreath . . . . . . . . . . 1 04

c;}oods of the 'World

TIME-LIFE BOOKS, ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA

© 1970 Time-Life Books Inc. All rights reserved. No parr of this book may be

reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including

information storage and retrieval devices or systems, without prior written permission from the publisher, except that brief passages may be quoted for

reviews. Fifth priming. Revised 1982. Printed in U.S.A. Published simulta

neously in Canada.

IOUII A 6111111111

Corn and Clam Chowder

To serve 6 to 8

V-i cup diced lean salt pork 1 Y2 cups finely chopped onions 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 1 medium-sized boiling potato,

peeled and cut into ;.2-inch dice (about 1 cup )

2 cups water 1 8 small hard-shell clams, shucked

and drained, with their liquor reserved (about � cup ) , or substitute 18 canned mediumsized clams with their juices

2 cups light cream

1 Y2 cups fresh corn kernels, cut from about 3 large ears of corn, or substitute 1 Y2 cups canned or frozen corn kernels, drained and thoroughly defrosted if frozen

Ys teaspoon thyme 1 teaspoon salt V-i teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 2 tablespoons unsalted butter,

softened Ys teaspoon paprika 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Fry the pork dice in a heavy 2- to 3-quart casserole over high heat for about 3 minutes, turning them about with a slotted spoon. When a thin film of fat covers the bottom of the casserole, stir in the onions and garlic and reduce the heat to moderate. Stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, or until the pork dice and onions are a golden brown. Watch carefully for any sign of burning and regulate the heat accordingly.

Stir in the diced potato and water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for about 1 5 minutes, until the potatoes are tender but not falling apart. Add the clams and their liquid, the cream, corn and thyme, and continue to s immer for 2 or 3 minutes longer; do not allow the chowder to come to a boil . Stir in the salt, pepper and butter, taste for seasoning, and serve at once, sprinkled with paprika and parsley.

2

Bean Chowder

To serve 8 to 10

2 quarts water 2 cups ( 1 pound) dried Great

Northern, marrow or pea beans 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cups finely chopped onions Y2 cup finely chopped celery 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic 6 cups chicken stock, fresh or

canned

2 twelve-ounce smoked ham hocks 6 medium-sized firm ripe tomatoes,

peeled, seeded and finely chopped (see lingcod with garlic and tomatoes, page 3 1 ), or substitute 2 cups chopped drained canned tomatoes

2 whole cloves 1 medium-sized bay leaf Freshly ground black pepper

Bring the water to a boil over high heat in a heavy 6- to 8-quart casserole. Drop in the beans and boil them briskly for 2 minutes. (The water should cover the beans by at least 1 inch ; add more if necessary. ) Turn off the heat and let the beans soak for 1 hour, then drain them through a sieve into a bowl and return the beans to the casserole. Add 4 cups of the cooking liquid to the beans.

In a heavy 10-inch skillet, warm the oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Add the onions, celery and garlic ; stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft but not brown.

With a rubber spatula, scrape the entire contents of the skillet into the casserole. Add the chicken stock, ham hocks, tomatoes, cloves , bay leaf and a few grindings of pepper. Mix well and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan partially, and simmer for 2 hours, or until the ham is tender and shows no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a thin skewer or sharp knife.

Transfer the ham hocks to a plate and, when they are cool enough to handle, remove the skin, fat and bones . Cut the meat into Y<l-inch cubes and set it aside. Pick out and discard the bay leaf, then with the back of a spoon rub the contents of the casserole through a fine sieve into a deep bowl, or puree the mixture through the finest blade of a food mill. Skim as much fat as possible from the surface of the soup ; taste for seasoning.

Return the soup to the casserole, add the cubed ham and bring to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring from time to time. Serve at once from a heated tureen or in individual soup plates.

3

Dungeness Crabmeat Bisque

To serve 6

4 tablespoons butter � cup finely chopped onions � cup finely chopped celery 2 tablespoons flour � teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon salt Ys teaspoon ground white pepper 2 cups milk

2 cups heavy cream 1 pound (about 2 cups ) freshly

cooked or frozen Dungeness crabmeat, defrosted if frozen, drained and picked over to remove all bits of shell and cartilage

;..4 cup pale dry sherry

In a heavy 2- to 3 -quart saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the onions and celery and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft but not brown. Add the flour, paprika, salt and pepper, and mix well. Then, stirring the mixture constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the milk and cream in a slow, thin stream and cook briskly until the mixture comes to a boil and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 3 minutes to remove any taste of raw flour.

Stir in the crabmeat and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes longer to heat it through. Add 1 tablespoon of the sherry, taste and add as much of the remaining sherry as you like. Serve the bisque at once from a heated tureen or in individual soup plates .

Cold Lentil Soup

To serve 8 to 10

2 tablespoons butter 1 cup finely chopped onions 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 2 quarts chicken stock, fresh or

canned 2 cups ( 1 pound) dried lentils 1 medium-sized firm ripe tomato,

chopped and pureed through a

sieve or food mill, or substitute � cup canned tomato puree

� teaspoon crumbled dried basil Freshly ground black pepper 2 hard-cooked eggs, finely chopped � cup finely sliced or chopped red

radishes � cup finely chopped scallions

(optional )

In a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the onions and garlic and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Stir in the chicken stock, lentils, pureed tomato, basil and

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a few grindings of pepper, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for 1 hour.

Rub the soup through a fine sieve into a bowl with the back of a spoon, or put it through the finest blade of a food mill . Cool to room temperature, cover with foil or plastic wrap, and refrigerate the soup for at least 2 hours, or until it is thoroughly chilled.

To serve, ladle the soup into a chilled tureen or individual soup plates. Mound the chopped hard-cooked eggs , radishes and scallions ( if used ) attractively in separate bowls and present them with the soup.

Spinach Soup

To serve 6 to 8

2 quarts chicken stock, fresh or canned

2 pounds fresh spinach, washed and coarsely chopped

4 tablespoons butter Yz teaspoon finely chopped garlic 1 cup finely chopped onions Y8 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon salt � teapoon white pepper 2 hard-cooked eggs, finely chopped

In a 3 - to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil over high heat. Add the spinach, reduce the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for 7 to 8 minutes. Then pour the contents of the pan into a sieve set over a large bowl. Press down hard on the spinach with the back of a wooden spoon to extract all of its j uices . Set the stock and the drained spinach aside separately.

Melt the butter in the saucepan and stir in the garlic and onions. Cook over moderate heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onions are soft and translucent. Add the reserved chicken-spinach stock and bring to a boil, then stir in the spinach, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Partially cover the pan and simmer the soup over low heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste for seasoning and serve at once from a heated tureen or individual soup bowls, garnished with chopped egg.

5

Mushroom-and-Potato Soup

To serve 8 to 10

6 tablespoons butter 1 Y2 pounds firm fresh mushrooms,

wiped with a dampened towel, trimmed, and cut lengthwise, including the stems, into Ysinch-thick slices

1 cup finely chopped onions 6 cups chicken stock, fresh or

canned 6 small boiling potatoes (about

1 Y2 pounds ) , peeled and cut into

Y-1-inch slices 1 teaspoon salt Y-1 cup finely chopped celery Y-1 cup finely chopped scallions,

including the green tops 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh

parsley 1 cup sour cream 1 tablespoon finely cut fresh dill

leaves Freshly ground black pepper

In a heavy 4- to 5-quart enameled or stainless-steel casserole, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the mushrooms and onions, and stir until they are evenly coated with the butter . Reduce the heat to low, partially cover the casserole, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Stir in the chicken stock, potato slices and salt, and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and simmer for about 25 minutes longer, or until the potato slices are tender but still intact.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a heavy 8-to 1 0-inch skillet. When the foam begins to subside, add the celery, scallions and parsley and, stirring frequently, cook uncovered over low heat for about 15 minutes, until the celery is tender but not brown.

In a small bowl, combine the sour cream with about Y2 cup of the simmering mushroom soup stock and mix well. Stirring constantly, pour the sour-cream mixture into the skillet gradually and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat.

Add the entire contents of the skillet to the mushroom soup and stir together gently but thoroughly. Taste for seasoning. Then pour the soup into a heated tureen or individual soup plates, sprinkle with the dill and a few grindings of pepper, and serve at once.

6

Shad-Roe Pate

To make about 2Y:z cups

2 pairs shad roe (about 1 Y:z pounds )

Y:z cup plus 2 tablespoons flour 4 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 tablespoons finely chopped onions 1 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon

juice

Y:z teaspoon finely chopped garlic Y4 teaspoon celery seeds Y4 teaspoon crumbled dried

marj oram Y4 teaspoon crumbled dried

tarragon Ys teaspoon crumbled dried basil 1 teaspoon salt

Wash the roe under cold running water and pat them completely dry with paper towels . With scissors or a small, sharp knife, slit the membranes connecting the pairs of roe. Roll the roe gently in Y:z cup of flour to coat them evenly, then shake gently to remove the excess flour.

In a heavy 8-inch skillet, melt the butter with the oil over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the roe and cook them for about 6 minutes on each side, turning them with a slotted spatula and regulating the heat so that they color richly without burning. Transfer the roe to a bowl and, with the back of a table fork, mash them to a smooth but granular paste.

Add the onions to the fat remaining in the skillet and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of flour and mix well . Then, stirring the mixture constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the cream in a slow, thin stream and cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil, thickens heavily and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 3 minutes. Beat in the lemon j uice, garlic, celery seeds, marjoram, tarragon, basil and salt, and taste for seasoning.

Add the sauce to the mashed roe and, with a wooden spoon, beat until the mixture is smooth. Cool to room temperature, cover tightly with foil or plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or until thoroughly chilled . Serve the shad-roe pate as a first course, accompanied by crisp crackers or warm toast.

7

Marinated Fiddle head Ferns

To serve 10 as a first course or 8 as a salad

3 cups water S tablespoons wine vinegar 3 tablespoons strained fresh lemon

juice � cup vegetable oil 2 medium-sized celery stalks,

trimmed of all leaves and finely chopped

1 teaspoon coriander seeds,

1 teaspoon fennel seeds and 6 whole black peppercorns, wrapped together in cheesecloth

1 � teaspoons salt 3 cups fresh fiddlehead ferns,

thoroughly washed and trimmed, or substitute two 10-ounce packages frozen fiddlehead ferns, thoroughly defrosted and drained

In a 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine the water, vinegar, lemon j uice, oil, celery, the cheesecloth bag of coriander, fennel and peppercorns, and the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low. Stir in the fiddleheads and simmer partially covered for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the ferns are tender.

Remove and discard the bag of coriander, fennel and peppercorns . Drain the fi.ddleheads and celery in a sieve or colander and place them in a serving bowl. Cool to room temperature, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.

Marinated Oysters

To serve 4 as a first course

2 dozen fresh medium-sized shucked oysters and their liquor

1 medium-sized onion, thinly sliced in rings (about � cup)

1 lemon, sliced crosswise into paper-thin slices

� cup white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon mixed pickling spice 1 teaspoon salt Ys teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper Y<l cup finely chopped fresh parsley Y<! cup olive oil

Place the shucked oysters and their liquor in a 1 0- to 1 2-inch skillet and cook uncovered over moderate heat for 2 or 3 minutes, until the oysters are plump and their edges begin to curl . Immediately pour the contents of the pan into a fine sieve set over a large bowl and let the oysters drain. Set the liquid aside. Arrange the oysters in a glass or enameled dish just

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large enough to hold them in one layer, and scatter the onion and lemon slices evenly over the top.

In a 1 - to 1 ¥2-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine the vinegar, drained oyster liquor and pickling spice, and bring to a boil over high heat. Then reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered about 8 minutes . Strain the mixture through a fine sieve, discard the spices, and let the liquid cool to room temperature before pouring it over the oysters . Sprinkle them with the salt, pepper, parsley and olive oil, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for two days before serving.

Marinated Mushrooms


1 pound firm fresh mushroom caps, each about 1 inch in diameter

1 cup dry white wine 1 lemon 1 � cups olive oil 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce 2 teaspoons salt Y8 teapoon freshly ground black

pepper 3 tablespoons finely chopped onions 1 tablespoon very finely chopped

garlic 3 whole cloves 1 medium-sized bay leaf 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh

parsley

Make the marinated mushrooms at least 2 days before you intend to serve them. Wipe the mushroom caps with a dampened kitchen towel and drop them into a deep bowl . Pour in the wine and turn the mushrooms about with a spoon to coat them evenly. Cover with foil or plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for about 1 hour.

With a small, sharp knife, score the lemon by cutting V-shaped grooves, about Y8 inch wide and Y8 inch deep, from one end of the lemon to the other and spaced about ¥2 inch apart. Then slice the lemon crosswise into V<l-inch-thick rounds.

In a mixing bowl, beat the olive oil, Tabasco sauce, salt and pepper together with a wire whisk. Add the onions and garlic and stir well, then drop in the lemon slices, cloves and bay leaf. Drain the wine from the mushroom caps and in its place add the oil mixture . Turn the caps about gently with a spoon until they are evenly coated.

Transfer the entire contents of the bowl to a wide-mouthed 1 -quart jar or crock equipped with a tight-fitting lid. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 days . Sprinkle with parsley before serving. The mushrooms can safely be kept in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 weeks.

9

Lentil Salad

To serve 6

SALAD

2 teaspoons salt 1 cup dried lentils Y2 cup finely chopped onions Y-1 cup finely chopped scallions,

including 2 inches of the green tops

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh

parsley Y2 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Y2 teaspoon W orcestershire sauce Ys teaspoon Tabasco sauce Y2 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 6 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil

In a heavy 2- to 3 -quart saucepan, bring 1 quart of water and 1 teaspoon of the salt to a boil over high heat. Drop in the lentils, reduce the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for 20 to 30 minutes , or until the lentils are tender but still intact. Drain them in a sieve or colander, spread them on a double thickness of paper towels and pat them completely dry. Transfer the lentils to a large serving bowl and stir in the chopped onions, scallions, 2 tablespoons of parsley and the garlic.

Combine the vinegar, Worcestershire, Tabasco, pepper and the remaining teaspoon of salt in a small bowl and mix well with a wire whisk. Beating constantly with the whisk, pour in the oil in a thin stream and continue to beat until the dressing is smooth . Pour the dressing over the lentil mixture and, with a fork, toss the salad ingredients together gently but thoroughly. Cover tightly with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate the lentil salad for at least 30 minutes .

GARNISH

1 small red onion, peeled, cut crosswise into Ys- inch-thick slices and separated into rings

3 hard-cooked eggs, cut crosswise into Ys-inch-thick slices

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

Just before serving, stir the salad briefly and arrange the onion rings and egg slices attractively on top . Sprinkle the salad with the remaining 2 tablespoons of parsley and serve at once.

10

Mayonnaise

To make about 1 ;.2 cups

3 egg yolks ;.2 teaspoon dry mustard ;.2 teaspoon salt Y8 teaspoon ground white pepper 1 ;.2 cups olive oil or vegetable oil

or a combination of both 1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon

j uice or wine vinegar 2 tablespoons boiling water

(optional )

Warm a large mixing bowl in hot water, dry it quickly but thoroughly, and drop in the egg yolks . With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the yolks vigorously for about 2 minutes , until they thicken and cling to the beater. Stir in the mustard, salt and white pepper. Beat in ;.2

cup of the oil, ;.2 teaspoon at a time ; make sure each addition is absorbed before adding more. By the time ;.2 cup of oil has been beaten in, the mayonnaise should have the consistency of very thick cream.

Beating constantly, pour in the remaining cup of oil in a slow, thin stream. Stir in the lemon j uice or vinegar and taste for seasoning. To make the mayonnaise creamier and lessen the danger of separating, beat in the boiling water, 1 tablespoon at a time. Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to use. The mayonnaise can safely be kept in the refrigerator for approximately 2 weeks.

Blue-Cheese Salad Dressing

To make about ;.2 cup

3 tablespoons blue cheese, softened 2 tablespoons heavy cream 1 small garlic clove, peeled and

finely chopped

6 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil or a combination of both

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar ;.2 teaspoon salt

Crumble the blue cheese into a small bowl, add the cream, and mash and stir the mixture into a smooth paste with a fork.

Drop the chopped garlic into a separate bowl and, with the back of a wooden spoon, crush it to a puree. Add the oil, vinegar and salt, and beat vigorously with a wire whisk until the mixture is smooth . Add the bluecheese mixture, a tablespoon at a time. When the ingredients are thoroughly combined, taste for seasoning and serve.

1 1

Green Bean Salad

To serve 4 to 6

1 Y2 teaspoons salt 1 pound fresh green string beans,

trimmed and washed 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar Y2 teaspoon dry mustard

Freshly ground black pepper Y2 cup olive oil 12 firm ripe cherry tomatoes 1 large red onion, peeled and cut

crosswise into Ys-inch-thick slices and separated into rings

Bring 3 quarts of water and Y2 teaspoon of salt to a boil in a large enameled or stainless-steel pan. Drop in the beans and boil briskly, uncovered, for about 1 0 minutes, or until they are tender but still slightly resistant to the bite. Drain the beans and transfer them to a serving bowl.

With a wire whisk, beat the vinegar, remaining salt, mustard and pepper together in a small bowl. Still whisking, slowly pour in the oil ; continue to whisk until the mixture is smooth. Pour the dressing over the beans, and add the tomatoes and onions . Toss the ingredients together lightly with a wooden spoon, then cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.

Oriental Salad

To serve 4

Y2 cup raw long-grain white rice, boiled, drained and cooled

A 6-ounce can flat anchovy fillets, drained, rinsed under cold water and coarsely chopped

Y2 cup finely chopped scallions Y2 cup finely chopped pimiento

1 firm ripe tomato, sliced Y<i inch thick and cut into Y<l-inch dice

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Y2 teaspoon dry mustard 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 6 tablespoons olive oil Chilled crisp lettuce leaves

Place the rice, chopped anchovies, scallions, p imiento and tomato in a serving bowl and toss together thoroughly with a fork.

With a wire whisk, beat the vinegar, mustard, salt and a few grindings of pepper in a small bowl until the mustard has dissolved. Add the oil gradually and continue to beat until the dressing is smooth and thick. Taste for seasoning, pour the dressing over the rice mixture, and stir with a fork until the ingredients are well combined.

1 2

For each serving, arrange several lettuce leaves to form a cup on a chilled plate and spoon the salad into the lettuce cup .

If you prefer, you may pack the salad firmly into a 2 -cup mold, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled. Just before serving, remove the plastic wrap and place an inverted plate over the mold . Grasping plate and mold together firmly, quickly turn them over. The molded salad should slide out easily. Surround with the lettuce and serve at once.

Potato Salad with Bacon Bits

To serve 6 to 8

3 pounds medium-sized boiling potatoes ( about 9), scrubbed and unpeeled

�pound bacon, cut into �-inch dice (about 1 � cups)

� cup finely chopped onions Y-1 cup white wine or cider vinegar

Y-1 cup water � teaspoon salt Y-1 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 1 teaspoon dry mustard 2 tablespoons finely cut fresh chives

Drop the potatoes into enough lightly salted boiling water to cover them completely, and boil briskly, uncovered, until they show only slight res istance when pierced with the point of a sharp knife. Do not overcook. Drain the potatoes in a colander, peel and cut them into Y<l-inch-thick slices . Set aside in a large bowl and cover tightly with foil .

In a heavy 8-inch skillet, fry the bacon over moderate heat until brown and crisp. With a slotted spoon, transfer the dice to paper towels to drain. Add the onions to the fat remaining in the pan and stir over moderate heat until they are soft and golden. Add the vinegar, water, salt, pepper and mustard and bring the sauce to a boil . Pour the hot sauce over the potatoes, turning the slices with a rubber spatula to coat them evenly. Stir in the bacon and chives and taste for seasoning. Serve at once.

1 3

King Crab Salad Ring

To serve 8

2 cups water !1.1 cup finely chopped shallots 2 cups fresh watercress leaves,

tightly packed }1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley 2 teaspoons crumbled dried

tarragon 4 teaspoons unflavored gelatin 3 egg yolks 4 teaspoons dry mustard 2 teaspoons salt !1.1 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 }1 cups olive oil 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon

juice 1}1 pounds freshly cooked king

crab meat, cut into l-inch chunks, or substitute 1 }1 pounds thoroughly defrosted and drained frozen or canned king-crab meat, cut into l-inch chunks

}1 cup finely chopped celery Bibb or Boston lettuce (garnish) Watercress (garnish)

Bring 1 }1 cups of the water to a boil in a small saucepan, drop in the shallots, and cook briskly for 2 minutes . Stir in the watercress, parsley and tarragon, and boil for 1 minute longer. Drain the herbs through a fine sieve, pressing down hard with the back of a spoon to extract all their j uices, and discard the j uices and cooking water. Chop the drained herbs fine with a knife, then puree them through a food mill into a bowl.

Pour the remaining }1 cup of water into a heatproof measuring cup, sprinkle in the gelatin, and let it soften for 2 or 3 minutes. Then set the cup in a skillet of s immering water and, stirring constantly, cook over low heat until the gelatin dissolves completely. Remove the cup from the heat and let the gelatin cool to room temperature.

Warm a large mixing bowl in hot water, dry it quickly but thoroughly, and drop in the egg yolks . With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the yolks vigorously for about 2 minutes, until they thicken and cling to the beater. Stir in the mustard, salt and white pepper. Beat in }1

cup of the oil, }1 teaspoon at a time; make sure each addition is absorbed before adding more. By the time the }1 cup of oil has been beaten in, the mayonnaise should be the consistency of very thick cream. Beating constantly, pour in the remaining oil in a slow, thin stream. Stir in the vinegar and lemon j uice, and taste for seasoning. Then incorporate the herb puree and mix in the cooled but still fluid gelatin.

Fold in the crabmeat and celery thoroughly, and ladle the mixture into a 1-quart ring mold, spreading it and smoothing the top with a spatula. Cover with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or until the salad is thoroughly chilled and firm to the touch.

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Just before serving, unmold the salad ring in the following fashion : Run a long, thin knife around the edges of the mold to loosen the sides and dip the bottom briefly in hot water. Invert a chilled serving plate on top of the mold and, grasping plate and mold together firmly, turn over. Rap the plate on a table and the mold should slide out easily.

Arrange lettuce leaves around the mold and fill the center of the ring with watercress . Serve at once. If you like, you may further garnish the salad with chunks of cold crabmeat.

Great Northern Bean Salad

To serve 1 0

2 cups dried Great Northern beans, or 5 cups canned white beans

2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic 2 teaspoons prepared mustard 1 teaspoon salt Y<l teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 6 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup coarsely chopped celery 1 cup finely chopped sweet gherkin

pickles 1 cup finely chopped red onions 1 cup sour cream 2 cups freshly made mayonnaise

If you plan to use canned beans, drain them of all their canning liquid, wash them thoroughly under cold running water, drain again and pat dry with paper towels . If you plan to cook the beans yourself, place them in a large saucepan and pour in enough cold water to cover them by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil, let them boil for 2 minutes, then turn off the heat and let the beans soak for 1 hour. Bring back to a boil, lower the heat, partially cover the pan, and simmer as slowly as possible for 1 Y2 hours, or until the beans are tender but still intact. Drain the beans in a fine sieve and place them in a large bowl.

With a wire whisk, beat the garlic, mustard, salt, pepper and vinegar together in a small bowl. Add the oil gradually and continue to beat until the dressing is smooth and thick. Pour over the beans, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours .

Taste for seasoning. Just before serving, gently fold in the celery, p ickles, onions, sour cream and mayonnaise.

1 5

Deviled Dungeness Crab

To serve4

2 tablespoons butter, softened, plus 1 2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled

Y-1 cup heavy cream 1 Y2 teaspoons dry mustard Ground hot red pepper ( cayenne ) Y2 teaspoon salt 1 pound (about 2 cups ) freshly

cooked or frozen Dungeness crabmeat, defrosted if frozen, drained and thoroughly picked over to remove all bits of

cartilage, then cut into Yz -inch bits

1 cup finely chopped celery 1 cup finely chopped onions 2 tablespoons finely chopped green

bell pepper 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh

parsley 1 Yz cups coarse crumbs made from

unsalted soda crackers spread between 2 strips of wax paper and crushed with a rolling pin

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the 2 tablespoons of softened butter evenly over the bottom and sides of a 1 Yz-quart baking-serving dish.

Combine the cooled, melted butter, the cream, mustard, a few grains of red pepper and the salt in a deep bowl and stir until the mustard has dissolved. Mix in the crabmeat, celery, onions, green pepper and parsley, then add the crumbs and toss the ingredients gently but thoroughly.

Ladle the crab mixture into the buttered dish and smooth the top with a spatula. Bake in the upper third of the oven for 30 minutes, or until the top is golden brown. Serve at once, directly from the baking dish.

1 6

Hot Crab Sandwich

To make 2 open-face sandwiches

2 tablespoons butter Y-1 cup flour ;..2 teaspoon plus Y-1 teaspoon dry

mustard 1 cup milk 1 ;..2 cups (V3 pound) freshly

grated Cheddar cheese 1 teaspoon W orcestershire sauce Ys teaspoon ground hot red pepper

( cayenne ) 1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon freshly made mayonnaise (page 1 1 ), or substitute bottled unsweetened mayonnaise

6 ounces fresh or frozen Dungeness crabmeat, drained and picked over to remove all bits of shell and cartilage

4 slices hot toast made from homemade-type white bread trimmed of all crusts

Preheat the broiler to its highest setting. In a heavy 1 -quart saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. When the foam subsides, add the flour and ;..2 teaspoon of the dry mustard and mix together to a smooth paste. Stirring constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the milk in a slow, thin stream and cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil, thickens heavily and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes to remove the taste of flour.

Add the grated cheese, ;..2 teaspoon of the Worcestershire sauce, the red pepper and salt, and whisk constantly until the cheese melts completely . Remove the pan from the heat, and taste for seasoning.

Combine the mayonnaise, the remaining ;..2 teaspoon of Worcestershire and Y-1 teaspoon of mustard in a deep bowl . Mix well, then add the crabmeat and turn the crab about until it is thoroughly coated . Spread the crab mixture smoothly over the toast, dividir1g it evenly among the slices .

Place two slices of toast side by side on each of two ovenproof plates or shallow baking-serving dishes and pour the cheese sauce over them. Broil 4 inches from the heat for about 1 minute, or until the top is delicately browned. Serve at once.

1 7

Corn and Clam Sou/fie

To serve 6

1 cup freshly shucked or canned minced clams, drained, with liquor reserved

;..2 to % cup milk 4 tablespoons unsalted butter � cup finely chopped onions 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour 5 egg yolks 2 tablespoons finely chopped

pimiento 1 teaspoon salt Ys teaspoon cayenne 6 eggwhites 1 ;..2 cups corn kernels, cut from

about 3 large ears, or substitute 1 ;..2 cups canned or frozen kernels, drained and thoroughly defrosted if frozen

With a large, sharp knife, chop the clams as fine as possible and set them aside. Strain the clam liquor through a fine sieve lined with a double thickness of cheesecloth. Measure the liquor, add enough milk to make 1 cup, then pour into a small saucepan and place over moderate heat. When bubbles appear around the edge of the pan, remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 400 ° . With a pastry brush, coat the bottom and sides of a 2 -quart souffle dish with 1 tablespoon of the butter . Melt the remaining butter in a heavy 1 ;..2 - to 2-quart saucepan, add the onions, and cook over moderate heat for about 3 minutes, until the onions are soft but not brown. Off the heat, mix in 4 tablespoons of the flour and stir the mixture to a smooth paste. Add the lukewarm milk-and-clam-liquor mixture all at once and beat vigorously with a whisk. Cook over moderate heat, whisking constantly, until the sauce is smooth and very thick. Remove the pan from the heat and, one at a time, beat in the egg yolks . Stir· in the pimiento, salt, cayenne and chopped clams, and taste for seasoning.

In a separate bowl, preferably one of unlined copper, beat the egg whites with a large whisk or a rotary or electric beater until they are stiff enough to form unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted out of the bowl. Stir 3 heaping tablespoons of the whites into the clam sauce. Toss the corn with the remaining tablespoon of flour and stir it into the sauce. With a rubber spatula, gently but thoroughly fold in the remaining egg whites until no white streaks show. Be careful not to overfold .

Pour the mixture into the souffle dish and smooth the top with a spatula. Reduce the oven heat to 3 7 5o and bake the souffle undisturbed in the center of the oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until it is puffed and lightly brown on top. Serve at once.

18

Razor-Clam Cakes

To make about 1 0 cakes

2 eggs 1 teaspoon dry mustard Y2 teaspoon crumbled thyme 2 or 3 drops Tabasco or Pickapeppa

sauce Y2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 cups finely chopped fresh, frozen

or canned razor clams, thoroughly drained

� cup finely chopped onions �cup finely chopped fresh parsley 4 cups soft fresh crumbs made from

homemade-type white bread, pulverized in a blender or finely shredded with a fork

6 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 lemon cut into 4 or 8 wedges

In a deep bowl, beat the eggs, mustard, thyme, Tabasco or Pickapeppa, salt and a few grindings of pepper together with a fork or wire whisk until the ingredients are well combined. Stir in the clams, onions and parsley, then 2 Y2 cups of the crumbs . Taste for seasoning. Divide the razorclam mixture into 10 equal portions and pat and shape each portion into a round cake about 3 inches in diameter and Y2 inch thick. Spread the remaining 1 Y2 cups of bread crumbs on a plate and turn the cakes in the crumbs to coat both sides evenly. Arrange the clam cakes on wax paper and refrigerate for at least 1 5 minutes to firm the crumb coating.

Preheat the oven to its lowest setting. Line a large shallow baking dish with paper towels and place it in the middle of the oven.

In a heavy 10- to 1 2 -inch skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter with 1 tablespoon of the oil over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, place 3 or 4 clam cakes in the hot fat and fry them for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, or until they are golden brown. Regulate the heat so that the cakes color evenly without burning, and add the remaining butter and oil by the tablespoonful when necessary. As the cakes brown, transfer them to the lined pan and keep them warm in the oven while you fry the rest .

Arrange the clam cakes attractively on a heated platter and serve at once, accompanied by the lemon wedges .

1 9

Oyster Pan Roast


1 2 tablespoons butter, cut into bits 1 2 medium-sized oysters, shucked,

with Y2 cup of their liquor reserved

4 teaspoons W orcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce 4 slices hot buttered toast, made

from homemade-type white bread trimmed of all crusts

In a heavy 8- to 1 0-inch skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat, stirring frequently to prevent it from browning. When the foam begins to subside, stir in the oyster liquor, Worcestershire and Tabasco, and bring the mixture to a boil . Add the oysters and turn them about gently with a wooden spoon for 2 or 3 minutes, or until they plump up and their edges begin to curl.

Place the toast on four individual heated serving plates and spoon 3 oysters onto each slice . Taste the sauce remaining in the skillet for seasoning and pour it over the oysters, dividing it evenly among them. Serve the oyster pan roast at once.

Oysters Meuniere


10 tablespoons butter, cut into bits 1 2 shucked medium-sized oysters,

thoroughly defrosted if frozen Y2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper � cup flour 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 slices hot white toast, trimmed of

crusts � cup finely chopped fresh parsley 1 lemon, cut into 4 or 8 wedges

Melt 8 tablespoons of the butter in a small saucepan or skillet set over low heat, stirring frequently until the butter turns a nutlike brown. Do not let the butter burn . Remove the pan from the heat and cover to keep the butter warm.

Spread the oysters on paper towels and pat them completely dry. Then sprinkle the oysters with the salt and a few grindings of pepper, dip them one at a time into the flour and vigorously shake off the excess . In a heavy 10- to 1 2-inch skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter bits with the oil over moderate heat. Add the oysters and, turning them frequently with a slotted spatula, fry for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until they are plump and golden and their edges begin to curl .

Immediately, place a slice of toast on each of four heated individual

20

plates . Arrange the fried oysters on top, pour the brown butter over them, sprinkle them with the parsley and garnish the plates with lemon wedges. Serve at once.

Deviled Oysters

To serve 4

6 tablespoons butter, melted 1 egg 1 cup soft fresh crumbs made from

homemade-type white bread

2 tablespoons dry mustard Y4 cup cold water 24 shucked medium-sized oysters,

thoroughly defrosted if frozen, then drained and patted dry

Preheat the broiler to its highest setting. With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the melted butter evenly over the bottom of a shallow baking-serving dish large enough to hold the oysters in one layer. In a shallow bowl, beat the egg l ightly with a fork or wire whisk. Spread the crumbs over a sheet of wax paper and set aside.

Combine the mustard and water in a heavy 6- to 8-inch skillet and stir to a smooth paste. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, then drop in the oysters and turn them gently about for 2 to 3 minutes, until they are evenly coated and their edges begin to curl . With a slotted spoon, transfer the oysters to a plate .

When the oysters are cool enough to handle, immerse them one at a time in the beaten egg, then roll them in the bread crumbs. Arrange the oysters side by side in the buttered dish and dribble half of the remaining butter over their tops .

Broil the oysters 3 to 4 inches from the heat for about 30 seconds, until they brown lightly. Turn them over, pour on the remaining melted butter, and broil 30 seconds longer. Serve at once, from the baking dish.

Mignonette Sauce

To make about Y2 cup

Y2 cup white distilled vinegar 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons white pepper,

preferably freshly ground 2 tablespoons finely chopped

shallots

Combine the vinegar, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl, and beat with a wire whisk or a spoon until the salt dissolves completely. Stir in the shallots, then taste for seasoning and serve at once.

Mignonette sauce is served as an accompaniment to oysters or clams on the half shell .

2 1

Remoulade Sauce

To make about 1 cup

1 cup mayonnaise, freshly made (page 1 1 ) or bottled

2 teaspoons prepared mustard Y<! teaspoon anchovy paste 2 medium-sized garlic cloves, peeled

and very finely chopped 1 tablespoon capers, drained and

rinsed in a sieve under cold water 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh

parsley 2 teaspoons finely cut tarragon, or

substitute 1 teaspoon crumbled dried tarragon

1 hard-cooked egg, finely chopped

Combine the mayonnaise, mustard and anchovy paste in a deep bowl, and beat vigorously with a spoon until they are thoroughly blended. Stir in the garlic, capers, parsley and tarragon, then gently fold in the chopped egg. Taste for seasoning.

Remoulade sauce may be served as an accompaniment to oysters or clams on the half shell.

Spicy Tomato Sauce

To make about 2 Y2 cups

Y3 cup olive or vegetable oil or a combination of the two

3 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice

2 or 3 drops Tabasco or Pickapeppa sauce

1 tablespoon dry mustard 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon white pepper, preferably

freshly ground 6 medium-sized firm ripe tomatoes,

peeled, seeded and finely chopped (see lingcod with garlic and tomatoes, page 31)

Y2 cup finely chopped green bell peppers

Y<! cup freshly grated horseradish, or substitute Y2 cup bottled horseradish, thoroughly drained and squeezed dry in a towel

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

Combine the oil, lemon j uice and Tabasco or Pickapeppa sauce in a deep bowl, and beat vigorously with a wire whisk to blend the ingredients . Add the mustard, salt and white pepper, and continue beating until smooth. Then stir in the tomatoes, green peppers, horseradish and shallots, and taste for seasoning. Serve as an accompaniment to cracked crab, or to oysters or clams on the half shell .

22

Halibut Steaks Stuffed with Tomato Sauce

To serve 4

3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 4 large firm ripe tomatoes, peeled,

seeded and coarsely chopped (see lingcod with garlic and tomatoes, page 31)

Y2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley 2 halibut steaks, each about 1 pound

and cut 1 inch thick 8 flat anchovy fillets, drained,

washed under cold running water and patted dry with paper towels

6 ripe black pitted olives, cut in half lengthwise

Preheat the oven to 400 ° . Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a heavy 10-to 1 2 -inch skillet and when the foam subsides add the chopped garlic. Cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, for about 1 minute, or until the garlic is soft but not brown. Stir in the tomatoes, raise the heat to high, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until all of the liquid has evaporated and the tomatoes have thickened enough to hold their shape loosely in a spoon. Add the salt and a few grindings of black pepper, then stir in the chopped parsley. Taste for seasoning.

With the remaining tablespoon of butter and a pastry brush, coat the bottom and sides of a baking dish j ust large enough to hold one halibut steak. Lay one steak in the dish and spread it with half of the tomato sauce. Arrange 4 of the anchovy fillets side by side on top of the sauce, and scatter half of the sliced black olives over them. Cover with the second halibut steak, spread with the remaining sauce, and arrange the remaining anchovies and black olives on top . Bake in the center of the oven for 1 5 minutes . Then, with two spatulas, transfer the fish to a hot serving platter . Pour any sauce remaining in the baking dish over the fish and serve at once.

2 3

Deep-fried Halibut Cheeks

To serve 4

1 pound halibut cheeks 1 teaspoon salt 1 egg Y2 cup milk

Y2 cup fresh crumbs made from unsalted soda crackers, pulverized in a blender or finely crushed with a rolling pin

Vegetable oil for deep frying

Pat the halibut cheeks completely dry with paper towels and sprinkle them evenly with the salt. In a small mixing bowl, beat together the egg and milk. Spread the cracker crumbs out on a sheet of wax paper and set aside.

Pour vegetable oil into a deep fryer or large, heavy saucepan to a depth of 3 inches and heat until the oil reaches a temperature of 3 7 5° on a deep-frying thermometer. Dip the halibut cheeks into the egg-and-milk mixture, then roll them in the crumbs. Fry the cheeks, 8 to 10 at a time, for 1 to 2 minutes, turning them with a slotted spoon until they are golden brown on all sides . As they brown, transfer them to paper towels to drain and similarly fry and drain the remaining cheeks . Serve at once.

Deep-fried Smelts

To serve 4

1 2 smelts ( about 1 Y2 pounds ) , cleaned, opened flat and boned, with heads and tails left on (see page 199 of the Main V olttme)

1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup flour

1 Y2 cups soft fresh crumbs made from homemade-type white bread, pulverized in a blender or finely shredded with a fork

2 eggs Vegetable oil for deep frying 1 lemon, cut into 4 or 8 wedges

Wash the smelts under cold running water and pat them dry with paper towels . Sprinkle the fish evenly with the salt and a few grindings of pepper. Spread the flour and crumbs on two separate plates and beat the eggs to a froth in a shallow bowl. Dip the smelts, one at a time, in the flour to coat both sides and shake them to remove the excess flour. Then immerse each one in the beaten eggs and roll it in the bread crumbs. Arrange the smelts side by side on wax paper and refrigerate for at least 1 5 minutes, to allow the coating to become firm.

24

Pour vegetable oil into a deep fryer or large heavy saucepan to a depth of 3 inches and heat the oil until it reaches a temperature of 3 75 ° on a deep-frying thermometer.

Deep-fry the smelts 3 or 4 at a time, turning them gently about in the hot oil for about 3 minutes, until they are crisp and golden on all sides . As they brown, transfer the fish to paper towels to drain.

Serve the deep-fried smelts while they are still hot, arranging them attractively on a heated platter or individual plates. Accompany the fish with the lemon wedges.

Cucumber and Sour-Cream Sauce

To make about 3 cups

1 large or 2 medium-sized cucumbers, peeled and cut crosswise into Ys-inch-thick slices

2 teaspoons salt 1 medium-sized onion, thinly sliced

and separated into rings 1 pint sour cream 2 tablespoons finely cut fresh dill

leaves i4 teaspoon ground hot red pepper

(cayenne)

Place the cucumber slices in a large colander and sprinkle them with salt, turning the slices about with a spoon to coat them evenly. Let the cucumber drain for at least 1 5 minutes , then spread the slices out on a double thickness of paper towels and pat them completely dry. Drop the slices into a mixing bowl and add the onion rings .

In a small bowl combine the sour cream, dill and hot red pepper, and mix well. Pour the sour-cream mixture over the cucumbers and onions and toss together gently but thoroughly. Taste for seasoning and serve in a small bowl or sauceboat. Cucumber and sour-cream sauce often accompanies fried fish .

2 5

Trout in Aspic

To serve 4

4 pounds fish trimmings : the heads, tail and bones of any firm whitefleshed fish

2 quarts water 2 medium-sized onions, peeled and

coarsely chopped 1 medium-sized bay leaf, crumbled � teaspoon crumbled dried

tarragon

2 teaspoons salt 4 ten-ounce brook trout, cleaned but

with heads and tails left on, thoroughly defrosted if frozen

4 envelopes unflavored gelatin 2 cups dry white wine 4 egg whites 4 egg shells, finely crushed

Combine the fish trimmings and water in a 5- to 6-quart enameled or stainless-steel pot. The water should cover the trimmings completely ; add more if necessary. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off the foam as it rises to the surface . Add the onions, bay leaf, tarragon and salt, reduce the heat, and simmer partially covered for 20 minutes .

Strain the contents of the pot through a fine sieve into a heavy 1 2 -inch skillet, pressing down hard on the fish trimmings to extract all their j uices before discarding them. Set the pot aside.

Let the stock cool to lukewarm, then wash the trout inside and out under cold running water and place them in the skillet. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, reduce the heat, and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes, or until the fish feel firm when prodded gently with a finger.

With a slotted spatula, arrange the trout side by side on a flat platter or j elly-roll pan. While they are still warm, skin each of the fish in the following fashion : With a small, sharp knife, cut the skin crosswise about an inch above the base of the tail and about an inch below the gill . Gently pull off the skin in strips from tail to gill, then turn the fish over and peel the upturned side. Drape a dampened kitchen towel over the trout and refrigerate them while you prepare the aspic .

Measure 6 cups of the fish stock remaining in the skillet into the reserved pot and let it cool to room temperature. Sprinkle the gelatin evenly over it and let it soften for a few minutes . Add the wine, egg whites and egg shells and, stirring constantly, bring to a boil over moderate heat. When the mixture begins to froth and rise, remove the pot from the heat and let the stock rest for 1 0 minutes . Then pour the entire contents of the pot into a fine sieve lined with a double thickness of dampened cheesecloth and set over a shallow enameled or stainless-steel pan. Allow the liquid to drain through undisturbed . Season with more salt if needed.

Set the pan in a large bowl half filled with crushed ice or ice cubes and

26

water, and stir the aspic with a metal spoon until it thickens enough to flow sluggishly off the spoon. Pour aspic to a depth of about Y4 inch into a chilled serving platter large enough to hold the four trout attractively, and refrigerate the platter until the aspic is firm.

Keep the remaining aspic at room temperature so that it remains liquid and ready to use ; if it begins to set, warm briefly over low heat to soften it, then stir it over ice again until it is thick but still fluid.

GARNISH

1 or 2 large green leaves from the top of a leek or scallion

1 medium-sized carrot, scraped and

sliced into V<!-inch-thick rounds The white of 1 hard-cooked egg 4 sprigs of watercress

Meanwhile, prepare the garnish . Drop the leek or scallion leaves into boiling water for 1 or 2 minutes. Transfer them to a sieve, run cold water over them, then spread them on paper towels and pat them dry. Cut the leaves into a dozen or more long, thin strips to use as stems.

Boil the carrot rounds briskly in the same water for about 5 minutes, until they are barely tender . Drain, run cold water over them, then spread the rounds on paper towels and pat them dry. With a lily-of-the-valley truffle cutter or with the tip of a sharp knife, make carrot flowers . Slice a Y<l -inch-thick round from the egg white and cut out four small circles from the round to cover the eyes of the trout.

Set stems, flower and egg-white circles aside, covered with wax paper . Arrange the trout on the aspic-coated platter and glaze them with a

few tablespoonfuls of the liquid aspic. Refrigerate until the glaze is firm. Dip the carrot flowers and green leaf stems into the aspic and arrange them fancifully on top of the fish . Dip the egg-white circles in the aspic and place them over the eyes. Chill again until the decorations are anchored firmly. Then carefully spoon aspic over the trout two more times, chilling the fish after each coating to set the glaze .

Melt the aspic remaining in the pan over low heat, and pour it into a small loaf pan . Refrigerate until the aspic has set firm. Run a thin knife around the edges to loosen them and dip the bottom into hot water.

Place an inverted plate over the pan and, grasping pan and plate together firmly, turn them over . The aspic should slide out easily. Cut the aspic into paper-thin sl ices, and then into fine dice. Scatter the dice around the edge of the fish platter. Garnish the top with sprigs of watercress and refrigerate the trout in the aspic until ready to serve .

2 7

Pan-fried Trout

To serve 4

4 eight-ounce rainbow, lake or mountain trout, cleaned but with heads and tails left on, thoroughly defrosted if frozen

2 teaspoons salt Y4 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper Y2 cup yellow cornmeal Y2 cup flour 3 tablespoons butter 6 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 lemon, cut into 4 or 8 wedges

Wash the trout under cold running water and pat them dry inside and out with paper towels . Sprinkle the cavities and skins of the fish evenly with the salt and pepper, and set aside. At the same time mix the cornmeal and flour together in a bowl, then spread the mixture out on a long sheet of wax paper .

In a heavy 1 2 -inch skillet, melt the butter with the oil over high heat. When the foam begins to subside, roll each trout over in the cornmeal and flour, shake off the excess coating, and place the fish in the skillet. Fry the trout for S minutes, then turn them over carefully with a wide metal spatula. Continue to fry for S to 6 minutes longer, or until the fish are golden brown and crisp.

Arrange the trout attractively on a heated platter and serve them at once, accompanied by the lemon wedges.

Fried Trout with Bacon

To serve 4

4 fresh rainbow or brook trout, about Y2 pound each, cleaned but with head and tail left on, or substitute 4 frozen trout, thoroughly defrosted and drained

1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 8 slices lean bacon Y2 cup flour 1 lemon, quartered

Wash the fish under cold running water, pat them dry inside and out with paper towels , and sprinkle the cavities with the salt and a few grindings of black pepper.

In a heavy 1 2 -inch skillet, fry the bacon over moderate heat until the slices are crisp and brown, then transfer them to paper towels to drain .

Spread the flour over a sheet of wax paper, coat the fish on both sides,

28

and then shake off any excess flour. Fry two trout in the fat remaining in the skillet for about 4 minutes on each side, turning them carefully with a large spatula . Place the trout on a heatproof platter and keep them warm in a 200° oven while you fry the remaining fish.

Serve the fried trout at once, accompanied by the reserved bacon slices and the lemon quarters .

Smoked Sablefish Nuggets


3 medium·sized boiling potatoes ( about % pound ) , peeled, quartered, boiled, mashed to a puree and cooled to room temperature ( about 1 Y2 cups )

% pound smoked sablefish, flaked with a fork and thoroughly picked over to remove all bones (about 2 cups )

\1.4 cup finely grated onions 1 egg, l ightly beaten 1 Y2 cups soft fresh crumbs made

from homemade-type white bread, pulverized in a blender or finely shredded with a fork

Freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil for deep frying

Combine the mashed potatoes, flaked sablefish, onions, egg, Y2 cup of the bread crumbs and a few grindings of pepper in a deep bowl. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and fluffy.

To make each nugget, scoop up about 2 tablespoons of the fish mixture and pat and shape into a ball about 1 \1.4 inches in diameter. You should have about 30 nuggets . Roll the nuggets in the remaining cup of crumbs to coat them evenly, then arrange them side by side on wax paper and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes .

Pour vegetable oil into a deep fryer or large heavy saucepan to a depth of at least 3 inches and heat the oil until it reaches a temperature of 3 5 0 ° on a deep-frying thermometer.

Deep-fry the sablefish nuggets, 5 or 6 at a time, turning them about in the hot oil with a slotted spoon for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they are golden brown. As they brown, transfer the nuggets to paper towels to drain. Arrange the drained nuggets on a heated platter and drape foil over them to keep them warm while you deep-fry the rest .

Serve the nuggets while they are still hot.

29

Barbecued Lingcod with Cheddar

To serve 6

Y4 cup vegetable oil 1 Y2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic Freshly ground black pepper 2 pounds lingcod fillets, cut into 6

pieces, or substitute cod, flounder or haddock

Y4 cup tomato puree 1 teaspoon curry powder

2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon soy sauce Y2 cup chicken stock, fresh or

canned 1 cup dry bread crumbs Y4 pound sharp Cheddar cheese,

grated ( 1 cup ) 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, soft

ened, plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into bits

In a large glass or stainless-steel bowl beat the oil, s alt, Y2 teaspoon of the garlic, and a few grindings of pepper together with a whisk until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Add the lingcod pieces and turn them about with a wooden spoon until they are coated with the mixture. Let the fish marinate for 2 hours at room temperature, turning the pieces over every half hour or so to keep them well moistened.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan make the sauce by combining the tomato puree, the remaining Y2 teaspoon of garlic, the curry powder, lemon j uice, soy sauce and chicken stock. Stir thoroughly and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 450° . Combine the bread crumbs and cheese in a small bowl, then spread the mixture out on a strip of wax paper. Using a pastry brush, spread the softened butter to coat the bottom and sides of a baking-serving dish j ust large enough to hold the fish in one layer. One piece at a time, remove the fish from the marinade, coat it on both sides with the bread-crumb-and-cheese mixture, and lay it in the baking dish. Coat the remaining fish similarly, arranging them side by side in the dish as you proceed, and scatter the butter bits over the top .

Bake the fi s h undisturbed i n the center o f the oven for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, set the pan of reserved sauce over high heat and, stirring constantly, bring it to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat immediately and, after the fish has baked for about 10 minutes, spoon about half the sauce evenly over the fish. Bake the fish for about 5 minutes longer, or until the top is lightly brown and the fish flakes easily when prodded gently with a fork. Serve at once directly from the dish and present the remaining sauce ( reheated if necessary ) in a sauceboat.

30

Lingcod with Garlic and Tomatoes

To serve 4

3 medium-sized firm ripe tomatoes (about 1 pound )

3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon butter 2 pounds lingcod fillet, cut into 4

serving pieces, or substitute cod, flounder or haddock

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh garlic

1 Y2 teaspoons salt Yl! teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Drop the tomatoes into a pot of boiling water and let them boil briskly for about 1 0 seconds. Drain, run cold water over them and, with a small, sharp knife, peel off the skins . Cut out and discard the stems, then cut the tomatoes in half crosswise and squeeze gently to remove the seeds . Chop the tomatoes coarsely ; there should be about 1 Y2 cups.

Heat the oil and butter in a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet over high heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the fish. Fry uncovered for about 2 minutes, then turn with a wide spatula and fry for 2 minutes longer. Transfer the fish to a large platter and discard all but 1 tablespoon of the fat remaining in the skillet.

Stir in the garlic and cook over low heat for 2 or 3 minutes, until it is soft but not brown. Then add the tomatoes . Cook uncovered over high heat, stirring frequently, until the liquid in the pan has evaporated and the tomatoes are thick enough to hold their shape loosely in a spoon. Stir in the salt, pepper and parsley, and return the fish to the pan, discarding any j uices that have accumulated on the platter. Cover the pan, lower the heat, and cook for 3 minutes longer, j ust enough to heat the fish through.

Transfer the fish to a heated serving platter. Taste the sauce for seasoning, pour it over the fish and serve at once.

3 1

Broiled Walleyed Pike

To serve 4

4 eight-ounce walleyed pike fillets 2 teaspoons salt Y2 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 9 tablespoons butter, melted 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon

j uice 1 teaspoon paprika 2 lemons, cut crosswise into

!!.l- inch-thick slices Parsley sprigs

Preheat the broiler to its highest setting. Pat the pike fillets completely dry with paper towels and sprinkle them on both sides with the salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine 8 tablespoons of the melted butter with the lemon j uice.

With a pastry brush, spread the remaining tablespoon of melted butter evenly over the rack of the broiler pan. Place the fillets on the rack, skin side down, and brush them with about 2 tablespoons of the butter-andlemon-j uice mixture. Broil 4 inches from the heat for 5 minutes, brushing the fillets 2 or 3 times with the remaining butter and lemon j uice. Sprinkle the paprika over the fish and continue to broil for 1 to 2 minutes longer, or until the fish feels firm when prodded gently with a finger.

Arrange the fillets attractively on a large heated platter, surround them with lemon slices and parsley sprigs , and serve at once.

3 2

Shrimp-stuffed Baked Pike

To serve 4

7 tablespoons butter, plus 4 tablespoons butter, softened and cut into Y-1 -inch bits

Y-1 cup vegetable oil Y2 pound uncooked shrimp 1 cup soft fresh crumbs made from


1 tablespoon very finely chopped fresh parsley

Ys teaspoon ground mace Y2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 egg yolk A 2 Y2 - to 3 -pound pike, cleaned

but with head and tail left on

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . In a small pan, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter with the oil over moderate heat. Remove the pan from the heat and, with a pastry brush, spread about 1 tablespoon of the mixture evenly over the bottom of a baking-serving dish large enough to hold the fish comfortably. Set the remaining butter-and-oil mixture aside.

Shell the shrimp. Devein them by making a shallow incision down their backs with a small, sharp knife and lifting out the black or white intestinal vein with the point of the knife. Chop the shrimp as fine as possible and place them in a mixing bowl.

Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a 6- to 8 -inch skillet and brown the bread crumbs, stirring them frequently until they are golden. With a rubber spatula, scrape the entire contents of the skillet over the shrimp . Add the parsley, mace, salt and a few grindings of pepper, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture is a thick, smooth paste. Beat in the egg yolk and the 4 tablespoons of butter bits .

Wash the fish inside and out under cold running water and dry it thoroughly with paper towels . Loosely fill the cavity of the fish with the shrimp stuffing, then close the opening with small skewers, crisscrossing them with kitchen cord as if lacing a turkey. Place the fish in the prepared baking Gish and brush the top with 1 or 2 tablespoons of the butteroil mixture. Bake uncovered in the middle of the oven for 3 0 minutes, basting every 1 0 minutes with the remaining butter-and-oil mixture. Serve at once, directly from the baking dish.

33

Baked Stuffed Salmon

To serve 6 to 8

2 tablespoons butter, softened, plus 2 tablespoons butter, chilled

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 6 medium-sized firm ripe tomatoes,

peeled, seeded and finely chopped (see lingcod with garlic and tomatoes, page 3 1 ) , or substitute 2 cups chopped drained canned tomatoes

Ys teaspoon crumbled dried thyme Ys teaspoon sugar 3 teaspoons salt Freshly ground black pepper A 5- to 6-pound fresh salmon,

cleaned and scaled but with head

and tail left on 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon

j uice 2 large firm ripe tomatoes, peeled

and cut crosswise into Y<l -inchthick slices

1 large onion, peeled, cut crosswise into Y<l -inch-thick slices and separated into rings

1 large green bell pepper, seeded, deribbed and cut lengthwise into Y<l-inch-wide strips


4 thin slices lean bacon

Preheat the oven to 4 2 5 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the 2 tablespoons of softened butter evenly over the bottom of a shallow baking-serving dish large enough to hold the salmon . ( If you prefer to serve the fish from a platter, line a shallow baking pan with a wide strip of heavy-duty foil and let 2 inches extend over the pan at each end. Brush the softened butter over the foil. )

Melt the 2 remaining tablespoons of butter over moderate heat in a 2 -to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan. When the foam begins to subside, add the garlic and stir for 1 minute . Then add the chopped tomatoes, thyme, sugar, 1 teaspoon of the salt and a few grindings of pepper. Stirring from time to time, cook briskly until the sauce is thick enough to coat the spoon heavily. Taste for seasoning, then remove the sauce from the heat and set aside.

Wash the salmon under cold running water and pat it completely dry inside and out with paper towels . Combine the lemon j uice with 1 teaspoon of salt and rub the mixture into the cavity of the fish. Let the salmon rest at room temperature while you prepare the stuffing.

Combine the sliced tomatoes , onion rings, green-pepper strips, parsley, the remaining teaspoon of salt and a liberal grinding of black pepper in a deep bowl . Toss together gently but thoroughly, then fill the salmon with the stuffing. Close the opening with small skewers and crisscross with kitchen string as you would lace a turkey, or sew the opening securely shut with a trussing needle and white thread.

Place the salmon in the buttered dish. With a sharp knife, score the

34

top of the fish by making four ;...2 -inch-deep slashes each about 4 inches long and spaced about 1 Y2 inches apart across the body. Insert a thin slice of bacon into each slash, then spoon the reserved tomato sauce evenly over the salmon.

Bake uncovered in the middle of the oven, basting the fish from time to time with the j uices that accumulate in the pan. In 40 to SO minutes the salmon should be j ust firm when pressed lightly with a finger. Serve at once, directly from the baking dish. Or, using the long ends of foil as handles, carefully lift the salmon out of the pan. Gently slide it from the foil onto a large heated platter and moisten the top with a few spoonfuls of the sauce remaining in the pan.

Laksloda POTATO AND SMOKED-SALMON CASS EROLE

To serve 4

1 tablespoon butter, softened, plus 4 tablespoons butter, melted

3 medium-sized boiling potatoes, peeled and cut crosswise into Ys-inch-thick slices

4 tablespoons finely chopped onions

Y2 pound smoked salmon, sl iced paper thin

1 Y2 cups light cream Y2 teaspoon ground allspice Freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh

parsley

Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 1 -quart baking-serving casserole. Spread about one third of the potato slices evenly on the bottom of the casserole, sprinkle them with 2 tablespoons of the onions, and lay half the salmon slices on top . Add another third of the potatoes, the remaining 2 tablespoons of onions and the rest of the salmon, and cover with the remaining potato slices .

Pour the cream down the sides of the casserole , then dribble the melted butter over the potatoes and sprinkle them with the allspice and a liberal grinding of pepper.

Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 hour, or until the potatoes are tender and show no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife. Sprinkle the top with parsley and serve at once, directly from the casserole .

3 5

Molded Salmon with Cucumber Sauce

To serve 4

M O LDED SALMON

1 pound fresh salmon � cup distilled white vinegar 1 medium-sized bay leaf � teaspoon crumbled dried thyme 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon salt 6 whole black peppercorns 1 tablespoon vegetable oil � cup plus 1 tablespoon cold

water

2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin � cup wine vinegar 1 Y2 teaspoons dry mustard 1 teaspoon sugar 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut

into �-inch bits % cup milk

Place the salmon in an enameled or stainless-steel casserole j ust large enough to hold it and pour in enough cold water to cover the fish completely. Add the distilled white vinegar, bay leaf, thyme, 2 tablespoons of the salt and the 6 peppercorns, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for about 2 5 minutes, or until the salmon flakes easily when prodded gently with a fork.

With a slotted spatula, transfer the fish to a plate ; discard the cooking liquid and seasonings . Remove the skin and discard it, then break the salmon into large flakes with a fork, discarding any bones you find. Cover the fish with foil or plastic wrap and set aside.

With a pastry brush, spread the vegetable oil evenly over the bottom and sides of four 6-ounce individual molds. Invert the molds over paper towels to drain.

Pour � cup of the cold water into a small bowl, sprinkle in the gelatin and let it soften for a few minutes . Meanwhile, combine the wine vinegar, the dry mustard, the sugar and the remaining teaspoon of salt in a 1 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan . Stir until the dry ingredients are completely dissolved , then boil briskly to reduce the mixture to about 3 tablespoons . Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the remaining tablespoon of cold water .

Stirring the vinegar mixture constantly with a wire whisk, add the egg yolks one at a time. Still whisking, cook over the lowest possible heat for 1 minute, or until it thickens lightly. Do not let the mixture get too hot or it will curdle. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter bits .

36

In a separate small saucepan, heat the milk over moderate heat until bubbles begin to appear around the edges . Add the gelatin to the milk and stir until it dissolves completely. Stirring the vinegar mixture with the whisk, pour in the milk and gelatin in a slow, thin stream, then stir in the flaked salmon. Taste for seasoning. Pour the mixture into the oiled molds, spreading it and smoothing the top with a spatula. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or until the molded salmon is very firm.

CUCUMBER SAUCE

1 large firm cucumber Y2 cup heavy cream, chilled 1 tablespoon wine vinegar Ys teaspoon ground hot red pepper

(cayenne ) 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon finely cut fresh dill

leaves, or substitute 1 teaspoon dried dill weed

Just before serving, prepare the cucumber sauce in the following fashion : With a small, sharp knife, peel the cucumber and slice it lengthwise in half. Scoop out the seeds by running the tip of a teaspoon down the center of each half. Chop the cucumber fine and squeeze it handful by handful to remove the excess liquid. Spread the cucumber on a paper towel to drain completely.

In a chilled bowl, beat the cream with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater until it is stiff enough to stand in firm peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl . Beat in the wine vinegar, red pepper and 1 teaspoon of salt. Add the cucumber and dill, and fold them into the cream mixture gently but thoroughly .

To unmold and serve the salmon, dip the bottom of the molds briefly into hot water and run a thin knife around the edges . Place an inverted serving plate over each mold and, grasping plate· and mold together firmly, turn them over. Rap the plate on a table and the salmon should slide out easily. Serve the cucumber sauce separately in a bowl or sauceboat.

37

Salmon Poached in Cider

To serve 4

2 tablespoons butter, softened 2 tablespoons finely chopped onions 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh

parsley 4 eight-ounce salmon steaks, each

cut about 1 inch thick 8 medium-sized fresh mushroom

caps, thinly sliced 3 medium-sized firm, ripe tomatoes,

peeled and seeded (see lingcod with garlic and tomatoes, page

3 1 ) and cut lengthwise into strips about 2 inches long and Y4 inch wide

1 small bay leaf 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 Y2 cups English cider, or

substitute dry white wine 1 egg yolk Y3 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon strained fresh lemon

juice

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the butter over the bottom and sides of a shallow baking dish j ust large enough to hold the salmon steaks in one layer . Spread the chopped onions and parsley evenly over the bottom of the dish, place the salmon steaks over them, and scatter the sliced mushroom caps, tomato strips and bay leaf on top . Season with the salt and a few grindings of pepper. Pour the cider or wine down the sides of the pan and bring to a simmer over moderate heat.

Cover the dish loosely with a piece of buttered wax paper, then place it in the middle of the oven . Poach the salmon for about 20 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily when prodded gently with a fork. With a large slotted spatula, carefully transfer the fish and its topping to a heated serving platter, cover with foil and keep warm in the turned-off oven while you make the sauce.

Strain the remaining contents of the baking dish through a fine sieve set over a 1 Y2 - to 2 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan. Press down hard on the seasonings with the back of a wooden spoon to extract all of their juices before discarding them. Boil the liquid briskly, uncovered, until it is reduced to about Y2 cup.

In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk and cream together with a wire whisk. When the mixture is smooth, whisk in 1 or 2 tablespoons of the hot liquid. Stirring constantly with the whisk, pour the mixture into the saucepan and simmer over low heat until it thickens lightly. Do not let it come near a boil or it will curdle. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining tablespoon of butter and the lemon j uice . Taste for seasoning and pour the sauce over the fish . Serve at once.

38

Pickled Salmon

To serve 1 2 as a first course

2 cups white distilled vinegar 2 cups water Y-1 cup olive oil 2 small onions, peeled, sliced into

Y-1-inch-thick rings 2 medium-sized bay leaves,

crumbled 2 teaspoons mustard seeds 2 teaspoons whole cloves 2 teaspoons whole white

peppercorns � teaspoon whole black peppercorns 5 pounds fresh salmon, boned,

skinned and cut into l - inch pieces 1 tablespoon salt

Combine the vinegar, water, olive oil, onions, bay leaves, mustard seeds, cloves, and white and black peppercorns in a 2- to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan . Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for 45 minutes .

Meanwhile, spread the salmon pieces in one layer on a strip of wax paper. Sprinkle the fish evenly with the salt and let it rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Then drop the salmon into a colander and run cold water over it to rinse off the excess salt.

Pat the fish dry with paper towels and pack the pieces tightly into glass or earthenware j ars or crocks . Pour the hot vinegar-and-spice mixture over the salmon, ;..2 cup at a time, allowing the liquid to seep down slowly to the bottom of the j ar before adding more.

Cool to room temperature, tightly cover with foil or plastic wrap, and refrigerate the salmon for at least 24 hours before serving. Tightly covered, it can safely be kept in the refrigerator for about a week.

39

Shad-Roe Croquettes

To serve 6

1 pound shad roe, thoroughly defrosted if frozen

3 tablespoons butter � cup finely chopped onions 1 � cups soft fresh crumbs made

from day-old homemade-type white bread, pulverized in a blender or finely shredded with a fork

2 teaspoons strained fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup heavy cream 1 egg, lightly beaten Vegetable oil for deep frying 3 lemons, each cut into 4 wedges

Place the roe in a heavy 2- to 3-quart saucepan, pour in 1 quart of water and over high heat bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the roe partially covered for 12 to 15 minutes, or until they feel firm when prodded gently with a finger. Drain the roe and pat them completely dry with paper towels, then slit and remove the membranes with a small, sharp knife. Place the roe in a deep bowl and mash them to a smooth puree with the back of a table fork.

In a saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over moderate heat. When the foam subsides, add the onions and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes . When the onions are soft and translucent but not brown, scrape them over the roe with a rubber spatula . Set the saucepan aside. Add � cup of the bread crumbs, the lemon j uice, salt and a few grindings of pepper to the roe and mix well .

Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in the saucepan, then add the flour and blend well. Pour in the cream and, stirring constantly with a wire whisk, cook the sauce over high heat until it comes to a boil , thickens and is smooth . Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 3 minutes to remove the raw taste of flour .

Pour the sauce over the roe mixture and stir until the two are thoroughly blended. Taste for seasoning. Spread the mixture in a shallow dish and chill . To form each croquette, scoop up about 2 tablespoons of the mixture and pat and shape it into a sausagelike roll about 2 Y<I inches long and 1 inch in diameter .

One at a time, immerse the croquettes in the beaten egg and then roll them in the remaining 1 cup of bread crumbs, coating them as thoroughly as possible. Arrange the croquettes side by side on a baking sheet covered with wax paper, and refrigerate them for at least 20 minutes to firm the coating.

40

Preheat the oven to its lowest setting. At the same time line a large shallow baking pan with a double thickness of paper towels and place it on the middle shelf of the oven.

Pour vegetable oil into a deep fryer or large heavy saucepan to a depth of 2 to 3 inches and heat the oil until it reaches a temperature of 360° on a deep-frying thermometer.

Deep-fry the croquettes 5 or 6 at a time, turning them occasionally with a slotted spoon, for about 5 minutes , or until they are crisp and golden on all sides . As they brown, transfer them to the lined pan and keep them warm in the oven while you deep-fry the rest.

As soon as they are all fried, arrange the croquettes on a heated platter and garnish with the lemon wedges . Serve at once.

Rockfish Espanol

To serve 4

3 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium-sized onions, peeled and

cut crosswise into Ys -inch-thick slices

1 medium-sized green pepper, seeded, deribbed and cut lengthwise into Ys-inch-wide strips

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

2 one-pound rockfish fillets, each skinned and cut lengthwise in half

1 teaspoon salt 6 medium-sized firm ripe tomatoes,

peeled, seeded and finely chopped (see lingcod with garlic and tomatoes, page 3 1 ) , or substitute 2 cups chopped drained canned tomatoes

In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet, heat the oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Add the onions, pepper strips and garlic and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables are soft but not brown.

Sprinkle the rockfish fillets on both sides with the salt and place them in the skillet on top of the vegetables . Spread the tomatoes over the fish, cover the skillet partially, and cook over moderate heat for 1 5 to 20 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily when prodded gently with a fork.

With a slotted spatula, transfer the fillets to a heated serving platter. Bring the contents of the skillet to a boil over high heat and, stirring constantly, cook briskly until the vegetable mixture thickens enough to hold its shape lightly in a spoon. Taste for seasoning and pour the vegetable mixture over the fish. Serve at once.

41

Seafood Stew

To serve 8

STOCK

ll.l cup olive oil 1 cup finely chopped onions Y2 cup finely chopped celery 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic 2 small bay leaves, crumbled Y2 teaspoon thyme or sweet basil Y8 teaspoon powdered saffron

Y2 teaspoon grated orange peel 2 sprigs parsley ll.l cup tomato paste 1 Y2 quarts clam juice, fresh or

bottled 2 cups dry white wine 2 cups chicken stock, fresh or

canned

In a heavy 6- to 8-quart casserole, heat the olive oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Add the onions, celery and garlic and, stirring constantly, cook for about 5 minutes without allowing the onions and celery to brown. Stir in the bay leaves, thyme or basil, saffron, orange peel, parsley and tomato paste, mix thoroughly, then pour in the clam j uice, wine and chicken stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, then partially cover the pan, reduce the heat to low, and simmer undisturbed for 30 minutes.

Strain the contents of the casserole through a fine sieve set over a large bowl, pressing down hard on the vegetables and herbs with the back of a spoon to extract their j uices before discarding the pulp.

FISH AND S H E L L FISH

Y2 pound small shrimp 1 Y2 pounds ( 1 5 to 20 ) small hard

shell clams, washed and thoroughly scrubbed

1 pound lingcod, cut in 2-inch pieces

1 pound halibut, cut in 2 -inch pieces 1 pound salmon, cut in 2-inch pieces 1 pound lump crabmeat

Shell the shrimp. Devein them by making a shallow incision down their backs with the tip of a small, sharp knife and lifting out the black or white intestinal vein with the point of the knife.

Return the strained stock to the casserole and, over high heat, bring to a boil . Then drop in the clams, lingcod, halibut and salmon, lower the heat and simmer uncovered for about 6 minutes before adding the shrimp and crabmeat. Simmer an additional 3 to 4 minutes , or until all the clams have opened and the fish flakes easily when prodded with a fork. Taste for seasoning and serve directly from the casserole or, if you prefer, transfer the stew to a heated tureen or serve in individual soup bowls .

42

aOIUII I IIII IIIDI

Chicken and Caraway Seeds

To serve 4

A 3 � - to 4-pound chicken, cut into 8 serving pieces

1 teaspoon salt Y<l teaspoon freshly ground pepper � cup plus 2 tablespoons flour 4 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

� cup chicken stock, fresh or canned

2 tablespoons caraway seeds, coarsely crushed with a mortar and pestle or wrapped in a kitchen towel and coarsely crushed with a mallet or the side of a cleaver

2 cups sour cream

Pat the pieces of chicken completely dry with paper towels and season them with the salt and pepper. Dip each piece in � cup of the flour and shake vigorously to remove the excess flour.

In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet at least 2 inches deep, melt the butter with the oil over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, brown the chicken, in two batches if necessary to avoid crowding the pan. Start the pieces skin side down and turn them 2 or 3 times with tongs, regulating the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. As they brown, transfer the pieces of chicken to a plate.

Pour off the fat remaining in the skillet and in its place add the chicken stock and caraway seeds . Bring to a boil over high heat, meanwhile scraping in the brown particles that cling to the bottom and sides of the pan. Return the chicken and the liquid that has accumulated around it to the skillet, reduce the heat to low, and simmer covered for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the chicken is tender.

Arrange the pieces of chicken attractively on a heated platter and drape foil over them to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce. Mix the remaining 2 tablespoons of flour into the sour cream. Stirring constantly, pour the mixture into the liquid remaining in the skillet and simmer until the sauce is smooth and hot. Taste for seasoning. Pour the sauce over the bird and serve at once.

43

Broiled Chicken with Mushroom Sauce

To serve 4

Two 1 Y2 - to 2-pound chickens Y2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 8 tablespoons butter, melted, plus 3

tablespoons butter Y2 pound firm fresh mushrooms 2 tablespoons flour

1 cup chicken stock, fresh or canned 2 tablespoons pale dry sherry Ys teaspoon ground nutmeg,

preferably freshly grated Ground hot red pepper ( cayenne ) Y<! cup heavy cream 1 egg yolk 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Have your butcher remove the backbones and the spoon-shaped breastbones from the chickens, then flatten them with a cleaver and cut the birds in half. Or prepare the chickens yourself in the following fashion : Place one chicken at a time on a cutting board and, with a boning knife, cut along the length of the backbone on both sides . Discard the backbone, spread the bird apart and bend it back until the breastbone pops up . Remove it. Cut out the white cartilage at the tip of the breast and chop off the small wing tips. Lay the chicken skin side down and flatten the rib bones in the breast by pounding them with the side of a cleaver or a kitchen mallet. Cut the chicken in half lengthwise.

Preheat the broiler to its highest setting. Season the birds with the salt and a few grindings of black pepper. With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the melted butter on the rack of the broiler pan. Arrange the chickens on the rack, skin side down, and brush them with a tablespoon or so of the melted butter. Broil 4 inches from the heat for 5 or 6 minutes, then turn the birds over and brush them with a spoonful of melted butter. Broil 6 minutes , turn the birds again, and brush them with butter. Then broil 6 minutes longer, turn the birds skin side up, and remove the pan from the broiler. Reserve the remaining melted butter.

Meanwhile, wipe the mushrooms with a dampened cloth, break off the 8 most attractive caps, and finely chop the remaining caps and all the mushroom stems . In a heavy s� to 1 0-inch skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the solid butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the whole mushroom caps and turn them about until they glisten with butter and are delicately colored. With a slotted spoon, transfer the caps to a plate and reserve them. Add the chopped mushrooms to the butter remaining in the skillet and, stirring frequently, cook over moderate heat for 8 to 1 0 minutes, or until the moisture they give off has evaporated. Do not let the mushrooms brown. Remove the mushrooms from the pan and set them aside in a bowl.

Place the remaining 2 tablespoons of solid butter in the skillet and melt it over moderate heat. Sprinkle in the flour and mix well . Stirring

44

the mixture constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the chicken stock in a slow, thin stream and cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil , thickens and is smooth . Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes . Then stir in the sherry, nutmeg and a few grains of red pepper .

Combine the cream and egg yolk in a small bowl and beat with a whisk or fork until smooth . Add 2 tablespoonfuls of the simmering sauc.e, then pour the mixture into the sauce in the skillet, stirring constantly. Taste for seasoning, and stir in the chopped mushrooms. Simmer for a minute to heat them through, then remove the pan from the heat.

Arrange the chicken halves skin side up in one layer in a shallow baking-serving dish and, with a rubber spatula, spread the sauce evenly over them. Set the mushroom caps on the chickens and dribble the remaining melted butter over the top . Place the dish under the broiler for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbly and the mushroom caps golden. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve at once.

Frosted Chicken Breasts

To serve 6

3 one-pound chicken breasts, skinned, boned and split in half

1 quart chicken stock, fresh or canned

'1:2 cup finely chopped onions '1:2 cup finely chopped celery,

including some leaves

1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper '1:2 cup cream cheese, softened � cup freshly made mayonnaise

(page 1 1 ) , or substitute � cup bottled unsweetened mayonnaise

1 tablespoon finely cut fresh dill leaves, or substitute 1 teaspoon crumbled dried dill weed

'1:2 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon peel

Arrange the chicken breasts in one layer in a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet, and add the chicken stock, onions, celery, salt and a few grindings of pepper. The liquid should cover the chicken breasts completely; if necessary, pour in more stock or add water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for 1 0 minutes, or until the chicken is white and opaque and feels firm to the touch .

Remove the skillet from the heat and let the chicken cool to room temperature in the stock. Then drain the chicken, cover with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled. Strain the stock and refrigerate or freeze it for another use .

Just before serving, cream the cheese in a deep bowl by beating and mashing it against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until it is light and fluffy. Beat in the mayonnaise, dill and lemon peel, and taste for seasoning. With a metal spatula, spread the mayonnaise mixture smoothly in a � -inch-thick layer over the top of each chicken breast. Arrange the frosted chicken on a chilled platter and serve at once.

45

Individual Turkey Hash Ovals

To serve 4

1 large boiling potato, peeled and quartered

8 tablespoons butter, cut into bits 2 cups coarsely chopped cooked

turkey Y2 cup finely chopped onions Y<1 cup finely chopped celery Y<i cup coarsely chopped fresh

parsley 1 egg plus 2 lightly beaten eggs

Y<1 cup heavy cream 1 Y2 teaspoons salt Y2 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper Y2 cup flour 1 Y2 cups soft fresh crumbs made

from homemade-type white bread, pulverized in a blender or finely shredded with a fork

4 tablespoons ve�etable oil

Drop the potato quarters into enough boiling water to cover them by 1 inch and boil briskly until they are tender and show no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife. Drain off the water, return the pan to low heat and slide it back and forth for a minute or so to dry the potato quarters completely. Mash them to a smooth puree with a table fork, add 4 tablespoons of the butter bits, and beat until the butter is completely absorbed.

Put the turkey, onions, celery and parsley through the medium blade of a food grinder into a deep bowl . Add one egg and stir with a wooden spoon until well blended. Add the potatoes , cream, salt and pepper, and beat vigorously until the mixture is smooth and fluffy. Cover the bowl with wax paper and chill the mixture for about 3 0 minutes.

To shape the turkey hash, divide the mixture into eight equal parts and pat each one into a somewhat flattened oval cake about 4 inches long and 1 inch wide. One at a time, dip each cake in the flour to coat it evenly on all sides and shake off the excess . Immerse the cake in the beaten eggs, then roll it in the bread crumbs. Set the cakes side by side on a plate or piece of wax paper and refrigerate them for at least 30 minutes to firm the coating.

In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter bits with the oil over moderate heat. Add the turkey-hash cakes and fry them for 2 or 3 minutes on each side, or until they are golden brown. Serve at once.

46

Pheasant and Apples with Sour-Cream Sauce

To serve 4

2 one-pound oven-ready pheasants, split lengthwise into halves

1 teaspoon salt Y<l teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper Y2 cup plus 2 teaspoons flour 4 slices bacon 3 tablespoons butter

Y2 cup finely chopped onions The livers, hearts and gizzards of

the pheasants, finely chopped 1 cup chicken stock, fresh or canned 2 firm unpeeled cooking apples,

cored and quarter�d 2 tablespoons brandy Y2 cup sour cream

Pat the pheasant halves dry with paper towels and sprinkle them with the salt and pepper. One at a time, dip each half in Y2 cup of the flour, turning it to coat both sides, and vigorously shake off the excess flour.

In a heavy 1 2 -inch skillet, fry the bacon over moderate heat until the slices are crisp and brown and have rendered all their fat . Set the bacon slices aside on paper towels to drain, then crumble them into bits .

Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons of the fat remaining in the skillet and add the butter. Melt the butter in the fat and then brown the pheasant halves , one or two at a time. Turn the pheasant frequently and regulate the heat so that it colors richly and evenly without burning. As each half browns, set it aside on a plate.

Add the onions to the fat remaining in the skillet and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Add the pheasant livers, hearts and gizzards, and stir for 2 to 3 minutes . Stir in the stock and return the birds and the liquid that has accumulated around them to the skillet. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for 20 minutes .

Place the apple quarters in the skillet and spoon the cooking liquid over them. Then simmer partially covered for about 1 0 minutes longer. To test for doneness , pierce the thigh of a pheasant with the point of a small, sharp knife . The j uice that trickles out should be clear yellow ; if it is tinged with pink, simmer the birds for a few minutes more. Arrange the pheasants and apples attractively on a heated platter and drape foil over them to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce.

Skim the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid, pour in the brandy and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 1 to 2 minutes . Meanwhile, with a wire whisk, beat the remaining 2 teaspoons of flour into the sour cream. Stirring the sauce with the whisk, pour in the sour-cream mixture and simmer slowly for 4 to 5 minutes, until it is smooth and slightly thickened. Taste for seasoning, then pour the sauce over the pheasants . Sprinkle the pheasants with the reserved bacon bits and serve at once.

47

Pheasant Pie

To serve 6 to 8

2 two-pound oven-ready pheasants, quartered

Y2 cup plus 6 tablespoons flour Y2 cup vegetable oil % cup finely chopped onions 2 cups chicken stock, fresh or

canned 2 cups water 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh

parsley 1 tablespoon finely chopped celery

leaves 4 whole black peppercorns 2 teaspoons salt

8 small white onions, each about 1 inch in diameter, peeled and trimmed

2 large carrots, scraped and cut crosswise into l - inch-thick rounds

10 tablespoons butter 14 pound fresh mushrooms, wiped

with a dampened towel, trimmed and cut lengthwise, including the stems, into Ys- inch-thick slices

6 slices Canadian-style back bacon 1 medium-sized bay leaf Short-crust pastry for pie top (page

1 33)

Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 o . Wash the pheasant quarters quickly under cold running water and pat them dry with paper towels . Spread Y2 cup of the flour on a sheet of wax paper and turn the pheasant pieces in it to coat them on all sides. Shake vigorously to remove the excess flour.

In a heavy 6- to 8-quart casserole or Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Brown the pheasants, a few pieces at a time, turning them with tongs and regulating the heat so that they color richly and evenly on both sides without burning. As they brown, transfer the quarters to a plate.

Add the chopped onions to the fat remaining in the casserole and, stirring frequently, cook for 5 minutes, or until they are soft and lightly colored. Then pour in the chicken stock and bring to a boil, meanwhile scraping in any browned bits that cling to the bottom and sides of the casserole. Stir in the water, parsley, celery leaves, peppercorns and salt.

Return the pheasant and the juices that have accumulated around it to the casserole. Cover tightly and bring to a boil over high heat. Place the casserole in the middle of the oven and braise the pheasant for about 3 0 minutes . To test for doneness, pierce the thigh with the point o f a small, sharp knife. The j uice that trickles out should be slightly tinged with pink. Do not overcook the birds.

Transfer the pheasant quarters to a plate and remove the skin from the pheasant with a small, sharp knife. Cut the meat away from the bones, discard the skin and bones, and cut the meat into l -inch pieces . Place the meat in a large bowl and set aside.

48

Drop the whole white onions and the carrots into the casserole. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the onions and carrots are tender. With a slotted spoon, add the vegetables to the pheasant meat .

Meanwhile melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a heavy 8 - to 1 0-inch skillet. When the foam begins to subside, drop in the sliced mushrooms and, stirring frequently, cook for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the slices are soft and l ightly colored. With a slotted spoon, transfer the mushrooms to the bowl with the pheasant.

Strain the braising liquid remaining in the casserole through a fine sieve set over a mixing bowl, pressing down hard on the herbs with the back of a spoon before discarding them. There should be about 3 cups of strained liquid. If there is less, add more chicken stock ; if there is more, boil the liquid briskly over high heat until it is reduced to 3 cups.

In a heavy 1- to 2 -quart saucepan, melt the remaining 6 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the remaining 6 tablespoons of flour and mix well . Stirring constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the braising liquid and cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil , thickens and is smooth. Pour the sauce over the vegetables and pheasant, and toss together lightly.

Preheat the oven to 400 ° . Lay the slices of bacon side by side, overlapping them slightly in the bottom of a 2-quart casserole. Pour in the pheasant-and-vegetable mixture, spreading it evenly with a spatula. Place the bay leaf on top and set aside. .

On a lightly floured surface, roll the short-crust pastry dough into a rough circle about Y<i inch thick and several inches larger than the top of the baking dish . Drape the dough over a rolling pin, lift it up, and gently unroll it over the top of the dish. With scissors or a small knife, trim off the excess dough, leaving a l -inch overhang all around the rim. Tuck the overhang under the edges of the dough and secure the pastry to the rim by crimping it tightly with your fingers or the tines of a fork. Cut a l inch hole i n the center of the pastry.

Bake in the lower third of the oven for 30 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 3 5 0 ° , and continue baking for 30 minutes longer, or until the pastry is golden brown. Serve at once, directly from the baking dish.

49

Wild-Rice-stuffed Quail with Cream-and-Morel Sauce

To serve 4 or 8

Y2 ounce dried morels, or substitute any type dried mushrooms

% cup water

Place the morels ( or other dried mushrooms ) in a small bowl, pour the water over them, and let stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours . Drain the morels, reserving the soaking liquid, and chop them coarsely .

WILD- RICE STU F FING

2 tablespoons butter Y<1 cup finely chopped onions Y2 cup wild rice, thoroughly rinsed

1 to 1 Y2 cups boiling chicken stock, fresh or canned

Y<l teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper

Meanwhile, prepare the wild-rice stuffing in the following fashion : In a heavy 8- to 1 0-inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add Y<l cup of chopped onions and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Add the wild rice and stir for 2 or 3 minutes to coat the grains evenly with butter. Then pour in 1 cup of the boiling chicken stock, add Y<l teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of pepper, and bring to a boil again over high heat . Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly, and s immer for about 30 to 45 minutes, or until the grains are tender and have absorbed all the stock. ( Check the skillet from time to time; if the wild rice is too dry add up to Y2 cup more boiling chicken stock, a tablespoon at a time. ) Remove the skillet from the heat, taste for seasoning, and cover to keep the stuffing warm.

QUAIL

8 six-ounce oven-ready quail 2 teaspoons salt Y2 teaspoon freshly ground

black pepper

4 slices bacon, each cut crosswise in half

6 tablespoons butter, melted

Preheat the oven to 4 7 5 ° . Wash the quail under cold running water and dry them thoroughly with paper towels. Rub 2 teaspoons of salt and Y2

teaspoon of black pepper into the cavities of the birds . Then fill them loosely with the wild-rice stuffing, dividing it evenly among them, and close the opening of each bird by sewing it with heavy white thread.

5 0

Arrange the quail on their backs on a rack in a large shallow roasting pan. Drape a piece of bacon across the breasts and thighs of each bird, pressing the bacon snugly against the bird to keep it in place. Roast in the middle of the oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes, basting the quail every 5 minutes or so with 6 tablespoons of melted butter and the liquid that has accumulated in the bottom of the pan. The birds are done when they are golden brown and the drumsticks feel tender to the touch.

SAUCE

Y2 cup finely chopped onions 2 tablespoons flour Y2 cup chicken stock, fresh or

canned

2 tablespoons brandy Ys teaspoon crumbled dried thyme 2 tablespoons heavy cream

Discard the bacon, transfer the quail to a heated platter, and drape foil over them to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce. Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons of the fat from the roasting pan and in its place add Y2 cup of chopped onions . Stirring frequently, cook over moderate heat for about 5 minutes, or until the onions are soft and translucent but not brown. Add the flour and mix well . Stirring the mixture constantly with a wire whisk or large spoon, add Y2 cup of chicken stock, the reserved soaking liquid from the mushrooms, the brandy and thyme, and cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil, thickens lightly and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes to remove the taste of flour.

Stir in the cream, then strain the sauce through a fine sieve into a small saucepan, pressing down hard on the onions with the back of a spoon to extract all their j uice before discarding the pulp . Add the reserved mushrooms and simmer the sauce for a minute or so to heat it through. Taste for seasoning, pour into a bowl or sauceboat and serve at once with the stuffed quail .

5 1

Grouse with Brandied Orange Stuffing

To serve 6

6 one-pound oven-ready grouse 2 teaspoons salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 large navel orange 1 2 tablespoons butter, plus 4

tablespoons butter, melted 8 to 10 slices homemade-type white

bread, cut into � -inch cubes ( 4 cups )

2 cups finely chopped celery

Y2 cup finely chopped onions 6 grouse l ivers, finely chopped � cup brandy 1 teaspoon crumbled dried sage

leaves Y2 teaspoon crumbled dried

rosemary Ys teaspoon crumbled dried chervil Ys teaspoon crumbled dried

marj oram Y2 cup strained fresh orange j uice

Preheat the oven to 42 5 ° . Wash the grouse quickly under cold running water and pat them dry inside and out with paper towels . Season the cavities of the birds with 1 teaspoon of the salt and a few grindings of pepper, and set aside.

Grate the peel of the orange fine, taking care not to include any of the bitter white pith underneath ; measure and set aside 2 tablespoons of grated peel . With a small, sharp knife, remove all the remaining peel, the pith and white membrane from the orange. Chop the orange pulp fine and squeeze it between your hands to remove the excess j uice. Reserve the orange pulp .

In a heavy 1 2 - inch skillet, melt 6 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat. Drop in the bread cubes and stir until they are delicately browned. Transfer the cubes to a deep bowl, add 6 tablespoons of butter to the skillet and melt it as before. When the foam begins to subside, add the celery, onions and grouse l ivers and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Pour in the brandy, bring to a boil over high heat, and cook briskly for 30 seconds.

With a rubber spatula, scrape the contents of the skillet over the bread cubes. Add the chopped orange pulp, the reserved orange peel, the sage, rosemary, chervil, marjoram, the remaining teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of pepper. Mix well, taste for seasoning, then spoon the stuffing into the cavities of the grouse . Close the openings by lacing them with skewers and kitchen cord or sewing them with heavy white thread .

Truss the birds neatly and lay them on their backs on a rack in a large, shallow roasting pan. Combine the 4 tablespoons of melted butter with the orange j uice and, with a pastry brush, spread a few tablespoons of the mixture over the breasts and legs of the birds .

5 2

Roast in the middle of the oven for 1 5 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 3 7 5 ° and brush the grouse again with the butter and orange j uice. Continue roasting for 2 5 to 30 minutes longer, basting the birds every 1 0 minutes . To test for doneness, pierce the thigh of a bird with the point of a small , sharp knife. The j uice that trickles out should be clear yellow ; if it is slightly tinged with pink, roast the grouse for another 5 to 1 0 minutes .

Transfer the grouse to a heated platter and let them rest about 1 0 minutes before serving.

Roast Quail

To serve 3 or 6

6 six-ounce oven-ready quail 2 tablespoons olive oil Y2 teaspoon salt Y2 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 6 tablespoons butter, melted

2 tablespoons brandy 2 tablespoons dry white wine 2 tablespoons strained fresh lime

juice 4 teaspoons Cointreau or other

orange-flavored liqueur Y2 teaspoon crumbled dried basil

Preheat the oven to 4 7 5 o . Wash the quail under cold running water and dry them thoroughly with paper towels . Rub them inside and out with the olive oil and season them with the salt and pepper. Place the birds on their backs on a rack in a large shallow roasting pan.

Combine the butter, brandy, wine, lime j uice, Cointreau and basil in a bowl and mix well . With a pastry brush, coat the birds l iberally with the butter-and-brandy mixture. Roast in the middle of the oven for 1 5 to 2 0 minutes, basting the quail every 5 minutes or s o with the remaining butter and brandy. The birds are done when they are a golden brown and the drumsticks feel tender to the touch .

Serve the roast quail at once from a large heated platter or, if you like, run the birds under a preheated broiler for a few minutes to brown them further before serving.

5 3

1161 Cold Spiced Beef

To serve 8

6� cups cold water 2 cups cider vinegar 1 cup finely grated onions 1 � teaspoons ground allspice 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly grated black

pepper A 3 � - to 4-pound beef chuck

roast, trimmed of excess fat and securely tied in 2 or 3 places

2 medium-sized onions, peeled and cut crosswise into '�<!-inch-thick slices

2 medium-sized carrots, scraped and cut into '�<!-inch-thick rounds

1 medium-sized white turnip, peeled and cut crosswise into '�<! inch-thick rounds

2 envelopes unflavored gelatin

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . Combine 6 cups of the water, the vinegar, onions, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, salt and pepper in a heavy 5- to 6-quart casserole and mix well. Add the beef roast. The liquid should cover the meat completely ; if necessary, add more water . Bring to a boil over high heat, cover tightly, and then braise in the middle of the oven for 2 � hours . Add the sliced onions and the carrots and turnips, and continue to braise, tightly covered, for about 30 minutes longer, or until the vegetables are tender and the beef shows no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small, sharp knife.

Transfer the beef, onions, carrots and turnips to a platter to cool. Pour the remaining � cup of cold water into a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over it to soften. Meanwhile, strain the beef cooking liquid through a fine sieve set over a bowl and, with a large spoon, skim as much fat as possible from the surface . Measure 1 quart of the strained liquid into a

saucepan and add it to the gelatin. Stirring constantly, cook over low heat until the gelatin dissolves completely. Taste for seasoning.

Cut away the string, and carve the beef into '�<! -inch-thick slices . Overlapping them slightly, arrange the slices in one or two rows in a shallow baking-serving dish about 1 2 inches long and 8 inches wide. Place the onions, carrots and turnips decoratively on top of the meat, then pour the gelatin mixture over the beef and vegetables . Cover the dish with foil or plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 2 or 3 hours, until the spiced beef is thoroughly chilled and the coating is firm to the touch . Serve the beef directly from the baking dish.

54

Swiss Steak

To serve 4

V2 cup flour 2 tablespoons dry mustard 1 V2 teaspoons salt V2 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 2 pounds round steak in a l - inch

thick slice, trimmed of excess fat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 6 medium-sized firm ripe tomatoes,

peeled, seeded and finely chopped

(see lingcod with garlic and tomatoes, page 3 1 ) , or substitute 2 cups chopped drained canned tomatoes

2 medium-sized onions, peeled and cut crosswise into Y<l -inch-thick slices

V2 cup finely chopped celery 2 tablespoons W orcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon dark-brown sugar V2 cup sour cream

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . Combine the flour, mustard, salt and pepper, and sift them together into a deep platter. Coat the round steak on both sides with the flour mixture, then pound the seasoning into the meat with a kitchen mallet or the side of your fist . Cut the steak into four or eight equal pieces .

In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet at least 3 inches deep, or in a Dutch oven, heat the oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Brown the steak in the hot oil, in two batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding the pan. Turn the steak with tongs or a spatula and regulate the heat so that the meat colors richly and evenly without burning. As the steak pieces brown, transfer them t<;> a plate.

Add the tomatoes, onions, celery, Worcestershire sauce and brown sugar to the fat remaining in the skillet and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring and scraping in any brown particles that cling to the bottom and sides of the pan. Return the steak to the pan along with the liquid that has accumulated around it and turn it about in the vegetable mixture until evenly coated.

Cover tightly and braise in the middle of the oven for 1 V2 hours, or until the steak is tender and shows no resistance when pierced with the point of a small, sharp knife. Transfer the steak to a platter and drape with foil to keep it warm while you prepare the sauce.

Skim as much fat as possible from the surface of the vegetable mixture remaining in the skillet . Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, stir in the sour cream, and cook for a minute or so to warm it through. Taste for seasoning and ladle the sauce over the steak.

5 5

Swedish Pot Roast

To serve 6 to 8

\.4 cup vegetable oil A 4- to 4Y2 -pound boneless beef

roast, preferably bottom round, rump, brisket or chuck, trimmed of excess fat and tied securely in 3 or 4 places

1 Y2 cups finely chopped onions 3 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon dark-brown sugar 2 cups beef stock, fresh or canned \.4 cup distil led white vinegar

1 medium-sized carrot, scraped and finely chopped

10 flat anchovy fillets, drained and rinsed thoroughly in a sieve under cold running water

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns, bruised with the side of a cleaver or heavy knife, 1 large bay leaf and 2 sprigs fresh parsley, wrapped together in cheesecloth and tied with a string

Salt Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . In a heavy 5- to 6-quart casserole equipped with a tight-fitting lid, warm the oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Pat the beef completely dry with paper towels and brown it in the hot oil, turning the roast with two spoons and regulating the heat so that it colors richly and evenly on all sides without burning. Set the beef aside on a plate.

Pour off all but a thin film of fat from the casserole and add the onions . Stirring frequently, cook over moderate heat for 8 to 1 0 minutes, until they are soft and delicately browned. Stir in the flour and brown sugar and, when they are thoroughly absorbed, pour in the beef stock and vinegar. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly with a whisk until the mixture is smooth and fairly thick.

Add the carrot, anchovy fillets, and the wrapped peppercorns , bay leaf, and parsley. Return the roast and the liquid that has accumulated around it to the casserole, and bring to a boil over high heat.

Cover the casserole tightly and roast the beef in the lower third of the oven for about 3 hours . Check from time to time and lower the heat if necessary to keep the l iquid in the casserole at a slow simmer. When the beef is done, it should be tender and offer no resistance when pierced with the tines of a long-handled fork.

Transfer the pot roast to a heated platter and drape it loosely with fo!l to keep it warm while you prepare the gravy. Discard the wrapped peppercorns, bay leaf and parsley, and skim as much fat as possible from the surface of the gravy. Then boil briskly, uncovered, over high heat until it reaches the thickness and intensity of flavor you prefer . Taste and add salt and a few grindings of pepper if needed . Pour the gravy into a heated sauceboat and serve it separately with the pot roast.

56

Swedish Meatballs

To serve 8

1 large baking potato, peeled and quartered

Y2 pound butter Y2 cup finely chopped onions 1 pound lean boneless beef, ground

twice Y2 pound lean boneless pork,

ground twice 1 cup heavy cream 1 egg 3 tablespoons soft fresh crumbs

made from pumpernickel bread, trimmed of all crusts and

pulverized in a blender or finely shredded with a fork


Y2 teaspoon ground allspice 2 teaspoons salt Y2 to 1 cup vegetable oil 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup chicken stock, fresh or canned Y-1 cup finely cut fresh dill leaves,

or substitute 1 tablespoon dried dill weed

Freshly ground black pepper

Drop the potato quarters into a small saucepan filled with enough boiling water to cover them completely and boil briskly until they are tender and show no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small, sharp knife. Drain off the water and slide the pan back and forth over low heat for a minute or so to dry the potatoes completely. Then transfer the potato quarters to a deep bowl and mash them to a smooth puree with the back of a fork.

In the same pan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the onions and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown. With a rubber spatula, scrape the entire contents of the pan over the potato puree.

Add the beef, pork, Y2 cup of the cream, the egg, pumpernickel crumbs, parsley, allspice and 1 Y2 teaspoons of the salt, and knead the ingredients together. Then, with a large wooden spoon, beat the mixture vigorously until it is light and fluffy. To shape each meatball, scoop up 1 tablespoon of the mixture and pat and roll it into a ball about 1 inch in diameter ; you should have about 90 meatballs.

In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with 2 tablespoons of the oil over high heat. Add the meatballs, a dozen or so at a time, to the hot fat, turning them frequently with a spatula and regulating the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. As each batch browns, transfer the meatballs to a platter and add 2 more tablespoons of butter and 2 tablespoons of oil to the skillet.

In another skillet melt 2 more tablespoons of butter over moderate

Continued on next page 5 7

heat. Add the flour and mix to a paste. Stirring constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the chicken stock in a thin stream and cook over high heat until the sauce comes to a boil, thickens and is smooth . Lower the heat, stir the remaining Y2 cup of cream into the sauce, and add the dill, the remaining Y2 teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of pepper.

Add the meatballs and the liquid that has accumulated around them to the skillet, and stir gently until the meatballs are evenly moistened with the sauce. Simmer partially covered for 1 0 minutes, until the meatballs are fully cooked and no trace of pink shows when they are pierced deeply with the point of a small knife. Taste for seasoning and serve at once from a heated bowl or deep platter.

Stuffed Spareribs

To serve 4

2 strips of spareribs, each about 1 0 inches long, trimmed o f excess fat (about 3 to 3 Y2 pounds in all )

3 teaspoons salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 pound pitted dried prunes, halved

( about 2 cups) 4 large firm apples, preferably green

cooking apples, peeled, cored and cut into ;...2 -inch-thick slices

Y4 cup light-brown sugar 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . Sprinkle the meaty sides of the spareribs with 2 teaspoons of the salt and a few grindings of pepper. Place one strip of ribs meat side down and spread it evenly with all the prunes and apples. Sprinkle with the brown sugar, the remaining salt and the cinnamon, and cover with the other strip of spareribs, meat side up . Tie the two together, crosswise and lengthwise, securely enclosing the stuffing. Place the ribs on a rack set in a shallow roasting pan and bake in the middle of the oven for 1 Y2 hours, or until the ribs show no resistance when pierced with the tip of a knife. Cut away the strings and serve the spareribs.

58

Spareribs and Sauerkraut

To serve 8 to 1 0

2 pounds fresh sauerkraut 4 pounds spareribs, trimmed of

excess fat and cut into 2- or 3-rib serving pieces

2 teaspoons salt Y2 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper V<! cup vegetable oil 3 medium-sized onions, peeled and

cut crosswise into V<!-inch-thick slices

1 medium-sized carrot, scraped and finely grated

1 cup dry white wine Y2 cup water 1 teaspoon caraway seeds 4 medium-sized tart cooking apples,

peeled, cored and cut into Y2 -inch rings

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . Drain the sauerkraut, wash it thoroughly under cold running water, and then let it soak in a pot of water for 1 0 to 20 minutes, depending upon its acidity. A handful at a time, squeeze the sauerkraut until it is completely dry. Then separate the clumps into strands and set the sauerkraut aside.

Pat the spareribs dry with paper towels and season them on both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and the Y2 teaspoon of pepper. In a heavy 1 2 -inch skillet, warm the oil over high heat until a light haze forms above it. Brown the spareribs, 4 or 5 at a time, turning them frequently with tongs and regulating the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. As they brown, transfer the ribs to a plate.

Add the onions to the fat remaining in the skillet and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes , until they are soft and delicately browned. Stir in the sauerkraut, carrot, wine, water, the remaining teaspoon of salt and the caraway seeds.

Spread half of the sauerkraut mixture on the bottom of a heavy 5 - to 6-quart casserole and cover it with the spareribs, arranged in one layer if possible. Spread the remaining sauerkraut mixture over the ribs and scatter the apple rings on top . Cover the casserole and bake in the middle of the oven for 1 hour . Remove the lid and continue to bake for about 30

minutes longer, o r until t h e sauerkraut has absorbed most o f the liquid and the meat on the spareribs shows no resistance when p ierced with the point of a small, sharp knife. Taste for seasoning and serve at once, directly from the casserole.

59

Meat Loaf with Bacon

To serve 6

2 pounds lean ground beef chuck 1 pound lean ground pork 2 cups finely chopped onions 1 cup soft fresh crumbs made from

homemade-type white bread,

pulverized in a blender or finely shredded with a fork

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic Y2 teaspoon crumbled dried thyme 1 egg 6 slices lean bacon

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . Combine the beef, pork, onions, bread crumbs, garlic, thyme and egg in a deep bowl and knead them vigorously with your hands. Then, with a large wooden spoon, beat until the mixture is smooth and fluffy.

Arrange 4 of the bacon slices side by side in a large shallow roasting pan. Pat the meat mixture into a rectangular loaf about 9 inches long, 5 inches wide, and 3 or 4 inches high . Place the loaf in the pan on top of the bacon and drape the remaining bacon lengthwise over the loaf .

Bake in the middle of the oven for about 1 Y2 hours . To test for doneness, pierce the loaf deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife. The j uices that trickle out should be clear yellow ; if they are still tinged with pink, bake the meat loaf until the j uices are clear .

Using a wide metal spatula, transfer the meat loaf to a heated platter and serve at once.

Veal Stew with Dumplings

To serve 8 to 1 0

VEAL STEW

6 pounds boneless breast of veal, trimmed of excess fat and cartilage and cut into 2 Y2 -by-1 Y2- inch strips

1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 6 to 10 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons vegetable oil 6Y2 cups chicken stock, fresh or

canned 1 cup finely chopped onions Y3 cup flour 3 sprigs fresh parsley 1 medium-sized bay leaf Y<1 teaspoon crumbled dried thyme

Pat the strips of veal completely dry with paper towels. Place the meat in a bowl. Add 1 teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of black pepper, and toss about with a spoon to season the meat evenly. In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with the oil over high heat.

60

When the foam subsides, add 5 or 6 pieces of veal and, turning frequently, cook only until they are no longer pink. Do not let them brown. Transfer the veal to a bowl and repeat the entire procedure with the remaining pieces, cooking them 5 or 6 at a time over high heat and adding up to 4 tablespoons more butter to the skillet if necessary.

Pour off all the fat remaining in the skillet and in its place add Y2 cup of the chicken stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, meanwhile scraping in any brown particles that cling to the bottom and sides of the pan. Pour the stock over the veal and set aside.

In a heavy 6- to 8-quart casserole, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat. Add the onions and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Add the flour and mix well . Stirring the mixture constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the remaining 6 cups of chicken stock in a slow, thin stream and cook until the liquid comes to a boil, th ickens slightly and is smooth.

Stir in the veal and the stock from the bowl and add the parsley, bay leaf and thyme. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for 1 Y2 hours, or until the veal is tender and shows no resistance when pierced with the point of a small, sharp knife.

D U M P L INGS

2 cups milk 2 tablespoons butter Y2 teaspoon salt

Y2 cup farina 1 egg, lightly beaten 6 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley Ys teaspoon white pepper

About 1 0 minutes before the veal is done, prepare the dumplings in the following fashion : In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the milk, 2 tablespoons of butter and Y2 teaspoon of salt, and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Stirring constantly, pour in the farina in a thin stream and cook until the mixture is thick enough to draw away from the sides of the pan in a solid mass. Remove the pan from the heat and beat in the egg, parsley and white pepper.

Y2 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon juice

With a slotted spoon, transfer the veal strips to a plate. Strain the entire contents of the casserole through a fine sieve, pressing down hard on the onions and herbs to extract all their juices before discarding them. Return the liquid to the casserole, add the cream and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Stir in the lemon j uice and taste for seasoning. Return the veal to the casserole and mix wel l with the sauce . Then drop the dumplings into the simmering sauce by the teaspoonful . Cover tightly and cook for 5 or 6 minutes, or until the dumplings are tender . Serve at once, directly from the casserole.

6 1

Veal Steaks with Apple Rings in Cream

To serve 6

4 tablespoons butter 2 medium-sized apples, cored but

not peeled, and cut crosswise into li -inch rings

6 five- to six-ounce boneless veal round steaks, sliced Y2 inch thick and trimmed of excess fat

2 teaspoons salt

li teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Y2 cup flour li cup vegetable oil Y2 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon strained fresh lemon

juice

In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the apple rings and cook, turning them frequently with a slotted spatula, until they are tender and delicately browned. Remove the skillet from the heat and cover to keep the apple rings warm.

Pat the veal steaks completely dry with paper towels and season them with the salt and pepper. One at a time, dip the steaks in the flour to coat both sides, then shake off the excess flour.

Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter with the oil in a heavy 1 2 -inch skillet. Fry the steaks for about 4 minutes on each side, or until they are tender and show no resistance when pierced with the point of a small, sharp knife . Regulate the heat so that the steaks brown richly and evenly without burning.

Transfer them to a heated platter and drape foil over them to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce. Pour off the fat remaining in the skillet and in its place add the cream. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, meanwhile scraping in the browned particles that cling to the bottom and sides of the pan. Reduce the heat to low and stir until the cream thickens slightly. Stir in the lemon j uice and taste for seasoning.

To serve, arrange the apple rings on top of the veal steaks and pour the sauce over them.

62

Braised Lamb Shoulder with Green Beans

To serve 6 to 8

4 tablespoons butter 1 cup finely chopped onions Y-1 cup finely chopped carrots 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic A 4}-2- to 5 -pound boned lamb

shoulder, trimmed of all fat and outer skin, rolled tightly and tied in 3 or 4 places

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 cups chicken stock, fresh or canned

1 teaspoon crumbled dried rosemary 1 teaspoon plus 3 tablespoons salt Y2 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 6 quarts water 3 pounds firm fresh green string

beans, trimmed

Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 ° . In a heavy casserole j ust large enough to hold the lamb shoulder comfortably, melt the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the onions, carrots and garlic and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft but not brown. Set the casserole aside off the h eat.

Pat the lamb shoulder completely dry with paper towels. Pour the oil into a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 - inch skillet and heat until a l ight haze forms above it. Brown the lamb in the hot oil, turning it frequently and regulating the heat so that it colors richly and evenly on all sides without burning.

Transfer the lamb to the casserole . Pour off the fat remaining in the skillet and in its place add the chicken stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, meanwhile scraping in the brown particles that cling to the bottom and sides of the pan. Stir the rosemary, 1 teaspoon of salt and the pepper into the stock, then pour the mixture over the lamb.

Bring the casserole to a boil over h igh heat, cover tightly, and braise in the middle of the oven for 3 to 3 Y2 hours, turning the lamb over three or four times . The lamb is done when it shows no resistance if pierced deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife. Place the lamb on a heated platter, cut away the strings, and drape loosely with foil to keep it warm while you prepare the beans and the sauce.

Bring 6 quarts of water and the remaining 3 tablespoons salt to a boil over high heat in a large pot . Drop the beans in by the handful, reduce the heat to moderate, and boil uncovered for 1 0 to 1 5 minutes, until the beans are tender. Do not overcook them. Immediately drain them in a large sieve or colander and arrange them attractively around the lamb.

Meanwhile, strain the contents of the casserole through a fine sieve set over a small saucepan, pressing down hard on the vegetables with the back of a spoon to extract all their j uices before discarding them. Skim the fat from the surface, then boil the strained sauce briskly, uncovered, until it has the intensity of flavor you desire. Taste for seasoning, pour the sauce into a bowl or sauceboat, and serve with the lamb.

63

Potato Sausage

To make 4 sausages, each about 1 8 inches long

Four 24-inch lengths of hog sausage casing

6 or 7 medium-sized boiling potatoes ( about 2 Y2 pounds ) , peeled and cut into chunks

1 large onion, peeled and cut into chunks

% pound lean ground beef, preferably chuck

Y2 pound lean ground pork 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic Y2 teaspoon ground allspice Ys teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon whole black

peppercorns, coarsely crushed with a mortar and pestle or spread between wax paper and crushed with a rolling pin

1 tablespoon salt Ys teaspoon saltpeter

Place the sausage casing in a bowl and pour in enough lukewarm water to cover it by at least 1 inch . Soak at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours , or until th� casing is soft and pliable.

Meanwhile put the potatoes and onion through the coarsest blade of a food grinder into a deep bowl. Add the beef, pork, garlic, allspice, sugar, crushed pepper, salt and saltpeter. Knead the mixture vigorously with both hands, then beat with a wooden spoon until smooth and fluffy. To taste for seasoning, fry a spoonful of the potato-and-meat mixture in a small skillet until no trace of pink remains. Then, if you wish, stir into the uncooked mixture any additional seasonings you think it needs . Drape a dampened towel over the bowl and let the sausage filling rest at room temperature for about an hour.

Wash the sausage casing thoroughly but gently under cold, slowly running water to remove all traces of the salt in which it was preserved. Hold one end of each length up to the faucet and run cold water through to clean the inside of the casing.

To make each sausage, tie a knot in a length of sausage casing about 3 inches from one end. Fit the open end snugly over the funnel ( or "horn" ) on the sausage-making attachment of a food grinder. Then carefully inch the rest of the casing up onto the funnel , squeezing it together like the folds of an accordion .

Spoon the sausage filling into the mouth of the grinder and, with a wooden pestle, push it slowly through into the casing. As you fill it, the casing will expand and gradually ease away from the funnel in a ropelike coil . Fill the casing to within a few inches of the funnel end but do not try to stuff it too tightly or it may burst . Slip the sausage off the funnel and tie another knot at the open end . Knot and fill the remaining three lengths of casing in similar fashion .

You may cook the sausages immediately or cover them tightly with

64

aluminum foil or plastic wrap and place them in the refrigerator for a day or two to develop flavor. Tightly covered they can safely be kept refrigerated for five or six days .

Before cooking a sausage, prick the casing in five or six places with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife. Coil the sausage in concentric circles in a heavy 8- to 1 0- inch skillet and pour in enough water to cover the sausage completely. Then bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Cook uncovered for 3 0 to 40 minutes, until the liquid in the pan has evaporated and only the fat given off by the sausage remains.

Reduce the heat to low and, turning the sausage once or twice with tongs, continue frying for about 1 0 minutes longer, or until it is brown all over. If you prefer, you may slice the poached sausage into V2 -inchthick rounds and fry the slices in a little vegetable oil until no trace of pink shows in the meat.

NOTE : If you do not have a food grinder with a sausage-stuffing attachment, combine the potatoes , onion, meats and seasonings as described above. Tie a knot about 3 inches from one end of one length of casing and fit the open end over the spout of a wide-based funnel, easing most of the casing up onto the spout. Then spoon the meat mixture into the mouth of the funnel and push it through into the casing with your fingers . Knot the open end and roll the sausage gently on a firm flat surface to distribute the filling evenly.

Pork Sausages in Sour Cream

To serve 4 to 6 as a breakfast meat

1 pound breakfast-type link pork sausage, separated into individual sausages

V2 cup water 1 cup sour cream 1 tablespoon flour 2 teaspoons prepared mustard

Combine the sausages and water in a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly, and simmer for 5 minutes . Remove the cover and, turning the sausages occasionally with tongs, cook over moderate heat until all the liquid in the pan has evaporated and the sausages are brown on all sides.

Transfer the sausages to a heated platter and drape foil over them to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce. With a whisk, beat the sour cream, flour and mustard together in a small bowl and pour the mixture into the fat remaining in the skillet . Whisking constantly with a wire whisk, cook over moderate heat for 2 or 3 minutes , until the sauce has thickened slightly. Do not let it boil . Taste for seasoning, then spoon the sauce over the sausages and serve at once.

65

Oxtail Stew

To serve 4 to 6

3 pounds oxtails, cut into 2Y2-inch pieces

1 teaspoon salt � teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper Y2 cup all-purpose flour � cup vegetable oil 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut

into bits 1 cup finely chopped onions

� cup scraped, finely chopped carrots

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic Y2 cup dry red wine 1 Y2 cups chicken stock, fresh or

canned 2 tablespoons tomato paste � teaspoon ground thyme 1 small bay leaf

Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 ° . Season the oxtails with the salt and pepper, then roll the pieces in the flour one at a time and shake briskly to rid them of excess flour .

In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet, heat the oil and butter bits over high heat until the butter is melted and the mixture is very hot but not smoking. Brown the oxtails, 6 or 8 pieces at a time, turning them with tongs and regulating the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. As they brown, transfer them to a heavy 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel casserole.

When all the oxtails have been browned, pour off and discard all but 2 or 3 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the onions, carrot and garlic and, stirring constantly, fry over moderate heat for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the vegetables are lightly colored. Pour in the wine and let it boil for a minute or two, then add the chicken stock, tomato paste, thyme and bay leaf. Bring the mixture back to a boil, then pour it over the oxtails.

Bring the casserole to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly, then cover it tightly and place it in the middle of the oven, regulating the heat if necessary to keep the casserole at a slow simmer. Cook the oxtail stew for about 3 hours, until tender.

With a l arge spoon, skim off and discard as much fat as possible from the sauce. Taste for seasoning, and serve the oxtail stew directly from the casserole or from a large heated tureen.

66

Buffalo Roast

To serve 14 to 1 6

MARINADE

2 cups hard cider 2 cups fresh sweet cider Y2 cup red wine vinegar 2 medium-sized onions, peeled and

coarsely chopped 1 medium-sized carrot, scraped and

coarsely chopped 3 sprigs fresh parsley

Y<i teaspoon crumbled dried thyme 1 medium-sized bay leaf, crumbled 6 whole juniper berries 10 whole black peppercorns

A 7-pound eye rib buffalo roast, or substitute venison, reindeer or any other game meat

In a 2- to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan combine the hard cider, sweet cider, vinegar, onions, carrot, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, juniper berries and peppercorns . Bring the marinade to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for 30 minutes . Pour the marinade into a deep crock or a stainless-steel or enameled casserole large enough to contain the meat.

Cool the marinade to room temperature, then add the meat and turn it over to coat it evenly on all sides. The marinade should come at least halfway up the sides of the meat ; add as much water as necessary. Cover with a lid or with foil and marinate the meat at room temperature for at least 24 hours, turning it over every few hours .

Preheat the oven to 5 00 ° . Remove the meat from the marinade, pat it completely dry with paper towels, and place it on a rack in a large shallow roasting pan. For the most predictable results , insert the tip of a meat thermometer at least 2 inches into the th ickest part of the roast . Strain the marinade through a fine sieve set over a bowl , reserve the liquid, and discard the vegetables and seasonings .

Roast the meat in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to 3 5 0 ° , and baste the meat with Y2 cup of the marinade. Continue to roast, basting with a similar amount of the marinade every 1 5 minutes , until the meat is cooked to your taste. A meat thermometer will register 1 3 0 ° to 1 40 ° when the meat is rare, 1 5 0 ° to 1 60 ° when medium, and 1 60 ° to 1 70 ° when it is well done. If you are not using a thermometer, start timing the roast after you reduce the heat to 3 5 0 ° . For this size roast, you can estimate approximately 1 6 minutes to the pound for rare meat, 1 8 minutes to the pound for medium rare, 20 minutes to the pound for medium, and 26 minutes to the pound for well done. Transfer to a heated platter and let it rest for 1 5 minutes for easier carving.

This roast is best accompanied by peeled potatoes cooked in the roasting pan with the meat.

67

Stewed Rabbit

To serve 6 to 8

1 Yz cups beer 1 Yz cups white distilled vinegar 1 large onion, peeled and thinly

sl iced 2 tablespoons mixed pickling spice 1 tablespoon dark-brown sugar 1 teaspoon salt 8 whole black peppercorns, coarsely

crushed with a kitchen mallet or the side of a cleaver

A 5- to 6-pound mature rabbit, or

two 2\/z to 3-pound rabbits, thoroughly defrosted if frozen, cut into serving pieces

3 sl ices lean bacon, cut into V<! -inch dice

Yz cup plus 4 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon sugar 3 gingersnaps, pulverized in a

blender or crushed with a rolling pin

Yz cup sour cream

Combine the beer, vinegar, onion, pickling spice, brown sugar, salt and peppercorns in a 2- to 3 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and let the marinade cool to room temperature. Place the rabbit pieces in a heavy 6- to 8 -quart enameled casserole, pour in the marinade and turn the pieces about to moisten them evenly. Cover tightly with a l id or foil and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, turning the pieces two or three times .

Drain the pieces and pat them completely dry with paper towels . Strain the marinade through a fine sieve into a bowl and set aside ; discard the onion slices and the spices .

Wipe the casserole dry, add the bacon dice, and fry them over moderate heat, stirring frequently until the bits are crisp and brown and have rendered all their fat. With a slotted spoon, set them aside on paper towels to drain.

Dip 3 or 4 rabbit pieces in Yz cup of the flour and turn them to coat all sides ; shake vigorously to remove the excess flour. Melt the butter in the fat remaining in the casserole. When the foam subsides, brown the rabbit in the hot fat, turning it with tongs or a spatula and regulating the heat so that it colors richly and evenly without burning. Transfer the rabbit to a plate, then flour and brown the remaining pieces in the same way.

Return all the rabbit pieces to the casserole, sprinkle them with the tablespoon of sugar and pour in V<! cup of the reserved marinade. Cover tightly and simmer over low heat for 1 to 1 Yz hours, or until the rabbit is tender and shows no resistance when pierced with the point of a small, sharp knife. Arrange the rabbit pieces attractively on a heated platter and drape with foil to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce .

68

Skim the fat from the surface of the liquid remaining in the casserole. Bring to a boil over high heat and mix in 3 tablespoons of flour and the pulverized gingersnaps . Stirring the mixture constantly with a wire whisk, pour in 2 cups of the reserved marinade and cook until the sauce comes to a boil, thickens heavily and is smooth. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the sauce for 2 or 3 minutes . In a bowl, blend the sour cream with the remaining tablespoon of flour . Stirring the sauce with the whisk, pour in the sour cream and cook until it is heated through. Add the reserved bacon bits and taste for seasoning, then ladle the sauce over the rabbit and serve at once.

Smothered Reindeer Steaks

To serve 4

5 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 large onions ( about 2 pounds ) ,

peeled and sliced crosswise into Y4-inch-thick rings

2 reindeer leg round steaks, each about 1 2 ounces, cut Y2 inch thick and with the parchmentlike fell removed

4 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

In a heavy 1 2 -inch skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in 1 tablespoon of the oil over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, drop in the onions and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently and regulating the heat so that they brown deeply without burning. With a slotted spoon, transfer the onions to a plate and cover with foil to keep them warm while frying the steaks .

Add the remaining butter and oil to the skillet and when the fat begins to sizzle add the steaks . Fry them over moderate heat for 4 or 5 minutes on each side, or until they are done to your liking. Ideally the steaks should be slightly pink inside.

Transfer the steaks to a heated platter, spread the fried onions over them, and sprinkle the top with the parsley. Serve at once.

69

Venison Sauerbraten

To serve 8

3 cups white distilled vinegar 4112 cups cold water 2 medium-sized onions, peeled and

cut crosswise into Y-1- inch-thick slices

3 small bay leaves 3 whole cloves

8 whole black peppercorns 4112 to 5 pounds venison stewing

meat in 1 piece 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Y-1 cup flour 112 cup dry red wine Salt Freshly ground black pepper

Starting three days ahead, combine the vinegar, 3 cups of the water, the onions, bay leaves, cloves and peppercorns in a 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the pan from the heat and let the marinade cool to room temperature.

Place the venison in a deep crock or a deep enameled or stainless-steel pot j ust large enough to hold it comfortably and pour the marinade over it. The marinade should come at least halfway up the sides of the meat ; if necessary, stir in more water. Turn the venison in the marinade to moisten it on all sides . Then cover the pot tightly with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least three days, turning the meat over twice a day.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . Remove the meat from the marinade and pat it completely dry with paper towels. Scoop out and reserve about half of the onion slices . Strain the remaining marinade through a fine sieve into a bowl and discard the remaining onions and the other seasonings .

In a heavy 5 - to 6-quart casserole, melt the butter with the oil over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the venison and brown it on all sides, turning it frequently and regulating the heat so that it browns richly and evenly without burning. Add the reserved onions and 1 quart of the marinade, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover tightly and braise in the middle of the oven for about 2 hours, or until the venison is tender and shows no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife.

Transfer the venison to a heated platter and drape it loosely with foil to keep it warm while you prepare the sauce.

Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve set over a bowl, pressing down hard on the onions to extract all their j uice before discarding them. Measure the liquid, pour it into a small saucepan and skim the fat from the surface. You will need 2 112 cups of liquid for the sauce. If you have more liquid, boil it briskly over high heat until it is reduced to that amount; if you have less, add some of the reserved marinade. Make a smooth paste of the flour and 112 cup of cold water, then stir in the remaining cup of water.

70

Bring the cooking liquid to a simmer over moderate heat. Stirring constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the flour mixture in a slow, thin stream, and cook over h igh heat until the sauce comes to a boil, thickens l ightly and is smooth . Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 3 or 4 minutes to remove the taste of flour. Stir in the wine and season to taste with salt and a few grindings of pepper. Pour the sauce into a bowl or sauceboat and serve it with the venison.

Venison Mincemeat

To make about 2 Y2 quarts

2 pounds boneless venison Y2 pound beef suet, finely chopped 1 Y2 pounds apples, peeled, cored

and coarsely chopped ( 4 cups ) 2 pints sour cherries, pitted 1 Y2 cups seedless raisins Y2 cup finely chopped citron Y4 cup candied orange peel Y4 cup candied lemon peel Y4 cup lemon juice 2 teaspoons grated lemon rind Y2 cup orange juice

4 teaspoons grated orange rind Y2 teaspoon salt Y4 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 2 cups sugar 2 teaspoons ground allspice 1 teaspoon ground mace 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 quart apple cider 1 cup brandy

Place the venison in an 8- to 1 0-quart pot or casserole and add enough water to cover the meat by 1 inch . Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat and s immer, partially covered, for 2 hours, or until the meat offers only the slightest resistance when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife. Drain the venison, pat it dry with paper towels, and cut it into l -inch chunks. Mince the meat by putting it through the medium blade of a food grinder, or chop it fine with a sharp knife .

Transfer the ground venison to a 3- to 4-quart casserole and add all the remaining ingredients except the brandy. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat, and simmer partially covered for 1 Y2 hours, stirring frequently to prevent the mixture from sticking to the pan. Remove from the heat and stir in the brandy, then ladle the mincemeat into hot, sterilized jars following the directions for canning and sealing on page 1 06 . Store at room temperature for at least 2 weeks before using as a filling for pies or tarts .

7 1

Roast Leg of Venison

To serve 10 to 1 2

2 tablespoons butter 1 Y2 cups fine! y chopped onions 1 medium-sized carrot, scraped and

finely chopped Y1 cup finely chopped celery 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 3 cups dry red wine 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon cold water

1 medium-sized bay leaf, crumbled 6 whole juniper berries and 1 0

whole black peppercorns, wrapped in a towel and coarsely crushed with a rolling pin

1 tablespoon salt A 10 - to 1 1 -pound leg of venison 1 tablespoon cornstarch

In a 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the onions, carrot, celery and garlic and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Stir in the wine, 1 cup of the water, the bay leaf, the j uniper berries and peppercorns, and the salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the pan from the heat and let the marinade cool to room temperature.

Place the venison in a roasting pan large enough to hold it comfortably, pour the marinade over it, and turn the meat in the marinade to moisten it on all sides. Cover tightly with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 2 hours, turning the meat two or three times .

Preheat the oven to 4 2 5 ° . Insert the tip of a meat thermometer at least 2 inches into the thickest part of the meat, and roast the venison on the middle shelf of the oven for 1 5 minutes . Reduce the heat to 3 75 ° and continue roasting for 1 hour and 1 5 minutes longer, basting the venison every 1 5 minutes with the l iquids in the bottom of the pan. When done, the meat thermometer should register 1 4 0 ° to 1 5 0 ° , and the roast should be slightly pink. Transfer it to a large heated platter and let it rest for 1 0 minutes or so for easier carving.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve set over a bowl, pressing down hard on the vegetables to extract all their j uice before discarding them. Measure the liquid, pour it into a small saucepan and skim the fat from the surface. You will need 2 cups of liquid for the sauce. If you have more, boil it briskly until it is reduced to that amount ; if you have less, add as much water as you need to make the required amount. Make a smooth paste of the cornstarch and the remaining tablespoon of cold water.

Bring the cooking liquid to a simmer over moderate heat and, stirring constantly with a wire whisk, pour in the cornstarch mixture. Continue to simmer until the sauce thickens lightly and is smooth . Taste for seasoning, pour the sauce into a bowl or sauceboat, and serve at once with the roast venison .

72

Elk Meatballs in Sour Cream

To make about 4 dozen l - inch meatballs

6 tablespoons butter � cup finely chopped onions 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 2 pounds ground elk or other

ground venison 1 pound lean ground pork 1 cup soft fresh crumbs made from


1 egg, l ightly beaten

� cup milk Y-1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon crumbled dried thyme 1 tablespoon salt Y-1 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cups chicken stock, fresh or

canned 1 cup sour cream 2 tablespoons flour 2 teaspoons dry mustard

In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat . Add the onions and garlic and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown.

With a rubber spatula, scrape the contents of the skillet into a deep bowl. Set the pan aside. Add the elk, pork, bread crumbs, egg, milk, parsley, thyme, salt and pepper to the onion-garlic mixture and knead vigorously with both hands. Then beat the mixture with a wooden spoon until it is smooth and fluffy. To shape each meatball, pinch off about 1 tablespoon of the mixture and roll it into a ball 1 inch in diameter.

Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter with the oil in the reserved skillet and brown the meatballs, 1 0 or 1 2 at a time. Turn the balls frequently with a slotted spatula and regulate the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. As they brown, transfer them to a plate.

Pour off the fat remaining in the skillet and in its place add the chicken stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, meanwhile scraping in the brown particles that cling to the bottom and sides of the pan. Return all the meatballs to the skillet together with the l iquid that has accumulated around them and turn the balls about to moisten them evenly. Reduce the h�at and simmer partially covered for 20 minutes , or until no trace of pink shows when a meatball is pierced with the point of a knife.

Transfer the meatballs to a heated platter and drape foil over them to keep them warm. With a wire whisk, beat the sour cream, flour and mustard together in a bowl until they are well blended. Then add the sourcream mixture to the liquid remaining in the skillet and, whisking constantly, cook over low heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until the sauce is smooth and lightly thickened. Taste for ,seasoning, then pour the sauce over the meatballs . Serve at once with hot buttered noodles or rice.

73

Mashed Turnips

To serve 8 to 1 0

3 pounds yellow turnips, peeled and cut into � -inch cubes ( about 7 cups )

1 � teaspoons salt 4 tablespoons unsalted butter,

softened Y<i teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper � teaspoon sugar � teaspoon ground nutmeg,

preferably freshly grated

Place the turnips in a 6- to 8 -quart pot and pour in enough water to cover them by about 1 inch . Add 1 teaspoon of the salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat, partially cover the pan, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the turnips show no resistance when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife . Drain in a colander, discarding the water, and return the turnips to the pot in which they were cooked . Slide the pan back and forth over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until they are dry. Then, in a heated mixing bowl, puree the turnips either by mashing them with a potato masher or by forcing them through a potato ricer or through a coarse sieve with the back of a spoon. Beat the butter into the puree a tablespoon at a time, then beat in the remaining salt and the pepper, sugar and Y<i teaspoon of the nutmeg. Taste for seasoning and serve at once in a heated vegetable dish, sprinkled with the remaining nutmeg.

74

Baked Stuffed Acorn Squash

To serve 4

2 acorn squash, about % pound each

4 teaspoons butter 1 Y2 teaspoons salt

Hl teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Y4 cup light cream Ys teaspoon ground nutmeg

Preheat the oven to 400 ° . With a sharp knife, cut each of the squash in half lengthwise. Scrape out all the seeds and with a spoon remove any stringy filaments and fibers . Drop a teaspoon of butter into each half and sprinkle with the salt and pepper . Arrange the squash halves side by side, hollow surfaces up, in a shallow, ovenproof baking dish large enough to hold them comfortably. Pour enough boiling water down the sides of the dish to rise about 1 inch around the squash. Bake in the center of the oven for about 50 minutes, or until the squash are tender and show no resistance when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife .

To make the stuffing in a blender, pour all the melted butter from the squash into the jar of the blender and set aside. With a small spoon, scoop out the pulp of each squash, being careful not to pierce through the shell . Reserve the shells . Add the pulp to the blender along with the cream and nutmeg. Blend at high speed for about 30 to 40 seconds, then stop the machine and scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula. Recover the j ar and blend again for about 30 seconds longer, until the mixture is a smooth puree. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt, pepper and nutmeg if you like.

To make the stuffing by hand, pour all the melted butter from the squash into a mixing bowl and, after removing the pulp from the squash as described above, add it to the bowl . Mash and beat the pulp and butter together with a large wooden spoon, then beat in the cream, a tablespoon at a time. Add the nutmeg and continue to beat until the mixture is a smooth puree. Taste and add more salt, pepper and nutmeg if you like.

However you have made the stuffing, spoon it into each scooped-out acorn half, mounding the tops slightly. Return them to the baking dish, arranging them as before. Place the dish in the center of the 400 ° oven and bake for 20 minutes, until the stuffing is a light golden brown. Serve at once directly from the dish .

7 5

Stuffed Onions

To serve 6

1 tablespoon butter, softened, plus 4 tablespoons butter

6 eight-ounce onions, peeled 4 or 5 slices homemade-type white

bread, trimmed of crusts and cut into Y4-inch cubes ( about 1 cup )

Y2 pound breakfast-type sausage meat

Y4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley Y2 teaspoon crumbled dried sage Y2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the tablespoon of softened butter evenly over the bottom of a baking dish large enough to hold the onions in one layer. Set aside.

Drop the onions into enough boiling water to cover them by at least 1 inch and boil briskly for 1 0 minutes. Drain the onions and, when they are cool enough to handle, cut a slice about 1 inch thick off the top of each onion and discard it. Then hollow out the onion with a small spoon to make a boatlike shell about Y4 inch thick. Invert the onion shells on paper towels to drain and finely chop enough of the scooped-out onion centers to make 1 cup.

In a heavy 8- to 1 0-inch skillet melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the bread cubes and, tossing them about frequently, fry until they are golden brown on all sides . With a slotted spoon, transfer the cubes to a deep bowl .

Add the sausage meat to the skillet and fry over moderate heat for 5 minutes, stirring and flattening the meat with the back of a fork to break up any lumps. Add the chopped onions and, still stirring from time to time, cook for 5 minutes longer, or until the onions are soft and translucent and the sausage shows no trace of pink. Do not let the mixture brown. With a rubber spatula, scrape the entire contents of the skillet into a sieve to drain off the excess fat . Then add the sausage and onions to the fried bread cubes . Add the parsley, sage, salt and a few grindings of pepper, and toss all the ingredients together gently but thoroughly. Taste for seasoning.

Spoon the sausage mixture into the onion shells, dividing it equally among them. Then arrange the stuffed onions side by side in the buttered baking dish and bake in the middle of the oven for 4 5 minutes, or until the onions are tender but not falling apart.

Serve at once directly from the baking dish, or arranged attractively on a heated platter.

76

Basque Potatoes

To serve 4

6 medium-sized boiling potatoes, peeled

6 slices bacon Yz cup finely chopped onions

4 eggs 1 teaspoon salt J/,j teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper

Drop the potatoes into enough l ightly salted boiling water to cover them by at least 1 inch, and boil briskly until they are almost tender and show only slight resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife. Drain off the water, return the pan to low heat, and slide it back and forth for a minute or so to dry the potatoes completely. Cut the potatoes crosswise into Ys -inch-thick slices and set aside .

In a heavy 1 2 - inch skillet, preferably one with a nonstick cooking surface, fry the bacon over moderate heat, turning the slices frequently until they are crisp and brown and have rendered all their fat. Transfer the slices to paper towels to drain, then crumble them into bits .

Pour all but about 4 tablespoons of the bacon fat into a heatproof cup or bowl ; set aside. Add the onions to the fat remaining in the skillet and, stirring frequently, cook over moderate heat for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Carefully add the potatoes and mix them with the onions, using a wooden spoon. Slide the pan back and forth until the potato sl ices lie flat. Then cook over moderate heat until the bottom side of the potatoes is golden brown.

Slide the spatula around the edges of the skillet and as far under the potatoes as you can without crumbling them. Place an inverted plate over the pan and, grasping plate and skillet together firmly, turn them over. Slide the potatoes back into the skillet, browned side up, first adding a few spoonfuls of the reserved fat to the pan if it is not the nonstick type.

Cook over moderate heat for 2 or 3 minutes to brown the bottom, then reduce the heat to low. Meanwhile beat the eggs, salt and pepper with a wire whisk or rotary beater until they are well combined . Pour the eggs over the potatoes and sprinkle the reserved bacon bits on top. Cover the skillet and cook for 5 or 6 minutes, or until the eggs are set and firm to the touch . Serve at once, directly from the skillet.

77

Mushroom Croquettes To make about 5 dozen 2 - inch-long

croquettes

4 tablespoons butter 1 cup finely chopped onions 1 pound firm fresh mushrooms,

wiped with a dampened towel, trimmed and finely chopped (about 4 cups )

5 eggs 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh

parsley 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 4 cups soft fresh crumbs made from


Vegetable oil for deep frying

In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 - inch skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the onions and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes . When the onions are soft and translucent, add the mushrooms. Stirring from time to time, cook for 8 to 1 0 minutes, or until almost all of the l iquid that accumulates in the pan has evaporated. Do not let the vegetables brown.

With a rubber spatula, scrape the entire contents of the skillet into a deep bowl. Cool to room temperature, then beat in 2 of the eggs and the parsley, Worcestershire sauce, salt and a few grindings of pepper . Add 2 cups of the bread crumbs and mix well . Spread in a shallow dish, cover tightly with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour, or until the mixture is firm .

Before shaping the croquettes, beat the remaining 3 eggs l ightly with a whisk or fork, and spread the remaining 2 cups of bread crumbs on a large plate or a piece of wax paper. For each croquette, scoop up about 1 tablespoon of the chilled mushroom mixture and roll it between your hands to make a sausagelike cylinder about 2 inches long and % inch in diameter. One at a time, immerse the croquettes in the beaten eggs and roll them in the crumbs . Arrange them side by side on wax paper and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes longer to firm the coating.

Pour vegetable oil into a deep fryer or large heavy saucepan to a depth of 2 or 3 inches and heat it until the oil reaches a temperature of 3 7 0 ° on a deep-frying thermometer. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to its lowest setting. Line a large shallow baking pan with a double thickness of paper towels and place it in the oven.

Deep-fry the croquettes, 7 or 8 at a time, turning them frequently with a slotted spoon, for 3 or 4 minutes , or until they are golden on all sides. As they brown, transfer them to the paper-lined pan and keep them warm in the oven while you deep-fry the remaining croquettes .

Serve the croquettes hot, as an accompaniment to drinks, a first course or a vegetable course.

78

Baked Mushroom Caps with Fish Stuffing


2 tablespoons butter, softened, plus 6 tablespoons butter, plus 4 tablespoons butter, cut into �-inch bits

1 6 large firm fresh mushrooms, each about 2 inches in diameter

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic Y2 pound sole or flounder fillets,

finely chopped

2 eggs 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh

parsley Y2 teaspoon salt � teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper 6 tablespoons soft fresh crumbs

made from homemade-type white bread, pulverized in a blender or finely shredded with a fork

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the 2 tablespoons of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a baking dish large enough to hold the mushroom caps in one layer . Set aside.

Wipe the mushrooms with a dampened towel , remove the caps and set them aside. Trim the mushroom stems and chop them fine.

In a heavy 8 · to 1 0-inch skillet, melt the 6 tablespoons of butter. When the foam begins to subside, add the chopped mushroom stems and the garlic and, stirring frequently, simmer over low heat for 1 0 to 1 5 minutes , until the moisture that the mushrooms give off has evaporated. Do not let the mushrooms brown .

With a rubber spatula, scrape the contents of the skillet into a bowl . Add the fish, eggs, parsley, salt and pepper, and mix well . Spoon the fishstuffing mixture into the reserved mushroom caps, dividing it evenly among them and mounding the center slightly.

Sprinkle the mushrooms with the bread crumbs, dot the tops with the 4 tablespoons of butter bits, and arrange the caps side by side in the but· tered dish . Bake in the upper third of the oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes, or until the topping is golden brown.

Arrange the baked mushroom caps attractively on a heated platter and serve them at once.

79

Yellow Rice with Cold Fruit and Curry Sauce

To serve 6

FRUIT

1 pint (about 2 cups) fresh ripe strawberries

1 pint (about 3 cups) fresh ripe blueberries

1 pound ( about 3 cups ) fresh ripe sweet cherries

1 small ripe honeydew melon or cantaloupe

4 medium-sized firm ripe peaches 1 tablespoon fresh lemon j uice

Pick over the strawberries, blueberries and cherries one at a time, removing any stems or caps and discarding any fruit that is badly bruised or shows signs of mold . If you like, pit the cherries . Wash the fruits separately in a sieve or colander under cold running water, then shake them dry and spread on paper towels to drain.

Cut the melon in half crosswise, and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. With a melon baller, shape the melon meat into balls .

With a small knife, peel the peaches and cut each of them lengthwise into quarters . D iscard the stones . Drop the peach quarters into a small bowl, add the lemon juice to prevent discoloration, and turn the peaches about with a spoon until they are evenly coated. Then combine the strawberries, blueberries, cherries, melon balls and peach quarters in a serving bowl, cover with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Y E L LOW RICE

2 tablespoons butter 2 cups uncooked long-grain white

rice (not the converted variety )

1 quart boi l ing water � teaspoon finely crumbled saffron

threads or ground saffron 8 whole toasted almonds

In a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the rice and stir for 2 or 3 minutes, until the grains glisten with butter. Do not let the rice brown. Stir in the boiling water and saffron, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover tightly, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender and has absorbed all the l iquid in the pan.

C URRY SAUCE

1 cup dry white wine 2Yz cups chicken stock, fresh or

canned

2 tablespoons curry powder 2 tablespoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons cold water � cup seedless raisins

While the rice is simmering, prepare the sauce in the following fashion : Combine the wine, chicken stock and curry powder in a small enameled or stainless-steel pan and, stirring frequently, bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes . In

80

a small bowl or cup, stir the cornstarch and cold water together to make a smooth paste. Then, stirring the curry mixture constantly, pour in the cornstarch in a slow, thin stream and simmer until the sauce thickens lightly and is smooth. Stir in the raisins .

Spoon the rice into a 1 -quart mold or deep bowl, packing it in firmly with the back of the spoon. Then place an inverted serving plate over the mold and, grasping plate and mold together firmly, turn them over. Rap the plate sharply on a table and the rice should slide out easily. Arrange the toasted almonds attractively on top of the rice. Pour the sauce into a bowl or sauceboat and serve it with the yellow rice and the fresh fruit.

Country Baked Beans

To serve 4

1 quart water 1 cup ( about V2 pound) dried l ima

beans 1 teaspoon salt V2 pound lean bacon, finely

chopped V2 cup dark molasses 1 teaspoon prepared mustard Freshly ground black pepper Y4 cup dark·brown sugar

In a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan, bring the water to a boil over high heat. Drop in the beans and boil them briskly for 2 minutes . Turn off the heat and let the beans soak for 1 hour, then bring to a boil again and add the salt. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for about 45 minutes, or until the beans are tender but still intact .

Preheat the oven to 3 00 ° . Drain the beans through a large sieve set over a bowl and transfer them to a 1 V2 -quart casserole. Add 2 cups of the cooking liquid to the beans ; set the rest of the liquid aside. Stir in the bacon, molasses, mustard and a few grindings of pepper, and mix well .

Cover the casserole tightly and bake in the middle of the oven for 1 V2 hours. Check the beans from time to time and, if necessary, add a few spoonfuls of the reserved cooking liquid. Remove the cover, taste for seasoning, and sprinkle the beans with the brown sugar. Bake uncovered for about 30 minutes longer. Serve at once, directly from the casserole .

8 1

Tomato-Cheese Pie

To make one 9-inch pie

LATTICE PASTRY TOPPING

1 cup flour 1 Y2 teaspoons double-acting

baking powder

Y2 teaspoon salt Y2 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese 1 tablespoon butter, softened 1 tablespoon lard, softened � cup milk

Combine the flour, baking powder and Y2 teaspoon of salt, and sift them into a deep bowl . Add the cheese, 1 tablespoon of softened butter and the lard and, with your fingertips, rub the flour and fat together until they look l ike flakes of coarse meal .

Pour in the milk, toss together lightly, and knead until the dough is smooth and can be gathered into a compact ball . Wrap the dough in wax paper and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

TOMATO FILLING

1 tablespoon butter, softened, plus 2 tablespoons butter

� cup finely chopped shallots 1 cup soft fresh crumbs made from


� cup finely chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon crumbled dried basi l Ys teaspoon sugar Ys teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 9 medium-sized firm ripe tomatoes

( about 3 pounds )

When you are ready to make the pie, preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of softened butter evenly over the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie pan.

In a heavy 8- to 1 0-inch skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat . Add the shallots and, stirring constantly, cook for 4 or 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown. Add the bread crumbs and continue to stir until they are golden. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the parsley, basil, sugar, Ys teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of pepper.

Drop the tomatoes into a pan of boiling water, remove them after 1 5 seconds, and run them under cold water. Peel the tomatoes with a small, sharp knife, cut out the stems, then slice the tomatoes crosswise into Y2 -inch-thick rounds .

Place half of the tomato slices in the buttered pie pan and sprinkle them with half of the shallot-and-crumb mixture . Add the rest of the tomatoes and scatter the remaining shallot-and-crumb mixture on top .

On a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry dough out into a rough rectangle 1 2 inches long and 9 inches wide and about Y3 inch thick. With a ruler and a pastry wheel or sharp knife, cut the dough into eighteen 1 2 -inch strips, each Y2 inch wide.

82

To make the lattice topping, center one strip across the middle of the pie. Arrange four strips on each side of it, laying them all parallel and spacing them about Vz inch apart. Turn the pie and, in a similar fashion, arrange 9 more strips at right angles to the 9 strips .

With scissors or a small, sharp knife, trim off the excess dough, leaving a l -inch overhang all around. Fold the overhang under the ends of each strip and crimp the dough to the rim of the pie pan with your fingers or the tines of a fork .

Bake in the middle of the oven for 3 0 to 3 5 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown. Serve at once, directly from the pie pan .

Green-Tomato Pie


1 tablespoon butter, softened, plus 2 tablespoons butter, cut into � -inch bits

Short-crust pastry for a double-crust pie (page 1 33)

8 medium-sized green tomatoes ( about 2 Vz pounds ) , washed, cored and cut crosswise into �-inch-thick sl ices

1 tablespoon salt 1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup soft fresh crumbs made from


Vz teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons cider vinegar

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie tin. Following the directions in the recipe for short-crust pastry on page 1 3 3, roll out half the pastry dough and fit it into the pie tin.

Place the tomatoes in a deep bowl, sprinkle the salt over them, and turn the slices about with a spoon until they are evenly coated . Set aside at room temperature for about 1 5 minutes. Spread the tomatoes on paper towels to drain, and pat them completely dry with fresh towels .

Combine the sugar, flour, bread crumbs and cinnamon in a deep bowl and mix well . Add the tomatoes to the sugar mixture and toss together gently but thoroughly. Then arrange the tomato slices in the lined pie tin, dribble the cider vinegar over them, and dot the top with the 2 tablespoons of butter bits .

Roll out the remaining pastry dough as described in the recipe for shortcrust pastry and lay it over the pie. With scissors or a small knife, trim off the excess dough and crimp the pastry to the rim of the pie tin with the tines of a fork or your fingers . Cut a hole 1 inch in diameter in the center of the top crust .

Bake the pie in the middle of the oven for 4 5 minutes, or until the pastry is delicately browned . Serve the green-tomato pie at once, or cool it to room temperature before serving.

8 3

Spinach Ring with Cheese Sauce

To serve 6

2 teaspoons butter, softened, plus 3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons soft fresh crumbs made from homemade-type white bread, pulverized in a blender or finely shredded with a fork

4 tablespoons flour 2 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon salt \l.i teaspoon ground white pepper Freshly grated nutmeg

\l.i pound sliced bacon V2 cup finely chopped onions 2 pounds fresh spinach, washed,

cooked, drained, squeezed and finely chopped, or 4 ten-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach, thoroughly defrosted and squeezed dry

Freshly ground black pepper 3 egg yolks 3 egg whites \l.i cup freshly grated imported

Parmesan or Gruyere cheese

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . With a pastry brush, coat all the inner surfaces of a 1 -quart ring mold with the 2 teaspoons of softened butter. Add the bread crumbs and tip the pan from side to side to spread them as evenly as you can. Then invert the pan and rap it l ightly on a table to remove any excess crumbs. Set aside.

In a 2- or 3 -quart saucepan melt the 3 tablespoons of butter but do not let it brown. Remove the pan from the heat, and stir in the 4 tablespoons of flour. Then pour in the milk and cream, and stir with a whisk until the flour mixture is partially dissolved . Return the pan to medium heat and cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce comes to a boil and is thick and smooth. Stir in V2 teaspoon of the salt, the white pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Set aside.

In a 1 0- inch skillet, fry the bacon over moderate heat, turning the slices from time to time until they have rendered all their fat and are golden brown and crisp . Transfer them to paper towels to drain, then crumble the bacon into small bits and set them aside. Meanwhile, pour off and discard all but about \l.i cup of the bacon fat from the pan and add the V2 cup of onions . Stirring occasionally, cook over moderate heat for about 5 minutes, until the onions are soft but not brown.

Add the spinach to the skillet and raise the heat to high . Stirring constantly, fry the mixture until all the moisture has evaporated and the spinach begins to stick l ightly to the pan. Watch carefully for any sign of burning and regulate the heat accordingly. With a rubber spatula, scrape the contents of the skillet into a large mixing bowl and mix in the remaining V2 teaspoon of the salt, a pinch of nutmeg, and as much freshly

84

ground black pepper as you like. Then pour in about half of the reserved sauce ( leaving the rest in the pan ) , and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are well combined . Beat in the egg yolks one at a time and stir in the crumbled bacon.

Beat the egg whites with a wire whisk or rotary beater-in an unlined copper bowl, if possible-until they are stiff enough to form unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl . Stir 2 or 3 large spoonfuls of the whites into the spinach mixture to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites . Ladle the mixture into the prepared mold and smooth the top with a rubber spatula . Bake undisturbed in the center of the oven for about 30 minutes , or until the ring has puffed and the top is lightly browned.

While the spinach ring is baking, bring the reserved pan of sauce to a simmer over moderate heat. Then stir in the cheese and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, until the cheese is melted. Taste for seasoning; it will probably need more salt. To keep the sauce warm, cover and set aside off the heat while you unmold the ring.

Place a large plate upside down over the top of the mold, and firmly grasping plate and mold together, invert the two. Rap them sharply on a table and the spinach ring should slide out easily onto the plate. Pour the hot cheese sauce ( reheated, if necessary ) over the ring, masking it as completely as you can . Serve at once.

8 5

Wild Rice with Mushrooms and Almonds

To serve 4 to 6

5 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons finely chopped onions 1 cup wild rice 2 cups chicken stock, fresh or

canned 1 teaspoon salt

!1.1 cup slivered blanched almonds � pound firm fresh mushrooms,

wiped with a dampened towel, trimmed, and cut lengthwise, including the stems, into Ysinch-thick slices

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . In a heavy 2 -quart casserole equipped with a tightly fitting lid, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add 2 tablespoons of the onions and, stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown.

Add the wild rice and stir until the grains glisten with butter. Then pour in the chicken stock and � teaspoon of the salt, and stir until the mixture comes to a boil.

Cover the casserole with a double thickness of aluminum foil and set the lid in place. Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 hour, remove the casserole from the oven, and let the rice rest at room temperature for 1 5 minutes before removing the lid and foil .

Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a heavy 1 0-inch skillet and brown the almonds for a minute or so, stirring constantly so that they color delicately and evenly. With a slotted spoon, transfer the almonds to paper towels to drain.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the skillet and melt over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of onions and stir for about 5 minutes, until they are soft and translucent but not brown.

Add the mushrooms and, stirring frequently, cook for 1 0 to 1 5 minutes, until the moisture they give off has evaporated . Do not let the mushrooms brown. Season with the remaining � teaspoon of salt and a few grindings of pepper and set aside.

To serve, combine the wild rice and mushrooms in a heated bowl and toss them together gently but thoroughly. Scatter the almonds on top and serve at once.

86

Sourdough Starter

Because of their flavor and texture, sourdough bread, rolls and pancakes are well worth the trouble they take to make, but it is not possible to ensure predictable results. The success of sourdough starter, which gives the dough its character, depends on a proper blend of yeast and bacterial fermentation . This in turn depends to a large degree on the flour and the amount and types of bacteria in the air. In many parts of the United States and Canada, it is possible to buy sourdough starter from bakeries.


3 cups all-purpose flour 1 package active dry yeast

2Y2 cups lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 ° to 1 1 5 ° )

Starting a day ahead, place the flour in a large glass mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast and water . With a large spoon, gradually stir the flour into the yeast and water, continuing to stir until the ingredients are well combined . Then, with a whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat vigorously until the mixture is completely smooth. Drape with a kitchen towel and set aside in a warm, draft-free spot ( such as an unlighted oven ) for 24 hours . If at the end of this time the starter has not bubbled, it must be discarded.

After you have used as much of the starter as you need, transfer the remaining starter to a glass j ar or crock equipped with a tight-fitting lid. Covered and refrigerated, it can be stored for several weeks . If used regularly, it may keep indefinitely.

87

Sourdough White Bread

To make 3 small loaves

1 cup sourdough starter (page 87) 6Y2 to 7 cups all-purpose flour 2 cups lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 ° to

1 1 5 ° )

1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons sugar Y2 teaspoon baking soda 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons butter, softened

Starting a day ahead, place the sourdough starter in a large glass or ceramic mixing bowl and add 2 Y2 cups of the flour and the lukewarm water. With a large wooden spoon, mix the starter, flour and water together until well combined, then continue to stir until the dough is smooth. Drape the bowl with a kitchen towel and place in a warm, draftfree spot ( such as an unlighted oven ) overnight.

The following day, remove 1 cup of the mixture and refrigerate it, in a tightly sealed glass j ar or crock, as your new sourdough starter. Or you can add it to any sourdough starter you may have left.

To the dough remaining in the bowl add 4 cups of the flour, the salt, sugar, baking soda and oil. With a large spoon, stir the ingredients together, and continue to stir until the mixture is smooth and the flour is completely absorbed. The dough should be j ust firm enough to be gathered into a ball. If it is too soft, add the remaining Y2 cup of flour, a tablespoon at a time, beating vigorously after each addition and using only enough of the flour to give the dough its proper consistency.

On a heavily floured surface, knead the dough by pushing it down with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward, and folding it back on itself. Continue to knead for about 1 0 minutes , or until the dough is smooth, shiny and elastic. Sprinkle it from time to time with a little flour to prevent it from sticking to the board .

Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly buttered bowl. Drape with a kitchen towel and set in the warm, draft-free place for about 2 Y2 hours, or until it has doubled in volume.

With a pastry brush, spread the bottom and sides of three warmed 9-by-5 -by- 3-inch loaf pans with the softened butter. Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fist and with a large, sharp knife, cut it into three equal parts . Shape each part into a loaf and place the loaves in the loaf pans . Set aside in the warm, draft-free place for about 1 hour, to allow them to double in volume.

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . Bake the loaves in the middle of the oven for about 1 hour, or until they are golden brown on top and shrink slightly from the sides of the pan. Transfer the bread to cake racks to cool and serve at room temperature.

88

Sourdough Rolls

To make 1 2 rolls

1 tablespoon sugar 1 package active dry yeast 1 Y-1 cups lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 °

t o 1 1 5 ° )

1 cup sourdough starter (page 87) 3 � to 4 cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon butter, softened

In a small, shallow bowl, sprinkle the sugar and yeast over Y-1 cup of the lukewarm water. Let the mixture stand for 2 to 3 minutes, then stir once or twice and set the bowl in a warm, draft-free spot ( such as an unl ighted oven ) for about 5 minutes, or until the mixture bubbles and almost doubles in volume.

Place the sourdough starter in a large glass or ceramic mixing bowl and pour in the yeast mixture. Add the remaining cup of lukewarm water and 1 � cups of the flour and stir with a large spoon until all of the ingredients are well combined. Then drape with a kitchen towel and set aside in the warm, draft-free place for about 2 hours, or until the mixture bubbles and doubles in volume.

Stir the mixture briefly with a large spoon. Remove 1 cup and refrigerate it in a tightly sealed glass j ar or crock, to be used as your new sourdough starter. Or add it to any sourdough starter you may have left.

To the mixture remaining in the bowl gradually add 2 to 2� cups of the remaining flour, beating vigorously after each addition and using only enough of the flour to make it firm enough to be gathered into a ball . On a heavily floured surface, knead the dough by pushing it down with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward, and folding it back on itself. Continue the kneading for about 1 0 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elastic. Sprinkle it from time to time with a little flour to prevent it from sticking to the board.

Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly buttered bowl. Drape with a towel and set aside in the warm, draft-free place for about 1 hour, or until the dough doubles in volume.

Preheat the oven to 3 75 ° . With a pastry brush , spread a large baking sheet with the tablespoon of softened butter. Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fist and with a large, sharp knife cut it into 1 2 equal parts. Shape the dough gently into balls and flatten them slightly with your hands. Place the balls about 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheet. Bake in the center of the oven for 20 to 2 5 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp . Serve the rolls at once.

89

Sourdough Pancakes

To make about 1 6 four-inch pancakes

4 cups sourdough starter (page 87) 2 cups lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 ° to

1 1 5 ° ) 2 Y2 cups all-purpose flour 2 eggs 4 tablespoons vegetable oil Y<l cup evaporated milk 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 2 tablespoons sugar

Starting a day ahead, place the sourdough starter in a large glass mixing bowl and pour in the lukewarm water and the flour. Stir together briefly with a large spoon, then beat the mixture vigorously until smooth . Drape with a kitchen towel and set aside in a warm, draft-free place ( such as an unlighted oven ) overnight.

Remove 1 cup of the mixture from the bowl and refrigerate it in a tightly sealed glass j ar or crock, to be used as your new sourdough starter. Or add it to any sourdough starter you may have left .

To the remaining mixture in the mixing bowl add the eggs, 2 tablespoons of the oil, and the evaporated milk. Mix with a large spoon until the batter is smooth, then sift together the salt, baking soda and sugar directly over the batter . Mix only long enough to blend, then set aside for 1 5 minutes .

Heat a griddle or heavy 1 2 -inch skillet over moderate heat until a drop of water flicked onto it evaporates instantly. Grease the skillet or griddle very lightly with a pastry brush dipped in the remaining oil ( continue to grease when necessary as you make each batch of pancakes ) . Pour the batter from a pitcher or small ladle onto the hot pan to form pancakes about 4 inches in diameter. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes, until small scattered bubbles have formed-but have not broken--on the surface. Immediately turn with a spatula and cook for a minute, until the other side of the pancake is golden brown. Stack on a heated plate and serve with melted butter and maple syrup .

NOTE : If you wish, you may scatter 1 tablespoon of drained blueberries, grated apple or crumbled fried bacon on top of each pancake just before turning it over.

90

Oatmeal Pancakes

To make about eighteen 3 ;..2 - inch pancakes

1 ;..2 cups uncooked rolled oats 2 cups milk 1 cup flour 2 tablespoons dark-brown sugar 2 teaspoons double-acting baking

powder 1 teapoon salt 3 eggs, lightly beaten 4 tablespoons butter, melted and

cooled � cup vegetable oil

Place the oats in a deep bowl, pour in the milk, stir well, and set aside until all the milk has been absorbed . Meanwhile, combine the flour, brown sugar, baking powder and salt, and sift them together onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper.

Add the eggs to the oats mixture and mix with a large spoon. Then sprinkle the flour mixture over the top and stir it in. Add the melted butter and stir only long enough to blend the batter . Do not over mix.

With a pastry brush dipped in the vegetable oil, grease a griddle or heavy skillet lightly and heat it until a drop of water flicked onto it splutters and evaporates instantly. Pour the batter from a pitcher or small ladle into the hot pan to form pancakes about 3 ;..2 inches in diameter. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes over moderate heat, until small, scattered bubbles have formed and begun to break on the surface of the cakes. Immediately turn them with a spatula and cook for a minute, until the other side of the pancake is brown. Stack on a heated plate or platter and repeat the whole procedure, stirring the batter gently and oiling the pan for each batch of pancakes until they are all cooked . Serve the pancakes hot, accompanied by butter and maple or fruit syrup.

9 1

Potato Rolls

To make 2 dozen rolls

1 medium-sized baking potato (about Y2 pound ) , peeled and quartered

� cup lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 ° to 1 1 5 ° )

1 package active dry yeast Ys teaspoon plus 3 tablespoons

sugar

3 to 5 cups flour 2 teaspoons salt 1 cup lukewarm milk ( 1 1 0 ° to

1 1 5 ° ) 3 eggs 8 tablespoons butter, cut into

Y2-inch bits, plus 3 tablespoons butter, softened

2 tablespoons poppy seeds

Drop the potato quarters into enough boiling water to cover them by at least 1 inch and boil briskly until they are soft and show no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife . Drain off the water, return the pan to low heat, and slide it back and forth for a minute or so to dry the potato pieces completely. Mash them to a smooth puree with the back of a table fork. Set aside.

Pour the lukewarm water into a small bowl and sprinkle the yeast and Ys teaspoon of sugar over it. Let the mixture stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then mix well . Set the bowl in a warm, draft-free place ( such as an unlighted oven ) for 1 0 minutes, until the mixture almost doubles in bulk.

Place 3 cups of flour, the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar and the salt in a deep bowl, and make a well in the center . Pour in the yeast mixture and the milk and, with a large spoon, gradually incorporate the liquid ingredients into the dry ones . Beat in the mashed potato and 2 of the eggs. When the dough is smooth, beat in the butter bits , and continue to beat until the butter is absorbed.

Gather the dough into a ball , place it on a l ightly floured surface, and knead by pushing the dough down with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward, and folding it back on itself. Repeat for about 1 0 minutes, adding up to 2 cups more flour by the tablespoonful as you knead and using only enough flour to make a smooth and elastic dough.

With a pastry brush , spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter over the bottom and sides of a large bowl . Gather the dough into a ball, and turn it about in the bowl until it is evenly coated with butter on all sides. Drape loosely with a kitchen towel and set aside in the warm, draft-free place for about 1 hour, or until the dough doubles in volume.

Spread the remaining 2 tablespoons of softened butter around the insides of two 1 2 -cup muffin tins. Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fist. For each potato roll, break off a small piece of dough

92

and shape it into a ball about 1 inch in diameter. Place the balls of dough in the buttered pans ; each muffin cup should be about two thirds full . Set the rolls aside in the draft-free place to rise for about 30 minutes, or until they completely fill the muffin cups.

Preheat the oven to 45 0 ° . Beat the remaining egg l ightly with a wire whisk or fork and brush it evenly over the rolls. Sprinkle the tops with poppy seeds. Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes , or until the rolls are a deep golden brown. Transfer the rolls to a wire rack and let them cool for a few minutes before serving them.

Spaetzle TINY D U M P L INGS WITH FRIED CROUTONS

To serve 4 to 6

3 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt l/.1 teaspoon ground nutmeg,

preferably freshly grated 4 eggs, l ightly beaten 1 cup milk

2 quarts water 2 tablespoons butter 1 cup l/.1- inch cubes white bread,

preferably cut from day-old French or Italian bread

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

To make the dumplings, combine the flour, Y2 teaspoon of the salt and the nutmeg in a large mixing bowl . Make a well in the center and drop in the eggs and milk. With a large spoon, stir the flour into the liquid ingredients and continue to stir until the dough is smooth.

Bring 2 quarts of water and the remaining Y2 teaspoon of salt to a boil in a heavy 4- to 5 -quart saucepan. Set a colander, preferably one with large openings, over the saucepan and, with a spoon, press the dough a few tablespoons at a time through the colander into the boiling water. Stir the dumplings gently to prevent them from sticking to each other, then boil briskly 5 to 8 minutes, or until they are tender. Drain through a sieve or colander and transfer to a large heated serving bowl . Cover the bowl with foil to keep the dumplings hot while you prepare the croutons.

Melt the butter in a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet and add the bread cubes . Turn the cubes about in the butter for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown on all sides, then add them to the bowl of dumplings . Toss the croutons and dumplings together lightly with a spoon, sprinkle with parsley, and serve at once.

93

Cheese Bread

To make one 8 -inch round loaf

� cup lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 ° to 1 1 5 ° )

1 package active dry yeast 1 tablespoon sugar 2 V:! to 3Y2 cups flour 1 tablespoon salt 1 cup lukewarm milk ( 1 1 0 ° to

1 1 5 ° )

3 tablespoons butter, cut into V:!-inch bits and softened, plus 2 tablespoons butter, softened

')1,1 cup freshly grated sharp Cheddar cheese

1 egg yolk 2 tablespoons heavy cream

Pour the lukewarm water into a small shallow bowl and sprinkle the yeast and sugar on top . Let the mixture stand for 2 or 3 minutes , then mix well . Set the bowl in a warm, draft-free place ( such as an unlighted oven ) for about 1 0 minutes, until the mixture almost doubles in bulk.

Combine 2 Y2 cups of flour and the salt in a deep bowl and make a well in the center. Pour the yeast mixture and milk into the well and, with a large wooden spoon, gradually incorporate the dry ingredients into the liquid ones . Beat until the dough is smooth, then stir in the 3 tablespoons of butter bits .

Gather the dough into a ball and place it on a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough by pushing it down with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward, and folding it back on itself. Repeat for about 1 0 minutes, meanwhile sprinkling in up to 1 cup more flour, adding it by the tablespoonful and using only enough to make a smooth, elastic dough .

With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter inside a deep bowl . Place the dough in the bowl and grease it on all sides by turning it about in the bowl. Drape loosely with a kitchen towel and set aside in the warm, draft-free place for about 45 minutes, or until the dough doubles in volume.

Brush the remaining tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of an 8- inch cake pan . Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fist, add the grated cheese and knead it in thoroughly. On a l ightly floured surface, pat and shape the dough into a round loaf 7 or 8 inches in diameter . Place the loaf in the buttered pan and set it aside in the warm, draft-free spot for about 45 minutes longer, or until the dough has doubled in volume.

Preheat the oven to 400 ° . With a wire whisk, beat the egg yolk and cream together until well blended. Brush the egg-and-cream mixture over

94

the loaf and bake in the middle of the oven for 2 0 minutes . Reduce the oven temperature to 3 5 0 ° and continue baking for another 1 5 to 20 minutes, or until the cheese bread is golden brown and sounds hollow when turned out and tapped sharply on the bottom with a finger . Let the bread cool on a wire rack and serve it at room temperature.

Lefse FLAT POTATO B READS

To make about 1 5

3 large baking potatoes, peeled and quartered

2 tablespoons butter, softened and cut into Y2 -inch bits

!1.1 cup heavy cream Y2 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup flour

Drop the potatoes into enough boiling water to cover them completely and boil briskly, uncovered, until they are soft and can be easily p ierced with the point of a sharp knife. Drain thoroughly and force them through a ricer or mash them in a bowl with a fork. ( You should have about 2

cups of potatoes . ) Add the butter, cream, sugar and salt and beat until the mixture is smooth . Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours.

Gather the potato mixture into a ball, place it on a heavily floured surface, and sprinkle with about Y2 cup of the flour. Knead the mixture -by pressing it down with the heels of your hands, pushing it forward, and folding it back on itself-for about 1 0 minutes . Incorporate the remaining flour gradually as you proceed. Divide the dough into 1 5 small balls . With a grooved Swedish lefse pin or a plain rolling pin, roll one of the balls into a paper-thin round about 6 inches in diameter. Heat a large griddle or skillet until very hot, drape one round of dough on the rolling pin, and unroll it onto the hot surface . Cook only a moment or two, until bubbles appear on the surface of the dough and the bottom of the lefse browns lightly. With a metal spatula, turn it over and brown the other side. Transfer to a large plate and cover with a damp towel while you proceed to roll out and cook the remaining rounds of dough.

To serve, butter the lefse, roll loosely, and cut it into diagonal slices . Or sprinkle the buttered lefse with sugar and top with honey or j am.

95

Cream Biscuits

To make about eight 2 Y2-inch biscuits

1 teaspoon butter, softened 1 Y2 cups flour 2 teaspoons double-acting baking

powder Y2 teaspoon salt 1 cup heavy cream, chilled

Preheat the oven to 4 2 5 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the softened butter evenly on a large baking sheet. Combine the flour, baking powder and salt, and sift them together onto a plate or a strip of wax paper.

In a chilled bowl, beat the cream with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater until stiff enough to stand in soft peaks on the beater when it is l ifted from the bowl . Sprinkle the flour mixture over the cream about Y2 cup at a time and fold them together gently but thoroughly with a rubber spatula. Do not overfold.

Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and pat it into a rough rectangle about Y2 inch thick. Then, with a cookie cutter or the rim of a glass, cut the dough i nto 2 Y2 -inch rounds . Gather the scraps gently into a ball, pat it flat, and cut as many more rounds as you can .

Arrange the biscuits about 1 inch apart on the buttered sheet and bake in the middle of the oven for 1 2 to 1 5 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Serve at once.

Fried Cornmeal Squares

To make s

2 tablespoons butter, softened, plus 6 tablespoons butter, cut into bits

1 cup water 1 teaspoon salt 1 Y2 cups yellow cornmeal

With a pastry brush, spread the softened butter evenly over the bottom and sides of a shallow baking dish 8 inches long and 5 inches wide.

In a heavy 2-quart saucepan, bring the water and salt to a boil. Stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, pour in the cornmeal in a slow, thin stream so that the water continues to boil as the cornmeal is absorbed . Then reduce the heat to low and, stirring frequently, cook the cornmeal for 2 or 3 minutes, until it is very thick and smooth .

Immediately remove the pan from the heat. With a rubber spatula, spread the hot cornmeal into the buttered dish to a thickness of Y2 inch .

Cover with wax paper and refrigerate for at least 3 0 minutes, or until the cornmeal is .firm to the touch.

With a small, sharp knife or pastry wheel, divide the cornmeal into 2- inch s quares and lift them out of the dish with a small metal spatula .

In a heavy 1 0- to 1 2 -inch skillet, melt the 6 tablespoons of butter bits over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the cornmeal squares and fry them for about 2 minutes on each side, turning them over with a metal spatula and regulating the heat so that they color richly and evenly without burning. Transfer the fried squares to paper towels to drain for a few seconds, then serve at once.

Cheddar Pennies

To make about 4 dozen

5 tablespoons butter, softened 1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese

Y4 teaspoon salt Ground hot red pepper ( cayenne ) Y2 to % cup flour

In a deep bowl, cream 4 tablespoons of the softened butter by beating and mashing it against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until it is light and fluffy. Stir in the cheese, salt and a pinch of red pepper and, when the mixture is smooth, beat in Y2 cup of the flour. The dough should be .firm enough to be gathered into a compact ball . If necessary, add up to Y4 cup more flour by the tablespoonful .

Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and, with your hands, shape and roll it into a cylinder about 1 Y4 inches in diameter . Wrap in wax paper and refrigerate the dough for 1 hour, or until it is .firm.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the remaining tablespoon of softened butter evenly over a large baking sheet. Slice the dough into ¥3 -inch-thick rounds with a sharp knife and arrange the rounds about 1 inch apart on the buttered sheet.

Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 2 to 1 5 minutes, or until the Cheddar pennies are .firm to the touch and a delicate golden color. With a metal spatula, transfer them to a wire rack to cool to room temperature. In a tightly covered j ar or tin, the Cheddar pennies can safely be kept for a week or so.

97

Blueberry Coffee Ring

To make 2 rings ( serving 10 to 1 2 )

YEAST DOUGH

Y4 cup lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 ° to 1 1 5 ° )

1 package active dry yeast 1 teaspoon plus 3 tablespoons sugar 3 to 4 cups flour Y2 teaspoon salt

Y4 cup vegetable oil Y4 cup lukewarm milk ( 1 1 0 ° to

1 1 5 ° ) 2 eggs 8 tablespoons butter, cut into

V2 -inch bits and softened, plus 3 tablespoons butter, softened

Pour the lukewarm water into a small shallow bowl and sprinkle the yeast and 1 teaspoon of the sugar on top . Let the mixture stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then mix well . Set the bowl in a warm, draft-free place ( such as an unlighted oven ) for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture almost doubles in volume.

Combine 3 cups of the flour, the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar and the salt in a deep bowl, and make a well in the center . Pour in the yeast mixture, vegetable oil, milk and eggs and, with a large spoon, gradually incorporate the dry ingredients into the l iquid ones. Beat until smooth, then beat in the 8 tablespoons of butter bits .

Gather the dough into a ball and place it on a l ightly floured surface . Knead it by pushing it down with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward, and folding it back on itself. Repeat for about 1 0 minutes , meanwhile sprinkling in up to 1 cup more flour, adding it by the tablespoonful and using only enough to make a smooth, elastic dough.

With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter inside a deep bowl . Place the dough in the bowl and turn it about to grease all sides evenly. Drape loosely with a kitchen towel and set aside in the warm, draft-free place for about 45 minutes, or until the dough doubles in bulk. Meanwhile brush the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter evenly over two large baking sheets and set aside.

B L U E BERRY F I L LING

2 cups firm ripe fresh blueberries Y3 cup sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon

juice

While the dough is rising, prepare the blueberry filling in the following fashion : Combine the blueberries, Y3 cup sugar, cornstarch and lemon j uice in a 2- to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves . Still stirring from time to time, simmer uncovered over low heat for about 10 min-

98

utes longer, or until the mixture is thick enough to coat a spoon heavily. Remove the pan from the heat and let the blueberry filling cool.

Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fist and d ivide it in half. On a lightly floured surface, roll out one half of the dough into a rectangle about 1 6 inches long and 1 0 inches wide. Spread the top to within 2 inches of the edges with half of the blueberry filling and, starting at one of the 1 6-inch sides, roll the dough j elly-roll fashion into a cylinder. Crimp the ends of the cylinder tightly together with your fingers to seal them. Then place the cylinder on a buttered baking sheet and fold the ends together to make a horseshoe or ring. Roll, fill and shape the second half of the dough in the same manner, then set them both aside in a warm, draft-free place for about 45 minutes, or until they double in bulk.

L E MON TOPPING

\.i cup sugar 2 tablespoons milk

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh lemon peel

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . In a small bowl, stir the 1-i cup of sugar, the 2 tablespoons of milk and the lemon peel to a smooth paste. With a pastry brush, spread the lemon mixture over the top of the two . coffee rings, dividing it equally between them. Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes, or until the rings are golden brown. Serve hot, or cool to room temperature before serving.

Shrove Tuesday Buns

To make 1 2 buns

Y2 cup lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 ° to 1 1 5 ° )

1 package active dry yeast 2 Y2 to 3 Y2 cups flour \.i cup sugar Ys teaspoon salt Y2 cup heavy cream, heated to

lukewarm ( 1 1 0 ° to 1 1 5 ° ) , plus Y2 cup heavy cream, chilled

8 tablespoons butter, cut into Y2 -inch bits and softened, plus 2 tablespoons butter, softened

1 egg beaten with 2 tablespoons milk

Y2 cup blanched almonds 1 egg white 1 cup confectioners' sugar Ys teaspoon almond extract

Pour the lukewarm water into a small shallow bowl and sprinkle the yeast on top . Let the mixture stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then mix well . Set the bowl in a warm, draft-free place ( such as an unlighted oven ) for 5 minutes, or until the mixture bubbles and almost doubles in volume.

Combine 2 Y2 cups of the flour with the sugar and salt, sift them into a deep bowl, and make a well in the center. Pour in the yeast mixture and

Continued on next page 99

the lukewarm cream and, with a large spoon, gradually incorporate the dry ingredients into the liquid ones . Beat until smooth, then add the 8 tablespoons of butter bits and continue to beat until the batter is absorbed.

Gather the dough into a ball and place it on a lightly floured surface. Knead it by pushing it down with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward, and folding it back on itself. Repeat for about 1 0 minutes, meanwhile sprinkling in up to 1 cup more flour, adding it by the tablespoonful and using only enough to make a smooth , elastic dough.

With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter over the entire inside surface of a deep bowl. Place the dough in the bowl and turn it about to grease all sides evenly. Drape loosely with a kitchen towel and set aside in the warm, draft-free place for 1 to 1 Y2 hours, or until the dough doubles in bulk.

Brush the remaining tablespoon of softened butter evenly on a large baking sheet. Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fist and divide it into 1 2 equal parts . On a lightly floured surface, pat and shape the dough into a dozen balls and arrange them 2 inches apart on the buttered baking sheet. Set the balls aside in the warm, draft-free place for 20 to 3 0 minutes , or until they double in volume.

Preheat the oven to 42 5 ° . Brush the top of the balls with the egg-andmilk mixture and bake them in the middle of the oven for 1 5 minutes , or until they are golden brown. Turn the buns out on wire racks, separate, and let them cool to room temperature .

Meanwhile, reduce the oven temperature to 3 5 0 ° . Spread the almonds in a baking dish and, stirring occasionally, toast them for 8 to 1 0 minutes, or until they are del icately browned. Pulverize the almonds in an electric blender or with a nut grinder.

Drop the egg white into a bowl and sift 'M cup of the confectioners' sugar over it. Mix well , then add the pulverized almonds and the almond extract and stir to a smooth paste . Set aside.

In a chilled bowl, whip the remaining Y2 cup of heavy cream with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater until the cream is stiff enough to stand in unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl . Cover with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

Just before serving, cut a l -inch slice off the top of each bun. Spread each bun with 1 tablespoon of the almond paste and spoon about 1 tablespoon of cream over the paste, then set the slice in place like a l id. Sprinkle the buns lightly with the remaining confectioners' sugar and serve at once.

100

Apple Muffins

To make 1 2 muffins

10 tablespoons butter, melted, plus 4 tablespoons butter, softened

2 cups cake flour, not the self-rising variety

1 tablespoon double-acting baking powder

Y2 teaspoon ground nutmeg, preferably freshly grated

Y2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Y<t teaspoon salt Y2 cup sugar 1 egg 1 cup milk 4 medium-sized tart cooking apples,

peeled, cored and finely chopped (about 2 cups)

Y2 cup finely chopped walnuts Y2 cup sugar combined with 2

teaspoons ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 4 2 5 ° . With a pastry brush, spread 2 tablespoons of the melted butter evenly inside the cups of a medium-sized 1 2-cup muffin tin. Combine the cake flour, baking powder, nutmeg, cinnamon and salt, and sift them onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper. Set aside.

In a deep bowl, cream the 4 tablespoons of softened butter and the sugar together, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until the mixture is light and fluffy. Add the egg and mix well . Then beat in about Y2 cup of the flour mixture and, when it is thoroughly incorporated, add Y<t cup of the milk. Repeat three more times, alternating Y2 cup of flour with Y<t cup of milk and beating well after each addition. Add the apples and walnuts, and fold them together gently but thoroughly.

Ladle the batter into the buttered muffin tin, filling each cup about half full . Bake in the middle of the oven for about 30 minutes, or until a toothpick or cake tester inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean .

Turn the muffins out onto a heated platter and, with a pastry brush, spread the remaining 8 tablespoons of melted butter over the tops . Sprinkle the muffins with the sugar-and-cinnamon mixture and serve at once.

1 0 1

Swedish Cherry Twist

To make one 1 6-inch twist

DOUGH

Y-1 cup lukewarm water ( 1 1 0 ° to 1 1 5 ° )

1 package active dry yeast 1 teaspoon plus Y3 cup sugar % cup lukewarm milk ( 1 1 0 ° to

1 1 5 ° )

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 teapoon salt 1 egg, lightly beaten 3 to 3 Y2 cups flour

DOUGH : Pour the water into a small bowl and sprinkle the yeast and 1 teaspoon of the sugar over it. Let stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then stir well . Set in a warm, draft-free place ( such as an unlighted oven ) for about 1 0 minutes, or until the yeast bubbles up and the mixture almost doubles in volume. Meanwhile, combine the milk and 4 tablespoons of the butter and, stirring occasionally, cook over moderate heat until the butter has melted and bubbles begin to form around the edges of the pan. Then pour the mixture into a deep bowl and set aside to cool to lukewarm.

Add the yeast mixture, the salt, the remaining Y3 cup of sugar and the l ightly beaten egg and, with a wooden spoon, stir until all the ingredients are well blended. Then add 3 cups of the flour, 1 cup at a time, and continue to stir until the dough can be gathered into a medium-soft ball.

Place the ball on a l ightly floured surface and knead, pushing the dough down with the heels of your hands, pressing it forward and folding it back on itself. As you knead, incorporate as much of the remaining Y2 cup of flour as is required to make a smooth, fairly dry dough. When the dough is shiny and elastic, reshape it into a ball . With a pastry brush, coat the inside of another large bowl with 1 tablespoon of the softened butter. Drop in the dough and turn it about to coat the entire ball with butter. Then drape the bowl with a towel and put it into the draft-free place for about 45 minutes, or until the dough doubles in volume. Meanwhile, brush a baking sheet with the remaining tablespoon of butter .

Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fist and place it on a lightly floured surface.

102

TOPPING

1 egg yolk, lightly beaten and combined with 1 teaspoon milk

Y-1 cup blanched almonds, coarsely chopped

Y-1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 4 candied cherries, halved

SHAPING AND TOPPING : Cut the dough in half and with your hands shape each half into a cylinder about 1 8 inches long and 1 Y2 inches wide. Place the cylinders side by side on the baking sheet and pinch the tops together so that the cylinders form a narrow "V." Following the diagram above, shape the dough into a twist about 1 4 inches long. Set the twist aside to rise for 4 5 minutes, or until it doubles in bulk.

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . With a pastry brush, coat the twist with the combined egg yolk and milk, then mix the almonds, sugar and cinnamon, and sprinkle them over the top . Set the candied cherry halves in two rows along the length of the twist. Bake in the center of the oven for about 2 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Turn the cherry twist out on a wire rack to cool. Serve it warm or at room temperature.

Cinnamon Wreath

To make one 1 2-inch wreath

1 recipe Swedish cherry twist dough (opposite)

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

Y3 cup plus 3 tablespoons.sugar 2 teaspoons cinnamon Y-1 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with 1

tablespoon water

Grease a baking sheet with 1 tablespoon of the butter . Prepare the dough for the Swedish cherry twist and roll it into a rectangle about 1 5 inches long and 1 0 inches wide, sprinkling a little flour over and under it as you roll to prevent the dough from sticking to the board.

Continued on next page 1 0 3

In a small bowl, mix together V3 cup of the sugar, the cinnamon and � teaspoon of the cardamom. With a pastry brush, spread the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter over the dough, then sprinkle with the sugarand-spice mixture.

Starting at the longer edge of the rectangle, roll the dough j elly-roll fashion into a compact cylinder and place it, seam side down, on the greased baking sheet. Shape the dough into a ring and pinch the edges together . With a sharp knife or pair of scissors, cut through the dough at approximately 2 -inch intervals, starting from the outside edge and cutting two thirds of the way through. Separate the sections of dough, turning each one half turn to the right, exposing the center and overlapping them slightly (diagram below) . Drape a kitchen towel over the wreath and set it aside to rise again for about 1 hour, or until it doubles in volume.

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . With a pastry brush, coat the wreath with the combined egg yolk and water, then quickly mix together the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar and � teaspoon of cardamom, and sprinkle the mixture over the top . Bake in the center of the oven for about 2 5 minutes, until it is golden brown. Traditionally, this cinnamon wreath is served for breakfast, accompanied by butter . Should you have any of the wreath left over, it makes excellent toast.

(i)� ___ )

1 04

Black Walnut Angel Bread

To make one 9-by- 5- inch loaf

9 tablespoons butter, softened 2 tablespoons plus 2 cups flour 1 Y<l cups confectioners' sugar Y2 cup milk 5 egg whites 1 cup shelled black walnuts,

pulverized in a blender or with a nut grinder or mortar and pestle, plus Y<l cup shelled black walnuts, finely chopped

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9-by-5 -by- 3 - inch loaf pan. Sprinkle the butter with 2 tablespoons of the flour, tipping the pan from side to side to distribute it evenly. Turn the pan over and rap it sharply on a table to remove the excess flour. Set the pan aside.

In a deep bowl, cream the remaining 8 tablespoons of butter and the sugar together, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until the mixture is l ight and fluffy. Beat in Y2 cup of flour and, when it is thoroughly incorporated, add 2 tablespoons of the milk. Repeat, three more times, alternating Y2 cup flour with 2 tablespoons of milk, and continue beating until the batter is smooth .

With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the egg whites in another bowl-preferably one of unlined copper-until they are stiff enough to stand in firm, unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted up out of the bowl .

Stir 2 or 3 large spoonfuls of egg white into the batter to lighten it. Then scoop the remaining egg whites over the batter and, with a rubber spatula, fold them together gently but thoroughly. Fold in the pulverized walnuts and pour the batter into the buttered-and-floured pan. Smooth the top with the spatula and sprinkle it with the chopped nuts .

Bake in the middle of the oven for 5 0 to 60 minutes, or until a toothpick or cake tester inserted into the center of the bread comes out clean. Let the bread cool in the pan for about 5 minutes, then turn it out onto a wire cake rack to cool completely.

1 0 5

JIGI�II I 111111911 How to Prepare and Seal Canning jars

To ensure consistent results in home canning, use standard canning j ars or j elly glasses with matching lids. Examine each carefully, discarding those with covers that do not fit securely or those with edges that have cracks or chips. An airtight seal is imperative.

·

Wash the j ars, glasses, lids and rings in hot, soapy water and rinse them with scalding water. Place them in a large, deep pot and pour in enough hot water to cover them completely. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn off the heat and let the pot stand while you finish cooking the food that you plan to can. The jars or glasses must be hot when the food is placed in them.

To be ready to seal the glasses, grate a 4-ounce bar of paraffin into the top of a double boiler ( preferably one with a pouring spout ) , and melt it over hot water. Do not let the paraffin get so hot that it begins to smoke; at that temperature it will catch fire easily.

When the food is ready to be canned, lift the j ars or glasses from the pot with tongs and stand them upright on a level surface. Leave the rings and lids in the pot until you are ready to use them. Fill and seal the j ars one at a time, filling each j ar to within Y8 inch of the top and each glass to within � inch of the top . Each j ar should be sealed quickly and tightly with its ring and lid. The j elly glasses should also be sealed at once. Pour a thin layer of the hot paraffin over the surface of the j elly, making sure that it covers the j elly completely and touches all sides of the glass. If air bubbles appear on the paraffin, prick them immediately with the tip of a knife. Let the glasses rest until the paraffin cools and hardens ; then cover them with metal lids.

To further ensure against spoilage in the particular case of pickles and relishes, finish the canning process with a hot-water bath. Place the filled and sealed jars side by side on a rack in a canner or other deep pot. Pour in enough hot ( not boiling ) water to cover the j ars by 1 inch, tightly cover the pot, and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Boil j ars of pickles for 1 0 m inutes and relishes for 5 . With tongs, remove the j ars and let cool at room temperature. Store upright in a cool, dark, dry place .

NOTE : If there is not enough food to fill the last j ar or glass completely, do not attempt to seal it. Refrigerate and use it as soon as possible.

106

Carrot Pickles

To make 2 quarts

1 6 medium-sized carrots, scraped and thinly sliced ( 4 cups )

1 medium-sized onion, peeled and thinly sliced ( � cup )

% cup sugar � teaspoon salt

� teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 cups white distilled vinegar 1 tablespoon scraped, thinly slivered

fresh ginger root Y4 teaspoon whole cloves Y4 teaspoon celery seed

Toss together the sliced carrots and onion in a large mixing bowl and pack them tightly into hot sterilized jars.

In a 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel casserole, combine the sugar, salt, cinnamon, oil, vinegar, ginger root, cloves and celery seed. Bring to a boil over moderately high heat, then lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 2 to 3 minutes , stirring until the sugar dissolves .

Ladle the s immering liquid over the vegetables a l ittle at a time, allowing it to flow through to the bottom of the j ar before adding more. Fill each of the j ars to within Ys inch of the top and follow the directions for canning and sealing opposite .

Pickled Prunes

To make about 1 quart

2� cups water 1 cup distilled white vinegar 2 cups dark-brown sugar, firmly

packed

2 sticks cinnamon 3,/,i tablespoon whole cloves 1 teaspoon whole allspice 1 pound dried unpitted prunes

In a 1 �- to 2 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine the water, vinegar, sugar, cinnamon, cloves and allsp ice. Bring to a boil over high heat, then stir in the prunes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 1 5 minutes . Pour into hot sterilized j ars, following the instructions for canning and seal ing opposite.

1 0 7

Corn Relish

To make 3 quarts

1 pound white cabbage, cored and finely chopped

8 cups fresh corn kernels, cut from about 1 2 large ears of corn

% cup finely chopped onions

1 cup finely chopped green bell peppers

1 cup finely chopped red bell peppers 1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon salt 4 teaspoons celery seed 2Y2 cups cider vinegar

In a 6- to 8-quart enameled or stainless-steel casserole, combine the cabbage, corn, onions, peppers, sugar, salt and celery seed. Pour in the vinegar and, with a wooden spoon, stir the ingredients together. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring the mixture frequently, then reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes . Taste for seasoning, then immediately ladle the relish into hot ster il ized j ars, following the directions for canning and sealing on page 1 06 .

Tomato Marmalade

To make 3 cups

3 pounds ( about 9 medium-sized) ripe tomatoes

2 Y2 cups sugar J,4 cup strained fresh lemon juice 1 cup lemon peel ( from about 8

lemons ) , cut with a small knife or rotary peeler, discarding any bitter white pith, then cut into strips about 1 inch long and Ys inch wide

Y2 cup crystallized ginger, finely chopped

Drop the tomatoes into a pan of boiling water and let them boil briskly for about 1 0 seconds . Drain, run cold water over them and, with a small, sharp knife, peel off the skins. Cut out and discard the stems, then chop the tomatoes coarsely. There should be about 5 cups.

In a large glass, ceramic or stainless-steel bowl, combine the tomatoes and sugar, and toss with a wooden spoon to distribute the sugar evenly. Let the mixture rest uncovered at room temperature for about 1 hour.

In a 2 - to 3 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine the tomato mixture, lemon j uice, lemon peel and crystallized ginger, and bring to a boil over h igh heat, stirring constantly. Then lower the heat and simmer the mixture for 1 hour, or until it is thick enough to hold its shape almost solidly in a spoon. Stir frequently while the marmalade thickens to prevent it from sticking to the pan.

With a slotted spoon, skim off and discard any foam that may appear on the surface of the marmalade and ladle the marmalade into hot sterilized j ars or j elly glasses, following the directions for canning and sealing on page 1 06 .

1 08

Pickled Onions

To make 2 quarts

5 pounds small white onions, each about 1 inch in diameter

1 cup salt

14 cup mixed pickling spice 1 quart cider vinegar 1 Y2 cups sugar Alum

Drop the onions into a 3- to 4-quart saucepan filled with boiling water, bring back to a boil, and cook uncovered for 2 to 3 minutes . Pour off the water and with a small, sharp knife peel the onions .

Place the hot onions in a large mixing bowl, sprinkle with the salt, and add enough ice water to cover them by about an inch . Soak undisturbed for 30 minutes , then drain and discard the soaking liquid. Place the onions in hot sterilized j ars, sprinkling each layer of onions with the pickling spice as you proceed .

In a 2- to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, bring the vinegar and sugar to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly until the sugar dissolves . Ladle the mixture over the onions a few tablespoons at a time, letting it flow through to the bottom before adding more. Add a l -by- Y2 -inch piece o f alum to each j ar, and seal following the directions o n page 1 06. Store for at least 2 weeks before serving.

Raspberry Vinegar

To make 2 quarts

3 pounds fresh raspberries 6 cups malt vinegar 6 cups sugar

Starting three days ahead, place the raspberries in a sieve anc! wash them quickly under cold running water. Drain thoroughly and transfer them to a glass or ceramic bowl . Pour in the malt vinegar and stir with a wooden spoon until the berries are thoroughly mixed . Cover with plastic wrap or aluminum foil and steep undisturbed in a cool place-but not in the refrigerator-for three days .

Pour the contents of the bowl into a sieve lined with a double thickness of cheesecloth and let the liquid drain through. With the back of a wooden spoon, press down hard on the berries to extract as much of their j uice as possible before discarding them. Pour the drained liquid into a 3 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, stir in the sugar, and bring to a boil, stirring constantly until the sugar has dissolved. Let the vinegar boil vigorously for 3 minutes, then slowly pour through a funnel set into the mouth of pint- or quart-sized bottles and cool to room temperature before corking tightly.

Continued on next page 1 09

Or, if you are not planning to use the raspberry vinegar within the following month, ladle the hot vinegar into hot sterilized j ars and seal them at once, following the directions for canning and sealing given on page 1 06.

Traditionally raspberry vinegar is used in place of other vinegars as a dressing for fruit salad . It is also used to make a refreshing summer drink by combining the vinegar and cold water ( in the proportion of Y3

cup raspberry vinegar to ¥3 cup water ) , then pouring this mixture into tall ice-filled glasses .

Spiced Plums

To serve 6 to 8

2 pounds medium-sized firm ripe red plums (about 1 2 )

3 cups dry white wine

2 cups water 1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon juice Y2 teaspoon ground mace 6 whole cloves

Wash the plums under cold running water, drain well, and prick each fruit deeply in three or four places with the point of a small, thin skewer. Place the plums in a heatproof glass or ceramic bowl .

Combine the wine, water, lemon j uice, mace and cloves in a small enameled or stainless-steel pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Pour the hot liquid over the fruit, turn the plums about with a spoon and let them soak at room temperature for an hour. Drain the liquid back into the pan and repeat the boiling and soaking procedure two more times.

Transfer the plums to a serving dish with a slotted spoon, moisten them with a few spoonfuls of the spiced liquid and serve at once, as an accompaniment to roast meats and game. Or cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate the plums in the spiced liquid until ready to serve.

Cranberry Ketchup

To make 1 pint

1 pound fresh cranberries Y2 cup finely chopped onions Y2 cup water Y2 cup white distilled vinegar 1 cup sugar % teaspoon ground cloves

% teaspoon ground cinnamon % teaspoon ground allspice % teaspoon salt % teaspoon celery seed Y2 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper

Wash the cranberries under cold running water. Combine them with the chopped onion and the water in a 2- to 3 -quart enameled or stainlesssteel saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low,

1 1 0

cover the pan tightly, and simmer for 1 0 to 1 2 minutes , or until the mixture can be easily mashed against the side of the pan with a spoon.

Puree the cranberry mixture-with its cooking liquid-through the fine blade of a food mill or rub it through a fine sieve with the back of a spoon, pressing down hard on the berries before discarding the skins .

Pour the puree back into the saucepan and stir in the vinegar, sugar, cloves, cinnamon, allspice, salt, celery seed and pepper . Bring to a boil over high heat and cook uncovered for 1 5 minutes, or until most of the liquid in the pan has evaporated and the ketchup is thick enough to hold its shape almost solidly in a spoon. Stir from time to time to prevent the ketchup from sticking to the pan . With a slotted spoon, skim off and discard any foam that may appear on the surface of the ketchup and taste for seasoning. Ladle the hot ketchup into hot sterilized j ars, following the directions for canning and sealing on page 1 06 .

Traditionally, cranberry ketchup is served as an accompaniment to wild game, other meats or poultry.

Plum Ketchup

To make 3 cups

3 pounds firm ripe tart plums 1 Y2 pounds ( 3 % cups ) sugar 1 cup cider vinegar 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

Y2 teaspoon ground mace % teaspoon ground cloves Ys teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper Y2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

With a small, sharp knife, slit the plums open and remove and discard the pits . Wash the plums under cold running water, then place them in a heavy 2 - to 3 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan. Add the sugar and vinegar and, with a wooden spoon, stir until the sugar has almost dissolved . Bring to a boil over high heat, lower the heat, and simmer the plums, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is tender enough to be easily mashed against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon. Now stir in the cinnamon, mace, cloves, pepper and nutmeg, and raise the heat to high. Boil briskly, stirring frequently to prevent the mixture from sticking to the pan, for about 4 5 minutes, or until the ketchup has reached 2 1 5 ° on a candy thermometer . With a slotted spoon, skim off and discard any foam that may appear on the surface of the ketchup and ladle the ketchup at once into hot, sterilized j ars or glasses, following the directions for canning and sealing on page 1 06 . The ketchup provides an excellent accompaniment to wild game, other meats or poultry.

1 1 1

Apricot and Pineapple jam

To make 3 pints

3 pounds unpeeled firm ripe apricots

2 Vz pounds sugar ( 6!14 cups ) 1 cup cold water 2 cups finely diced fresh pineapple

Wash the apricots under cold running water. With a small, sharp knife, cut them in half, remove the pits, and set the pits aside. Place the halved apricots in a deep mixing bowl, add the sugar and, with a wooden spoon, toss the fruit to distribute the sugar evenly.

With a nutcracker or the flat side of a heavy knife or cleaver, split as many of the apricot pits as you need to obtain Vz cup of the kernels . Discard the cracked shells and the remaining pits.

In a 2- to 3 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine the sugared apricots with the water and mix them together thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly, then lower the heat and, stirring frequently, simmer the mixture uncovered for about 45 minutes, or until the j am is thick enough to hold its shape loosely in the spoon. Stir in the reserved apricot kernels and the pineapple, and simmer over very low heat until the j am registers 2 2 0 ° on a candy thermometer.

With a slotted spoon, skim off and discard any foam from the surface . Then ladle the hot j am into hot sterilized j ars or j elly glasses, following the directions for canning and sealing on page 1 06 .

Rhubarb-Ginger jam


4 pounds firm fresh rhubarb, trimmed, washed and cut into Vz-inch pieces (about 8 cups )

8 cups ( 4 pounds ) sugar

Vz cup water 4 ounces preserved candied ginger,

finely chopped Vz cup strained fresh lemon juice Y4 cup finely chopped lemon peel

Combine the rhubarb, sugar and water in a 6- to 8-quart enameled or stainless-steel pot and, stirring frequently, cook over low heat until the sug�.r is completely dissolved and the rhubarb somewhat soft. The bottom of the pan should be covered with liquid to a depth of at least 1 inch.

1 1 2

Increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Cook briskly, uncovered, until the j am reaches a temperature of 2 2 1 ° on a j elly, candy or deep-frying thermometer. Stir it frequently as it begins to thicken, and regulate the heat if necessary to prevent the j am from sticking to the bottom a:nd sides of the pot.

Remove from the heat and stir in the ginger, lemon j uice and lemon peel . With a slotted spoon skim off any foam that may appear on the surface and ladle the j am into hot sterilized j ars or j elly glasses, following the directions for canning and sealing on page 1 06 .

Pear Honey

To make about 1 quart

6Y2 to 7 pounds firm ripe pears, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

2 cups sugar 4 teaspoons finely grated fresh

lemon peel

With a small, sharp knife, cut out and discard the cores of the pears . Grate the pears on the finest blades of a standing four-sided grater. Combine the pear pulp and the sugar in a 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and, stirring constantly, bring to a boil over high heat. Then reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for about 45 minutes, or until the mixture is thick enough to hold its shape in a spoon. ( As it simmers, with a large spoon skim off any foam that rises to the surface, and stir the puree frequently to prevent it from sticking to the pan. )

Stir in the lemon peel and simmer for 2 minutes longer, then remove from the heat and pour into hot sterilized j ars, following the directions for canning and sealing on page 1 06 .

1 1 3

DIBIIRB

Strawberry Fran go

To serve 8 to 1 0

1 quart fresh strawberries, washed and hulled

1 cup milk

4 egg yolks 1 cup sugar Y1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups heavy cream, chilled

Crush the berries by mashing them against the sides of a bowl with a spoon and continue to mash until the berries are a smooth puree. Chill for at least 30 minutes .

Pour the milk into a heavy 2 - to 3 - quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and set it over moderate heat. When small bubbles form around the edges of the pan, immediately remove from the heat. Cover the pan and set the milk aside.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks and sugar together with a whisk or a rotary or electric beater until they are thick enough to form a slowly dissolving ribbon when the beater is lifted from the bowl. Gradually pour in the milk, whisking all the while. Then beat in the vanilla extract and pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Stir over low heat until the custard thickens lightly; do not let it come to a boil or it will curdle. Pour into a mixing bowl and cool to room temperature. Then refrigerate for 30 minutes .

In a chilled mixing bowl, beat the heavy cream with a whisk or a rotary or electric beater until it forms firm peaks . Remove the custard from the refrigerator and, with a rubber spatula, fold in the berries and then the whipped cream. Spoon the mixture into a 2 -quart mold and smooth the top with a spatula. Cover with plastic wrap or foil, and freeze for at least 6 hours, or until firm. In its frozen form the custard is known in the Northwest as a frango.

1 14

7

Rhubarb Ring with Strawberries

To serve 6

1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 pounds fresh rhubarb, trimmed,

washed and cut into Y2 -inch pieces ( about 4 cups )

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar 1 Y2 cups water

2 envelopes unflavored gelatin 1 cup heavy cream, chilled 1 tablespoon rum 2 cups fresh ripe strawberries,

hulled Confectioners' sugar

Brush the tablespoon of oil evenly over the inside surfaces of a 1 -quart ring mold, and wipe away all excess with a paper towel .

Combine the rhubarb, 1 cup of the sugar and 1 cup of the water in a 2 - to 3 -quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves . Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for about 1 0 minutes , or until the rhubarb is tender but still intact.

Meanwhile, sprinkle the 2 envelopes of gelatin into the remaining Y2 cup of water and let it soften for 4 or 5 minutes . Add the gelatin to the rhubarb mixture and stir until it dissolves completely. Then pour the mixture into the oiled ring mold, spreading it and smoothing the top with a spoon or rubber spatula . Cool to room temperature, cover the mold with foil or plastic wrap, then refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or until it is firm to the touch.

Just before serving, pour the cream into a large chilled bowl . Whip with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater until the cream is stiff enough to stand in firm, unwavering peaks on the beater when it is l ifted from the bowl . Beat in the remaining tablespoon of sugar and the rum, and taste for sweetness.

To unmold and serve the rhubarb ring, run a thin knife around the sides of the mold and dip the bottom briefly into hot water. Place an inverted serving plate on top of the mold and, grasping plate and mold together firmly, turn them over. Rap the plate on a table and the rhubarb ring should slide out easily. Arrange a row of strawberries around the ring and mound the rest of the berries in the center of the mold . Sprinkle the berries with confectioners ' sugar. Serve the whipped cream separately from a small bowl.

1 1 5

Wined Pears

To serve 4

1 cup red wine vinegar Y2 cup dry red wine 2 cups sugar 2 three-inch cinnamon sticks, or

substitute 1 teaspoon ground

onnamon 6 whole cloves 4 medium-sized firm ripe pears,

peeled, cut lengthwise in half and cored

Combine the vinegar, wine, sugar, cinnamon and cloves in a 3- to 4-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and bring to a boil over moderate heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves . Boil the syrup briskly, uncovered, for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to low.

Add the pear halves to the syrup and turn them about with a spoon until they are evenly coated. Partially cover the pan and simmer for 1 0 to 1 5 minutes, or until the pears are tender and show only the barest res istance when pierced deeply with the point of a small skewer or sharp knife. Remove the pan from the heat and let the pears cool to lukewarm in the syrup .

If you would like to serve the pear halves warm, discard the cinnamon sticks and cloves and, with a slotted spoon, transfer the halves to dessert dishes. Spoon some of the syrup over them before serving. To serve the pears cold, refrigerate them in the syrup until they are thoroughly chilled . They may also be served hot or cold with broiled or roasted meat.

Dreams

To make about thirty 1 Y2 -inch round drop cookies

10 tablespoons butter, softened 1 Y3 cups flour Y2 teaspoon baking soda

Ys teaspoon ground cardamom Y2 cup sugar 1 egg 1/,t cup whole filberts, shelled

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush, spread 2 tablespoons of the softened butter evenly over two large baking sheets . Combine the flour, baking soda and cardamom, and sift them together onto a plate or a piece of wax paper. Set aside .

In a deep bowl, cream the remaining 8 tablespoons of butter and the sugar together, beating and mashing them against the side of the bowl with the back of a spoon until the mixture is l ight and fluffy. Beat in the egg and, when it is thoroughly incorporated, add the flour mixture about Y2 cup at a time, beating well after each addition.

1 1 6

To shape each dream, scoop up about 1 tablespoon of the dough, then pat and roll it into a ball about 1 inch in diameter. Arrange the cookies 2 inches apart on the buttered baking sheets and press a whole filbert gently but firmly into the center of each one. Bake in the middle of the oven for about 1 0 minutes , or until the cookies are firm to the touch and a delicate golden-brown color.

Immediately transfer the cookies to wire cake racks with a metal spatula to cool to room temperature. The dreams can be kept safely in tightly covered j ars or tins for several weeks .

Blueberry Roll

To serve 6

1 pint ( 2 cups ) fresh ripe blueberries

Y2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons butter, softened, plus

6 tablespoons butter, chilled and cut into !�.!-inch bits

2 cups flour 2 teaspoons double-acting baking

powder Y2 teaspoon salt 1 egg Y3 cup milk

Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 ° . Wash the blueberries in a s ieve or colander set under cold running water, discarding any that are blemished. Then spread the berries on paper towels and pat them completely dry. Drop the berries into a bowl, add Y2 cup of the sugar and toss gently but thoroughly together .

With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter evenly over the bottom of a 1 6-by- 1 1 -inch j elly-roll pan.

Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar, the flour, baking powder and salt in a deep bowl . Add the 6 tablespoons of butter bits and, with your fingertips, rub the flour and butter together until they resemble flakes of coarse meal . Add the egg and milk, and beat vigorously with a spoon until the dough is smooth and can be gathered into a compact ball .

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out into a rectangle about 1 6 inches long, 1 0 inches wide and !1.1 inch thick. Spread the surface of the dough with the remaining 2 tablespoons of softened butter and scatter the sugared berries evenly over it. Starting at one long end, roll up the rectangle j elly-roll fashion into a tight cylinder, sealing the ends .

Carefully transfer the blueberry roll to the buttered pan and bake in the middle of the oven for 1 hour, or until it is golden brown. Slide the roll onto a wire rack to cool to room temperature before serving.

1 1 7

Krumkaker PASTRY CONES FILLED WITH CANDIED WHIPPED CREAM

To make 1 6

PASTRY

2 eggs V3 cup superfine sugar

3 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

A special krumkaker iron somewhat similar to a waffle iron, and heated on top of the stove, and its accompanying cone-shaped tube are recommended for the preparation of these pastry cones. These implements can be purchased at specialized cookware shops .

In a large bowl, beat the eggs and superfine sugar together with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater and continue to beat until the mixture has thickened and almost tripled in volume. Stir in the flour, a tablespoon at a time, and mix until the batter is smooth .

Lightly butter the cone-shaped tube and heat the krumkaker iron over moderate heat . When it is very hot, use a pastry brush to coat both its surfaces lightly with the melted butter. Drop 1 tablespoon of the batter into the center of the iron, close it, and cook for about 30 seconds. Turn the iron over and cook for another 30 seconds, then turn again and remove from the heat. Open the iron and peel off the golden pastry. Immediately wrap the cookie around the tube ; as soon as it hardens, slip it off and set aside. Repeat with the remaining batter, buttering the iron and tube for each cone you make.

CANDIED WHIPPED CREAM

1 ;.-2 cups heavy cream, chilled 1 tablespoon sugar % teaspoon vanilla extract

3 ounces peppermint candy, pulverized in a blender or wrapped in a towel and crushed with a rolling pin ( V3 cup )

The pastry cones can be baked several days in advance and kept crisp in airtight containers . Just before you are ready to serve the cones, whip the chilled cream with a whisk or a rotary or electric beater in a large, chilled bowl until it thickens . Add the tablespoon of sugar and the vanilla, and continue to beat until the cream is stiff enough to form unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl . Fold in the candy with a rubber spatula, and spoon the cream into a pastry bag fitted with a plain or decorative tip . Pipe the cream into the pastry cones and serve at once. Once filled, the pastry cones cannot be refrigerated or they will lose their crispness.

1 1 8

Ginger Cookies

To make about 5 dozen rolled cookies

2 cups flour 1 Y2 teaspoons baking soda 1 tablespoon ground ginger Y2 teaspoon ground cloves Y2 teaspoon ground mace 6 tablespoons butter, softened

1 cup dark-brown sugar Y3 cup dark molasses � teaspoon lemon extract Y3 cup heavy cream Y2 cup finely chopped crystallized

ginger

Combine the flour, baking soda, ginger, cloves and mace, and sift them onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper . In a deep bowl, cream 4 tablespoons of the butter with the brown sugar, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until they are l ight and fluffy. Mix in the molasses and the lemon extract .

Beat in about Y2 cup of the flour mixture and, when it is thoroughly incorporated, add 1 or 2 tablespoons of the cream. Repeat three more times, alternating Y2 cup of the flour with 1 or 2 tablespoons of the cream and beating well after each addition. Then stir in the chopped crystallized ginger, and shape the dough into a ball, then cut it in half. Wrap in wax paper and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or overnight, until the dough is completely chilled.

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of softened butter over two large baking sheets .

On a lightly floured surface, roll half of the dough into a rough rectangle about Ys inch thick. With a round or decorative cutter or the rim of a glass, cut the dough into individual cookies and arrange these about 1 inch apart on the buttered baking sheets . Gather the scraps of dough into a ball, roll it out as before and cut as many more cookies as you can.

Bake in the middle of the oven for about 8 minutes , or until the ginger cookies are crisp around the edges . With a metal spatula transfer them to wire racks to cool.

Let the baking sheets cool to room temperature, then brush them with the remaining tablespoon of softened butter. Roll out the remaining half of the dough and cut it as before. Arrange the cookies on the baking sheets and bake for 8 minutes, or until crisp. Cool them on wire racks. In tightly covered j ars or tins, the ginger cookies can safely be kept for two or three weeks.

1 19

Spritz Cookies

To make about 4 dozen pressed cookies

1 cup butter, softened 1 cup sugar

2 egg yolks 1 teaspoon almond extract 2Y2 cups flour

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . In a deep bowl, cream the butter and sugar together by beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a large spoon until they are l ight and fluffy. Beat in the egg yolks and, when they are well incorporated, add the almond extract. Sift the flour into the mixture about Y2 cup at a time, beating the dough well after each addition.

Place the dough in a pastry bag or cookie press fitted with a mediumsized star tip . Pipe the dough out onto ungreased baking sheets, forming rings about 1 Y2 inches in diameter or "S" shapes or crescents about 2

inches long, spaced about 1 inch apart. Bake in the middle of the oven for about 1 0 minutes, or until the cook

ies are firm and del icately browned. With a wide metal spatula, transfer them immediately to wire racks to cool . The cookies can be stored for several weeks in tightly sealed j ars or tins .

Filbert Macaroons

To make about 2 dozen l - inch round drop cookies

2 tablespoons butter, softened 2 tablespoons cornstarch

Y2 pound filberts ( 1 Y2 cups ) 1 cup sugar 3 egg whites

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the softened butter over two large baking sheets . Then sprinkle each of them with a tablespoon of the cornstarch, tipping the sheets from side to side to spread the cornstarch evenly. Turn the sheets over and rap them sharply on a table to remove the excess cornstarch. Set them aside.

Spread the filberts out on a cookie sheet or j elly-roll pan and roast in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes . Transfer to a damp kitchen towel and rub with another damp towel to remove the skins . Pulverize the peeled nuts in a blender or nut grinder.

1 20

With a large mortar and pestle or in a deep bowl with the back of a wooden spoon, pound the pulverized filberts and sugar together. When they are well combined, beat in the egg whites one at a time and continue to pound until the doughlike mixture is smooth and thick enough to hold its shape almost solidly.

Reduce the oven temperature to 300 ° . Drop the dough by the tablespoonful onto the prepared baking sheets, spacing the macaroons about an inch apart. Bake in the middle of the oven for about 30 minutes, or until the macaroons are a delicate golden brown and firm to the touch . With a large metal spatula, immediately transfer the macaroons to wire racks to cool . In a tightly covered jar or tin, the filbert macaroons can be kept safely for several weeks .

Rye Cookies

To make about 40 rolled cookies

2 teaspoons butter, softened, plus 1;2 pound unsalted butter, cut into 1;2 -inch bits and softened

Y3 cup sugar 1 ll.i cups rye flour combined with

1 ll.i cups all-purpose flour

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the 2 teaspoons or softened butter over two large baking sheets . Set aside.

In a deep bowl, cream the butter bits and the sugar together by beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until they are light and fluffy. Add the flour, about V2 cup at a time, and beat well after each addition. Gather the dough into a ball, wrap in wax paper and refrigerate for 1 0 or 1 5 minutes .

On a l ightly floured surface, roll out the dough into a rough rectangle about ll.i inch thick and, with a 2 V2 -inch doughnut cutter, cut it into rings . Arrange the cookie rings about 1 inch apart on the buttered baking sheets with a wide metal spatula. Then gather the scraps of dough into a ball; roll it out as before, and cut as many more rye cookies as you can.

Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 5 minutes , or until the cookies are delicately browned. With a large metal spatula, transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool . In a tightly covered j ar or tin, rye cookies can safely be kept for one to two weeks .

1 2 1

Vienna Sticks

To make 3 dozen 2 -by- 1 -inch rolled cookies

1 0 tablespoons butter, softened ;4 cup granulated white sugar 1 ;4 to 1 Y2 cups flour 6 tablespoons apricot or raspberry

preserves Y2 cup confectioners ' sugar 2 teaspoons warm water 2 drops almond extract

Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 ° . With a pastry brush, spread 2 tablespoons of the softened butter evenly over two large baking sheets . Set aside.

In a deep bowl, cream the remaining 8 tablespoons of butter and the granulated sugar together, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until the mixture is light and fluffy. Add 1 ;4 cups of the flour Y4 cup at a time, beating well after each addition. The dough should be firm enough to be gathered into a compact ball . If necessary, add up to Y4 cup more flour by the tablespoonful . When the dough becomes too stiff to stir easily, knead in the remaining flour with your fingers .

Place the dough on a l ightly floured surface and pat it into a rough rectangle about 1 inch thick. Dust a little flour over and under it and roll the dough out from the center to within an inch of the far edge. Lift the dough and turn it at right angles ; roll again from the center to within an inch or so of the far edge. Repeat-lifting, turning, rolling-until the rectangle is about 1 2 inches long, 6 inches wide and ;4 inch thick.

With a ruler and a pastry wheel or sharp knife, trim the dough to exactly 1 2 by 6 inches . Then cut the rectangle lengthwise into six strips, each 1 2 inches long and 1 inch wide. Using the handle of a wooden spoon or of a table knife, gently but firmly press a groovelike indentation about Ys inch deep along the length of each strip of dough.

Brush 1 tablespoon of apricot or raspberry preserves evenly into the indentation in each strip, then cut the strips crosswise into 2 - inch lengths . Arrange the cookies on the buttered baking sheets with a metal spatula, spacing them about 3 inches apart.

Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes, or until the Vienna sticks are firm to the touch and a delicate golden brown. Immediately transfer the cookies to wire cake racks to cool.

While the Vienna sticks are still warm, stir the confectioners ' sugar, water and almond extract together in a bowl and spoon the mixture evenly over the apricot or raspberry preserves .

1 22

Royal Rhubarb Cake

To serve 6

1 tablespoon butter, softened, plus 4 tablespoons butter, chilled and cut into Y-1-inch bits

1 pound fresh rhubarb, trimmed, washed and cut into � -inch pieces (about 2 cups)

% cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose

flour 1 tablespoon freshly grated orange

peel 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons double-acting baking

powder � teaspoon salt 1 egg, lightly beaten and combined

with 3 tablespoons milk 3 tablespoons strained fresh orange

juice 1 cup heavy cream, chilled

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush , spread the tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of an 8 -by-6 � -by-2- inch baking dish. Arrange the rhubarb pieces in one layer on the bottom of the dish. Mix % cup of the sugar, 2 tablespoons of the flour, the orange peel and the cinnamon together in a bowl, and sprinkle over the rhubarb.

Combine the remaining cup of flour, 2 tablespoons of the remaining sugar, the baking powder and the salt, and sift them into a bowl. Add the 4 tablespoons of butter bits and, with your fingertips, rub the flour and fat together until they resemble flakes of coarse meal . Pour in the egg-andmilk mixture and mix with your fingers or a wooden spoon until the dough is smooth. Spoon over the rhubarb and smooth the top with a spatula. Bake in the middle of the oven for 25 minutes. Then mix the orange j uice and the remaining tablespoon of sugar and brush over the top of the cake. Bake for 1 5 minutes longer, or until the top is brown and a toothpick or cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean.

Remove the cake from the oven and run a thin-bladed knife around the edges to loosen the sides. Place an inverted serving plate over the cake and, grasping plate and baking dish together firmly, turn them over. Rap the plate on a table ; the cake should then slide out easily. If any bits of rhubarb stick to the baking dish, lift them out and replace them on the cake. Serve at once, accompanied by the chilled cream.

1 23

Filbert Applesauce Cake

To serve 8 to 1 0

6 medium-sized tart cooking apples ( about 2 pounds ) , peeled, cored and coarsely chopped

1 Y2 cups sugar ;..4 cup water 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon

juice 1 cup pitted dried prunes 9 tablespoons butter, softened

2 tablespoons plus 2 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Y2 teaspoon ground cloves 1 egg 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 Y2 cups blanched shelled filberts,

finely chopped 1 cup seedless raisins

First prepare the applesauce in the following fashion : Combine the apples, Y2 cup of the sugar, the water and the lemon j uice in a 2- to 3-quart enameled saucepan . Bring to a boil over moderate heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves . Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered until the apples are soft and most of the liquid in the pan has evaporated. Then mash the apples against the sides of the pan with the back of a spoon and, stirring constantly, continue to simmer until the applesauce is thick enough to hold its shape almost solidly in the spoon. Puree the applesauce through a food mill set over a bowl, or rub it through a fine sieve with the back of the spoon. Set aside to cool completely to room temperature .

Meanwhile, drop the prunes into a small saucepan and pour in enough water to cover them by at least 1 inch . Bring to a boil over high heat, then remove the pan from the heat, cover, and let the prunes soak in the cooking liquid for 1 5 minutes . Drain the prunes, chop them fine, and let them cool completely.

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush , spread 1 tablespoon of the softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9-by-5 -by- 3- inch loaf pan. Add 2 tablespoons of flour and tip the pan from side to side to distribute it evenly. Invert the pan and rap sharply to remove the excess flour.

Combine the remaining 2 cups of flour with the baking soda, cinnamon and cloves , and sift them onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper.

In a deep bowl, cream the remaining 8 tablespoons of softened butter and 1 cup of sugar together, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with a spoon until the mixture is light and fluffy. Beat in the egg and the vanilla extract and, when they are well incorporated, add the applesauce, prunes, filberts and raisins . Stir in the flour mixture, Y2 cup at a time, beating well after each addition.

Pour the batter into the buttered-and-floured pan, smoothing it and spreading the top with a spatula. Bake in the middle of the oven for 1

1 24

hour, or until a toothpick or cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Turn the cake out onto a wire rack to cool . Serve the cake warm, or at room temperature.

NOTE : If you cannot buy blanched filberts, spread unblanched ones out on a cookie sheet or j elly-roll pan and roast in the middle of a preheated 3 5 0 ° oven for 20 minutes . Then transfer to a damp kitchen towel and rub with another damp towel to remove the skins.

Professor's Cake

To serve 4

!1.! cup soft fresh crumbs made from homemade-type white bread, pulverized in a blender or finely shredded with a fork

2 tablespoons butter, softened, plus

8 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled

1 cup sugar 2 eggs Y2 cup flour Y2 cup finely chopped almonds

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . Spread the bread crumbs in a small shallow pan and, stirring frequently, toast them in the middle of the oven for about 5 minutes, or until they are golden brown and crisp . Turn the crumbs out onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper to cool.

With a pastry brush, spread the 2 tablespoons of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9- inch round cake pan. Add the toasted crumbs, then tip the pan from side to side to distribute them evenly over the bottom and sides of the pan.

In a deep bowl, combine the 8 tablespoons of melted and cooled butter and the sugar, and mix well . With a wooden spoon, beat in the eggs, then add the flour and almonds, and beat until the batter is smooth.

Pour the batter into the crumb-lined cake pan. Then bake in the middle of the preheated oven for 1 5 to 20 minutes , or until the cake begins to draw away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick or cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve hot or at room temperature, directly from the pan.

1 2 5

Marble Spice Cake

To make one 9Y2-inch cake

1 tablespoon butter, softened 2 tablespoons flour

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a tube cake pan 9Y2 inches in diameter and 3 % inches deep . Add 2 tablespoons of flour and tip the pan from side to side to coat it evenly. Then invert the pan and rap the bottom sharply to remove the excess flour.

SPICE CAKE

2 cups cake flour, sifted before measuring

1 teaspoon baking soda 1 Y2 teaspoons ground cinnamon Y2 teaspoon ground cloves Y2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

� teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons vegetable shortening 1 cup dark-brown sugar, firmly

packed 4 egg yolks Y2 cup dark molasses 1 cup buttermilk

For the spice cake, combine the 2 cups of cake flour, the baking soda, cinnamon, cloves , nutmeg and � teaspoon of salt, and sift them into a bowl . In another bowl, cream the vegetable shortening and brown sugar together, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until they are l ight and fluffy. Beat in the egg yolks, one at a time, and then the molasses. Stir in about Y2 cup of the flour mixture and, when it is well incorporated, add � cup of the buttermilk. Repeat three more times, alternately adding Y2 cup of the flour mixture and � cup of the buttermilk, and continue to beat until the batter is smooth. Set aside.

WHITE CAKE

2Y2 cups cake flour, sifted before measuring

2 teaspoons double-act ing baking powder

\4 teaspoon salt

8 tablespoons butter, softened 1 cup sugar % cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 4 egg whites

For the white cake, combine the 2 Y2 cups of cake flour, the baking powder and � teaspoon of salt, and sift them into a bowl. In another bowl, cream the 8 tablespoons of softened butter and the sugar together, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until they are l ight and fluffy. Stir in about Y2 cup of the flour

1 26

mixture and, when it is well incorporated, add 2 or 3 tablespoons of the milk. Repeat three more times, alternately adding Yz cup of the flour mixture and 2 or 3 tablespoons of milk, and continue to beat until the batter is smooth. Stir in the vanilla.

With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the egg whites until they are stiff enough to stand in firm, unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl. Pour the egg whites over the whitecake batter and, with a rubber spatula, fold them together gently.

To create a marbleized effect with the two cake batters, scoop about � cup of each of them into two ladles or small liquid measuring cups. Alternately place � cup of the dark batter and � cup of the l ight batter next to each other all around the bottom of the pan. Fill the ladles or cups again and make a second layer placing dark on light and light on dark. Repeat, alternating dark and light batters in each layer, until all the batter is used .

Bake in the middle of the oven for 5 0 to 60 minutes , or until a toothpick or cake tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean . Let the cake cool in the pan for about 1 0 minutes, then turn it out onto a wire rack to cool to room temperature.

FROSTING ( optional ) 6 one-ounce squares semisweet

chocolate, coarsely chopped 3 tablespoons butter, cut into

Yz -inch bits

Y3 cup light cream Yz teaspoon vanilla extract Yz teaspoon ground cinnamon Yz cup confectioners' sugar

Meanwhile, if you want chocolate cream frosting, prepare it in the following fashion : In a small, heavy saucepan, melt the chocolate and 3 tablespoons of butter bits over low heat, stirring constantly to prevent the chocolate from burning. Add the l ight cream, vanilla and cinnamon, and stir until the mixture is smooth . Remove the pan from the heat and sift in the confectioners' sugar a few tablespoonfuls at a time, beating well after each addition. Stirring from time to time, let the frosting cool until it thickens enough to be easily spread . Then frost the top and sides of the cake with a metal spatula or table knife.

1 27

Whipped-Cream Cake

To make one 8-inch layer cake

2 tablespoons butter, softened 2 tablespoons plus 2 !/.i cups cake

flour, not the self-rising variety 1 Y2 cups sugar 2 teaspoons double-acting baking

powder

Y2 teaspoon salt 3 Y2 cups heavy cream, chilled Y2 teaspoon vanilla extract Y2 teaspoon almond extract 3 eggs 1 pint ( about 2 cups ) fresh ripe

strawberries

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a pastry brush, spread the softened butter over the bottom and sides of two 8-by- 1 Y2 -inch round cake pans . Add 1 tablespoon of flour to each pan, then tip the pans from side to side to spread the flour evenly. Invert the pans one at a time and rap the bottom sharply to remove the excess flour . Set aside.

Combine the remaining flour, the sugar, baking powder and salt, and sift them together onto a plate or a sheet of wax paper . Set aside. In a chilled bowl, beat 1 Y2 cups of the cream with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater until stiff enough to stand in firm peaks on the beater when it is l ifted from the bowl . Beat in the vanilla and almond extracts.

With the same unwashed beater, beat the eggs in a deep bowl for 4 or 5 minutes , until they are thick enough to fall in a slowly dissolving ribbon from the l ifted beater . With a rubber spatula scoop the whipped cream over the eggs and fold them together using an over-under cutting motion rather than a stirring motion. Sprinkle the reserved flour-andsugar mixture over the batter about 1 cup at a time, and fold it in gently but thoroughly.

Pour the batter into the buttered-and-floured cake pans, dividing it evenly between them and smoothing the top with the spatula. Bake in the middle of the oven for about 30 minutes , or until a toothpick or cake tester inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean. Turn the layers out on wire racks to cool .

Meanwhile, pick over the strawberries, remove the stems or caps and discard any fruit that is badly bruised or shows signs of mold . Wash the berries in a sieve or colander under cold running water, drain, then spread them on paper towels and pat them completely dry . Set the 1 2 best strawberries aside to garnish the cake and chop the rest coarsely .

Just before serving, beat the remaining 2 cups of cream in a chilled bowl with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater . When the cream is stiff enough to stand in unwavering peaks, place one cooled cake layer on a serving plate and spread it evenly with half of the whipped cream. Scatter the chopped strawberries over it, and set the second cake layer on top .

1 28

Spread the remaining whipped cream over the cake and decorate the top with the reserved whole berries . Serve at once.

Huckleberry Cake

To make one 8-inch cake

1 tablespoon plus Y2 pound unsalted butter, softened

2 tablespoons plus 2Y2 cups all-purpose flour

1 Y<t cups sugar 4 eggs 2 Y2 teaspoons double-acting

baking powder Y<i teaspoon salt 1 Y2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 Y2 cups huckleberries, or

substitute 1 Y2 cups blueberries, washed

1 cup heavy cream, chilled 2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 o . With a pastry brush, spread the bottom and sides of an 8-inch springform cake pan with 1 tablespoon of the softened butter . Sprinkle evenly with 2 tablespoons of the flour, then invert and rap against a hard surface to dislodge any excess flour . Set aside.

Cream the Y2 pound of softened butter and the sugar together by beating and mashing them against the sides of a bowl with the back of a wooden spoon, or by using an electric mixer set at medium speed. When light and fluffy, beat in the eggs, 1 at a time.

Sift together 2 Y<i cups of the flour, the baking powder and salt. Beat this into the creamed butter mixture Y<i cup at a time and, when the ingredients are well combined, beat in the vanilla extract. Place the berries in a small mixing bowl and toss with the remaining Y<i cup of flour. With a rubber spatula, gently fold the berries into the batter, being careful not to mash them. Pour into the prepared springform pan and bake in the middle of the oven for about 1 hour, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Remove the sides of the springform pan and cool the cake for about 1 S minutes .

In a chilled mixing bowl, beat the cream with a whisk or a rotary or electric beater until it begins to thicken. Beat in the confectioners' sugar and continue to beat until the cream is thick enough to form firm peaks . Serve at once with the warm huckleberry cake. Transfer the whipped cream to a serving bowl and present it separately.

1 29

Vinarterta VIENNA TORTE

To serve 1 0 to 1 2

PASTRY

2 Y2 cups flour Y2 teaspoon baking soda Y2 teaspoon double-acting baking

powder Y2 teaspoon freshly ground

cardamom Y4 teaspoon salt Y4 cup sour cream Y2 teaspoon vanilla extract 8 tablespoons butter, softened 1 cup sugar 2 eggs

Combine the flour, baking soda, baking powder, Y2 teaspoon cardamom and Y4 teaspoon salt, and sift them together onto a plate or a piece of wax paper. Stir the sour cream and Y2 teaspoon vanilla extract together in a cup or small bowl.

In a deep bowl, cream the butter and sugar together, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until the mixture is l ight and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Then beat in about Y2 cup of the flour mixture and, when it is thoroughly incorporated, add 1 tablespoon of the sour-cream mixture. Repeat four more times, alternating Y2 cup of the flour with 1 tablespoon of the sour cream and beating well after each addition. Divide the dough into four parts, shape each part into a ball and wrap in wax paper . Refrigerate the dough for at least 2 hours .

When you are ready to bake the pastry, preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . Roll out each piece of the dough in the following fashion : Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and pat it into a rough rectangle about 1 inch thick. Dust a little flour over and under it and roll the dough out, from the center to within an inch of the far edge. Lift the dough gently and turn it at right angles ; roll again from the center to within an inch or so of the far edge. Repeat-lifting, turning, rolling-until the rectangle is about 1 4 inches long, 8 to 8 Y2 inches wide and Ys inch thick.

With the aid of one or two large metal spatulas carefully place the rectangle on one half of a 1 7 -by- 1 4-inch baking sheet. Roll a second piece of dough into another 1 4-by-8 Y2 -by- Ys -inch rectangle and fit it beside the first rectangle to cover the baking sheet completely. Then repeat the entire procedure to cover another 1 7 -by- 1 4-inch baking sheet with the remaining two pieces of dough .

Bake the pastry in the middle of the oven for 1 0 to 1 2 minutes , or until it is a delicate brown and the top springs back when prodded gently with a finger. With a ruler and a pastry wheel or sharp knife, immediately cut the pastry into four 1 4-by-4 Y4 -inch rectangles . Transfer them at once to wire racks to cool to room temperature.

1 30

FILLING

1 cup pitted dried prunes % cup dried apricots � cup sugar Ys teaspoon freshly ground

cardamom Y<l teaspoon plus Ys teaspoon

vanilla extract

Ys teaspoon salt A 1 -ounce square semisweet

chocolate, coarsely chopped 4 tablespoons butter, softened 1 egg yolk Y<l cup confectioners ' sugar

Meanwhile, prepare the filling : Place the prunes and apricots in a small enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and pour in enough cold water to cover the fruit by 1 inch . Bring to a boil over h igh heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer partially covered for about 20 minutes, or until the fruit is tender and shows no resistance when pierced deeply with the point of a small knife.

Drain off, measure and reserve Y<l cup of the cooking liquid, discarding the remainder. Puree the fruit through a food mill into a bowl or rub it through a fine sieve with the back of a spoon. Then return the puree and the reserved Y<l cup of liquid to the saucepan. Add V3 cup of the sugar and Ys teaspoon of cardamom and, stirring frequently, simmer over low heat until the puree is thick enough to hold its shape almost solidly in the spoon. With a rubber spatula, scrape the fruit mixture into a small bowl. Cool to room temperature, then stir in Y<l teaspoon of the vanilla extract and the Ys teaspoon of salt .

Place the chocolate in a small heatproof bowl and set it in a pan of simmering ( not boiling ) water. Stir the chocolate until it has melted, then remove the bowl from the water and let the chocolate cool to lukewarm.

In a deep bowl, cream 4 tablespoons of softened butter with the remaining V3 cup of sugar, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until the mixture is fluffy. Beat in the egg yolk and, when it is completely incorporated, add the chocolate, the fruit puree and the remaining Ys teaspoon of vanilla.

To assemble the vinarterta, place one rectangular layer of pastry on a serving plate and spread it evenly with about Y<l cup of the filling mixture. Set a second layer of pastry on top, press it gently in place, and spread with Y<l cup of filling. Repeat five more times, then set the final layer on top . With a sharp knife carefully cut away any rough edges to make the cake as symmetrical as possible. Spread the remaining filling mixture evenly around the sides of the vinarterta and sift the confectioners ' sugar over the top . Cover the cake with foil and refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving.

1 3 1

Custard Angel Cake

To serve 6 to 8

8 egg yolks 1 !4 cups sugar Y2 cup water 8 egg whites !4 teaspoon salt

1 cup cake flour ( not the self-rising variety) , sifted before measuring

1 cup filberts, pulverized in a blender or with a nut grinder

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh orange peel

Preheat the oven to 300 ° . With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the egg yolks for 4 or 5 minutes. They should be thick enough to fall in a slowly dissolving ribbon when the beater is lifted above the bowl.

Immediately combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over moderate heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat and boil the syrup briskly, uncovered and undisturbed, until it reaches a temperature of 2 3 5 ° on a candy thermometer, or until a

drop spooned into a glass of cold water forms a soft ball . Beating the egg yolks constantly, pour in the syrup in a slow, thin

stream and continue to beat until the mixture has doubled in volume and cooled. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites and the salt with a clean whisk or a rotary or electric beater until they stand in unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted from the bowl.

Stir a few tablespoonfuls of the egg whites into the egg-yolk mixture, then scoop the mixture over the whites and fold the two together with a rubber spatula, using an over-under cutting motion rather than a stirring motion. Sift the flour over the top and fold it in gently but thoroughly. Then fold in the pulverized nuts and grated orange peel .

Pour the batter into an ungreased angel-food tube cake pan and smooth the top with the spatula. Bake in the middle of the oven for 1 Y2 hours, or until the cake begins to shrink away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick or cake tester inserted in the middle comes out clean.

Invert over a wire rack and let the cake cool to room temperature before removing it from the pan. Then transfer the cake to a large serving platter. Custard angel cake is often served with ice cream or with fresh berries and whipped cream.

1 3 2

Short-Crust Pastry

To make one 9- inch pie shell

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into Y<l -inch bits, plus 1 tablespoon butter, softened

2 tablespoons lard, chilled and cut

into Y<l -inch bits 1 ;.-1 cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon sugar Y4 teaspoon salt 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water

PASTRY DOUGH : In a large, chilled bowl, combine the butter bits, lard, flour, sugar and salt. With your fingertips rub the flour and fat together until they look like flakes of coarse meal . Do not let the mixture become oily. Pour 3 tablespoons of ice water over the mixture all at once, toss together lightly and gather the dough into a ball. If the dough crumbles , add up to 1 tablespoon more ice water by drops until the particles adhere . ( If you are making a double-crust or lattice-topped pie shell , pour 6 tablespoons of ice water over the flour-and-fat mixture, toss together and gather the dough into a ball . If necessary, add up to 2 tablespoons more ice water by drops. )

Dust the pastry dough with a l ittle flour and wrap it in wax paper. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before using.

TO MAKE AN U N FILLED PIE S H E L L : To prepare a baked but unfilled, or "blind," pie shell, spread 1 tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie tin with a pastry brush .

Preheat the oven to 400 ° . On a l ightly floured surface, pat the dough into a rough circle about 1 inch thick. Dust a little flour over and under it, and roll it out from the center to within an inch of the far edge of the pastry. Lift the dough and turn it clockwise about 2 inches ; roll again from the center to within an inch or so of the far edge. Repeat-lifting, turning, rolling-until the circle is about Ys inch thick and 1 3 to 1 4 inches in diameter. If the dough sticks to the board or table, lift it gently with a metal spatula and sprinkle a little flour under it.

Drape the dough over the rolling pin, l ift it up, and unroll it slackly over the buttered pie tin. Gently press the dough into the bottom and sides of the tin, being careful not to stretch it . With a pair of scissors, cut off the excess dough from the edges, leaving a l -inch overhang all around the outside rim.

To prevent the unfilled pastry from buckling as it bakes, spread a sheet of buttered aluminum foil across the tin and press it gently into the bottom and against the sides of the pastry shell.

TO MAKE A PARTIA L LY BAKED PIE S H E L L : Bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 1 0 minutes, then remove the foil . Bake for another 2 minutes.

TO MAKE A F U L LY BAKED SH E L L : Bake on the middle shelf of the oven

Continued on next page 1 3 3

for 1 0 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for another 8 minutes, or until the shell begins to brown.

Remove the pie shell from the oven and cool to room temperature before filling.

To make one 9-inch double-crust or lattice-topped pie

12 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into Y<l-inch bits, plus 1 tablespoon butter, softened

4 tablespoons lard, chilled and cut

into Y<l -inch bits 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar Y2 teaspoon salt 6 to 8 tablespoons ice water

TO MAKE A DOU B L E -CRUST PIE SHE L L : Prepare the pastry dough as described above, using the amounts of ingredients called for in the list for a double-crust shell, and chill it for at least 1 hour. With a pastry brush, spread 1 tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie tin. Divide the dough in half and return one part to the refrigerator until you are ready to use it.

On a lightly floured surface, roll half of the dough into a circle about Ys inch thick and 1 3 to 14 inches in diameter, following the directions for the baked unfilled pie shell . Drape the dough over the rolling pin, lift it up, and unroll it slackly over the buttered pie tin. Gently press the dough into the bottom and sides of the tin, being careful not to stretch it. With a pair of scissors , cut off the excess dough from the edges . Refrigerate the pastry shell while you prepare the pie filling.

When the pie has been filled, roll out the second half of the dough on a lightly floured surface, lifting and turning the dough after each rolling to make a circle about Ys inch thick.

With a pastry brush dipped in cold water, lightly moisten the outside edge of the pastry shell . Drape the dough over the rolling pin, lift it up, and unroll it over the pie. Cut off the pastry to within Y2 inch of the edges of the tin with scissors, then crimp the top and bottom pastry together firmly with your fingers or press them with the tines of a fork. Trim the excess pastry from around the rim with a sharp knife, and cut two or three 1 Y2 - to 2-inch-long parallel slits about 1 inch apart in the top crust of the pie.

TO MAKE A LATTICE -TOP P E D PIE SH E L L : Prepare the pastry dough as described above. Then, following the directions for a double-crust pie shell, roll out half of the dough and press it into the pie tin. Trim the excess pastry from the edges and refrigerate the pastry shell while you prepare the filling.

1 34

When the pie has been filled, roll out the second half of the dough on a lightly floured surface, lifting and turning the dough after each rolling, to make a rough rectangle about 1 2 inches long by 9 inches wide and about Ys inch thick. With a plain or fluted pastry wheel, or a sharp knife, cut the rectangle into 1 8 strips, each Y2 inch wide.

To make the lattice topping, center one strip across the middle of the pie. Arrange four parallel strips on each side of it, spacing the strips about Y2 inch apart. Turn the pie and, in a similar fashion, arrange nine more strips at right angles ( or diagonally ) to the first series .

With a pastry brush dipped in cold water, lightly moisten the ends of the strips at the point where they meet the bottom pastry shell . Trim the excess off the strips and crimp their ends firmly in place with your fingers or the tines of a fork.

Rhubarb Custard Pie


3 eggs 1 cup sugar Y2 cup milk 1 pound fresh rhubarb, trimmed,

washed and cut into Y3 -inch dice ( 2 cups )

1 nine-inch short-crust pastry pie shell (page 1 33) , partially baked and cooled to room temperature

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the eggs and sugar together in a deep bowl for 4 or 5 minutes , or until the mixture is thick enough to fall from the beater in a slowly dissolving ribbon when it is lifted from the bowl . Then add the milk and beat until it is thoroughly absorbed.

Spread the rhubarb evenly in the cooled, partially baked pie shell and pour the egg-and-milk mixture over it. Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the custard is firm and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.

Cool the pie to room temperature before serving it .

1 3 5

Vinegar Pie


Y4 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Y4 teaspoon ground cloves Yz teaspoon ground nutmeg Y4 teaspoon ground coriander � teaspoon salt 4 egg whites 1 cup sugar

4 egg yolks 1 cup sour cream Y4 cup cider vinegar 1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped 1 partially baked 9-inch pie shell

(page 133) 1 cup heavy cream, chilled 2 tablespoons confectioners ' sugar

Preheat the oven to 3 5 0 ° . Combine the flour, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, coriander and salt, and sift them together into a bowl. Set aside.

With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the egg whites -preferably in an unlined copper bowl-until they foam. Beating constantly, slowly pour in the sugar and continue to beat until the whites are firm enough to form stiff, unwavering peaks when the beater is lifted out of the bowl.

In another bowl, with the unwashed beater, beat the egg yolks for 3 to 5 minutes, until they are thick. With a rubber spatula fold the egg whites into the beaten yolks, using an over-and-under cutting motion rather than a stirring one. In the same fashion fold in the reserved flour mixture, then the sour cream, vinegar and walnuts . Continue to fold until the liquids have been absorbed; be careful, however, not to overfold.

Spoon the filling into the partially baked, cooled pie shell and smooth the top with a rubber spatula. Bake in the center of the oven for about 3 5 minutes, until the filling is firm. Let the pie cool to room temperature.

Just before serving, beat the heavy cream until it holds soft peaks, then add the confectioners' sugar and beat until the cream is stiff. Pipe it on top of the pie through a pastry bag fitted with a plain or decorative tip, or spread it over the surface in decorative swirls with a rubber spatula.

1 36

Prune Pie


2 cups dried pitted prunes V<i cup dry sherry Y2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts 2 egg whites

3 tablespoons sugar 1 partially baked 9-inch pie shell

(page 133) 1 cup heavy cream, chilled 2 tablespoons confectioners ' sugar

Place the prunes in a small saucepan and pour in enough water to cover them by about an inch. Over high heat, bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer the prunes for about 20 minutes, or until you can mash one of them easily against the side of the pan with the back of a fork. Drain the prunes through a sieve, discard the cooking liquid, and transfer the prunes to a large glass or stainless-steel bowl. Pour in the sherry and toss the prunes about to moisten them evenly. Let them cool to room temperature, stirring them every now and then.

Preheat the oven to 400 ° . When the prunes have cooled completely, puree them through a food mill or with the back of a wooden spoon rub them through a s ieve set over a bowl . Stir the walnuts into the puree.

With a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater, beat the egg whites -preferably in an unlined copper bowl-until they begin to froth . Add the sugar and continue to beat until the whites form stiff unwavering peaks on the beater when it is lifted out of the bowl . With a rubber spatula, mix about Y3 of the whites into the prune mixture, and gently but thoroughly fold in the remaining whites, using an over-under cutting motion rather than a stirring one. Spoon the filling into the pie shell and smooth the top with the spatula.

Bake the pie in the center of the oven for about 20 minutes, or until the filling is firm and the top lightly browned. Cool to room temperature. Just before serving, beat the cream until it holds soft peaks, then add the confectioners' sugar and beat until the cream is stiff. Pipe it on top of the pie through a pastry bag fitted with a plain or decorative tip, or spread it on in decorative swirls with a rubber spatula, and serve.

1 37

Fresh Strawberry Pie


6 cups ( 1 ;.2 quarts ) firm ripe strawberries, preferably wild strawberries

A 9-inch short-crust pastry pie shell, baked and cooled (page 133)

;.2 cup sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons cold water 1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon

juice 1 cup heavy cream, chilled

Pick over the berries carefully, removing the stems and hulls and discarding any fruit that is badly bruised or shows signs of mold . Wash in a sieve or colander under cold running water, then spread on paper towels to drain. Pat the berries completely dry. Place half of them in the cooled baked pie shell and set aside.

Chop the remaining berries fine and combine them with the sugar in a 2 - to 3-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan . Stirring from time to time, bring the berries to a simmer over moderate heat. In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch, cold water and lemon juice together to make a smooth paste. Then, stirring constantly, pour the paste into the berry mixture and continue to cook for 2 or 3 minutes, until the mixture thickens enough to hold its shape lightly in the spoon. Puree through a fine sieve set over a bowl, press ing down hard on the berries before discarding the seeds . Taste and add more sugar or lemon j uice if desired. Pour the puree over the berries in the pie shell , spreading it evenly with a rubber spatula. Drape the pie lightly with aluminum foil or wax paper and refrigerate for at least 2 hours .

Just before serving, whip the cream in a chilled bowl with a wire whisk or a rotary or electric beater. When it is stiff enough to stand in unwavering peaks on the beater, scoop it over the pie and spread it out with a spatula. Make decorative swirls in the cream with the tip of the spatula and serve at once. Alternatively, you may serve the cream separately, permitting each diner to add as much as he wants to his portion.

1 38

Sour-Cherry Pie

To make one 9-inch double-crust pie

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened, plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into V-i -inch bits

Short-crust pastry for a double-crust pie (page 1 33)

6 cups pitted sour cherries ( from about 3 % pounds )

Y-1 cup quick-cooking tapioca 1 cup sugar 1 � tablespoons strained fresh

lemon juice Y-1 teaspoon almond extract

With a pastry brush, spread the tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie tin. Make pastry for a double-crust pie, divide it in half, and chill for at least one hour.

On a lightly floured surface, roll half of the dough into a rough circle about Ys inch thick and 1 2 to 1 3 inches in diameter . Drape the dough over the rolling pin, lift it up, and unroll it slackly over the pie tin. Gently press the dough into the bottom and sides of the tin. With a pair of scissors, cut off the excess dough from the edges, leaving a l -inch overhang all around the outside rim. Refrigerate while you prepare the filling.

Combine the sour cherries, tapioca, sugar, lemon j uice and almond extract in a large bowl, and toss together gently but thoroughly. Let the mixture rest uncovered and at room temperature for about 1 0 minutes. Then spoon the contents of the bowl into the unbaked pie shell and, with a rubber spatula, spread out the cherries as evenly as possible. Dot the top of the filling with the butter bits .

Preheat the oven to 4 5 0 ° . For the upper crust, roll the remaining half of the dough into a circle about Ys inch thick and 1 2 to 1 3 inches in diameter. With a pastry brush dipped in cold water, lightly moisten the outside edge of the pastry shell. Drape the dough over the rolling pin, lift it up and unroll it over the pie. Trim off the excess pastry from around the rim with scissors, then crimp the top and bottom pastry together firmly with your fingertips or press them with the tines of a fork. Cut a l -inch hole in the center of the top of the pie. Bake in the center of the oven for 1 0 minutes, then lower the heat to 3 5 0 ° and bake another 40 to 45 minutes, or until the top is golden brown.

1 39

Blackberry Pie

To make one 9-inch latticework pie

Short-crust pastry for a 9-inch lattice-topped pie (page 1 33)

1 tablespoon butter, softened, plus 1 tablespoon butter, chilled and cut into �-inch bits

6 cups fresh blackberries � cup cornstarch 2 tablespoons water 1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon

juice

Prepare the pastry for a double-crust pie, wrap it in wax paper and chill it for at least 30 minutes . With a sharp knife, cut the dough in half, wrap one half in wax paper again and refrigerate until you are ready to use it.

With a pastry brush, spread the tablespoon of softened butter over the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie tin. Roll the first half of the dough into a circle about Ys inch thick and 1 3 to 1 4 inches in diameter . Fit it into the pan and cut off the excess dough, following the directions on page 1 3 3 . Refrigerate the pastry shell while you prepare the filling.

In a sieve or colander wash the blackberries under cold running water, removing the stems and discarding any fruit that is badly blemished. Spread the berries on paper towels and pat them completely dry.

In a deep bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the 2 tablespoons of cold water. Add the berries and the lemon juice and with a rubber spatula toss the berries lightly about to coat them thoroughly. Pour the contents of the bowl into the pastry shell, spread the berries out evenly and dot the top with the bits of butter.

Preheat the oven to 4 5 0 ° . Roll out the other half of refrigerated pastry on a lightly floured surface, lifting and turning it after each rolling to make a rough rectangle about 1 2 inches long, 9 inches wide and Ys inch thick. With a plain or fluted pastry wheel, or a small, sharp knife, cut the dough lengthwise into 1 8 strips, each Y2 inch wide.

To make the lattice topping, center one strip across the middle of the pie. Arrange four strips on each side of it, laying them all parallel and spacing them about Y2 inch apart. Turn the pie and, in similar fashion, arrange nine more strips at right angles ( or diagonally ) to the first series. With a pastry brush dipped in cold water, lightly moisten the ends of the strips at the point where they meet the bottom pastry shell. Trim the excess off the strips and crimp them firmly in place with your fingers or the tines of a fork.

Bake the pie in the center of the oven for 1 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to 3 5 0 o and bake 2 5 to 3 0 minutes longer, or until golden brown.

1 40

Raspberry Pie


GRAHAM-CRACKER CRUST

1 Y:z cups fresh crumbs made from graham crackers pulverized in a blender or wrapped in wax paper and finely crushed with a rolling pin

Y:z cup walnuts, pulverized in a

blender or with a nut grinder or mortar and pestle

1 tablespoon sugar Y-1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 4 tablespoons butter, softened and

cut into Y:z -inch bits

Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 ° . Combine the graham-cracker crumbs, walnuts, sugar and cinnamon in a deep bowl and mix well . Add the butter bits and, with your fingers, rub the crumb mixture and fat until they resemble moist coarse meal . Press the mixture smoothly and evenly into the bottom and against the sides of a 9-inch pie pan. Then bake in the middle of the oven for 8 to 1 0 minutes, or until the crust is firm to the touch and delicately browned. Remove the pan from the oven and let the crust cool to room temperature.

RASPBERRY FILLING

1 envelope unflavored gelatin � cup cold water 2Y:z cups fresh raspberries, or

substitute 2 ten-ounce packages frozen raspberries, thoroughly defrosted and drained

1 teaspoon vanilla extract 6 ounces cream cheese, softened Y3 cup confectioners' sugar 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon

j uice % cup heavy cream, chilled

Meanwhile, prepare the raspberry filling in the following fashion : Sprinkle the gelatin into a heatproof measuring cup or small bowl containing the � cup cold water. When the gelatin has softened for 2 or 3

minutes, set the cup in a small pan of simmering water and stir over low heat until the gelatin dissolves completely. Remove the pan from the heat but leave the cup in the water to keep the gelatin fluid.

With the back of a large spoon, puree the raspberries through a fine sieve into a small mixing bowl . Stir in the vanilla extract and set aside. In a deep bowl, cream the cream cheese and confectioners' sugar together, beating and mashing them against the sides of the bowl with the back of a spoon until they are light and fluffy.

Add the raspberry puree to the cream-cheese mixture and beat them vigorously together with a rotary or electric beater. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the

Continued on next page 141

lemon j uice, and the gelatin . Pour in % cup of cream and beat vigorously until the mixture is smooth and no trace of the cream remains. Taste and add more lemon j uice if desired . Pour the filling into the cooled crust, spreading it and smoothing the top with the spatula. Cover loosely with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or until the filling is firm to the touch.

CREAM TOPPING

1 cup heavy cream, chilled 1 tablespoon sugar � cup whole fresh raspberries, or

substitute defrosted drained frozen raspberries, for garnish ( optional )

Just before serving, prepare the topping. Whip 1 cup of heavy cream in a chilled bowl until it forms soft peaks . Sprinkle in the tablespoon of sugar and continue to beat until the cream is stiff enough to stand in unwavering peaks on the beater. Spread the whipped cream evenly over the pie, creating decorative swirls with the tip of the knife or spatula. If you like, arrange whole fresh or defrosted frozen raspberries on top .

Chop Suey Dessert Sauce

To make about 1 � cups

% cup sugar 1 � cups water � teaspoon red food coloring � cup coarsely chopped pitted

dates � cup coarsely chopped dried figs � cup coarsely chopped walnuts

Combine the sugar and water in a 1 - to 2-quart enameled or stainlesssteel saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Cook briskly, uncovered, until the syrup reaches a temperature of 2 20 ° on a candy thermometer. Stir in the food coloring.

Combine the dates, figs and walnuts in a bowl, pour in the hot syrup, and stir until all the pieces are evenly moistened. Spoon the sauce into a j ar equipped with a tight-fitting lid. Cover and store at room temperature. The sauce will keep up to 3 weeks . Serve it with ice cream.

142

�cipe Index NOTE : Size, weight and material are specified for pans in the recipes because they affect cooking results . A pan should be j ust large enough to hold i ts contents comfortably. Heavy pans heat slowly and cook food at a constant rate. Aluminum and cast iron conduct heat well but may discolor foods containing egg yolks, wine, vinegar or lemon . Enamelware is a fairly poor conductor of heat . Many recipes therefore recommend stainless steel or enameled cast iron, which do not have these faults.

Soups and Appetizers Bean chowder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Cold lentil soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Corn and clam chowder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Dungeness crabmeat bisque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Marinated fiddlehead ferns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Marinated mushrooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Marinated oysters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Mushroom-and-potato soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Shad-roe pate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Spinach soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Salads Blue-cheese salad dressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 Great Northern bean salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 5

Green bean salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2

King crab salad ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 4

Lentil salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0

Mayonnai se . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1

Oriental salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 Potato salad with bacon bits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3

Shellfish Corn and clam souffle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8 Deviled Dungeness crab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6 Deviled oysters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 H o t crab sandwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7 Mignonette sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 Oysters meuniere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Oyster pan roast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Razor-clam cakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9

Remoulade sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Spicy tomato sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2

Fish Baked stuffed salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Barbecued lingcod with Cheddar . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Broiled walleyed pike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2 Cucumber and sour-cream sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 5

Deep-fried halibut cheeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Deep-fried smelts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Fried trout with bacon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Halibut steaks stuffed with tomato sauce . . . . . . 23 Laksloda ( salmon and potato casserole) . . . . . . . 35

Lingcod with garlic and tomatoes . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 1 Molded salmon with cucumber sauce . . . . . . . . 3 6 Pan-fried trout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 8

Pickled salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Rockfish Espaiiol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Salmon poached in cider . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Seafood stew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Shad-roe croquettes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Shrimp-stuffed baked pike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Smoked sablefish nuggets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Trout in aspic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Poultry and Game Birds Broiled chicken with mushroom sauce . . . . . . . . 44 Chicken and caraway seeds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

143

Frosted chicken breasts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 5 Oatmeal pancakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 1 Grouse with brandied orange stuffing . . . . . . . . 5 2 Potato rolls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 2

Individual turkey hash ovals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Shrove Tuesday buns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Pheasant and apples with sour-cream sauce . . . . 47 Sourdough pancakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

Pheasant pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Sourdough rolls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

Roast quail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3 Sourdough starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

Wild-rice-stuffed quail with cream-and-morel Sourdough white bread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88

sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Spaetzle ( tiny dumplings with

Meat fried croutons ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 3

Swedish cherry twist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 2

Braised lamb shoulder with green beans . . . . . . 63 Buffalo roast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Pickles and Preserves Cold spiced beef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Apricot and pineapple jam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 2

Elk meatballs in sour cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 3 Carrot pickles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 7

Meat loaf with bacon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Corn relish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108

Oxtail stew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Cranberry ketchup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 0

Pork sausages in sour cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 5 How t o prepare and seal canning j ars . . . . . . . . 1 0 6

Potato sausage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Pear honey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 3

Roast leg of venison . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 2 Pickled onions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 09

Smothered reindeer steaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Pickled prunes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

Spareribs and sauerkraut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Plum ketchup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 1

Stewed rabbit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Raspberry vinegar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109

Stuffed spareribs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 8 Rhubarb-ginger j am . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 2 Swedish meatballs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Spiced plums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 0 Swedish pot roast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Tomato marmalade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Swiss steak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

Veal steaks with apple rings in cream . . . . . . . . 62 Desserts Veal stew with dumplings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Blackberry pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Venison mincemeat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 1 Blueberry roll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 7 Venison sauerbraten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Chop suey dessert sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142

Vegetables Custard angel cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 2

Dreams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 6 Baked mushroom caps with fish stuffing . . . . . . 79 Filbert applesauce cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 4 Baked stuffed acorn squash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5 Fi lbert macaroons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 0 Basque potatoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 7 Fresh strawberry p i e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 8 Country baked beans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 1 Ginger cookies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 19

Green-tomato pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 3 Huckleberry cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 9 Mashed turnips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . : . . . . . 74 Krumkaker ( pastry cones fil led with Mushroom croquettes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 candied whipped cream ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 8 Spinach ring with cheese sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 4 Marble spice cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 26

Stuffed onions . . . . . : . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Professor' s cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 5

Tomato-cheese pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 2 Prune p i e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 7 Wild rice with mushrooms and almonds . . . . . . 86 Raspberry pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 4 1

Yellow rice with cold fruit Rhubarb custard pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 5 and curry sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Rhubarb ring with strawberries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 5

Bread and Pancakes Royal rhubarb cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 3 Rye cookies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 1

Apple muffins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 1 Short-crust pastry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 3

Black walnut angel bread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 5 Sour-cherry pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 9

Blueberry coffee ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Spritz cookies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 20

Cheddar pennies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Strawberry frango . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 4

Cheese bread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Vienna sticks . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 2

Cinnamon wreath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 3 Vfnarterta ( Vienna torte ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 0

Cream biscuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 6 Vinegar pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 36

Fried cornmeal squares . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Whipped-cream cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 28

Lefse ( flat potato breads ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 5 Wined pears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 6

Illustrations b y Gloria duBouchet

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american cooking_ the northwest - time-life foods of the world recipes - unknown

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