all talk - chicago readermalatia says he wants to find a place for “every single person on...
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Malatia says he wants to find aplace for “every single person onstaff ” before anyone new is hired.Over the next six weeks they’ll devel-op a budget to present to the board,which could still scuttle the plan.Though this has to be a more expen-sive option than an all-music station,he says it might be just as manage-able if the Web component becomes amajor source of content. Malatiadoesn’t know of any existing modelsfor the whole package, and says heexpects that as they experiment withthese ideas they may “morph intosomething a little different.” He saysthe change of heart was evolutionary,driven by the “melting away of publicservice media around us” throughmergers and disinvestment. “As we
care, the loss of his Sunday afternoongig comes at a particularly bad time.“I’m 81, too old to go out and humblyask someone to hire a dinosaur,” hesays. “I’ve given this a lot of thought.I think I’ll put together some lec-tures. But if you know anybody thatneeds a good jazz program. . . .”
Hizzoner Would ApproveWhy should ticket brokers be the onlyones to benefit? Prop Thtr’s produc-tion of Neil Giuntoli’s Hizzoner is ahit, and Prop is raising the price from$25 to $32, effective May 1. DirectorStefan Brun says the addition of a Saturday matinee means they haveto feed cast and crew. The show’s in an open run. v
The Business
W hen Chicago Public Radiogeneral manager ToreyMalatia announced plans last
summer to split WBEZ programminginto two streams—talk on 91.5, musicon 89.5—he made a point of leavinghimself some wiggle room. Last weekhe not only wiggled but did a majorflip, announcing a change in plans thatapparently came as a surprise even tomany on his staff. The new plan, tenta-tively scheduled to go into effect earlynext year, calls for dumping music pro-grams entirely and turning WBEW intoa second talk station. In a related move,longtime WBEZ music director ChrisHeim was let go on April 4, her posi-tion eliminated. (Heim couldn’t bereached for comment.) Tony Sarabiawill replace her as host of Passport forthe next few months. Malatia says theremaining music staff will be reas-signed to public affairs or asked to helpdevelop the new programming.
WBEW, the Chesterton outpostacquired by CPR over three years ago,is about to get a wattage boost that’llexpand its broadcast to nearly theentire Chicago area. The station isnow being envisioned as a “multime-dia service” intended to snare ayounger and more diverse audience.Malatia says WBEZ will continue todo interviews with local musicians onshows like Eight Forty-Eight, andWBEW will frequently play full cuts assegments within its public affairs-and-culture format, but neither will offer a“consistent stream of music, no placewhere you can go and hear music for ahalf hour at a stretch.” Shows that willdisappear include local productionslike Comin’ Home, Encanto Latino,and Jazz with Dick Buckley and syndi-cated programs including AfropopWorldwide and Blues Before Sunrise.
The new 89.5 will largely emanatefrom the Navy Pier studios—which arebeing remodeled to accommodate anewspaper-style city desk—but will alsomake use of community bureaus in theChicago area and Chesterton, eachstaffed with a reporter and/or a produc-er. Aimed at people who aren’t interest-ed in “long-form network-based discus-sions,” the programming will have a localfocus. “It won’t be civic journalism,” hesays, “but it will have elements of that—the firsthand view of the communitythrough the eyes of the community.”
Segments will be “mixed up” so you get asense “in a short period of time of awhole bunch of things happening.” Hesays that’s the kind of pacing and varietynontraditional public radio listeners areused to, “what they hear when they go to[commercial] stations or to television orthe Internet—one Web site after anoth-er, rapid movement.” There’ll be a sepa-rate Web site intended to feed the newstream, where people could be “talkingabout suggested segments or ideas, oreven producing audio that we might beable to work with them on.” If the plan issuccessful, he says, 89.5 will be so dis-tinctive from 91.5 that “people willstumble upon it and wonder what this is and who’s behind it. I don’t thinkthey’ll have a clue that it’s a ChicagoPublic Radio product.”
looked at the highest and best use ofthis new resource,” he says, “it becameclear to us that while doing musicserves many wonderful purposes,what’s needed now is a place wherepeople can be encouraged to thinkabout making change and can faceissues that divide us as a community.”
Dick Buckley, who’s been onWBEZ for nearly 30 years as an inde-pendent contractor and on theChicago airwaves since 1956, saidlast weekend all he knows is what heread in the paper: “They haven’t dis-cussed word one with me. But I’vefound during all the years I’ve spentin radio, once the big decision ismade, nothing will change it.” ForBuckley, who’s recovering from sur-gery and whose wife is in assisted
All TalkChicago Public Radio isn’t just ditching its plans for an all-music station—it’s ditching music programs altogether.
MIR
EYA
ACI
ERTO
Torey Malatia
By Deanna Isaacs
2 CHICAGO READER | APRIL 14, 2006 | SECTION TWO
CHICAGO READER | APRIL 14, 2006 | SECTION TWO 3
Ladies andGentlemen, Your Top 50The best of the best, as determined byReader Restaurant Raters’ overall scores
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What’s in it for you? For one, anytimeyou file a report, you’ll be entered into abimonthly drawing to win $100 toward din-ner at the restaurant of your choice. Andwe host parties and tastings exclusively forRaters. But mostly what you get is the sat-isfaction of helping your fellow Chicagoansanswer that most pressing question:“Where do you want to eat?” To join us, goto chicagoreader.com/rrr/signup.
A Tavola2148 W. Chicago | 773-276-7567
F 8.5 | S 8.8 | A 7.8 | $$$ (17 REPORTS)ITALIAN | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSEDSUNDAY
rrr A Tavola is the sort of place you couldwalk past a hundred times and nevernotice. There isn’t a sign in front, only therestaurant’s name etched in the frostedglass of a front window. The dining room,on the first floor of a converted house inUkrainian Village, is dimly lit and intimate,with only nine tables total. The menu isequally tiny, enough so that strict vegetari-ans will have a difficult time making themost of it. I went with the halibut, lightly
dusted with seasoned flour and panfried,accompanied by a lemon and caper sauce—simple, but perfectly moist and light. Of thethree appetizers on the menu, the comboof grilled portobello and sauteed oystermushrooms stood out—the flavor was sur-prisingly complex. There are also threesmall pasta dishes, including the bestgnocchi I’ve ever had, swimming in sagebutter and topped with fried sage leaves.The “vanilla-scented” panna cotta (sorry,but that’s a descriptor best left to candles)I had for dessert looked like flan and tastedlike marshmallow. Fortunately, I likemarshmallows. I’m also one who believesthere are few more wonderful things you
can do to food than bake it with a crispcrust of Parmesan cheese, which is why thepolenta, thick and gooey, may have beenmy favorite. There was one bite left at theend of the night, and I seriously thoughtabout having it wrapped up. David Wilcox
Alinea1723 N. Halsted | 312-867-0110
F 10.0 | S 9.7 | A 8.3 | $$$$ (6 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER:SUNDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSEDMONDAY-TUESDAY
rrr Discreetly located in a town house spit-ting distance from chef Grant Achatz’s first
employer, Charlie Trotter, Alinea is markedonly by a valet’s sandwich board at the curb.Inside, a dining room and glass-walledkitchen share the first floor; up a set of glassstairs covered by metal mesh mats are twomore small, luxuriously spare dining rooms.The menu has changed since I went there,but the concept remains the same: prix fixetasting menus of experimental cuisine in 12($125) or a daunting 24 ($175) courses; winepairings add to the bill. Achatz’s initial offer-ings included bacon mounted on a trapezeand the by-now-notorious PB&J amuse—apeeled grape slathered with peanut butter,wrapped in brioche, and served, with stem,atop a wicked-looking wire contraption. His
current menu opens with Hot Potato, a tinybowl of chilled potato soup with a pin bear-ing a chunk of hot potato, Parmesan, butter,and a slice of black truffle; to eat it you slidethe pin out so the potato and truffle dropinto the soup, then slurp it as you would anoyster. Lamb comes under a veil of eucalyp-tus, foie gras with hibiscus over a small bowlof blueberry soda, duck with a pillow of“mace air.” The Alinea experience remainstightly controlled, with specific instructionsas to how certain dishes should be eaten.Under less polished conditions this would beannoyingly pretentious, but the soothing rit-uals of fine dining can take the edge off theedgiest of cuisines. Martha Bayne
RestaurantsListings are excerpted from the Reader Restaurant Finder, an onlinedatabase of more than 3,000 Chicago-area restaurants. Restaurantsare rated by more than 2,200 Reader Restaurant Raters, who feedus information and comments on their dining experiences. Webratings are updated daily; print listings reflect the most currentinformation available at publication time. Reviews are written by
Reader staff and contributors and (where noted) individual Raters.Though reviewers try to reflect the Restaurant Raters’ input,reviews should be considered one person’s opinion; the collectiveRaters’ opinions are best expressed in the numbers. The completelistings and information on how to become a Reader RestaurantRater are available at www.chicagoreader.com/restaurantfinder.
Tank Sushi, Hot Doug's, Spiaggia
A. J
ACKS
ON
4 CHICAGO READER | APRIL 14, 2006 | SECTION TWO
Aria200 N. Columbus | 312-444-9494
F 9.0 | S 9.1 | A 8.0 | $$$$ (7 REPORTS)GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | BREAKFAST, LUNCH,DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY &SATURDAY TILL 11
rrr Noah Bekofsky, who trained at theCulinary Institute of America, did a stint atthe Kapalua Bay Hotel in Maui, and hebrings a Hawaiian influence to his menuhere with dishes like curried chicken-and-pork lumpia (cigarlike rolls with mangovinaigrette and a sweet-and-sour dippingsauce) and a cold starter of Hawaiian tunapoke (sashimi-grade tuna tartare drizzledwith soy and toasted sesame oil). There area few Asian dishes, like duck-and-lobsterchow mein and roasted black cod glazedwith a sweet mirin soy sauce and servedwith mashed snap peas. The aromatic veg-etable curry, accompanied by jasmine ricewith almonds and currants, can be orderedas an appetizer portion or an entree. Themenu’s obligatory Chicago Cuts sectionlists supersize steaks and chops, all servedwith potted onions and portobellos. Youget a plate of naan fresh from a tandoorioven when you sit down, plus four dippingsauces. The adjacent bar serves smallplates, a large array of martinis, and anextensive global wine list the staff seemsto have mastered. Laura Levy Shatkin
Art of Pizza3033 N. Ashland | 773-327-5600
F 8.3 | S 6.8 | A 3.5 | $ (5 REPORTS)PIZZA, ITALIAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS |RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | BYO
rrr I’m not usually a fan of pan pizza—I’veencountered too many gummy, half-rawbottom crusts—but the Art of Pizza’s pancrust is crisp and buttery, with only a bit ofchewiness. Even more impressive: toppingshere aren’t superfluously greasy. The menuforgoes froufrou California-style pies infavor of specialties such as “Art’s MeatyDelight” (sausage, bacon, ground beef,pepperoni, and sliced beef). Reasonablypriced subs, sandwiches, ribs, chicken, andpasta dishes are also available, along withprepackaged salads and cake slices for car-ryout. The ambience isn’t much, but thissmall storefront is clean and friendly, andits strip-mall location makes a convenientstop-off if you’re hitting the Jewel acrossthe street. Anne Ford
Arun’s4156 N. Kedzie | 773-539-1909
F 9.1 | S 9.3 | A 8.0 | $$$$$ (16 REPORTS)THAI, ASIAN | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY
rrr I’ll admit the most oveRRRated Thairestaurant on the planet is a fine-diningplayer—service is well oiled and profession-al, the surroundings are a fantasia of lyser-gic folk art, and the food is prepared by peo-ple who know how to cook. But for the priceof the degustation with wine pairings atArun’s you could put together five more sur-prising, authentic, and delicious ones atSpoon Thai, TAC Quick, Siam’s House, orSticky Rice. If you can’t be convinced of that,$85 and your willing suspension of disbeliefgets you 12 courses of ArunSampanthavivat’s exquisitely plated butdomesticated versions of his homeland’scuisine. While the staff makes the perfuncto-ry effort of accommodating culinary prefer-ences and taboos, it seems diners are not tobe trusted with the more aggressivelyspiced and funkier flavors of Thai cuisine—even if they ask. The event begins with sixappetizer courses, in which every wonderfuldetail seems to be unbalanced by an inap-propriate one: maybe a one-bite salad
arrives perched on a perfectly shaped betelnut leaf, which imparts an earthier flavorthan the usual lettuce, but then an oysterpancake will be drizzled with Sriracha, theHeinz ketchup of the Far East. Appetizersare followed by four main courses served allat once, family style, many of which overrelyon the sweet end of the Thai spectrum; fat,fresh prawns with an unusual and tangypurple mountain fern might come with alobster Willy Wonka’d by a sweet, brown,cornstarchy sauce more suited to Chinesetakeout. On my most recent visit the dishthat was perhaps the least authentic was myfavorite—a fist-size hunk of tender pot roastin green curry drizzled with coconut cream.Given the notorious challenges in pairingThai food with the grape, someone at Arun’sdoes a really good job matching things up.Then again, the delicate Brut LaurentPerrier that came with crispy fried pike onchard, bean sprouts, and sweet-and-sourrhubarb would get its ass kicked by some-thing like a real papaya salad with chiles anddried shrimp. Any fine-dining experience inthis price range requires more than a fewwows over 12 courses. The only one I recallwas my first glance of the amazing muraldepicting struggle between good and evil—eight months in the making—thatSampanthavivat’s brother was painting inthe main dining room. Mike Sula
Avenues108 E. Superior | 312-573-6754
F 9.0 | S 9.0 | A 9.0 | $$$$$ (6 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER:TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY-MONDAY
rrr Yes, the “foielipop” is still on themenu. A dense, sweet, creamy disk of foiegras impaled on a stick and coated with PopRocks that send flavor coursing straight toyour cerebral cortex, it’s the signatureshowstopper in one of chef Graham ElliotBowles’s five ambitious tasting menus. It’shard when something this flamboyant andjust plain trippy turns up in the secondcourse—nothing else quite matches it forsheer entertainment value. But severalother dishes actually did outshine the littlegray lolly. Delicately roasted squab, for one,came dressed with a dark, smoky baconand laurel-scented kalamata olive tape-nade. Paper-thin rounds of slightly gamykangaroo carpaccio, served with tiny “noo-dles” made of cantaloupe and cucumber,lime caramel, and an aromatic eucalyptusfoam, were another winner. But despite allthe experimentation Bowles has becomefamous for, my friend and I voted a simplebeef tenderloin best in show: velvety andrare at its core, it was ever-so-slightlycharred and dusted with sea salt. Not everydish made the finals: a single seared scallopover a sunchoke pudding was oddly mono-chromatic, and the mild flavors in a quintetof rabbit loin, leg, rillette, bacon, and kid-ney were no match for the exquisitely fussypresentation. But my only real complaint iswith the service. While our lead waiter wasassured and impeccably helpful, the young,apparently inexperienced bench wasn’tnearly as polished. Still, this graciousPeninsula Hotel dining room well deservesthe buckets of praise heaped on it sinceBowles, a vet of Trotter’s and Tru, took overtwo years ago. Martha Bayne
Blackbird619 W. Randolph | 312-715-0708
F 9.2 | S 8.5 | A 6.8 | $$$ (20 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | LUNCH:MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY |CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY &SATURDAY TILL 11:30
rrr Blackbird’s design gimmickry gives it arapidly dating sense of boomtime 90s hip-
Restaurants
Allen’s: The New American Cafe217 W. Huron | 312-587-9600
F 9.2 | S 8.6 | A 7.8 | $$$$ (13 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | LUNCH:MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY |CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY &SATURDAY TILL 11
rrr Chef Allen Sternweiler presents a sea-sonal menu, using local farm productswhenever possible and only the freshestseafood. On one visit a firm white-fleshedfish called escolar came in a lusciouschampagne butter with wild ramps, andmango-jicama salsa topped some nicelybrowned crab cakes. A trio of rabbitincludes a tender sauteed loin, a braisedleg, and sausage. Other appealing optionsinclude sauteed walleye over duck confitwith smoked bacon and wild mushroomhash, a roast pork loin with pork bellyhash, and a grilled beef fillet served with ablue cheese potato gratin. Entree pricesaverage in the high 20s (the fillet is $40);at lunch, entrees, salads, and burgers runin the midteens. Laura Levy Shatkin
CHICAGO READER | APRIL 14, 2006 | SECTION TWO 5
sterism. There are the monogrammed dis-posable restroom washcloths. There’s thecareful menu notation that waitstaff wearJoseph Abboud (and are therefore smarterlooking than 80 percent of any given seat-ing). And then there’s the sterile white-and-steel space that would make a lab rat feelat home. On the other hand, for fine diningwith a rotation of top-notch seasonal ingre-dients, served by a crack cadre of skilledfood-service ninjas who would die for yoursmallest whim, chef Paul Kahan is still atthe top of the game. Don’t do what I did lasttime, succumbing to my basest instinctsand ordering every course that had somesort of cured pork product in it. By the timeI’d finished my endive salad with poachedegg and pancetta, seared diver scallopswith guanciale, and grilled pork chop withbraised pork belly, summer truffles, andfigs, my alimentary canal felt like theBonneville Salt Flats, and my plan to finishwith the chocolate semifreddo with wafflesand bacon was foiled. The salad, scallops,and pig-part duo are old favorites atBlackbird, varying seasonally, so you owe itto yourself, and to Kahan’s sense of bal-
ance, to branch out: give that west-coastmussel soup with saffron, garlic, and basil aslurp or try the sauteed skate wing andjonah crab with blood oranges, parsnips,and brown butter. Come to think of itthere’s a lot of fruit showing up with themeat: suckling pig with grapes, quail withapple, lamb with plums, leading to furtherchallenges in the area of wine selection,sometimes met by the guidance of yourwaiter, sometimes not. Mike Sula
Boka1729 N. Halsted | 312-337-6070
F 9.3 | S 8.5 | A 8.7 | $$$ (22 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, SMALLPLATES | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE:FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11
rrr This trendy restaurant has a frontlounge area that doubles as an extra diningroom on busy nights; it’s separated from themain room by a long, frequently packed bar.But the ambitious menu by chef GiuseppeScurato (Postrio, Spago, MK) features unpre-tentious and nicely executed small and largeplates like steamed mussels in saffron-boni-
to broth, pan-roasted maple-leaf duckbreast with a wild-mushroom ragout, andglazed Atlantic salmon with shiitakes, napacabbage, snow peas, bean curd, and atamari-truffle sauce. About 20 wines arepoured by the glass and more than 100 areavailable by the bottle. Laura Levy Shatkin
Cafe Absinthe1954 W. North | 773-278-4488
F 8.7 | S 8.0 | A 7.7 | $$$ (15 REPORTS)GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS
rrr Unlike many of the trendy boites inWicker Park, Cafe Absinthe has secured aniche as a classic neighborhood restaurantthrough an unpretentious combination ofwell-executed food and relaxed yet expertservice. We began with the starter ofstuffed calamari on a bed of nicely dressedgreens, followed by some garlic-potatosoup, which started out smooth but fin-ished with a mild kick. For main coursesmy friend had the rack of lamb and Ienjoyed the seared scallops atop creamymashed potatoes garnished with intenselyflavorful mushrooms. Our friendly (flirta-
6 CHICAGO READER | APRIL 14, 2006 | SECTION TWO
tious?) waiter was able to recommend awine that nicely complemented all thesedishes, a 2004 Westrey pinot noir.Dessert—espresso and rich devil’s foodcake with cocoa sorbet and chocolate-cov-ered cherries—sent us into that blissfulcoma haze every indulgent meal shouldend with. Katherine Young
Cafe Matou1846 N. Milwaukee | 773-384-8911
F 8.4 | S 7.6 | A 8.6 | $$$ (17 REPORTS)FRENCH | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY |CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY &SATURDAY TILL 11
rrr This Bucktown storefront has its littleairs: witness the untranslated French pre-amble on the cover of the wine list. But italso has its comforts: woody decor,pressed-tile ceilings, and chairs right out ofyour grandfather’s office. Chef CharlieSocher terms his food “cuisine bour-geoisie”—which is to say French, but for themost part without the usual accompanyingpresumption. The house salad is servedsimply with a light oil, the liver paté is but-tery smooth, and a seafood bourride singswith tarragon. Still, bourgeois or no, it’s allabout the sauces, and on this evening (themenu changes daily) rich duck came with aclassic pinot noir-green peppercorn num-ber handily sopped up with a Jerusalemartichoke puree. Socher offers a three-course dinner Sunday, Tuesday,Wednesday, and Thursday for $22, andevery fourth Wednesday is a “cellar raid”with select bottles of wine for $17. So don’ttake umbrage when the waiter correctsyour pronunciation of paté. Ted Cox
Carlos’429 Temple, Highland Park | 847-432-0770
F 9.7 | S 9.2 | A 9.6 | $$$$$ (5 REPORTS)FRENCH | DINNER: SUNDAY-MONDAY,WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED TUESDAY
rrr Carlos and Debbie Nieto have operat-ed this intimate French dining room inHighland Park for over 20 years. Theatmosphere is regal, with handsome dark-wood trim, richly toned fabrics, and ele-gant porcelain dinnerware. RamiroVelasquez runs the kitchen, dazzlingpatrons with the expertise he gained undersuch powerhouses as Jacky Pluton, DonYamauchi, Eric Aubriot, and Alan Wolf. A lacarte dishes include succulent escargotsbaked in brioche with artichoke hearts,served with a Roquefort-Pernod sauce, andHot and Cold Foie Gras—seared HudsonValley foie gras with grenadine-infusedcaramelized onions and chilled La BelleFarms foie gras on banana bread withvanilla syrup. A seven-course degustationmenu ($90) with optional paired wines($130) is a dining adventure, with appetiz-ers like squab breast served with chestnutfoie gras custard, pea pods, and huckleber-ry gastrique. Entrees include herb-crustedAustralian rack of lamb with vegetablegratin and polenta, and rabbit loinwrapped in prosciutto with purple potatoesand leek spaghettini. (A vegetarian mealwill be prepared upon request.) The ency-clopedic wine list is mostly French but alsooffers American, Australian, and Germanoptions. On Mondays diners can bring theirown wine—there’s no corkage fee—andservers will suggest food pairings from themenu. Laura Levy Shatkin
Catch 3535 W. Wacker | 312-346-3500
F 9.2 | S 8.9 | A 8.4 | $$$$ (9 REPORTS)SEAFOOD | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER:SEVEN DAYS
rrr The crowd is mostly business at thisseafood restaurant nestled inside the LeoBurnett building, and the room is flashy ina late-80s way—oceanscape mural, artdeco fixtures, revolving piano bar. Dishesare prepared with an admirably light touchand often show an Asian influence: soft-shell crab comes with Szechuan glaze,Chilean sea bass with ginger-scallion sauce.The menu’s huge—there are three dozenseafood specials daily—and Raters agreeit’s best experienced on an expenseaccount. Laura Levy Shatkin
Charlie Trotter’s816 W. Armitage | 773-248-6228
F 9.1 | S 8.8 | A 7.8 | $$$$$ (17 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL,GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY-MONDAY
rrr At its best this Lincoln Park landmarkstrokes every human sense. When I dinedthere last the eight-course grand tastingmenu started with salty-sweet Tasmanian
ocean trout with spiky, even saltier hijiki;then there was halibut served with tender,glowing baby asparagus on a bed of supersa-vory turnip puree. The vegetable tastingmenu was often more attention grabbing:the amuse-gueule was a combination ofspongy morels and crisp fiddlehead fernsthat tasted of deep dark dirt and dew, andthe caramelized Maui onion soup with asweet-onion flan at the bottom made oureyes roll back in our heads. Is the food fussy?Yes. Everything is painstakingly constructed:arranged with droplets of onion relish andtiny snips of parsley, the guinea fowl andceleriac looked a bit like Starry Night. All thedesserts were astonishing, but so was thebread—fresh, warm, and chewy, based onvarious grains and in one case Carolina low-country rice, with just the thinnest flavor ofsalt in the crust. The wine degustation iswhat puts the average per-diner cost over$200, and it’s more than worth it. Our mealbegan with a pale Bellini, an indulgence thatset just the right note, then moved on to acrisp Larmandier-Bernier blanc de blancsbrut, a delicate Kruger-Rumpf RieslingKabinett, a Movia pinot nero full of leatherand smoke, and a Bodegas Catena Zapata“Alta” cabernet sauvignon. The meal endedwith an Olivares “Dulce” Monastrell and apetal yellow honeysuckle-flavored Tokaji-
Aszu “5 Puttonyos” Chateau Pajzos thatmade me think about late afternoon sun andshadows sliding through art nouveau build-ings in Budapest. After five happy hours Iwalked into the evening with the scents oflavender and peas and fennel still playing inmy nose. Elizabeth M. Tamny
The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton160 E. Pearson | 312-573-5223
F 9.4 | S 10.0 | A 9.1 | $$$$$ (9 REPORTS)FRENCH | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY;SUNDAY BRUNCH | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE:FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11
rrr It’s nice to know that someone’sremaining firmly rooted in tradition, if forno other reason than to provide a referencepoint for all that reinvention. Former execu-tive sous-chef Mark Payne has stepped upas the Dining Room’s executive chef, andhe’s reworked the menu in a moreEuropean light: butter-mounted, cream-enriched sauces were on nearly every plate,while global influences—blood orange, can-died ginger, and Spanish lomo (smokedpork loin)—were as muted as the facialexpressions of the well-heeled clientele.One can dine a la carte or opt for the chef’sseven-course tasting menu ($105), which isalso offered in a vegetarian option.Portions are generous and rich—almost toorich. We moved from a large hunk of per-fect foie gras to a butter-drenched lobstercourse to a Wagyu brisket with rich borde-laise sauce to an ultracreamy wedge ofRobiola Langhe sheep’s milk cheese. (Ithought it strange and even a bit lazy thatboth the cheese course and the foie gras
Restaurants
Food (F), service (S), and ambience (A) are rated on a scale of 1-10, with 10 representingbest. The dinner-menu price of a typical entree is indicated by dollar signs on thefollowing scale: $=less than $10, $$=$10-$15, $$$=$15-$20, $$$$=$20-$30,$$$$$ =more than $30. Raters also grade the overall dining experience; these scoresare averaged and rs are awarded as follows: rrr=top 10 percent, rrr=top 20percent, rrr=top 30 percent of all rated restaurants in database.
CHICAGO READER | APRIL 14, 2006 | SECTION TWO 7
8 CHICAGO READER | APRIL 14, 2006 | SECTION TWO
were garnished with rhubarb compote.)Highlights were a smoky sunchoke andspring garlic soup, which arrived at exactlythe right temperature, and an ice-cold oys-ter “martini” with beet sorbet and cremefraiche. Dessert came in three parts—astrawberry sorbet, then a giant architectur-al creation featuring chocolate andbananas, and finally petits fours. The DiningRoom offers Chicago’s gold-standardSunday brunch ($60), which is worth theprice just for the pristine seafood andworld-class cheese board. Kristina Meyer
Dorado Restaurant2301 W. Foster | 773-561-3780
F 8.9 | S 8.2 | A 7.7 | $$ (13 REPORTS)MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN,GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | DINNER: SUNDAY,TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPENLATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | BYO
rrr At this Ravenswood restaurant, LuisPerez applies the French bistro cookingtechniques he learned under Jack Jones (aschef de cuisine at Jack’s American Blendand Bistro Marbuzet and sous-chef atDaniel J’s) to the Mexican food his mothercooked when he was growing up. His briefmenu offers unique takes on Mexicanfavorites like roast pork (his version is athick tenderloin, rosy and tender andserved with a guajillo cream sauce) anddelicious combinations like a crunchyalmond-crusted trout laced with satinycoconut cream sauce and caramelized plan-tains, a lovely contrast of earthy and sweet.For dessert there’s one of the richest flansaround and a moist, light tres leches cake.The typical entree is priced in the midteens,and the place is still BYO—consider bringinga light-to-medium-bodied red wine (like apinot noir from Burgundy or Oregon) oreven a full-bodied white (like a Condrieufrom the Rhone Valley or a Riesling fromWachau, Austria). Laura Levy Shatkin
Everest440 S. LaSalle | 312-663-8920
F 9.3 | S 9.7 | A 8.5 | $$$$$ (12 REPORTS)FRENCH | DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSEDSUNDAY-MONDAY
rrr When I told friends I’d be dining atEverest, they all said that it ain’t what itused to be. I was accordingly wary as wemade our way up to the 40th floor of theChicago Stock Exchange on a Friday night.But if the leopard-print carpeting, whitelacquered columns, and brass railingsseemed dated, that impression was quicklydispelled as our dinner got under way witha glass of champagne. The wine list, nowunder sommelier Stephen McGinnis
(Alpana Singh left in the fall), is justlyrenowned for its superior selection ofAlsatians. It also offers an eye-poppingselection of Chateau Lafittes and other top-notch Bordeaux with spectacular prices tomatch. We opted for chef Jean Joho’sseven-course tasting menu with wine pair-ings. Dinner began with an amuse boucheof a mousse-light brandade of cod, a sip ofartichoke soup, and a dab of celeryremoulade festooned with a crispy piece offried fish. The sauce accompanying smoky-flavored roast lobster bore hints of horse-radish, a flavor that came to the fore laterin the form of horseradish-crusted grouper.A single scallop served atop a bed ofshredded cabbage was dressed in a haunt-ingly good sauce featuring melfor, anAlsatian honeyed vinegar, with hints ofbacon and pleasant bursts of caraway. Thecrowning dish, a medallion of venisonserved with tiny portions of spaetzle andred cabbage, was a revelation. This was fol-lowed by an impressive selection of arti-sanal cheeses. Throughout the wine pair-ings, which included classic Alsatian offer-ings such as a Tokay, a Riesling, and a pinotgris as well as a big American zinfandelwith the cheese course, were right on themark. We floated through the desserts on acloud of bliss right up to our after-dinnercoffees offered with a selection of petitsfours. Perhaps Everest is not the most aucourant spot on the scene, and frankly, it’scrazy expensive. But there’s somethingcomfortingly luxe about a classic fine-din-ing experience where two people are seat-ed at a table vast enough for six and whenyou return from the bathroom you findthat some mysterious imp has refoldedyour napkin for you. Kathie Bergquist
Fogo de Chao661 N. LaSalle | 312-932-9330
F 8.5 | S 9.1 | A 7.9 | $$$$ (28 REPORTS)LATIN AMERICAN | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY;DINNER: SEVEN DAYS
rrr The huge industrial space works wellwith the service concept at this Brazilianchurrascaria (steak house): not only isthere plenty of room for the enormouscenter salad bar, but the circulating “gau-chos” (servers dressed in those below-the-knee pants) can glide easily from table totable with their huge metal skewers ofmeat. At this branch of a Sao Paulo chain,the gauchos serve as many helpings as youwant of spit-roasted beef, lamb, pork, andchicken for a set price ($48.50, or $29.50for lunch). You flip a cardboard marker togreen when you want them to approachthe table, red when you’ve got enough onyour plate. You can request a desired
degree of doneness, but with the meatcycling back to the fire after a few cuts,chances are you won’t get anything thatresembles rare (we didn’t, anyhow). Theroom is detailed in granite, slate, and natu-ral-colored stones, and an enormous winerack acts as a divider between the maindining room and the private space in back.Mashed potatoes, fried bananas, polenta,and cheese fries come as sides, but it’shard to give them any attention with all theactivity. Laura Levy Shatkin
Le Francais269 S. Milwaukee, Wheeling | 847-541-7470
F 9.8 | S 8.8 | A 8.8 | $$$$$ (5 REPORTS)FRENCH | LUNCH: TUESDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER:MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY
rrr Chef Roland Liccioni dazzles: on onevisit his perfectly prepared dishes includedcaviar en gelee et foie gras en toast—a tinyporcelain cup of osetra caviar suspended ingelatin and topped with cauliflower creamoccupied one corner of an oversize rectan-gular plate, across from a slice of toastedbrioche covered with creamy chilled foiegras; between them was a bed of micro-greens. While the lobster bisque servedwith the gateau de St. Jacques (scallopcake) was heavily salted, the cucumbersalad that accompanied it alleviated thesalt a bit, and the cake itself was pan-seared to crispy perfection. A moist skin-side-up sea bass fillet was served withpureed eggplant and a refreshing water-cress sauce, with extremely thin strands ofspaetzle tossed across the fish. Liccioni’ssignature duos and trios don’t dominatethe menu as they did at Les Nomades andstill do at Le Lan, although the duo de veaupoche et entrecote age—an ample portionof veal wrapped first in steamed cabbageand then in a thin layer of crispy dough—was served during his first tenure here andmakes a welcome comeback. Sadly, whileLiccioni has brought Le Francais’ food backto its original glory, the artificial flowerarrangement in the entryway is only theworst example of the room’s stilted interiordesign. Laura Levy Shatkin
Green Zebra1460 W. Chicago | 312-243-7100
F 8.9 | S 8.2 | A 7.1 | $$$ (19 REPORTS)SMALL PLATES, VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY,AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER:SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY
rrr It’s been two years since chef ShawnMcClain transformed a dilapidated EastVillage storefront known to me and myneighbors as the “pigeon palace” into asleek haven for vegetarian dining, and for
the most part the kitchen has settled intoa comfortable groove. On a recent visit theseasonally changing menu of generoustasting portions showcased a rainbow ofwinter veggies: roasted beets wrappedaround tiny cylinders of goat cheese; but-ternut squash gnocchi; crispy sweet potatodumplings and water chestnuts in a dan-delion miso broth. A rich parsnip pannacotta served with braised endive, bloodorange wedges, and a few teeny biscuitspacked an amazing amount of flavor, asurprisingly tangy kick following each ini-tially sweet, smooth mouthful. A smallcrock of artichoke cassoulet tucked’chokes, beans, and braised kale beneath abuttery puff pastry crust. A substantialsavory crepe, stuffed full of curriedapples, was a standout, and typical ofGreen Zebra’s playful attitude toward fla-vor—as my friend noted, perhaps half thedishes we tried were sweeter than youraverage entree, while our desserts—brown butter millet cake and a coconutrisotto pudding served with roastedpineapple and marinated avocado (!)—were so nutty and mild you could have ’emfor breakfast. Perhaps unsurprisingly, theonly real misstep was the roasted skatewing, one of two nonvegetarian items onthe menu. The pricey wine list is heavy oncrisp whites and a few lighter, brighterreds. After-dinner options include French-press coffee and some wildly exotic teas,including one that according to the menuwas once harvested by monkeys. Serversare well-informed and helpful, and withthe exception of the small, stoolless bararea I’m still impressed with the numberMcClain and company did on the space, allcool earth tones and warm low lightspunctuated by bursts of greenery reachingfor the sky. Martha Bayne
The Handlebar2311 W. North | 773-384-9546
F 8.4 | S 7.3 | A 7.8 | $ (24 REPORTS)GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC,VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS;SATURDAY AND SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE:FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 1, OTHER NIGHTS TILL11 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED
rrr A group of friends dragged me to theHandlebar for the first time two days afterI moved to Chicago. It was late on a snowyFriday night, and over the course of threehours we ordered practically everythingon the menu, getting riotously drunk onbourbon, tequila, and beer. One couplewound up necking in a dark corner whileanother, completely out of character,played bloody knuckles by the bar. Iwouldn’t say that’s appropriate behavior
for the Handlebar, but it won’t get youkicked out either. A dimly lit cyclist hang-out—the bar stools are made from chromerims, vintage bikes hang from the ceiling,and there are specials for messengers onMondays—it’s a theme restaurant thatdoesn’t feel precious or pretentious in anyway. The food is cheap and vegetarianfriendly: most entrees are under $10, andthe only meat option is fish. The chefsdon’t do anything flashy, but they do a lit-tle bit of everything and do it well. Forappetizers the samosas with tamarindchutney are on par with any you’d find onDevon, and the stuffed mushroom caps—roasted baby ’bellos filled with soysage,pine nuts, and rosemary—are exceptional.The West African ground nut stew, ahearty mix of sweet potato, zucchini, andkale served over brown rice and garnishedwith peanuts and toasted coconut, is tai-lor-made for Chicago winters, as are theblack beans maduro, served with moundsof fried plantain and a slow-burning chipo-tle-tomato sauce. They also do a bang-upjob with comfort food: the short list of seitan and tofu sandwiches come withcoleslaw and a variety of sides, including arespectable vegetarian version of south-ern collard greens and a totally addictivesmoked Gouda mac ’n’ cheese I’ll crave onmy deathbed. David Wilcox
Hot Doug’s3324 N. California | 773-279-9550
F 8.7 | S 8.2 | A 8.2 | $ (11 REPORTS)AMERICAN | LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY| CLOSEDSUNDAY | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | CASHONLY
rrr Last year Doug Sohn, the CrownPrince of Tube Steak, reopened his wildlysuccessful emporium along a barrenstretch of California Avenue, and mostafternoons people still line up out the doorfor his Polishes, brats, Thuringers,andouille sausages, and Chicago-styledogs, dressed and cooked to customerpreference—whether char-grilled, deep-fried, steamed, or fried then grilled. Thereare daily gourmet specials and a “game ofthe week” sausage—gator, boar, rat-tlesnake, rabbit, duck, or kangaroo. Fridaysand Saturdays fresh-cut fries are cooked induck fat, and the only request Sohn willrefuse is to smother them in cheese sauce.Sausage-wise he’s now expanded, offeringplated dishes like cassoulet and sausagechili as well. Sohn has duplicated the goofydecor of the old place, chockablock withElvibilia and hot-dog-related kitsch. Thenew space is roomier, with outdoor seatingin warm weather, and there’s plenty ofstreet parking. Mike Sula
Restaurants
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CHICAGO READER | APRIL 14, 2006 | SECTION TWO 9
Kaze Sushi2032 W. Roscoe | 773-327-4860
F 8.4 | S 9.3 | A 8.9 | $$ (9 REPORTS)ASIAN, JAPANESE | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS
rrr The menu at Kaze, a Roscoe Villagesushi place whose name is Japanese forwind, changes with the seasons. Executivechef Macku Chan (Heat) strives for original-ity, but often at the price of clarity andtaste. Pieces of amberjack, snapper, andsalmon were topped with the likes of foiegras, pine nuts, and banana peppers; theseafood chowder was topped with toastedmarshmallows. There’s a place for sweet-ness in Japanese food, but in moderation:when a beautiful fillet of Atlantic black codcomes on a perfectly cooked bed of babybok choy, does it need to be dressed withbittersweet chocolate and garnished withalmond crunch and raspberries? WhenChan restrains his overactive imaginationhe excels: his individual nigiri are fresh ascan be and his maki expertly rolled. Theroom is green and gold and furnished withplush Louis XIV-style chairs. There’s ashimmering backlit sushi bar with freshgrass growing around the edges and asoothing Japanese rock garden in the frontlounge. Laura Levy Shatkin
Kevin9 W. Hubbard | 312-595-0055
F 9.0 | S 8.6 | A 8.2 | $$$$ (18 REPORTS)ASIAN, GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | LUNCH:MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY |CLOSED SUNDAY
rrr There’s something faintly nostalgicabout Asian fusion cuisine, which flourishedduring the late 20th century at places likeYoshi’s, where Kevin Shikami once worked.He carries the torch at his eponymousrestaurant with appetizers like his signaturetuna tartare and a luscious moo shu pan-cake filled with oxtail and foie gras, the for-bidden organ. With this megacaloric starterwe had an outstanding glass of wine: aGraEagle Red Wing with an unexpectedlybuttery nose and deep, tangy herbal notes(one glass is a stiff $14). Many fungi foundtheir way onto our plates, as did ginger, staranise, and other things Asian. I had the porkthree ways; loin, belly, and shoulder ploppedatop fiercely red and smoky Bhutanese rice.My partner had the duck three ways—breast,confit, and duck prosciutto mixed withcubed root vegetables and goat cheese.After all this great grub a fitting finale was amodest sorbet done—how else?—three ways(mango, cherry, and white peach). Our serv-er was friendly, attentive, and clueless; theroom, with its earth tones and brushedmetal curves, is gorgeous. David Hammond
Le Lan749 N. Clark | 312-280-9100
F 9.3 | S 9.3 | A 9.0 | $$$ (6 REPORTS)ASIAN, VIETNAMESE, FRENCH | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE:FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11
rrr The dream team—Roland Liccioni of LeFrancais and Arun Sampanthavivat ofArun’s—collaborated on this French-Asiandestination in River North. The room,designed in large part by Sampanthavivat,has jade tile floors, a dark walnut bar, and a
mural of an elaborate dragon, painted byArun’s brother Anawat, on the back wall. Allthe food is created with exquisite attentionto detail: a sweet corn soup is poured onto afresh oyster, then topped with heirloomtomato salad; a banh cuon (dumpling) isfilled with tender organic pork and servedwith fresh herbs and nuoc cham (fish sauce).Further down the menu are dishes likegrilled bass with water chestnuts, wild mush-rooms, bulgar, grapefruit, and heart of palmsalad, and an Asian-spiced beef tenderloin ina star anise and red wine sauce, served withbeans, bok choy, and red and black quinoa.Desserts like chocolate banana tart andlemon verbena ice cream are worth savingroom for. Laura Levy Shatkin
Lula Cafe2537 N. Kedzie | 773-489-9554
F 8.5 | S 7.5 | A 7.8 | $ (40 REPORTS)GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | BREAKFAST, LUNCH,DINNER: SUNDAY, MONDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH |CLOSED TUESDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY &SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED
rrr At this point I’ve taken dozens of people
to Lula Cafe, and I don’t say this lightly: itmay be the best neighborhood restaurant inChicago. One side of the menu is dedicatedto cheap, surprising, delicious entrees in the$6-$12 range, like the Moroccan tagine:warm cinnamony chickpea stew with chunksof sweet potato over couscous, with freshgreens strewn on top. The Tineka sandwichis—of all things—a spicy peanut butter sand-wich with cukes and red onion and lots ofother veggies, plus something they call“Indonesian sweet soy sauce.” There’s beetbruschetta, and peanut sesame noodles, anda great roast turkey sandwich. Appetizersinclude a shiitake-spinach quesadilla andvegetarian maki. Then there’s a more expen-sive menu ($12-$24), as if the owners justthought, “What the hell, this’ll be fun too.”These items change constantly but haveincluded a scallops appetizer that makesvegetarians very sad to be vegetarians, aroast leg of lamb with sherry-braised missionfigs and cippolini onions, and an ocean troutserved with brandade-stuffed peppers. Ibrought a friend who’s a professional chef inNew York, and he stuck around for hours toorder nearly everything on the menu. Andthen we came back the next night. Ira Glass
Manny’s Coffee Shop & Deli1141 S. Jefferson | 312-939-2855
F 8.5 | S 7.6 | A 6.4 | $ (5 REPORTS)AMERICAN, KOSHER/JEWISH/DELI | BREAKFAST,LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY |RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED
rrr Some things are never as good as theyused to be. The delis of yesteryear werepalaces, serving sliced meat a mile high for$1.98. Now? At Manny’s the latkes are verygood, light and crisp, fluffy and flavorful—you don’t need a side of apple sauce toenjoy. But you should have had them before!They were potato ambrosia, splendor in thegrease. And these prices: $9.95 for a sand-wich in a cafeteria? A strange one too:instead of paying at the end of the line likeG-d intended, you pay on the way out, afteryou eat. But Manny’s has been here since1942, and they know what they’re doing.They serve brisket, roast beef, corned beef,very lean, and pastrami, fatty in all the rightplaces, piled high on rye. Too high! How areyou supposed to eat all this? So share or geta doggie bag. What else are you going toorder at a place like Manny’s—a veggie burg-er? And look, they have all the condiments
right on the table, mustard in both colors,your salt, your pepper, sugar and ketchup, anapkin holder, very useful. Years ago all thebig shots ate here; now it’s all hoi polloi. Butyou can still get a cigar at the register, apiece of candy, some gum, your choice ofTums or Rolaids. See, at Manny’s they knowwhat they’re doing. Jeffrey Felshman
Merlo Ristorante2638 N. Lincoln | 773-529-0747
F 7.8 | S 7.6 | A 8.2 | $$$ (11 REPORTS)ITALIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS
rrr This subdued Bolognese dining roomis run by the Sassi family—Giampaolo Sassimanages the house while his wife, SilviaMarani, creates the menu. They abide byslow food principles, supporting artisanalproducers and using mostly seasonal prod-ucts. Preparations are straightforward. Astarter of tarta di carciofi is a flaky pastryfilled with artichoke, mortadella, andParmesan. The pasta is all homemade,including the green spinach noodles usedin the classic lasagne verdi alla Bolognese.There’s also tagliatelle al ragu Bologneseand a wonderfully earthy tortelloni with
Los Nopales, North Pond, Graham Elliot Bowles at Avenues
A. J
ACKS
ON
10 CHICAGO READER | APRIL 14, 2006 | SECTION TWO
porcinis. A broad array of Italian winescomplement the dishes. Marani’s dessertsare worth the calories: her panna cottadrizzled with homemade caramel is top-notch. The service is gracious and theroom calm. Laura Levy Shatkin
MK868 N. Franklin | 312-482-9179
F 8.7 | S 8.6 | A 8.4 | $$$$ (22 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER:SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAYTILL 11
rrr Michael Kornick himself has moseyedon to other projects, but things at hisnamesake roll on smoothly under execu-tive chef Todd Stein. God is in the detailsat this urbane space: tart cherries in amanhattan were obviously preserved in-house; a salad of arugula and shaved fen-nel was elevated by Humboldt Fog goatcheese and a happy marriage with a zippyNew Zealand sauvignon blanc. SearedHudson Valley foie gras served with alemon-date compote left me indifferent tothe idea of a ban on the stuff, and I alsofailed to be moved by the pommes friteswith truffle cream—almost every table inthe joint was decked with a little brownpaper sack of them, but I’d take the friesat Hot Doug’s over these. Entrees arewhere Stein really shows his artful simplic-ity: pan-roasted arctic char was perfectlycooked and paired beautifully with belugalentils, braised greens, and a cardamom-infused carrot puree, and that’s just one offive fish dishes. Roasted and grilled meatoptions round out the contemporaryAmerican menu; MK is decidedly not theplace for vegetarians. Kate Neumann’sdesserts keep up the cutesy tradition offormer pastry chef Mindy Segal: OneBanana, Two Banana Foster is bananabrioche bread pudding with warmbananas, vanilla ice cream, and rum but-terscotch, and predictably there’s a Cakeand Shake—I’d rather go with a selectionof artisanal cheeses. We finished up with a$14 Armagnac worth perhaps half theprice. In fact, that’s MK in a nutshell: justfine if you’re happy paying $42 for a steak.Me, I’d like more bang for my hundredbucks. Kate Schmidt
Nacional 27325 W. Huron | 312-664-2727
F 9.2 | S 8.8 | A 9.0 | $$$ (16 REPORTS)LATIN AMERICAN, CARIBBEAN | DINNER:MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY
rrr Lettuce Entertain You fuses the cuisinesof 27 Latin American and Caribbean nations.Chef Randy Zweiban, a disciple of NormanVan Aken, the master of this “New World cui-sine” in Miami, uses ingredients like plan-tains, chorizo, yuca, and chipotle chiles increative and visually appealing ways. Mango,passion fruit, and blood oranges appear inlight, fresh desserts; drink selections run thegamut from Brazilian caipirinhas to Cubanmojitos to Peruvian pisco sours, all of whichpack a punch. There’s also a wide selection ofwines by the glass. Staff are knowledgeableand aim to please, but if you want to eat inpeace, best finish before 11 PM on weekends,when the center of the room is transformedinto a pulsing dance floor with a DJ spinningmerengue and salsa. Laura Levy Shatkin
Les Nomades222 E. Ontario | 312-649-9010
F 9.9 | S 9.7 | A 9.7 | $$$$$ (7 REPORTS)FRENCH | DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSEDSUNDAY, MONDAY
rrr Under chef Chris Nugent (Betise, MK,Park Avenue Cafe), this is still the best finerestaurant in Chicago, its traditional tone
marked by refined sauces, decadent ingre-dients in intricate flavor combinations, andgorgeous plate presentations. Nugent’sduck consomme is clear as day, with con-centrated, rich duck flavor, and decoratedwith diced carrots and mushrooms. Inanother dish, two diver scallops are servedwith thin-sliced seared veal cheeks, cauli-flower mousseline (pureed cauliflower andcream whipped until airy), and a drizzle ofmustard oil. Glistening yellow and red beetsand juicy orange sections are gently tossedin a citrus balsamic vinaigrette and servedwith rich goat cheese quenelles. Roastedveal tenderloin and crispy veal sweetbreadsare accompanied by al dente wild mush-room risotto and wilted Swiss chard, all in aperigueux sauce (a veal stock reductionwith truffles). The wine list is broad interms of variety, vintage, and price, and it’sserved by attentive waiters who’ve mas-tered pairing. Laura Levy Shatkin
Los Nopales4544 N. Western | 773-334-3149
F 8.3 | S 8.6 | A 6.0 | $$ (7 REPORTS)MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN | LUNCH, DINNER:SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY |RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPSONLY | BYO
rrr At $1.50 each, the grilled tilapia tacosat this low-key, attractive space are sogood, so bright and fresh, it seems likeyou’re stealing. Tangy seviche with tilapiaand shrimp has a splash of orange juice,which adds an appealing sweet aftertaste;tortilla chips are made in-house and comeserved with two salsas, one made oftomatillos blended with avocado, making itcreamier than the standard green sauce,the other a thick, spicy combination of chilede arbol and fruit. On a recent visit myentree was grilled pork tenderloin with anaromatic sauce flavored with guajillo andchili de arbol and a side of cactus salad(nopales means “prickly pears”). We fin-ished with a sweet, rich coffee flan, a spe-cial, one of the exceptionally friendly own-ers told us—the chef, her husband, is con-stantly experimenting. That’s the kind ofthing you’d expect at a place far moreswank; to find it in a modest storefront isbeguiling. Chip Dudley
North Pond2610 N. Cannon | 773-477-5845
F 9.0 | S 8.4 | A 9.4 | $$$ (28 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER:SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY; SUNDAY BRUNCH |CLOSED MONDAY
rrr At North Pond, along with the menu,diners are given the mantra of the modernsustainably minded restaurant: the ingredi-ents, whenever possible, are locally sourcedand organic and you will love them; the chefhas close partnerships with area farmersand you will benefit. On the first page of themenu you’re directed to the Web sites of rel-evant nonprofits. Chef Bruce Sherman isn’tshy about his principles, and it’s hard to eathere and conclude that he’s wrong. Thequality of his ingredients is evident in themeat: the farm-raised venison, braised forthe leg and roasted rare for the chops, willwin the animal converts—its flavor is deepand persuasive, never gamy, and perfectwith a red-wine-poached pear. The duckbreast, cooked sous-vide (the slow-poachedplastic bag method) is gloriously fatty, andthe consomme it sits in is even richer. ButNorth Pond isn’t the blandly well-meaningrestaurant that its rhetoric might suggest:the cooking’s surprisingly adventurous. Aslice of foie gras was matched with anequally rich cream parfait topped with huck-leberries; with mache on the side, the dishcould be seen as a clever synecdoche for an
entire dinner. The duck’s accompanied by abowl of cardoon bagna cauda (a garlic-anchovy sauce); the venison sits alongside acoffee reduction. Dessert’s wonderfullyscrewy: a white chocolate and coconut soupwith scoops of key lime cream and mojitosorbet in the middle. The tastes clash, thenmeld together. Eating it feels like playing anew video game—by the time you finish, youfeel like you’re mastering it. Nicholas Day
One Sixty Blue1400 W. Randolph | 312-850-0303
F 9.1 | S 7.9 | A 8.7 | $$$ (14 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER:MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPENLATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11
rrr On a recent visit to this sleek spot onthe western end of the Randolph restaurantcorridor, our enthusiastic Aussie waiter rec-ommended a warm goat cheese starterwith rosemary, olives, and roasted goldbeets—he’d been making it at home, hesaid, snacking on it while he watched bas-ketball. He was right about the goat cheese;not so much when it came to a toothlessasparagus salad. But meaty diver scallopswere well matched by pancetta and a ten-der pile of chanterelles, butternut squash,and leeks, and a delicately fried grouper fil-let swam in a foam-topped puddle of carrotpuree surrounded by carrots and crispparsnips—a wonderful bouquet of flavorsand textures. Only the Delmonico steak, therestaurant’s much-ballyhooed signaturedish (Michael Jordan’s favorite) disappoint-ed, literally collapsing from the weight ofmy knife. At dessert a simple scoop ofchocolate sorbet upstaged the pear tart itwas meant to complement; a dazzlingblack-and-white creme brulee was under-mined by a runny top layer of chocolatemousse. Still, the meal was pleasant andthe ambience surprisingly soothing. Thenthe check came. Peter Margasak
Pauline’s1754 W. Balmoral | 773-561-8573
F 7.4 | S 8.0 | A 8.4 | $ (5 REPORTS)AMERICAN | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: SEVEN DAYS |CASH ONLY
rrr Waiting for a table at Pauline’s on aweekend morning can be a highly directedexperience. “Guys, I need you to sit righthere,” a host says, manhandling patronstoward a red vinyl bench in the entryway.He makes up for it by handing out Dixiecups of fresh orange juice. Diners can alsodip into an enormous tub of Dum-Dumsuckers while they watch pancakes bubbleand swell on the grill. The wait is alwaysworth it: Pauline’s combines the pleasuresof an old-fashioned diner—five-eggomelets, lumberjack specials—with moresophisticated dishes such as “le toastetouffee” (bread pudding dipped in Frenchtoast batter). The “pancake trifecta” fea-tures one each of blueberry, banana, andstrawberry—the fruit is stirred into the bat-ter to create a thick, lacy-edged pancakestudded with pockets of warm, sweet pulp.Service is fast and polite; the decor ischeerfully random (old Coca-Cola signs,Nagel posters, plastic tablecloths). PlusPauline’s is open from 7 AM to 3 PM everyday of the year. Its only failing: no waffles.What the hell? Anne Ford
Pier 57365736 N. Elston | 773-774-3663
F 8.5 | S 9.2 | A 6.4 | $$$ (5 REPORTS)SEAFOOD | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY |CLOSED MONDAY
A modest family place where people smileat one another table to table, Pier 5736 hasan exceptionally gregarious chef-owner and
a dizzying number of money-saving offers:five entrees available for just $10 onTuesdays and Sundays, and specialschalked up every night of the week. Thereare a few meat selections on the menu—steak and ribs and hamburgers—but herefish rules. Many specials and fancier dishescome in around $18, but the smart strategyis probably to order the more reasonablypriced weekly or daily specials; for instance,a blackened catfish dinner for $10.95.Lobster medallions were dressed in a whitewine sauce with lemon butter and parsley;crab cakes, with a good balance of meatand breading, come with a flavorfulremoulade. The pan-seared halibut waswell prepared, flaky and tender. I saw opah,an unfamiliar fish, among the specials andgave it a shot—I suspect it’s one of thosespecies that used to get thrown back, andas far as I’m concerned it still belongs over-board. Every dish comes with a salad, veg-etable, and potato, all nicely done if some-what uneventful, and there’s a full bar anda dozen or so bottles of wine, most in the$20 range. For dessert we went with an airy chocolate mousse, which was comfortably priced at $4.50. As we weregetting ready to go our cheerful serversigned me up for a drawing to win a freemeal. Seafood bargains are what you get here. David Hammond
Rick’s Cafe Casablanca3915 N. Sheridan | 773-327-1972
F 8.7 | S 8.4 | A 8.6 | $$ (14 REPORTS)FRENCH, ITALIAN, TAPAS/SPANISH | DINNER:SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY |BYO
rrr Eating under the glare of a larger-than-life-size portrait of Humphrey Bogartdoesn’t sound classy, but the mural atRick’s Cafe Casablanca goes well with thesensual French, Italian, and Spanish food.Few plates here are over $20, but every-thing looks and tastes opulent. The mashedpotatoes that come with most steaks aresavory and artful, scored to resemble awhite chocolate bar. But the sauces are thereal treat, and the beef seems to be cut inproportion to the richness of the sauce it’spaired with: cream sauce is poured over asmall piece, while a larger slab’s coveredwith a vinaigrette reduction. Lamb is leanand flavorful, fresh linguine with seafood ismouthwatering, and appetizers like moulesmarinieres and soupe d’oignon are worthstretching out a meal for (don’t come hereif you aren’t ready to wait for good food).The rest of the small room is as smoothand dark as Bogart, though friendlier. It’s BYO, and there’s a liquor store across-the street, under the Sheridan Red Linestop. Ann Sterzinger
Roy’s720 N. State | 312-787-7599
F 9.2 | S 8.4 | A 7.9 | $$$$ (18 REPORTS)GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | DINNER: SEVENDAYS
rrr Classically trained chef Roy Yamaguchiopened his first namesake restaurant inHonolulu in 1988, serving a style of cuisinehe called Hawaiian fusion; now his chainhas scores of locations. This branch, locatedin a 6,500-square-foot room that seatsmore than 200, features 20-foot vaultedceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, crimsonwalls hung with striking modern prints, anda central exhibition kitchen crowded withthe largest culinary staff I’ve ever seen. Butthe quality of the service and the food helpto make up for the frenzied atmosphereand the overwhelming scale. Roy’s CanoeAppetizer for Two ($25) includes a few of hismost popular specialties: coconut-crustedtiger shrimp, jalapeno gyoza, teriyaki-
grilled beef satay, and goat cheese and por-tobello ravioli. For entrees there are severalseafood options, like delicate misoyaki but-terfish in a ginger-wasabi-cilantro creamsauce, plus a handful of red-meat dishes. Agood choice for sampling is the mixed plate,which changes regularly; it might combinehoney-mustard short ribs and butterfish orblackened ahi and lemongrass-crustedshutome (Hawaiian swordfish) in a Thaipeanut-basil sauce. The wine list is out-standing, with close to a dozen hard-to-findofferings by the glass and several bottlesspecially labeled for Roy’s. Service is atten-tive and cheerful, although all the alohasget a bit silly. Laura Levy Shatkin
Sabatino’s4441 W. Irving Park | 773-283-8331
F 8.0 | S 7.8 | A 7.0 | $$ (10 REPORTS)ITALIAN | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER:SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAYTILL 12:30, WEDNESDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, MONDAY,TUESDAY, THURSDAY TILL 11:30
rrr Tuxedo-clad hosts, strolling musi-cians, no-nonsense pours at the convivialbar—Sabatino’s old-school Italian-American appeal is universal, as evi-denced by the happy throngs. Warm,crusty loaves and addictive pizza breadcome to the table in a blink of an eye,though go cautiously—dinners includesoup (stracciatella with spinach is afavorite) and salad. Terrific startersinclude garlicky shrimp de jonghe (aChicago original), textbook baked clams,and bresaola, razor-thin air-cured beefwith arugula and Parmigiano Reggiano.Pastas range from spaghetti with Angelo’sspecial meat sauce to zuppa di mare, alovely mix of lobster, scallops, shrimp,clams, and mussels in a light tomato saucewith linguine. For secondi fresh fish, sim-ply prepared, or veal, in particular vealsaltimbocca, are good choices; me, I hitthe classics, chicken Vesuvio, a veal chop,or thick-cut New York strip. Flaming table-side desserts, quickly becoming a lost art,are a specialty; here are anachronisticdelights like baked Alaska and cherriesjubilee. The interesting wine list rangesfrom damn reasonable to three rings andmore (the ancient cash register totes amaximum of $45 at a time), and that’s notto mention the veteran waitstaff, compli-mentary valet parking, Wednesday lobsterspecial, and sing-along piano player onweekends. Gary Wiviott
Scylla1952 N. Damen | 773-227-2995
F 9.6 | S 8.7 | A 8.7 | $$$ (6 REPORTS)MEDITERRANEAN, EUROPEAN | DINNER: SUNDAY,TUESDAY-SATURDAY; SUNDAY BRUNCH | CLOSEDMONDAY
rrr Chef Stephanie Izard, a vet of Springand La Tache, executes the ambitiousmenu here with expertise. Crisp sauteedveal sweetbreads done Mediterraneanstyle with braised greens, sweet currants,and toasted pine nuts made an impressivefirst course; the grilled baby octopussalad, full of arugula and mint leaves,tasted green and fresh, though the octo-pus was a bit chewy. The celeriac soupwas decadently creamy and perfectlysmooth. Izard serves whatever fish isfresh; one evening it was Hawaiian ono,which came to the table topped with asalty brandade (whipped-potato-and-salt-cod spread) and surrounded by a medleyof colors, flavors, and textures: slightlycharred roasted brussels sprouts, earthywild mushrooms, tart dried cherries, andcrunchy almonds. The skate wing wasencrusted in crispy dried potato flakes,marked with a zigzag of spicy tomato
Restaurants
CHICAGO READER | APRIL 14, 2006 | SECTION TWO 11
aioli, and set on a big pile of charredradicchio, seared calamari, grape toma-toes, capers, and a few too many garban-zo beans. Portions are ample and pricedaccordingly—most entrees cost in the low-to-mid-20s. Laura Levy Shatkin
Seasons Restaurant120 E. Delaware | 312-649-2349
F 9.0 | S 10.0 | A 9.1 | $$$$ (7 REPORTS)GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | BREAKFAST, LUNCH,DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY; SUNDAY BRUNCH
rrr This old-world dining room, adjacentto the seventh-floor lobby of the FourSeasons Hotel, is predictably luxurious,with oak paneling, grandiose chandeliers,and huge vases of fresh-cut flowerseverywhere. The tables are beautifullyappointed with oversize Wedgwood chinaand gorgeous stemware, setting the stagefor an elegant affair. The pricey French-influenced menu changes seasonally (thetasting menu daily); braised beef cheeks,cassoulet of lobster, and Brittany scallopsserved in the shell are regular offerings.Straightforward contemporary Americandishes (of which there are few) mightinclude lemon-and-garlic roasted chickenwith rosemary potatoes or a lamb trio(chop, loin, and shank). An adorable chil-dren’s menu lists favorites like PB&J andchocolate chip cookies. Raters praise theSunday brunch buffet in particular: for$60 you get to choose from a staggeringselection: grilled-nectarine and goatcheese salad, pepper-crusted ahi tuna,basil-crusted rack of lamb, grilled quailbreast, chicken Parmesan, a Mongolianbeef stir-fry, custom-made omelets andwaffles, ricotta blintzes, fruit, yogurt,and about a million other hot and colditems. Laura Levy Shatkin
Spiaggia980 N. Michigan | 312-280-2750
F 9.4 | S 9.4 | A 9.2 | $$$$ (10 REPORTS)ITALIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS
rrr Whoever says people don’t dress fordinner anymore hasn’t been to Spiaggialately. The room, with a stunning view ofLake Michigan from 40-foot picture win-dows, is perfectly appointed, and so arethe guests, which is only fitting at a placein the running (along with Everest) for aJames Beard award as the country’s out-standing restaurant. From the moment our amuse arrived, though, it was the table that held our attention. Chef TonyMantuano offers tasting menus, but on thisvisit we went full bore and ordered a lacarte, starting with sea scallops pairedwith Italian lentils and cotechino sausage;a trio of pesce cruda that included a stand-out sea bass tartare flavored with pistachioand orange; and surprisingly delicatehouse-marinated anchovies with buffalomozzarella. Pasta here, as one mightexpect, is terrific: handmade spaghetti allachitarra (so-called because it resemblesguitar strings) came with sweet lobster,spring garlic, dried tomatoes, and arugula;squid ink and saffron spaghettis with sur-prisingly meaty Dover sole and baby fennelfronds. The star, however, was gnocchi withricotta and black truffle sauce—no wonderMantuano is known for his truffle tastingmenus. Our entrees included a wood-grilled veal chop nicely complemented by aruby red Veronese Campo Buri, but it wasthe grilled pork loin, served with tenderbraised pork cheek, morels, ramps, achunk of guanciale, and creamy polenta,
that won me over. The dish was so damngood I felt a sense of abandonment whenthey took the plate away. Desserts—anintense chocolate semifreddo and mouth-puckering lemon panna cotta—were grand,but Spiaggia’s cheese program is second tonone, with superior offerings like a signa-ture aged cow’s milk cheese and a cow-and-sheep’s-milk cheese made with grapemust and grape seeds, which crunch under your teeth. Service is seamless, professional, and well-informed; and Denise Beckman, who’s replaced longtimesommelier Henry Bishop, did right by uswith a sparkling Gavi di Gavi to start theextravaganza. Gary Wiviott
Spring2039 W. North | 773-395-7100
F 9.1 | S 8.7 | A 8.7 | $$$ (30 REPORTS)AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, SEAFOOD |DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSEDMONDAY
rrr Spring doesn’t just have seafood. Atthe very end of the entree list—past theblack bass, monkfish, arctic char, and allthat’s tartared and sashimied—there’schicken and beef rib eye. Like a children’smenu, the meat’s there for those dinerswho refuse to eat their sea bream. They’refools. The first restaurant venture of execu-tive chef Shawn McClain, now the overlordof a mini empire that includes Green Zebraand Custom House, Spring’s a half-decadeold and still fresh. The concept’s simple:clean, clever Asian-influenced seafooddishes. The flavor of the fish is usually keptpure; the corruption’s confined to thesplendid sides and sauces. The meatymonkfish sits on top of pork belly, which ithints at in texture, and a rich sunchokepuree; golden tilefish, soft and plain, islivened up by peekytoe crab wontons and agrassy broth that’s like a garden distilled.Alongside the raw fish appetizers there’salso “charred sashimi of beef ‘pho,’” a fewthin slices of marvelously sweet raw beef,singed on the edges. Potato “ravioli” testthe structural stability of potatoes, but thesingle seared scallop that accompanies it ispristine and the pungent mushroom reduc-tion is the perfect foil, like a gastronomicgood cop-bad cop routine. Dessert’s smartand light on the tongue, especially lemonmousse with hibiscus sorbet and rosewaterfoam. From the street Spring offers a near-ly pornographic depiction of fine dining:passersby on North Avenue can gaze downthe length of the seemingly serene diningroom, originally the pool area of a bath-house. Inside, however, the space is nar-rower and more enclosed than it appears—the noise of the crowd, and the music, canclimb. Nicholas Day
Sweets & Savories1534 W. Fullerton | 773-281-6778
F 8.9 | S 9.7 | A 8.3 | $$$ (6 REPORTS)AMERICAN, FRENCH | LUNCH: FRIDAY; DINNER:SEVEN DAYS; SUNDAY BRUNCH
rrr A Francophile’s enabler, situatedbetween a Pennzoil and a taqueria on adilapidated stretch of West Fullerton,Sweets & Savories delivers occasionallyoverwrought riffs on haute cuisine—a $17burger ($10 on Wednesdays), for example,with foie gras, truffled mayonnaise, andendive—in a nearly pretension-free setting(every Saturday chef David Richards sendsbaskets of food over to the Pennzoil inexchange for sharing a parking lot with therestaurant). Richards’s menu changes fre-
quently; on the night I was there appetizersranged from a seared foie gras served withcantaloupe and mango gelee to an unusu-al, terrific tart with Roquefort, lavender-raisin compote, and fresh cream. Soupsand salads are good if familiar—Frenchonion, vichyssoise, lyonnaise—but theentrees really shine: the salmon en papil-lotte, with rosemary sprigs and roastedpotatoes, was delicately succulent, and thesmoked-bacon-and-fontina quiche was per-fectly rich in flavor and texture. Sweetscome in with a changing, ten-item-strongmenu of homemade treats that are ends inthemselves—toffee bread pudding, lemon-curd tart, warm Belgian fondant cake withScharffen Berger cocoa sorbet. There’s aprix fixe Sunday brunch ($16), which, bythe looks of the menu, ought to be a deli-cious if nod-inducing feast before a mati-nee at Facets across the street. No corkagefees on Monday. Ulysses Smith
Tank Sushi4514 N. Lincoln | 773-769-2600
F 8.7 | S 7.9 | A 6.6 | $$$ (19 REPORTS)JAPANESE | LUNCH: SATURDAY-SUNDAY; DINNER:SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAYTILL 11:30
rrr Tank’s formula—sleek contemporaryspace, clubby background music, signaturecocktails—has been done before. But a yearafter opening, it was packed on a Tuesdaynight, and it still feels welcoming and casu-al enough for the neighborhood folkies andhippiesters. Many of the sushi combina-tions nod to tropical climes: the GreenIsland roll comes with spicy coconut may-onnaise, the Tropic Thunder is adornedwith a thin slice of mango, the Latin Heat(superwhite tuna and smoked salmon withavocado) sports cilantro and a healthy sliceof jalapeno. We loved the Ocean Sundaeroll (shrimp tempura, cream cheese, avoca-do, and an embarrassment of sauces,mayos, and other adornments), with itscombination of sweet and spicy flavors andcreamy and crunchy textures. The makimenu also features an unusual number ofvegetarian rolls including kampyo, mari-nated gourd with sesame seeds, and a shi-itake roll with sweet ginger soy and sesameseeds. The veggie tempura roll was a disappointment—there wasn’t a crumb oftempura crunch in sight. We fared betterwith the avocado tempura roll, with silkyavocado, asparagus, and daikon sprouts,though we couldn’t find the tempura hereeither. Kathie Bergquist
Tom Yum Thai & Japanese Cuisine3232 W. Foster | 773-442-8100
F 8.9 | S 9.6 | A 7.6 | $ (5 REPORTS)ASIAN, THAI, JAPANESE | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | BYO
rrr We didn’t know what to make of thisplace at first. The room had pleatherbooths, sheer fabric thumbtacked to theceiling above Christmas lights in the win-dows, and, strangest of all, a large, shinymotorcycle parked just inside the frontdoor. But our server took our orderspromptly and zipped back with our appetiz-ers and entrees before we had a chance toponder its significance. The menu is of thesomething-for-everyone variety, with a widesampling of tried-and-true Thai, Chinese,and sushi selections and a good number ofvegetarian options. Servings of crabRangoon, “crispy delight” prawns, and potstickers were a bit greasy, nothing out ofthe ordinary. Shu shi pla—a lightly panfried
red snapper atop romaine leaves andbathed in a red curry sauce—went over well,as did the pad sie mao, mixed vegetables ina classic bean sauce; it was just spicyenough, though a dish of Thai red currywith chicken could’ve stood a kick. Themost pleasing part of the evening mighthave been the check: prices here are veryreasonable, which may explain Tom Yum’spopularity with Raters. Susannah J. Felts
Trattoria No. 1010 N. Dearborn | 312-984-1718
F 8.4 | S 8.5 | A 7.6 | $$$ (15 REPORTS)ITALIAN | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER:MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY
rrr At Trattoria No. 10 the receiptsalone—imprinted with the slogan “TrattoriaNo. 10 is perfect for business”—make itclear that this isn’t a place with an identitycrisis. A rare decent dinner option in theLoop (it’s hidden beneath Dearborn in afaux-Italian grotto), its tables are alwayswell populated with downtown workersand business travelers. You can see why:service is seamless and unpretentious; theseating’s cozy and private; and the prices,while not inexpensive, won’t torch anexpense account. But if you’re out forpleasure you might want to go elsewhere:the food, while dutifully well prepared andreliable, is rarely compelling. A few smallerplates are terrific—the ricotta gnocchi’stoothsome, and pancetta-wrapped scallopswith strawberries make for a charmingpairing of salty and sweet. But, oddly, thepastas can be frustrating: on the currentspring menu both the linguine with bluecrab and pineapple and the ravioli withasparagus and sun-dried-tomato creamsauce tasted a lot better in print than onthe plate. And while pork tenderloin withbalsamic caramelized onions wasadmirably juicy, it wasn’t exciting enoughto distract anyone from a meeting—whichmight just be the point. Nicholas Day
Tre Kronor3258 W. Foster | 773-267-9888
F 8.6 | S 8.5 | A 7.5 | $$ (20 REPORTS)SWEDISH, BREAKFAST | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DIN-NER: MONDAY-SATURDAY; SUNDAY BRUNCH | BYO
rrr Starting at seven every morning, thekitchen at Tre Kronor turns out their leg-endary Danish, cinnamon rolls, and anumber of cheese-filled omelets, eachpacking enough points to top out yourWeight Watchers quota for the day. Mostof the foods are of Scandinavian stock,though there’s one quisling burger on thelunch menu. Herring is perhaps the mostpredictable of Scandinavian starters, butTre Kronor’s superbly moist and meatyversion, made in-house, has a goodnesslacking in standard deli varieties. Lunchofferings include quiche and Norwegianmeatballs on limpa, wheat bread withdeep hints of fennel; Swedish meatballshere are light, delicate, and deliciouslydressed with sweet-tart lingonberry sauce.In line with the robust Viking tradition, youwon’t find a salad here without cheese orbacon or both; the menu is full of the kindof fortifying food you’d want to eat beforeheading out to herd reindeer or invadeyour southern neighbors. The fish entreesare mostly of salmon, prepared in a num-ber of ways (smoked, cured in aquavit, andas gravlax) and genuinely superior.Servers in this warm, woody place areexceptionally friendly and informed aboutthe cuisine. It’s small, though, so you
might want to make reservations (accept-ed only on weekdays). Check out the giftstore across the street to stock up onclogs, trolls, and high-end versions ofSwedish fish candy. David Hammond
Tru676 N. Saint Clair | 312-202-0001
F 8.9 | S 9.2 | A 9.3 | $$$$$ (13 REPORTS)FRENCH, GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | DINNER:MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY
rrr Executive chef Rick Tramanto andexecutive pastry chef Gale Gand bringequal parts knowledge, experimentation,and whimsy to the table at Tru, where youcan choose from wild tasting “collections”(with courses including the famous glasscaviar “staircase”) or slightly less wildcreations prix fixe. On a recent night I wastempted by what I think of as one of Tru’ssignature dishes, a lobster risotto withsaffron (sometimes it’s black truffles),served in a shiny individual copper potwith lobster reduction spooned over atthe very last moment. Steaming and pip-ing hot, the risotto was perfect—chewyand savory and creamy, the pieces of just-cooked lobster delicate. The meal beganwith the tiniest of amuse bouches, a circleof braised leek with a salty eggplant con-coction in the middle, served on a kind ofporringer spoon. Then followed a littlepeekytoe crab salad, an interesting bal-ance of textures. For my main course,with a glass of Tete Cuvee, I marched backto heartier fare: an extraordinary primebeef rib eye that though accompanied bygreens and buttery Robuchon-stylemashed potatoes made me feel it was justme and the meat, an ancient tale in a civi-lized place. My friend and I couldn’t resistthe cheese course, and despite our dainti-est of requests for portion control (“Justthe tiniest of slivers, please,” “Just themerest mention of Brie”), I think it sent usover the edge—I wish I’d better preparedfor the all-out decadence that is dessertat Tru. But it was onward: first an amuseof strawberry lemonade, then a chocolatesemifreddo with chocolated Rice Krispiesthat rocked my world. Meals end with onelast spoiled grazing through a selection ofsmall cakes, cookies, and candies, alongwith a goody bag and a handmade lol-lipop, a petite green round on a long, long stem. Elizabeth M. Tamny
Victory’s Banner2100 W. Roscoe | 773-665-0227
F 8.2 | S 7.8 | A 7.1 | $ (23 REPORTS)VEGETARIAN/HEALTHY | BREAKFAST, LUNCH:SUNDAY-MONDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY |CLOSED TUESDAY
rrr Victory’s Banner is one of the bestbreakfast houses in Chicago, period; the owner told me he learned how tomake his omelets from the immortal Lou Mitchell himself. Satisfaction Promiseis a scrambled-egg dish with spinach, sun-dried tomato, and feta. But the killeris the French toast, in a batter made with cream (not milk) and orange mar-malade, served with peach butter and real maple syrup. There are also pancakes, waffles, and uppama (an Indian hot cereal). Lunch items includehomemade soups, salads, and wraps. The restaurant is owned by a student of meditation master Sri Chinmoy,and the menu says that it exists for one reason: to give joy. I think they’vesucceeded. Jeff Kolton, Rater