Zeze Oriaikhi-Sao, Malée Natural Science

“AFRICA- INSPIRED LUXURY”

GO FUTURE: ACTIVES The skin’s eye opener fortriple photoprotection

SPOTLIGHT: DISPENSINGNew airless and dispensing options

DR THOMAS BLATT

Beiersdorf

Proven synergistic effects of

Q10 combined with creatine

5 / 2018

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2 DAYS OF FRUITFUL BUSINESS THROUGH EFFICIENT MEETINGS

26 How do orally applied collagen peptides work on the dermal extracellular matrix turnover?

20 Activating epidermal photosensors to better cope with radiation

14 Dr Thomas Blatt from Beiersdorf explains how Q10 works when combined with creatine

4 l COSSMA 5 I 2018 www.cossma.com

Contents COSSMA 5/2018

3 Editorial

12 MARKETS & COMPANIES

12 News

14 GO FUTURE: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

14 Dr Thomas Blatt, Beiersdorf: New results: Q10 and creatine

19 Michelle Strutton, Mintel: International launches

20 Júlia Comas, Olga Laporta, Marie Ollagnier, Albert Soley and

Raquel Delgado, Lipotec: The skin’s eye opener

26 Dr Meike Streker, Cosmetics Consultant:

Feeding the skin from the inside out

28 INGREDIENTS

28 Shilpa Dhangar and Xenia Petsitis, Merck: How to smile like a star

33 Formulations: Natural cosmetics

34 Ingredients news

36 MARKETING 36 Rubab Abdoolla, Euromonitor:

South Africa – A snapshot of the beauty market

39 Star of the Month: A game changer?

40 Interview with Helga Hertsig-Lavocah, Futurologist & Trend Watcher,

Hint Futurology Creative Consultancy: Trend spotting

42 Market survey: Processing, packaging & laboratory services

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46 What makes product application even more captivating?

36 A comprehensive snapshot of South Africa’s beauty and per-sonal care market

28 How to accommodate new consumers’ demands in oral care?

6 l COSSMA 5 I 2018 www.cossma.com

Contents

46 SPOTLIGHT: DISPENSING & MORE

46 Airless&more: Dispensing in perfection

50 PACKAGING

50 Cosmoprof: New trends at a glance

53 Packagingnews

54 Aerosolsattheirbest

56 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES

56 InterviewwithZezeOriaikhi-Sao,MaléeNaturalScience: An Africa-inspired luxury brand

59 People

60 SERVICES

8 DownloadList

60 EventsDiary

62 Suppliers‘Guide

65 Advertisers’Indec

66 MastheadPage

66 Preview

Front cover picture: Malée Natural Science

COSSMA5/2018

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STAGNATION FOR

PREMIUM PRODUCTSVKE* | A growth of merely 0.5 % in 2017 was the rather disappointing result obtained by the association of cosmetic distributors in Germany com-prised of 60 companies working in the distribution of premium cosmet-ics. The overall sales in prices ex fac-tory amounted to 2.087 billion Euros. In 2017, counterfeit products valued at 11.6 million Euros were confiscated at German external borders. This devel-opment is due in part to the effects of online retail.*German association of cosmetics distributors

www.vke.de

ACQUI SITIONWEENER PLASTICS (WP) | The company has acquired Latin Ameri-can packaging solutions provider Proenfar from Altra Investments. While WP has a strong presence in Europe, the Latin American Proenfar headquartered in Colom-bia employs more than 1,600 people and has four production plants in Colombia, Argentina and Mexico and exports its products to more than 20 countries across the Americas.www.wppg.com

News OF THE

Month

Spring innovations in LeipzigBEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG | With about 400 companies and brands, the 8th BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG in April saw a record number of exhibitors. Approximately 8,000 visitors with backgrounds in professional cosmet-ics, nail, hair, and foot care, podology drugstores, dermatology, as well as well-being and retail took advantage of the comprehensive trade show for beauty professionals.

This versatile exhibition showcasing cosmetics producers and suppliers was complemented by the 4th Anti-Ageing Congress and the 8th Podology Congress. The Anti-Ageing Congress was attended by approximately 120 participants and was moderated by COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss.www.beauty-fairs.de/LeipzigExploring the latest developments of 400 companies and brands

Premium cosmetics obtained an increase of only 0.5 %

MADE IN ITALYCOSMETICA ITALIA* | The Italian cosmetic sector records over 11 billion Euros in turnover in 2017 and thus obtained a plus of 4.3% in comparison to the previous year. The percentage of export went up by 8%, with a trade balance of 2.5 billion €. Over 35 thousand people are employed by the industry and increases to 200 thousand when the related industries are taken into account.* Italian Personal Care Association

www.cosmeticaitalia.it

STANDARDISED SKIN MODELHENKEL | The Phenion Full Thickness Skin Model developed by Hen-kel scientists is known for its application in the 3D Skin Comet Assay. The milestone based on this skin model is a new procedure to manufacture this skin model in a standardised and reproducible way and was developed by the University in Düsseldorf* in collaboration with Henkel. The aged skin model has the morphological and physiological characteristics of aged human skin. Besides the investigation of basic mechanisms related to skin ageing, this type of skin model facilitates testing of active ingredients.*Under the scientific leadership of Prof Dr Peter Brenneisen

www.phenion.com, www.henkel.com Cultivation of skin models during chemical exposure

Specialty Chemicals soldAKZONOBEL | The company has sold their Specialty Chemicals division to The Carlyle Group and GIC for €10.1 bil-lion. The transaction is to be completed before the end of 2018. www.akzonobel.com

MARKETS & COMPANIES NEWS

12 l COSSMA 5 I 2018

60 %GENEU | The company believes that skin

ageing is 60% influenced by genes. There-fore, Geneu offers customers a same-day DNA testing service from Selfridges and

then a personalised prescription for anti-ageing serums based on their DNA and lifestyle questionnaire.

www.euromonitor.com

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LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE!On the COSSMA website we post lots of additional information related to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find MORE THAN 1,000 USEFUL ADDITIONAL ITEMS to extend your knowledge and under-standing: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover; market data and statistics; supplier list-ings; literature references; scientific articles; product formula-tions and useful base informations. Take a look right now, at www.cossma.com/download

CHARLOTTE LIBBYGlobal Beauty Analyst, Mintel

provides a snapshot of the major trends set to impact global beauty

CAMILLA MARCUS-DEWCo-Founder, The Soap Co.

talks about a luxury skin care brand pro-duced by people with disabilities

HEELA YANGCo-Founder and CEO, Sol de Janeiro

talks about her prize-winning body care range

ZEZE ORIAIKHI-SAOFounder and Director, Malée Natural Science

provides insights into the luxury brand Malée inspired by the ancient wisdom of Africa

CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: WWW.COSSMA.COM/TV

COSSMA DOWNLOAD TIP IN MAYOver the last decade hair light-ening has become more and more popular among women all over the world. Blond hair colours are among the best-sell-ing shades. Even grey to white hair has become a trend among young consumers, allowing also for fashionable effect shades such as temporary pink, red or blue hair colours and strands. Dr Thomas Förster and Dr Georg Knübel from Henkel dis-close myths and facts on differ-ent hair bonding treatments.

MARKETS & TRENDS: Aerosols: Disrupting stagnant categories

COMPANIES: The Soap Co.

BACKGROUND: Spotting true natural cosmetics

FORMULATION: Shower Gel Unicorn (Eckart Altana)

Top downloads for May

DOWNLOADS

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Your access codes for May:

User name: cossma5

Password: active

HELGA HERTSIG- LAVOCAHTrend Watcher, Hint Futurology

explores how the latest global trends are dominating beauty packaging

THOMAS KEISERManaging Director, IKW

explains what personal care categories in Germany were particu-larly successful in 2017

Strong hair lightening decomposes the melanin pigments and affects the keratin inside the hair fibre

SERVICES

www.cossma.com l 11

Free Downloads for subscribers | www.cossma.com/download

For high colour intensityCFF | The range of Sensocel powders, micro-fine cellulose powders, improves the colour effect in decorative cosmetics. Sens-ocel 5, a non-plastic, nature-derived ingre-dient, has a binding capacity of about 3 to 5 times its own weight. Greasy and sticky bases with a glossy surface can be turned

into a matt formulation with a non-tacky, light feel. It increases colour intensity. In a study, a lipstick formula with Sensocel 5

showed improved smoothness. Low dosages considerably improve the texture of a natural based lipstick formulation. The even pay-off provides good cover-age effect even with a low pigment dosage.www.cff.de

FOR ACNE-PRONE SKINGREENTECH | Acnilys is a multi-functional and plant-based active derived from the Rhodomyrtus tomentosa berry. It acts on the pathophysiology by interven-ing on all the pathways involved to prevent skin disorders and imperfections of oily skin. A tri-ple action restores the balance of healthy skin. It prevents hyper-seborrhea by regulating the pro-duction of sebum and inhibiting the activity of 5-- -reductase. It limits microbial proliferation by decreasing the proliferation of P. acnes and its deleterious effects. It also modulates inflammation by reducing the pro-duction of inflammatory lipid mediators induced by oxidized squalene. Acnilys has been tested in vitro and in vivo with proven effectiveness within 28 days.www.greentechgmbh.de, www.greentech.fr

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BSB Awards winners 2018BSB | The 16th BSB Innovation Awards* for cosmetics, natural cosmetics and ingredients has been awarded in Amsterdam. These were the winners:

category product company

actives ingredients

MossCellTec No. 1

Mwibelle Biochemistry

functionals SymGuard CD Symrise

natural actives Vetivyne Givaudan

natural functionals

Seboclear-MP Rahn

finished products

The Skin Whis-perer Eye Cream

Mila d’Opitz

natural products

3 in 1 Gesichtsöl

Börlind

*Organiser of the awards is the BSB consulting and service office Dr Riedel www.bsb-cosmetic.com

The winners of the BSB Awards in Amsterdam

Lipstick intensity with (left) and without Sensocel 5 at the same dosage of pigments

A triple action restores healthy skin balance

Award winners 2018IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL | In-Cosmetics Global unveiled the winners of its Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards 2018 – a celebration of the most cutting-edge ingredients that have been launched in the past six months. This year’s winners are as follows:

category ingredient company

active MossCellTec No. 1 Mibelle Biochemistry

functional Rheance Glycolipids Evonik

green Fucoreverse Lessonia

textures Rheoluxe Rheology: Come play with me

Elementis

Make up Cosmetic Bioglitter Pure Ronald Brittonwww.in-cosmetics.comEvonik’s happy prize winners

INGREDIENTS

34 l COSSMA 5 I 2018

News News OF THE Month

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One man’s trash is another man’s treasure

Trend spottingInterview | What were the most impressive innovations at this year’s Cosmoprof? Trend Watcher Helga Hertsig-Lavocah gives us her take.

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COSSMA: What was the biggest take-away for you at this year’s show?

Helga Hertsig-Lavocah, Futurologist & Trend Watcher, Hint Futurology Creative Consultancy: Nutryancor – this is an Italian personal care brand featuring food waste that would oth-erwise be discarded. The brand cur-rently uses residues from blueberry, apple, artichoke and carrot process-ing – ingredients bursting with great beauty benefits.

So this is an example of the “nose-to-tail, root-to-fruit” movement that’s hot in restauranting, food and beverage and even computing. Dell has a jewellery line made from the gold recovered from their recy-cling programs.

Absolutely. One man’s trash is an-other man’s treasure. These products are a great example of holistic think-ing, engagement and storytelling.

Nutryancor isn’t unique though. Other examples in personal care in-clude most vinotherapy brands, Optiat who uses waste from coffee, chia and hemp processing, Raw-ceuticals who repurposes waste barks from red maple, black spruce, yellow birch and Jack pine, and Further who creates value from the glycerine “waste” from biofuel.

True, but these products are still very niche. The launch also appeals to me because it opens up the conversation to include using parts of the plant we don’t normally use. We should con-sider launches such as Kiehl’s new

Interview with: Helga Hertsig- Lavocah Futurologist & Trend Watcher, Hint Futurology Creative Consultancy Dublin, Ireland Helga@ hintfuturology.com

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MARKETING

40 l COSSMA 5 I 2018

“ Using food waste as cosmetic ingredients with great beauty benefits is a promising approach”Helga Hertsig-Lavocah, Futurologist & Trend Watcher, Hint Futurology

Kiehl’s new firming mask uses ginger leaf rather than ginger root

firming mask with ginger leaf, rather than ginger root, Attitudes Super Leaves line which has been extended to include baby care and Korean skin care products with ginseng berry instead of ginseng root. These all pave the way for new thinking around sustainabil-ity – it’s better to use all the plant than only some of it.

You mentioned sustainability. Did you see any other exciting examples?

Avajar from South Korea has a Quick Cleansing Dry Tissue, in other words a dry “wet wipe.” Adding a few drops of water onto the tissue and squeezing it gener-ates foam. The tissues are loaded with cleansing and nourishing in-gredients.

Solves the problem of wet wipes drying out, once the pack is opened.

Although the brand doesn’t play up the environmental benefit of not transporting water, this is the real USP. On-the-go/festival prod-ucts are mainstream now. I can even imagine a tie in with a min-eral water (or perhaps a juice) brand.

What else stood out for you?

Sound. The relaunch of Skin Regi-men with a “functional aroma” to lower cortisol levels and increase endorphins is exciting but what caught my attention was that their in-salon treatments are accompa-nied by a special play list, “the exclusive Macro Waves Sound*” which enhances the efficacy of the treatment. This composition, exclusively created for the Skin Regimen Urban Longevity Facial, incorporates both natural and syn-thetic sounds which are inspired by yoga-based mindful relaxation techniques using the OM vibra-

tions. In line with the four steps of the treatment, the soundtrack starts with a pulsating frequency that slowly merges into electronic music elements in a progression of tempo and form. Sea waves, wildlife and subtle wind sounds enter the soundscape as a delicate connection to nature.

Interesting, particularly when we consider the new Dermalog-ica Sound Sleep Cocoon cream. Before applying this night cream, users need to download an app, which plays a 20-minute binaural track** to help relax. Sound (including ultra sound) is the new frontier for beauty care.

We’re going beyond sound brand-ing*** (the Intel or Visa sound), by adding value to the experience. More examples include Shiseido beauty treatments which are en-hanced with “acoustic beauty care.” Their Omotenashi Sound enhances the power of touching the skin.” The Clé de Peau Beauté, another Shiseido brand, uses Soin Synactif treatment program which has a special Synactif Sound.

There were lots of home-use de-vices at the show this year – in-cluding one claiming to gener-ate plasma for home use.

I even saw an iron – literally an iron-- for your face. But more seri-ously, one brand that stood out for me was Mirang’s Ms Neck from South Korea. The remote control for their neck and chin firmer doubles up as a massage tool for the face – mul-ti-tasking with just one device. This is a really inspirational launch. What else could ancillar-ies (the bottle, the box) do? Q

* https://soundcloud.com/skin-regimen

** When each tone is sent to a different ear, there is no physical interaction between the waves, but the brain still creates an interference inside the head

*** Sound branding uses audible elements for brand communication

Additional information can be found on the Internet – see download panel

New beauty products use

parts of a plant which used to be

discarded

NUTRIANCOR

uses residues from blueberry, apple, artichoke

and carrot processing

Some beauty treatments are enhanced with

acoustic beauty care

MARKETING

www.cossma.com l 41

New trends at a glanceEvents | 250,000 visitors – a growth of 11% in the presence of foreign operators – came to see the new products and award-winning developments presented at this year’s Cosmoprof in Bologna by a record number of 2,822 exhibitors from 70 countries.

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Aptar created a miniature ver-sion of its Touche Eclat Cush-ion foundation for Yves Saint

Laurent thanks to its Cosmin packag-ing. This travel-friendly sample pro-vides a make-up experience compa-rable to the compact sold in stores. Cosmin is an aluminium or PET pack-aging for very fluid formulations. Due to its ergonomic closing system, it is travel-friendly and reusable. Its appli-cator delivers just the right amount of product. Its flat, square format allows easy distribution in magazines, while

its open card has plenty of space for brand promotion. www.beauty-home.aptar.com

Bakic presented their new hair care bottle Aurora, whose design is in-spired by the natural bounce of healthy hair, combining soft waves and distinctive lines into one unique shape. Available in various sizes, this packaging is particularly suitable for hair care products. With its slender neck combined with the gentle curv-ing line of the sides, it lies perfectly in the hand whatever size you choose. www.bakic.com

Corpack’s material Sughera con-sists of a synthetic rubber-blend mixed with ground pieces of nat-ural cork. For the first time a mi-cro-agglomerated natural cork is in-jection-moulded and formed without using glue. The material has good re-sistance to various elements and ver-satility in application. This new ma-terial (70% cork, 30% rubber-blend) uses less petroleum-based materials, while giving the component a natu-

ral look and feel. The components can be made in a variety of colours. The new cooperation with the man-ufacturer Livingcap enables Corpack to be the first company to introduce Sughera in a wide range of cosmetic packaging. www.corpack.de

Fiber Cushion from Porex is designed to enhance the consumer experience with liquid-based formulations such as foundation or concealer pack-aged within pocket-sized, on-the-go make-up products. The new cush-ion is a gradient fibre reservoir that addresses product dosage challenges typically associated with stand-ard foam cushions used in existing make-up products. The technology deploys capillary action to pull liq-uid formula from the bottom of pads to the surface in a measured, consist-ent manner. A touch-driven response then ensures the cushion disperses a uniform amount of product each time it is compressed. The cushion prevents leakage and product waste and eliminates problems that con-

A touch-driven response ensures the Po-rex cushion disperses a uniform amount of product when it is compressed

50 l COSSMA 5 I 2018

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