Unadulterated 28

Sometimes only pure chocolate will do

Fruit and Nuts 40

So much more than raisins and hazelnuts

Sugar and Spice 62

And all things nice

Flora and Fauna 84

For the wild at heart

Alcohol 106

Chocolate with an extra kick

Apothecary 128

The mad scientist bit

Suppliers 158

Index 159

Introduction 6

The first thing you dowith chocolate is eat it 10

How to taste chocolate. Profiles ofdifferent cocoa beans. Tasting table: how to match chocolatevarieties with other flavours.

The process of making a chocolate truffle 18

◆ tasting◆ filling◆ tempering◆ rolling◆ decorating◆ eating!

Specification

Publication: October 2009 • ISBN 978-1-85626-829-5 • Format: 240 x 210mm, PLC only • Extent: 160pp

Word count: 30,000 • Price: £16.99 • Illustration: Colour photography throughout • Rights: World, Kyle Cathie

Kyle Cathie Ltd, 122 Arlington Road, London NW1 7HP • general.enquiries@kyle-cathie.com • www.kylecathie.com

Contents

Chocolate BLAD 10/12/08 15:48 Page 1

35–40% Java milk chocolate

Creamy, milk being predominant, and asweet, sometimes caramel or toffee finish.Not complex in cocoa flavour but verycomforting and indulgent. Some milkchocolate contains malt extract, giving arounded and warm taste.

◆ A touch of sea salt tempers and balances the sweetness.◆ Cinnamon, nutmeg and winter spices combine well to warm

and comfort.◆ Slow-roasted almonds and hazelnuts make a classic combination;

add a touch of sea salt and you have an outstanding blend.◆ Try naturally dried fruits like apricots, peaches and figs – the

balance of intense caramelised fruit sugars with milk chocolatecan be stunning.

Madagascar Fruity, slightly acidic, mouth watering,lighter in-mouth feel and ideal for summer.An alcoholic characteristic can sometimesbe evident from the fermentation of thecocoa beans.

◆ Summer berries, raspberries, strawberries and cherries.◆ Sea salt will enhance the chocolate adding sparkle and character.◆ Tangy flavours pair well including cranberries, Marmite, passion

fruit, gin, fruity red wine and salted caramel. ◆ Think chocolate and raspberry tart, chocolate sauce over fruit ice

cream, chocolate-dipped strawberries and other summer fruits.

Venezuela Criollo varieties have a delicate andfragrant finish, especially those of Chuaoand Porcelana varieties. Highly complexand often unusual. Higher percentages arestill fragrant and not overpowering. Earthy,toasted bread crust, spices and eventobacco can be identified.

◆ Thoroughly enjoyable and indulgent for hot chocolate when theweather isn’t too cold.

◆ Toasted sesame seeds, almonds, hazelnuts, cinnamon,cardamom, nutmeg, Sichuan pepper, mild chilli, and cloves all pair well individually or as mixed flavours.

◆ Woody herbs such as rosemary, thyme, lavender and sagebalance well.

Dominican Republic Strong robust, liquorice, treacle toffee and molasses can often be experienced.Intense long finish and a clear cocoa tastein the mouth.

◆ Think autumn and winter: rich caramel, sticky toffee pudding, hot chocolate sauces, chocolate puddings and rich strong hot chocolate.

◆ Spices work well: warming chilli, black pepper, and cinnamon.◆ Brazil nuts and walnuts add bite and balance.

Grenada Smaller producers mean rarer, interestingvarieties. Increasingly complex flavoursencompass florals, woods and fruits.

◆ Eat on its own to fully appreciate the complex and intriguingflavours. No need to blend or mix with anything.

Ecuador A new favourite of mine with truly uniquecharacteristics including banana,blackberry, hazelnuts and citrus fruits. Adelicate fragrance permeates through tothe nose and an earthy finish rounds thechocolate well. Coffee, vanilla and delicatespices are also present.

◆ Muscovado caramel, concentrated fruit compotes, marmaladesand jams match well.

◆ Pair with gentle spices e.g. pink pepper, green cardamom, cassia,saffron.

◆ Roasted nuts, fresh and dried coconut and tropical fruits allbalance well.

◆ Pot au chocolat, chocolate mousse and soufflé all sparkle.

Trinidad Delicate character. Woody and spicy.Chocolate, grassy and green tastes. Citrusand tropical fruits often present.

◆ Pair with honey, figs and oranges. Think lightly cooked oranges,green tea and fresh green herbs such as basil and coriander.

◆ Cedar wood, sandalwood and pine all match well as do toastednuts and baked pastries and biscuits.

Ghana Bold and robust, not too bitter and adefinite tobacco and coffee edge.

◆ A fantastic baking variety as it has a strong chocolate taste with a hit of cocoa at the end. Great for brownies, coffee andchocolate desserts.

◆ Makes a fantastic, robust, dark chocolate truffle.◆ Great in savoury recipes as it has strength and character.

Variety/origin Characteristics Flavour matches and recipe ideas

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Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas mark 4.

Place the flour, cocoa, salt and butter in a large mixing bowl. Rub between your fingers until the consistency ofbreadcrumbs is reached. Add the sugar and mix well.

Fill a measuring jug with 85ml hot water, then add thecream and eggs. Whisk well. Pour into the dry mixture andmix until smooth.

For the cupcake cases, you can either use shop-boughtpaper cases, or for a more contemporary style, cut 15cmsquares of non-stick baking parchment and scrunch up tightin your hand. Open the scrunchy paper out just enough tofit into your muffin tin. Fill each one three-quarters full withthe cake mix and sprinkle on plenty of cocoa nibs. Bake for12–15 minutes until very springy to the touch. Remove fromthe muffin tray and place on a wire rack to cool.

To make the sugar syrup, bring 200ml water, the sugar andall the spices to a simmer for 5 minutes. Allow to infuse for15 minutes. Strain through a sieve into a jug.

While the cakes are still warm, slowly and gradually feedeach one an even amount of syrup until glossy, allowing thesyrup to soak fully into the cakes. If serving as a plateddessert, save some syrup to drizzle over and around.

FOR THE CAKES

115g self-raising flour

65g dark cocoa powder –Valrhona is my choice butbuy the best qualitypossible1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt

185g unsalted butter

225g unrefinedmuscovado sugar

85ml double cream

2 medium free-range eggs

50g cracked cocoa nibs

FOR THE MAYAN

SPICED SYRUP

200g unrefined goldencaster sugar1⁄2 fresh nutmeg, grated

1 cinnamon stick, brokenin two1⁄4 teaspoon chilli powder

ytiu

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ytiu

Paul’s secret tobaking the perfectchocolate cake

Sugar and Spice

Always use the purestingredients possible and

be brave! Never openthe oven until the

cooking time is up anddon’t overcook as

this will deliver a dry,sandy cake.

uscovado chocolate cakes with cocoa nibs and mayan spiced syrupMy name is Paul A Young and I am a cake-a-holic. I cannot imagine my life without the humble cake,whether it’s for afternoon tea, a quick coffee break or a stolen hour gossiping with friends. Moist andsticky with crunchy cocoa nibs and an aromatic sweet-spiced syrup, these cakes are the perfect dessertserved warm with real vanilla ice cream or cold with rooibos or Earl Grey tea.

Makes 12 large cupcakes

M

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For the pasta dough, place all the ingredients in a foodprocessor and whizz until a soft but firm dough is formed.Alternatively, mix the dough by hand in a large mixing bowl.Wrap in clingfilm and put in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Using a pasta machine, roll the dough into thin sheets andcut out circles using a cutter with a 10cm diameter. If youdon’t have a pasta machine, use a rolling pin. Lay the pastadiscs on a plate and cover. Refrigerate until ready to fill.

To make the filling, cream the butter and sugar in a bowl.Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well.

To fill the pasta, take a pasta disc and wet the edges with eggyolk. Place a teaspoon of the filling in the centre. Fold thedisc over and pinch the edges together to form a half-moonshape. Holding the filled pasta in both hands, with thestraight edge facing down, bring each corner together andpinch, forming a parcel. Store in the fridge until needed.

To make the sauce, zest the oranges using a fine grater. Thensegment the oranges over a bowl so you keep all the juicethat escapes. Place the stock syrup and orange zest and juicein a saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes.Add the cream and simmer for a further minute. Removefrom the heat and add the orange segments.

Bring a large pan of water to a simmer. Drop in the tortelliniand simmer for 3 minutes or until they float on the surface.Remove and drain.

Divide the tortellini between the serving bowls, and spoonover the blood orange sauce and segments. Decorate withtoasted pine nuts and shredded basil.

FOR THE PASTA DOUGH

350g pasta flour (tipo 00)

50g cocoa powder

2 eggs

2 tablespoons cold water

1 tablespoon almond oil(or other nut oil)

FOR THE FILLING

50g butter

50g caster sugar

175ml milk1⁄2 vanilla pod, split andscraped (save the pod forvanilla sugar)

1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk toseal the tortellini

25g plain flour

50g ground almonds

6 amaretti biscuits,crushed

50ml amaretto liqueur

FOR THE BLOOD

ORANGE SAUCE

4 blood oranges

100ml stock syrup (seepage 132)

400ml double cream

TO DECORATE

50g toasted pine nuts

A few basil leaves, thinly sliced

y

Flora and Fauna

lmond and amaretto chocolate tortelliniwith blood orange and pine nutsOne of my all-time favourite pasta recipes and it’s a dessert. The bitter chocolate dough, creamy almondfilling and zesty blood orange balance beautifully to make a really show-stopping pudding. Be creativeand change the filling with the seasons; add herbs, spices and different fruits. The best part is it can all beprepared in advance so can easily be put together for a dinner party.

Serves 4

A

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First make the chocolate liquor. Put 150ml water in asaucepan along with the sugar and bring to a simmer. Allow to rest for 2 minutes. Put the chocolate pieces into a bowl and pour over the sugar syrup. Whisk well and leaveto cool thoroughly.

Meanwhile, place 2 martini glasses in the freezer for at least30 minutes to get the frosted effect.

In a cocktail shaker or jug place the lemon juice, gin, crèmede mur and six of the blackberries. Muddle and mix welluntil the blackberries burst slightly.

Place a pyramid of crushed ice into each glass. Pour over theblackberry mixture, divided between the two glasses.

Now pour over the chocolate liquor to top up, and place a blackberry and a piece of dark chocolate on top of eachice pyramid.

FOR THE CHOCOLATE

LIQUOR

300g unrefined goldencaster sugar

150g 70% dark chocolatepieces

FOR THE REST

Lots of crushed ice

Juice of 1⁄2 lemon

100ml gin – Tanqueray orPlymouth Dry

25ml crème de mur(blackberry liqueur)

8 blackberries

2 squares of your favouritedark chocolate

y

Alcohol

ocoa bramble cocktailI reinvented the classic Bramble cocktail one autumn evening when the air in the city changed fromwarm and balmy to the first cool breeze of the new season. The thought of autumn makes me shiver withexcitement: golden colours, warming ingredients and cosy nights on the sofa with comforting chocolate.

Makes 2 generous cocktails

C

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