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Adjustable Voltage Regulator
Published: September 19, 2009
Adjustable Voltage Regulator
by Rich Dumas
Disclaimer
While reasonable attempts have been made to verify information provided in this
article, the author will not be responsible for errors, omissions or contrary
interpretation of the subject matter contained herein. Working with electricity, power
tools and hand tools is inherently dangerous and can result in serious injury or death.
The reader is solely responsible for following applicable safety guidelines and
precautions when working with electricity, power tools and hand tools. The reader
assumes ALL liability for any damages which may result from use of the material
contained in this article.
Introduction
Having an adjustable voltage regulator for each lane lets you tune the lanes for equal
lap times and to tame those overpowered cars. An added bonus is that it also adds
voltage regulation if your power supply does not have it. This article describes how to
fabricate your own adjustable voltage regulator including a list of parts required.
Description
At the heart of this project is a LM 338T voltage regulator. The LM 338 has an
internal current limiting circuit to keep the current to a maximum of 5 amps. For most
1/32 slot car racing applications, 5 amps should be sufficient (particularly if you plan
to provide a separate voltage regulator for each lane of your track). A regulator with
greater capacity could be used or two LM 338s could be wired in parallel to increase
the current capacity. The maximum input voltage is 40 volts. Other key points to note
about the adjustable voltage regulator are listed below.
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The minimum output voltage is 1.24 volts. There is a 1.6 volt drop across the
regulator, so the input voltage has to be 1.6 volts higher than the highest voltage that
you would want out. For example, to get a 10 volt output, you would have to set the
input voltage at 11.6. You can use the voltage meter on your power supply to adjust
the input voltage or if more precision is desired, use a multimeter.
To protect against reverse connection a 6 amp diode could be placed between the plus
input and pin 1 of the LM 338T. The input voltage would have to be increased to
compensate for the 0.7 volt drop across the diode.
If the power supply is not filtered it would be a good idea to put a 2200 F 35 volt
polarized capacitor across the plus and minus inputs. The minus side of a polarized
capacitor is the one that is marked with a stripe.
Parts List
All of the parts except for the LM 338T and the 1F capacitor are available from
Radio Shack. Radio Shack part numbers are shown in parenthesis.
LM 338T adjustable voltage regulator
1F 35 volt polarized electrolytic capacitor
5K ohm linear taper potentiometer (RS# 271-1714)
470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor (RS# 271-1133)
150 ohm 1/2 watt resistor (RS# 271-1109)
0.1F 50 volt ceramic disc capacitor (RS# 272-135)
Perfboard (RS# 276-1395)
heat sink (RS# 276-1363)
knob (RS# 274-407)
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Top row: 5 K ohm potentiometer, heat sink
Bottom row: resistors, 0.1F capacitor, 1F polarized capacitor, LM 338T
A circuit diagram for the adjustable voltage regulator is shown below. Please note, to
simplify the diagram the locations of pins 2 and 3 on the LM 338 have been switched.
When you fabricate the adjustable voltage regulator, the middle pin (2) will be
connected to the plus (+) output.
A 150 ohm and a 470 ohm resistor are wired in series to get 620 ohms. The wires from
the plus input to pin 1, pin 2 to the plus outlet and from the minus in to the minus out
should be at least 16 gauge. The other wires do not carry any significant amount of
current so smaller gauge wire can be used.
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Here is a picture of the completed adjustable voltage regulator.
Further Enhancements
Several additional enhancements can be easily incorporated into the adjustable voltage
regular shown in this article. Here are a couple of examples:
A small panel mount voltage display could be wired into the output side of the
circuit. This would provide a visual indication of the output voltage as the
adjustment knob (potentiometer) is turned.
The adjustable voltage regulator could easily be mounted/packaged inside a
small plastic project box.
Summary
While it is possible to fabricate an adjustable voltage regulator using diodes and a
rotary switch, the design above is much more robust and offers a far greater range of
adjustment. If you are comfortable with a soldering item, this is not a difficult project.
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The completed adjustable voltage regulator can add a great deal of flexibility to any
slot car layout. Here are just a few examples:
Adjusting lane voltage (generally downward) for new and/or inexperienced
racers. This is particularly helpful for younger racers.
Matching lane voltage to the cars/motors being run. Some cars run better at
higher/lower voltages than other type of cars/motors.
Adjusting lane voltage for magnet and non-magnet cars. Magnet cars can
generally be run at higher voltages than non-magnet cars.
Equalizing lane performance. On most layouts, there are varying degrees of
difference between lanes. Some lanes are faster (maybe because they are shorter
or less technical) while other lanes are slower. Lane voltage can be adjusted to
"normalize" performance as measured by lap times. Equalizing lap times
generally leads to closer racing.
About the Author
Rich Dumas is an active member of the Shoreline Model Raceways club in southern
Connecticut (United States). Rich is a frequent contributor to many of the Slot Car
Illustrated forums.
Discuss this article in the Forum!
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