ade to care - merckgroup.com · for acne, skin barrier dysfunction, and skin aging. her current...

ADE TO

CARE March 19th - 20th, 2019Darmstadt, Germany

Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019

Beate Anniés, Head of Cosmetic Solutions, Merck Performance Materials

“I am delighted to take part in this international indus-try-lead forum organised by Merck, Germany. The con-

ference brings together new research and clinical practice to foster innovation and advance the area of skin health

and topical skincare across diverse portfolio of personal care and pharmaceutical industries.”

Dr. Katerina Steventon, skincare consultant and facial massage therapist

“Dermocosmetics has the potential to meet a vast range of needs related to wellbeing and health. And since curiosity has always been

the driving force at Merck―throughout our history dating back three and a half centuries―this year we’re very pleased to offer you yet anoth-

er attractive platform devoted to the scientific pursuit of dermocosmetic solutions for protecting sensitive skin and nurturing its natural beauty.”

Lilia Heider, Head of the Organization Committee

2

We’re proud to announce the upcoming 4th DermoCosmetics Forum in Darmstadt, Germany!

More and more people are realizing that the secret to true beauty is healthy skin, and the dermocosmetics market is surging worldwide as a result. This is a good reason to take a closer look at the science behind it. The ultimate goal, of course, is to develop outstanding products that will continue to meet high expectations in the future. We are acknowledged leaders in the dermocosmet-ics field, with solid competencies and expertise in quality control, toxicology, production, and reg-ulatory topics. Our goal is for a large number of top scientists from around the globe to at-tend and discuss both currents trends and the future of dermocosmetics. It’s a prime opportunity for you to share information on recent research findings, discuss new ideas, and satisfy your own curiosity about a wide range of topics related to the theory and practice of der-mocosmetics, including economic and health aspects.

I’m looking forward to welcom-ing you here in Darmstadt on March 19!

HOW TO REGISTER?To register for the 4th DermoCosmetics Forum, please go to our website: http://www.cvent.com/d/0bqmbtThere you’ll find a summary of the most important information, in addition to a button for accessing the registration form.


CONFERENCE INFORMATION AT A GLANCE

3

The 4th DermoCosmetics Forum at a GlanceThe first DermoCosmetics Forum back in 2013 was in-spired by the wish to merge pharmaceutical research with the needs of the cosmetics in-dustry: translational cosmet-ics. It was such a resounding success that we have per-petuated the tradition. It has meanwhile become a regular industry institution that takes place every other year for top scientists and others from all over the world to gather, swap ideas, inspire one another, and satisfy their curiosity. At this year’s conference as well, we want to fuel the discussion about dermocosmetics and share knowledge, informa-tion and opinions about the latest trends. One important aim this time around is to ex-plore innovative approaches for treating demanding skin

that has become visibly irri-tated as a result of exposure or changes in its microbiome. Overall, we’re sure that these events are making a major contribution to progress in this increasingly vital field. If you deal with dermocosmetics, as a researcher or a practitioner, you won’t want to miss this year’s edition!

More Reasons to Attend We are uniquely positioned to organize this event, owing to our scientific background, our 350 years of experience, and our leadership in the field of dermocosmetics. Our creden-tials include:• Comprehensive efficacy stud-

ies of cosmetic ingredients• Support for drafting nation-

al and international regula-tions

• Standardized product quali-ty and production processes

that comply with the good manufacturing practices of the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI)

• Extensive documentation• Global expertise in the

chemical and pharmaceuti-cal industries with a focus on meeting regional needs

We also invite you to go on an exclusive tour of our labora-tory to see our researchers in action.

If you work in marketing, R&D, or use of dermocosmet-ics and cosmetics and need to keep up with the latest devel-opments in these fields, you shouldn’t miss the opportuni-ty to attend this key event!

LOCATION: MeRCK HQThe event will take place in Building B4 of Merck’s global headquarters in Darmstadt, Germany.

3


ADDITIONAL EVENTS

4

skin and its components and processes in a way you may never have witnessed before. The exhibits shows solutions, formulations and tools along with detailed information on the ingredients used and how applications are developed. The topics covered include the skin microbiome, the effect of insect repellent, and protec-tion from harmful light radia-tions.

Poster ShowIn connection with the mar-ketplace, you have the oppor-tunity to walk around and look at a number of posters about the R&D work that Merck and its partners are currently con-ducting.

Laboratory TourIn connection with the 2019 DermoCosmetics Forum, at-tendees will have a rare op-portunity to visit our labora-tories. You get to peek behind the scenes, meet and watch our scientists and technicians at work, and learn about our research methods, state-of-the-art equipment, technol-ogies, and high standards of scientific endeavor. Please keep in mind that if you are interested in going on a labo-ratory tour, you should let us know well in advance because only a limited number of spac-es are available.

Exhibition We have created our market-place to give you a hands-on experience of many of the topics that will be discussed in the Forum. Leading-edge virtual reality visualizes the


SELECTED SPEAKERS

5

Katerina Steventon, skincare consultant and facial massage therapist in private practiceAfter training as a beauty therapist, Dr. Katerina Steven-ton earned an MSc in clinical biochemistry (self-tanning) and a PhD with a thesis on transdermal absorption of phy-toestrogens in postmenopausal skin, and since then has gained deep clinical, commercial and research experience

in the skincare field with particular emphasis on facial skincare. Her achieve-ments include the formulation of hybrid anti-aging serums that reached the finals of the 2017 and 2018 Pure Beauty Awards. Dr. Steventon has worked for prestigious brands including Shiseido, La Prairie, Oriflame, Unilever and Smith & Nephew Wound Management. Today she consults for academia, the skincare industry and retailers and writes for trade journals, in addition to running her own private practice specialized in natural touch-based therapies for acne, skin barrier dysfunction, and skin aging. Her current research inter-ests include facial mapping, appearance and wellbeing, difficult-to-treat skin types, nutrition, mindfulness and relaxation.

Karl Lintner, CEO of KAL’IDEES ConsultingDr. Karl Lintner earned an undergraduate degree in chem-ical engineering and a PhD in biochemistry from the Vi-enna University of Technology. He then spent a decade researching biological peptides at the Nuclear Research Center in Saclay, France, publishing more than 30 papers. Dr. Lintner then went to work for the Henkel Company in

Düsseldorf, Germany, advancing to the role of Marketing Manager. Later he joined Sederma as its Technical Director before taking the helm for 10 years as the Managing Director and CEO, also winning a number of awards for de-veloping innovative active ingredients for cosmetics. Dr. Lintner now teaches cosmetic chemistry and skin biology at the ISIPCA school of Perfumery, Cos-metics and Aroma in Versailles and is the CEO of KAL’IDEES Consulting.

Cornelia Keck, Pharmacist and Professor at Philipps University in Marburg, GermanyDr. Cornelia Keck is a pharmacist and Professor of Pharma-ceutics and Biopharmaceutics at the Philipps -University in Marburg/Germany. Her field of research is the development of innovative formulation strategies for improved delivery of pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical actives. Special focus

is the application of nanocarriers, e.g. lipid nanoparticles and nanocrystals, in dermal formulations. Prof. Keck is active member in various scientific soci-eties and member of the BfR Cosmetics Commission at the Federal Institute of Risk Assessment.


SELECTED SPEAKERSHolger Seidel, Senior Technical Development Manager at Azelis Personal CareDr. Holger Seidel earned a PhD in applied and technical chemistry from the University of Duisburg-Essen. Since going to work for the cosmetics industry 20 years ago, he has held various positions in sales and R&D. Currently he teaches at the Cologne University of Applied Sciences and

holds the position of Senior Technical Development Manager for personal care products at the Azelis Group with responsibility for coordinating the activities of its laboratories across Europe. Dr. Seidel has published a large number of scientific papers.

Markus Egert, Professor at Furtwangen UniversityDr. Markus Egert studied biology and earned a PhD in molec-ular microbial ecology. After spending several years work-ing for the hygiene and cosmetics industry, he became a Professor for Microbiology and Hygiene in the Medical and Life Sciences Department of Furtwangen University in Ger-many. Dr. Egert’s research activities focus on microflora

that inhabit the human microbiome. In August 2018 he published a popular science book on domestic human-microbe interactions titled ”Ein Keim kom-mt selten allein” (Germs love company).

Jörg von Hagen, Head of Cosmetics R&D at Merck KGaAProf. Dr. Jörg von Hagen studied biotechnology engineer-ing at the Giessen University of Applied Sciences in Ger-many and then earned his PhD with an award-winning thesis. After joining Merck, he served as the Head of Cell Culture Media R&D and then Director of Biopharmaceu-tical Materials and Technologies; now he is the Head of

R&D Cosmetic Actives in Darmstadt. Prof. von Hagen has gained more than 30 years of practical experience in signal transduction, proteomics, biotechnology, biopharmaceutical production and cell culture media de-velopment. He teaches signal transduction, while focusing on immunology and apoptosis in molecular cell biology and proteomics, at the University of Salzburg in Austria and the University of Applied Sciences in Giessen.

Thomas Broschard, Head of Chemical Toxicology Cosmetics at Merck KGaADr. Thomas Broschard studied food chemistry at the Uni-versity of Kaiserslautern in Germany and wrote his doctor-al thesis at the German Cancer Research Center (DKFZ) in Heidelberg on the chemical carcinogenesis of a plant ingre-dient. After holding postdoctoral research positions in Stras-

bourg and Karlsruhe, Dr. Broschard began his career in the cosmetic industry as a toxicologist in 1998, initially at Henkel. In 2000, he joined Merck’s Toxi-cology/Chemical and Preclinical Safety Department in Darmstadt. Today he is the company’s Head of Chemical Toxicology. His special interest is the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients using alternative and novel methodology.

6


AGENDA: MARCH 19, 2019

7

Time Topic Speaker Company

13:00 - 13:15 Welcome and organizational information B. Anniés Merck KGaA, Germany

13:15 - 14:00 Skin Microbiota and Skin Barrier Function: Essential Factors in Reducing Skin Sensitivity

K. Lintner KAL’idées, France

14:00 - 14:15 Dermocosmetics: Market Update L. Heider Merck KGaA, Germany

14:15 - 14:45 Safety of Dermocosmetics: Current Developments and Challenges of Alternative Methods

T. Broschard Merck KGaA, Germany

14:45 - 15:05 Cosmetic Claims: an Increasing Regulatory Challenge; aMicrobiome-Friendly Pre- and Probiotics

I. Höfgen-Müller Merck KGaA, Germany

15:05 - 15:50 Coffee Break – Poster Show and Marketplace

15:50 - 16:20 in-vitro Aging of Skin Fibroblasts: Alterations of Antioxidant Gene Expression aand the Metabolism of the Lipid Peroxidation Product 4-Hydroxynonenal

P. Eckl Uni Salzburg, Austria

16:20 - 16:40 Powerful Antioxidants to Enforce Skin Defense M. Lefort Merck KGaA, Germany

16:40 - 17:10 Trendy Formulations to Soothe Sensitive Skin H. Seidel Azelis, Germany

17:10 - 17:20 Closing Remarks

17:30 Bus Transfer to Hotel

19:30 Invitation to dinner in the „4 Cani” restaurant, Am Fürstenbahnhof 3-4, 64293 Darmstadt


AGENDA: MARCH 20, 2019

8

Time Topic Speaker Company

08:45- 09:00 Organizational information

09:00 - 09:30 Dermocosmetics for Sensitive Skin C. Keck Uni Marburg, Germany

09:30 - 10:00 RonaCare® Ectoin to Reduce Protein Carbonylation (CP) V. Bicard - Benhamou Merck KGaA, Germany

10:00 - 10:30 The Microbiome: Findings and Learnings M. Egert Uni Furtwangen, Germany

10:30 - 11:15 Coffee Break – Poster Show and Marketplace

11:15 - 11:45 From Molecular Dynamics to Biological Functions J. von Hagen Merck KGaA, Germany

11:45 - 12:15 Dermocosmetics and Inflammation J. Lademann Charité, Germany

12:15 - 12:45 Sensitive Skin and Atopic Dermatitis (AD): How to Deal with Them Cosmetically S. Motta Uni Bologna, Italy

12:45 - 13:15 The Science of Massage for Different Skin Types K. Steventon Independent Skincare, United Kingdom

13:15 - 13:30 Summary & Closing Remarks

13:30 - 14:30 Lunch

14:45 - 16:15 Visit to the lab and Innovation Center (optional; limited capacity!) J. von Hagen Merck KGaA, Germany


ABSTRACTS

9

Katerina Steventon: “The Science of Massage for Different Skin Types”The sensory properties of skincare products enhance the perceived wellbeing that results from their use. When developing new products, it is therefore im-portant to understand how an individual’s skin type, age and ethnicity can affect their experience of being massaged and how different touch techniques can im-pact skin biology. Cultures around the world approach touch differently, and skincare techniques therefore need to respect the integrity of the skin barrier in each case in order to provide overall positive benefits for the human body, strengthen the connection be-tween the skin and the brain, and increase wellbeing.

Karl Lintner: “Skin Microbiota and Skin Barrier Function: Essential Factors in Reducing Skin Sensitivity”Although the connection between the skin’s barrier function and its sensitivity is generally recognized, it was only recently discovered that microbial colo-nization can positively or negatively affect the prob-lems associated with sensitive skin. This presenta-tion explores how cosmetic products and ingredients can modulate these interactions, while also covering regulatory issues around probiotics and the use of microbes in cosmetic products, as well as the risks

associated with pseudo-medical claims.

Holger Seidel: “Trendy Formulations to Soothe Sensitive Skin”Popular formulations for soothing sensitive skin either consistently avoid certain substances and/or attempt to alleviate symptoms with suitable active ingredients. This presentation covers recent trends such as eco-friendly cosmetics, personalized cosmet-ics etc., as well as the need to optimize performance with regard to skin feel, flow properties, stability, etc.

Cornelia Keck: “Dermocosmetics for Sensitive Skin”The talk addresses the current state of the art in anti-aging research, where special focus is put on status quo and in anti-aging cosmetics and future trends in dermocosmetics. Questions, e.g. “What is aging?”, “What anti-aging strategies are available today?” and “Which anti-aging trends are expected to come?” will be answered. Markus Egert: “The Microbiome: Findings and Learnings”The human skin is home to millions of microorgan-isms that are collectively referred to as the human


ABSTRACTS

10

skin microbiome or microbiota. There is strong ev-idence that the structure and function of this mi-crobial community profoundly impact human health and wellbeing, making it an obvious target for cos-metic applications. Although the functional details are still inadequately understood, this presentation provides food for thought on how cosmetic applica-tions could take aim at the human skin microbiome.

Lilia Heider: “Dermocosmetics: Market Update”The dermocosmetics market is currently fueled by consumers’ increasing preference for products that prevent problems and foster health and wellbeing. This, together with the fact that consumers are now much more knowledgeable than before, is driving demand for more effective products. This presenta-tion provides an update on the current market situ-ation and its potential for generating more innova-tions and opportunities in this market.

Thomas Broschard: “Safety of Dermocosmet-ics: Current Developments and Challenges of Alternative Methods”Alternative methods have made considerable head-way over the last decade, driven partly by the ban on selling animal-tested cosmetics imposed by the EU regulation on cosmetics but even more by new

standards of animal welfare, the trend toward sus-tainability, and especially the increasingly respon-sible attitude of industry. The safety of some cos-metic ingredients can already be reliably assessed with alternative approaches, however, the avail-able methods are still insufficient for consistently meeting registration requirements. This presenta-tion will provide an overview on the status quo of alternative methods and address open issues, where further improvement is needed.

Ina Höfgen-Müller: “Cosmetic Claims, a Grow-ing Regulatory Challenge; Microbiome-Friend-ly Pre- and Probiotics”A wide range of claims are made about cosmetic products. Whether all these are typical cosmetic claims or borderline to medical devices or even pharmaceuticals always has to be investigated on a case-by-case basis. The claim and the product category finally determine the regulatory require-ments for a dermocosmetic product. Outside the EU other borderline categories may be applicable in addition. Although some official Guidelines ex-ist making use of the right claim is a challenge.

Marina Lefort: “Powerful Antioxidants to Re-inforce Skin Defense”

An effective barrier function is essential for healthy, attractive skin. However, many endogenous or ex-ogenous factors can damage or weaken it and in-duce dysbiosis of the skin microbiota, for example by oxidative processes. The use of multifunctional antioxidants in protective cosmetics provides ap-pealing options for reinforcing skin’s natural defense and supporting skin homeostasis.

Valérie Bicard-Benhamou: “RonaCare® Ectoin to Reduce Protein Carbonylation (CP)”Protein carbonylation is the most commonly used biomarker for identifying severe oxidative protein damage. It can be caused by exposure to radiation, chemical stress, or dehydration. This may lead to skin hyperpigmentation or yellowing and enhance pore visibility. RonaCare® Ectoin has been shown to confer outstanding protection against protein car-bonylation caused by blue light, UV-A, chemical ac-tion, and dehydration in various models (e.g. in vit-ro and ex vivo).

Jörg von Hagen: “From Molecular Dynamics to Biological Functions”This presentation shows how Merck developed a bi-omimetic product based on the composition of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), with in silico stud-


ABSTRACTS

11

ies of molecular dynamics and in vivo testing. NMF ingredients were analyzed in human skin using RA-MAN spectroscopy and applied to simulate and op-timize a China-compliant composition derived from natural molecules, and its functionality confirmed in vivo and in situ with noninvasive RAMAN spec-troscopy.

Stefania Motta: “Sensitive and Atopic Skin: Treatment with Cosmetics”The main external factors involved in triggering sensitive and atopic skin are cosmetics, water, pol-lution, detergents, and emotional stress. Around 40% of consumers suffer from one or both of these conditions. There is therefore a need to develop special cosmetic products that prevent or allevi-ate them, in the form of creams without emulsifi-ers, surfactant-free detergents, ointments contain-ing hydrophilic and/or polymeric ingredients and breathable foundations.

Jürgen Lademann: “Dermocosmetics and Inflammation”The causes of inflammatory processes in skin vary. In order to develop effective therapeutic and care products, it is necessary to identify the stages of inflammatory processes. All inflammations damage

the skin barrier and produce high concentrations of free radicals and bacteria. Two examples are pre-sented to illustrate the use of dermocosmetics for preventing or alleviating them.

Peter Eckl: “in-vitro Aging of Skin Fibroblasts: Alterations of Antioxidant Gene Expression and the Metabolism of the Lipid Peroxidation Product 4-Hydroxynonenal”Primary human fibroblasts from foreskin were cultured until senescence and the expression of antioxidant enzymes (SOD 1-3, the enzymes of the glutathione metabolism, and glutathinone-S- transferase), followed by analysis of the enzymes involved in the metabolism of aldehydes (derived from oxidative breakdown of two membrane lipids, cytochromes P450 and aldehyde dehydrogenase). The response to 4-hydroxynonenal (HNE), the most important lipid peroxidation product derived from ω-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids, was also inves-tigated. The main findings were that the metabo-lism of HNE decreases with in vitro age, the tox-icity of HNE increases, and expression of some of the studied enzymes is altered (either increased or decreased).

AccommodationsA block of


ORGANIZATIONAL INFO.

12

How to Register for the DermoCosmetics ForumPlease go to our registration website at http://www.cvent.com/d/0bqmbt. It contains a sum-mary of the most important information and a but-ton for the registration form.

AccommodationsA block of rooms has been reserved for attendees at the Maritim Hotel in Darmstadt. As soon as your registration is confirmed, you will receive a refer-ence number for contacting the hotel anytime until February 22, 2019 to book a room.

Address:Maritim HotelRheinstraße 10564295 DarmstadtGermanyPhone: +49 (0) 6151 8782190Email: [email protected]

Transportation between the hotel and the con-ference venueTo make your stay with us as comfortable as possi-ble, we are organizing bus transportation between the hotel and Merck headquarters.

12

Products are warranted to meet the specifications set forth on their label/packaging and/or certificate of analysis at the time of shipment or for the expressly stated duration. Merck pro-vides information and advice on application technologies and relevant regulations based upon its current knowledge and opinion. MERCK MAKES NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR USE REGARDING OUR PRODUCTS, THEIR APPLICATION OR ANY INFORMATION PROVIDED IN CONNECTION THEREWITH. Merck shall not in any event be liable for incidental, consequential, indirect, exemplary or special damages of any kind resulting from any use or failure of the products. Customer is responsible for and must independently determine the suitability of Merck´s products for its products, intended use and processes. The foregoing information and suggestions are also provided without warranty of non-infringement as to intellectual property rights of third parties and shall not be construed as any inducement to in-fringe the rights of third parties. Customer shall be responsible for obtaining any applicable third party intellectual property licenses. All sales are subject to Merck’s complete Terms and Conditions of Sale. Prices are subject to change without notice. Merck reserves the right to discontinue products without prior notice.

Merck, the vibrant M and RonaCare are trademarks of Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany or its affiliates. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

CONTACT INFORMATION

Organizational matters:Nadine Propf Email: [email protected]: + 49 6151 72-20704

Accommodations and transportation to the conference:Susanne Wenig Email: [email protected]: +49 6151 72-6618

Conference agenda:Ann-Kathrin Heyden Email: [email protected]: +49 6151 72-24367

ADE TO

CARE

ade to care - merckgroup.com · for acne, skin barrier dysfunction, and skin aging. her current...

Documents