acne vc comedogenesis and treatment

8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment

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Dr Philippe Deprez Policlínica Estética & anti aging

P h d @ e s t e t i k . c o m

Port Grec, 40, pb

17487 Empuriabrava - España

Tel +34 972 45 01 51 Fax: + 34 972 45 23 23

http://www.estetik.com/centres/cmeempur.htm

Easy TCA vs Easy Phytic

Purifying vs Purigel





What is Acne

Acne is a multifactorial and dynamicprocess involving the whole

pilosebaceous unit.(PSU)



Comedo vs acne genesis

Comedogenesis:Compact non inflammatory hyperkeratosis of the

PSU

precedes acnegenesis

Acnegenesis

Inflammation of PSU after clogging of dead

corneocytes closing the PSU.Infection.

Pustules and papules appear.

WhatHappens ?



PSU hyperactivity

Excretion of lipids is controlled hormonally:

5 alpha reductase sensitive cells to Testosterone

produce more sebum than they can eliminate.LH pic after ovulation can produce the same effect.

Oxidation of fatty acids produce inflammation and Free

radicals reactions => vicious circle.



Keratinization problems

The keratinization process in the lower part of PSU is the samethan in skin surface.

Maturation of these keratinocytes and elimination into the PSU

begins the comedogenesis because keratinocytes of acnepatients tend to stick together ( due to + and - electric chargesand the high production of sebum ) .

This blocks the pores and produce

the "blackheads" if the pore is still openor the "white head" if the pore is closed and infected.



Bacteries invasion and body

reaction

Dead cells and sebum is a greatnutritional source for Bacteries.Skin immunity acts andproduces an inflammatoryreaction: the typically "pimple".

The exact role of bacteries is notcompletely understood but itseems that bacterian lipasesbreak sebum triglycerides and

the oxidation of free fattyacids can produceinflammation throughinflammatory mediators.



Treatment should consist in:



Normalization of Keratinization

and exfoliation

Purifying cream contains pure retinol micro-encapsulated in cyclodextrins.

Purigel contains salicylic acid and Burdock

Burdock extracts (Arctium Majus):keratinization normalization

Salicylic acid acid is keratolytic



Reduce Bacteries Proliferation

Benzoyl peroxide acts against bacteries producing a

strong free radicals production that can damage the

skin after long term treatment. Antibiotics can be indicated if necessary, but 60% of

patients exhibit multi-antibiotic resistance

Purifying cream: Tea tree oil and Triclosan

(cyclodextrines) can achieve this goal

Purigel: contains Triclosan (cyclodextrines) and

Burdock (bacteriostatic)



Unclog pores

AHA and Retinol can unclog pores but

comedones extraction should be performedat the beginning of the treatment.

Purifying: contains AHA and retinol incyclodextrines

Purigel contains salicylic acid: comedolytic



Limit the inflammatory response

of the body

Purifying contains: Tea tree oil and triclosan incyclodextrines and tocopherol Tea tree oil and Triclosan

have anti inflammatory propertiesTocopherol acetate can fight againstoxidation by scavenging FRO production andlimiting oxidative damage and vicious circle.

Purigel Contains Burdock extracts acid which isantiinflammatory



Moisturizing

Skin dryness have been reported as an important

factor in exacerbating active acne.

Glycyrrhetinic acid and glycolic acid are able to

moisturize the skin.

Purifying contians glycyrrhetinic acid and glycolic acid



Decrease the level of sebum

production

Hormonal stabilization

Use of topical or general retinoids ( tretinoin orisotretinoin )

Use of thiol derivatives: Purigel containsTHIOSOME (Methionin and cysteine

compound) that reduces sebum production



Globally

Skin Tech Purifying cream is strongly disinfectantand keratolytic

Purifying is used between peelings and 2 weeks

after last peel

Purigel is strongly disinfectant and reduces PSU(Pilo Sebaceous Units) hyperactivity

Purigel is used as a long term maintenancetreatment



Tips

Facial cleansing should be gently achieved with "Skintech cleanser foam". No vigorous rubbing.

Avoid exposition to sun and sunbeds. ( sun producesan anti inflammatory result but also an higherproduction of sebum and keratin.

More, sun lowers immunitary defenses of the skin )Sun may darken the final colour of acne scars

Comedones extraction done with comedone extractor



Purifying vs purigel

PURIFYING CREAM

Crème de soins journaliers inter peelings

Ac glycolique (8%) adoucit la peau – évitel’occlusion des pores - stimule leturnover épidermique - pH 4

Rétinol = Précurseur de la trétinoine, draineles unites pilo sébacées.

Vit E : tocopheryl acetate : anti radical libre,rompt le cercle vicieux oxydation -inflammation

Triclosan : antiseptique -anti inflammatoire-antimycotique

Acide glycyrrhétinique : hydrate, anti prurit,anti allergique

Tea tree oil: extrait d’arbuste australien,aussi actif que le benzoyl peroxyde maissans effet pro oxydant

Anti bactérien, anti virus – antimycotique – anti inflammatoire

PURIGEL

Gel non gras : soins journaliers a longterme

Thiosome : réduit la production de sébum

Burdock extracts :action anti acnéique directeanti inflammatoireanti bacterienkeratolytique

Triclosan : antiseptique -anti inflammatoire-antimycotique

Acide salicylique : Evite l’occlusion despores

Menthol/camphor : sensation derafraîchissement cutané

During peels Maintenance



Time line

1st ETCA

session

2nd 3rd 4th ETCA

session

8 days 8 days 8 days 6 weeks regeneration

Purifying cream Purigel

http://www.skintech.info/



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oliclínica Estética & anti aging

Dr Philippe Deprez

Academy of Medical Sciences - Bucuresti

Honour member

Port Grec, 40, pb

17487 Empuriabrava - España

Tel +34 972 45 01 51 Fax: + 34 972 45 23 23


[email protected]

Thank you

For

Your attention

Ed Informa Health CareEnglish version (450pp) Korean version (600pp):

See on www.estetik.com

mailto:[email protected]



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acne vc comedogenesis and treatment

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