documenta

A Report on Textile Manufacturing Process at BSL Ltd, Mandapam, Bhilwara

Submitted By: Prateek Saksena,Ravi Shankar Jha,Sumit Verma,Ujjwal Surin,Vishal Saurav Runda, NIFT BANGALORE

1

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

REPORT

The textile manufacturing process at

Submitted By:

Prateek Saksena

Ravi Shankar Jha

Sumit Verma

Ujjwal Surin

Vishal Saurav Runda

B.F.Tech (Apparel

Production)

National Institute of Fashion Technology,

Bangalore



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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

A lot of hard work is applied to complete this project. Many people helped us during this project

duration so that it can be completed satisfactorily.

We are extremely grateful to Mr.K.M.Kogata, Manager(P&A), BSL for giving us opportunity

and mentoring us to carry out our study in the organization.

We would also like to thank Mr. B.L.Kumawat, Mr.A.K.Jain, Mr.S.Sengupta, Mr. P.R.Singh(

Spinning Department), , Mr.Manoj Gupta, Mr. D.B. Muley (Weaving Department) , Mr. A.

Zaroo (Processing Department), Mr. S.L. Somani (Top Dyeing Department ) , Mr. S.G. Moghe

(Design & Development Department ), Mr. V.B.Arora (Marketing Department) for guiding us

during our project at their department and giving their valuable inputs.

We are also thankful to Mr. P.K.Dholpuria, Mr.G.L.Joshi, Mr.K.G Sen, Mr.K.S.Baghael,

Mr.Chaturvedi, Mr.Tripathi and Dr.Kusum Bhatt for helping us during our training and project

preparation.

We would also like to express our gratitude to our faculty member Mr.Arivoli N. at National

Institute of Fashion Technology, Bangalore to guide and give us feedback on our textile

internship.

Last, but not the least, we would like to thank the supervisors and operators who helped us to

understand the working of various machinery throughout our study.

Thank You

Prateek Saksena

Ravi Shankar Jha

Sumit Verma

Ujjwal Surin

Vishal Saurav Runda



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Contents

S.No Contents Pg.No

1. Introduction 4 - 6

2. Company Profile 7 - 13

3. Spinning 14 - 29

4. Statistical Quality Control 30 - 31

5. Weaving 32 - 47

6. Processing & Top Dyeing 48 - 68

7. Design development and marketing 69 - 77

8. Conclusion 78 - 80



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INTRODUCTION



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1.1 INTRODUCTION

Textile manufacturing is one of largest business operations taking place in India. It is

based in the conversion of three types of fibre into yarn, then fabric, then textiles. These

are then fabricated into clothes or other artifacts.

Cotton remains the most important natural fibre, so is treated in depth. There are many

variable processes available at the spinning and fabric-forming stages coupled with the

complexities of the finishing and colouration processes to the production of wide ranges

of products. There remains a large industry that uses hand techniques to achieve the same

results. It gives employment to a very large population of the country next only to

agriculture.

The thrust area of the internship was to learn the complete production process of textile

manufacturing.

Our training at BSL, Mandapam helped us gain the practical knowledge of the textile

manufacturing. The process of production extending for spinning of fibres, their

conversion to fabric, processing and dyeing process were more fascinating than it looked

in the books.

This internship, we hope will help in developing us as better garment manufacturing

professional as the knowledge of textile is pivotal in making good garment

manufacturing professional. This internship has given us the required confidence to face

the various situations arising in a work place.

This report is a brief of the processes of textile manufacturing that we observed and learnt

during our Duration at BSL, Mandapam.



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1.2 STATEMENT OF STUDY

To study the textile manufacturing process and the process of conversion of fiber to

fabric.

1.3 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY

This study will provide us with an in-depth knowledge of the production of fabric from

fiber, the machineries used and the latest technology used in the textile manufacturing

process.

1.4 OBJECTIVES

To study the organisational structure of an integrated textile mill.

To study the processes of spinning, weaving & processing of textile.

To study the equipments & machineries installed at the textile mill.

To study the various activities of marketing division of the unit.



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COMPANY PROFILE



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2.1 COMPANY PROFILE

In the days when the idea of manufacturing poly-viscose suiting was a unique concept in

India, the second member of the LNJ Bhilwara Group, BSL Ltd., was born in 1971 in

Bhilwara, Rajasthan. Over the years, with the belief that there are no shortcuts to

excellence, at BSL have moved from strength to strength.

Today, as a multi-million dollar company, and having put the Group firmly on the

international map of premium suitings, they are one of the prominent members of the

US$ 363 million LNJ Bhilwara Group. The labels of BSL Ltd. are Geoffrey Hammonds

(men’s) and Shakuntalam (women’s).

With over quarter of a century of experience in textile manufacturing, BSL is currently

producing over 12 million meters of fabric every year. Product profile covers material

ranging from wool, wool-blended and premium lightweight fabrics, to wool modal,

Trevira wool and other specialised fabrics blended with Lycra, Silk, Linen etc.

Commitment to quality through technology and human ingenuity, has earned BSL

numerous awards like the National Certificate of Merit for outstanding export

performance.

BSL, products are manufactured under IS/ISO 9001-2008 the quality management

system in accordance with IS//ISO-9001-2008 and this unit is accredited with

Environmental management system IS/ISO 14001-2004. Recently BSL Limited has

bagged second position in textile sector for Energy Conservation award – 2011, a citation

and shield was given away by the Chief Minister, Govt. Of Rajasthan in a ceremonial

function on 14.12.2011 on National Energy Conservation Day.



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Board of Directors

Arun Churiwal (Chairman & Managing Director)

Ravi Jhunjhunwala

Shekhar Agarwal

Salil Bhandari

Sushil Kumar Churiwala

Sushil Jhunjhunwala

A. N. Choudhary

Nivedan Churiwal (Executive Director)

ADVISOR R. N. Gupta

BUSINESS HEAD J. C. Soni

CFO & CO. SECRETARY & COMPLIANCE OFFICER

Praveen Jain TEL. NO. : 01482-246801 TO 246806

FAX NO. : 01482-246157

E-MAIL : [email protected]



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2.1.2 QUALITY CONCIOUSNESS

The quality standards at BSL set the benchmark in textiles industry both in India and

abroad.

Quality consciousness is not limited merely to the department of quality control; it

stretches over every product and the entire manufacturing process.

Skilled technical managers and staff of every department are experts, who

understand the critical importance of progressively higher standards of quality in

today's competitive environment.

Raw materials such as fibers, yarns, dyes and chemicals are thoroughly tested

before they enter the manufacturing process. Every stage of the production line

has its own set of comprehensive monitoring systems.

Dyes are evaluated for strength, sublimation, dispersion, washing & light fastness

properties.

The fibers (wool, polyester, viscose tops & special fiber) are tested for fiber

fineness micron (fiber diameter), fiber bundle strength, moisture regain

percentage, finish percentage (as per WTO standards and specifications).

At the lab the micron is checked on the Wira Fiber Fineness Meter from UK,

certified by the Inter wool lab, Brussels.

Polyester viscose and cotton yarns are tested for - Count and several other tests.

Only after the material fulfils the standard specifications, is it allowed to proceed to the

production line.

In-Process Testing

Each and every batch is tested for wrapping gm/mtr and Uster percentage after

combing at the 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th passage of Gilling & Roving.

The yarn is checked on the Zellweger Uster Tester-3 and Uster Classimat II,

Switzerland to assure consistency in yarn quality conforming to the norms of

Uster statistics.

All finished fabrics are tested in accordance with international standards. These tests

include:

Residual Shrinkage, Tensile Strength, Pilling, CRA, Drape and Fastness to Light

Washing & Rubbing as per ASTM and BIS standards



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2.2 PRODUCTS:

Yarns to Fashion Fabrics:

BSL is one of the leading manufacturers of fashion fabrics and yarns in India. They

produce a wide range of polyester viscose fabrics and premium range of worsted suiting,

including Cashmere, Mohair, Angora and Camelhair blends. They use the finest

Australian Merino wool for making woollen fabrics & the Low Pill Trevira polyester for

making wool blends. For making special fibre fabrics, they use silk imported from

China.

The dyes and chemicals used for manufacturing fabric are procured leading companies

like Clariant, BASF, Ciba, Bayer and Henkel.

Keeping up with the rapidly changing consumer behaviour towards the readymade

garments segment, BSL has made forays in this segment with ready-made trousers under

La Italia brand name. It has also recently launched a range of premium readymade shirts

and accessories under La Italia brand.

BSL Yarns:

These are made from the finest Australian Merino wool that is spun to perfection on

latest manufacturing systems. Meeting the most stringent international quality standards,

yarns comprise a sizeable chunk of the company's export turnover. This is possible

because of the company's stringent quality policy and attention to detail at every stage of

production.

Polyester Wool Blended Suitings:

BSL's polyester wool blended suitings offer a perfect blend of 100% Australian New

Merino Wool ranging from 22.5 to 17 microns and Treveira/ Tergal polyester. This

combination of natural and man-made fibers in 2/24 Nm to 2/100 Nm offers the best of

both the worlds. BSL also offers specialised fabrics of wool blended with Lycra, Linen, Silk,

Tencel, Modal etc.



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Polyester Viscose & Polyester Cotton Blended Suitings

These exciting modern fabrics are created through blends of the finest quality polyester,

viscose and Polyester cotton. Thanks to the most advanced spinning, weaving and

processing technology, BSL presents a fabric with yarns of 2/15 Ne to 2/60 Ne that are

impeccable and finest in finish.

Pure wool Suiting

Immaculate Pure wool Suiting is created from the purest of raw materials--Australian

New Marino Wool in 22.5 microns to 17 microns with yarns of 2/24 Nm to 2/80 Nm.

Soft to touch and superior in drape, this is a result of a flawless blending of the finest

wool with latest technology. BSL Pure wool suiting are both fashionable and elegant with

an amazing natural softness.

Readymade Garments

BSL is setting trends with its La Italia premium range in the world of fashion. Available

in a variety of fabrics like cotton, poly-cotton, poly-wool and polyester viscose, the

premium range of trousers has been a runaway success in the readymade garment

segment. The La Italia range of trousers is available in straight, relaxed and wrinkle-free

fits.

The recently launched readymade shirts and accessories range under the same name has

been accepted by the discerning public.



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2.3 COMPANY HIERARCHY

Board of Directors

Managing Director

CEO/Business Head

Spinning Weaving Processing Marketing Accounts

& Finance

HR &

Admin.

PV PW

Fabric Silk

Domestic Export

Tops/Fibre/Yarn/Silk PV PW



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SPINNING



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3.1.1 PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER VISCOSE(PV) SPINNING

VISCOSE POLYESTER FIBRE

BLENDER

BLOW ROOM

CARDING

BREAKER DRAW FRAME

FINISHER DRAW FRAME

SIMPLEX

RING FRAME

AUTOCONER

CHEESE WINDING

DOUBLING & WINDING(TFO)

CONDITIONING

INSPECTION & PACKING

SINGLE YARN



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3.1.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR WORSTED SPINNING

WOOL/VISCOSE TOPS POLYESTER TOPS

DEFELTING GILL BOX

DEFELTING GILL BOX(FOR MIXING)

RECOMBING

RMC GILL BOX

IIIRD GILL PASSAGE

IST GILL PASSAGE

CONDITIONING, INSPECTION & PACKING

BI COILER GILL BOX

IIND GILL PASSAGE

VTH GILL PASSAGE

FOR SINGLE PACK

DOUBLING & WINDING

ASSEMBLY WINDING

RUBBING/ROVING

VITH GILL PASSAGE

IVTH GILL PASSAGE

AUTOCLAVING

AUTOCLAVING

AUTOCONER

SPINNING



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3.2 RAW MATERIAL:

Common raw materials used in synthetic spinning are

polyester and

viscose

Wool

Acrylics

They are received in the form of bale in grey condition.

The fibre is supplied by:

Reliance industries RECRON fibre – Bale of 375 - 400 kg.

Grasim Industries Ltd. Nagda(M.P) – Bale of 250-300kg.

Pashupati AcrylonLtd.,Moradabad- Bale of 300-350 kg.

3.3 BLENDING

Blending is process of combining two or more kinds of fibre. Fibres in required ratio are

taken, opened and blended in blenders. During blending anti-static oil sprays (Chemitex)

are given to the polyester fibres. Blending is done once or twice to get desired properties

in the finished products. It improves the fabric performance and helps in maintaining the

economy of the product.



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Antistatic Finish:

During blending the fibre is given Antistatic finish is given to prevent static charge

generation as well as fly generation in the case of manmade fibre.

Chemicals used:

LV40 – prevents static charge generation

2152P – prevents fly generation

3.3.2 MACHINERY USED:

TRUTZSCHLER (Trumac India)

Components of the TRUTZSCHLER blending machine:

Feed lattice

Inclined lattice

Delivery roller

Evener roller

Creeper roller

Stripper roller

Flow of material in the blender:

FEED LATTICE

INCLINED LATICE

EVENER ROLL

DELIVERY ROLL

BIN ROOM



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3.4 BLOW ROOM:

The mixing is further opened so that the wastes like hard chips are removed from the

mixing, the tuft size is reduced and better blending of fibre is achieved. This mixture is

converted into laps to pbe feed in the carding machine.

Following process takes place in the blow room line:

1. Opening – The material enters spinning mills in compressed form to enable

optimum transport and storage. In blow room the bigger tufts of fibre are made

into smaller with minimum possible change to the fibre.

2. Cleaning – To remove foreign seed particles leave from fibers. During opening

and cleaning there is always loss of good fibers. So the blow room line is selected

such that the optimum opening and cleaning is obtained with minimum loss of

good fibers. The cleaning efficiency of cotton in blow room section is

approximately 75– 80%.

3. Dust removal – To remove finer impurities like dust particles and very short

fibres by suction units e.g. cages. As the opening of the material increases the dust

removal capacity also increases.

4. Lap formation – Blow room line also facilitates the preparation of laps which are

further fed into the carding machine.

Humidity in the blow room – R.H. – 65% to 75%

Blow room line:

There are two types of blow room line

1. TRUSTZSCHLER ( Trumac engineering co. Pvt limited, Ahemadabad, India)

2. ZFA017 ( Zhengzhou Textile machinery co. Limited, China)



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Flow of material in blow room line:

Production capacity (at 85% efficiency)

Weight of lap produced – 1700 kg/8hr/line

Length of lap produced – 4000 yards/8hr/line

Total production capacity of the unit – 10 ton

Time taken to produce one lap (40 mtr.) – approx. 4 – 6 min.

No. Of laps produced per hour – approx 12

FEED LATTICE

SPIKED ROLL

FEED ROLL PIANO ROLLKRISHNER

BEATERCALENDER

ROLLSHELL ROLL



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3.5 CARDING

In carding the fibres are individualised, hard chips, soft fibres and entanglements are

removed. Lap produced in blow room are fed in the carding machine. The final product

of the carding operation is card slivers.

Objectives:

Individualisation and partial parallelisation of fibres

Fibre to fibre separation

To affect thorough mixing of the Fibre

Removal of remaining trash of Blowroom process

Conversion of Lap or opened fibre into sliver

Humidity: R.H. – 60% to 65%

3.5.2 The machinery used for carding:

Manufacturer Model Feed mechanism

LMW LC 1/3 Lap feed

LR LC 1/2 Lap feed

Production in kg/hr at 85% efficiency (LC 1/3) = 19.4 kg/hour



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Stop motion for LC1/3

1. Limit switch for lap tool – it stops the card in case of shortage of lap.

2. Limit switch over feed roll – it stops the card if the feeding of double lap takes place.

3. Limit switch at front panel – it stops the cylinder if the front panel is opened.

4. Limit switch over crush tool – it senses the lapping of the crush tool.

3.6 DRAW FRAMES

The card sliver is subjected to doubling and drafting process to parallelise the fibres,

remove micro dust and make uniform slivers.

Drawing is a two step process:

1. Breaker draw frame

2. Finisher draw frame.

3.6.1 Objectives:

To parallelize the fibres of card sliver and align them to the axes of the sliver

through drafting process. So that in final stage of spinning they can contribute

maximum towards yarn strength.

To improve the regularity in sliver weight per unit length though doubling of sliver.

To mix different slivers to give a homogenous blended sliver.

To straighten out the fiber and improve the fiber extent.

To improve uniformity and evenness so that the final sliver become more regular

resulting Uniform yarn.



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3.6.2 Breaker Draw Frame – During this process 8 slivers produced by carding

machine are parallelized to produce one sliver.

The machinery in use for breaker drawing frame are LDO/25 & LDO/6 (Lakshmi

industries)

Features of LDO/25

Maximum speed – 400 metre per minute

No. Of card sliver – 8

No. Of heads – 2

Diameter of top roll – 40 mm

Pressure of top roll – 68 – 72 kg

Capacity of the can – 3000 m

Production capacity for 30s count sliver (at 85% efficiency) – 765 kg sliver/shift.

Time taken to fill one can of 3000 m – 10 minutes.

Features of LDO/6

No. Of heads – 2

No. Of card slivers per head – 8

Maximum speed – 600 metre per minutes

Stop motion in LDO/25 and LDO/6 Breaker drawing frame:

1. Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing

frame the drawing frame will automatically stop or

2. Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing

frame will automatically stop.

3. If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will

automatically stop.

4. Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll

the machine will stop.



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The stop motion LDO/6 is similar to the LDO/25 the only difference being the

LDO/6 starts automatically once the stoppage causing problem is sorted out.

3.6.3 Finisher draw frame

It is done to give further strength and stability to the sliver. The drawn sliver from

breaker draw frame is again drawn. In this process the sliver drawn in the breaker draw

frame further used.

Machinery used:

LRSB – 851 (RIETER)

Features of LRSB – 851 (RIETER)

Number of head – 1

Number of card sliver feed – 8

Can size – 20*40 inch

Number of motors – 4

Diameter of top roll – 38mm

Diameter of calendar roll – 55 mm

Production capacity of the finisher drawing frame – 850 kg/shift/drawing frames

Stop motion for LRSB – 851:

Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing

frame the drawing frame will automatically stop.

Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing

frame will automatically stop.

If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will

automatically stop.

Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll

the machine will stop.

Can change stop motion: After the can is filled and another vacant can is not

available the machine will stop for itself unless the empty can is made available.



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3.7 SPEED FRAME

The drawn sliver is drafted, slightly twisted and wound on speed frame bobbin, this

process is known as roving. This is done to impart twist and to convert sliver into roving.

There are two types of machine:

Type 1: Manufacturer- LMW ( Model- LF 1400A)

Year-1994

No. Of spindles- 108

No. Of machine-1

Type 2: Manufacturer – LMW (Model-LFS 1660)

Year -2004/2005

No. Of spindles - 120

No. Of machine - 3

3.7.2 Production- (Under favourable marginal conditions)

Cotton- upto 13m/min.

Man made – upto 40m/min

Production capacity – 550 kg/shift/frame

3.8 RING FRAME

Spinning of roving bobbin into yarn of required count and twist is done here. The main

objective is to impart twist and the conversion of roving into single yarn.



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3.8.2 Technical specifications of ring frame:

Manufacturer- LMW (Model-LR6/S)

Top roll dia. - 32.5 mm, Bottom roll dia.-30 mm & Motor pulley dia.-152–187 mm

Pressure-20 kg

Total spindle - 480

Front roller speed – 245 rpm

Spindle speed – 15000 rpm

Total production – 100 kg/shift/machine

3.9 AUTOCONER

Autoconer is used to remove imperfection of spun yarn and make big package in the form

of cone.

3.9.2 Technical details

Model - Orion (Savio Machine Tessili SPA, Italy) Year- 2005

No. Of cones - 60

Drum speed -1300 rpm

Cone weight - 2 to 3 Kgs.(Full) and 30 to 35 gms. (Empty)



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3.9.3 Countwise Winding Speed:

Coarse Yarn(15-20s)- 1200 m/min.

Medium Yarn(20-40s)- 1400 m/min.

Fine Yarn(40s and above)- 1600 m/min.

Production capacity for autoconer – 800 to 1200 kg/shift and efficiency is upto 95%.

3.9.4 Machine sequence:

3.10 CHEESE WINDING: Cheese winding is used to wind two or more threads

from cone to cheese without inserting any twist.

Machine information and Features:

PS Metler (Model -F.M.K.S)

Manufacturer - Peas engineering pvt. Limited

No. Of machine = 2

Fix blade mechanical type slub catcher and dead weight type disc Tensioner with

electrical stop motion.

RING TUBE TENSIONERWAXING DEVICE

SPLICERYARN

CLEARERWINDING

DRUMCONE



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3.11 DOUBLING:

In doubling twist is imparted to yarn wound on cheese. There are two processes of

doubling.

1. T.F.O – In this process twisting and winding on cones is done simultaneously to

provide knot free yarns.

2. Ring doubling – Here only twist is provided to the parallel wound yarns. These yarns

are the wound in cones at cone winding. At cone winding the yarn is cleared of

doubling defects.

Machine specification:

1.Name –Veejay Lakshmi (Model-VJ–150–HS) Year -2004

No. Of machines-13

No. Of cones - 144

2. Name – Prerna (Model PRN – 225) Year 1998

Manufacture Prerna textile industries

No. Of machines -3

No. Of cones -144

Total Production capacity = 161.20 kg/shift

Technical specification:

Spindle RPM = 9000 to 10000 and Traverse length =155 mm



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3.12 CONDITIONING

Before packing the yarns produced are subjected to a treatment in the conditioning room

to increase the moisture content of the cone according to the requirement. It increases the

weight of the cone marginally.

3.13 PACKING

In packing department the cones produced by Autoconer / T.F.O are checked & then

packed in bags. There are 5 checkers and a large number of packers for this purpose. The

defects, which are checked during packing, are:-

The standard weight of cone is 2 kgs. Tolerance is± 50 gms.

In a bag 32 cones are packed that is the weight of packed bag is approximately 64 kgs. 8-

9 tons cones are packed per day. This is called loose packing.



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STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL

DEPARTMENT



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The work of statistical quality control department is to control the quality of product

being manufactured through intensive testing during intermediate process and of final

product to give quality assurance to buyers and maintain company standards.

The daily jobs performed by this department are checking naps, counts, hanks, thick and

thin place in slivers, lea strength etc. Various equipments and machines used are:

1. Oven

2. Tairo Top Tester

3. Wrap Reel(Under Trial)

4. Oil Extracting Machine

5. Moisture Analyser

6. Kmi Elecronic Tensile Tester 201

7. Torsion Balance

8. Stelo Meter

9. Magnoscope

10. Fiber Fineness Tester

11. Yarn Appearance Board Machine

12. Compo Twist Tester

13. Mechanical Twist Tester

14. Roller Tester

15. Compo Count

16. Uster Tester 5



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WEAVING



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5.1.1 Raw material

Raw material is stored at the raw material store room. The store in charge is responsible

for keeping a track of all the yarns coming to the weaving section. Most yarn required for

weaving is produced at spinning section of the BSL limited. Other suppliers for the raw

materials are:

Reliance industries limited

RSWM Ltd.

Banswara Synthex

Sangam India

5.2.1 Warping section

Warping is done to prepare continuous warp sheet beam under uniform tension according

to given warp pattern, of required length, width and number of ends.

5.2.2 Process flow in warping section:

CREELS WARPING DRUMS WARP BEAM

5.2.3 Temperature & Relative Humidity of section:

Temperature - 270 to 320 C

Relative humidity - 60% to 65%



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5.2.4 Machinery used (warping drum & beam):

The machinery used for the warping drum & beam are:

Prashant Gamatex – 4 M/c

Gayatri – 1 M/c

Bharat (Benninger Maneklal) – 1 M/c

Benninger Maneklal Computerized – 1 M/c

Comsa – 2 M/c

Suzuki Warper(for silk) – 2 M/c

Features of warping machines :

Solid steel drum (3.14 meters circumference).

Separate Warping & Beaming Structure.

Automatic section tension control having precise close loop yarn tension.

Ball screws for all servo systems.

Pitch measuring through Laser Sensor. (Contactless)

Linear guide on under carriage and continuous Beam Oscillation.

Reverse Drum Rotation.

User-friendly Handy Operating Panel for Beaming.

Constant beaming tension

Constant warping and beaming speed.

Fixed cone height

Fully machined & Dynamically Balanced Metallic Drum

Auto Section Advancing with electronic length measurement

Accurate Warp density adjustment & Alignment



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5.2.5 Warping creel:

Machinery used – centrally controlled tensioned type (PRASHANT GAMATEX).

Salient Features

Quick and simple threading of yarn.

Continuously rotating tensioners through motor.

Positive spring loaded centrally controlled tensioners.

Automatic section tension control.

Optical sensing stop motion.

Integrated AIR BLOW-OFF cleaning



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Technical specifications:

1. Creel capacity: 384

Production information:

Time taken to prepare 1 drum – 2 to 2.5 hours

Time taken to transfer the warp yarns from drum to beam – 40 mins-1 hours

5.2.6 Few warping defects and their remedies:

Defect 1: High variation in tension within and between ends (slack ends).

Remedies: 1. make sure that the end has not come out of the tensioning device.

2. Winding height should be changed.

Defect 2: The surface of yarns, building on the beam, is not even and free, has ridges

from one selvedge to the other.

Remedies: 1. Comb width should match with the beam width.

2. Comb dents should be uniformly spaced.

5.3.1 DRAWING-IN SECTION:

Once the beam is prepared in the warping section, it comes to the drawing in section.

The beam is kept on the beam stand and a person having complete details of the design,

draft and peg plan does the drawing in. Here one end of the warp yarn is passed through

the heald frame, drop pins and reeds.



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Heald frame specifications:

Type C – type and J –types simplex

Length 331 mm, flat steel

Eye let size 5.5 * 1.2 mm

Strip size 5.5 *0.30 mm

Manufacturer Unique impex, Mumbai

Drop pin specification:

Model Open, electrical

Size 165*11*0.4 mm

Manufacturer Unique impex, mumbai



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5.3.2 WEAVING SECTION

Weaving is a textile craft in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced to

form a fabric or cloth. The threads which run lengthways are called the warp and the

threads which run across from side to side are the weft or filling.

Machineries used:

Manufacturer Model Reed space No. Of machines

Picanol Optimax Single width

85”

12

Sulzer – Ruti P 7100 Single width

85”

76

Sulzer – Ruti P 7100 Double width

153”

16

Sulzer – Ruti G 6200 Single width

85”

36

Toyota JAT 710 Single width 20

Total no. Of machine 160

Speed and efficiency:

Single width projectile loom: 350 – 400 RPM

Single width rapier loom: 300 – 350 RPM

Double width rapier loom: 250 – 270 RPM

Picanol: 375 – 450 RPM

Air Jet(Toyota) – 1250 RPM

Production capacity: 105 – 110 metre per shift per machine

Production capacity: 105 – 110 metre per shift per machine

Production capacity of unit: 30000 meter per day at an efficiency of 80%



39

5.3.4 PROJECTILE LOOM

Warp insertion mechanism:

The key to the machine is the gripper projectile. In the picking position it takes

over the thread drawn from the supply package. After picking, it carries the thread

into the shed and is braked upon entering the receiving unit.

The thread is now taken over by the projectile feeder, held by the selvedge

grippers, cut by the scissors, released from the projectile and beaten up to the

cloth.

The tucking needles then tuck in the thread ends, forming firm tucked-in selvedge.

Finally, the projectiles is ejected from the receiving unit and taken back to the

picking position by conveyer.

The projectiles are accelerated by a torsion bar. This is tensioned, storing the

energy needed for a flight through the shed. Following the release of a lock, it

accelerates the projectile smoothly and resumes its initial position at once.

The flight velocity of the projectile is determined by the torsion angle of the bar

and can therefore be matched.



40

Beat Up mechanism:

A double cam assembly is mounted on the main shaft.

Both cams are working counter to each other.

A rocker is resting on cam with anti friction bowl. This is fasten to sley sword.

Sley sword keeps the reed support for final beat-up.

The cams are so designed that they provide sufficient dwell (220-250) for the

traverse of projectile.

Take Up mechanism:

Take - up drive of Sulzer draw and winds the cloth positively. Rate of take up can be

adjusted by means or change wheel. A combination of four wheels A,B,C,D is fitted with

a total of 12 change wheels it is possible to wheel weft density of 36 to 910 threads/

10cm and forward up to1810picks/ 10cm by changing the worm gear.

Let Off mechanism:

The purpose of the let- off drive is to pay out the warp sheet through turning the warp

sheet by warp beam and at the same time keeping the tension on warp constant. The whip

roller plays as the control element. It adjusts its height to the tension of the warp and

controls the let-off motion of let-off drive coupling by means of a bar. As the winding

diameter of the warp beam decreases, the whip roller moves gradually downwards. As a

result of this, the let-off increases and is matched automatically to the winding diameter

of the drum take-up.



41

Pick Finding mechanism:

When a pick is broken to find its position clutch is brought to pick finding position

(clutch is disengaged) and hand wheel is pull out and two turns are given to it. Then it is

brought to pick holding position and turn the hand wheel till the clutch returns to earlier

position. Thus dobby is turned on a pick back.

5.3.5 RAPIER LOOMS

Weft insertion mechanism:

The key component of the machine is the set of rapier. There are two set of rapiers in the

machine having positive motion. The rapier takes the weft yarn from the supply package.

After picking it carries the yarn forward on a guide at the centre of the machine another

rapier receives the yarn, can carry it. In this way, the intervals for rapier insertion and for

rapier withdrawal are both used for weft insertion. Invariably, on full width looms, only a

single pick of yarn from a given supply package is inserted, but it may be inserted as a

loop up to the time of transfer, and the transferred loop straightened out during rapier

withdrawal from the shed (the loop-transfer or Gabbler system). Yarn withdrawal from

the weft package is thus completed at the time of transfer.

It is the cut end of the weft which is transferred (end or tip transfer). The yarn clamps in

the rapier heads is positively actuated at the transfer (in addition to any positive actuation

at weft pick-up and release).

End Catching & Cutting mechanism:

The end catcher and cutter are attached and mounted on the sley. The end catcher

exchanges the weft yarn with the rapiers at the end of the withdrawal. The cutter comes

into contact of the weft during beat up, due to the sley and reed motion, and cuts the weft.



42

Technical specifications of P 7100 weaving machines:

The machine handles practically all types of yarns: spun yarn, filament yarn,

fancy yarn etc.

In the weft the machine processes staple fiber yarns from Nm 0.5-160 and

continuous filament yarns from 5000-10.8 denier.

Weft density is between 0.83-181.5 picks/cm. Maximum weft insertion rate

1200 meter / min. and speed upto 400 rpm.

Can work for upto four different weft colours.

Nominal width 190-540 cm.

Machine design is extremely compact.

Technical specification of G 6200 weaving machines:

Nominal width of the machine is 220 cms.

Can work for upto four different weft colours.

Stabuli jacquard for construction of selvadge.

Maximum weft insertion rate 900 – 1100 metre per minute.

Maximum working speed is 400 rpm.

Light signals in use:

Blue light blinking: warp thread breakage.

Yellow light blinking: weft threads breakage.

Yellow and red light blinking: shut down via emergency switch.

Red light: mechanical fault.

Red light blinking when machine is working: electronic projectile detector or weft

detector switched off.



43

Sensors and stop motion:

Projectile sensor: It is a metallic sensor situated at the receiving side and it senses

that projectile is reaching at correct angle or not.

Let – off sensor: P7100 provides electronic let off. If tension in warp sheet

decreases the sensor senses it by suitable arrangement and motor regulates warp

sheet accordingly

Weft sensor: To sense the presence and absence of weft supply at receiving side.

Angle sensor: To stop the loom at correct angle at particular degree

Warp stop motion: Electrical warp stop motion work together with drop pin

attachments

5.3.6 Air Jet Looms

Airjet TOYOTA JAT 710

Year 1996

Width : 1900 mm.

Staubli electronic Cam Motion 10 and 8 shafts 4 and 2 color

each looms equipped with 8 Heald frame installed 2 weft accumulators

5,000 pcs heald wire

5.4. INSPECTION

5.4.1 Grey checking section:

After weaving the fabric is brought to inspection section for grey checking. Here the

fabric is checked for any weaving related defect and the fabric are marked on the basis of

number of the defects the woven fabric contains.

Six automated fabric checking machines are used to check the fabric. Chalk is used to

mark the defects. Each machine can check 3000 to 4000 metres of fabric every day.



44

Grading of fabric on the basis of defect they contain are as follows:

0 -5 defects – A grade

6-12 defects – B grade

13 – 23 defects – C grade

24 and above defects – D grade

Fabrics are checked for following defects during grey check:

Starting mark: An isolated narrow bar running parallel with the picks, starting abruptly

& gradually shading away to normal cloth. This is due to abrupt change in the pick

spacing followed by gradual coming back to normal pick spacing. Causes of the defect

are:

Restarting weaving machine after pick finding.

Reed (loom) stops ahead from the place where it should stop (generally loom stops

at 400),so that sufficient moment is not generated during the next pick beating and

results in starting mark.

Weft Bar: A bar due to difference in material, count, twist, lusture or shade of the

adjacent groups of weft yarns.

Reed Marks: Irregular spacing between the groups of warp yarns across the width of the

fabric. The defect may be caused by a damaged or defected reed, i.e. dent opened or gap

is more than normal between two dents.

Missing ends / Ends out / Chira: This most commonly characterized by a gap of one or

more warp end in the fabric. The main causes are:-

The weaver is careless, not mends broken ends immediately.

Missing ends in the beams.

Any end not passed from the heald & reed i.e. not drawn & remain missed.



45

Patti: Take up roller jammed or move slowly in between the regular process due to

some mechanical fault than a thick place or closer pick spacing results known as Patti or

thick bar.

Thin: Due to some mechanical fault take up roller moves little bit faster, gives a fault

known as thin bar.

Double pick: In plane weave if after loom stops due to pick breaking, loom is not turned

back to its initial position than two pick are comes in the same shed, resulting the defect

named double pick.

Design Cut: If the above defect occurs in the dobby design, design gets disturbed &

defect is known as design cut.

Temple mark: Holes or surface disturbances along the selvedge of a fabric due to bad or

improperly adjusted temples.

Slub: Fly accumulated at drop pin or heald wire goes along with the warp in the fabric

create slub in the fabric, gives defect in finishing if not removed.

Pattern Break: Shed not opened properly due to some mechanical fault, gives pattern

break.

Broken pattern: This defect may be due to wrong drawing of threads, inserting a pick in

the wrong shed, incorrect lifting of warp threads.

Cracks: A narrow streak parallel to the weft due to the pronounced opening between

two adjacent yarns. Any loom condition that permits erratic operation of the sley or yarn

of its parts will create cracks in the fabric. A loosed-reed, that is, one that has excess



46

freedom in the sley, will also cause this defect. A take-up motion which is sticking

may produce cracks in the fabric.

Floats stitches: A place in the fabric where warp & weft yarns escape the required

interlacement. This defect is caused by Entanglement of warp threads due to delay in

repairing a broken end, knots with long tail ends, breakage of wire healds on running

loom, unsatisfactory working of warp stop motion. With synthetic yarns, due to static

electricity generation, there is a tendency for the adjacent ends to roll during weaving,

this results floats or stitches less opening of shed.

Stains: Stains on the fabric are measure serious problems in textile mills. Majority of the

stains occur at loom shed only. There are various kinds of stains.

E.g. oil, grease, rust, dirt, soil, carbon particles in air, sweat, crayon, box mark etc.

Most of the stains can be traced back to poor material handling, lack of care on the part of

workers and poor oiling and cleaning practices. Certain stains can be removed by solvent

but it involves additional cost.

Wrong warp pattern: Wrong order of drawing the ends through the reed or wrong order

of drawing the ends through the healds.

Few other weaving related defects are:

1. Loose picks

2. Loose ends

3. Selvadge damages

4. Yarn damages

5. Double twek.

6. Lashing



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5.5.1 MENDING

Totally fault free fabric cannot be manufactured on the loom. They are some small or

extra faults that occur in fabric during manufacturing.

But some faults along these could be mendable .They can be eliminated easily.

Total number of mending table – 150

Total number of workers – 160

The particular fabric incoming from weaving department is firstly stored in grey mending

store. Each fabric piece carries with their ‘PIECE TICKET’ which is having various

particulars about fabric. According to date of delivery, fabric pieces are arranged in

sequence systematic manner. Earlier fabric first took for mending. The fabric piece is

given to mender for mending with its piece ticket. These are the following faults that will

mend by the mending department:

Broken end/ pick, missing end / pick, reed mark, floating ends, pattern mistake,

contamination, naps, slubs, knots, oily yarn etc.

After mending the fabric is rechecked again. The defect free fabrics are sent to the rolling

department to create rolls of the fabric. After rolls have been created the fabrics are sent

to the dispatch department, the fabrics from dispatch department are sent to BSL (PD) for

further processing of the fabric.



48

PROCESSING



49

6.1 TEXTILE PROCESSING

The evolution of colouring matters in to synthetic dyestuff and the application techniques

on various textile materials are all put together is called 'Textile Processing.

It is one of the important industries related with textile manufacturing operations. The

textile industry has a long history that begins with "Indigo dyeing" a natural colour,

derived from a plant. The process of colouring textiles was considered as an art.

According to ones creativity and imagination on those days numerous techniques were

evolved in colouring different materials such as cotton, bamboo, jute, earthen-ware and

even mortar walls. Slowly this technique was evolved in to a science and so many

artificial colouring matters called 'dye stuffs' had started coming into existence.

6.2 PROCESSING DIVISION OF BSL

The processing division of BSL Ltd. is the integrated unit/department of the LNJ

Bhilwara Group for the processing , finishing and dyeing of fibers and fabric after the

weaving process.The department is divided into

Tops & Fibre dyeing Department,

Fabric dyeing & Processing Department, &

Silk dyeing.

6.3 FABRIC DYEING DEPARTMENT

This dyeing department performs the dyeing & finishing processes of the fabric supplied

from weaving department.

6.3.2 Raw Material Store:

It stores the fabric lot for dyeing and finishing processes. Fabric lot is supplied along with

the lot memo & quality instructions. The fabric may be fiber dyed or grey. Here some lots

of fabric is stitched together to get the appropriate length of the fabric and are passed for

the next processes.



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6.4 SCOURING

Scouring is the process of removal of natural oil substances like waxes, fats and pectin's

as well as added impurities like lubricating oil, dust, dirt and residual starch in the cotton

materials .

Machineries in uses:

Pacific jigger machine

Model: Pacific Jigger machine

Manufacturer: Harish industries limited

No. of machines – 2


1. Operating temperature – 50 ͦ C to 100 ͦ C ( depends on the material being used )

2. 1000 – 1200 meters of fabric can be loaded at once.

3. Time required – 5 to 6 hours

4. Steam pipes are located at both top and bottom of the chamber.

Jigger

Manufacture: Benninger – Maneklal

No. of machines – 16



2. 400 – 500 meters of fabric can be loaded at once.

3. Time required – 4 to 5 hours

4. Stem pipes are located at both top and bottom of the chamber.



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Jumbo Jigger

Manufacturer: Benninger – Maneklal

No. of machines: 3


1. They are the high capacity jigger machine .


3. 1200 – 1400 meters of fabric can be loaded once in the chamber.

4. Time required: 6 hours

Relax Scouring Machine:

Manufacturer: Dhall Enterprises and Engineers Pvt. Ltd.

Parts of the range: Fabric feeding system, Guide rollers, Caustic soda tank, Soap tank,

squeeze rollers, Expander rollers, Steam chambers, Storage chamber, Intermediate

mangles, Hot wash chamber, Acid wash chamber and Take off system.

Salient Features:

Maximum washing performance by specific use of mechanical washing elements,

time, temperature, and chemicals.

Uniform and gentle liquor flow through the fabric.

Even fabric surface with best fastness value.

Low tension and crease-free fabric run with minimum residual shrinkage values.

Safe fabric transportation even at highest speeds.

Low consumption of water and energy due to specific fresh water metering,

counter-current flow and optimized bath volume.

Process control system and excellent washing results.



52

Dolly Machines (M.T.Textile Engg. Works) – 3 M/c

Supervelox Machines – 1 M/c (done in rope form)

6.5 DYEING MACHINES:

Following types of dyeing machines are used:

1. Beam dyeing machine

2. Jet dyeing machine

BEAM DYEING MACHINE:

In beam dyeing machine the beam is created first by wounding the full length fabric on a

perforated beam. After creating the beam the beam is inserted into the beam dyeing

machine. In this type of dyeing the fabric is kept stationary and the dye liquor is

circulated. This type of dyeing gives good colour fastness.

Machinery in use - Beam dyeing machine (Manufacturer – Dalal Engineering works)

PH to be maintained – 4 to 5

Temperature to be maintained – 130 – 135 ͦ c

Time taken for one lot – 4 hours

The machine is started at 60 ͦ c and is allowed to work for half hour; the temperature is

increased by certain amount to certain limit at regular interval of time.

6.6 JET DYEING MACHINE:

Jet dyeing is a very efficient contact between the dye liquor and fabric is obtained by

both are in constant movement. This result improved level of dyeing shorter dyeing time.



53

Fabric is circulated through the dye bath in rope form. The movement of the fabric

occurs by circulating the dye-liquor through a venture jet.

Machinery in use:

Manufacturer – Heatex industries limited

No.of Machines - 6

PH of the jet dyeing machine – 4 to 5

Speed of fabric – 250 to 400 meters per minute.

Length of fabric that can be fed at once – 550 to 600 metres

Temperature – 130 ͦ c to 137 ͦ c

Time taken to complete the process: 90 minutes to 2 hours

6.7 STENTER MACHINE

Stenter machine is used primarily for heat setting. But also give several finishes to the

fabric. In this machine fabric is passed through a tank containing the chemicals required

to provide the finish to the fabric, then it is passed through a padding mangle when the

liquid is squeezed for the fabric. The chain in the machine then carry the fabric to the

chambers where the temperature is high and there are two blowers one at the bottom and

another one at the top to blow hot air in the chamber which is responsible for the heat

setting.

Model: 6 chamber stenter machine- Manufacture: Yamuna textile industries (3 M/c) and

Harish (1 M/c)

5 chamber stenter machine - Harish (1 M/c)



54

6.7 SINGEING MACHINE:

Manufacturer – OSTOFF singe

In this process fuzzy and protruding fibres are removed by burning them off. The main

purposes are the fabrics that are required a clear and smooth surface for printing Usually

performed on both sides of the fabric

In a singer, a fabric is passed over open flame at very high speed (200-400 mts/min) to

prevent scorching, then passed through water (or de-sizing bath) to extinguish any sparks.

Uneven singeing may lead unlevel dyeing. Therefore, the fabric is passed through singer

flat, in open width and under slight tension. The gas burner should be properly controlled

and maintained; otherwise streaky dyeing may occur .

Specifications:

Double Jet Burner

Automatic Flame width adjustment

Four singeing positions, centring devices, slat rollers, counter rotating scroll rolls

Sequencing unit

Speed – 100 metre/ minute (can be maintained according the fabric requirement)

Flame intensity can also be controlled.

6.8 KIER DECATISISING MACHINE

Model - PF – 2000

Manufacturer – TMT, Italy

Decatising or decatizing, also known as crabbing, blowing, and decating, is the process

of making permanent a textile finish on a cloth.

Specifications:

1. Working width: 1700 meters

2. 3 decatizing cylinders with a diameter of 460 mm

3. Two beams have wrapper above them and one of them is vacant.

4. Length of fabric rolled at once is 800 metres.



55

1 roll take half an hour for decatising out which th machine is placed in kier for 15 to

20 mins. Other 10 minutes are for cooling. It complete the chemical finishes being given

to the fabric by baking the fabric using stem.

Production capacity of the machine - 25000 m everyday approximately.

6.9 CALENDERING MACHINE (Manufacturer – Prabhat textile corporation)

No. Of Calendering machine - 2

Calendering is a finish process given to the fabric to give shine and lusture to the fabric.

It is done to enhance the aesthetic appeal of the fabric.

Specifications:

Running speed – 5 to 30 meter per minute , it is generally operated at 25 to 28

meter per minute speed.

Pressure – 2 to 35 tons

Maximum temperature – 180 ͦC

Roller face diameter – 600 mm to 3800 mm and Top bow diameter – 200 mm

Embossing roll diameter – 460 mm

Heating element – electric pipe heating

6.10 SUPER FINISHING MACHINE

Manufacturer – M-Tech D-41751

Super finishing is another finish process given to the fabric. It has the same function as

that of the Calendering machine i.e. to enhance the physical finishes of the fabric, but the

finish produced by this machine is superior in quality to that of the Calendering machine.

It is generally done on expensive fabric or on the specification of the buyer.

Specifications:

1. No. Of bowls – 6

2. Speed of the machine – 25 to 30 meter per minute

3. Temperature of heating rollers – 1500

C



56

6.11 DRYING RANGE:

Manufacturer: Yamuna textiles machinery

Drying range is used to dry the fabric after scouring, dyeing and several such processes.

The machine contains a tank where washing of the fabric takes place prior to dry on the

seam heated drums.

Specifications:

1. Total number of drums – 12/20

2. Speed of the machine – 50 metre per minute ( can be controlled according to the

requirement)

3. Pressure of the steam in the drum – 1.5 to 4 kg per cm sq.

4. Mangle pressure – 2.5 to 5 kg.

The fabric is passed through the soap solution in tank one which washes the fabric. Then

it is passed through a padding mangle which squeezes the water out of the fabric, after

that fabric is passed through 1st set of Teflon coated rollers where 75% of the drying takes

place. After that the fabric passes through the 2nd

set of stainless steel roller where the

fabric is completely dried out and a certain level of shine also comes to the fabric.



57

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR FIBRE DYED FABRIC (POLYESTER VISCOSE)

GREY FABRIC

GREY SCOURING

DRYING

HEAT SET

SINGENING

DECATISING

FINISHING

FOLDING



58

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR PIECE DYED (POLYESTER VISCOSE)

GREY SCOURING

ROPE OPENING(IF REQD.)

DRYING

HEAT SET

POLYESTER DYEING

DRYING

SINGEING

VISCOSE DYEING

DRYING

DECATISING

FINISHING

FOLDING



59

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER WOOL AND WOOL WORSTED

FABRICS (FIBRE DYED)

GREY FABRIC

HEAT SET

SINGEING

SCOURING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

DRYING / CHECKING

SHEARING

MECHANICAL FINISH

FOLDING



60

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER WOOL FABRIC (PIECE DYED)

GREY FABRIC

SCOURING

DRYING

HEAT SET

DYEING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

DRYING & CHECKING

SINGEING

SCOURING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

DRYING & CHECKING

SHEARING

MECHANICAL FINISH

FOLDING



61

6.12 TOPS & FIBRE DYEING DEPARTMENT

It is the department where the fibres, tops & yarns are being dyed.

Raw material gowdown:

Here the fibres, tops(slivers) & yarns are stored. Raw material is stored with its proper

detail.

6.12.1DYEING ROOM:

Spring convertor:

Here the cones of yarns are converted into the spring (which is suitable for the carrier of

yarns in dyeing).

6.12.2 HT/HP DYEING MACHINE:

HT/HP dyeing machine is used for following processes:

Fibre Dyeing

Tops Dyeing

Yarn dyeing.

Wool Scouring.

The machine has specific carriers for each of the above mentioned dyeing processes.

Raw Material

Fibres (supplied from spiinning raw

material section)

tops (supplied from spinning

section/exported)

yarns (supplied from spinning

section/exported)



62

Dyeing carriers are classified into 3 sections according to their weights:-1 kg, 1.5 kg

and 2kg carriers are used for fibre and tops dyeing depending upon the requirement of the

quantity to be dyed.

Tops are loaded in the carrier with the help of pressing machine and spindles while yarns

and fibres are loaded and compressed manually in the specified carrier. Then the carriers

are placed into the dyeing machine (with the help of electronic carriers – which hangs the

carrier and carry it to the vessel and place it into the vessel) and water is circulated in the

dyeing chamber.

The water is heated with the help of steam coils provided at the bottom of the dyeing

machine chamber. When the temperature is raised to 60 ͦ c the dye is added in the

chamber (along with acetic acid, leveller and water softeners) and the temperature is

gradually raised according to the specified requirements. The ph of dye bath is

maintained at 4.5-5 during the dyeing process at a temperature for wool 94 ͦ c and 135 ͦ c

for polyester.



63

Requirements for HT/HP dyeing:

Total time consumed for dyeing medium and light shades: 1.45 hours.

Total time consumed for dyeing heavy shades: 2 hours.

Softener used for dyeing: Metashear.

The dyed materials are unloaded, with the help of electronic controlled loading/

unloading device, from the vessel. Then the dyed material goes for the drying.

RF Drier for fibres.

Tumble Drier (hydro extractor) & Hot Air Drier for tops and yarns.

The dyed fibres/tops/yarns are packaged and sent to the concerned departments as per the

specified requirements.

Salient features of HT/HP Dyeing:

The top dyeing route allows us to make mixture or melange shades, which is not possible

in other yarn dyeing systems.

Top dyed production results in yarns for the highest quality woven goods,

upholstery, machine knitwear, hosiery and hand-knitting.

Dye from the finest to the coarsest of wools, and those that have been shrink resist

treated for machine washable knitwear.

Include ranges of natural fibres are noble fibres such as cashmere, alpaca, mohair,

vicuna and silk.

Polyesters and nylon tops are dyed, predominantly for blending with wool.

Technical features of HT/HP dyeing machine:

Uniform dyeing and Low running cost

Reversible pump and Injector pump

Low ML Ratio 1:3 with Fully automatic operation



64

6.12.3 DRIERS:

Radio Frequency Dryer (using R.F. Technology)

In a radio frequency heating system the RF generator creates an alternating electric field

between two electrodes. The material to be heated is conveyed between the electrodes

where the alternating energy causes polar molecules in the material to continuously

reorient them to face opposite poles much like the way bar magnets behave in an

alternating magnetic field. The friction resulting from molecular movement causes the

material to rapidly heat throughout its entire mass.

The amount of heat generated in the product is determined by the frequency, the square

of the applied voltage, dimensions of the product and the dielectric loss factor of the

material, which is essentially a measure of the ease with which the material can be heated

by radio frequency waves.

Advantages

For those applications that require uniform heating and precise temperature control

RF offers many advantages over conventional drying methods.

Uniform heating through entire thickness

2 to 20 times faster than conventional drying methods

Energy efficient

Uniform moisture profiling

Low maintenance



65

Process flowchart for polyester tops

POLYESTER TOPS

REBALLING & CENTRE PULLING

PRESSING

DYEING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

RF DRYING

PACKING

DESPATCH



66

Process flow chart for polyester fibre

POLYESTER FIBRE

PRESSING

DYEING FINISHING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

RF DRYING

OPENING OF FIBRE

PACKING

DESPATCH



67

Process Flow Chart for Wool Tops:

WOOL TOPS

REBALLING & CENTRE PUL

PRESSING

SCOURING

DYEING FINISHING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

RF DRYING

PACKING

DESPATCH



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6.13 SILK DYEING

Machineries used:

1. Mezzera – 2 Machines

2. Swastik – 1 Machine

Advantages

>>Higher winding output due to entanglement-free yarn treatment.

>>Mechanical mixing and heating of bath without disturbing the yarn.

>>Can be supplied as coupled machines for maximum flexible operation

25-27 hanks of silk yarn are taken and fed into the machines. The machineries involved

can be used for washing and dyeing. The processes involved in silk dyeing are:

1. Degumming

2. Hard washing

3. Soft washing

4. Dyeing



69

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT AND MARKETING



70

7.1 DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

The Design and Development department of the BSL Suiting is concerned with the

development of samples of designs as per the customer specifications and requirements

as well as designs which are supposed to bring in more customers. These designs are

developed after discussions within the department executives after a detailed study of the

customer feedback and the market surveys which are carried out at regular intervals.

Samples are produced in sampling section which are divided into Polyester Viscose and

Pure Wool section. The weaving is done on the looms which use Shuttle as the weft

carrier.

Polyester Viscose blankets are produced on Shuttle Loom. The warping is done

according to the Warp Tickets issued by the customers. The Weft Winding section is

done on the basic winding machine.

Designs are developed based on the customer requirements and the market survey

conducted by the Design and Development Department. The blankets are then sent to the

customers. The designs approved by the customers are then sent to various processing

departments for the mass production.

BSL sampling section has a 15 member team for designing and 12 sampling machines

(power looms) with 2 Hand Looms.



71

7.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF THE DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT TEAM:

Discussing of new Ideas for design and new products based on Market Survey

Conversion into Warp Ticket

Blanket Sampling

Approval of Blanket from Marketing

Receive Production installation from

Marketing

Release Requirement of Raw Materials

Cloth Master Card Preparation

Checking of Grey fabric with Fabric Details



72

7.3 MARKETING

BSL Marketing Section deals with the sales in Domestic and International Market.

Domestically largest sales region for BSL suiting is southern India and Maharashtra. 5

lakh metres of fabric is sold domestically every month whereas the export volume of

BSL Suitings is 8 lakh meters of fabric per month.

BSL Ltd. has become a largest international player in the field of textile exports. Today it

is present across 48 countries with an ever-increasing export volume crossing US $ 30

million. BSL Ltd continue to push the boundaries when it comes to matching global

quality standards and forecasting trends.



73

7.3.2 ORGANIZATIONAL CHART:

Vice- President

General Manager

Assistant General Manager

Marketing Manager

Sales Manager

Field Staff (Deputy Sales Manager, Assistant Sales Manager, Senior Sales Officer, Sales Officer, Assistant Sales Manager, Sales Representative, Sales Assistant)



74

7.3.3 PROCESS FLOW FOR MARKETING SECTION:

7.3.4 Appointment of Agent:

This activity establishes a media to enter into market and establish an agent for looking

after the marketing activities in particular territory.

Activities (Domestic Sector)

1. Field Staff visits market and locate potential agents.

2. Asst. General Manager/Marketing Manager/Sales Manager receives

communication from interested agent.

3. The top management discuss the ascertain potential of the future agent.

4. The finalization and appointment of the agents is done by the president.

5. The law firm then prepares the agreement.

6. Each agent is then assigned a annual target

7. Annual performance of the agent is reviewed at the end of the year

Appointment of Agent

Contract Review

Production Advice and Co-ordination

Inspection and Grading

Warehouse and Dispatch of the finished Fabric



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Activities (Exports)

1. The management visits a fair or exhibition to identify the potential

agents/customers.

2. The samples are sent with required quotation to the interested parties.

3. Their Response is received.

4. If positive, then they are appointed as customers.

7.3.5 Production Advice & Co-ordination:

Activities (Domestic sector)

1. Production advice is prepared according to the accepted and anticipated order.

2. The advice is sent to development and commercial department.

3. Follow up is performed for process flow at various stages.

4. For piece dyed fabrics, issued dyeing program is sent to process house through

godown.

Activities (Exports)

1. Consolidation of orders according to the delivery schedule.

2. Finalisation of shipping quality per month.

3. Preparation of production programme.

4. Sent to the Commercial and Development department.

5. Follow up the process according to the delivery schedule.



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7.4. Final Inspection and Grading:

The purpose is to ensure the customer’s satisfaction according to their specification.

Inspection Activities

1. Information of the Grey Fabric.

2. Information of the Finish fabric.

3. One piece of the random lot is taken and checked thoroughly.

4. Ensuring work instruction.

a) If accepted, sent to the Grading department.

b) If not accepted, the concerned department head is consulted.

c) The retreatment is done and is then sent for the inspection department.

Grading

1. After inspection delivery challan is issued for the fabric.

2. Packing material, screen, lot number is decided.

3. Grading instruction is issued.

4. A sample of 4.5 metre is issued.

5. Than is prepared

6. Weighting and stickering is done.

7.5 Dispatch

The department is concerned with the dispatch of the fabric to the consumers

according to their demands.

1. Finished fabric is received from the folding department.

2. The fabric is checked for details through the challans for details according to

the production instruction.

3. The goods are packed in cartons according to the packing instructions

specified.

4. The details of the packed goods are submitted to the excise department for

clearance.

5. The balance stock is kept in the racks and the details are entered in the stock

reports.

6. The finished fabrics are dispatched.



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7.6 Customer communication process:

1. Communication is received from the customer regarding requirement of

product, delivery and post delivery activities and the record is maintained.

2. The communication regarding each contract and order is maintained with the

customer.

3. Feedback is obtained and record is maintained.

7.6.2 Handling of customer’s complaints:

1. Complaints are received from the market.

2. Complaints are sent to marketing manager, sales manager, field staff and is

registered.

3. Nature of the complaint is analyzed.

4. The complaints are discussed with the dealers.

5. The complaints are reviewed and discussed with the concerned field staff

which yields two results:

a. The complaint is genuine; if the complaint is genuine following

procedure is followed.

1. Settle the claim on commercial basis like rebates.

2. The concerned department is informed.

3. The corrective action is initiated.

4. The concerned department is informed to prevent the

occurrence of the same defect in future.

b. The complaint is not genuine; if the complaint is not genuine following

procedure is followed.

1. The agent dealer is informed.

2. The defective sample is received along with the nature of the

complaint.

3. The sample is analysed and checked

4. The complaint is informed about the result of the analysis.



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CONCLUSION



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8.1 CONCLUSION

Textile manufacturing is a multiple stage production system comprising of conversion of

fibres to yarns, yarns to fabrics and fabric finishing. Spinning is the operation in which

the fibre is converted to yarns and various process that the fibre undergo to get its yarn

form are blending in which the fabric is opened form is bale form and mixed with the

desired fabric to give the desired finishes, blow room in blow room the bales are further

opened and converted into lap form for further operation, the lap is further converted into

sliver in cards in the process known as carding, the slivers are then parallelised to give

more strength in the drawing machine in drawing operation , then the slivers are imparted

twist and are wound in the form of roving in the speed frame, after the roving have been

made the fibres are converted to yarns in the ring frame, after pinning the defects from

the yarns are removed in the autoconer , after that the fabric are given twist if required

and are packaged for further operations.

The yarns in weaving section are made into warp beams into warping section for using

them into further weaving operations, the fibres wound on the beams are then drawn in

the drawing in department where they are passed through heald. These beams are then

transported to the weaving loom where the formation of the fabric takes place. After

fabric formation the fabric is sent to the inspection section where the defects in the fabric

are checked and they are sent to the mending section for corrective action on the defect,

after the fabrics have been mended they are rolled and sent to the processing department.

In processing department the fabric are given fabric treatment according to the

requirements, for yarn dyed fabric they are given the treatment like scouring to remove

the dirt or impurities in the accumulated during the weaving process.

They are also given treatments like heat setting to give dimensional stability to the fabric,

singeing is done to remove the protruding fibres on the fabric surface, the fabric is then

given treatments like Calendering , deacatisting or super finishing to give the required

finish to the fabric. In case of yarn dyed fabric the fabrics are scoured first to remove the



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impurities, and then they are dyed in either jet dyeing machine, beam dyeing machine

or the jiggers. Then they are given the required treatment to finish the fabric according to

the buyer specification. Processing can also been done prior to the fabric formation the

fibres, tops or yarns can also be dyed which will produce the yarn dyed fabric.

Throughout the above stated procedure of conversion of fibres to fabric extreme care

should be taken and production process needs to be carefully monitored as even a slight

variation may cause huge loss to the organisation. The production plan is a well chalked

out plan and utmost care is take to maintain the quality standards SQC and R&D are

always working. The production process is very closely monitored to minimize the

defects while the production process is being carried out and since a major portion of the

fabric produced is for export purpose adhering to the world class quality standard is a

must so the work of quality control and research and development department is of very

high importance.

documenta

Documents

textile manufacturing

nift bangalore

textile internship

dyeing department

faculty member mr

singh spinning department

muley weaving department

zaroo processing department