A Walking Tour of Historic

Manchester-by-the-Sea

The East Walk

The Manchester Historical Society invites you to stroll at leisure along several of the Town’s oldest and most historic streets, lined with homes, shops and public buildings that date back to the 17th century. On your tour you will see a wide variety of architectural styles and learn about the fascinating men and women who lived and worked in what is the oldest part of our little seaside village.

THE EAST WALKStart your tour at the corner of Union and School Streets. Proceed north on School Street one block to the corner of North Street. Turn right on North Street, proceed to Washington and return to the Village on Union Street.

HARBOR

MASCONOMOPARK

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POWDER HOUSE

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SAW MILL BROOK

Historic Manchester-by-the-Sea

THE EAST WALKNORTH STREET

This little street was originally the 17th century route “around Town Hill”, a promontory rising above Union Street to the south. North Street led travelers to Washington Street and on to Kettle Cove and Gloucester to the east. Since you won’t be retracing your way back down North Street, we suggest you stay on the sidewalk to the south from where you can view the houses on both sides.

3 North StreetThis much-altered building was once Manchester’s first tavern, serving thirsty residents and travelers heading east toward Gloucester. It was built around 1640 for Benjamin Allen, a laborer who became the town’s first innkeeper. The original house had a five bay façade with front door facing the street. A long salt box roof extended to the rear. In 1825, that roof was raised to create a full two-story living space throughout. Around 1870, the western end of the house was removed leaving the present three-bay facade. The old tavern had foot–thick walls and a large taproom with exposed beams, dominated by a massive fireplace. The most recent renovations replaced the old front door with another first floor window, and little of the original flavor of this First Period Colonial now exists.

4 North StreetThe earliest part of this well preserved shingled house was built around 1718 for Jabez Dodge, a tailor. Like the old tavern across the street, this house also originally had a five bay façade. In 1902, the eastern half of what was by then a two-family home was removed leaving it with a three-bay façade. At that time, the old front door was probably repositioned to face School Street to the west.

6 North StreetWhat distinguishes this house is the abundance of Queen Anne detailing. The combination of clapboards and scalloped shingles, the jigsaw medallions at the end of the eaves, the finial above the steeply pitched gable and veranda on the west side all add to its visual interest. Like many homes in Manchester, this one was moved from another site. According to the April 11, 1884 edition of the Cape Ann Advertiser “H.L. Phillips has just moved a building from the Plains (area around Pleasant Street) to the Hassam lot (6 North Street), to be finished in the Swiss order”. The detailing just described was probably added at this time to “dress-up” what must have been a rather plain structure, although it was never intended to look like a Swiss Chalet.

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8 North StreetThere is something very appealing about this little house built in 1810 by John Knight, a housewright. He had paid $54 for the lot. The salt box extension was added at some later date. Its embellishments are few but nice, such as the corner boards and the treatment around the front door. Note the exposed foundation on the western side. Supporting the original house is multi-colored stonework, while a brick foundation was installed under the salt box add-on.

9 North StreetIt is believed John Driver built this well-preserved Georgian style home shortly after his marriage to Elizabeth Leach in 1768. In 1823 it was purchased by David Colby, Jr. who later enlarged it. About 1915, the house was moved across the street to its present location and the three dormers may have been added at this time. Colby’s father, David Colby Sr. was a well known builder, having won contracts to build the exterior of the First Parish Congregational church in 1809, and a year later to build the brick Powder House. Son David assisted with the latter project, carrying bags of bricks up the steep hill to the construction site overlooking the village and harbor.

16 North StreetHere’s a nice example of Second Empire architecture. It was built around 1870 for the Wheaton family who were cabinetmakers. According to an account in the May 10, 1878 Cape Ann Advertiser, “Mr. William E. Wheaton is adding

a French roof to his residence on North Street.” This refers to what today we call the Mansard style, named for the 17th century French architect François Mansart who adapted a provincial French roof form to many of his buildings. This feature, along

with ornamented dormers, the paired brackets under the eaves and dentilled decoration are all typical elements of this vernacular.

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18 North StreetIn 1880, after an illustrious career as explorer, statesman, civil engineer, merchant, miner, rancher, writer, and artist in the western United States, Manchester native William Henry Tappan returned to his birthplace and married William Wheaton’s daughter Augusta. This house was then built for the newlyweds. It is Queen Anne in style with a nice play of varied patterned shingles. As one might expect, the multi-talented Mr. Tappan became a leading citizen and remained active in town affairs until his death in 1907 at the age of 85.

WASHINGTON STREET, NORTH SIDEOriginally called High Street, this road to Gloucester and points east became Washington Street around 1844. This was a desirable section of town, providing residents with a sweeping view through orchards and gardens to the marshes and fish houses along the waterfront. Start your tour of this historic street lined with fine 18th and 19th century homes on the north side, continue to the 1661 Cemetery and return on the south side to Union Street.

6 Washington StreetThe oldest part of this conglomeration is the section with the gambrel roof, dating back to around 1770. In 1792 its owner Abraham Qunier, mariner, sold it to Dr. David Norwood. Prior to moving to Manchester from Lynn, Dr. Norwood was a physician aboard several privateers during the Revolutionary War. From 1792 until his death in 1808, Norwood was Manchester’s town doctor, practicing during the epidemic of 1794 that claimed 64 lives. When he died at the young age of 54, the town named newly constructed Norwood Avenue in his honor.

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8 Washington StreetThe National Register of Historic Places has determined that this house “remains the purest example of the Manchester version of high style Georgian architecture.” This handsome five bay house with opposed chimneys was built around 1765 and retains many of its original features including a fine pedimented doorway with lit transom. During the Revolution, it was owned by Manchester’s first professional doctor, Dr. Joseph Whipple. An ardent patriot, Dr. Whipple was captain of the local Coast Guard. In 1777 he sailed with a crew of 130 men aboard the privateer Gloucester. The privateer sent home two

British prize ships but was never heard from again. Lost at sea was the entire crew including Dr. Whipple and eighteen Manchester seamen. The Colby family then owned the house until 1808 when George Hooper acquired the property. He built the barn behind the house for his hay and grain business and to stable the horses for the Hooper’s Market (later known as Hooper’s Grocery) delivery service.

12 Washington StreetAlthough the first known deed for this unusual gambrel roof saltbox appears in 1777, tradition and construction date it as circa 1685. The first known owner, Ebenezer Lee sold the house in 1777 to Captain William Pitman, a Revolutionary privateersman. That same year Captain Pitman sailed on the ill-fated Gloucester along with Dr. Whipple, and he too was lost at sea. His widow Elizabeth then married Deacon John Allen who had a tavern down the street. In 1798, widowed once again, Elizabeth sold the house to Captain George Girdler, another local privateering mariner. In 1857, Benjamin Bullock, who ran a bakery business, bought the house three years after acquiring the bake house at No. 16.

16 Washington StreetThis modest little building was built in 1834 as a bake house or bake shop. It was owned by Isaac Allen who then sold it to baker Benjamin Bullock in 1854. The shop sold breads, cakes and pastries, and its large oven was also used to bake pots of beans brought to Bullock’s by local housewives. The stable behind the bake shop housed the horses that pulled the Bullock Bakery wagon through town. The shop remained in the Bullock family until 1920. Today it is a private residence.

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52 20 Washington StreetThis charming little center chimney Georgian style home was built around 1716 when housewright Onesiphous Allen sold to his son John “one acre where my barn now stands bounded by the Burying Place.” In 1757, Jacob and Hannah Tewksbury owned it. Just one and a half stories, this house has managed to survive without any noticeable additions or alterations. Whereas most early houses were sited as close to the road as possible, this one seems to enjoy the privacy of its deep lot.

1661 CemeteryJust past No. 20 is the town’s oldest burial ground. It includes the former private cemeteries of the Tappan and Forster families, as well as graves of Revolutionary and Civil War soldiers. The earliest legible gravestone dates back to 1714. The iron archway at the corner with date of 1661 was erected during the town’s 250th anniversary celebration.

WASHINGTON STREET, SOUTH SIDE

19 Washington StreetThis nice little Federal dwelling was built in 1834 for cabinetmaker Luther Allen. The doorway with transom light is especially handsome. The treatment of the front steps is unusual here in Manchester and is more commonly a feature of Southern homes. The dormers are a later addition. In 1836, Luther sold the property to John Perry Allen who had just lost his cabinet shop on Central Street during the “Great Fire” of that year. Ironically, the fire started in Allen’s own mill. We are not certain whether J.P. Allen used the house as a temporary shop or a residence.

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13 Washington StreetOne of Manchester’s most famous and successful merchant seamen, Captain John Allen, built this lovely home on a family land grant (the Allens were among Manchester’s earliest settlers). Construction began in 1820 using bricks brought back aboard Allen’s ships from England. Allen sailed out of Salem (Manchester’s undredged harbor not yet deep enough to accommodate ocean-going vessels) and the design of his Manchester home was clearly influenced by the fine Federal brick buildings on Salem’s Chestnut Street. When the house was finally completed in 1834, it was dedicated with much ceremony. All the classic Federal elements are on display: the five bay façade, the elegant fanlight and sidelights framing the door, simple detailing and perfect proportions. The present roof was installed in the 1850’s, probably replacing an original hip roof. Captain Allen’s property extended all the way down to the waterfront and included gardens and orchards. During the latter part of the 19th century, one of the Allens operated a shop making pianos on the property. The finished products were wheeled out of the shop and down the hill where they were loaded onto trains, the tracks having been laid in the 1840’s on land-filled tidal marshes. The property remained in the Allen family well into the 20th century.

11 Washington StreetTo make the most of a small lot, the builder of this 1827 home erected a full three-story gambrel with dormers. Original owners were Captain Ariel Parish Crowell and his wife Joanna. The Crowells were a prominent Manchester family, members participating in the War of 1812, the Civil War and the California Gold Rush. In 1902, descendents built the non-denominational Crowell Chapel at Rosedale Cemetery as a gift to the town.

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7 Washington StreetAs new owners acquired this house over the years, its architecture changed to reflect current tastes. The basic form with a full pedimented gable facing the street reflects the Greek Revival style favored by original owner Deacon Albert E. Low who built the house in 1842. James G. Allen, a master mariner, bought the house in 1885. It was subsequently sold to George W. Jewett and it stayed in the Jewett family for over a hundred years. It was the Jewetts who added all the Queen Anne elements such as the bay windows, piazza and the tower. Deacon Low was a remarkable man. Born in Manchester in 1803 he lived to the ripe age of 97. He was a professional fisherman, a partner in a furniture business, a participant in the Gold Rush in California, and a leading citizen in Manchester, serving as town treasurer for 20 years, as selectman for 11, and as unofficial town historian.

5 Washington StreetThis house and the one to the right are both notable more for their builders than any occupants. Both houses were built by Jonathan and Holton Allen, father and son housewrights who specialized in construction of modest homes on small lots that were affordable for mariners who spent much of the time away at sea. This house, for example, was sold in 1827 to Amos Hilton, a seaman, for $800. Take note of the door surround with its pendant brackets and unusual baroque flaring at the base.

UNION STREETOnce called County Road, Union Street was renamed during the Civil War to honor the men of Manchester who were serving in the Union Army. We suggest you view the various buildings from the east sidewalk.

51 Union StreetThis fine example of Georgian architecture was under construction in 1775 when news of the battle of Bunker Hill reached Manchester. It was built for Jonathan Brown, a blacksmith who cared for the horses of guests staying at Deacon John Allen’s Tavern and Inn directly across the street. It is distinguished by its center chimney, gambrel roof, pedimented entry and corner trim. The house originally had heavy exterior shutters to help keep out the cold. On the property was a good well that served as a neighborhood source of water.

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60 Union StreetAt the core of this dwelling is a center chimney Colonial built in 1730 for Deacon John Allen. Here he operated a popular tavern and inn, catering to locals and travelers alike. Allen’s daughter Joanna worked at the inn prior to her marriage to John Girdler, a mariner from Marblehead. The newlyweds then bought the house at 51 Union in 1786. The Allen Tavern remained in business until Oliver T. Roberts bought the property in 1887. Roberts, partner in the prolific construction firm of Roberts and Hoare, then added the wealth of Queen Anne features to the house, including the bay windows, dormer, scalloped shingles and porch.

54 Union StreetHere’s another of the houses that Jonathan Allen built during the period when local mariners such as owner Samuel Pert needed affordable homes. Built in 1832, the original house has been altered in many ways. The left-hand portion has six over six windows, while the right hand side has two over two with different trim, suggesting this portion was added after the middle of the 19th century. The ochre-colored stone capping the wall, called sap-faced granite, is characteristic of some Rockport quarries. This stone contained a high level of iron oxide giving it a “rusted” appearance.

43 Union StreetWe are not sure whether this little cottage set back from the street was originally a residence or a shop, perhaps it was both. We do know it was built in 1846 for Ivory Brown. The Manchester Cricket reported in 1899 that “Mr. D. B. Kimball will have the Ivory Brown shop building remodeled into a home.” David Kimball married Hattie Lee Smith, daughter of Captain Augustus Smith who owned much of the land known as Smith’s Point flanking the east side of the harbor. He and his father Major Burley Smith also owned the property directly across the street from this cottage.

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41 Union StreetThis was originally a three-quarter Federal house built in 1803 for the Reverend Abraham Randall. Oddly enough, it is sited facing north with its back to the harbor. It changed ownership several times before John C. Land bought it in the late 1800’s. Land then expanded the house westward, and added the mansard roof with dormers and the porch. Today it is a multi-family dwelling.

48-50 Union StreetIn 1834, Captain Augustus Smith, a wealthy mariner and ship owner, bought this property displacing two blacksmiths, a cooper, and innkeeper. In their place Captain Smith built a large two and a half story residence with a full basement at street level. Federal in design, it featured a wide five-bay façade, opposed chimneys, and pitched roof. During the railroad construction of the mid 1840’s, many of the workers were tenants in this house. In 1904, Captain Smith’s daughter inherited the house and added a third story and the gambrel roof. Shops at the basement level were also introduced at this time. Subsequent renovations now mask much of the original house.

40 Union StreetThis massive four-story building was built in 1850 for Major Burley Smith and his son Captain Augustus Smith. In the Federal style, it, like the house across the street, has the main entry facing north. Today, as has always been the case, a shop occupies the street level. The brick facing is not original, nor are the dormers. Burley Smith was one of Manchester’s largest landowners, having acquired about 200 acres of farmland on what is now Smith’s Point. There he built a large addition to an existing 18th century farmhouse, but why he and his son choose to build this Union Street residence is unknown, other than speculation they preferred not to be isolated from the commercial center of Manchester during inclement weather. This house and its neighbor, the “Railroad House” were among the last important homes to be built for mariners in Manchester. The wealth was now shifting from the seagoing merchants to the cabinetmakers.

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33-35 Union StreetHere’s another example of a house morphing from one architectural style into another. Sometimes the results are pleasing, but more often not. The uphill wing of this building is the oldest, dating back to 1831 when cabinetmaker John Long built a large, pitched roof half house . Other cabinetmakers took possession over time, including Forster Allen and carver Jacob Cheever, Jr. It was the latter who hired Roberts and Hoare, contractors, to build an extensive addition featuring such Queen Anne elements as the bow windows, turret and a piazza.To continue your tour of Union Street, please turn right and remain on the north sidewalk.

Pulsifer BlockDirectly across the street is a one story, stuccoed building known as the Pulsifer Block. Built in 1903 by James K. Pulsifer, it was a two-story commercial structure that housed the Post Office, the telephone exchange, the Red Men’s Club, two newspapers – the North Shore Breeze and the Manchester Cricket – Bullock Brothers Grocery, a dry goods store, and a barbershop. On January 17, 1906 a fire ravaged the building destroying the second floor. This was never replaced but the rest of the Pulsifer Block was restored.

21 Union StreetNext to the Pulsifer Block is one of the finest examples of Greek Revival architecture in Manchester. The handsome offset entry with transom and sidelights, (seen below), the wide corner pilasters, the fully pedimented gable, and the flush-boarded façade are all pleasing features of this vernacular. The perfectly proportioned triangular window with its delicate leaded glass is also noteworthy. The elaborate carving over the porch entry is probably

original and is most attractive. Behind the house stands the original barn with a nice old weathervane. The house was built in 1843 for Captain Samuel Crowell, another of Manchester’s successful mariners. The Captain’s two daughters inherited the house and one of them, Susan, was responsible for the construction of Crowell Chapel in memory of her brother Benjamin. Around 1889, Dr. George Blaisdell purchased the house. Then Dr. Charles Herrick owned it, followed by yet another member of the medical profession, Dr. James Bacsik, who added the cupola.

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18 Union StreetTucked against the side of Town Hill is this handsome brick home built in 1836. Unlike many homes that were designed by the builder, original owner John H. Driver employed a professional architect, Daniel Annable who lived next door. The recessed doorway is classic Federal style with an exquisite fanlight over the door. The three-part windows however, are more commonly a Greek Revival element. The clapboard addition was added at the turn of the 20th century.

10 Union StreetBuilt in 1823 by local businesswoman Abigail Hooper, this handsome structure is known as the Trask House, a reference to Abigail’s husband Captain Richard Trask. Captain Trask, who sailed out of Boston, was the town’s most prosperous merchant sea captain, and established a lucrative trade relationship with Russia. While her husband was away at sea, Abigail operated a flourishing general store on the premises. The original house (western half) was modest, but as the family fortunes improved, Abigail expanded the house toward the east, doubling its size.. When Captain Trask retired, Abigail had the large rooftop dormer built so her husband could enjoy a view of the ocean to the south. Captain Trask died prematurely at the age of 59 while Abigail lived to be 96. Upon her death, the Trask homestead became a boarding house. In 1925 it was purchased by the Manchester Historical Society as its headquarters.

8 Union StreetThis neat little gambrel roof Colonial was built in 1765. It had been the home of a Revolutionary War patriot (James Lee who died in a British prison in Halifax), an 18th century merchant, a mariner, and then a series of cabinetmakers including Luther Bingham who purchased ”the dwelling and all the buildings” for $700 in 1830. It is instructive to look carefully at the clapboards on the front façade of the house. The four foot long upper ones, dating from the 18th century, were hand split from straight-grained wood, planed, and the ends finished with an overlapping cut to give a tighter joint. The lower clapboards are more recent, longer in length with butt joints. In front of the house stands the last surviving elm tree in Manchester.

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2 Union StreetIn 1879, local druggist Andrew Lee built this large Colonial Revival structure for his new apothecary shop. Lee had opened the town’s first drugstore across the street in 1856 and now wanted to expand. His new shop was built around an existing 1874 structure and featured “a beautiful wrought iron sign with mortar and pestle”. Lee’s Apothecary was re-styled in 1899 with a new roof and front, and a stucco finish. The second floor contained business offices and the third was a meeting hall. The whole structure was called the Lee Block and the contractors were once again Roberts and Hoare. “A. Lee & Sons’ stock of drugs cannot be excelled in variety by any store outside of Boston” it was reported. Today the Lee Block is an apartment complex.

Manchester Public LibraryTo conclude your tour, cross the street and admire another of the most significant buildings in Manchester. This is the public library built in 1887. It was given to the town by summer resident Thomas Jefferson Coolidge in memory of the Manchester men who had served in the Union Army. Half the building was designated as the headquarters of the local post of the G.A.R. (Grand Army of the Republic).Manchester’s library was designed by Charles Follen McKim, chief assistant to noted architect H.H. Richardson who popularized the Richardson Romanesque style. The rough faced, square-edged granite stones and the arched entry seen here are hallmarks of the personal style Richardson created. It recalls the massiveness and architectural features of early medieval stone structures. This style quickly became popular for public buildings across the country. The Trinity Church in Boston is another fine example of the work done by Richardson. McKim later became a partner in the firm of McKim, Mead and White, one of the most celebrated, influential and successful architectural firms in American history. Among their many notable buildings are the Boston Public Library and the former Penn Station in New York City.

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AcknowledmentsThe Manchester Historical Society thanks the following members

for their assistance in the publication of this Guide: Esther Proctor, original concept and research; John Huss, text and research;

Steve Rosenthal, photography and descriptions of architectural features; Kit Rosenthal, proofing and descriptions of architectural features;

and Ed Halsted, graphic design.

MANCHESTER HISTORICAL SOCIETY

Founded in 1886, the Manchester Historical Society moved into its present headquarters, the Trask House, in 1925. The Society exists to serve the entire community of Manchester-by-the-Sea through the preservation of irreplaceable town records and artifacts, its research capacity and commitment to education. The Trask House was built in 1823 by a local businesswoman, Abigail Hooper, who ran a thriving general store on the premises. That same year she married Captain Richard Trask, one of Manchester’s most successful merchant sea captains.

Today, the original rooms of the Trask House contain an impressive collection of period furniture, artifacts and fine art. Included in the collection are examples of the furniture made in Manchester during the 19th century as well as memorabilia reflecting the town’s important maritime history, and its later prominence as a summer vacation destination for the wealthy during the “Gilded Age”.

Guided tours of the Trask House are offered on Saturday afternoons during July and August or by appointment.

For more information visit ManchesterHistorical.com

or call 978-526-7230