a sauces tale part 2.pdf

8/18/2019 A sauces tale part 2.pdf

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00 WaterFire

Air Earth


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If you thumb through cookbooks from every imaginableculinary tradition, the variations seem infnite, and thoughthere are a million different ways to make stew or braise

or soup, the underlying structure of all these dishes is verynearly universal. Let me propose a radically simplifed

version of that structure.

Dice some aromatic plantsSaute them in some fatBrown piece(s) of meatPut everything in a pot

Add some water (or stock etc)Simmer, for a long time

A UniversalStructure


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The powerful role waterplays within these potsmight not seem as po-tent as the wild waterthat carves canyons andcoastlines, but its pow-ers are impressive evenso. Water will conductheat, evenly and ef -ciently into every crannyof whatever is cooking. Ifthat happens to be driedseeds, water will bringthem back to life. Some-times literally by inspiringthem to germinate, orsometimes guratively,by making them soft andplump enough to eat. Butwater, suf ciently heated,can kill, too, dispatchingdangerous bacteria inour food. it will sterilizemeat and detoxify plantsand fungi. It will leachout salt and bitterness.water in a pot can bringtogether far- ung taxo -nomic kingdoms, marry-ing plants and animalsand fungi, so that theymight act on one anotherswap avours, alter tex -tures. Given enough timeand the proper amount

of heat, water will breakdown the toughest bresin both plants and ani-mals, transforming theminto food. Given still mortime, it will break thesefoodstuffs down into richpaste and, eventually,into a tasty , nutritiousliquid: a dispersed phaseof its continuous self. Butwhat water breaks downit also reassembles alongnew lines. Water will ex-tract molecules from oneingredient and diffusethem so that they mightencounter and act onthe molecules in anoth-er ingredient. Breakingsome chemical bondsand forging new ones,which might be aromas,

avours, or nutrients. In apot, water is the mediumof avour as well as heat,allowing spices and otherseasoning’s to get aroundand make their presencefelt. It also dilutes the ef-fect of the most pungentspices, like peppers mak-ing them more amena-ble. Given heat and timewater, softens, blends,


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Method:

To begin add the garlic and ginger to a blenderwith a splash of water and blitz to a smooth

ne paste. Now set aside. Heat the oil in alarge sauce pan over medium heat. Add theonions and fry for 25 minutes until they beginto change colour and go brown. Stir a fewtimes through cooking making sure it doesn’tstick to the bottom of the pan. Don’t rush thisas the colour of the onions adds more avourto the curry and also thickens the base gravy.Add the whole spices and fry for a further minute.Add the tomatoes and the tomato puree andstir well. Continue to soften the tomatoes for 4minutes making sure to mash them slightly withthe back of the spoon. Add the garlicand ginger paste and stir well cooking out theraw avours for a couple of minutes. Add the

coriander, chilli and turmeric powder and fryfor a few seconds. Now add the lamb chunks,stir well coating the pieces with the spices andsealing the lamb for 10 minutes. Add waterand bring to a boil. Season to taste. Simmeron a low heat with the lid on for 50 minutesstirring half way through cooking.


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Ingredients

Vegetable oil - 3 tbsp1 kg leg of lamb on the bone cut to bitesize piecesWhite onion thinly sliced - 260 gmsGreen cardamom pods - 4Black cardamom pods - 2Dried bay leaves - 2Cinnamon stick - 2”Black peppercorns - 7-8Small tomatoes nely chopped - 2Tomato puree - 1 tbspGarlic cloves roughly chopped - 8Ginger roughly chopped - 1”Coriander powder - 2 heaped tspKashmiri chilli powder - 1 ½ tspPinch of turmeric powder Water - 800mlsSalt to tastePotato cut to chunks - 220gmsPinch of garam masala powder Slivers of ginger for garnishCoriander for garnish roughly chopped

PunjabiTariwala Gosht

Tariwala gosht :A dish of everyday Indian homecooking and a basic curry that mosthouseholds make. Despite suchhumble ingredients the warmthand balance of spices in this dish issomething to love.


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The Cold Fire

One of the most desirable and earliestferments, is the fermentation of alcoholicbeverages. People have been questing foralcohol since the moment they stumbledapon it. We plundered nature for sources ofsugar we could turn into alcohol. Yeastsfeed off these sugars, Which in turnferments. There are ways of doing it stillcommonly used in the Amazon that areingenious. It begins by taking a starchyrooted called yucca, and chewing it. Thisis done collectively then spat into a vat. Tocreate the drink Masato.


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In our saliva there areenzymes that break starchesdown into sugar. So if saliva

is not used the yucca willnot mature well as it cannotferment. Fermentation wasseen as a cold re which cantransform things from onestate into another.

There is a beer before bread theory which has been suggested by anthro-pologists. That the real reason for settling down and growing grain was

motivated by the desire of having ferment-able crops, as collecting grainin the wild is a really pain staking process.


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Napa cabbage - 1 (2-pound)

Kosher salt - 1/2 cup

Cold water - About 12 cups

Daikon radish, peeled and cut into

2-inch matchsticks - 8 ounces

4 medium scallions, ends trimmed,

cut into 1-inch pieces (use all parts)

Korean red pepper powder - 1/3 cup

Fish sauce - 1/4 cup

Minced fresh ginger - 1/4 cup

Minced garlic cloves - 1 (bs)

(from 6 to 8 medium cloves)

Korean salted shrimp, minced - 2 (ts)

Granulated sugar - 1 1/2 (ts)

Cut the cabbage in half lengthwise,then crosswise into 2-inch pieces,discarding the root end. Place in alarge bowl, sprinkle with the salt,and toss with your hands until thecabbage is coated. Add enoughcold water to just cover, making surethe cabbage is submerged. Coverwith plastic wrap or a baking sheetand let sit at room temperature atleast 12 hours and up to 24 hours.Place a colander in the sink, drainthe cabbage, and rinse with coldwater. Gently squeeze out the excessliquid and transfer to a mediumbowl; set aside. Place the remainingingredients in a large bowl and stirto combine. Add the cabbage andtoss with your hands until evenly

combined and the cabbage isthoroughly coated with the mixture.Pack the mixture tightly into a clean2-quart or 2-liter glass jar with a tight

tting lid and seal the jar. Let sit in acool, dark place for 24 hours. Openthe jar to let the gases escape, thenreseal and refrigerate at least 48hours before eating (kimchi is bestafter fermenting about 1 week).Refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Method:


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KIMCHI


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B e a

t T h e

B l o a t

Fermented foods are foodsthat have been through aprocess of lactofermentationin which natural bacteria feedon the sugar and starch in

the food creating lactic acid.This process preserves thefood, and creates bene cialenzymes, b-vitamins, Omega-3fatty acids, and various strainsof probiotics. They have theunique ability to easedigestive discomfort relatedto having either too muchor too little stomach acid.Unfortunately, over the pastcentury many probiotic foodshave fallen from favour dueto changes in the way wenow preserve foods, particu-larly vegetables. Sadly, thesetime-honored traditional foodshave been largely lost inour society. When fresh

vegetables weren’t as readilyavailable throughout the year,they were often preservedthrough fermentation.


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a sauces tale part 2.pdf

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