.A r GUIDEFORTHE PERFUMER:BEINGANE\V TREATISEONTHEMOST FAVORABLETO BEAUTYWITHOUTBEINGINJURIOUSTOTHEHEALTH,COMPRISINGADESCRIPTIONOFTHESUBSTANCES USED INPERFUMERY, AND1'IIE OF :MORE THANONE THOUSANDPREPARATIONS,SUCHASCOSPERFUl\fED OILS, TOOTH POWDERS, WATERS, EXTRACTS,TINCTURES, INFUSIONS, SPIRITS, VINEGARS, ESSENTIALOILS,P.ASTILS, CREAMS, SOAPS, ANDMANYNEWHYGIENICPRODUCTS NOTHITHERTO DESCRIBED.EDITEDFROMNOTESANDDOCUMENTSOFMESSRS. DEBAY, LUNEL,ETC.WITHADDITIONSBYPROFESSORH. DUSSAUCE, CHEMIST,Lately of theLaboratories of the FrenchGovernment, viz., the Mining,Butanieal Garden, the Imperial Manufacture of the Gobelins,the Imperiale of Arts and .Manufactures;Professor of Industrial Chemistry to the PolytechnicInstitute, Paris:Anthor of"A Practical Treatise onMatches, Gun-Cotton,"etc., "A CompleteTreatise on Tanning, Currying, andLeather Dressing," etc. etc.PHILADELPHIA:HENRYCAREYBAIRD,INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER,406WalnutStreet.LONDON:TRUBNER & CO.,60PaternosterRow,1868.Entered according toAct of Congress, in the year1868, byIIENRY CAREY BAIRD,intheClerk'sOffice ofthe DistrictCourt oftheUnited Statesfor.the EasternDistrictoftheStateof Pennsylvania.PHILADELPHIA~COLLINS, PRINTER, '105 J.A. YNESTREE'!'-P R E ~ ~ A C E .THEindustryof the perfumerlIasinourday been advanced to a position whichnowmal{es it oneof the first ofthe arts; .indeed, we might almost say, one of themost useful. Perfumery hashadto undergo'manytransformations and changes tofreeitself fromtheoldbeatellpatllof quackeryandcllarlatanism.Inthe last century, the general abuseofpaintsof everykind, and perfumeryofdif.ferent varieties, often most injurious tohealth, gave birth to preventives, someIV PREFACE.timesunnecessary andexaggerated. Since,ho,vever, the perfume:, discarding a multi-tudeofabsurd receipts, nowasks fromthechemist combinations formed with a viewto p-ygienic consi(lerations, and studies thecrudematerialsand co-ordinates thenl in arational manner, perfumery has at last tal{ennewfornls in perfect harmony ,vith goodtasteandrefinement.The art of the perfumer, with the ad-vances,vllichit has recentlymade, and itspresetlt scientificcnaracter, isworthyof theCOllsideration andsupport of rationalpeople.Of thetruthof thisassertionI hopetogiveaproofinthiswork, and unless thedesireto be useful has made nle thevictimofastrollg delllsion, I trust that this guide,whichhas been madeascompleteas possi-ble, ,viIIadvantageouslydirect themanufac..PREFACE. vture and COlltribute to the progress \vhichskilful perfumers aredailymaking in thatinterestingbranchof industry.NEWLEBANON, N. Y.,June 19,1868.1*SEOTIONI.PRELI 1\11 NARTESCHAPTERI.OdorsandperfumesCI-IAPTERII.History of perfumesPAra:252532CHAPTERIII.Manipulations. Decoction- Infusion - Dissolution-Maceration-Filtration- Decantation- Discoloration-Epuration,Distillation-Conservationand dryingof flowers-Bleaching of sponges-Conservation ofperfumes 41CHAPTERIV.Enumerationanddescription of the most usual per-ftunes 53SEOTIONII.NATURAL ESSENTIA"L OILS 83CHAPTERV.Natural state of essential oils-Their mode of formation-Their general properties - Classification -Adulte-rations R5VBl CHAPTERVI.PAGEExtraction ofoils-Bydistillation-Distilla-tionof light oils-Distillation of heavy oils-Distilla-tionby reaction-By impregnation-By expression 93CHAPTERVII.Essential oils themostused inperfumery SEOTIONIII.ARTIFICIALESSENTIALOILSCHAPTERVIII. 100 121Artificial oils-Oilof brandy and wine-Oils of rUID-Strawberry - Pineapple -Pear - Apple - Apricot-fi'Ieloll-Quince-Cllcumbers- Lemon - Nitro- benzineTable . 123SEOTIONIV.DISTILLED'VATERSCHAPTERIX.Formulreof distilledwaters .SECTIONV.ALCOHOLATES, ORSPIRITS.-TINCTURES CHAPTERX.SpiritsCHAPTERXI.AromaticTincturesCHAPTERXII.CompoundTinctures . 137 140 147 148 152156COXTEKTS;SECTIONVI.lXPAHEALCOHOLICEXTRACTSOF' FLO\VERS'VITHFUGITIVEODORS . 160CHAPTERXIII.ProcessesforthemanufactnreofextractsSECTIONVII. " 161:MIXTURESOFEXTR.ACTS ANDAROl\'IATICTINCTURESTOOB1'AINSCENTEDWATERS 164CHAPTERXIV.FOI:.IllUlrofOfscentedwaters.SECTIONVIII. 164COMPOlTND PERFUl\tIES AND C08:\lETICS 1\f08T E ~ I -PLOYED 168CHAPTERXV.Perfumedalcoholates CHAPTERXVI.BonqnetsandnosegaysCHAPTERXVII.Perfumesforpastesand pomadesSECTIONIX.VINEGARSCHAPTERXVIII.Toiletvinpgars 168 185 19 (j 202203xMilks LotionsWatersDenti fricepowdersOpiates

SECTIONX.MILKSANDLOTIONSCHAPTERXIX.CHAPTERXX.DENTIFRICES .CHAPTERXXI.CHAPTERXXII.CHAPTERXXIII.SEOTIONXII.

209 209 213 217 217 226 2:30COSMETIC PASTES-POWDERS-TROCHES-SACHETS 233CHAPTERXXIV.Pastes .CHAPTERXXV.

CHAPTERXXVI.Cassolettes-Pot pourri-Trochistspastils .SEOTIONXIII.FATTYSUBSTANCESUSEDIN CHAPTERXXVII.Oils-Greases-Wax 233 23!) 248 258 2G3CONTENTS.CHAPTERXXVIII.XlPAGEEpuration and preparation of greases for pomade bodies. 273S F ~ C T I O N XIV.POMADES-CREAM CERATES-COLD CREAMS-SER..KIS, ETC. 276CIIAPTERXXIX.PomadesCHAPTERXXX.POlnadeswithessential oils.CHAPTERXXXI.Perfluned hair oilsCHAPTERXXXII.Anticalviticandregenerative pomadesCHAPTERXXXIII.Cosmetic pomadesforthe skinSECTIONXV.DEPILATORIES.CHAPTERXXXIV.FormulrefordepilatoriesWHITESANDREDS.CHAPTERXXXV. 277 284 286 287 289 295 297 300WHITES.Bismuth-Whitesof bismuth-Ceruf;eor whitesoflead-Whiteof zinc-Whiteof talc-Whiteof baryta 301..xuCHAPTERXXXVI.REDS.PAGECartbamine-Garancine-Coehineal-Carulin- Carluine-Bresiline-Differentformsof red 305SECTIONXVII.SOAPSCHAPTERXXXVII.Preparationof soapCHAPTERXXXVIII.Toiletsoaps XVIII.BATHS.CHAPTERXXXIX.Cosllletic bathsSECTIONXIX.HAIRDYES. CHAPTERXL.Formula' forhair-dyes CHAPTERXLI.Economical scents--Flavoring ExtractsCHAPTERXLII.Newandperfectedprodnets 314: 316 319 v ... 328 335 337 345 350PRACTICALGUIDEFOR TIlEPEllFUMER.I)RELIMINARlE s.CHAPTERI.ODORS AND PERFUMES.ANodor, ingeneral, is an invisible, imponder-able ~ n 1 a n a t i o n , fromfragrant substances. Odorscannotbepropagated inthe sarnernanner as ca-loric and light; their movements are not submittedto the laws of reflection and refractiqn. Theyspread incessantlyinthe air, which is their vehicle,andfollQ"vthecurrentsof theatmosphere.The work:s ofdistinguished chernists and na-tural philosophersprovethatan odorisproducedbyvery sITlall molecules which are disengagedfromodoriferous bodies; thesenloleculesfloat intheatmosphere, bangingonthedifferentsurfacestheymeet, communicating to themtheirproper-ties. W hentheodoriferousmoleculesareincon-tact with the olfactory membrane, the sense ofsmell is brought into action, and the brain percei yes326 ODOHSPERFUMES.the odor. Theolfactoryapparatusisthen" indisftpensabletothe impressionof odors.. E'orbeingsIlaturallyor aceidentally depri vedof this organthereisnoodor, just as no soundsexist for hirndeprivedof thesense of hearing.The odoriferous molecules or particles are ofsuch infinitesimal tenuity that thebodies,vhichdisengagethemall thetinle seemnottoloseany-thingoftheir weight, orat least tomake Insensi-blelosses; and numetoustheseparticlesmaybe, anexactcalculation. hasshown that onegrainof muskhadinaradiusof ninetyfeet dis-engaged, inoneday, 57,839,616particles, withoutanydin1inutioninits weight. This same grain ofmusk, abandoned to itself for six months in alargegarret, communicateditsodortoall theob-jectsintheroom,beingweighed inanaeCll-ratescale, ithadexperiencednoloss.A rose, in a few hours, can perfurne 10,000cubicfeet of air, \vithout losinginweight.A piece ofsugar"onwhichasingledropof 0;1of thymeis poured, andbeing groundwithalittlealcohol, eon1municates the odor of thylne to 25gallons of water.Haller kept for forty years papers perfumedwith one grain of alnbergr"is; after thistin1etheodor wasasstrongasever. Bordenavehaseval-uated a rnolecule of' carnphor sensible"to theslnell to 2,263,584,OOOthof a grain. l30yle hasobservedthatone uraehrnof assafootida exposedODORS AND PERFUMES. 27totheopen air hadlost in six daystheeighth partofonegrain, frorn \vhichKeill concludesthat inoneminuteithadlost1-69,120thof agrain, and,byanothercalculation, hedeOlonstratesthat eachparticleis2-1,OOO,0001000,OOO,OOOthofone eubieinch. In that calculation, he supposes the particlesequallydistantinaspheretheradius of whichis5 feet; but as they nlight be morecompressedtowardsthecentre, Keill beganagainhiscalcula-tion, andfoundthat inthatcaseitisnecessary tomultiply by 21 the numberofparticles,57,839,616,gi venabove, which produce 1,214,631,936; andhe found that the volunle of each particle is38-1,OOO,OOO,OOO,OOO,OOO,'OOOth.The prodigious tenuity of odoriferous mole-culesmade Prof. Walterthinkthat thesensationof odorswasnotduetothecontact of these rnole-culeswith the" olfactorymernbrane, but to a dy..namic action of the odoriferousbodyon the srnell... .Ing sense.Dr. Starch, of Edinburgh, has published a paperinwhiehwefind someverycurious experimentson the erriission and absorption of odors. Accord-ingtohistheory, thetissues of animal substanceshave more affinity for odors than vegetable tissues.Theabsorption of odors by outward tissues is sub-jecttothesame lawthat governs theabsorptionof caloric, thatis, blacl{ tissues absorb the mostodor; andthis absorbing power dimini8hcs,as the28 ODORS AND color becornes lighter, in such a mannerthat whitetissuesarethosewhichabsorbodortheleast.Odors impregnate all bodies in different degrees,andcombine withnearlyall theliquids. Glovesretainfor a long timetheofambergris;. paper andcotton, thatof musk. Oils andgreasesretainverywell balsamic andvolatile principles.Water, and especiallyalcohol, dissolve perfectlythearomaticprinciplesof flowers. It is on thisknowledge that is founded the fabrication of waters, essences, pastes, pomades. Thus the per-fume of flowers, solight, sofugacious, isrenderedstablebyart and industry. At the moment theperfume escapes from.the flower, man seizes jt,mastersit, and'uses it toincreasethesum of hisenjoynlents.Odoriferous bodies may be soall the timeoronlyatcertain periods. Thussomeexhaletheirperfume in the morning, othersinthe middleofthe day, some in the evening, and manyduringthe night. Different circumstances may alsocause the jntensity of the odorstovary, such asdampness, light, heat, etc.; the addition of ano-ther substance, also, develops the strengthof anodorwhich, alone, wasnearlyinsensible.The extreme subtilit.y of odors, and the toofugaciousimpression theyexerciseonOUf organs,until nowhave beenanirnpedirnent totheirclas-sification. IIowever, sorne scientific men haveODOHS AND PERFUMES. 29tried to divide theminto groups. Linnreus forrnedseven di visions :-Arornatic,Fragrant,A?TI Ur08(( l,A lZiaceous,Fetid,Re]Julsive,Nauseous.Fourcroy diviJesthemintofivegroups :--Muquous,Fugaciousoily,Volatileoily,Aromaticandacid,IIydrosulphurous.Virey, finding these classifications to be in-sufficient, established-twenty ordcI's, which \veshall notenU01erate. It has been also proposed.todivideall theodorsintotwo greatclasses: theagreeableandthedtsagreeable / butthisdist5nctionis only relati ve, for an odor agreeable to onepersonisdisagreeabletoanother. Theseclassifi-cations are defecti ve, since they make knownonlythequalityof odorsand givenoidea as totheir indviduality. While chernistry has notpassed anycertain judgmenton the existenceofpJ'imitiveodors, ashas beendone bynatural phi-losophyforcolors, it is, however, fair topresumethat the great familyof odors is reprod need bySox30 ODORS AKDthe mixture orcombinationofseveral prImItIveodors. It appears to us thata classification, basedon the individual characteristicofodors, would'be n10re natural. The question is, to choose,amongstodors, those which offer thenlost decidedcharacteristics, and to. make of them the type,around }Vhich analogous odors shouldbegrouped.The different families of such a classificationwouldbear the name of the mother odor, in suchamanner that onlytothefamilynameshouldtheodor and the different shades it producesbere-ferred. Th\ls theodorswhich have theperfumeof therosebelongtothefamilyof theRosodores;those of thern usk, totheMuskodores, etc.Whilesuch aclassificationisnot perfect, it willgi ve anideatothereaderof aclassificationmorecompletethananyproposeduntil now:-ROSODORES.- all vegetables?"vhch gveanodor silnilartotherose.JASMINODOREs.-Jasmine andts substtutes.A GRANTIODORESo- Orange, lemon, bergarnot, etc.MYRTODOREs.-Myrtle, pinks, etc.LABIODORES.- Odors furnishedbylabes.MAGNOLIODOREs.-Badiane,fennel.LAURINODORES.- Camellloaand succedanes.MENTHODORES.-Mnt andz"ts di.fferentspecz"es.1fUSKODORES.-Mu.sk, cvet, castor, etc., continuingthus forall the plants, &c" wthatypeodor.We shouldobserve thatodor and areODORS AND PERFUl\lES. 31not synonymous. The former designates anyagreeable or disagreeahle ernanation, \vhile thelatterconveysonlytheidea of anagreeable odor;the word perfume mayat the same time desig-nate a good odor and the substance which fur-nishes it; it isin this sense that incense, myrrh,ambergris, etc., are enumeratedalnongst perfumes.32 HISTORY OF PERFUMES.,ellAPTERII.HISTORYOFPERFUl\lES.THE useof perfumes, odors, and arolnaticsofeverydescription, hasbeen kno\vnfromthernostremote antiqnity. 1'he nations of Africa andAsia, Greece and Rome, were prodigal in theiremplo.y. More sensible than we to the impressionswhichexcite to pleasure, theancientsconsideredsweet odors as necessarytotheir existence. AtAthens and Corinth, the love of perfumes wassogeneral that people assernbled.in perfumers'shops in the sarne manner as we donowinthecoffee-houses. AtRome, won1enusedsuch a pro-fusionof perfumes thatit was feared, foratitne,that Arabia exhausted, could furnish no more,andlawsweremadetopreventtheabuse.Inthosetimes, thepassionfor perfunleswassostrong that rich and poor could notdo withoutthem. They were lavish0d everywhere, undereverycircumstance; in faoa and drinks, in themidst of the feasts in which they celebratedBacchus andVenus; in baths, on the body anddresses. 'There were no festivals, rejoicings, orfuneralsinwhichperfu n1es werepot used. TheyIIISTORY OF PERFUMES. 33were burnedbeforethecradleof thene\vly-borninfant, around-the bridal bed, andonthemarbleof thetomb. Theywereofferedtothe godsandgoddessesasatribute.. andanhomage; toglorifyheroes, to honor kings,.in tenlples, in the midstof palaces, inthe public places, everywhere, andatall times.Paganism which deified beauty, ugliness,virtues and vices, pleasure and love, had averygreat nunlber of gods; it cornprised gods andgoddesses of the first and second order, the heroes,half-gods; the numerous family of nymphs andlower divinities, the number ofwhich exceededthirty-two thousand. The prodigious number ofaltars arisingeverywheretothose divinities, theluxury of the rich and the magnificence of thefeasts,theembalming of the dead, and the funeralsof the rich, required an enormous quantity ofperfurnes.Thepriests of Memphis burned, "threetimes aday, perfumes inhonorof the sun: at therising,benzoin; at noon, myrrh;at the setting, a perfumecomposedof sixteeningredients.The disciples of Zoroaster threw six timesadayperfumeson the altaronwhichtheholyfirewaskept.At Corinthperfumesalways burnedaround thealtarsof Aphrodite.The eastern church used every year six thousandfourhundredpounds of perfurnes, whichwerecol34 HISTORY OFlected on an area of twelve miles, and broughtintoSyriafor thewantsofthealtar.Inadditiontotheperfumes offeredtothegods,\vefind the aromatics employedinthepreserva-tion of thedead, andburnedonfuneral piles or incassolettes duringfu nerals.AmongsttheEgyptians"the dead were mUffiIni-fled, that is, preserved in such a manner thntthousandsofyears after, thesouls might resumethe possession of their old bodies, which theywould find in a perfect state of preservation.Suchwas thecreedof that superstitious people;alsothedead were embalmedinsoperfect aman-ner, that corpses buriedfor fOUf thousand yearshavebeenfound still inaperfectstate of preser-vation. rr'he substances used by the Egyptiansin this operation "verepo\vdered myrrh, cinnanlon,aloesaudsome otherarornatic, resinousandbitu-rninous substances, among which we find thefarnousnatron.rrhe Indians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, andnearly"all the ancient nations of Asia andEurope,hadthehabit of burning theirdeadandcollectingtheashes. It,vasamatterof pride for the familyto cover the funeral pile with perfun1es. rrbelarger the quantity, thernore honored were thedeadandthefarnily.Aroundthegravesof Agamernnonand IIypo-Iyte, which exist yet, for threen10ntbsperfu rnesandarornaticswereburned.lIIST.QRY OF PERFU!IES. 35On the occasionof the funeral of thefavoriteof Alexander the Great, thequantity of perfulnesandaromatic resinsburnedduring the transporta-tion of thebodyandon the funeral pile exhaustedall thestoresof perfun1eryinIndia' andArabia.Artemisia, Queen of Caria, used annually thesum oftwentythousand dollars forthepurchaseof theperfumesburnedat themagnificentmonu-ment shehadraisedto theKingherhusband.When Sylladien, twohundredandtwenty-sixloads of perfumeswerespreadonhisfuneral pile.Nero used more myrrh, cinnamon, a.nd cassia forPoppooa's funeral than Arabia could furnish inoneyear.WhenPornpeius entered Neapolis, cassolettes ofperfumesburnedinthewindowsof everyhouse;:fnd when Antony entered to meetCleopatra, the air was darkened by the vapor8audsn10keof perfurnes.Thevoluptuous Satraps of Asia lived all thetimeinan atmosphere loaded with the s\veetestperfurnes. The flarnbeaux which lighted theirsumptuous parlors, in burning, spread deliciousodors; their furniture was rnade of odoriferouswoods; theymixedpreciousaromatics withtheirfoodanddrink; artificial fountains wererunningintherniddle of their apartn1ents, and even ontheheavycarpets they used as beds, sweet perfurncs,verethrown.36 HISTORY OF PERFU}IES.At a rnagnificent supper Othogave to Nero,they secretly disposed in the"dining-room goldandsilverpipes, whichpouredinto itaromaticvaporsand costly essences. Perfumed food and drinkexcited the heads, and numerous smokingcas-solettes completed the sweet intoxicationofthesenses. Inthisthe Romansimitated theGreeks,whoin all timewerepassionatelyeagerfor per-fumes, as historyteachesus. Themostesteemedwines of theAthenianswere thoseinwhichvio-lets, roses, andother sweet flowers were infused.Anlbreous wines, or those rendered bitter bymyrrh, mastic, andaloes, werethemost esteemed.Butthe passion for perfurnes becamesoviolentin Rome that horses, dogs, furniture, walls, etc.,wererubbed with them, andtheirabuse was sogreatthatafear was entertainedthatthere wouldnot be enough for the use of the altar. Then, undertheconsulship of LiciniusCrassus, alawwas pro-mulgatedwhichrestrained considerably their use,andwhich evenspecified thekindof perfumetobeofferedtoeachgodorgoddess.Castus toSaturn.CassiaandBenzointoJove.Musk toJuno.Aloes to1fars.S a f f r o ~ totheSun.1fastic totheMoon.Cin narnon tonlercu ry.Arnbergris toVenus.HISTORY OF PERFUl\IES. 37Thenumber of substancesusedbytheancientsasperfumesisfabulous; their mixtures, prepara-tions, and compositions areincalculable. Accard-i ngtoour scientific men, theEgyptians, Grecians,and Romans wrote. more booksonperfumesandtheir mixtures thanthelearned men of themiddleages wroteonontology, whichwouldbeenormous.Some saythatthe i ~ n m e n e e libraryat Alexandriawasspeciallycomposed of worksonthissubject.The Greeks and Romansnot only drewtheirperfumes frorn A.rabia (the productions of thiscountrywould not havebeensufficient), but im-portedaromaticsandspicesfromIndia. Topro-vide for the increasing wants of their heroes,nunlerouscaravans startedfromEgypt at acer-tainseasonof theyear, andwent into theeasternpart of Asiatofetchloads of perfumes and spices,and then came back- to dispoReof t ~ e m in thestores of their most commercial cities-Tyre,Byblos, Smyrna] Byzance, Corinth, A.lexandria,etc. Theportsof thesecitieswereal ways filledwithrnerchantships, whichtookthesesubstancesto transport and disperse themin the differentcountries of Europe.Inthefollowingextractfromanoldauthor wefind some detailsconcerningtheplants and aro-maticsusedforfuneralsinantiquit.r :-" When a patient had breathed his last, branchesof cypress and weeping-willowwere suspendedto the door. The undertakerscame and began438 HISTORY OF PERFUMES.to wash the corpse, then put it into a coffintrimn1edwithdriedtr.unksof reed and papyrus.rrhey covered it afterwards with perfumes com..posed ofncense, myrrh, anome, opobalsamum, andaloes. Thehead was surrounded withawreath oflaurel, lily, whitepoplar, or white roses, accordingtotheage, sex, social position, etc. Itremainedthusfor one or two days exposed totbepublic.After thisexposure, the corpsewas placed on afuneral pile built of different resinous woods.Other perfumes, such as cassia, myrrh, incense,cinnamon, etc., were thrown into the fire to' destroythedisagreeableodordisengagedbythe combus..tion of the body. When thewhole was consumed,theasheswerecollectedandput intoan urnwithdifferent perfumes. 'rhe urn was carried in aton1b surroundedbyfunereal trees; anddifferentplants, sucbastheviolet, narcissus, andhyacinth,,vere sowed around andconsecratedtothemanes.Lastly, thefriendsof the dead, whoaccompaniedthebodytoits lastresting place, unitedtogetherinafuneral feast, inwhichthey had beans, lettuce,ache, lentils. Libations were nlade from cupstrimmedwithviolets."At the fall of the Roman Empire, this tradediminished inEuropetobeconcentratedinAsia.With the old civilization the lawof perfumesseems to have disappeared. Duringthe epochwhen the capital ofthe world ,vas invaded b.ybarbarians, carrying with them fire. and sword,HISTORY OF PERFUMES. 39luxury, thearts, and.poetrytookrefuge in'othercountries, andtheperfumes followedthem.However, modern civilizationwasthrowing outitsroots, andraiseditselfontheruinsof theold.Anewera began-an era ofgallantryand cour-tesy, in. Which the rights of beautywere recog-nized.1Then women, to assure definitely theirpo\ver,l calledperfumestotheirassistance.The taste for perfumes reappeared in the middleages; queens and princesses spread their usearoundthem, and toplease themthe lordswerenotlonginimitatingthem.At the baptismof Clovis, odoriferous candleswere lighted and perfumes ,vere burned at thedoors of the church, and clouds. of incense as-cendedinhisname.Charlemagne, after his victories, loved to restin his palace, in which precious resins were burned.SaintLouis lovedperfumes, and used to say intheplains of Palestine, "Oh, delicious country ofArabia I I longfor thyconquest, to offer to theLordthytnyrrhand incense I"Inthepornpsof theCatholicChurcb, ,vhich, inits processions, wereso magnificentlydeveloped,perfumes andflowersoccupiedthefirst rank.. Amongstthe, highlords of themiddleages, thehands and mouthwere washed after rneals withrose water; the rich had fountains pouring outaromaticwaterstoperfumetheirdining-rooms.At afeast given byPhilip the Good, Duke of40 TITSTORY OF PERFUl\fES.Burgundy, oppositethetablewas thestatueof achildwhich\vasthrowingoff rosewater.Under Louis X\T. the ladies who frequentedthe court adopted everyday a newperfume, insuchmanner that the rooms in the palacewereone dayperfurned with tuberose, next day withamber or aloes, and thefollowingdays byotherperfumes. Thevarietyof thesesweet odors, theart ofspreadingthemontheclothes, soasnot tooffend thesenseof smell, gave tothat court thenameof the perfumed court.Since thattimeperfumeshave becomeaneces-sitytothetoilet. The art of perfumery, towhichchemistryhasgivensomuchhelp, knowshowtofixthemost fugitiveodors, andoffer themundera multitude of forms, the s\veetness of whichtestifiestothesalubrityof their use.

CIIAPTERIII.41:MANIPULATIONS. DECOCTION-INFUSION-DISSO-LUTION-MACERATION -FILTRATION - DECAN-..ANDDRYINGOFFLOW-ERS-B.LEACHISG OF SPONGES-CONSERVATIONOF PERFUMES.Decoction.ANoperation which consists in boiling in aliquid anorganic substance, so as to extract itsacti ve princi pIes. Water saturatedwith the ac-tiveprinciplesofthesubstance, is called adecoc-tion. The decoctionisdifferent fromtheinfusion.Intheinfusionthewater ispouredwhileboilingontheorganic substances to beexhausted, whilein thedecoction thesubstance is boiledwiththewater. Eachoperationgi yesadifferent result, aplant doesnotyieldthe sameprinciplesby decoc-tionasbyinfusion. By decoction, theextracti ve,resinous, andbitterprinciplesareobtaineJ, whileby infusion a larger quantity of aromatic andvolatile princi pIes, essences, etc., are extracted.These principles may produce on the aninlaleconomyan effect whichdiffers fromthat which4*42 l\fAXIPUL.\TIONS.results fromthose obtained bydecoction. It isthenveryimportant nottoconfoundtheln.Thetimeof theebullition is regulated bythenature of the substance treated by decoction.Leaves, and especially flowers, ought to be ex-posedonlytoashortebullition if theyareodor-iferous; roots and aromatic barks should besubjected toa short ebullition, because the aro-matic principles evaporate and are decomposedbythe action of beat, or aredissipated. Conse-quently, it is veryimportant inthe preparationof decoctions, toknowthewayboiling w ~ t e r actson the different substances, so as todiscontinuetheoperationatthepropertime.Infusion.Infusionconsistsinpouringaboilingliquid onanorganicsubstance, soastoextract the princi-ples, and,vhen cool, to separate the product bydecantationorfiltration. (SeeDecoction.)Dissolution.The operationbywhicha'liquidbodycomnlU-nicates that statetoanyother body, whateverisitsnature. 'rbe dissolutionisalsocalledsolutorz.Any body which disappears in "vater or some otherliquid, without destroying its transparency, is solu-ble, and theliquid which contains it iscalleda dis-solution. Inthis state-thebodyhas not lost itsprilnitive properties. Sugar,rlissolved in water, has 43the samesweet tastewhichcharacterizedit \vhensolid. Waterisaprecious sol vent in the sensethat bodiesdissolvedinit retaintheirproperties.Insoluble bodies render liqmuddy, beingdepositedafteratimemore or lesslong, andformwhat is called a precptnte orI-Iowever,wemust notconsider as insolubleall the bodieswhichrender water muddy. Veryfew substancesare absolutely insoluble, for the most" insoluble,suchassulphateofbaryta, chlorideof silver, &c.,aresensiblysoluble; truly, thequantityof wateris so great that underordinary circurnstancestheyInaybeconsidered as insoluble. Amongst solu-blesubstanceswemust notrankthose whichde-compose inwater andform newproducts are solubIe. The dissolution, in separating themolecules, divides bodies so as toweaken thoseproperties ,vhich would be too energetic in thesolidstate. Thedissolutionoffersthebest eXalTI-pIe of the great divisibility of Inatter. Gasesdissol ve in proportion to the pressure they aresubjectedto, wbilesolidsubstances aregenerallylTIOre soluble in warmthan cold water. Lime,Inagnesia, and zirconaare exceptionstotherule.Aliquid which has dissolved a substance in sogreataquantitythatitcannotdissol ve anyInoreof "the same Sil bstance under ordinary circum-stances, is called a saturatedsoluton. 'Vhen asubstanceismore 'soluble inawarmthanincoldliquid, the llissolution saturated at the ordinary44: MANIPULA.TIONS.temperaturewill dissol ve a larger quantitywhenwarm, then it is super saturated, and when al-lowed toand cool slowly, the excess ofthe sol uble bodyisdeposited, and the rnoleculesassumepeculiargeometrical forms calledcrystals.Maceration.. Anoperationwhich consistsinallowingto staytogether for sornetime, at the ordi narytempera-ture, a solid substance and a liquid, forthe purposeofdissol vingSOIne of itsiInmediate principles, orto extract the soluble principles, or, lastly, topreservethem.Filtraton.Anoperation whichconsistsinpassing a liquidthrougha porous body, which retains the solidsubstances. It has for its object to clarify. theliquid, ortocollect thesolidbodieswith it,or to attai n these two results at thesametinle.thefilter isapiece of felt, or aframecoveredwith a piece ofwoollen or cottoncloth,orevenapiece of filteringpaper; sometimes it iscomposed of vesselswithseveral bottoms, piercedwith holes and covered withone or several bedsof straw, cotton, sand, orcharcoal. Generally, itisnecessarythat thefilteringsubstance shouldbeporous, orsodi videdasto let theliquid pass andretain the foreign bodies which are suspendedinit.MANIPULA45Decontation.Anoperation, theoqjectof which istoseparatealiquidfromsolidsubstancesdepositedinit. Todecant, pour slowly, sloping little by little, thevesselcontaining the liquid; but in our judgmentitisbettertousesiphon.DiscolorationHas for its oujecttoremove the color fromvegeta-bleandanirnalsubstances. Generall.y, liquids arediscolorizedby two processess : by anrnal charcoalor by chlorrlone. Animal charcoal comprises t\VOvarieties: The animalorbone black, pre-pared frombones of different animals; andivoryblack, prepared bythe calcinationof smallpiecesof ivory. Thisblack, whichisvery light, bright,lamellose, friable, and difficult to incinerate, hasthe property of discolorizing many liquid andsolidsubstances. It isusedprincipallyin refiningsugar.Touseit in the laboratoryit has to be puri-fied bywashingswithdistilledwater; sometimesitistreatedwithone-fifthof itsweightof hydro-chloricacidandwashingafterwards with boilingdistilledwater.Chlorine ina gaseousor liquid state, on accountof its affinity for hydrogen, destroys vegetableand animal coloring matters. It also destroysodoriferoussubstances, miasms, etc. Fumigations46 MANIPULATIONS..of chlorine gas irritate therespiratory organs, and,ifpractised inclosedplaces, mayproduce unplea-sant consequences. Chlorinehasbeen substitutedby aspersions ofchlorides, whichare lnixtures ofchlordes andhypochlorites.Epuraton.Thiswordindicatestwooperations-1st. Puri-.fication or Olarification, whichiseffectedspontaneouslywhen the aqueous, acid, or oilyjujces ex-pressed fromareallowedto stand until theydeposit their impurities, or until bya slightfermentationtheythrowoff these impurities byfloating themto the surface. 2d. Refinng. Inperfurnery, thegreaseswhichconstitute thebasesfor pomades arerefined, that is, made verywhitebyadding tothem seven or eight grains of tartar.icacid per pound, and then beating thern with asOlall broom.

The operation bywhich liquids areconvertedinto vapor by the help of heat, and this vaporiscondensedbycooling. Theprincipalobject ofthis operation is to separate liquids fronl fixedsubstances, or froIn those having a different de-gree of volatility. The distillation isina peculiar apparatus called an alembc. cucurbit, the head, and the refrigeratory, consti-tute thethree essential partsof the aleInbic; and1VIANJPULATIONS. 47bytheirformexercise anotable inBuenceontheresults of the operation. r.!'he cucurbit, or lowerpart, inwhichareplacedthe substancestobe dis-tilled, ought tobe constructed insuch aInannerastopresenttotheactionof heatthelargestsu r-facepossible. Thebottonl isconvex, whichdispOAsitionis more advantageous thanflat' orconcavebottoms. Itmust be very wide. The head, theobject of whichis toconduct the vapors fromthecucurbit'totherefrigeratory, hasbeenthe objeetof manychangessince its origin. At first it reAceivedtoo considerable a development, and wasthenexposedtobetoorapidlycooled; the resultwas that the vapors were condensed in it andfell back into the cucurbit, thus rendering theoperationmuch slower. fro remedythis imper-fection, the neckof the headwas made witha kindof gutter, which received the condensed vaporsand brought themto the running pipe. It has beenfoundnecessarytomaketheheadverysmall. Itis simply formed of a covered copper pipe, ofwhichoneend is exactlyadapted totheopeningofthe cucurbit, whilethe smaller is adj nsted totherefrigeratory. However, abeadthusdisposedmust not be too small, and the lower openingespecially ought to be large enough to presentlittle resistance to the vapors which rise intoit.The?Oefr1geratoryisthe part inwhich thevaporscondenseand resurne the liquid form. Intheold48 l\iANIPULATI ONS.alernbics it sirnply consisted of a straight pi pe,passing throughawooden box full of water or ice.But thespacewasnot large enough, andthecon-densation was imperfect, and this pipewas then8Ubstitutedbyaworm01' spiral pipe, surroundedby coldwater.Distillation is one of the most important branchesof theperfumer's art, sinceit basforitsobject theproduction of essential oils, essences, odoriferouswaters, vinegars, &c. Thus, on account of thevolatili ty and delicacy of the substances, thealembic is the principal and the most useful in-strument of thelaboratoryof theperfumer.Conservationand Dryng of Flowers.Plants must be collected in clear and dryweather, aftersunrise, at the rnornent the flowerbegi nstoblossom; theyaretobe separated fronlearth, grass, leaves, etc.Sorne are dried in the shade on cloth or onframes suspended fromawall, some aredriedintheoven, andothers in a baker's o v e n ~ etc. Alltheseprocesses aredefecti veeRecentlyit has been tried to keep plants byMason'sprocess, thatis, byaprogressivedesicca-tionunderstrongpressure, butthis operationde-stroys the appearance of the pla,nt and rendersadulteration lnoreeasy. Thebest n1ethodisthatused by M. Violand, of Colrnar (France). ThebirilJingheemploysis 180 feet long; it hasthreeMANIPULATIONS. 49stories. The dryingroornsareestablishedinthesecond and third stories; the first is the store-room.Inthestore-room are on each side large boxes her-metically closed, and containing each 1000 poundsof thedriedplants. Inthesecond story are threeranksof,voodenlattice-work, separatedinallthelength by passages wbieh perrnit free access tothe frames. Superposed, one on the other, areten frames for the second story, and fifteen forthethird, atadistance of 1!foot fromeach other.This spaceismore than sufficient for the renewingof the ai r, and to permit the ITIell to. put uportakeofrthe plants. Spreadontheframes, 6 feetlong and 3 feet ,vide, the plants dry admirablyand quickly. 'rheir surfaces being entirely ex-posedtotheair, thereisno necessityforturningthemover, as in theoldprocess, ,vhichrequiredfrom3to4weeks, butisnowdoneinfronl 36to48hours. Bythismethodtheleaves keep theirformsanddonotfall intopo\vderindrying.The walls of the drying-room are made of wood;theyare pierced at regular intervals with open-ings, destinedtorenewthe air.' These openingsare closed oropenedat will soastoregulatethedrying-roomwhenthe airistoodamp.The dispositions are the same for the upperstory, onlythenumberof framesisgreater.Thesedrying-roomsareamongthemost usefuland ingenious conceptions of onr tirncs, and it550 l\1ANIPULATIONS.would be a great improvement if all perfumemanufacturersadoptedthem.Bleachingof Sponges.Sponge is a production of the sea, about .thenature of which naturalists have not always agreed.Some lookonitasbelonging totheanimal king-dom; others classify it anlongst vegetables, andsome make ofit a kind of polypary Inade byzoophytes.Sponge presents itself intheformof amass offibrous t.issues more or less dense, flexible, andelastic, capable of absorbing water, and coatedwhile living with a half-fluid gelatinous' sub-stance.Sponge exhaustedby ether, alcohol, andhydro-chloric acidcontainsCarbon . 47.16IIydrogen. 6.31Oxygen . 26.90Nitrogen . . 16.15Iodine 1.07Sulphur 0.09Phosphorus . . . . 1.90/ () ~ of;Before being employedfor the uses of tne toilet,or evenfor certain domestic uses, sponges asex-tracteafromthesearequirethe following prepa-rations :-1. Dipping thernforsixorseven daysin coldMANIPULATIOXS. 51water, beingcareful to change thewater severaltimes daily, and each tirne pr.ess the sponge inthehands.2. Disembarrassthem ofthe small stonestheycontain bymacerating themfor 24 hoursinthefollo\ving mixture:-Hydrochloricacid 1 part.Water . 20parts.3. Washthemseveral times inpurewater, anddiptheminsulphuricacid.4. Repeat this lrnnlersion for fourdays, beingcareful. topressthemfromtimetotime.5. Leave thern24hoursinrunningwater, anddrytheminthe air andtheshade.Conservalz"on of Perfumes must be kept in closedvesselstoas-sure a good state of conservation. Objects tobe exported towarmcountries shouldbe of thefi rst quality, so as to resistatmosphericvariations.Itis aknownfact thattheseaair, excessive heat,and thunder storms decompose perfumes of thesecondquality.Pomades should not be exposed to the sun,which melts theIn, nortodampness,whichrendersthernmusty.Perfumedwaterscontaining alcohol are" easilykept, andevenbecome betterbygrowingolll.Toilet soaps, rosepowders, toothpowders, vege-52 1\fANIPULATIONS.tablered(rouge), \vhite of pear], ought tobekeptinadryplace.Toilet and other vinegars, rose milks, andvirginalcreams, ought to be protectedfromthefrost.Distilledwaters shouldbe keptinacool placeprotected fromthe contact of the air and light.Thebottlesmustbe entirelyfilled and well closedwithglassstoppers. Someveryaromaticwaters,suchas those of orange flower, roses, peppermint,preserve their aroma for a long tirne by onlycoveringwithpaper orparchmentthe opening ofthevesselswhich contain them. Others, as anis,fennel, etc., lose their odor ina shorttimewbenkeptinopenbottles.vVaters distilled from odorless plants are rnpidlydecomposed by contact with the air. A veryimportant fact to be observed is that distilledwatersmustbekept in bottleswhich have beenpreviouslywashed,vith pure water, the sn1allestquantity of ri ver or fountain water occasionssometimes incompounddistilledwatersakindofalteration which develops in thema gelatinousBUbstance not yetexamined, but siu1ilar topecticacidinconsistency.:MOST USUAL PERFUMES. 53CIIAPTERIV.ENUMERATIONANDDESCRIPTIONOF THEMOSTPERFUMES.THEsweetestflowers, theperfumes, andgener-ally all aromaticsubstances areproducedinEast-ern countries. However, some are collected intemperate climates, which have it fugitive andsweet odor. The three kingdorns of naturefur-nishodors,.but thevegetable kingdomexcelsthetwoothersinnumber, variety, andsweetness.Fromall the substancesusedinperfumery, weshallnarneonly theperfumesandaromaticsmost1nuse.OFANIMALORIGIN. OFVEGETABLEORIGIN.Amber,Incellse,Myrrh,Benzoin,Storax, .Mastic,Bdellium,LabdanuID,Liquidambar,Bah,amsof Toll1," Mecca,RORe-wood,

":Musk,Civet,Castoreum,Alnhergris.,- ..J.- GelangaRoot, Leaves, 1I ..... ;:oFlowers,25 L .....Fruits ( , ISeeds, J '-.J Nutmegs,Vanilla,Cloves,Ginger,Anise,Amhrette,Thyrrle,54 THE MOST USUAL PERFUlIES.OFA:NIMALORIGIN. OFVEGE'l'ABLEORIGIN.r- r- .J--.Sandal wood, Origanuul,Aloes" Lavander,Cedar H Cardamonl,Sassafras" Angelica,CeylonCillnaluon, Rose,Cassia, Heliotrope,LemonPeel, Jasmine,Orange Peel,Bergamot, TnLerose,SnchetRoot, Rue,CalamusAromaticus, etc. etc.

Ananimal secretionof abro\vncolorfoundinexcretoryfollicles about the navel of arnalerumi-nant, called musk.deer, found in China, Tonquin,rrhibet, and Tartary. l\'Iusk is of the strongestodoriferous substances; it is very lasting; its odoradherestoall thesubstancesaroundit. InspaR-modie affections, whenmuskis giveninternally,it exhales throughthepores ofthe skinand im-pregnates the transpiration with a nlusky odor. Itissaid thattheeffect of theodorof Inuskon Ii v-ing animals issoviolentthat hunterswill bleedat the nose, if they neglect certain precautions"Thendeprivingtheanimal of hisbag.The musk has thesingnlar propertyofbeingdeprivedof its odor when mixed with milk oflinle, cherry-laurel water, ergot, mustard oil, etc.1Iincral l{ermes gives itthe odor of onions. Ne\vTIlE l\10ST USUAL PERFUIVlES. 55experin1ents will probablybringtoligbt a greatmanyothercombi nations.According to the analyses of :111\f. Gaibonrtand Blondeau, musk contains:an2monz"rt, elain, cholestern, an acid combined 'loitha'1nmonia, peculiar volatileol, hydrochlorate lirne,carbonate of gelatine,phosphate of l1'rne,hairs, sand, salto.f lme, organicacd, etc. .Chemistry has already succeeded in preparing akindofartificial musk. ,In. Germany theyhavemanufactured it for some time, by treating onepart of essential oil of amber byfour parts ofnitricacid. A kindof yellowrosin, having theodor of musk, isobtained. The odor of n1uskismetwithalso inmanallQ.s.everal--an-i-mB.l s. Alex------ .ander the Great, and the learned fIaller, transpiredtheodor of musk:. Thebuffalo, several kinds ofrats, deer, antelope, andmanyotheranimals, emitthe smell of musk during the seasonof' rutting.Amongst birds, ducks, o\vls, and pelicans.A mongst the reptiles, sorne snakes, crocodiles, andsomespecies of turtles; andrnanyinsectsexhibitthe same phenornenon. A multitude of plantspossess the odor of musk in different degreee.Lastly, the excrernents of some animals, such as theskunk, COOD, etc., haveamuskyodor.Musk is rarely ever usedalone. Its penetratingandtenaciousodormay affectthenerves, causingsome persons to faint, and sornetimes occasionsconvulsions; but this perfume beillg rnixed in

u TIlE MOST' USUAL PEHFUlIES.very small quantities with some others, such asthe anl bergris, lavander, etc., loses its offensivesmellandbecomesagreeabletotheolfactorie8.The trade distinguishes three kinds of musk.The Ohna rnusk or Tonqu'in,. the Bengal musk,whichcomprises the Thbct,. and the Tartary musIc.TheChinamusk isdi vided intothreeclasses;the first, called muskof the royal hunt, is inflatbladders, sornetimes ovoids, round; sometimeslong, dried, thin, soft to the touch, ofa'weightvarying frorn one drachmto one ounce. Theupper part of each bladder, which is pierced inthe middle byalittle hole, iscovered. with longhairs, of areddishcolor, thicker ontheedges thanon themiddle, and around theentire circumfer-ence; thelowerparthasnobail's; itbearsonthemiddle a red mark. Its appearance is wbitish-gray: The color of the muskin thisenvelop is dark brown. It isviscopsthe touch;. itsodor is penetratingand au btle; if weakened,it oughtnot to beammoniacalnorempyreurnatic.Thiskindisveryrareincommerce. Thismuskis exported in lead ortin boxes weighingfromsixteen to twenty-one ounces. Each bladder isenveloped in China paper (tissue-paper), whichbears aseal and the nameof theplaceit .comesfrom. To this first envelope succeeds anotherformedof Chinese varnished paper, andcoveredwithacoating of tar'.Thesecondkindhas about thesamepropertiesTIlE :MOST USUAL PERFUMES. 57as the first; its odor is less pure; it is a Ii ttleammoniacal. Itis exported, 1,in entire bladders,often bearing a seal similar to the above; 2, inbladders which have been opened, a n ~ do notbear aseal. The packings used are the san1e.The third kindiscontainedinbladders of variousshapes. The hair which covers themis lessabundant on the edges; they are damp, thickerthantheothers, andareal \vayssewed. Thepro-duct theycontainisheavier, it crushes anddriesmore easily; its odor is fetid and ammoniacal,andthetrueodor of muskis developed onlyaftersome time. Its perfume is less delicate. ThislTlusk isexportedinlead or tin boxes, weigh] ngfrom four to six pounds. The Bengal musk isnearlysimilartothe'ronquin, butitsodorisnotso delicate, and is some\vhat ammoniacal. Thebladder,s which contain it, generally, are not sowell closed, often sewed over, damp. The hairwbich covers the ski n is not so long, and isrnixed., The bladders ha ve not at their upperpart the, small hole\ve remark onthe Tonquin;theskinalso is thicker. It is exported in leadortinboxesweighingfronl t\ventyounces to sixpounds.Themusk of Tartaryis in flat, dry, and lqngbladders. The skin is thick, the upper part iscoveredwithshort hairsof awhitish-graycolor;theappearanceof thelower part isadirtygray.The Inusk itcontains is cornpact, and hasa fibrous58 THE :MOST USUALconsistency. Its oJoris little penetrating, atnnlO andeasilyevpporates.Falsification.-Asubstance as costly as rnusk:cannot bebrought fromits place of production.withoutbeing adulterated. 'rhus a great manythingshavebeentried to sophisticatethe preciousprod uct; dried blood has been mixed with.it,various animal substances, resins, wax, pieces ofskin, hairs, iron, sand, andmany otherthings. Amicroscopicalexamination will detectthe metallicand earthy parts; the incineration' also leavesthese substances. By passing a red hot ironthrough adulterated musk, the odor of resins,wax, and other animal or vegetable substancescan bedetected. For all the trials a specimentype shouldbe examinedat the sametime. Goodmusk: is verysolubleinwater, does not presenthard substances when pressedbetween the fingers;itcolorspaperreddish-brown.(}ivet.Thenarnecivet isgiven to all unctuous pro-ductsextractedfromacavity, nloreor deep,placedbelow theanusof theci vet (viverra civetta),andopening bytheoutside. That cavity, inthebottomof whichwemeet two glandularrecepta-cles, containsafattymatter similartomusk, of abuttery consistence; at first of a whitish color,whichbecomesbrownby time; of astrongodor,\\,hichissometimesfetid; of aburuing andacridTHE MOST USUAL PERFU.MES. 59~taste. Thissubstance, also called ci vet, ismuchused in perfuluery. Civets are found in AsiaandAfrica, principallyinAbyssinia, Guinea, andCongo. Thecivet isextractedfromthe bodyofthelivinganimal bycarefullyintrod.ucingalittlespoonintothereceptaclewhichcontainsit. TheAmsterdamcivetispreferredtothat oftheEastor India; that fromGuineawould bethe best ifitwasnot adulteratedwithstorax, orsome otherodoriferous substance. The civet received fromAsiais extractedfromthe Zibet, ananimal havinggreat analogy with the civet, but different insorne peculiar characteristics. Lavender, thyme,andother scentedwatersacquire muchsuperior-itywhenpreP3:redwithasmall quantityof ci vet.Civet enters intothe fabrication of several com-pound perfumes, among thenl the powder ofChypre; it is used also bytobacconists to per-fume snuff: Civet is adulterated with honey,lard, rancidbutter, andother f a t ~ y bodies-blood,sand, earth; thentheproduct hasnot itsgenuinecolor, odor, or consistency, and contains oftengrain.smore orlesshard-characteristicsnot pos-sessed.byaspecimenof genuinecivet.Oastoreura.An animal substancewithavery strongodor,oftensecretedinapocket that the beaver(castorfiber) carries under the tail. Castoreunl js nowvery little used in perfunlcry, but in rneJicine60 TIlE MOST USUALit is employed successfully as a powerful anti-spasmodic.Am.her (Succinum).(Arabic, arnbar),"A fossil, indurated, vegetablejuice, transparentor translucent, sometimescolor-less, butusually of some shade of yellow or brown,and negatively electrified by friction."Eng. Oyclop.An1ber.Amineral substance, hard, brittle, susceptibleof afinepolish, andacolor moreor lessyellow;morehighlyesteemed when whitish; its specificgravityvariesfrom1.080 to 1.085. Its taste isnotagreeable, has 'poodor, butacquiressome byrubbingit. Amber, exposedtothefire, becornessoft, meltsand burns, giving out the sametimeanagreeableodor.Amberisgenerallyassociated,vitbdeposits ofcombustibles inearths of recent formation. It isInet in ar,enaceousmatterswhicnaccornpany Zig-ntes, and often in contact with it. When asso-ciatedwithfossil woods,it is generally adheringto the vertical parts. This observation wouldprove that amberisnothing else thanatransfor-mationof a resinoussubstanceproduced bythosevegetables which now belong to the nlineralkingdom. AmberisfoundinFrance. Threeorfour millions of pounds are generally importedfronl the coasts of theBalticSeu, wherearefuundTHE }10ST USUAL PERFUMES. 61the most celebrated deposits. 0 FromDantzig toMemel theexport of amberisthe objectof acon-siderableindustry It is found in beds ofsand,stone, andfossil woods. Generally it is in littlenodules; however, sonleti mes considerable massesaremet with. Recently therewasdiscovered, be-tweenMemelandKonigsberg, a specimen weigh-ingtwenty-fivepounds. It isinsolubleinwater,soluble in alcohol, or ina solution of subcarbonateof potash; melted insiccative linseed oil, andincorporated with spirits of turpentine, it fur-nishesaverygoodvarnish.CAmbra grisea).-The originof this substancewasfor a long timeunknown. Itis consiqerednow--tobea secretionformed in the intestines ofsomecachalots, prin-cipally the Physeter macrocephalus. It isfoundinirregularmasses, andsometimesinlargequan-tities, floatingonthewatersof thesea, orthrownon the shore of the coasts of Ooromandel, Su-matra, in China, Japan, on the coastsof AfricaandBrazil, M.adagascar, Sicily, etc. It isformedin concentric layers. Its fracture is shelly, covered\vitb gray spots, mixed with black, yellow, andwhitepoints. It isopalescent, of avariablecon-sistency, sometimessoft andtenacious, sometirneshard and brittle, returnjng, however, the im-pression of thenail. Its taste is greasy. Its odor(j62 THE MOST' '[)SUAL PERFU}IES.is but agreeable, and it is principallydis-engaged byheatandrubbing.Arnbergrishas been" sometimes found in verylarge pieces. The Dutch Company bought onepiece King of Tidorwhichweighedonehundredandseventy-four pounds. Hesold it forthreethousandfourhundreddollars. This samepiecewassold in Europe for tVlenty-two thousanddollars. The. FrenchCompanyinIndia bought aball weighingtwo hundredand thirty-sevenanda half pounds for ten' four hundreddollars. This substance was so common years agointhe islands of the Polynesia that the inhabitantsofTimorusedittocalktheircanoes.Several chenlists havefoundambergristocon-sist of-Ambreine .Resin.BenzoicacidCarbonaceous substance. 52.7. 30.81.15.4Ambergris softens byheat, and when meltedc()nstitutes athickoil; blackish, veryvolatile. Itburnswithrapidity, andgivesabrightflame. Itis insoluble in ,vater, very solnhIe in alcohol,ethers, andBornefixedoils.Ambergris is rarely used alone. It is by mixingit withsomeotherperfumes that its odor is de-veloped. Theessence oj amber ofperfumers isanalcoholic tincture of ambergris, to which oils of4drachms.2 "TIlE MOST 63roses, cloves, lavender, &0. are added. The per-fume known bythe nanle of essence qf civet isobtainedby themaceration, ina quart of rectifiedalcohol, of-CivetAmbergrisAfterthreedays of maceration it is filtered, andkeptinwell-corkedbottles.It isbypouring a fewdrops of this tinctureinto scented waters, tooth-powders, soaps, &c.,thatanambrosial odorisgiventhem.The greatest consumption of ambergris is incompoundingwaters andperfuITJesfor thetoilet;nevertheless, medicine uses it sometimes in theatonyof some of theorgans.AmbretteIsalsocalled musk seed, and belongstoaspeciesof Ketmie, aplant belongingtothe familyof theMalvaces. Itis theodoriferous ketmie(Ehobiscus-el.moschus), whichisfoundinthe East Indies, andinthewarmcountries of America, that furnishestheambrette. Thepodwhichcontains it is pyra-midal, about two inches long. The fIo\vers areyellow, withapurplebottom; the calyxfalls be-foretheflower.Ambretteis used in perfumeryon account ofitR odor, whichpartakesat the sametimeof that6.4052.0036.005.6064 TIlE :MOST USUALof musk and vanilla. It wastheperfumegene-rallyusedforhairpowder.Thatseedisfoundto contain:-'VaterandligneousmatterMucilage .Albuminousmatter .Fixedoils, I. IConcretematter, IOdoriferous substance,rColoredresi n, j100.00Resirl.Aproximateprincipleof vegetables, cornposedof oxygen, hydrogen, and carbon. Resinsaresolid,brittle, odorless, insipid, or acrid substances; alittleheavier thanwater, yellowish, and more orlesstransparent. All canbe electrified negativelyby rubbing; they are bad conductors of electricity.At the ordinary temperature the air is withoutaction on them.. They arein ,vater,sol uble in alcohol, ether, fixed and vo1atile oils.There exist remarkable differencesintheresins,according totheir origin. Theymaybedividedinto three classes, viz: the liquid, solid, andgummy resins. They are also distinguished asnaturalandartificial. Manyof. themexude fromthetrunksandbranchesof trees.Lqudresins are excretive products of vege-tables of an inflammable nature, having a con-THE MOST USUAL PERFUl\IES. 65sistencybetweenvolatileoilsanddryresins; thebest known are thebalsams of Canada, copaiba,Mecca, pitch, theliquidresinof larch, theturpen-tines of Chio, Venice, etc.Solidresz"ns are pitch, resin, white pitch, liquidstorax, sandarac, benzoin, dragon'sblood, etc.Gum'my resins are the Amrnoniac bdelliunl,galban urn, assafootida, elemi, Iabdanum, e t c ~R e s i n ~ are nluchused, either in theartsorinperfumery. We shall describe the most im-portant.Benzo1:n.Aresinous and inflarnmable substance, with averypleasant odor, obtained bymaking incisionsin thetrunk of Styraxbenzoin. It is importedfromthe Philippine Islands' and Sumatra. Twokinds areknownincommerce: one, whichis thepurest, is called an2ygdaloid benzoin, becauseit isformed of whitish drops, half transparent, oval,similartoalmonds, coated bya reddish concretejuice, granular, and very brittle. The otherspecies is thecornmon benzoin, of a darleer color,more opalescent, coarserin its texture, anddoesnot present the dropsobservedintheabove. Itis the one most usuallyemployed in perfumeryandthearts.Amygdaloid ben,zoin is in compact masses, formedof amultitude of agglomerateddrops; itsfractureis white, when recent, yellowor reddish when6*66 THE MOST USUAL PERFUMES.more or less old. It is on account of its formthat it is designated bythenameof amygdaloid.Sometimesitisalsomet withinseparated drops,flat, andlong, yellowish outside, whiteinside, andhavingtheappearanceof anahnond.Amygdaloid benzoin hasodor of vanilla;that imported fromSiamis the sweetest. Per-fUlnersdissol ve it in alcohol, andprepareatinc-turewhichenters into the compositionof manypreparations. The coslnetic knownbythenameof virginal '1nilkisasimpletincture of benzoin.Cornmon is a reunionof drops mixedwith ligneous andearthysubstances, which gi vetothemass, whenbroken, alight-grayishappear-ance, spottedwith white. Another kindiRalsoDIet with, thefractureof whichisreddish.The characteristics wbich distinguish benzoinfromother resinous substances, andwbiehplaceit in the first class of natural resinous balsams,are, thatitcontains a peculiar acid, towhichthename of benzoichas been given; united to resinousmatter; and is more odoriferous than the resinsproperly so called. It is also partlysoluble inwater, aridcompletelysoinalcohol.According to Bucholz, benzoin is foundtobeCOlDposedofresin, benzoic a sv.bstance sz"?nila1toPeruvianbalsam, anaromatlc solublenwater and alcohol, andligneousdetritus.Ithasbeen thought for a long time that benzoicacidexistedonlyintheresin of that name. NowTHE :MOST USUAL PERFUl\IES. 67thisacidiseasilyextractedfromsomeothersubstances, in which its presence "vas hitherto un-known. Thus the balsams of Tolu, Peru, andothers; castoreum, vanilla, elrn-bark, the oil ofbitter-aln1onds, etc., giveabenzoic acid similartothatextractedfrombenzoin.The most simple manner of obtaining thejloloers of benzoin, orbenzoicacid, isthe following:Spread, uniformly, powdered benzoin in a cast-ironkettle; aconeismade of verysmoothboard, which is applied and pastedontheedgesof thekettle. Atthetopoftheconeisanopen-ing, closed with tissue paper. rrhe apparatusbeingthusthe kettle is heatedoverasand-bath, and the heat iskept up for a few hours.Thebenzoicacidisvolatilized, andadheres to theedgesof the cone in the formof white needles,whilesteamescapes throughthetis.suepaper.Abenzoin isfound in the trade which is de-prived of its benzoic acid by an ebullition inordinarywater, or in lime-water. This fraud isdetected bythe feebleness of the odor, and thesweet, balsamictasteoftheproduct.Myrrh.AgumresinimportedfromArabia andAbys-furnished, it is thought, by the Laurusmyrrhce. Myrrhis solid, reddish; its fracture isbright, andveryfriable.' Itisfoundinthe tradeinsmoothpieces, but muchoftener rough. It is68 THE ~ I O S T USUAL PERFUMES.principallywhenreduced to po\vder, and mixedwithsome other substances, that myrrhexhalesamost agreeableodor.This gumresin is tonic, antiperiodic, and balsamic; it entersintoseveral pharmaceutical pre-parations. Sacred history teaches us that Easternnationslookedonmyrrh as one ofthemostprecious productions of the earth. In Moses'time and before,itwas burned on altars, mixedwith benzoin. Myrrh was one of the presentsbrought bythethreekingstoChrist at thetimeof his birth.Labdanum.AreAinwhichnaturally exudes fromtheCretancystei. Purified fromall heterogeneous substancesthis resin bas a thick consistency; its color isbrown or blackish; its odor, when developed, isanalogous to that of the ambergris. It is notmuchusedinperfumery now, butitsuse insoapsandfattybodieswouldgiveexcellent results.Mastic.Anaromaticresin, ofawhite and transparentcolor, furnishedbythetree called lentisk. East-ern nationsusedthisresinasacosrnetic; womenchose it to whiten their teeth and perfum-e thebreath.Incense.An aromatic gum resin, which, in burning,gives out a perfumed vapor. Theincense re-ceived fromAfrica and Arabia exudes from aTHE MOST USUAL PERFUMES. 69953056kind of juniper-tree peculiar to those coun-tries. That from Tndia exudes fronl the treecalledBoszvella"; itisinyellowtears, round, andlarger than the grains of the African incense.TheAfrican incense is in reddish tears, and inirregular piecesmore or less reddish. The firstare round, with a tarnished and waxyfracture.Theybeconle soft under theteeth; theyhave anaron1atictaste, wbichisa littleacrid. Incense inlumpsbasastronger tasteandodorthanthat intears. It is often mixedwith detritus of bark,andcontainssmallcrystals of carbonate of lime.TheIndian incense is nearlyentirelyformed ofrorind, yellow, half-tarnished tears; this is of a.remarkable purity; it is abundantly found incommerce.Incense is partially soluble in alcohol andwater; it meltswithdifficultyby heat, burns withafinewhiteflame, and gives a whitish, abundant,andfuliginousflame, theodor of whichisagreea-bleandpenetrating.Theanalysis ofincense gives-ResinYellow, volatile oil, with the odor oflemonGumCarbonateandsulphateof potash, chlo-ride ofpotassium, phosphateandcar-bonateof lirne . 10070 TilE :MOST USUALBalsams.Balsams are aromatic substances, of one-halfliquid consistency, which naturally exude frorndifferent trees. Theydiffer fromresins in theirconsistency. Res.ins are dry and friable, whilebalsams belong tothe class of thesoft andoleagi-noussubstances, andpossessall thebalsamic pro-perties. Chemical analysis has foundthat benzoicandacds, resinandvolatileol, enter intotheircomposition.It isinArabia, and amongst Easternnationsthatbalsams andbalsamic compoundswere origi-nallyused. During theCrusades, balsams begantobe introduced into Europe. Generally theywerebelieved tobe veryefficacious for the cureof wounds. Now, perfumers findinbalsams thebasis ofmany cosmetics,either liquid or solid.The greater part of those balsams which areburned in cassolettes are nothing but amixtureof balsamswithsome resinous or aromatic sub-stances,such as benzoin, vanilla, &c. The mostemployed inperfumery are-CANADA BALSAM, or vJhte balsam. It is verytransparent, hasthe same fluidity as turpentine,fromwhichit differs only initsodor, which issweeter, and analogoustothat of lemonorMeccabalsam. Itis extracted in Canada froma kindoffur tree calledBalsamof. Gilead, MECCABAL-SAM (orJudea). Itisaresinwhich exudesfromTHE MOST USUAL PERFUl\IES. 71atree growing inArabia the Happy. The trueMecca balsam, which is veryrare, is limpid andwhitish,acrid, aromatic, apdvelYpenetrating.BALSAMOF PERu.-A balsamic resin, obtainedbythe decoction of branches and leaves ofthejfyroxylonperuiferum, which growsinthe warm-estparts ofSouthAmerica, principallyin Peru.I t istransparent, of a consistencysi milar to thatof boiled syrup. Its colorisof averydarkred-dish-brown; its odor agreeable and penetrating.BALSAMOF TOLU.-A balsamic resin knownincornmerce by thename of Americanbalsam, pro-duced by a species of Myroxylon, which growsprincipally intheprovinceof Carthagena, in theneighborhoodof the town of Tolu. This balsamhas. a soft consistency, agilded, greenish-yellowcolor; anagreeablearomatic taste, a sweet smell,analogous tothat of benzoin.Storax.Aresinous gumobtained fromtheincision oftheStoraxofficinale, atreegrowing inCaramania,Syria, and some other of Asia Minor.There are two kinds, one solid and the liquid. The perfection ofstoraxdepends on itswhiteness. As soonas liquidstoraxis collected,theedges of the incision made in the tree arescraped, and fronl this operation results anotherkind of storax of inferior quality. They aremixed. The storax thusnlixedis brought from72 THE MOST USUAL PERFUMES.Caramania andtheisland of Cyprus. It isintroducedintolargekettles, andby nleans of fireandstirring, itisseparatedfromtheeartby partsandother impurities. Thus cleansed, it is put intobags, and exported in that condition. The dryor solidstorax is a resinous substance, of whichtherearetwo kinds incommerce-the calamitestorax, andthecommonstorax.The calamiteis in masses formed of amygdaloiddrops, of ayellowish:-;\\' bitecolor, soft, opalescent,voluminous, reunited bya brown reddish sub-stance, forming avitreous andtransparent coating. Its odor is sweet. Its tasteis aromatic,perfumed, andalittleacrid. Itis dry and friable.The secondkind, or the common storax, bas asoftconsistency, areddishcolor, fat. Itis inirregularmasses, dry, brittle, light, full of small brightpar-ticles; itbasanagreeableodor, butlesspenetrat-ingthantheabove.Camphor.Camphorisnow consideredbychelnistsasoneof theimmediate principles of agreat many vege-tables, amongwhich we name ginger, cinnamon,sassafras, zedoary, galanga, cardarnorn, andothersof the same family; it is met with alsoin theLabies, such as lavander, thyme, rosemary, hys-sop, etc.Thereareseveral varietiesof camphor, butthetwo most common incon1merce are t b o ~ e of JapanTIlE MOST USUAL PERFU1tIES. 73and -Ohina; the latteristhemost esteemed. Thetreewhich produces camphoris theLauruscam-phora qr camphor tree. Theprocess for obtainingit isverysimple. The branches of thetree arecut insmall pieces, boiled in water, and as theebullition progresses, the camphor floats on the sur-face. Whenthewater hasremovedall thecam-phor, it is passedthroughasieve, allowedto cool,andthus the solidified carnphor is collected. Thusobtained, itisinacrude state, andmust be fied; forthis purpose it is mixedwith a littlelime,andsublimedin vesselswithflat botton1S overasand-bath..Refinedcamphorisrnouldedin cakesweighingfromtwotofourpounds. Itisverywhite; unc-tuoustothetouch; itsfractureisbright;ithasapeculiar penetrating odor.;it can be po\vdered only\vben mixedwithalittle alcoholorether. It issol ubIe inalcohol, ethers, fixed andvolatileoils,greases, me] tedresin, etc.An artificial camphor is manufactured bypassing a slow current of hydrochloric acid gasthrough spirit of turpentine, kept at alowtern-perature. The gasis absorbed, and, after'a certaintirne, awhite Stl bstance, havingtheodorof cam-phor, is deposited. 'fhis Stl bstance is thehydrate ofcamphene, orartijicia l camphor.Camphorisused in perfumerytoflavortoothpo\vders, sachets, andotherpreparations.774 THE MOST USUAIJWoodand Resin oj Aloes.This veryodoriferous wood is irnported fromChinaandtheislandof Socotora. It is' foundinthe rnarket insmall pieces of fi veor six inches.It issufficientto rubit to have it giveanagree-able odor; \vhen burned, it gives an aromaticsmoke.Inancient times aloes was used in religiousceremonies and for the preservation ,of dead bodies.It was the basis of thefamous panaceaof Para-celsus, who pretended to have discovered thesecret of prolonging humanlife beyonditsnatu-ral limits.Aloes-wood in China talces the place of theconlpoundperfunleswe burninhousesunder thename ofodoriferouscandles.Sandal-u)oodIs thename giveninthe tradetothreekinds ofwoods importedfrorn the East Indies. Wedis-tinguishtheyellolvishsandal, thevJhite sandal, andthered sandal.Theyellowish sanrlal is heavy and compact, withstraight fibres ; "its color is yellowish, its tastebitter, itsodor is as 'a mixture of Dlusk, lernon,androse. Avolatile oil, withavery strong odor,isextractedfronl thiswood bydistillation. The1vhte sanda l differs frorn the above only by itscolor and its odor, which is weaker. The reclTHE MOST USUAL PERFUMES. 75sandal is dense and heavy; its fibres are sometimesstraight, sometimesundulated. Ithasno sensibleodor. Itstasteisslightlyastringent. Theyellow-ishsandal istheonlyoneused inperfumery. IntheEast itisburnedincassolettes. The Chinesenlixit withrice-pastetomake perfumedcandles.In Europe it is used only to make perfumeryboxes, etc.Rosewood.Thiswoodisthus calledonaccountof its colorandodor. Itisfurnishedbyseveral treesindif-ferent countries-in the Canaries, the Antilles,Jamaica, Cayenne, andalsoinOhina. This woodhastheodorandcolor of therose. Itis withoutsap-wood, coveredwithathincoatitlg, compact, afi negrain, of apale or yellowishcolor, wi thveinsof abright orblackishred. Generallyit is moreorlesshollow. Itisused inperfumery.Rosewood, which alsobearsthe name of Rhodes-wood, wasimported fromRhodesandsome otherislandsof the Ci-recianArchi pel ago. It is hard,heavy, of adeadleaf yellowcolor, darker in thecentre than at the circulnference. Its taste is bitter.Itisoily, and takes fire eaeily. Itsusesare thesameasordinaryrose,vood. By distillationthesewoods yieldavolatile oil, whichhastheodor ofroseoil.76 THE MOST USUAL PERFUMEaCassia of Perfumers.Aspecies of locust, originallyof theEast, andcultivatedinItaly, SouthofFrance, Algeria, etc.An excellent perfume is extracted from its flowers.Itisemployed in several preparations, andprin-cipallyinthealcoholatesorextractsof violet.Cinnarnon.The inner bark of several trees found on thecoasts of China and Malabar, in the IslandofCeylon, etc.Therearetwovarietiesespeciallyknown to thetrade-1. Aromatzc cinncl1non, fromthelaurus cassza, iscoarseandlessesteenledthan2. Ceylon cinnamon, the' product of the cassazcyloncu1n.Onnamonis the inner bark of the branches.There are three qualities of cinnamon, viz., the fine,the middle, and the commOD. It has been generallyascertained that it is the sound bark of the trunks ofthe treeculti vatedinCeylon, andthequality de-pendsontheage of theplantandthesize of thetrunksfromwhichthe barkistaken. Fine. cin-namonisobtained fromthetrunksandbranchesof thetreewhenabout three or four yearsold. Itnlusthaveareddish-yello\vshade.at first, asweettaste, a little acrid, averysweet and penetratingodor. Itstextureisfine. Itisverybrittle.TIlE MOST USUAL PERFUl\IES. 77The rniddle quality is thicker than the first,llaving been obtained from the older or largerbranchesortrunksof the tree. ffheinhabitantsof Ceylon introduce sonle in the packages theyrnakewiththefirst quality.The common cinnamon is obtained fronl thelargest branches or theold trees. It is rough,thick, of a Ii vid yeHowcolor, hasan acrid taste,leavingson1eviscosity .onthetongue, of astrongsmell similartothatof bed-bugs. Bydistillationit gives more essential oil than the two otherqualities, butoil isheavieranditsodornot sos"veet.The adulterationsofcinnamon consist in thesubstitution of other barks more orlessanalog-ous(..Jtoit, or byexhausting it of its essential oil byin-fusing it in alcohol. Butthesefalsifications areeasilydetected.Orris Root.Froma plant belonging to the family oftheIrdes. are several kinds, viz: 1st. Theroot of the German orris (oris nostras), whichgrowsonold \tvalls, is horizontal, rough, coveredwithagrayepidermis. It is whiteinside. Fresh,ithasaweak odor of violetsand an acrid.2d. Theroot of theorris of Florence jllJren-tin.a), islarge as the thumb, heavy,has a finewhitecolor, anacrio andbitter taste, andadecided odor7*78 THE MOST USUAL PERFUMES.of violets. 3d. The root of the orris, or falseacarus of the inarshes (acorus palustr1"s). 4th.The root of the fetid orris(irishas, beenrecommendedasanantispasmodic.Nard.Aplant of thefamilyof thefamousinantiquityonaccountof theaphrodisiac quali-tiesattributed toitsodor. Itis in the root that. .residestheperfurne; is used sometimes in per-fumery.Oyperus Odoratus.Thisroot, liketheorris, hasanagreeableodorof violets, but weakerandof less duration. Per-fumers macerate it invinegar, and, after dryingitinanoven, reduceit to powdertoelnployit indiflerent preparations.Zedoary.Root of aplant belongingtothefamily of thecannacorus. It comes fromChina, Malabar, andthePhilippines, in small pieces two or three incheslong, similarincolortoorrisroot.Is used in pharInacy and perfumery-inthefirst asatonic, in the latter asan agreeable per-fUl1le.THE MOST USUAL PERFU:MES. 79Galanga.Rootof alittle treebelongingtothefan1ilyofthe cannacorus, which grows in the East Indias.Itsodoris atthesame. time strong andsweet. Itstasteispricking. TheChineseprepare fromitaveryessence, used to perfumethetea of the'Ernperor andgreatofficers of thecourt.Calarnvs Aromattcvs.Therootof the acorus calamus, a plant '\vhichgro\vsin dampand marshyplacesin theUnitedStates, France, andothercountries. This root isa littletliickerthan the finger. Atintervals it pre-sents knots. The bodyis straight, simple, com-pressed. The dried rhizomeofthis plant, comn10nlycalled root, isemployed .underthename ofcalamus aromaticus. Its aromatic odor is veryagreeable, and of long dnration; itsconsistenc.yis spongy; itsfractureisresinoid; its color lightyellow. It.isusedbyperfumersand togivetosome liquors a perfumeoforris andcin-nan1on.Catechu.There are two substances having about thesameproperties anddiffering in their originandsome other characteristics; theyare catechu andTheonlyoneweshall examine iscatechu. a long timeit was considered as an earthy80 TIlECSUALsubstance called terraJaponz"ca, because it wasprincipally irnportedfromJapan. Wenow knowthatitisavegetable extractive substance. Cate-chu existsabundantlyinthe pericarpofseveralspecies of thegenusalg_arobiaand acacia; in wood of the acacia catechu, in the nuts of theareca catechu, &c. It is extracted bysubmittingthepartsof the plantswhichcontainittoalongebullition in water and reducing the liquid byevaporation to two thirds of its volurne. Thepastyresiduumisdriedinthesun.Ithasabro,vncolor, issolid, not deliquescent;its density variesfrom1.28to1.39. It cannotbemelted; a strongheatdecomposesit. Thrownonincandescent coals it burnswithout leaving anyresiduurn. Solubleinwater, alcohol, vinegar, andwine. Its acrid tasteis astringent. It containsTheother proximate principles are anexttactve matter,catechucic acid, and aninsolubleresz"duumofanundeterminednature.It isusedinperfumerytomakesorne prepara-tionstodisinfectthebreath.Before using it, theperfumer has to purifyitto separate the earthit contains; it is sufficientto dissol ve it in boiling water, filter, andevaporatethefiltratetothe proper consistency.Sometimes catechu is adulterated with an ar-gillaceousearth, of a bro\vnish-red color. Thismixture is easy to detect; it adheres to thetongue, doesnot rnelt inthemouth, isnot sol uhIeTHE MOST USUAL PERFUMES. 81inwine, weak alcohol, or vinegar, and\v hen calcinedleavesaresiduum. Whenadulterated withvegetable juices, it is sufficient to add a little. brownchlorideof iron toanaqueous sol ution, ablack orvioletprecipitate is thrown down, insteadof the green given bypure catechu. Ifit con-tainsstarch, afewdropsof atincture of iodineinits aqueous solutionwill give a blue color. Ifmixedwith alum, theaqueoussolutiontreatedbyamn10nia and chloride of bariumgives a whiteprecipitate, which is not produced with purecatechu.V(lnilla.Fruit of theepdendrum, vanilla, aplant of'thefamily of the orchides, which grows principallyinMexico. Itisabeanfromthreetosix incheslong, the odor of which is well known. It iscollecteda short time before ripening, then it iscovered withavarnishmade fromcoco or castoroil, soastoprevent thevolatilizationof the aro-maticprinciple. In the tradeitisdistinguishedbytheterms flat aDdlong.., Sometimes a vanilla is found in commerce whichhasalready been used. By chemical processesthegreatest part of the perfuIlleEas been extractedtomake anessence.It is muchused in confectionery andperfurnery.Itsodoriferous principles havenot beenwell de-82 TIlE MOST USUAL PERFUMES.termined; oneisapeculiar essential oil, theotheranodoriferousacidsimilar tocinnalnicacid.Nut-meg(Nuxmyristica).Fruit of thearomaticnutmeg, atreeoriginallyfromthe MoluccaR. Nutmegiscomposedof threeparts, the outside, ,vhichis rough, called browse;the otber, called mace, which is the shell of thealmond; thethirdisthepartcallednut.After the nutnlegs are collected, they are de-privedof thebrowse andexposed to the sun todrythem; lastly, they are dipped in lime-waterandbarrelledtobeexported.. By pressure, a concrete oil orbutter, with a verys\veet odor, isextractedfromthe nutmeg; if dis-tilled, a strongly aromatic essential oil is' obtained.SECTION II.NATURALESSENTIALOILS.THE odoriferous principles of plants may bedivided into three l{inds: 1. Theessential oils;2. The camphors, balsams, resins; 3. The volatileethers,similar tothose whichgivetheirperfumestowines and fruits. Theseprinciples, accordingto the plants, exist in flowers, leaves or fruits;sometimesinthe trunk and bark, in the woods androots. Thus mint, thyme, etc., containthisprin-cipleintheleaves andstems; rose, jasrnine, tube-rose, etc., in the petals; cinnamon, in the bark;anis, etc., in theseeds; orris, intheroot, etc. etc.The different partsof the same plantsometimesaflorddifferent perfumes. Greenoranges distilledgiveaproductknownbythenarne of petit gran;theflowerssubmitted tothesarne distillationgi venerol, and fromthebark the oil of Portugal isextracted.Thedissection of plantsand their microscopi-cal examination have made known thefact thattheodors of the flo\versof the plants had thei rorigin in the sexual apparatus; that the odors84 NATURAL ESSENTIAL O I L ~ .fromtheleaves, trunkandbarkarefurnished bysmall vesiclesfilledwithessential oils. Theodorofthe leavesandtrunksisnot destroyedby thedeathof theplants, while that of theflowersdis-appearsgenerallyafter the fecundation. DOll bleflowersbeing sterile, have their odor more lasting.Thesefactsareof the highest importanceto thegro,verof plantsfor theuseof theperfumer.ESSEN'rIAL OILS.CIIAPTERV.85NATURALSTATEOFESSENTIAL OILS-THEIRlfODEOFFORlVIATION-THEIRGENERALPROPERTIES-CLASSIFICATION-ADULTERATIONS..1Vatural State--ModeOf Formation.ESSENTIAL oilsaretheproduction of thevege-tablekingdom, and areconsidered bybotanists as .secretions. Itistothe presence of essentialoilsthat flowers, leaves, roots, etc., owetheodor theyexhale. Some plants, in their natural condition,are without odor; nevertheless, an essential oilmaybe extracted fromthem, after grinding theorganic tissue - for e x ~ m p ] e , the root of thehorse-radish. The oil isnot readyformed in it.,but itselements pre-exist in an isolated forminpeculiar cells. If these cells are broken, theliquids they contain are mixed, a spontaneousfernlentationtakesplace, andtheoil "\vithapene-tratingodorimmediately appears. The interven-tion of water is necessary; indeed, ifthe Bub-stanceisdried, noreactionwill take place. Theseessentialoilsarethebasis of the perfumer's trade.868 ESSENTIAL OILS.hratural Oils- General _Properties.Natural oils form a grouptheproperties andchemical nature of which are very variable. Theyhaveincomrnonthefollowing characteristics:-Astrong odor sirnilartothat of theplant fromwhich they are extracted, anacridand burningtaste, andtheproperty of being very inflammableand of burning ,vith a fuliginousflame. They arevolatile and- boil at different temperatures(from2840to always over theboiling point ofwater, buta current of steamat 2120carries themofl" veryeasily. Onaccount of this propertytheyhavereceivedtheveryirnproper name of volatileoils. They have no analogywithfatt.y substances.They are all soluble in ether, alcohol, sulphuretof carbon, andgreases; verylittle solubleinwater; but this liquid dissolves enough to re-ceivetheodorandtasteof theoil.Their densityis not uniforn1. Theyaregene-rally lighter than water, but some are heavier.rrhei r color varies between the green, yel!o\v,brown, or redshades. Oneamongst thernisblue(oil of camomile). Thesecolorsarenot inherentto the oils. Awell conductedrectification rendersthemcolorless. Generally, theyareliquida.t theordinarytemperature; someareconcrete, as cam-phor, or havea butteryconsistency, as"anis, rose,becomingfluid assoonastheyareheated. Thispropertyof solidifyingis duetoanexcessof theESSENTIAL OILe. 87concretematter whichentersinto the composition-ofa great many oils, and which has beencalledstearoptene. Coldseparates it fromthefluid partcalled eloptene, aswbentheoil freezes.Theactionof theair colors andthickenstheseoils, and transfOrlTIS theminto a resinous sub ~stance, whichdoes not pass over duringthedistil..lation. Ligbt greatlyfavorsthistransformation.Insteadof aresin, the products of theexudationby theair of the oils of cinnamon, bitteralmonds,cumin, arewell defined acids-thecnnarnic, ben-zoic, andcumnicacids.Chlorine, bromine, andiodinedecomposethem,taking the place of hydrogen, and convertingthenl intone\vcompounds. Phosphorus andsul-phurdissolveinthem; but thesecondespecially,whenwarm, decomposes themandchanges theirnature.Concentratednitricacidattacks then} violently,generallyw'iththeproduction of flame andexplo-sions. Whendiluted, theproduct of thereactionissirnilartothat resulting fromtheactionof theoxygenof theair; itisaresinor organic acid-sometimesamixtureof both.Some oils have the propertyof forming twocombinatiolls with alkalies. rrhe oils of cloves,pimento, mustard, are examples. Others, underthe influenceof a base, are decomposed into anacidwhichcombineswith the alkaliandaliquid88 ESSElfTIAL OILS.hydrocarbonwhichseparates. Sucharetheoilsofcuminandvalerian.The tendencyto playthepart of a"baseispe-culiartothoseoilswitht,vo elements (carbon andhydrogen-OloHs). By absorbing hydrochloricacid gas they give birthtocrystalline combina-tions, wbicharecalledartificia l carnphors.We see fromwhat precedes that great differ-ences exist between theessential oilsinviewoftheirchelnical characteristics. Theirhisoorywillnot be complete without describing each sepa-rately. They are very cornplex bodies, al waysrichincarbonandhydrogen; readilydecomposedunder the influence of chernical agents into aseries of compounds, having for their startingpointareal orhypothetical radical whichplaysapart similar to thatof cyanogen, viz: Allyl, 012lIlo ; benzoIe, C14H602; cumenyl, 0181I11.alassfficaton.Viewedaccordingto theirelementary composi-tiontheyare dividedintothree groups :-1. Essential oils with two elements, liquid isomericintheircomposition.2. Oilswiththreeelernents, oxygenizedhydro-carburets.3. Sulpburettedoilswithout oxygen, but con-taining sulphur andnitrogen.The following table exhi bits the pri ncipal essen-tial ol1s:-ITYDROCARBURETTED.Oil of lemon,orange,juniper,turpentine,copaiba,Eleopteneof roses.E S S E ~ T I A I . J OILS.OXYGENIZED.Oil of bitter almonds,cinnamon,anise,mint,lavender,valerian,Stearoptene of roses.89SULPHURETTED.Oilof mustard,garlic,hor:-;eradish,cress,assafootida.Fals1Jications.Volatileoils arefrequentlyadulterated bytheaddition of fixed oils, resinolls substances, andalcohol.Fixed oils maybe known by their leavingapernlanent greasy stain upon paper, while thatproduced by a volatile oil disappears entirelywhenexposedtoheat.When the adulterated oil is distilled with water,bothresinandfixedoil remainbehind.Alcohol may be detected by the milkiness of theoil when agitatedwith ,vater, after the liquids have.separated, the ,vater occupies n10re volume andtheoilless than before. Various methods havebeenrecommendedto detect thepresenceof alco-hol in volatile oils. M. Beral put twelvedropsof the suspectedoil inaperfectly dry watch-glass,andthenadded apiece of potassiumas large astheheadof apin. If thepotassiumrernainsfortenor fifteenminutes in the midst oftheliquid,thereiseitherno alcohol present orlessthanfourpercent.; if itdisappearsinfiveminutes, theoil90 ESSENTIAL OILS.containslTIOrethanfi vepercent. of alcohol; if nolessthanaminute, twenty-fiv.e percent. ormore.~ I . Borsarelli introduces small piecesofchlorideof calcium, well dried and perfectly free fromdust,intoa small cylindrical tube, closed at one end,and abouttwo-thirdsfilledwith theoil tobeexa-rnined, and beats the tube to 212, occasionallyshakingit. If there be a considerableproportionof alcohol, thechlorideisentirely dissol ved, form-inga solutionwhichsinks to the bottomof thetube; if only a very small quantity, the pieceslose their form and collect at the bottomin awhiteadhering mass; if noneat all, theyremainunchanged. Bernoulliaddsdry acetate of potasl;1to the oil: if alcohol be present, the salt is dis-sol ved, formingasolution fromwhich thevolatileoilseparates; iftheoil befreefroIn alcQbol, thesaltremainsdrytherein.Wittstein, who speaks highly of this test, hassuggestedthefollowing mode ofapplyingit asthe best: In adrytest-tube, halfan inchindia-meter andfiveor sixinches long, put not morethaneightgrainsof powdered dry acetateof pot-ash, thenfill thetube t\vo-thirdsfull of thevola-tileoil. The contents of the tube must bewellstirredwithaglassrod, taking care nottoallowthesalt toriseabovetheoil; afterwardssetasidefor a short time. Ifthe salt be found at thebottomof thetubedry, ~ t is evident thattheoilcontainsno ~ p i r i t . Often instead of the dryRaltESSENTIA.L OILS. 91beneath the oil is founda clear syrupy fluid, whichisasolutionofthesalt inthealcohol withwhichtheoil wasmixed. Whentheoil contains onlyalittlealcohol, a srnall portionof thesolidsalt willbefound under the syrupysolution. }.fanyoilsfrequently contain a trace of water, which doesnot materially interfere with this test, because,although the acetate of potash becomes moistthereby, it still retains its pulverulent form.,Oberdoffer places fromtwo to four drachms ofthesuspectedoil inaflat glassplate, in the mid-dle of which is placed a srnall glass stand, onwhich a.watch-glass with five or ten grains ofplatinumblack is supported, and the"whole iscoveredbya glassbellopen at thetop. In thecourse of a fewminutes, oil containingalcoholbeginstoreddenlitmuspaper, which inthe spaceofa quarter orhalf anhouris completelyaccom-plished, the elin1inatedvapors ofacetic acid aredeposited intheinterior of the glassbell, if thealcohol is present insufficient quantity, and canberecognizeddistinctlybyits odor. Toremovealldoubt he washes the platinumblackwith alittlewater, filters, saturates thefiltrate carefullywith potash, andaddsneutralchloride of iron, bywhichthecharacteristicodor of acetate of ironisobtained; and, after boiling, the fluid becomesdecolorizedandthehydratedoxide of iron is pre-cipitated. Froma series of experiments hecon-cludesthat itispossibleinthiswaytodetect the92 E S S E ~ T r A L OILS.presenceof oneor two per cent. of alcohol, andthat withfiveper cent. theodor issufficient withmostoilstoprovetheadmixtureof alcohol.It is frequentlythe case that essential oils ofsmall value are mixed with the more costly.Thesemay be detected bytheir taste, odor, andspecific gravity. Oil of turpentine, which is acommonadulteration, may beknown byremain..ing partlyundissolvedwhenthe oil is treated withthreeorfour times its volurneof alcohol. Tur-pentinemay be detected moreeasily by a verysimpleexperiment, basedonthe peculiar action ofdamp air on spirits of turpentine. Ifwith themouth weblow ina bottle three-quartersfull ofturpentine quietly enough not to disturb the liquid,alittle dampnesscondenses on the oil, andwhitelinesareformedwhich likecloudsdescendintheliquid. By repeating this experiment on purelavender or mintotIs, thetnoisture doesnot des-cend in theformofclouds, butas beads; .while,if mixed withturpentine, it behavesasturpentineitself. This phenomenon is produced withfi veper cent. of oilof turpentine, andveryfewoilsinthemarket will resistthat test.ESSENTIAL OILS.CHAPTERVI.93EXTRACTIONOFESSENTIALOILS-BY DISTILLATION-DISTILLATIONOF LIGHTOILS-DISTILLATIONOFREAVY OILS-DISTILLATIONBYREACTION-BY!1\{PREGNATION-BYEXPRESSION.THEprocesses employedtoextract fromplantstheessentialoil they contain are: 1. Thedstlla- of theplantswith natural water orwithsaltwater; 2. Byimpregnationwithfattybodies; 3.Bypressure.Distllaton.Distillationis generallyeffected in analembie,the ption of which isgi ve n inChapter I V.Thedistillation maybemade bythreedifl'erentprocesses.1. Withanaked fire, that is, whenthecucurbitisplaceddirectlyonthefireitself.2. Over awater bath, orsand bath, or oil oath-whenthe cucurbit isplacedin a kettlecontainingwater oroil in a boiling state, or insandheatedbyafurnace. In these three cases, the fireactsonlyindirectlyonthecucurbit, andthedegreeofheatisconstantlythesatne.3. Bysteam.thirdmethodofdistillation94 ESSENTIAL OILS.is made by meansof a curved pipe, whichcon-ductsthesteamfroma boiler intothealembic.Duringdistillation over a naked fire, thesub-stancestobedistilled aredisposedon a metall icdiaphragln, or on asimple bed of strawon the bottomofthecucurbit, toisolate the material fromthebottomandpreventitsburning.Adapt the head, then theworm, and the re-ceiver. Begintoheat, andr[}isethetemperatureto212. Thedistillation soon begins. When or-dinary water is used, all the salts it containsremain. at the bottomof the cucurbit, while thepurewatervolatilizesandcondensesin the worm,andthencerunsintothereceiver.The essentialoilsaredividedintolghtoils andheavy oils. The fi rst floats on the ,vater of thereceiver; thesecond, heavierthanwater, falls tothebotton).DISTILLATIONOFLIGHTESSENTIALOILS.Oil of Orange F l o ~ v e r .Freshorangeflo,vers .. 4pall ods.Purewater 12 "Introd uce the flowers into a bag of metalliccloth, place thisbag in the cucurbit containingthenecessaryquantityof water, adapt the head andthe refrigerator, heat and distil until no morewaterand oil pass over. Decantthe oil floatingon the surface of the water, and filter if neces-ESSENTIAL OILS. 95sary. During the operation, the refrigeratormustbekept verycool. Thecoolerit is, the better theproduct. Some macerate theflowersfor "twenty-four hoursinsalt water, andthendistil.Thefollowingessential oils nlaybeobtained inthesamemanner :-Bergamot,Bitter Orange,Cedrat,Lemon,SmallOrange,Orange,Wormwood,Camoroile, etc.Sage,Serpolet,Thyme,Anis,Caraway,Coriander,Cunlin,Fennel,SweetBasil,Hyssop,Lavender,Marjoram,l\Iarruba,Melissa,:Mint,Origanum,Rosemary,Byusingthe ]'lorentine receiver theessentialoil will runoff' by a small pipe, whichthusdoesawaywiththedecantingprocess.DISTILLATIONOFTHEREAVYESSENTIALOILS.Oil ofCloves.Coarselypowderedcloves 5pounds.'Vater 10 "Sal t 1 pound.1vfaeerate forty-eight hours, anddistil until theproductis nolonger rnilky. Allowtheessentialoil todeposit; decant thewater, \vhich ispouredbackinto the alernbie, and distil a second time.Thisoperationisrepeated twoor threetimes toextract all the oil. Ten days after, the oil is96 ESSENTIAL OILS.filtered to clarify and deprive it of all foreignmatters.The oils of cinnamon, Rhodium-wood, sandal,calamus, aloes, etc. etc., areobtainedin the samemanner.DISTILLATIONBYREACTION.Essental Oil ofAlmonds.Groundcake ofbitter almonds. 2pounds.Coldwater asufficient quantity.Mixthecakein thewater soastomake a lightpaste, which is introduced intothecucurbit andperrnitted to macerate for twenty-four hours.Afterthistime, distil by means ofsteam. Con-tinuethedistillationuntil it haspassedover fourpounds; separate the oil, which is heavier thanwater; put backthewaterinthe alembicand dis-til anew, and continue the operation inthesarneuntil nornoreoil passes over..rrhe essentialoil ofmustardisobtained bythesameprocess.ProcessbyImpregnation of FattyBodies.Thereareflowerswith fugitive odors, such asjonquil, violet, jasmine, &c., the perfurne of whichisverydifficult tofix. Theordinarydistillationgives a weak product; that with alcohol is not satisfactory. They can be fixed only bycombiningthemwith a fixed oil, and distillingESSENTIAL OILS. 97the latter withalcohol. In treati ngof the extJ'actsof flowers weshallenter moreinto the details ofthisprocess.ProcessbyExpresson.Fruitswithodoriferous rinds, and particularly. theorange, cedrat, bergamot, lemon, &c., may bepressed to extract their essential oils. Bythisprocess theoilsarefiner and sweeter. The me-thod ofoperatingisthe following: Remove theouter skinof therindsby grating, without touch-ing thewhite, andput then1into a porcelain jar.Whenall thezestes are ready, put themina bagofcommoncloth, and placethemunder a press,whichisturnedslowly, soasto produceamode-rate pressurewithout tearing the bag. The oilthusobtained is poured into ajar with alittlealum, to help the precipitation of the mucilage,andthenext daytheoil is decanted. Someper-fumers, instead of separating thezestes, scrapetherind, but this process takes someof the white,andgives anoilof inferior quality. Others cutthe rindinto pieces and throwtheln into tepidwater, inwhichthey are left a fewhours; theythen introduce the mass into an alembic, anddistil over awaterbath.There is a method of distilling without thealembic, practised in some Eastern countries,whichweshall nowdescribe.1. Alarge vessel, havingthe form of athimble,998 ESSENTIAL OILS.which is half filled with roses, or some otherflowers.2. Asmallervessel, witha largemoutb, placedon astandinside ofthelarger one. The top ofthissmall vessel rises about one inch above theflowers.3. Ahollow cone of sheet iron, the base ofwhich hermetically closes theopening of the largevessel, and the point of which descends just abovethemiddle of the smaller. r ~ P h e sheet-iron coneisfiHedwith. pieces ofice. The apparatus, thusarranged, isput in a sandbath and heated; theoilcrystallizes, is cooled by the ice inthe cone,condenses, andfallsin drops intothe smallves-s.el. The operation completed, the small vesselis sunken, andtheoilseparatedfromthewater.The qualityand quantityof the oils obtained.dependon manycontingencies-on the nlode ofoperation, onthe state of maturityor conserva-tionof theplants, climate, thelocalities they cornefrom. Vegetablesgrowingin arid, mountainoussoils, havethepreference. It is in the morningthatflowersshouldbegathered andimmediatelydistilled; plants \v hich are left gatheredseveraldaysgrow warm, beginto ferment, andtheessen-tialoil theyyieldisofapoor quality.Essential oilsmustbekept in bottleshermeti-cally sealed, covered with black or blue paper,andplaced in a cool place. Blue glass bottles OILS. 99Will bethebest topreserve essentia.l oilsfromtheactionof light andtheoxygenof theair.Thefollowingtablegivestheamount ofessen-tial oil obtainedfrom100poundsof material.sNames. 100 1bR. gave Names. 100 1b8. gaveeS:-iential oils essential oils-