6.5L Oil Cooler Installation Instructions

Note It is necessary that an oil and filter change is performed when the oil cooler is installed. Be careful not to contaminate the new oil lines or open ports with dirt during installation. It is recommended that both negative battery terminals be disconnected while installing. Parts List A 1 – Oil cooler B 2 – Oil Cooler Line; steel braid hose assemblies, swivel -10 JIC ends C 2 – 1/2” NPT x -10 JIC male 90º elbows D 2 – 3/8” NPT x -10 JIC male 90º elbows E 2 – 1/2” NPT x -10 JIC male 45º elbows F 1 – 1/2” NPT male x 1/2”NP female swivel 90º elbow G 4 – M6 x 1.00 x 20 mm bolts H 4 – M6 clip-nuts I 1 – Top Oil Cooler Bracket J 1 – Bottom Oil Cooler Bracket K 1 – 6.5L Oil Filter Adapter Seal Kit (1 medium and 1 small O-ring) L 1 – 6.2L Oil Filter Adapter Seal Kit (2 medium O-rings and 1 copper Gasket) M 1 – Oil Filter Adapter O-Ring (1 large O-ring common to both types of Oil Filter

Adapter) N 1 – Motor Mount Oil Cooler Line Retainer Bracket O 1 – Motor Mount Oil Cooler Line Retainer Clip P 1 – Motor Mount Oil Cooler Line Retainer Bracket Bolt with Lock-Washer Q 4 – Heavy duty zip-ties Tools Required

7mm socket 7/8” wrench 1 3/8” socket Side-clips Thread sealant 10mm socket 1” wrench Pick Phillips screwdriver Oil drain bucket 3/4” wrench 1 1/4” wrench Needle-nose pliers Air compressor Torx T-20 Oil filter wrench Assembly lube Torque Wrench

This kit is designed to fit on all 6.5L diesel trucks from 1993 to 1999. The installation procedure is remarkably similar throughout the model years, but there are some variations. Some of these variations are obvious, such as between 2WD and 4WD models. 4WD models require a more complicated installation due to the Front Drive Shaft and the oil filter adapter. The oil filter adapter will have to be removed in order to thread in the new, leak-proof, fittings and the drive shaft may have to be removed depending on your available tools and patience (the driveshaft can really get in the way!). Other variations are not so obvious, such as the different block castings, exhaust manifolds, and grills, not to mention aftermarket truck modifications and engine swaps that are so common nowadays. Please use common sense during the installation. It is not possible to provide an installation instruction for your truck in particular, but we have done our best to cover all of the bases. Some of the variations encountered are discussed below. Early 6.5L engine used the same block casting as the 6.2L diesel and, as such, retains some 6.2L components such as the oil filter adapter and oil filter adapter bolt. The oil filter adapter assembly has a number of seals and O-rings that are different between the two variations. The seal and O-rings for both variations are provided in the kit. These must be replaced during installation. The exhaust manifold for the early 6.5L runs closer to the block than the later model which makes for a much tighter work area when threading in the new fittings. As well, the early block casting had the threaded oil ports on a small (1”) boss. This further reduces the clearance between the exhaust manifold and the threaded port. To make matters worse, the flange between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust crossover pipe is positioned in such a way that the threaded fitting will want to clip it on the first rotation. The only option at this point is to loosen the exhaust manifold and exhaust crossover pipe, or grind away a few tenths of an inch from the flange. We choose to grind away a few tenths of an inch for simplicity’s sake. It is important to not get too carried away doing this. The last thing anyone wants is to create another problem. An early 6.5L 4WD is the most complicated install so this is the one that is covered on the installation video provided in this kit. The stock oil cooler lines are either routed along the block and clipped at the motor mount or routed back around the exhaust manifold and along the fender well. If your stock lines are of the latter type, then you will probably have the early block style and you will have the problems described in the previous paragraph. The stock line sizes changed from year to year between 1/2” and 5/8”. Regardless of which layout you have originally, the new, 5/8” lines will run along the block and be clipped to the motor mount (bracket and clip are included; odds are you won’t be able to reuse your old ones because they are a different style). The threaded port in the block can be either 3/8” NPT or 1/2” NPT. Appropriate adapters are provided for both situations. There are two grill types which use different fastening methods. The important thing is to make sure you have all of the fasteners removed and that you remove the grill gently. Finally, there will be some pieces in the kit that you won’t use. Please recycle, or re-use them.

Installation Instructions

Figure 1a 1a Oil Cooler Assembly. Attach Bottom Oil Cooler Bracket (Part J) to the Oil Cooler (Part A) as shown using two clip nuts and two bolts (Parts G and H). Tighten.

Figure 1b 1b Viewing the flanged side of the oil cooler (Part A), install the 1/2" NPT male x 1/2" NPT female swivel elbow (Part F) in the right side cooler port (use thread sealant). Tighten until elbow points inwards towards center of cooler. Thread 1/2" NPT male x -10 JIC male 45 elbow fitting (Part E) into female swivel end of Part F. Do not use thread sealant on swivel NP threads. Tighten until elbow points in the direction shown. Thread second Part E into left side cooler port (use thread sealant) tighten until elbow points in the direction shown.

Figure 1c 1c Attach one hose end from each Oil Cooler Line to the Oil Cooler and tighten. Note that the Oil Cooler Lines are the same length and that no thread sealant should be used. Leave the cap-plug on the unused end of each hose as this will prevent the line from being contaminated during installation.

2 Remove brush bumper or grill guard if equipped

3 Remove front signal lights.

4 Remove bulbs from front lights (squeeze, 1/4 turn, pull).

5 Reach in and remove side marker lights (1/4 turn).

Figure 6 6 The grill is held on by either screws alone or screws and clips, depending on the year. Remove the screws as shown as shown in the image.

Figure 7 7 If your grill has clips, remove the grill by releasing 3 squeeze clips from lower grill molding. Two are located behind the turn signals and are released by squeezing the retaining clips. The third is released by reaching behind the center of the grill from above using a long screwdriver. Press down on the release tab using the screwdriver. The grill should remove easily, do not force it. If your grill has screws holding it in place, these can be found behind the turn signals and in the center of the grill near the lower grill molding.

8 If your grill is an all-screw type (as discussed above), then the lower grill molding will come out with the grill. If it is a clip type, the lower grill molding will have to be removed separately by removing five screws.

Figure 9 9 Remove the plastic push-out from the front air dam.

Figure 10 10 Remove the front skid shield by removing four bolts.

Figure 11 11 From underneath the truck, remove the bolts from the air dam. Pull air dam back and remove the two bolts from old bottom cooler bracket.

Figure 12 12 If equipped, remove the motor mount oil line bracket.

Figure 13 13 Detach oil lines from old oil cooler (3/4" wrench).

14 Pull oil lines down through air dam, drain oil into bucket.

Figure 15 15 Remove two bolts from old top cooler bracket and pull cooler and brackets out.

16 Clean debris from air conditioning condenser directly behind cooler, being careful not to damage the condenser (use compressed air or low pressure water only). Do not inject water into the old oil lines.

17 Clean dirt and debris from around the oil filter, oil filter adapter (4WD only), and old oil line block fittings. Debris may impede the installation of the new block fittings or contaminate the engine block.

18 Drain the engine oil, and remove the oil filter.

Figure 19 19 Remove the Oil Filter Adapter (4WD only) using 1 3/8" socket.

Figure 20 20 Remove retainer clips from old oil cooler line block fittings with a pick and pliers. If the clips will not release, thread fittings directly out of block using either 1" or 1 1/4" wrench depending on which fittings are present. (Note: if you are unable to access the fittings, you may have to detach the front driveshaft or possibly exhaust crossover). Pry old oil lines perpendicularly from the fittings.

Figure 21 21 Remove old oil cooler line block fittings.

22 Pull old oil cooler lines out. For most 6.5's this will be towards the front of the truck through the skid plate hole. If your lines follow a path along the fender well, then there will be another bolt to remove on a retaining bracket (not shown).

Figure 23 23 Using thread sealant, install the new block fittings beginning with the front one. Tighten fittings until they point toward the grill and are angled upward approximately 10 degrees. Note: The block may have 3/8" or 1/2" NPT threads; use only the appropriate NPT - JIC 90º elbow from the kit (Part C or D). The extra fittings will not be used.

Figure 24 24 Install new Top Oil Cooler Bracket (Part I) using original two screws, leave bolts loose for further adjustment. Place two Clip Nuts (Part H) on bracket holes as shown.

25 Place new Oil Cooler in position of old oil cooler (in front of air conditioning condenser) feeding lines through pop-out location in air dam. Ensure that cap-plugs are still in place on free ends of hoses.

Figure 26 26 Attach new Oil Cooler Assembly to the new top oil cooler bracket using two bolts from the kit (Part G). Leave loose for further adjustment.

Figure 27 27 Pull back air dam and reinstall the two bolts for the bottom bracket (tighten).

Figure 28 28 Ensure that the cooler does not rub against the air conditioning condenser. A clearance of 1/8" to 1/4" is sufficient. Rubbing on the AC condenser may cause it to fail. Bend and pry new oil cooler brackets if necessary to ensure that the cooler does not rub on the AC condenser. Tighten the four bolts on the top bracket.

Figure 29a Figure 29b

29 Reinstall the bolts on the air dam and install Motor Mount Oil Cooler Line Retainer Bracket (Part N) using the Motor Mount Oil Cooler Line Retainer Bracket Bolt and Lock Washer (Part P).

Figure 30a Figure 30b

30 Feed new Oil Cooler Lines (Part B) through the skid plate hole, below the motor mount, and along the side of the block to the position of the new fittings.

31 Install new Oil Cooler Lines on the elbow fittings beginning with the front one. Ensure that the lines and fittings are not contaminated at this point. Thread sealant should not be used on the JIC fittings.

Figure 32 32 Secure Oil Cooler Lines to the Motor Mount Oil Cooler Line Retainer Bracket using the Motor Mount Oil Cooler Line Retainer Clip (Part O). Zip-tie (Part Q) Oil Cooler Lines to the dipstick tube near the block. Zip tie lines to the tubular cross member support shown to keep lines away from the balancer and fan. Trim zip ties with side-cutter. Ensure lines are not in the path of or rubbing against moving parts.

33 Reinstall oil drain plug.

Figure 34a Figure 34b

34 For 4WD trucks, replace the O-rings on the oil filter adapter using the supplied seal kit (Part K). For 6.2L style Oil Filter Adapters, use the copper gasket and two medium size O-rings (Figure 34a). For the 6.5L style Oil Filter Adapter, use the medium and small size O-rings (Figure 34b). Both styles of Oil Filter Adapter use the large O-ring provided in the kit. Use assembly lube, or oil on all seals.

35 Install Oil Filter Adapter (4WD's only) using Oil Filter Adapter Bolt and torque to 60 lbft. Install new Oil Filter.

Figure 36 36 Adjust angle of elbow fittings to ensure that there is adequate clearance between Oil Filter Adapter, Oil Filter, and Oil Cooler Lines. The oil lines should not rest on the oil filter adapter. Ensure that oil lines are not in a position to be damaged should the engine be started.

37 Reattach front drive shaft, exhaust cross-over and negative battery terminals if disassembled earlier.

38 Fill engine with new oil (Note: you will require extra oil to account for the larger oil cooler volume). Start engine and check for leaks.

40 Reinstall air dam bolts and reinstall skid plate.

41 Reinstall lower grill molding, grill, and lights

42 Reinstall brush bumper or grill guard (if originally equipped).

Kit Contents

Part A

Part B

Part C

Part D

Part E

Part F

Part G and Part H

Part J and Part I

Part K

Part L

Part M

Part O and Part N

Part P

Part Q

Installation Figures

A

H

J

Figure 1a

E

F

Figure 1b

B G

Thread Sealant

No Thread Sealant

Figure 1c

Figure 6

Figure 7

Figure 9a

Figure 9b

Figure 9c

Figure 10

Figure 11

Figure 12

Figure 13

Figure 15

Figure 19

Figure 20

Figure 21

Figure 23

Figure 24

Figure 26

Figure 27

Figure 28

Figure 29a

Figure 29b

Figure 30a

Figure 30b

Figure 32

Oil Filter Adapter

Part M

Part L

Figure 34a

Figure 34b

Figure 36