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2.1 FASHION ORIGINS 2.2 FASHION COMPONENTS 2.3 DESIGN AND COLOR 2.4 TEXTILES AND CONSTRUCTION CHAPTER 2 2 THE BASICS OF FASHION THE BASICS OF FASHION LESSONS 64023_FM_Ch02.qxd 9/27/02 1:10 PM Page 26

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2.1 FASHIONORIGINS

2.2 FASHIONCOMPONENTS

2.3 DESIGN ANDCOLOR

2.4 TEXTILES ANDCONSTRUCTION

CHAPTER 22THEBASICS OFFASHION

THEBASICS OFFASHIONLESSONS

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WINNINGSTRATEGIESTHAI SILK COMPANY

At the end of World War II, U.S. intelligence agentJim Thompson moved to Thailand because he

was fascinated with the country and its beautifulhandwoven silk textiles. In 1946, hand-weaving silkwas a dying home-based industry. The demand forsilk fabric was very low throughout the world, havingbeen replaced by less expensive, machine-made fab-rics. Thompson thought handwoven silk was so strik-ing that he took samples to New York to find buyersfor this luxurious fabric and, as a result, founded theThai Silk Company Limited. He is credited with savingthe silk industry in Thailand, which now employs morethan 20,000 people.

Known worldwide for woven silks, Thai Silk Com-pany has fabric showrooms in New York, Atlanta, andLondon. There are also 35 Jim Thompson specialtystores that sell silk neckties and scarves. The com-pany has expanded its brand to home furnishings andwomen’s sportswear in the Jim Thompson stores ofTokyo and Paris.

The marketing of the expanded brand focused onthe mystique of Jim Thompson, emphasizing his se-cretive former job and mysterious disappearance.Thompson first went to Thailand during World War IIas an agent of the U.S. Office of Strategic Services,which is now the Central Intelligence Agency. In1967, Thompson went on vacation in Malaysia andmysteriously disappeared in the jungle. No clues re-lated to his disappearance have ever been found.

THINK CRITICALLY1. How would the popularity of Asian styles impact the

type of promotion used by the Jim Thompson stores?2. How could the Jim Thompson brand capitalize on its

fine reputation for silk fabric to help promote its newlines of women’s clothing and home furnishings?

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CHAPTER OVERVIEWChapter 2 introduces the basics offashion design and provides abrief overview of the history offashion.

Lesson 2.1Fashion OriginsThis lesson explains the relation-ship of fashion history to today’sfashions and the impact of culturaldiversity.

Lesson 2.2Fashion ComponentsThis lesson describes the majorenvironmental influences on fash-ion demand and three segmentsof softlines.

Lesson 2.3Design and ColorThe principles and elements ofdesign and importance of colorare explained in this lesson.

Lesson 2.4Textiles and ConstructionThis lesson differentiates amongdifferent types of natural and man-made fibers and describes the as-pects of quality garmentconstruction.

TEACHING RESOURCESVideo, Ch. 2Instructor’s Resource CD, Ch. 2ExamView® Pro CD, Ch. 2

WINNING STRATEGIESDescribes the impact of one com-pany on the silk industry in a na-tion and the historical importanceof silk. Ask students what theythink about silk as a fabric towear.

Think Critically1. Answers will vary. Possible an-swers include that the promotionwould emphasize the popularity byshowing garments in an Asianstyle.

2. It could contact current cus-tomers and include informationabout the brand’s long-held goodreputation.

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THE BASICS OF FASHION

CHAPTERCHAPTER

22Lesson 2.1

FASHION ORIGINS

WHERE IT BEGANFrance was considered the center of fashion for almost 400 years,

from the 1600s into the 1900s. Especially in Paris, a number of fac-tors came together to focus the world on French fashions. Local and

Understand the re-lationship of fashionhistory to today’sfashions.

Identify the impactof cultural diversityon fashion.

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In 1868, French fashion designers formed a trade associationto organize the showing of each season’s new collections inParis and to promote the French fashion industry. The organi-

zation is called the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisi-enne. Additionally, the organization negotiates with labor,promotes education for future fashion careers, and enforcescopyright laws.

To belong to the exclusive organization, all designs must becreated in the member firm. A design firm must have at leastone atelier (a workroom), at least 15 technical staff employees,and at least 60 garments showing in a collection twice a year.

In 1973, two branches were added to the association. Onebranch is for fashion firms that design women’s prêt-à-porter(pret-a-por-tay), and the other is for fashion firms that designmen’s prêt-à-porter. Prêt-à-porter means ready-to-wear garmentsas opposed to original, made-to-measure garments. The twonewest branches are currently the most financially successfulof the organization.

Work with a group. Discuss why it would be beneficial for afashion design firm to join with other firms in a trade organiza-tion. Make a list of possible benefits.

The Latest Style

SCHEDULEBlock 45 minutesRegular 1 class period

FOCUSAsk students to discuss whatcities in Europe they associatewith fashion.

THE LATEST STYLEThe Chambre had 98 couturierswho were members in 1917, 34couture houses by 1960, andfewer than 20 couture membersby 2000.

Answers for The Latest StyleCooperative LearningAnswers will vary. Possible an-swers include to organize thefashion shows for the convenienceof the customers.

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international patrons, artists, skilled workers, a tremendous fabric andnotions industry, and the right economic conditions fused to make Paristhe preeminent fashion center.

FRENCH FLAVORIn the 1600s, French royalty and wealthy landowners employed theirown dressmakers and tailors. Wealth was concentrated within a smallgroup who had an endless desire for lavish fashions. The garmentswere shown off at balls, galas, receptions, and other social events, cre-ating a climate where fashion was a major cultural element.

At the time, there was no middle class. People were either among thewealthy, or they were poor peasants. The peasantswore homemade and cast-off garments. If a peasantfamily owned a good set of clothes, it was handed downfrom generation to generation and became the folkdress of the peasant culture.

The excesses of the courts and the wealthy partiallyled to the French Revolution that began in 1789. Afterthe Revolution, the importance and influence of royaltydiminished, class distinctions blurred, and haute couture(hoat koo-tour) design firms grew. Haute couture meanshigh-fashion, individually designed, original, handmadegarments. A couturier (koo-tour-i-er) is the main creatorand designer for a haute couture firm. The individual de-signers began creating designs for sale to the generalpublic, rather than working for only one family.

COUTURIERSDuring the growth of Paris as the fashion center, the de-signers benefited from close proximity to other artistsand their patrons. The couture houses soon gainedprominence and could demand new, exciting fabrics foreach season’s collection of fashions, thus keeping thetextile industry healthy.

The idea of the couturier as the master of fashion firstled to the dominance and then to the decline of thehaute couture fashion firms. In 1868, when the couturi-ers joined together to form the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisi-enne, recognition of Paris as the fashion center was increasing. TheChambre Syndicale empowered the designer, rather than the customer,to decide what was fashion. This eventually worked against the hautecouture fashion firms since good business practice requires that thecustomer be pleased.

SUPPORTING ROLESFor a couture house to exist, a vast pool of skilled labor was required toback up the couturier. Assistant designers, production managers, pat-tern makers, tailors, and fitters were also needed to produce a collec-tion. To provide the training needed for all of the positions, schools wereestablished to train young people and prepare them to step into thefashion business.

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2.1 FASHION ORIGINS

During the late 1700s, the first clothing de-signed specifically for boys was called theskeleton suit. The outfit had long, high-waisted trousers, generally buttoned ontoa very short jacket. Charles Dickens saidthe suits “gave a boy’s legs the appear-ance of being hooked on just under hisarmpits.” The skeleton suit is significantbecause it was designed for a child andwas not a copy of an adult garment. It re-mained popular for half a century.

THINK CRITICALLYWhat special characteristics would allow agarment to remain in style for 50 years?

TEACHIn the nineteenth century, the Em-press Eugénie hired designerCharles Frederick Worth, consid-ered the father of present-dayfashion. He was the first designerto create garments that were hisown ideas and not for an individ-ual customer and the first to showhis garments on live models.

Fashion FlashbackIn the late eighteenth century,boys wore long pants and menwore knee breeches. The pantsmay have been called skeletonsuits because the boys who worethem were so slender.

Think CriticallyAnswers will vary. The functionaland comfortable styles that lookgood on a wide range of peopleare styles that become classicsand remain popular.

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GLOBALIZATIONIndustrialization, technology, globalization, and the spreadof democracy broadened the demand for fashion. Conse-quently, the fashion industry grew to meet the demand.Many social, political, and industrial factors helped spreadthe fashion center from Paris to multiple centers through-out the world. Democratization of fashion, making it avail-able to the masses, quickly spread as technology

improved production processes, communication, and transportation.Well-made, fashionable garments quickly became available in manyparts of the world.

The growth of a middleclass with income to pur-chase fashions, not justbasic clothing, fueled thegrowth of the fashion in-dustry. As the customerbase broadened, the fash-ion center spread becausethe control shifted fromthe designer to the cus-tomer. Paris now sharesthe fashion spotlight withother cities, such as Milanand New York.

MASS PRODUCTIONHaute couture designer gowns seen on celebrities at the AcademyAwards on Sunday evening are copied and advertised by Wednesday.The copies, called knockoffs, are available for purchase at reasonableprices within two weeks. Haute couture houses fight back by copying theirown garments in less expensive versions and selling them to retailers.

The high cost of creating original garments limits the pool of cus-tomers. Expensive, custom, made-to-measure originals have given wayto mass-produced, reasonably priced, ready-to-wear garments that havebroadened fashion from an art to a major business industry. The hautecouture fashion design houses have turned to mass-produced, ready-to-wear garments in order to survive.

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2 THE BASICS OF FASHION

PRODUCT/SERVICE

MANAGEMENT

Why was Paris the center of fashion?

TEACHSchools to train potential employ-ees in the fashion industry clusteraround the main industry centers.

People change the styles theywear to reflect their social status,their gender, and new technology.Ask students what they think ismeant by “democratization offashion.”

The growth of the middle classtook place mostly in the UnitedStates, with an economic systemand education that encouraged itsgrowth.

Ongoing AssessmentUse the Try It On as an opportu-nity to conduct ongoing assess-ment of student comprehension ofthe lesson material.

Paris was the center of fashion due to political and economic events as well as indi-

viduals with income and an interest in fashion.

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THE ELEMENTS OF CULTUREThere is an evolution of fashion trends that flows among Europe, Asia,

and the United States. The three cultures admire each other’s fash-ions and cyclically adopt them. The elements of a culture that influencefashions include the language, religion, art, customs, values, and sym-bols, as well as what other people in the culture are wearing. American-ization takes place when the characteristics of a cultural elementattributed to the United States are transferred to other countries. The elements of other cultures are also very visible in the United States.

RESTRICTING INFLUENCESEven today, many cultures have self-imposed rules that regulate howmen and women can dress. Modest dress is associated with many reli-gions and certainly impacts fashions of cultures where the majority ofpeople are associated with a particular religion. While the fashion maga-zine Bibi shows South Asian women dressed with bare midriffs, someSouth Asian women cover themselves from head to toe, including theirfaces. Muslim women follow dress codes that can be very restrictiveand include complete coverage in public with a head-to-toe garmentcalled a burka. Social stigma keeps many Muslim women from wearingswimsuits in public, while others dress with few restrictions.

THE MULTICULTURAL CONSUMERThe American population as a whole grew about 13 per-cent from 1990 to 2000, according to the U.S. Census, butthe minority population grew about 34 percent. Minorityshoppers are fashion buyers and are growing in impor-tance to retailers. Retail sales data shows that minority

shoppers pay full price for items 37 percent of the time, while Cau-casian shoppers do so only 25 percent of the time.

Smart fashion marketers will take the time needed to understand andserve all customers. Understanding diverse cultures can help the fash-ion marketer spot trends that will lead to sales.

Experiencing the diversity of cultures is an exciting adventure. Gain-ing an understanding of cultures beyond your own can open doors infashion marketing, from providing insight to what may be the next trendto understanding diverse customers and providing for them.

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2.1 FASHION ORIGINS

Bibi is a fashion maga-zine for South Asians.South Asia is made upof India, Bangladesh,Pakistan, Sri Lanka,

Nepal, Maldives,Bhutan, and other

nearby countries. Bibishows traditional South

Asian clothing com-bined with Western ap-parel. Traditional SouthAsian shirts called cho-lis are snug and leavemidriffs bare. Cholis

look great with Western-style jeans.

SELLING

Why do historical customs of a culture influence today’sfashions?

TEACHIn the United States, women fromother cultures may find they havemany choices to make about howthey dress. When they are thesecond generation living in theUnited States, they have a uniquehybrid culture that may mix stan-dard Western dress for some oc-casions with aspects of traditionaldress from their culture.

Time OutBibi has features on bridal wearfor women who want to have atraditional South Asian wedding inthe United States.

Ongoing AssessmentUse the Try It On as an opportu-nity to conduct ongoing assess-ment of student comprehension ofthe lesson material.Because of the social pressure and the comfort level of people who have grown up

with the influence.

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2 THE BASICS OF FASHION

UNDERSTAND MARKETING CONCEPTSCircle the best answer for each of the following questions.

1. Paris was the center of fashion becausea. French royalty was very interested in fashion.b. a wealthy class of people wanted fashions.c. fabric and talented people were available.d. of all of the above.

2. Some of the elements of culture area. couture, burkas, and skeleton suits.b. fashion, religion, and language.c. peasants, royalty, and upper class.d. textiles, seamstresses, and tailors.

THINK CRITICALLYAnswer the following questions as completely as possible. If neces-sary, use a separate sheet of paper.

3. Research Look up the origin of pants. When did men startwearing pants? Why are they called pants? Write a paragraphabout the history and evolution of pants.

4. Economics Why do people in fashion marketing need to under-stand cultural diversity? What impact might the cultural diversityof customers have on a business?

TEACHING STRATEGIESAuditory, Visual, KinestheticLearnersAsk students to take turns readingthe material aloud, followed byother students summarizing thecontent and different students writ-ing the main points on the board.

TEACHING STRATEGIESTactile LearnersAsk community members to bringor loan examples of garments as-sociated with a culture.

ASSESSReteachIn pairs, have students tell eachother briefly about the history offashion and how it impacts fashiontoday.

EnrichAsk each student to conduct asurvey of ten students not in theclass. Have the students seenclothing that was representative ofanother culture? What did theylike or dislike about the clothing?Ask the students to draw a con-clusion from the information theygather. How could the clothing beadapted to appeal to more peo-ple?

CLOSEAsk a recent immigrant from an-other country to talk to the classabout fashions in his or her homecountry. What is different nowabout fashions from when he orshe was a child?

d

b

Answers will vary. Suggest students do a search for trousers at

www.google.com or look at www.apparelsearch.com/glossary.htm. Both men

and women throughout history have at times worn pants for warmth and com-

fort, but men began the current phase in the 1700s. Pants, a contraction of

the word pantaloons, are named for an Italian comedy character Pantalone

who wore a combination of trousers and stockings.

Fashion marketing targets people of widely varying cultures. Minorities are an

important customer base and need to be considered.

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THE BASICS OF FASHION

FASHION COMPONENTS

THE SUM OF THE PARTSFashion is at once a big business, an

art form, and the prevailing style.Fashion combines all of the compo-nents—design, color, fabric, construc-tion, function, and history—into a style.Style is a particular look in fashion thatsets it apart. Environmental factorsheavily influence the demand for whatis considered style at any given time.Social, technological, economic, regula-tory, and competitive forces are exter-nal environmental factors that influencethe demand for a style. Demand refersto the quantity of a particular fashionitem that the public is willing and ableto buy.

DEMAND FACTORSPeople will buy styles worn by thosethey admire, and fashion marketers are

CHAPTERCHAPTER

22Lesson 2.2

Identify the majorenvironmental influ-ences on fashiondemand.

Define softlines,and describe thethree segments.

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When teens complained to department stores that promdresses were too provocative, the stores listened. Whenstores offered only plunging necklines, thigh-high-slit

skirts, and bikini-style tops with low-riding skirts, the teensmade it clear they wanted more glamorous gowns with a classystyle. Wanting to look trendy but not revealing, the teens com-plained and found plenty of support from other teens. Designersand retailers reacted by providing a wider selection of young,chic dresses that covered the wearer.

When fashion trends swing too far one way, this generally in-dicates it is time for the pendulum to swing back. Retailers anddesigners must stay in touch with their customers to anticipatefashion trends.

Work with a group. Discuss how stores can stay ahead ofteen trends. Suggest ways that a store can obtain feedbackfrom teens.

The Latest Style

SCHEDULEBlock 45 minutesRegular 1 class period

FOCUSAsk students if they think majorpolitical, economic, or socialevents impact fashion. Ask themto provide an example.

THE LATEST STYLEWould students be surprised if adepartment store listened to teensabout what they wanted to seecarried in the store? Why or whynot?

Answers for The Latest StyleCooperative LearningAnswers will vary, but should in-clude “Ask them.”

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in competition to dress celebrities. Celebrities, including athletes, ac-tresses, and political figures, project an image that influences what thepublic wears.

When First Lady Laura Bush selected clothing for the presidential in-auguration, the fashion world gave little notice. Mrs. Bush’s style hasbeen described as rock-solid and middle of the road. She is consideredmodest and not a trend setter.

Contrast Mrs. Bush with former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. Dur-ing the 1960s, she portrayed an image that is still used today as an ex-ample of elegance in personal style. Mrs. Kennedy had an impeccablesense of style for any occasion and perfectly planned her appearancewith grace and dignity. The “Jackie look” is legend.

In addition to trend setters who work with compet-ing designers, the demand for a style is heavily influ-enced by technology. People around the world seestyles on TV or in movies and can buy them overthe Internet.

The influence of economic conditions can alsoheat or chill the demand for a style. If people arebarely able to meet their basic needs of food andshelter, style becomes less of a factor in makingclothing selections. The price of a particular style al-ways affects its demand. Owning an original garmentfrom a haute couture firm may be something peoplewould really enjoy, but the astronomical price keepsthe demand low.

Social factors, including culture, values, and be-liefs, also influence the styles a person wears. In the1920s, women in Western countries started shorten-ing their skirts and created a huge demand for thenew, shorter style, while women in conservative cul-tures and religions continued covering their legs withlong garments.

The gender and age of wearers also determinewhich fashions they are likely to buy. Men’s,women’s, and children’s fashions are impacted byeach other or cause reverse reactions as one agegroup wants to be different from the other.

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2 THE BASICS OF FASHION

Dress code wars among teens, parents, andschools occur in a cyclical nature. As fashionschange, the battles come and go. Issues suchas skirt length, bare midriffs, exposed under-wear, head coverings, and low-riding pantstend to be the focus issues.

School rules and fashion trends frequentlyconflict. Parents also join in the battle whenthey feel teens are being too racy for the occa-sion. JCPenney pulled a back-to-school TV adafter parents complained. The ad depicted amother helping her daughter pull down herjeans to show more midriff.

THINK CRITICALLY1. Do you think schools need dress codes?Why or why not?2. Who should set the rules for appropriateschool attire?

What is meant by style?

Ongoing AssessmentUse the Try It On as an opportu-nity to conduct ongoing assess-ment of student comprehension ofthe lesson material.

Think Critically1. Answers will vary. If all studentsdressed in a standard acceptableto the community as a whole,there would be no need for adress code.

2. Answers will vary, but shouldinclude an elected student groupmaking recommendations to thegoverning board.

Fashion Do’s and Don’tsIs the dress code at your school aproblem for students? What spe-cific changes would students liketo see made? Would thosechanges be supported by the gen-eral community?

Style is a particular look in fashion that sets it apart.

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TYPE CASTINGC lothing, shoes, and accessories are referred to as soft-

lines or soft goods. Softlines are those items generallymade of fabrics or leather and include women’s wear,men’s wear, and children’s wear. These three segmentssometimes merge when garments are appropriate for allthree categories. For example, women, men, or childrencould wear a T-shirt, with size being the only distinction.

WOMEN’S WEARWomen’s wear is considered the leading edge of fashion and is themost financially competitive of the three softline segments. Women’swear has the most dramatic swings in styles, colors, and fabrics, makingit an even more challenging business. The fashion industry loves tomake women look good and is in a constant buzz to stay ahead of whatits customer wants. The demand for fashionable clothing is perpetuatedby the extensive availability of garments and widespread informationabout who is wearing what.

What women wear has always reflected their social and political sta-tus. Women who live in socially or politically restrictive environmentsdress accordingly in restrictive clothing, either by choice or by force.Women who have the means generally like to change with fashion cy-cles. Even in very restricted situations, women manage to maintainsome sense of fashion.

In addition to the functional categories such as sportswear andeveningwear, women’s wear is broken down into size ranges. Misses isa regular woman’s size in even numbers, from 2 to 14. Petite is sizedfor women who are less than 5’4” tall. Junior sizes are odd numbersfrom 1 to 13 for a younger figure, and women’s sizes are the plus sizesfor larger women.

MEN’S WEARPrior to the 1800s, men’s fashionswere as elaborate and decorativeas women’s fashions. Since theearly 1800s, men’s wear has nothad the dramatic swings in stylesand color associated with women’swear. The economic rise of themiddle class in Western countriesduring the 1800s was due to thegrowth of democracies and the In-dustrial Revolution. The economicchange led men to establish amiddle-class look that has beenslow to change. Men’s wear be-comes more casual in response toa good economy and more formalwhen the economy and job market

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2.2 FASHION COMPONENTS

According to Women’sWear Daily, African-American females

spent about $4 billionon apparel and another$3.6 billion on acces-sories in 2000. Since

African-Americanwomen are represented

in all income levels,marketing to their cul-ture is one way to tar-

get them as customers.

PRODUCT/SERVICE

MANAGEMENT

TEACHAsk students to name other gar-ments like T-shirts that are wornby men, women, and children.

Women’s sizes are not standard-ized to measurements like men’sclothing. This is a problem for fitand one reason for a high returnrate on women’s clothing.

Middle-class men who go to workeveryday have established abenchmark for acceptable dress.They stay within the norms of so-ciety to maintain their position andrespect.

Time OutAsk students if it is possible touse the same techniques to mar-ket to all women in an ethnicgroup, no matter what their in-come, education level, age, or in-terests.

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become more demanding. Although it does reflect the changes in theeconomy, men’s wear remains slower to change in style.

Men’s clothing in Western countries has all of the functional cate-gories of women’s wear, including sportswear, activewear, and evening-wear. Accessories for men’s wear, including belts, shoes, and ties, are ahigh-volume fashion business that can enhance sales for the manufac-turer and retailer and appropriately finish a well-groomed look.

Men’s wear in the United States is sized by chest, waist, and inseammeasurements, with jacket length designated as regular, long, or short.Dress shirts are sized by collar and sleeve measurements. Sportswearshirts come in small, medium, and large.

Trend setters in men’s wear include celebrities and many of the U.S.presidents. President John Kennedy is often credited with killing themen’s hat industry by not wearing a hat at his 1961 inauguration. In the2000s, George W. Bush gave a boost to activewear by frequently wear-ing comfortable outdoor clothing. Many male actors, musicians, and pro-fessional athletes have their own line of clothing.

CHILDREN’S WEARThe children’s wear market isheavily influenced by what adultsare wearing and offers trendy,durable, and comfortable gar-ments. Children’s wear has twocustomers, the child and the par-ent. Both customers must bepleased for the line to be a suc-cess.

At times during the history ofchildren’s fashions, children wereseen as mini-adults and weresubjected to confining, preten-tious clothing that was designedto reflect the social status of theparents. When adult clothing issimple and casual, children’sclothing repeats the theme andbecomes more relaxed.

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2 THE BASICS OF FASHION

Why does current men’s wear change more slowly thanwomen’s wear?

TEACHMen’s wear used for dress orbusiness is sized based on mea-surements, which makes it easierto fit. Sportswear or active wearthat requires a less precise fit usu-ally comes in small, medium,large, and larger sizes. Manystores offer free alteration formen’s wear, but charge to alterwomen’s wear.

Men’s style leaders are generallythose seen as being in power,such as business or political lead-ers, rather than entertainers.

The reflection of children’s dresson the status of the parents helpsbrand-name products sell. Chil-dren become aware of brandnames through advertising, espe-cially on TV. The popularity ofbrand names comes and goes.When brands are not a focus,then children are satisfied withmore durable, functional clothing,rather than a garment with an ad-vertised name.

Ongoing AssessmentUse the Try It On as an opportu-nity to conduct ongoing assess-ment of student comprehension ofthe lesson material.

Because the men’s fashion leaders—powerful men—have not adopted dramatic

change. There has been no significant functional, political, or social reason to make

major changes.

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2.2 FASHION COMPONENTS

UNDERSTAND MARKETING CONCEPTSCircle the best answer for each of the following questions.

1. What is considered softlines in fashion?a. garments for plus sizesb. software for fashion designersc. clothing, shoes, and accessoriesd. layers of clothing

2. Women’s wear is made ina. only two sizes.b. all sizes.c. junior, misses, petite, and women’s sizes.d. little and big sizes.

THINK CRITICALLYAnswer the following questions as completely as possible. If neces-sary, use a separate sheet of paper.

3. Describe major influences that affect the demand for fashions.

4. Communication Write a paragraph about the economic andhistorical changes that influenced the current style of men’s cloth-ing. Discuss your ideas with a small group of students and com-pare your thoughts.

TEACHING STRATEGIESLimited-English-ProficiencyStudentsAsk students to verbally summa-rize the major points of the lesson.Write the steps on a chalkboard instandard English for them to see.

TEACHING STRATEGIESAttention-Deficit-DisorderStudentsAsk another student to help anADD student by peer tutoring onthe information found in the les-son.

ASSESSReteachAsk students to describe the dif-ferences and similarities betweenmen’s, women’s and children’sclothing.

EnrichAsk students to prepare a presen-tation on the technological, eco-nomic, and social factors that arecurrently influencing fashion.

CLOSEAsk students to think about thelast purchase they made and whythey bought that particular item.What were the major influenceson their purchase?

c

c

Social, political, technological, and economic forces; gender; and trend

setters.

Answers will vary but should include information about the rise of the middle

class.

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THE BASICS OF FASHION

CHAPTERCHAPTER

22Lesson 2.3

DESIGN AND COLOR

BY DESIGNSuccessful and legendary classic styles are not theatrical,

but memorable. The principles and elements of designare used to create both eye-pleasing and financially suc-cessful styles.

THE PRINCIPLESThe principles of design are the fundamental rules that

guide good design, whether for a garment, a home furnish-ing, or a print media advertisement. These design principlesinclude balance, contrast, rhythm, unity, and proportion.

Balance can be achieved by placing equal weights at equaldistance from the center to create formal balance. Informalbalance can be achieved by moving a heavier weight towardthe center and moving a lighter weight to the outer edge.

Contrast or emphasis is what attracts your attention at firstglance. Opposites in size or color stand out because of con-trast. A dark area in the midst of light, such as black pocketson a white shirt, creates contrast and catches your eye.

Explain the princi-ples and elementsof design.

Explain the impor-tance of color infashion.

38

Inspiration for fashion comes from many sources, includingtrend setters, environmental influences, and everyday itemsand events. Using an automobile that is a retro-design of a

vintage car as an inspiration for fashion can attract media atten-tion for both the designer and the automobile company.

Ford Motor Company hired eight American designers to usethe Ford Thunderbird as a design inspiration for women’s andmen’s wear. Designer William Reid used denim with metallic de-tails reflecting the car’s trim for a dressy design. Accessory de-signers Richard Lambertson and John Truex created a handbagfrom the convertible’s soft-top fabric. Gene Meyer honored theThunderbird with a bold leather jacket embossed with the car’semblem on the chest. John Bartlett reflected the car’s pin-pricked leather seats in a red mesh T-shirt. Larry Leight ofOliver Peoples Eyewear designed sunglasses with a slopingframe modeled after the Thunderbird’s windshield.

Work with a group. Discuss where ideas for new fashionproducts begin. Why would an auto manufacturer hire fashiondesigners to use a car for inspiration?

The Latest Style

PRODUCT/SERVICE

MANAGEMENT

SCHEDULEBlock 45 minutesRegular 1 class period

FOCUSDiscuss the relationship of fashiondesign and art with students. Askthem to talk about what designershave in common with people whoare good artists.

THE LATEST STYLEAsk students to discuss what find-ing an inspiration for fashionmeans to them. Where do theythink designers get ideas?

Answers for The Latest StyleCooperative LearningAnswers will vary. The major reason for an auto manufacturer to hire adesigneris to pro-mote theauto to acustomerinterestedin fashion.

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Rhythm creates eye movement and oc-curs when an element is repeated. Theeye can be directed by repeating color,such as a white collar and white cuffs on adark dress.

Unity links the visual elements, makingthem appear to belong together. Wearing atie that contains small amounts of the colorof the jacket helps unite the outfit.

Proportion relates the size and shape ofall the elements used in a design. In fash-ion, proportion is created with lines andshapes. A short jacket with a long skirt canbe in proportion.

THE ELEMENTSThe elements of design include lines,shapes, texture, and color. The principlesare applied to the elements, which cometogether to define the design.

Lines can be curved or straight and flow-ing or pointed. Lines give direction and di-vide the design with seams, waist lines, oreven sleeves.

Shapes or silhouettes are formed whenlines enclose a space. The basic fashionsilhouettes include hourglass, rectangle,and triangle.

Texture is the feel of the design and canbe created using different weaves of a fab-ric or visually with lines.

The use of color in the design can affectmoods, feelings, and emotions.

When the principles of design are ap-plied to the elements, a work of art is cre-ated. All designs contain the elements, butapplication of the principles determineshow pleasing the design will be to theviewer.

39

2.3 DESIGN AND COLOR

At www.apparelsearch.com/glossary.htm isa dictionary of textileand apparel industryterms. This list includesterms that describe fab-rics, garments, styles,and accessories. Defini-tions include some his-torical information onthe origins of many ofthe words.

Students wanting tolearn the jargon of theindustry can use theshort, factual bits of in-formation as an elec-tronic encyclopedia offashion. The historicalreferences in many ofthe definitions add inter-est to the items.

THINK CRITICALLYWhy might a fashioncompany be interestedin providing free accessto fashion vocabularyand historical informa-tion on its web site?

Give an example of how shapes can be balanced.

Cyber MarketingAllow students to visit thewww.apparelsearch.com/glos-sary.htm web site to look up thefashion term A-Line. Relate an A-line garment to the elements ofdesign.

Think CriticallyTo attract visitors to the web site.

Ongoing AssessmentUse the Try It On as an opportu-nity to conduct ongoing assess-ment of student comprehension ofthe lesson material.

TEACHVisual examples of the elementsof design will help some studentsbetter grasp the concepts.

Use an example of a teeter-totter with equal weight on either end, like pockets on

both sides of a shirt.

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COLORColor is so important to fashion that whole associations exist just to

predict the trends in color. Two of the associations are the Color Mar-keting Group and the Color Association of the United States (CAUS).

FORECASTSCAUS, founded in 1915, is the oldest of the associations.It was established when World War I made it difficult to getcolor forecasts from Europe, where color trends were be-ing forecast at the time. The U.S. textile industry neededthe color information for upcoming production runs. A com-mittee of U.S. textile professionals was formed to choosethe colors. The colors were made available to the textile

industry as an American “color card” and were issued twice a year toprovide directions in color trends. The information included formulas formixing the colors, so the colors were standardized across the industry.The color forecasts are now divided into segments of the industry, suchas women’s fashions, men’s fashions, and home/interior fashions. Theforecasts are sent to approximately 1,000 members.

COLOR TRADITIONSCulturally, colors can take on significant meanings that can be fashion-ably applied to garments. In many Asian cultures, red means happinessand is worn for celebrations. Jewish tradition uses red as a sign of loveand blue for glory. In the United States, patriotism is represented with

red, white, and blue. The colors of theU.S. flag were standardized by CAUSand are called “Old Glory red” and “OldGlory blue.”

Colors affect people’s senses and at-tract or repel buyers. A designer gener-ally depends on the color forecasts todevelop a plan for the current collectionof garments so that the garments will fitwith what is trendy. Colors that appeal toconsumers can make a good design agreat-selling garment.

40

2 THE BASICS OF FASHION

As part of an extensivemarketing campaign,

advertising mogul MaryWells Lawrence hired

designers to redecoratethe interiors of an air-line’s terminals and

planes and design newuniforms for the flight

attendants. Seven daz-zling colors were cho-sen to represent the

airline’s sunny destina-tions. The bright colorshelped turn a depress-ing, dismal business

into a 1960s marketingsuccess story.

MARKETING-INFORMATIONMANAGEMENT

What events or attitudes might influence the direction offashion?

Time OutAsk students if they have ever no-ticed that similar colors show upacross several stores and namebrands at about the same time.

TEACHAsk students to discuss the im-pact of color on people’s emo-tions.

Ongoing AssessmentUse the Try It On as an opportu-nity to conduct ongoing assess-ment of student comprehension ofthe lesson material.

Answers will vary. Red, white, and blue are popular when the mood of the United

States is very patriotic.

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41

2.3 DESIGN AND COLOR

UNDERSTAND MARKETING CONCEPTSCircle the best answer for each of the following questions.

1. The elements of design includea. lines, shapes, texture, and color.b. documents, marketing, pricing, and dimension.c. management, distribution, and production.d. balance, repetition, contrast, proportion, and emphasis.

2. The principles of design includea. men’s wear, women’s wear, and children’s wear.b. lines, shapes, texture, and color.c. balance, contrast, rhythm, unity, and proportion.d. designers, retailers, and manufacturers.

THINK CRITICALLYAnswer the following questions as completely as possible. If neces-sary, use a separate sheet of paper.

3. Why is color so important in fashion?

4. Communication Choose a garment and write a paragraph de-scribing it. Explain how the principles of design were applied tothe elements.

TEACHING STRATEGIESStudents with DyslexiaPair a dyslexic student with a stu-dent who does not have dyslexia.Ask the students to read the les-son in pairs. Have one studentread and the other student ver-bally summarize the chapter.

TEACHING STRATEGIESAuditory LearnersAsk students to state the most im-portant parts of the lesson. Askother students to define conceptsout loud.

ASSESSReteachIn groups, have students makeposters with examples of the prin-ciples and elements of design.

EnrichHave students make a five-minutepresentation about the emotionaland psychological effects of color.

CLOSEAsk students to visit the Color As-sociation of the United States website at www.colorassociation.comand look at the services providedfor members. Discuss the impor-tance of the services to fashion.

a

c

Color is very important to fashion because it attracts attention and affects

people’s emotions.

Answers will vary but should include balance, contrast, rhythm, unity, and

proportion.

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THE BASICS OF FASHION

CHAPTERCHAPTER

22Lesson 2.4

TEXTILES AND CONSTRUCTION

THE FOUNDATIONGarments are made of textiles. Although the textile indus-

try is not seen as a glamorous segment of fashion mar-keting, it is the foundation of the industry. Textiles servefashion marketing as the trend barometer, the scientific re-search arm, the political seismograph, and the reflector ofcurrent art. Fashion designers create using textiles. De-signers look to the textile industry to forecast what’s com-

ing for next season and to offer a new medium for the designer toshape. The textile industry is a global industry and the “fabric” of fashionmarketing, both literally and figuratively.

NATURE’S FABRICSIn the early 1900s, the majority of fabrics were made from three naturalfibers—silk, wool, and cotton. Fibers are the thin threads that are spuninto yarn. Yarn is woven into fabric. Fibers are called natural when theycome from living plants or animals. Each of the three natural fibers hasa mystique and history of its own.

Silk was used to richly dress royalty and aristocrats. Silk is lightweightand can keep the skin warm or cool. Silk is made from the cocoon of thesilkworm, which eats only mulberry leaves. Unraveling the continuous

Explain the originsof common naturaland man-madefibers.

List the aspects ofquality garment con-struction.

42

In 1909, Anna and Laura Tirocchi immigrated to the UnitedStates from Italy, and within two years had established a dress-making shop in a mansion in Providence, Rhode Island. The

shop was called A. & L. Tirocchi Gowns, and it served famousand wealthy people from 1915 until 1947. The sisters acquiredfabric and ideas from Paris for the fashions that they created.

During the 1920s, business turned from custom garments tohigh-fashion, ready-to-wear and pre-designed, ready-to-cutclothing. After closing in 1947, the virtually intact shop was re-discovered in 1989, complete with garments and textiles as wellas business records. The contents of the shop chronicled thehistory of women’s fashions and the increasing freedom ofwomen during that time. The historically significant shop con-tents were donated to the Rhode Island School of Design, andsome can be seen at http://tirocchi.stg.brown.edu/.

Work with a group. Discuss what might be learned from ex-amining garments and fabrics used over the 30-plus years ofthis business.

The Latest Style

PRODUCT/SERVICE

MANAGEMENT

SCHEDULEBlock 45 minutesRegular 1 class period

FOCUSAsk students to provide examplesof garments they have owned thatwere poorly constructed and whythey felt that way. Have they hada seam that “grinned” with littlepressure or hems that fell out?

THE LATEST STYLEAllow students to visit the web sitehttp://tirocchi.stg.brown.edu andlook at the kind of information that is available about the historyof textiles and construction offashions.

Answers for The Latest StyleCooperative LearningAnswers will vary but should in-clude a connection to improve-ments in technology and thechanges in the social and eco-nomic climates of the UnitedStates.

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fiber spun by the worm produces a fil-ament. A filament is a long, continu-ous fiber, and a silk filament may beas much as 1,100 yards long. Be-cause silk fiber has triangular shapesin its makeup, it reflects light and ap-pears shiny.

Wool fibers are produced from ani-mal hair called fleece. Most wool isfrom sheep. Other animal fleece, suchas from angora goats or llamas, isalso called wool. Australia producesmore wool than any other country.

Cotton fibers are produced from theseed pods of the cotton plant. Cottonblossoms wither and fall, leaving agreen pod called a boll. The cottonbolls ripen and pop open, exposingthe fluffy cotton fibers. Cotton com-prises more than 40 percent of the

fiber production in the world, with India and the United States being ma-jor producers.

One of the major uses of cotton fabric is the production of denim. Thefabric originated in Nimes, France, and was originally called serge deNimes. The name was later shortened to denim. Denim was used byLevi Strauss to produce a long-lasting pant worn by California miners.Today, denim’s popularity barely fades before its cycle starts over.

MAN-MADE FIBERSFibers may be produced using a combination of cellulose and chemicalsor may be produced with chemicals alone. Cellulose fibers are produced

43

2.4 TEXTILES AND CONSTRUCTION

Cotton Incorporatedpublishes a weekly se-ries of articles based

on research aboutAmerican consumer at-titudes and behaviors.Cotton Incorporated isa company dedicatedto increasing the de-

mand for cottonthrough research and

promotion.

TEACHWhile the United States is continu-ing to lose production of textiles toother nations, Italy remains solidlyentrenched in the textile business.As much as 91 percent of the silkproduced in Europe is made inItaly. Three areas of Italy lead intextile production—Como for silkand Biella and Prato for wool.

Tencel Fibers commissioned de-signer R. Scott French to createan entire men’s wear collectionfrom Tencel, a biodegradable fibermade from wood pulp.

Time OutThe articles from Cotton Incorpo-rated are run each Thursday inWomen’s Wear Daily and are ti-tled “Lifestyle Monitor.” The arti-cles discuss research related tocotton clothing. For example, re-search shows that women own anaverage of 3.6 pairs of denimshorts and have maintained thataverage for five years.

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using plants combined with chemical processes. Fibers produced withonly chemicals are called synthetics. Both cellulose and synthetic fibersare referred to as man-made fibers.

Cellulose fabrics include rayon, acetate, and triacetate. Since silkworms only eat mulberry leaves, Hillaire de Chardonnet, a Frenchman,first produced cellulose fibers in the late 1880s by using the leaves andchemically reproducing the process used by the worms. The fibers heproduced are now known as rayon.

Synthetic fibers include polyester, nylon, spandex, and acrylic. Majorinternational chemical companies use petroleum-based chemicals toproduce synthetic fibers.

From cottage industries hundreds of years ago to technology-basedmass production today, the textile industry is a global force that influ-ences every garment made in the world. The mass production of fabricmade possible the movement of fashion from royalty to the masses.

The textile industry has always led and supported the fashion indus-try. Before a designer can begin to create an idea, the designer musthave material with which to work. Consumers must like all of the ele-ments—color, texture, line, shape, and mass—of the textiles used be-fore they will choose to buy the garments created.

44

2 THE BASICS OF FASHION

Why are some fibers called natural fibers?

TEACHTencel is a cellulose fiber and oneof the first new fibers in the last30 years. It is considered an envi-ronmentally friendly textile be-cause it is made from wood frommanaged forests. It also uses aclosed-loop, solvent-spinning sys-tem that reuses solvents. It ex-ceeds the strength of cotton whenwet or dry.

Research into the use of man-made fibers and cellulose fibershas a potential to grow. Produc-tion of fabrics that improve peo-ple’s comfort in extreme climateswill continue to have a market.

The early man-made fabrics likevinyl were waterproof but uncom-fortable because they held peo-ple’s sweat next to their skin, sothey became soaked on the in-side.

Ongoing AssessmentUse the Try It On as an opportu-nity to conduct ongoing assess-ment of student comprehension ofthe lesson material.

Some fibers are natural because they are made from plant or animal fibers.

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UNDER CONSTRUCTIONTo turn fabric into an apparel line requires knowledge of

garment construction, including patternmaking, fabricmarking, garment assembly, and selec-tion of findings. Findings are all of thenotions, besides the main fabric, thatare needed to complete the garmentsand include zippers, buttons, thread, lin-

ing materials, and trims.

PUTTING IT TOGETHERRecognizing the characteristics of quality garmentconstruction takes time and knowledge. Comparingthe construction of high-quality and low-quality gar-ments can help a novice understand the characteris-tics of quality. The cost of a garment is directlyrelated to the techniques used in construction of thegarment. Garments can be very inexpensively con-structed, but may soon start to deteriorate and be re-turned by the consumer to the retailer. A retailer whoreceives multiple returns with the same constructionproblem will expect the manufacturer to correct orpay for the problem, costing the manufacturer itsprofit.

The interlocking or interlooping of thread used tojoin two pieces of fabric is called stitching. The jointat which the two pieces of fabric meet is called aseam. Stitching is second only to the fabric in impor-tance to the quality of a garment. If you have everhad a hem fall out or a seam pop open, then thetype of stitching used was the problem. For example,a simple chainstitch that is interlooped uses only onethread, unravels easily, and is very inexpensive. Agarment constructed with quality has more expensive

stitches that usemore thread and re-quire more production time. For exam-ple, an interlocked stitch is strong butcosts more.

Quality Turning a garment inside outcan help you learn about constructionand quality. Look for no raw edges, noloose thread, and no broken stitches. Onthe outside, look for buttonholes that aresized right for the button and have anadequate amount of thread to withstanduse. If the zipper comes apart whenstress is applied to the two sides, it iscalled ratcheting and indicates a cheapzipper that will not last.

45

2.4 TEXTILES AND CONSTRUCTION

PRODUCT/SERVICE

MANAGEMENT

Loro Milan ties are soldonline. The web site athttp://www.loromilan.com provides a simpleyet elegant way to buyItalian silk ties at inex-pensive prices. The sitealso provides informa-tion about the history ofsilk, the history of ties,the manufacturing ofties, and the variousways to tie a tie.

THINK CRITICALLYWhy would Loro Milanprovide historical infor-mation about ties andsilk on its web site?Who might want the in-formation about how totie a tie?

Cyber MarketingHave students visit the web site, ifpossible, to look at the photos andinformation described.

Think CriticallyThe historical informa-tion about ties and silkis presented to interestcustomers and showwhat a knowledgeablegroup Loro Milan isabout silk ties. Menlooking for a new way totie a tie or women whodo not know how to tie atie might be interested.

TEACHThe construction andfabric used in men’swear are very importantto the finished look. Ital-ian men’s wear is knownfor quality. Melchiorre isan Italian brand ofmen’s shirts that is sewnwith 22 stitches per inchand single-needle tailor-ing.

Ask a person who isknowledgeable aboutgarment construction, forexample a consumerscience teacher, a buyeror a professional sales-person from a clothingstore, or a tailor. Askthem to speak to theclass and bring samplesof high-quality garmentsto show.

Students also couldbring good and bad

examples of garment constructionto share with the class.

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Companies that develop high-quality garments perform three types ofinspections, with the first while the garment is still under construction. Asecond inspection is done when the product is finished, and a third andfinal inspection is done on all, or at least on random samplings of, thegarments produced.

46

2 THE BASICS OF FASHION

MARGARET WALCH

Margaret Walch has a careerthat impacts the colors of

much of the clothing purchasedin the United States. As directorof the Color Association of theUnited States (CAUS), she assistswith forecasting the colors usedby the American textile, fashion,and interior design industries.

After earning a bachelor’s de-gree in history and fine art and amaster’s degree in social history,Margaret Walch began her careeras a journalist. She worked inthe United States and London fora textile magazine, AmericanFabrics. Back in the UnitedStates, she wrote the ColorSource Book and began workingfor CAUS, eventually moving upto the position of director. Shehelps educate fashion marketersabout the importance of color tosuccessful marketing and fre-quently lectures on color to busi-ness organizations, such as May

Department Stores, Nike, and theAmerican Society of Interior De-signers.

Ms. Walch also edits CAUSNews, the association’s newslet-ter, and has written two otherbooks on color including LivingColors: The Definitive Guide toColor Palettes through the Ages.The history of colors used infashion and decoration is usedin predicting the essence of fu-ture colors. Ms. Walch is consid-ered an international expert oncolor and its impact on people.She has focused her careeraround color.

THINK CRITICALLY1. Why do you think color is soimportant to fashion marketing?2. Discuss with a partner howcolor impacts you and the cloth-ing choices you make. Write aparagraph about the colors youlike and how they make you feel.

Why does quality cost more?

Quality costs more because it takes time and resources, which cost money.

Ongoing AssessmentUse the Try It On as an opportu-nity to conduct ongoing assess-ment of student comprehension ofthe lesson material.

Trend SettersThere are additional professionalcolor associations to which gar-ment and textile manufacturerscan belong.

The primary colors are red, yel-low, and blue. They can be mixedtogether to form the secondarycolors. Yellow and red mix to-gether to form orange. They allare considered warm colors asso-ciated with action and danger.Stop signs are red, and warningsigns are yellow. Blue and yellowmake green, and blue and redmake purple. These are the coolcolors associated with calm andnature.

Allow students to talk about howcolors impact them personally.

Think Critically1. Color is important because itimpacts people’s choices of fash-ion.

2. Answers will vary.

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47

2.4 TEXTILES AND CONSTRUCTION

UNDERSTAND MARKETING CONCEPTSCircle the best answer for each of the following questions.

1. What is meant by natural fibers?a. light-colored fibersb. fibers favored by naturalistsc. high fibersd. fibers originating from plants or animals

2. Two types of stitches area. terms and textiles.b. seams and stress.c. needles and handles.d. interlocking and interlooping.

THINK CRITICALLYAnswer the following questions as completely as possible. If neces-sary, use a separate sheet of paper.

3. Social Studies Select a natural fiber and research the specificgeographic regions in which that natural fiber is developed andwhy. Present a short report to the class about your findings.

4. Communication Write a paragraph about why denim has beena popular fabric for more than 100 years. Include some informa-tion about what styles are currently popular in denim.

TEACHING STRATEGIESVisually Impaired StudentsUse voice-recognition software toallow the students to surf the In-ternet.

TEACHING STRATEGIESGifted LearnersProvide gifted learners an oppor-tunity to find out more about tex-tiles and garment construction bycompleting research on the topicand sharing the information withthe class.

ASSESSReteachGive students 5 to 10 minutes todefine and give an example foreach of the elements and princi-ples of design.

EnrichStudents could select a garmentand research the history of its de-sign. The information could bepresented as a written report orpresentation to the class.

CLOSEAsk students to discuss how thelook and feel of different fabrics isbetter for some functional gar-ments than others; for example,cotton to absorb moisture insportswear or wool to providewarmth.

d

d

Answers will vary. Students should use cotton, silk, linen, wool, or other nat-

ural fibers to answer.

Answers will vary but should include denim’s popularity for being durable and

comfortable.

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REVIEW MARKETING CONCEPTSWrite the letter of the term that matches each definition. Someterms will not be used.

____ 1. A long, continuous fiber____ 2. Thin threads that are spun into yarn____ 3. The interlocking or interlooping of

thread to join two pieces of fabric____ 4. Fibers produced using plants and

chemical processes____ 5. Man-made fibers that are produced

totally from chemicals____ 6. Clothing items of fabrics or leather____ 7. Joint where two pieces of fabric meet____ 8. Include zippers, buttons, and thread____ 9. A less expensive copy of a haute cou-

ture designer garment

Circle the best answer.10. Fashion is no longer centered only in France because of

a. economics.b. global communications.c. technology.d. all of these.

11. Three segments of fashions area. small, medium, and large.b. men’s, women’s, and children’s.c. style, design, and color.d. none of these.

12. What are the three major natural fibers?a. nylon, rayon, and acetateb. polyester, cotton, and linenc. silk, cotton, and woold. rayon, spandex, and wool

13. Environmental factors affecting demand includea. fibers and filaments.b. acetate and rayon.c. style and design.d. social, technological, and economic.

CHAPTERCHAPTER

22 REVIEW

THE BASICS OF FASHION

48

a. cellulose fibersb. couturierc. demandd. elements of designe. fibersf. filamentg. findingsh. haute couturei. knockoffj. seam

k. softlinesl. stitching

m. synthetics

ASSESSReteachInvite a designer to talk to theclass about how he or she bringstogether color, textiles, and con-struction in a garment design.

EnrichAsk students to create a presenta-tion about the how past nationalevents have impacted the fash-ions of the time.

PORTFOLIO ASSESSMENTHave students add the followingmaterials to their portfolios:• Paragraph on the history of

pants.• Paragraph on the economic and

historical changes that influencemen’s clothing.

• Paragraph describing how theprinciples of design apply to agarment.

• Posters of the elements andprinciples of design.

• Paragraph about denim.• Presentation about how national

events impact fashion.• Presentation about the history of

clothing in Europe and its effecton men’s clothing today.

fel

a

m

kjgi

d

b

c

d

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THINK CRITICALLY14. Spend five minutes discussing with another student why cultures in-

fluence fashions. Make a list of reasons a fashion marketer needsto know about multiple cultures.

15. How has the development of textiles influenced the fashion indus-try? Describe the importance of fabric to the fashion industry.

16. Why was France originally the center of fashion? Why are theremultiple centers of fashion now? How did the spread of democra-cies and technology move the center of fashion from France?

17. Describe the origins of denim. How did the fabric get its name? Ofwhat fiber is it made?

FASHION MARKETING

49

Answers will vary but should include the need to know about multiple cultures be-

cause they are customers or are potential customers.

The technological improvements in fabric have given the fashion industry opportu-

nities to design in new ways. Textiles are of major importance to fashion. They are

the foundation on which the creation is based.

France was the center of fashion because of money and interest in fashion. De-

mocratization of fashion brought about multiple centers of fashion. Middle-class

people could buy fashions, and they were available around the world.

Denim was originally from Nimes, France. The name was shortened from serge

de Nimes. It is made of cotton.

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MAKE CONNECTIONS18. Marketing Math You want to produce 100 garments that you can

sell for $75.00 each. It takes 5 yards of fabric that costs $7.50 peryard to make each garment. The findings you want for each gar-ment cost $15.00, and it will take a garment manufacturer 1/2 hourto produce each garment at $14.00 per hour. How many garmentswill you have to sell to pay for the fabric, findings, and constructioncosts?

19. Ecology Why are some fabrics considered man-made and othersconsidered natural? Which ones are made of totally renewable re-sources?

20. Technology How has technology changed the production of tex-tiles? How has this changed fashion? Why does global communica-tion over the Internet and TV affect fashion?

THE BASICS OF FASHION

50

CHAPTERCHAPTER

22REVIEWREVIEW

$37.50 (5 yards of fabric X $7.50 per yard) + $15.00 (findings) + $7.00 (1/2 hour

X $14 per hour) = $59.50 X 100 garments = $5,950 ÷ $75 selling price per gar-

ment = 79.333 or 80 garments that must be sold at $75 each to pay for costs.

Natural fibers come from plants or animals. Man-made fabrics come from chemical

processes. Natural fibers are totally renewable.

The production of textiles is almost totally automated. This has made garments

less expensive to produce. Global communication spreads trends around the

world.

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You are the manager of an upscale clothing store that pays sales asso-ciates commission on sales. Competition among the sales associates atyour store is fierce. Frequently, more than one sales associate ap-proaches the same customer for a possible sale. This has led to argu-ments among sales associates and has lost business.

Sales associates at your store are expected to be fashion expertswho know how clothes should look with the proper fit. You have no-ticed that sometimes sales associates are so anxious to complete a salethat they are not totally honest with customers. Customers are soldclothing that does not fit correctly.

The policy at your clothing store is “free alterations for the life of thegarment.” Most sales associates are not eager to help customers whobring in older clothing for alterations. Sales associates feel that the timetaken to size older clothes reduces their sales of new clothing. Yourstore owner believes that the free lifetime alterations policy results inloyal customers.

As manager of the store, you must present a strategy to the owner toimprove customer service and the image of sales associates. You mustdevise the best strategy for paying sales associates, altering clothing,and establishing long-lasting customer relations. The bottom line is toachieve maximum sales with the best service. You have ten minutes todevise your strategy, and you will be given ten minutes for the role playto present your strategy to the store owner.

FASHION MARKETING

51

www.deca.org/publications/HS_

Guide/guidetoc.html

FASHION RETAIL MANAGEMENT ROLE PLAY

You are working with a fashion manufacturer to predict trends in fash-ion based on what has happened in the past. You want to see if youcan increase the speed at which styles in men’s wear make dramaticchanges similar to women’s fashion trends.

Work with a group and complete the following activities.

1. Research men’s wear fashion history on the Internet or at the li-brary. Go to www.google.com and search for men’s fashion his-tory, or use information and books from your school library.

2. Write a description of a period of time when men’s and women’sclothing in Europe were similar in decoration and colors. Includeinformation about the environmental characteristics of the time thatimpacted men’s fashions.

3. Discuss your ideas with the group, and prepare a two-minute pre-sentation on the topic. Use computer presentation software to cre-ate your presentation. Insert pictures of clothing from the timeperiod, if possible.

DECA PREPEach assignment in this role playfollows the guidelines set byDECA for Business Services Mar-keting Role Play. Refer to theDECA web site for detailed infor-mation about this event.

THE COLLECTION POINTUniversity web sites offer excellentresearch material on the history offashion.

This project could be coordinatedwith a history lesson. Contact theSocial Studies department withinyour school to make the connec-tion. The fashion marketing stu-dents could make theirpresentations to the history class.

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