36852590 fabric identification

8/3/2019 36852590 Fabric Identification

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Fabric

IdentificationAdvanced

Fabric

Joy Jordan, Extension 4-H Youth Development Specialist

and Tiffany Browning 4-H Project Coordinator,

Department of Family, Youth & Community Sciences.


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Know Fibers and Fabrics! Know thegenericnames of man-made fibers.

These are approved and assigned by theFederal Trade Commission (FTC).

Too frequently a fiber is referred to by atrademark or brand name instead of thegeneric name.


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Types of FabricsThere are two basic types

1. Natural (from plants and animals)

2. Manufactured (from chemicals)


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This chart classifies fibers into natural and man-made.

NATURAL

MAN-MADE

Protein

Silk

MohairAngora

Wool

Cellulosic

Ramie

Cellulosic

Glass

Novalid*

Modacrylic

Metallic

Lastrile

PBI

RubberSulfar

Acetate Rayon


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FABRICCHARACTERISTICS

When selecting fabric or a garment youwant to inspect

Durability

Performance

How to Care for the fabric.


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Texture Characteristics Texture is determined by the way fabric is

constructed and the type of yarn used.

Every fabric has its own feel,

look, and sound.

The hand of a fabric is its weight,thickness, and how the fabric drapes.


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Color Characteristics Color can be introduced at many stages.

When color is introduceddepends on the fiber

content and the intendedend use.

Dyeing methods include: Fiber Dyedbefore yarn spinning Yarn Dyed Fabric Dyed(also called Piece dyeing)

Garment Dyed(also called Product dyeing).


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Printing Color Printing methods include:

Direct Dyeing(directly adds color to thefabric in the pattern desired by a stamp orroller)

Discharge Printing(where the fabric is dyed,

then a chemical is used to remove color) Resist Printing(when color is prevented fromentering a piece of fabric such as batik, tie-dye, or screen printing)

Stencil Printing(is when a design is cut fromthin metal sheets) Jet Printing(which uses a continuous

stream of dye that is forced through jets

to color the fibers.


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Colorfastness Colorfastness refers to the durability and

performance of the fabric color.

Ways that color may be changed or destroyedare:

Crocking(the rubbing of color from fabric). Bleeding(fading or loss of color in water). Migration(when color shifts from one area

of a printed fabric to another). Frosting(localized change or loss in colorcaused by abrasion during wear or cleaning).

Fading(loss of color by sunlight,

perspiration, washing, or bleaching).


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Colorfast Tests To determine if crockingwill occur use a white cloth

or white paper towel and rub lightly to see if the colorrubs off. This test can be done with a dry cloth and awet cloth.

Placing fabric in a bowl of water and using varying

temperatures will tell you if the fabric is colorfast towater.

To test if migratingwill occur placing a printed fabricin a bowl of water at varying temperatures will tell youin the color will transfer to other parts of the fabric.

To see if a garment is fadedcheck the shoulders ofgarments in retail stores to see if any color has been

lost.


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Comfort Characteristics Absorbencyis the ability of fiber to take up moisture

from the body or environment. This fabric is morecomfortable to wear.

Wickingis the ability of water to travel along a fiber

without being absorbed.

Hydrophobicis water hating fiber, and Hygroscopiciswater loving fiber.

How breatheablea fabric is relates to howcomfortable it will be. To test if a fabric is breatheablehold it up and

breathe through it. If you cannot feel your breath

on the other side it is not.


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Care Characteristics Dimensional stability the tendency of fabricto maintain its original shape and size.

Residual shrinkageis when fabric decreases insize after washing or dry cleaning. Preshrunk

means that a fabric has gone through apreshrinking treatment.

Resiliency- is the ability of a fabric to spring

back after crushing or wrinkling. To conduct awrinkle recovery testcrush the fabric in yourhand and find out if the fabric wrinkles a lotof not at all. Some fabrics will recover and

others will not.


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Care Characteristics Heat Sensitive- refers to the sensitivity of

fibers to heat such as an iron. Natural fibers(cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and wool) are not asheat sensitive as man-made fibers (acetate,rayon, polyester, nylon, and acrylic). Lighter

weight fabrics will be more heat sensitive thanheavier and more closely woven or knittedfabrics.

A testto determine if a fabricis heat sensitive is to presswith a cool iron and gradually increase

the heat until the fabric begins to crinkle orchange color. (use scrap fabric for this test.)


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Fabric Durability andPerformance Characteristics Tensile (fabric) strength the breaking ofyarns. Strong yarns have a high tensile

strength. Abrasion the surface wearing of fabric

due to rubbing or friction. Pilling little balls of fibers caused by

abrasion and wearing. Tenacity the stress required to break a

fiber. Elasticity the ability to recover original

size and shape after stress.

Flexibility the ability of a yarn to bendwithout breaking.


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FABRIC FINISHES A fabric finishis any treatment to the

fiber, yarn, or fabric which changes theappearance and behavior of the fabric.

The purpose of a finish is:

1. to increase the aesthetic value eitherby appearance, hand, or drape; and

2. to increase the functional value or itsserviceability.


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Fabric Finishes Fabric finishes may be:

Temporary these type of finishes will

last only until the first washing or drycleaning.

Durable these finishes will last throughseveral washings or dry cleanings.

Permanent these type of finishes willlast the life of the fabric.

Th f f h


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Types ofFinishes Abrasion Resistant Absorbent Anti-Bacterial

Anti-Static Calendering Crease-Resistant Fire-

Resistant/Retardant Fire-Proof

These are a few of the most commonfinishes, the hangtag or garmentlabel should tell you if the fabric hasbeen finished.

Permanent Press/

Durable PressSanforizingSizingSoil ReleaseSpot and Stain-ResistantWater RepellentWaterproof


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FABRICS THE FOLLOWING FABRICS WILL

EXPAND YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND ISCONTINOUS FROM THEINTERMEDIATE LIST. YOU WILL

WANT TO KNOW AND BE ABLE TOIDENTIFY THESE FABRICS.


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BASTISTE a soft, sheer fabric, usually made ofcotton and used for blouses, dresses, and nightwear.

BROCADE

is a jacquard weave with raised designsand contrasting surfaces. Can also be woven from silk,or man-made fibers and is used for upholstery andevening wear.

CHARMEUSE is a satin with a crepe back sometimescalled crepe-backed satin.

DAMASK jacquard woven fabrics of various fiber

content. Can be wool, silk, linen, rayon, acetate,worsted wool. Floral or geometric patterns arereversible. Note: Damask tends to be 2 sided-reversible and one color. Brocade is a jacquard thathas a colored, contrasting pattern.


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FAILLE A ribbed fabric with a low luster. Heavieryarns are used in the filling or weft. Example of failleis grosgrain. Silk faille has wider ribs than seen ingrosgrain ribbon and is slightly glossy.

WORSTED FLANNEL It is a twill weave that isvery closely woven, much more so than the wool

flannels. It can have a very slight nap on one side ofthe fabric. Also unlike the wool flannels, it presseswell and holds a hard crease.

GEORGETTE a sheer silk or synthetic fiber, heavierthan chiffon and with the same pebbly surface ofcrepe but with the sheerness of chiffon. It is usedfor dressy clothing.


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HOMESPUN is a loose, strong, durable cotton orwoolen plain weave fabric. The fabric is heavy andunravels easily. It is used in dresses, skirts and in

jackets.

LAWN is a plain weave, soft, very light, combedcotton fabric with a crisp finish.

ORGANZA is similar to cotton organdy except it ismade with silk or rayon and is transparent.

PIQUE Double cloth with two warps (one heavy, one

fine) and two wefts or fillings (one heavy, one fine).Often described by appearance, when woven ofcotton, as birds-eye pique, spiral pique and pigskinpique. Warpwise wale fabric often seen in the US is

actually considered Bedford cord, not pique.


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PLISSE A cotton fabric that has been chemicallyshrunk in stripes, creating a rippled effect. InFrench, means crinkled or pleated.

SAILCLOTH is a very strong, heavy canvas or duckmade in plain weave.

SERGE a sturdy, twill-weave fabric with a diagonalrib on both sides; can be made of wool, silk or rayon.It is used in suits.


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WOOLS AND WOOL BLENDS

CAMEL HAIR This fabric is made from hair from a

camel, sometimes blended with wool or imitated in wool.It is woven in the twill or plain patterns. Theunderhair is best because it is light weight, lustrousand soft. It has quite a long nap and is very warm. The

wool camel hair is not as lustrous and may be spongy,however it wears better when blended.

CASHMERE The fibers come from the kashmir goatfound in Kashmire India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq and South

West China. Often mixed with wool or synthetics tocut costs and improve the wear. It is a very soft silkyfinish and is light weight. It is more like wool than anyother hair fiber. It is used in sweaters, coats, and

suits.

GLEN CHECKS are usually seen in menswear and


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GLEN CHECKS are usually seen in menswear andoriginated in Scotland. It is characterized by a varietyof small, even check designs.

HARRIS TWEED is a hand woven fabric fromScotland with a soft feel.

HERRINGBONE WOOL is woven in a twill that is

reversed at regular spacing, creating a sawtooth line.

HOUNDSTOOTH CHECK has a four pointed starcheck in a broken twill weave.

MOHAIR is hair from the angora goat, but may havesome cotton warp blend. Imitation mohair is made fromwool or other blends. Angora goat is one of the oldestanimals known to man and its hair is two and a half

times stronger than wool. There is a smooth, glossy and

SILK FABRICS


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SILK FABRICSSILK DOUPION is reeled from double cocoonsnested together. The threads are uneven and irregular.Italian Doupionis the finest, followed by Chinese

Doupionand Indian Doupion. Doupionis also seen inman-made fibers such as polyester, acetate andreferred to as doupionni. Silk Doupionis most oftenfound in mens and womens fine suits and also dresses

in lighter weight silk Doupion.

PEAU DE SOIE is a stout, soft silk with fine crossribs. Looks slightly corded. Also calledpaduasoy. Poultde siueis sometimes called faille taffeta. It has heavycross ribs.

PONGEE SILK is a plain woven, thin, naturally tansilk fabric that has a rough weave effect.


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SILK SHANTUNG is a dupionni type of silk thatcomes from the Shantung Province of China.

TUSSAH SILK (tussah means wild) is a plain weavesilk fabric from wild silk worms. It has irregularthick and thin yarns creating uneven surface and color.Wild silkworms feed on leaves other than mulberryleaves. Tussah silk is similar to shantung, with silk fromthe wild. Color is often uneven; usually referred to asraw silk.

36852590 fabric identification

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