2015 guidebook to membership
DESCRIPTION
ÂTRANSCRIPT
-
GUIDEBOOKTO MEMBERSHIP
A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B
-
Celebrating 50 Issues of Alpinist
SUBSCRIBE TODAY alpinist.com/aac
EXCLUSIVE AAC MEMBER PRICING1 Year - $29.95 | 2 Years - $54.95
(Regular Price $49.95) (Regular Price $94.95)
ALP_2015_AAC Ad_FIN.indd 3 2/10/15 1:34 PM
-
A united community of competent climbers andhealthy climbing landscapes.
OUR V IS ION
OUR MISS ION
To support our shared passion for climbing andrespect for the places we climb.
-
If we could sit around a campfire swapping stories
with all 15,117 of you, we would. Did you know that our oldest member is 102 years old, and hes climbed with Ansel Adams? Or that two of our members are truckers and they meet up to climb together all over the
country? What about the three members who started a rappelling clinic inspired by Accidents in North American Mountaineering? This years Guidebook is a celebration of everything we collectively do.
In fact, every photo, story, and bit of art in this Guidebook has been donated by a fellow member... and proves that
when we come together we make great things happen.
Your taleswritten, photographed, and drawnremind
us all why we love the pursuit of the vertical.
Beyond the stories, we want to make sure you have
the resources to take full advantage of your AAC
membership, so you can find Club basics in the back
of this Guidebook. And for those of you who are already members, weve included the Map to Membership, also
created by an AACer, which illustrates events in your
area and lines out 100+ local discounts you have access
to around the country.
We bet you have a story too. Share it with us. Tell us
how youre making the climbing world a little bit better,
or send us your photos and artwork for a chance to be featured in next years Guidebook. Until then, happy climbing!
The [email protected] community of 15,117 members
2
-
a Salute to the AAC during the Fall Highball Craggin Classic in Bishop, CA.
AAC staff member Jeff Deikis
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 3
-
live without limits
www.adidasoutdoor.com
Sasha DiGiulianFlying Circus m10
Ouray, CO
phot
o: a
ndy.
man
n
201
5 ad
idas
AG
. adi
das,
the
3-B
ars
logo
and
the
3-St
ripe
s m
ark
are
regi
ster
ed tr
ade
mar
ks o
f the
adi
das
Gro
up.
-
live without limits
www.adidasoutdoor.com
Sasha DiGiulianFlying Circus m10
Ouray, CO
phot
o: a
ndy.
man
n
201
5 ad
idas
AG
. adi
das,
the
3-B
ars
logo
and
the
3-St
ripe
s m
ark
are
regi
ster
ed tr
ade
mar
ks o
f the
adi
das
Gro
up.
-
08 MEMBERSHIP THROUGH THE LENSmember photos powered by B lack D iamond
18 MEMBER STORIESta les f rom our members
49 BETAinfo you need to know
GUIDE TO THE GUIDE
18 WRIT INGS ON THE WALLpostcards f rom a dream t r ip
20 OFF ROUTE AND ON TARGETa lesson in adventure
22 SAVE PARADISEa conservat ion grant goes to work
24 GETTING $#!T DONEa to i le t for the But termi lks
26 BUILDING COMMUNITY AT THE NEWnotes f rom the New R iver Gorge
28 GRAND GENERATIONSf r iendsh ips forged at the GTCR
30 THE GUNKS CAMPGROUNDfacts f rom the newest AAC lodg ing fac i l i t y
32 THE CRAGGIN CLASS ICSphotos f rom the events
34 A BELAY AROUND THE WORLDthoughts f rom the ICM
36 WOOD & STEELan in terv iew w i th ar t i s t Joe Iurato
38 LEARNING FROM TRAGEDYimprov ing knowledge o f rappe l l ing pract i ces
40 L IFEL INEa rescue in the Karakoram
42 THE DREAM ROOMthe Amer ican A lp ine C lub L ibrary
44 BIG R IGS TO B IG WALLSa gu ide to l i fe on the road
46 MEMORIES : GLEN DAWSONquotes f rom the C lub s o ldest member
6
-
a Steven Charles enjoys a rest day at Mammoth Hot Springs.
b AAC member Carl Zoch
A BELAY AROUND THE WORLDthoughts f rom the ICM
WOOD & STEELan in terv iew w i th ar t i s t Joe Iurato
LEARNING FROM TRAGEDYimprov ing knowledge o f rappe l l ing pract i ces
L IFEL INEa rescue in the Karakoram
THE DREAM ROOMthe Amer ican A lp ine C lub L ibrary
BIG R IGS TO B IG WALLSa gu ide to l i fe on the road
MEMORIES : GLEN DAWSONquotes f rom the C lub s o ldest member
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 7
-
a Mike Libecki in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica on the approach to Berthas Tower. b AAC member Cory Richards
ZOOM
LE
NS
17-55 mm 1:28 IS USM
72MM
M E M B E R S H I P T H R O U G H T H E L E N S
POWERED BY:
8
-
THIS IS YOUR CLUB.THESE ARE YOUR PHOTOS.
WE ARE THE AAC.
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 9
-
a Maria Rosario Toro warms up by biking to the crag on a cold November morning in Indian Creek, UT. AAC member Diego Saez
10
-
a Spotted by a wave on the Hawaii shore. b AAC member Ryan Moss
ZOOM
LE
NS
17-55 mm 1:28 IS USM
72MM
M E M B E R S H I P T H R O U G H T H E L E N S
POWERED BY:
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 11
-
a Nothing beats sending an alpine big wall! Anne Gilbert Chase and Kate
Rutherford nerd out on top of Mt. Hooker in the Wind
River Range, WY. b AAC member Jason Thompson
ZOOM L
ENS
17-5
5 m
m 1:
28
IS U
SM
72MM
ME
MB
ER
SH
IP
T
HR
OU
GH
T
HE
L
EN
S
POW
ERED
BY:
12
-
a [Top] Cathy Flanagan on a link-up of Traverse Ramond and Traverse Sans Retour (6b), Les Calanques, Provence, France. AAC member Joe Stock [Middle] Amber Deming uses a rest day to take in the canyons of the Grand Gulch in Cedar Mesa, UT. AAC member Zachary Winters [Bottom] Paul Hendricks, Dan Zomerlei, and Andrew Hickok strip down in pursuit of freedom, Cordillera Blanca, Peru. b AAC member Andrew Hickok
-
a Pat Kingsbury heads back to camp after a day of searching for new lines in snow, sleet, and rain, UT. b AAC member Jason Gebauer
a Amber Deming experiences a Johannesburg Mountain sunset after skiing early season snow on the Sahale Glacier in the North Cascades, WA. AAC member Zachary Winters
ZOOM L
ENS
17-5
5 m
m 1:
28
IS U
SM
72MM
ME
MB
ER
SH
IP
T
HR
OU
GH
T
HE
L
EN
S
POW
ERED
BY:
14
-
a Matt Sedor takes a ride on The May Fly (5.12d)
on a sweltering summer evening, belayed by
Oregon Section Co-Chair Jesse Bernier, OR. b AAC
member Toby Butterfield
-
a [This Page] Benjamin L Eaton soaks up the morning scenery from his bivy at the top of the fifth pitch on Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park, UT. AAC member Ken Klingler [Opposing Page, Top] Julia Geisler, Kim Hall, and Jewell Lund celebrate the end of a successful weekend of climbing in Castle Valley, UT.b AAC member Louis Arevalo [Opposing Page, Middle Left] The view from Tim Kemples sleeping bag while chasing sunsets, full moons, and sunrises. b AAC member Tim Kemple [Opposing Page, Middle Right] Gretchen lounging on her porch after a long day of climbing in Boulder Canyon, CO. b AAC member Leslie Hittmeier [Opposing Page, Bottom] Daniel Carnahan, Kevin Riley, and Eric Lutz on the couch at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, AR. b AAC member Lucas Marshall
ZOOM
LE
NS
17-55 mm 1:28 IS USM
72MM
M E M B E R S H I P T H R O U G H T H E L E N S
POWERED BY:
2015 GTM PHOTO CONTEST WINNER
16
-
The Dolomites. Thats all I could think about after I hung up the phone. It was November 2013, and my partner Mac and I had just been awarded a Live Your Dream grant. I met Mac in Germany the following summer, and we rented an Audi station wagon, our home for the next month. From there we made our way across the peaks of Northern Italy. It was the biggest, most awesome climbing trip of our lives.
WRITINGSON THE WALL
BY DOMINIC METCALF
A special thank you to Dominic and Mac for sending us a postcard almost every day from June 1327, 2014. We are so glad you had a great time!
AAC
-
a Kim Hall and Jewell Lund in Ruth Gorge, Denali National Park, AK. AAC member Ryan Jennings
20 | MEMBER STORIES
-
Breathing hard, I pulled up to the belay. Proud lead, I
told Kim as I wiped lichen out of my eyes. The corner pitch shed led was covered in dried moss, and the technical
granite stemming was reminiscent of a Slip N Slide.
I think I know where were supposed to be, Kim said,
pointing out some weathered tat two corner systems to
the right. I looked directly above us, where the corner
petered out to a discontinuous flake system. It looked
doable. Why not?
After being awarded a Live Your Dream grant in 2012, Kim
Hall and I set several goals in preparation for our dream
trip to the Bugaboos. We found ourselves off route with
regularity on Elephants Perch, in the Tetons, and among
our local Wasatch Mountains. Sometimes we chose to wander. More often than not, wed arrive at an opaque
decision point that the guidebook never mentioned. As
we deviated, we learned. And as we learned, we began to
relax into unknown terrain, finding ourselves enchanted
with the alpine. We walked away from our LYD trip with gratitude, growth, and more climbing dreams. Lots of
climbing, training, and dreaming eventually pointed us
toward the Alaska Range in 2014.
We prepared for months and trained hard for two phenomenal weeks in the Ruth Gorge. From getting
scrappy and scared on technical pitches on London Tower to a long and elegant line up Mt. Johnson, lots of
sunshine kept us busy. We flew out of the Alaska Range
with sunburned faces and sore muscles, content and ready to eat our body weight in baked goods in Talkeetna.
Looking forward to 2015, with new climbing goals in
Alaska and Central Asia, I cant help but pause and look
back with gratitude. The growth that weve experienced
starting with the 2012 LYD trip is so deeply rooted
in our community: from mentorship, inspiration, and encouragement from fellow climbers to the support of
grants such as the AAC McNeill-Nott Award and the Mugs
Stump Award. We hope to offer the same support and
encouragement to others in our community and are glad
to learn that, sometimes, off-route is exactly where we
want to be.
OFF ROUTE AND ON TARGET
BY JEWELL LUND
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 21
-
You know the feeling. You pull up to the parking area of your
favorite crag on a sunny weekend morning, only to find the
lot full. You turn back out onto the road, greeted by the sight
of cars parked bumper-to-bumper, with every patch of dirt
that could halfway pass as a parking spot already occupied.
After encountering this scenario in the Pendergrass-Murray
Recreational Preserve one too many times, the Red River Gorge
Climbers Coalition took action.
We settled on the perfect location for a new lota parcel of bottomland across Bald Rock Road from the turnoff to the
main PMRP parking lot. Already owned by the RRGCC, the spot
offered easy access to all of the PMRP crags, as well as the ever-
popular Motherlode and Chocolate Factory. Yet a soil analysis
revealed that, unless we wanted to continuously dump money
into the lots upkeep or watch it sink into the clay-and-silt ground
below, we would need to invest in the proper materials and
construction techniques.
Building a parking lot that would cost a projected $6,000 would
be a huge hit to the RRGCCs annual $10,000 maintenance
budget, so we turned to the AAC for some financial assistance.
Through the Cornerstone Conservation Grant, we received
$5,500 for a new parking area.
By layering Geo-mesh fabric, highway stone, and gravel, our
contractor created a hard-packed, well-drained lot that will
withstand traffic and weathering for years to come. The parking
area has provided easier access to crags in the PMRP, thus
decreasing maintenance costs the RRGCC frequently incurred
due to two-wheel drive vehicles attempting to maneuver the
AWD roads. The new lot has also drawn attention to the newly developed, lesser-known Flat Holler crags, helping to disperse
crowds across all the climbing areas the Red has to offer.
SAVE PARADISE(AND PUT UP A PARKING LOT)BY MIKE DRISKELL AND YASMEEN FOWLER
22 | MEMBER STORIES
-
a Joel Unema on Charlie (5.13b) at the Chocolate Factory. b AAC member Nathan Welton
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 23
-
BY JEFF DE IK IS
GETTING $#!T DONE
-
Indeed, the issue of human waste in the Buttermilks has been escalating rapidly, rising in tandem with the exponential growth in
the popularity of climbing during the past 15 years. With a fragile
high-desert environment, minimal yearly rainfall, and an ever-
increasing number of visitors, the ecosystem was literally retching
the stuff back out of the soil.
In 2012 the American Alpine Club and a new local advocacy
organizationthe Bishop Area Climbers Coalitionset out to
restart the dialog with the Inyo National Forest to address the lack
of facilities in the Buttermilks. Ample funding for the project had
accumulated over the years, the result of numerous local donations,
proceeds from the AACs Fall Highball Craggin Classic event, and a
grant from the Bardini Foundation. With funds in the bank and the
community calling for solutions and teamwork, the Inyo National
Forest, AAC, BACC, and the Access Fund began a three-year process
that resulted in the signing of a contract committed to building and
maintaining a permanent toilet in the Buttermilks.
a [This Page] Hern Crane of the U.S. Forest Service and Andrew Schurr of the Bishop Area Climbers Coalition put the finishing touches on the Buttermilk Toilet in Bishop, CA. [Opposing Page] Eastside volunteers lay out building materials during the construction of the Buttermilk toilet. b AAC staff member Jeff Deikis
Early on the morning of October 25th, 2014,
a group of local volunteers and Forest Service
staff gathered in the main parking area and, over
the following days, built the areas first latrine.
The minimalist wood layout interferes as little as possible with the stunning viewshed of the Eastern
Sierra. And the result has been an immediate and drastic improvement in the desert landscape: good
for both visitors to the Buttermilks and the fragile
ecosystems flora and fauna.
If you enjoy climbing in the Eastern Sierra, please consider donating five minutes of your time during the
climbing season to help maintain the Buttermilk Toilet facility. Email [email protected] for information on how to get involved.
I heard the sound of Amy gagging from around the boulder. Then came our dog Obi, staggering out and licking his lips, eyes drunk with satisfaction. Hoping Obi had gotten into our lunch, but suspecting worse, I walked over to investigate and found Amy standing over a partially chewed mound of human waste and toilet paper at the base of the Birthday Bouldera large granite block loaded with three-star problems, here in the middle of the iconic Buttermilks of Bishop, California. What the heck is wrong with people?
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 25
-
Weve all seen itan inexperienced belayer lets go of their brake
hand, or a party of 10 crowds at the base of the ultra-classic route
theyve chosen to toprope, directly through the chains. Over the
past three years working as a climbing instructor for New River
Mountain Guides and witnessing plenty of dangerous, unethical,
or inconsiderate practices at the crag, I developed the idea for Cliff
Notesa living study guide for climbers visiting the New River
Gorge. Every Friday night during the season, a certified guide from
NRMG joins the AAC campfire for an open discussion. Weve had
valuable conversations, and we believe that ambassadors who
care will be contagious in improving our climbing areas.
CLIFF NOTESBY JEFFREY HEARN
A small donation gets you a plate full of pancakes, bacon, and eggs.
Well throw in Folgers finest for a dollar. Bring your own utensils
and cups and follow the smell. The money goes to rebolting!
Each Sunday morning during the busy season in the New River
Gorge, I walked from one campsite to the next, collecting morning
fees and inviting campers to join us for Breakfast, Beta, and
Bolts. By the end of May, our weekly breakfast had become the
hub for climbers to meet up, grab a quick bite, spray about their
latest sends, and ask each other for beta. Around that time, Chris
Whisenhunt rebolted Rico Suave, a mega-classic 5.10a that nearly
everyone had been on, allowing us to show diners exactly where
their donations were going.
Throughout the season, we raised over $700. We plan to keep
the breakfast tradition going to support the New River Alliance of
Climbers rebolting efforts and AAC campground improvements.
Come join us for a good cause and some hearty grub!
BREAKFAST FOR BOLTSBY PAUL NELSON
-
a [Left] David Statler climbing Freaky Stylee (5.12a) at the New River Gorge, WV. b AAC member Dan Brayack [Right] Jessa Goebel and Matt Wilder out for a ride up the stellar NRG arte, Two Bag
Face, New River Gorge, WV. b AAC member Pat Goodman
-
It was dawn, light breaking along the Teton spine. My 18-year-old daughter, Anna, and I were roping up at the Upper Saddle before starting the Owen Spalding route on the Grand. As we reviewed our climbing signals, a guided group walked up. One of the guides said, Hey, arent you Anna?
Oh yeah, I remember you! she replied, finishing
her figure eight. We used to babysit your daughter
at the Climbers Ranch while you and your wife went climbing. That must have been about 10 years ago.
Like so many times before, our web of friends and family radiating from the Grand Teton Climbers Ranch began to vibrate. The Ranch has been the hub of our familys Rockies adventures for over 25 years. We have always felt the other residents were good
company and that the Ranch was a great place to
help grow our kids. We have countless family stories:
evenings of making music around the cooking area; foxes, bear, moose, elk, and owls appearing at the edge of camp; a porcupine quill in the toe; cooking with people from all over the world and giving extra food to dirtbag climbers (who we once were). And, almost always, on the way back to the Ranch, soaking tired feet in Cottonwood Creek.
Whether staff, climbers, hikers, wildlife watchers,
fisherman, Work Week workers, first-timers, or old-
timers, our extended family continues to grow every summer. Weve even had Ranch friends stop in for
a hot meal on our farm in Missouri when theyre traveling across the country. The memories run deep, and for our family, the connections made at the Climbers Ranch span families, adventures, decades, and miles.
GRAND GENERATIONSBY J IM GRACE
28 | MEMBER STORIES
-
a [Left] Long exposure at the Grand Teton Climbers Ranch. b AAC staff member Craig Hoffman [Right Top] Cousins Ada and Anna work out the kinks on a new fiddle tune after a day of hiking. AAC member Jim Grace [Right Middle] Getting the Ranch ready for peak season during Work Week 2012. AAC member Jim Grace [Right Bottom] Old friends meet and reunite on the Ranch: The Grace Family from Missouri, the Bayers from Connecticut, the Bowles from Washington. AAC member Jim Grace
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 29
-
Front Ran
ge
Chair Car
ol Kotche
k
american
alpineclub
.org/p/fro
ntrange
frontrang
e@america
nalpinec
lub.org
New Mex
ico
Chair Pat
Gioannin
i
american
alpineclub
.org/p/ne
wmexico
newmex
ico@ame
ricanalpin
eclub.org
Utah
Chair Bla
ke Summe
rs
american
alpineclub
.org/p/ut
ah
utah@am
ericanalp
ineclub.o
rg
Western S
lope
Chair Lee
Jenkins
american
alpineclub
.org/p/we
sternslop
e
westerns
lope@am
ericanalp
ineclub.o
rg
Wyoming
Chair Mic
ah Rush
american
alpineclub
.org/p/or
egon
oregon@
american
alpineclub
.org
FOOT TR
AIL
100%EXPA
NSION AR
EA
PARKING
AREA
(32 STALL
S+ 4 ADA
)BATHHO
USE AND
PAVILION
FOOTING
S AND
FOUNDA
TION (ON
LY)
ACCESS
ROAD HA
S BEEN A
LIGNED W
/ EXISTIN
G
LOGGING
ROAD FO
R MINIMI
ZED SITE
DISTURB
ANCE
DELINEA
TED
WETLAN
D AREA
WALK-IN
CAMPSIT
ES
WALK-IN
CAMPSIT
ES
CAMPSIT
ES WITH
PARKING
PARKING
FOR WAL
K-IN
CAMPSIT
ES
100' STRE
AM
SETBACK
PARKING
FOR
WALK-IN
CAMPSIT
ES
DELINEA
TED
WETLAN
D AREA
SEPTIC AR
EA #1
COMFOR
T STATIO
N
(N.I.C.)
EXISTING
WELL
PARK OF
FICE FOO
TINGS
AND FOU
NDATION
(ONLY)
SECURIT
Y GATE
ENTRANC
E SIGN
RECYCLI
NG CENTE
R
100%EXPA
NSION AR
EA
SEPTIC AR
EA #2
BIORETEN
TION
AREAS
LEGEND
1.SUR
VEY INFO
RMATION
IS FROM
DRAWIN
GS TITLE
D "SITE P
LAN FOR
SHAWAN
GUNK GA
TEWAY
CAMPGR
OUND", P
REPARE
D BY MED
ENBACH
& EGGER
S, DATE
D: JANUA
RY 21, 20
03.
SUPPLEM
ENTAL S
URVEY IN
FORMAT
ION INCL
UDING IN
DIVIDUA
L TREE L
OCATION
S AND CE
NTER
LINE OF
LOGGING
ROAD, W
ERE OBT
AINED BY
FIELD SU
RVEYS C
ONDUCT
ED BY PIP
C STAFF
FROM
APRIL 20
07 TO PR
ESENT.
2.CON
TRACTO
R SHALL
ENSURE
THAT AL
L REQUIR
ED PERM
ITS AND/O
R APPRO
VALS FOR
THE
WORK HA
VE BEEN
OBTAINE
D PRIOR
TO BEGIN
NING OF
CONSTR
UCTION.
THERE S
HALL BE
NO
ADDITIO
NAL COS
TS ADDE
D TO THE
CONTRA
CT IF CON
STRUCT
ION IS D
ELAYED I
N THE
PROCES
SING AND
OBTAINI
NG OF AL
L PERMIT
S.
3.ALL
SEDIMEN
TATION &
EROSION
CONTRO
L DEVICE
S SHALL
BE INSTA
LLED AND
FULLY
FUNCTIO
NAL PRI
OR TO CO
NSTRUC
TION ACT
IVITIES.
ALL ERO
SION CON
TROL DE
VICES SH
ALL BE
MAINTAIN
ED THRO
UGHOUT
THE DUR
ATION OF
THE CON
TRACT, A
S DEPICT
ED WITHIN
THE
DETAILS
, AND PE
R INSTR
UCTION
OF THE D
IRECTOR
'S REPRE
SENTATI
VE DURIN
G CONST
RUCTION
ACTIVITI
ES.
4.CLE
AR AND R
EMOVE O
NLY THO
SE EXIST
ING TRE
ES, SHRU
BS, AND V
EGETATI
ON WHICH
LIE
WITHIN TH
E IMMED
IATE CON
STRUCT
ION ARE
AS, AS RE
VIEWED A
ND APPR
OVED B
Y THE
DIRECTO
R'S REPR
ESENTA
TIVE. ALL
TREES (
OVER 6"
CALIPER
) MARKE
D FOR RE
MOVAL (U
SING
SURVEY
RIBBON
) BY CON
TRACTO
R SHALL
BE REVIE
WED AND
APPROV
ED BY DI
RECTOR
S
REPRES
ENTATIV
E. ALL T
REES, BR
USH, AN
D VEGET
ATION SL
ATED FO
R REMOV
AL SHAL
L BE
CHIPPED
AND REM
OVED OF
F-SITE BY
THE CON
TRACTO
R. ALL L
ARGE ST
ONES WI
LL BE
STOCKP
ILED FOR
FUTURE
USE.
5.AFTE
R CLEAR
ING AND
GRUBBIN
G, CONT
RACTOR
SHALL S
TRIP AND
REMOVE
ALL EXIS
TING
TOPSOIL
FROM AR
EAS SLA
TED TO
BE CUT O
R FILLED
, AND ST
OCKPILE
THIS MAT
ERIAL WH
ERE
SHOWN
ON THE P
LANS. A
LL STOC
KPILED M
ATERIAL
SHALL B
E TEMPO
RARILY S
TABILIZE
D BY
SEEDING
OR COV
ERING, W
HILE ALS
O BEING
SURROU
NDED BY
A SILT F
ENCE. D
IRECTOR
'S
REPRES
ENTATIV
E MUST A
PPROVE
SEED MI
X.
6.PRO
TECTION
OF EXIS
TING VEG
ETATION
TO REM
AIN SHA
LL REMA
IN ESSE
NTIAL TH
ROUGHO
UT
THE DUR
ATION OF
THE CON
TRACT.
THE CON
TRACTO
R SHALL
STRICTL
Y ADHER
E TO THE
FOLLOW
ING PRO
CEDURE
S TOWAR
DS PROT
ECTION
OF EXIST
ING TRE
ES AND T
HEIR ROO
T
SYSTEM
S:
A.ALL
EXISTING
VEGETA
TION SCH
EDULED
TO REM
AIN SHA
LL BE PR
OTECTE
D AS
ILLUSTR
ATED W
ITHIN THE
PLANS A
ND AS NO
TED BEL
OW.
B.ABS
OLUTELY
NO MEC
HANICAL
OPERAT
ION SHA
LL TAKE
PLACE O
UTSIDE
OF THE
CONSTR
UCTION
LIMITS U
NLESS A
UTHORIZ
ED BY TH
E DIREC
TOR'S RE
PRESEN
TATIVE.
C.THE
RE SHAL
L BE NO
STOCKP
ILING OF
TOPSOIL
, STORAG
E OF MAT
ERIALS O
R EQUIPM
ENT
OUTSIDE
THE CON
STRUCT
ION LIMI
TS THRO
UGHOUT
THE ENT
IRE DUR
ATION OF
THE
CONTRA
CT.
7.DIST
ANCE FR
OM LEAC
H FIELD T
O PROPE
RTY LINE
S SHOWN
ON SHE
ETS U-1
AND U-3.
8.WEL
L LOCAT
IONS ON
ADJOININ
G PROPE
RTIES EX
CEED D.
O.H. STA
NDARDS
. DISTAN
CES ARE
TO
DISTANT
TO BE S
HOWN ON
SITE PLA
N.
414
414
WALK-IN
SITES: (2
4)
DRIVE-IN
SITES: (2
6)
ACCESS
IBLE DRI
VE-IN SI
TES:
CAMPGR
OUND AC
CESS RO
AD (GRA
VEL)
PEDEST
RIAN ACC
ESS TRA
IL (NATU
RAL)
UTILITY P
OLE
PROPER
TY LINE
PROPOS
ED CONT
OURS
EXISTING
CONTOU
RS
TENT PA
D
PICNIC TA
BLE
SITE SIG
NAGE
PROPOS
ED BUILD
INGS
POTABLE
WATER L
OCATION
W
GENERA
L NOTES
:
SLOPED
BOULDE
R WALLS
A. BATH
HOUSE/P
AVILION:
(FOOTIN
GS & FOU
NDATION
ONLY)
CAMPGR
OUND ST
RUCTUR
ES
WOMEN'S
AREA:
3 TOILET
S
3 SINKS
2 SHOWE
RS
MEN'S AR
EA:
2 TOILET
S
1 URINAL
2 SINKS
2 SHOWE
RS
MECHAN
ICAL ROO
M:
HOT WAT
ER HEAT
ER
POTABLE
WATER T
REATME
NT SYST
EM
ADA UNI
SEX ACC
ESSIBLE
AREA:
2 TOILET
S
2 SINKS
2 SHOWE
RS
LAUNDR
Y AREA:
2 WASHE
R/ 2 DRY
ER UNITS
2 UTILITY
SINKS W
/ COUNT
ER
PAVILION
:
30' X 32' A
REA - AT
TACHED
TO BAT
HHOUSE
B. PARK
OFFICE
/ MANAG
ERS QUA
RTERS:
(FOOTING
S & FOUN
DATION
ONLY)
MANAGE
RS QUAR
TERS:
KITCHEN
BEDROO
M
LIVING RO
OM
BATHRO
OM
PARK OF
FICE:
COVERE
D PORCH
ENTRY
CHECK-I
N DESK
MAINTEN
ANCE/UT
ILITY ROO
M
C. CAMP
ING ARE
A COMFO
RT STATI
ON: (N.I.C
.)
WOMENS
AREA:
3 TOILET
S
2 SINKS
MENS AR
EA:
2 TOILET
1 URINAL
2 SINKS
SANITAR
Y SEWAG
E DESIGN
SPECIFIC
ATIONS
DAILY WA
STEWAT
ER FLOW
RATES:
APPLICA
TION RAT
E
PERC RA
TES OF
8-10 MIN
/INCH
PERC RA
TES OF
11-15 MI
N/INCH
= 0.90 GA
L / DAY /
SF
= 0.80 GA
L / DAY /
SF
WATER S
TORAGE
2 DAY ST
ORAGE T
ANK= 66
60 GAL.
CAMPGR
OUND SI
TE CRITE
RIA
50 TOTA
L CAMPS
ITES
24 WALK-
IN SITES
26 DRIVE
-IN SITES
(4 ADA)
PARKING
SPACES
:
SPACES
AT BATH
HOUSE /
PAVILION
AREA (4
ADA)
(10 OF TH
ESE FOR
WALK-IN
CAMP SIT
ES)
SPACES
AT DRIVE
-IN SITES
SPACES
FOR WAL
K-IN SITE
S
SPACES
AT COMF
ORT STA
TION36
2614
2
SITE LIGH
TING
SEPTIC A
REA # 1:
10 CAMP
SITES X 5
5 GPD PE
R SITE
LAUNDR
Y AND SH
OWERS
PARK MA
NAGER'S
QUARTE
RS
1020 TO
TAL GPD= 38
0 GAL. PE
R DAY
= 550 GA
L. PER DA
Y
= 90 GA
L. PER DA
Y
SEPTIC A
REA # 2:
40 CAMP
SITES X 1
0 GPD PE
R SITE
LIQUID FR
OM CLIVU
S PUMP
420 TO
TAL GPD= 40
0 GAL. PE
R DAY
= 20 GA
L. PER DA
Y
**HAND W
ASHING
ONLY**
(AREA TO
USE COM
POSTING
TOILETS
, NO SHO
WERS, N
O LAUND
RY)
500 DES
IGN CAP
ACITY TO
BE PROV
IDED
WATER S
UPPLY S
PECIFICA
TIONS
CHLORIN
E TREAT
MENT:
SEE DET
AIL 8 ON
SHEET U
-4 FOR CH
LORINE
MIX RAT
E.
SEE DET
AIL 6 ON
SHEET U
-5 FOR P
UMP STA
TION VEL
OCITY CA
LCULATI
ONS
SEE SHE
ET U-1 FO
R SEPTIC
AREA #1
DESIGN
CALCUL
ATIONS
AS WELL
AS PERC
AND DEE
P PIT TES
T DATA
WATER S
OURCE
EXISTING
ON SITE
WELL
= 10 GAL
LONS PE
R MIN
SEE SHE
ET U-3 FO
R SEPTIC
AREA #2
DESIGN
CALCUL
ATIONS
AS WELL
AS PERC
AND DEE
P PIT TES
T DATA
GRAPHIC
SCALE
( IN FEET
)
1 inch =
ft.
0
100
100
100
200
CAMPGROUND FACTS Q Opening Spring 2015 Q 20-minute walk to the Trapps Q $24/night per campsite for members Q $36/night for non-members Q 26 drive-up campsites Q 24 walk-in campsites Q 50 acres Q 6 showers Q Amenities will include fire ring, covered
pavilion, and more
Q Accommodates 60,000 visitors / year Q 5.4 miles to Rock & Snow Q 2 hours to New York City Q 4 hours to Boston
CLIMBING AND MORE IN THE GUNKS: Q Over 1,400 routes, 5.0 to 5.14 Q Over 500 boulder problems Q 7,000 acres in the Mohonk Preserve Q Campground is connected to 30 miles
of carriage roads
The Gunks is world-famous for its climbing, and infamous for its lack of great lodging options. This spring, after 10 years of AAC involvement, the Samuel F. Pryor III Shawangunk Gateway Campground will finally open. So come join us and get ready for hundreds of roof-filled routes high above the Hudson River Valley. Dont forget the tricams! Allie Levy
THE GUNKS CAMPGROUND
30 | MEMBER STORIES
-
Front Ran
ge
Chair Car
ol Kotche
k
american
alpineclub
.org/p/fro
ntrange
frontrang
e@america
nalpinec
lub.org
New Mex
ico
Chair Pat
Gioannin
i
american
alpineclub
.org/p/ne
wmexico
newmex
ico@ame
ricanalpin
eclub.org
Utah
Chair Bla
ke Summe
rs
american
alpineclub
.org/p/ut
ah
utah@am
ericanalp
ineclub.o
rg
Western S
lope
Chair Lee
Jenkins
american
alpineclub
.org/p/we
sternslop
e
westerns
lope@am
ericanalp
ineclub.o
rg
Wyoming
Chair Mic
ah Rush
american
alpineclub
.org/p/or
egon
oregon@
american
alpineclub
.org
FOOT TR
AIL
100%EXPA
NSION AR
EA
PARKING
AREA
(32 STALL
S+ 4 ADA
)BATHHO
USE AND
PAVILION
FOOTING
S AND
FOUNDA
TION (ON
LY)
ACCESS
ROAD HA
S BEEN A
LIGNED W
/ EXISTIN
G
LOGGING
ROAD FO
R MINIMI
ZED SITE
DISTURB
ANCE
DELINEA
TED
WETLAN
D AREA
WALK-IN
CAMPSIT
ES
WALK-IN
CAMPSIT
ES
CAMPSIT
ES WITH
PARKING
PARKING
FOR WAL
K-IN
CAMPSIT
ES
100' STRE
AM
SETBACK
PARKING
FOR
WALK-IN
CAMPSIT
ES
DELINEA
TED
WETLAN
D AREA
SEPTIC AR
EA #1
COMFOR
T STATIO
N
(N.I.C.)
EXISTING
WELL
PARK OF
FICE FOO
TINGS
AND FOU
NDATION
(ONLY)
SECURIT
Y GATE
ENTRANC
E SIGN
RECYCLI
NG CENTE
R
100%EXPA
NSION AR
EA
SEPTIC AR
EA #2
BIORETEN
TION
AREAS
LEGEND
1.SUR
VEY INFO
RMATION
IS FROM
DRAWIN
GS TITLE
D "SITE P
LAN FOR
SHAWAN
GUNK GA
TEWAY
CAMPGR
OUND", P
REPARE
D BY MED
ENBACH
& EGGER
S, DATE
D: JANUA
RY 21, 20
03.
SUPPLEM
ENTAL S
URVEY IN
FORMAT
ION INCL
UDING IN
DIVIDUA
L TREE L
OCATION
S AND CE
NTER
LINE OF
LOGGING
ROAD, W
ERE OBT
AINED BY
FIELD SU
RVEYS C
ONDUCT
ED BY PIP
C STAFF
FROM
APRIL 20
07 TO PR
ESENT.
2.CON
TRACTO
R SHALL
ENSURE
THAT AL
L REQUIR
ED PERM
ITS AND/O
R APPRO
VALS FOR
THE
WORK HA
VE BEEN
OBTAINE
D PRIOR
TO BEGIN
NING OF
CONSTR
UCTION.
THERE S
HALL BE
NO
ADDITIO
NAL COS
TS ADDE
D TO THE
CONTRA
CT IF CON
STRUCT
ION IS D
ELAYED I
N THE
PROCES
SING AND
OBTAINI
NG OF AL
L PERMIT
S.
3.ALL
SEDIMEN
TATION &
EROSION
CONTRO
L DEVICE
S SHALL
BE INSTA
LLED AND
FULLY
FUNCTIO
NAL PRI
OR TO CO
NSTRUC
TION ACT
IVITIES.
ALL ERO
SION CON
TROL DE
VICES SH
ALL BE
MAINTAIN
ED THRO
UGHOUT
THE DUR
ATION OF
THE CON
TRACT, A
S DEPICT
ED WITHIN
THE
DETAILS
, AND PE
R INSTR
UCTION
OF THE D
IRECTOR
'S REPRE
SENTATI
VE DURIN
G CONST
RUCTION
ACTIVITI
ES.
4.CLE
AR AND R
EMOVE O
NLY THO
SE EXIST
ING TRE
ES, SHRU
BS, AND V
EGETATI
ON WHICH
LIE
WITHIN TH
E IMMED
IATE CON
STRUCT
ION ARE
AS, AS RE
VIEWED A
ND APPR
OVED B
Y THE
DIRECTO
R'S REPR
ESENTA
TIVE. ALL
TREES (
OVER 6"
CALIPER
) MARKE
D FOR RE
MOVAL (U
SING
SURVEY
RIBBON
) BY CON
TRACTO
R SHALL
BE REVIE
WED AND
APPROV
ED BY DI
RECTOR
S
REPRES
ENTATIV
E. ALL T
REES, BR
USH, AN
D VEGET
ATION SL
ATED FO
R REMOV
AL SHAL
L BE
CHIPPED
AND REM
OVED OF
F-SITE BY
THE CON
TRACTO
R. ALL L
ARGE ST
ONES WI
LL BE
STOCKP
ILED FOR
FUTURE
USE.
5.AFTE
R CLEAR
ING AND
GRUBBIN
G, CONT
RACTOR
SHALL S
TRIP AND
REMOVE
ALL EXIS
TING
TOPSOIL
FROM AR
EAS SLA
TED TO
BE CUT O
R FILLED
, AND ST
OCKPILE
THIS MAT
ERIAL WH
ERE
SHOWN
ON THE P
LANS. A
LL STOC
KPILED M
ATERIAL
SHALL B
E TEMPO
RARILY S
TABILIZE
D BY
SEEDING
OR COV
ERING, W
HILE ALS
O BEING
SURROU
NDED BY
A SILT F
ENCE. D
IRECTOR
'S
REPRES
ENTATIV
E MUST A
PPROVE
SEED MI
X.
6.PRO
TECTION
OF EXIS
TING VEG
ETATION
TO REM
AIN SHA
LL REMA
IN ESSE
NTIAL TH
ROUGHO
UT
THE DUR
ATION OF
THE CON
TRACT.
THE CON
TRACTO
R SHALL
STRICTL
Y ADHER
E TO THE
FOLLOW
ING PRO
CEDURE
S TOWAR
DS PROT
ECTION
OF EXIST
ING TRE
ES AND T
HEIR ROO
T
SYSTEM
S:
A.ALL
EXISTING
VEGETA
TION SCH
EDULED
TO REM
AIN SHA
LL BE PR
OTECTE
D AS
ILLUSTR
ATED W
ITHIN THE
PLANS A
ND AS NO
TED BEL
OW.
B.ABS
OLUTELY
NO MEC
HANICAL
OPERAT
ION SHA
LL TAKE
PLACE O
UTSIDE
OF THE
CONSTR
UCTION
LIMITS U
NLESS A
UTHORIZ
ED BY TH
E DIREC
TOR'S RE
PRESEN
TATIVE.
C.THE
RE SHAL
L BE NO
STOCKP
ILING OF
TOPSOIL
, STORAG
E OF MAT
ERIALS O
R EQUIPM
ENT
OUTSIDE
THE CON
STRUCT
ION LIMI
TS THRO
UGHOUT
THE ENT
IRE DUR
ATION OF
THE
CONTRA
CT.
7.DIST
ANCE FR
OM LEAC
H FIELD T
O PROPE
RTY LINE
S SHOWN
ON SHE
ETS U-1
AND U-3.
8.WEL
L LOCAT
IONS ON
ADJOININ
G PROPE
RTIES EX
CEED D.
O.H. STA
NDARDS
. DISTAN
CES ARE
TO
DISTANT
TO BE S
HOWN ON
SITE PLA
N.
414
414
WALK-IN
SITES: (2
4)
DRIVE-IN
SITES: (2
6)
ACCESS
IBLE DRI
VE-IN SI
TES:
CAMPGR
OUND AC
CESS RO
AD (GRA
VEL)
PEDEST
RIAN ACC
ESS TRA
IL (NATU
RAL)
UTILITY P
OLE
PROPER
TY LINE
PROPOS
ED CONT
OURS
EXISTING
CONTOU
RS
TENT PA
D
PICNIC TA
BLE
SITE SIG
NAGE
PROPOS
ED BUILD
INGS
POTABLE
WATER L
OCATION
W
GENERA
L NOTES
:
SLOPED
BOULDE
R WALLS
A. BATH
HOUSE/P
AVILION:
(FOOTIN
GS & FOU
NDATION
ONLY)
CAMPGR
OUND ST
RUCTUR
ES
WOMEN'S
AREA:
3 TOILET
S
3 SINKS
2 SHOWE
RS
MEN'S AR
EA:
2 TOILET
S
1 URINAL
2 SINKS
2 SHOWE
RS
MECHAN
ICAL ROO
M:
HOT WAT
ER HEAT
ER
POTABLE
WATER T
REATME
NT SYST
EM
ADA UNI
SEX ACC
ESSIBLE
AREA:
2 TOILET
S
2 SINKS
2 SHOWE
RS
LAUNDR
Y AREA:
2 WASHE
R/ 2 DRY
ER UNITS
2 UTILITY
SINKS W
/ COUNT
ER
PAVILION
:
30' X 32' A
REA - AT
TACHED
TO BAT
HHOUSE
B. PARK
OFFICE
/ MANAG
ERS QUA
RTERS:
(FOOTING
S & FOUN
DATION
ONLY)
MANAGE
RS QUAR
TERS:
KITCHEN
BEDROO
M
LIVING RO
OM
BATHRO
OM
PARK OF
FICE:
COVERE
D PORCH
ENTRY
CHECK-I
N DESK
MAINTEN
ANCE/UT
ILITY ROO
M
C. CAMP
ING ARE
A COMFO
RT STATI
ON: (N.I.C
.)
WOMENS
AREA:
3 TOILET
S
2 SINKS
MENS AR
EA:
2 TOILET
1 URINAL
2 SINKS
SANITAR
Y SEWAG
E DESIGN
SPECIFIC
ATIONS
DAILY WA
STEWAT
ER FLOW
RATES:
APPLICA
TION RAT
E
PERC RA
TES OF
8-10 MIN
/INCH
PERC RA
TES OF
11-15 MI
N/INCH
= 0.90 GA
L / DAY /
SF
= 0.80 GA
L / DAY /
SF
WATER S
TORAGE
2 DAY ST
ORAGE T
ANK= 66
60 GAL.
CAMPGR
OUND SI
TE CRITE
RIA
50 TOTA
L CAMPS
ITES
24 WALK-
IN SITES
26 DRIVE
-IN SITES
(4 ADA)
PARKING
SPACES
:
SPACES
AT BATH
HOUSE /
PAVILION
AREA (4
ADA)
(10 OF TH
ESE FOR
WALK-IN
CAMP SIT
ES)
SPACES
AT DRIVE
-IN SITES
SPACES
FOR WAL
K-IN SITE
S
SPACES
AT COMF
ORT STA
TION36
2614
2
SITE LIGH
TING
SEPTIC A
REA # 1:
10 CAMP
SITES X 5
5 GPD PE
R SITE
LAUNDR
Y AND SH
OWERS
PARK MA
NAGER'S
QUARTE
RS
1020 TO
TAL GPD= 38
0 GAL. PE
R DAY
= 550 GA
L. PER DA
Y
= 90 GA
L. PER DA
Y
SEPTIC A
REA # 2:
40 CAMP
SITES X 1
0 GPD PE
R SITE
LIQUID FR
OM CLIVU
S PUMP
420 TO
TAL GPD= 40
0 GAL. PE
R DAY
= 20 GA
L. PER DA
Y
**HAND W
ASHING
ONLY**
(AREA TO
USE COM
POSTING
TOILETS
, NO SHO
WERS, N
O LAUND
RY)
500 DES
IGN CAP
ACITY TO
BE PROV
IDED
WATER S
UPPLY S
PECIFICA
TIONS
CHLORIN
E TREAT
MENT:
SEE DET
AIL 8 ON
SHEET U
-4 FOR CH
LORINE
MIX RAT
E.
SEE DET
AIL 6 ON
SHEET U
-5 FOR P
UMP STA
TION VEL
OCITY CA
LCULATI
ONS
SEE SHE
ET U-1 FO
R SEPTIC
AREA #1
DESIGN
CALCUL
ATIONS
AS WELL
AS PERC
AND DEE
P PIT TES
T DATA
WATER S
OURCE
EXISTING
ON SITE
WELL
= 10 GAL
LONS PE
R MIN
SEE SHE
ET U-3 FO
R SEPTIC
AREA #2
DESIGN
CALCUL
ATIONS
AS WELL
AS PERC
AND DEE
P PIT TES
T DATA
GRAPHIC
SCALE
( IN FEET
)
1 inch =
ft.
0
100
100
100
200
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 31
-
a [Top Left] Cheyne Lempe teaches clinic participants the art of self-rescue during the 2014 Fall Highball Craggin Classic in Bishop, CA. b AAC member Jeff Rueppel [Top Right] Climber pinches the pebbles on Pop Goes the Nubbin (5.10a), 2014 Smith Rock Craggin Classic, OR. b AAC member Luke Humphrey [Bottom] 2014 Salt Lake City Craggin Classic crew, UT. b AAC member Mike Schirf
presented by
Our popular climbing festivals combine all things AAC: cragging, socializing, clinics, stewardship, and more. Every year, AAC communities around the country host a number of Craggin Classics at popular climbing destinations. Find the one closest to you and put it on your calendar!
32 | MEMBER STORIES
-
a [Top] Volunteers head out for the annual Buttermilk Adopt-a-Crag, the stewardship aspect of the AACs Fall Highball Craggin Classic in Bishop, CA. b AAC member Blake McCord [Bottom] Zoe Strnad hucking for the finish hold during the dyno comp at the 2014 New River Gorge Craggin Classic, WV. b AAC member Gabe DeWitt
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH, AUG. 28-30 < SMITH ROCK, OREGON, SEPT. 4-6 < NORTH CONWAY, NEW HAMPSHIRE, SEPT. 11-15 < NEW RIVER GORGE, WEST VIRGINIA, SEPT. 18-20 < DEVILS LAKE, WISCONSIN, OCT. 16-18 < SHELF ROAD, COLORADO, OCT. 31-NOV. 1 < BISHOP, CALIFORNIA, NOV. 6-8 < GUNKS,
NEW YORK, TBD FALL 2015 < HUECO ROCK RODEO, EL PASO, TEXAS, FEB. 13-15
2015 CRAGGIN CLASS IC SERIES
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 33
-
I struggled to keep my feet wedged inside the crack. Sweaty hands. Heavy breathing. Indian Creeks legendary splitters were proving even more challenging than I had imagined in the months leading up to the International Climbers Meet in 2008. Even though the brunt of my climbing experience had been on granite faces, I considered myself a decent crack climber, having climbed 5.11 cracks in Argentina and Canada. But in the Creek the long, sandstone splitters are unforgivingthere are few face holds, the rock crumbles as you try to smear, and attempting to lieback is nothing but a great way to pump out.
Luckily for me, things changed. On the second day of the meet, I met Kitty Calhoun. An accomplished mountaineer and talented crack climber, Kitty was one of several host climbers. And, for some unknown reason, she decided to take me under her wing for the remainder of the week.
Determined to help me improve my technique, Kitty patiently shared her knowledge and skills. She guided me through the world of crack climbing, taking me from route to route to practice on a variety of crack sizes and jamsfeet, toes, hands, fists, arms.
By the end of the week, Kittys efforts paid off. As we approached Slot
Machine (5.12a), a never-ending, tight-hands crack in the back of an acute dihedral, I even considered leading the route. I climbed smoothly, cruising one jam at a time. After 140 feet, I reached Kitty at the anchors, arms pumped and left knee bruised from jamming my body into the corner, a huge grin on my face.
Three years later I returned to the ICM, this time in Yosemite, where I found a few familiar faces from the Creek, including Jim Donini and George Lowe. In the Creek, simply watching them climb and hearing their stories had been an inspiration, but in 2011, I had the opportunity to share a rope with George up the East Buttress of El Cap. As we climbed, I learned tricks to move efficiently on long routes. But more
importantly, I realized how lucky I am to count him, and so many other ICM climbers, among my friends.
And in the fall of 2014, like an addict, I returned to the ICM in Yosemite once more. There, I fought my way up an off-width crack during a clinic
held by Cory Fleagle, and I had the chance to give back to the Club by teaching a wilderness first aid clinic.
The ICM is the perfect reminder that its never about the grade you climb, or even what routes you get onits all about having fun, learning, teaching, and making connections with good people from around the world on your way up.
A BELAYAROUND THE WORLDBY SAM CHU, PHOTOS BY ALTON RICHARDSON
34 | MEMBER STORIES
-
a [This Page, Top] The author demonstrates how to fashion a splint for a broken ankle while in the backcountry. [This Page, Bottom Left] Scott Dyer makes the final moves on the two-pitch Munginella (5.6). [This Page, Bottom Right] Simon Sandavol fist bumps photographer Alton Richardson after sending the Sacher-Cracker (5.10a), a notoriously hard crack. [Opposing Page] ICM participants approach the Sentinel Creek area during the first day of group cragging. b AAC member Alton Richardson
ICM 2014 , YOSEMITE
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 35
-
Q: Why woodcuts?
A: I have this wonderful photo of John Bachar on Midnight
Lightning, taken by Phil Bard. Its one of my most cherished
photos, as John is one of my climbing heroes. I drew it out as a 5
stencil, cut it, and sprayed it above the back door of my familys
restaurant, where there was this thin crack that ran to the roof. Thats where it began.
I did that again with the image of John cut out of cardboard and
placed him above a small vent grate, with a few spotters below
him. It created a scene and utilized more of the environment.
Ultimately, woodcuts were more sturdy than cardboard.
Q: Do you have a favorite climbing-inspired piece that youve done?
A: Not exactly. Each woodcut I create has its own story and personal connection, and then I do my best to place it in a way thats believable and correct. Whether its climbing a crack in a
cement wall, topping out on a window ledge, or dynoing to a
shadow, as long as theres truth in the sequenceone that leaves
the viewer (especially fellow climbers) anticipating what happens
nextthen Im happy.
Q: One of your pieces was featured in the 2014 American Alpine Journal. Have you ever used the AAJ to get inspiration or information for a climb?
A: I dipped into the AAC archives a lot when I was editor-in-
chief of Urban Climber Magazine. Truth be told, Im a boulderer through and through, but I take inspiration from all disciplines
of climbing. Im also fanatical about history, and the AAJ has been a great resource.
Q: Has climbing influenced how you view the world?
A: Absolutely. Climbers view nature differently, much the same
way a skateboarder views architecture differently. For us to
distinguish a sequence in a piece of rock, to stand at its base
and visualize a definite line to get from point A to point B, is
pretty remarkable. Its creativity. Through observation of details
and applying technique, a climb is formed. Most wouldnt get it,
but its there and we see it. I approach my street works with the same pair of glasses.
WOOD & STEELAN INTERVIEW WITH JOE IURATO
36 | MEMBER STORIES
-
Joe grew up with the constant rhythm
of his fathers printing press running
in the basement. But art was not the only major impression on his early
life15 years ago he fell in love
with climbing at the Gunks. Today
Joes wood-cut artwork, inspired
by climbing, has gained significant
attention from the art world.
ABOUT THE
ARTIST
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 37
-
38 | MEMBER STORIES
-
a Amy Futch rappels from the top of Table Rock, NC. AAC member Eric Cox
The news of a climbers death sends shock waves slamming
through family, friends, and the climbing community. A cycle of
denial and grief follows. Eventually most mourners arrive at a
level of acceptance. At that point, the opportunity emerges to
initiate a constructive response to tragedy.
In July 2012, Eric Metcalf, a 19-year-old climber making his
transition from gym to crag, died in a rappelling accident on
the Sentinel Buttress of Moores Wall, a popular trad area in North Carolina.
Several days after a moving memorial service, three
members of the AACs Southern Appalachian SectionDanny
McCracken, Aram Attarian, and myselfmet for burritos and
resolved to improve knowledge of rappelling practices in
hopes of reducing accidents. We debated whether to forward
a proposal to the Club office for consideration, or actively build
a program ourselves using AAC section resources.
By the time the last burrito wrapper had hit the trash can, our confidence in the power of grassroots initiatives had carried
the day. With the AACs support, we launched a series of local,
free clinics designed for experienced climbers. I served as
project manager, and Danny and Aram, both AMGA certified
instructors, taught rappelling tips and tricks along with
best practices. For content we turned to Know the Ropes:
Rappelling, an educational primer in the 2012 edition of
Accidents in North American Mountaineering.
After completing two pilot classes, we were confident that
the clinic was ready for prime time. By the end of 2014, with
help from a terrific team of AAC volunteers, our Southern
Appalachian Section had delivered over 25 clinics to climbers
throughout the Southeastern U.S. An additional five clinics
have been offered in other regions. Our commitment has been
to the entire climbing community, not just AAC members, and
more than 250 climbers have attended so far. Danny, Aram,
and I believe that our project serves as a solid example of
what motivation, initiative, and commitment of volunteers and
industry partners can accomplish. And in honor of Eric, we will continue to offer clinics and expand the program.
LEARNINGFROM TRAGEDY
BY DAVID THOENEN
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 39
-
My head was light as I gazed out over the endless spines of Karakoram giants, picking out K2, Broad Peak, and the
Gasherbrums scraping against the bluebird sky. We had just made the first ascent of Saser Kangri II, the second-
tallest unclimbed mountain in the world.
What incredible fortune: a team of friends, a virgin 7,500-meter peak, an absolutely perfect day. It was surreal.
The joy was short-lived. I could hardly breathe when Mark gave me a celebratory squeeze on the summit. I was
suffering a relapse of the sinus infection I had been fighting for the previous month and felt weak. We descended
to high camp, and I spent a sleepless night sitting in the doorway of the tent coughing and hacking up phlegm into
the snow.
The next day it took over 30 rappels to get from high camp to the South Shukpa Kunchang glacier, where we arrived
at our skis a couple hours after dark. We eventually found our camp on the glacier, and it was after midnight when
we went to bed. I was exhausted and still feeling poorly, but I didnt realize at the time just how serious my condition
would become.
At 3 a.m. I woke up coughing. The mucus had become so thick from dehydration that it was getting stuck in my
trachea, and I was choking on it. I knew I was in trouble so I woke Mark from his hard-earned sleep. After watching
one of my coughing and choking sessions he realized the severity of the situation. Mark woke Freddie, and they
made a call to a doctor friend who confirmed that I could choke to death on my own mucus. They decided to
evacuate.
Mark communicated our position and situation to Global Rescue, Rimo Expeditions in Leh, and his wife Teresa, who was also in Leh. They contacted the Indian government and started the complex process to obtain approval for an
Indian Air Force helicopter to carry out the evacuation. They had never landed a helicopter on this glacier before.
I was frightened, and it was hard not to panic each time I coughed and had to clear a new airway. Freddie tried
to calm me down. Were learning how to manage this situation as we go along, Steve. Youre going to be OK. He
and Mark built a chair in the snow so I could sit outside and be more comfortable. And our Indian team members Thinless, Dhan Singh, Tashi, Tshering, and Pemba would take turns lifting me up every time I started coughing to
open my diaphragm. They boiled tea for me, and after several hours of rehydration I finally coughed up the bulk of
the thick phlegm and was able to breathe more freely. But I was still sick, exhausted, and weak.
Around 4 p.m. two Indian Air Force helicopters appeared over the glacier and one landed on the pad Freddie had
stomped out in the snow. Thinless and Dahn Singh helped me to the chopper. Within an hour we had touched down
in Leh where Teresa accompanied me to the hospital.
Im very grateful for my friends and rescuers who saved my life. No matter how thoroughly you prepare, you can
never plan for everything, and as climbers there is always another lesson to learn.
LIFELINE BY STEVE SWENSON
a Steve Swenson rescued off the South Shukpa Kunchang glacier. Stills from The Old Breed, filmed, edited, and produced by AAC members.
40 | MEMBER STORIES
-
I have told more than one friend that the American Alpine Club Library is half the reason Im an AAC member, and Im not lying.
Theoretically, I go to the library for work reasonsI write about the outdoors and climbing regularly, and need to research routes, climbing areas, biographies, and history. But more often than not, I find two hours of
research stretching into four hours or more, as I get distracted by a book on the shelf, then another one, plop down on the floor, and several
minutes later, glance at my watch to see how late its gotten. A biography of Riccardo Cassin, a guidebook to the South Platte, or plaisir climbs in the Swiss Alps who knew Iowa State University had a mountaineering club in the 60s, let alone a journal? Ive never climbed in the Adirondacks, or Utahs West Desert, or the Dolomitesbut maybe
I should take a few minutes and thumb through these guidebooks.
As climbers, we know how to focus, or even fixate,
on single ideas: that 80-foot bolted route in our
backyard that we have wired except for the crux move, or the line we watch for years hoping this will be the year it comes in fat enough to climb in October, or the crimp on a boulder we might
be able to hang onto on our 50th try. We spend
years, decades, or lifetimes outside trying to do climbing. The library is the place I go to further try to understand climbing: why I do it, why its
different in different places, why other people
have always done it, how its changing, and where else in the world I should go to do it next year or the year after.
I have given the library the nickname The Dream Room, and as I research articles Im writing, I add to the never-ending list of places to see before I die: mountains a thousand miles or an ocean
away, crags on magic islands halfway around the world, traverses that have been done once or a thousand times, through-hikes that sound like a great weeklong or monthlong way to get away from everything.
There are dozens of reasons to be an AAC member, of course. But one of the most important, to me, is a room in the basement of the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO, holding the stories, records, photos, and maps of the collective thousands of years of international mountaineering experience weve amassed ever since we started walking into the big hills to see what was up there.
THE DREAM ROOMBY BRENDAN LEONARD
b AAC member Hilary Oliver
-
Think you spend a lot of time on the road? Eric Peterson, 46, and Matt Hopkins, 28, have you beat with a collective 225,000 miles under their belts just last year. These nomadic climbers have figured out how to make the most of getting paid to road trip in their semis.
Eric first connected with Matt after seeing his expedition to Aconcagua featured in a trucking magazine. Since then, Eric, who transports specialized, oversize equipment, and Matt, who hauls cattle, have met up in Colorado, Montana, and beyond to take some
time off the road and get out climbing. Allie Levy
BIG RIGSTO BIG WALLS
44 | MEMBER STORIES
-
a Matt Hopkins goes for the first ascent of Cattle Crates (M00). Brian Smith/High Mountain Photography for Overdrive Magazine
1. Dirtbagging, or trucking, is no excuse for poor hygiene. You can find showers for a few dollars
at any truck stop. You never know who you might meet, or when you might be sharing a ride to the airport with Conrad Anker.
2. Never get caught unprepared. Whether in your rig or on a climb, always bring a jug of water, some snacks, andof coursea Restop bag.
3. Always have an alternate mode of transportation, be it a mountain bike, a pair of rollerblades, a skateboard, or a donkey. If you break down, make sure you have a way out.
4. Be friendly. See a guy wearing Five Ten approach shoes and a Patagonia Nano Air, with a BD Hoodwire on his key chain? Strike up a conversationhe could be your next climbing partner.
5. If you miss your exit, dont slam on the brakes. Keep going. You never know what you might find around
the next bend.
ERIC AND MATT S T IPS FOR DIRTBAGGING LIKE A PRO
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 45
-
Glen Dawson made a name for himself when he and his team pioneered the east face of Mt. Whitney. The year: 1931.
Born in 1913, Glen has been a member of the AAC
since 1933, making him the oldest living member
of the Club. A WWII soldier in the Tenth Mountain
Division, lifetime antiquarian bookseller, publisher,
and mountaineer, Glen tells stories of the Good Old Days when climbing meant charting territory
completely unknown to man. The gear he used in his
circa-1930 climbs was comparable to that exhibited
in the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering
Museum, from the days of hobnailed boots and hemp ropes. When the man talks, you listen, hoping
to catch a glimpse of The West that John Muir was
talking about. Kaitlin Sullivan
MEMORIES : GLEN DAWSON
Ansel Adams accompanied me on the 1929 High Trip to Tuolumne Meadows. He was my climbing partner, Jules Eichorns, piano teacher at the time. It was during the 1934 High Trip along Sawtooth Ridge that we [Dawson, Jack Riegelhuth, Ted Waller] named a peak after Adams: Mt. Ansel
Adams, about 12,000 feet.
19 13G D
46 | MEMBER STORIES
-
My first notable climb was the first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Whitney. Jules
Eichorn and I were 19 years old and just did what we were told, with Robert
Underhill and Norman Clyde leading. It only took us three-and-a-quarter
hours.
I accredit Francis Farquhar as the climber who had the greatest impact on me
as a young climber. He suggested that I apply for [AAC] membershipin those
days you had to apply. I applied and was accepted. The home of Francis and Marjory Farquhar was the place for regular gatherings of people interested in
climbing. There were refreshments or a meal. There was a book discussion or
a talk and informal questions and answers.
I was leader of the trip up the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney. It was 1937, and
it was my ideaI picked the participants. As I remember, I only made it once, though it is my favorite climb. But if I could revisit one climb, it would be the
Mt. Fuji trip in 1936. The trail had big stones. A lot of people, including school
children, were passing me, and I was passing them. I was by myself, and I
enjoyed the people. It was a noted peak, and I enjoyed the feeling it gave me.
Originally the goal of climbing was to get to the top of a certain point. Then
it was to scale difficult routes or make a traverse from one peak to another.
a [Top Left] Glen Dawson leaps a gorge at Stoney Point during a photo shoot for a Lipton Tea advertisement, 1937. Bill Rice (left) and Muir Dawson (right) look on. Howard Gate courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives [Top Right] Portrait of a teenage Glen Dawson taken by Ansel Adams. Courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives [Middle] Climbing party the day after first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Whitney, August 16, 1931. Left to Right: Jules Eichorn, Norman Clyde, Robert L. M. Underhill, Glen Dawson. Francis Farquhar courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives [Bottom] Members of the party who made the first ascent of the East Buttress route on Mt. Whitney, September 5, 1937. Front row, Left to Right: Dick Jones, Muir Dawson, Glen Dawson. Back row, Left to Right: Bob Brinton, Howard Koster. George Shochat courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 47
-
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on Mt. McKinley.
100% HANDCRAFTED IN EUROPE
To see the entire 2015 line of LOWA Boots, visit www.lowaboots.com
EXPEDITION 8000 EVO RD WEISSHORN GTX MOUNTAIN EXPERT GTX EVO CEVEDALE PRO GTX RED EAGLE - LACE
GORE-TEX, GTX, GORE, and GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY and design are registered trademarks of W.L. Gore & Associates Inc. VIBRAM, the Octagon Logo, and the Yellow Octagon Logo and the color Canary Yellow are registered trademarks of Vibram S.p.A. 2015 LOWA Boots, LLC.
A history of alpinism firsts by LOWA athletes is testament to our passion for the craft of boot-making and the mountains that we love.> Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Everest> Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the first woman to summit all 8K meter peaks without supplemental oxygen> Ines Papert, who continues to reach new heights in ice/mixed, rock and alpine climbing, including three World Cup Overall titles and four World Championships
By Alpinists. For Alpinists. Since 1923.
For over 90 years, weve been crafting alpine boots that deliver the highest possible degree of fit, comfort and performance.
LOWA_AAC_2015_Final.indd 1 1/29/15 3:10 PM
-
BETA < TABLE OF CONTENTS
2014 ANNUAL REPORTI hope youll agree that the Club today is more active, relevant, and present in your life. Our position is financially sound and poised to deliver even more value to
both members and the climbing community writ large. Thank you for being a part of this success. Phil Powers, AAC Chief Executive Officer
A FEW 2014 HIGHLIGHTS
Q $5.7MM Campaign for Climbers completed! Q Fundraising revenue +13% over 2013 Q Membership revenue +18% over 2013
Q Began construction on Gunks Campground Q Launched online Member Share network Q Deepened commitment to climbing education
Read the entire report at americanalpineclub.org/p/2014-annual-report.
2014 ANNUAL REPORT
MEMBERSHIP GREAT RANGES FELLOWSHIP
GET INVOLVED
DISCOUNTS
PUBLICAT IONS EXPLORE L IBRARYMUSEUM PROFILE LOCAL DISCOUNTS
RESCUE GRANTS
2014 GRANTS
DONORS
PARTNERS
CORPORATE PARTNERS
BOARD STAFF
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
58
59
60
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 49
-
JO IN THE COMMUNITY
Together, we share a passion for climbing. When you join the AAC, youre part of a tribe thats making a big difference. We support each other with rescue
insurance, critical lodging facilities, conservation projects, advocacy, grants, discounts, and more.
MEMBERS ON AUTO-RENEW SAVE $10 PER YEAR.
The Great Ranges Fellowship brings our donor-members together with exclusive events and trips, timely insider communications, extra benefits, and
access to staff and officials like never before. At the AAC we value every giftno matter its size. In recognition of our most generous donors, weve created
this program.
Visit americanalpineclub.org/join or call 303-384-0110 and press 0.
REGULAR: $80/YEARMembers ages 29-65.
JUNIOR: $45/YEARMembers ages 28 and younger.
SENIOR: $55/YEARMembers ages 66 and older.
JOINT: $135/YEARFor two climbers: partners, spouses, residents of the same van, whatever. Both members get AAC benefits,
but we send only one set of publications and mailings to keep it eco-friendlyand wallet-friendly.
LIFETIME MEMBERSHIP LIFETIME $2,500 LIFETIME JOINT $4,000Show your dedication to the climbing community and support your fellow members and climbers for life.
Dues are permanently waived after this one-time payment. Benefits forever!
MEMBERSHIP
GREAT RANGES FELLOWSHIP
The Great Ranges Fellowship provides consistent benefits, recognition,
and communication to donors at various levels. We strive to be inclusive
of all climbing disciplines and recognize that all climbers have different
charitable interests and capacities of support. Most gifts qualify toward
annual membership in the GRF including those directed toward key
operating programs such as the American Alpine Journal, Accidents in North American Mountaineering, The American Alpine Club Library, the AAC Grand Teton Climbers Ranch, and AAC grant programs. The program does not
include Corporate Partners, Media Partners, or fiduciary programs such
as expedition support.
POWERED BY:
Great Ranges Fellowship member benefits include all regular AAC
member benefits plus:
Q VIP invitations to a variety of events in your area and around the nation Q Exclusive and timely communications regarding key Club issues Q Invitations to exclusive AAC climbing trips annually Q Regular annual AAC membership (beginning at your current exp. date)
TEEWINOT FELLOW $1,000 Q Exclusive Great Ranges Fellowship jacket Q Recognition in the American Alpine Journal Q Recognition in the Guidebook to Membership Q Subscription to Alpinist magazine Q Inclusion in the Fellowship Updates email notices
ROBSON FELLOW $2,500 Q All the benefits of Teewinot Fellow, plus: Q Invitation for two to VIP Reception at the Annual Benefit Dinner with
purchase of ticketsALPAMAYO FELLOW $5,000
Q All the benefits of Robson Fellow, plus: Q A special hardcover edition of the American Alpine Journal Q Two AAC gift memberships to share with your friends and family
EIGER FELLOW $10,000 Q All the benefits of Alpamayo Fellow, plus: Q Two additional (four total) invitations to VIP Reception at the Annual
Benefit Dinner with purchase of tickets
Q Two additional (four total) AAC gift memberships to share with your friends and family
Learn more at americanalpineclub.org/p/great-ranges-fellowship.
50 | BETA
-
GET INVOLVEDHOW TO GIVE
Your tax-deductible gift to the American Alpine Club helps members
and volunteers pursue the mission and core programs of the Club.
From conservation to competency, your donation will work to protect
the climbing experience for years to come. Options for giving include
a one-time gift, monthly giving program, matched gift, planned giving,
stock donation, combined federal campaign, or Great Ranges Fellowship
contribution.
Visit americanalpineclub.org/p/give or email us at [email protected] to give or learn about your preferred method of
support.
HOW TO VOLUNTEER
We are always looking for people to help out in a number of ways,
including volunteering at member parties, tabling at local climbing gyms,
sitting on a committee, or helping with larger regional events like the
Annual Benefit Dinner or Craggin Classic Series.
Contact your Regional Manager to get involved:
NORTHWEST REGIONEddie [email protected]
WESTERN REGIONJeff Deikis
ROCKIES & CENTRAL REGIONSAdam [email protected]
NORTHEAST & SOUTHEAST REGIONSLisa [email protected]
MEMBER SHARE
Your new profile is a place to connect with fellow climbers and meet up,
whether theyre near or far. You can now:
Q find a climbing partner Q find a couch to sleep on during your next climbing trip Q discover local discounts Q sync up your Mountain Project profile Q and much more!
To access Member Share, login to your profile at americanalpineclub.org/
login using the email address and password you created when joining.
REFERRALS
The more members we have, the better we can fulfill our missionso
please invite your friends and family to join our ranks. Not only will your
friends get access to AAC benefits when they sign up, but youll also earn
rewards for referring them.
Login to your profile at profile.americanalpineclub.org/invitations for more information and to access your personalized invites.
SOCIAL MEDIA
Facebook: facebook.com/AmericanAlpineClubTwitter: twitter.com/americanalpineInstagram: instagram.com/americanalpine
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 51
-
Q Abel Reels Q Adventure Medical Kits Q Airblaster Q Asana Q Barebones Q Beacon Audio Q Big Agnes Q BlueCosmo Satellite
Communications
Q Braven Q Bully Dog Q Burley Q Competitive Cyclist Q Crosstac
Q Deadfall Q DeFeet Q DeLorme Q Dogfunk Q Dublin Dog Q Endevr Q Evolv Q Fighter Design Q First Light USA Q Fox Head Q Gaerne Cycling Q Gnarly Q Gregory Packs Q GU Energy Gel
Q Icebreaker Q iClimb.com Q Insta-Bed Q Julbo Q Kammock Q Kelty Q Klean Kanteen Q Kurgo Q Light and Motion Q Minus33 Q Montrail Q Mountain Khakis Q NEMO Equipment Q Ninja Suit
Q Ortlieb Q Pivothead Q Rave Sports Q Red Wing Q RMU Q Rock-Slide Engineering Q Rockwell Q Selkbag Q Sharp End Publishing Q Sierra Designs Q Sierra Designs Q Slacklines Industries Q Slumberjack
Q Smith & Wesson Flashlights
Q Superfeet Q Suunto Q Swiftwick Q Teqtronix Q Top of the World Books Q Ultimate Direction Q Vigilante Q Y&Y Belay Goggles USA Q Zamberlan Q Zeal Optics
FEATURED MEMBER GEAR DISCOUNTS *
FEATURED ONLINE RETAILERS *
ADDIT IONAL DISCOUNTS *
MAGAZINES *
*Member discounts are subject to change. Discount percentages listed are approximations and may not apply to every product. Though we try to provide you with accurate information, we cannot guarantee you will receive the discount rates listed here or on our website.
**Restrictions may apply.
10-30% off**
PMS 647c c100 m56 y0 k23r0 g86 b149
90% BLACK
100% WHITE
20% off**
20% off 20% off 20% off
AAC ONLINE STORE
20% off 20% off, apparel only40% off 25% off
$15 off orders of $75+**$10 off when you sign up through the AAC
Spend $75+ and get a free webolette
$10 free when you sign up through the AAC
1 year, 4 issues, $29.95 1 year, 8 issues, $9.95 1 year,10 issues, $12.951 year, 9 issues, $9.99 & a free gift:
Classic Trails digital booklet
DISCOUNTSAccess via americanalpineclub.org/discounts.
52 | BETA
-
BETAPUBLICAT IONS
Print copies of the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering are included as part of your membership each summer. Digital editions of the books are available through your online profile.
Members may opt out of receiving print copies of AAC publications by
visiting their account settings at profile.americanalpineclub.org. To search any article ever published in the American Alpine Journal or Accidents, visit publications.americanalpineclub.org.
AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNALPublished annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest publication of its kindit documents the worlds
most significant climbs. The AAJ delivers feature stories and detailed route information covering the years most cutting-edge ascents, big new
routes, and unexplored potential.
ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERINGTo be more prepared for our adventures, the AAC publishes Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Our goal is to record the most notable climbing accidents of the year and analyze what went wrong. We hope
this service helps you learn from the mistakes of others, come home
safely, and climb again tomorrow.
EXPLORE
Explore is a community resource that shares the AACs special and digital
collections online. For more than a century, the Club has collected letters,
diaries, photographs, gear, and other material that give vital and unique
information about our communitys history and culture. Until recently these archives could only be seen by visiting the AAC in Golden, CO.
Today you can access thousands of artifactsand the stories behind themonline.
Check it out at explore.americanalpineclub.org and please consider contributing your own digital resources to our growing collection.
L IBRARY
The Henry S. Hall Jr. American Alpine Club Library, located in Golden, CO,
provides you with all the information you could ever want on mountain
culture and climbing routes. Our staff and volunteers are happy to assist
with research and trip planning. Our collection of over 50,000 books and
videos is always growing.
Q Bookmail: AAC members can borrow up to 10 books and five videos at a time for 28 days. Books may be checked out online and sent anywhere in the U.S. You only pay for return shipping.
Q Use our online Guidebook Finder to check out a guidebook before your next trip.
To find a specific book, visit booksearch.americanalpineclub.org.
MUSEUM
A joint venture of the American Alpine Club and Colorado Mountain
Club, the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum in
Golden, CO, is the only museum in the U.S. dedicated exclusively to
mountaineering and rock climbing. The museum hosts rotating exhibits
and showcases a scale model of Mt. Everest, the ice axe Pete Schoening
used to save five falling ice climbers on K2 in 1953, and equipment from
the first American ascent of Mt. Everest. Stop by to browse at your leisure,
or join us for one of our monthly happy hours.
For more information, visit mountaineeringmuseum.org.
PROFILE
By visiting your online profile at profile.americanalpineclub.org, you can:
Q find AAC events in your area Q access all your benefits Q invite your friends to join the Club and score free swag Q donate to the Club Q access Member Share to find climbing partners and share beta Q update your account settings
LOCAL DISCOUNTS
Additional discounts on gear, lodging, climbing gyms, and guide services
vary by region. To view your local discounts, visit americanalpineclub.org/
discounts.
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 53
-
RESCUE
AAC members are automatically eligible for $10,000 of total rescue
benefits. Step past the trailhead and youre covered for any human-
powered, land-based activity.
TRAILHEAD RESCUE Q $5,000 global coverage Q No elevation restriction Q To use the Trailhead Rescue service, members
must call Global Rescue at (617) 459-4200 as soon as possible during an emergency
DOMESTIC RESCUE BENEFIT Q $5,000 reimbursement for out-of-pocket rescue expenses within the
U.S. onlyCanada and Mexico excluded
Q File a claim within 30 days of evacuation by emailing [email protected] or calling (303) 384-0110. Reimbursement is subject to verification and approval.
RESCUES IN 2014In 2014, 24 members were rescued thanks to the Trailhead Rescue
Benefit, and three members received reimbursement from the Domestic
Rescue Benefit.
UPGRADEAAC members may upgrade to a full Global Rescue membership at a 5%
discount. Learn more at americanalpineclub.org/rescue.
GRANTS
Each year, the AAC gives over $100,000 toward climbing, conservation,
and research grants to help you realize your climbing dreams and protect
the places we love.
CLIMBING GRANTS
LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANTAll climbers have dreams. Let us help you live yours. The Live Your Dream
grant, powered by the North Face, is designed to help you, the everyday
adventurer, take your abilities to the next level. Receive $200$1,000 of
seed funding to jumpstart your next adventure.
LYMAN SPITZER CUTTING EDGE AWARD
The worlds most elite climbing grant, funding boundary-setting
expeditions equipped with only the bare essentials.
COPP-DASH INSPIRE AWARD
Designed for small teams that plan to document and share their ascents,
primarily on unclimbed objectives in distant ranges that require a high
level of skill and commitment.
ZACK MARTIN BREAKING BARRIERS GRANT
A dual-purpose grant that funds projects with a humanitarian primary
objective and a secondary objective involving climbing.
MCNEILL-NOTT AWARD
Funding amateurs exploring new routes or unclimbed peaks with small
and lightweight teams.
MOUNTAINEERING FELLOWSHIP GRANTFunding significant trips for inspired climbers ages 25 and younger.
CONSERVATION GRANTS
CORNERSTONE CONSERVATION GRANT
Funding infrastructure that protects and conserves climbing areas in the
United States.
SCOTT FISHER-LARA KELLOGG MEMORIAL CONSERVATION GRANTS
Funding expeditions that support and improve the health of mountain
environments and habitats.
RESEARCH GRANTS
The AACs Research Committee administers funds from the Arthur K.
Gilkey Memorial Research Fund and Bedayn Research Fund to support scientific research projects that align with AAC values and charter.
For more about each grant, including application deadlines and funds
available, visit americanalpineclub.org/grants.
RESCUE / GRANTS
54 | BETA
-
2014 GRANTSLIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
ROCKIESJeff Dobrinyi $800Travis Drake $850Sibylle Hechtel $750Angela Tomczik $600
SOUTHEASTBilly Brown $800Cindy Maloney $800Cole Casserly $612Dominic Metcalf $612Kenny House $612Matthew Morris $800Maya Zambrano-Lee $612Michael Dannhardt $612Sheila Reddy $1,612
CENTRALDan Brazil $500Eric Carter $300James Schroeder $500Ron Schilb $200Sarah Micheels $500
NORTHEASTDaniel Chen $700Brandon Martin $700Hanna Lucy $1,000Zeb Engberg $1,200Griffin Biedron $200Christopher Desir $700Stephen Scott $500
NORTHWESTAmmi Midstokke $250 Candi Cook $500Emily Reinsel $200Jenny Abegg $200Katherine Bill $250Ryan Cudo $350Shawna Cooke $350Szu-ting Yi $500Ian Bolliger $350Vanessa Burdick $400Kathryn Schlaich $400Alicia Imbody $250
WESTERNDavid Allfrey $1,000Brian Biancardi $500Allison Feinberg $500Laura Henn $500Michelle Kinny $500Paul Koubek $500Ryan Leary $500Brad Lipovsky $500McKenzie Long $500
Andrew Manton $500Peter McCarthy $500Quendallyn Mickelwait $500Myles Moser $1,000Lindsay Ryder $500
LYMAN SPITZER CUTTING EDGE AWARD
Kyle Dempster $3,000Christopher Wright $3,000Alan Rousseau $3,000Jared Vilhauer $3,000
COPP-DASH INSPIRE AWARD
Graham Zimmerman $4,000Austin Siadak $8,000Jessa Goebel $5,000Erik Bonnett $3,000
ZACH MARTINBREAKING BARRIERS GRANT
Sean ONeill $2,500
MCNEILL-NOTT AWARD
Sarah Fritz $1,000Quinn Brett $4,000
MOUNTAINERING FELLOWSHIP GRANT
FALLGarrett Genereux $800Kate Hale $600Matthew Morriss $800Natalie Afonina $800Alex Quitiquit $800Andrew Lam $800
SPRINGAndrew Fink $500Leland Krych $800David Fay $800Emily Matherly $400Keenan Waeschle $600 Kyle Pratt $800Matthew Lemke $500Neil Hansen $600Cole Kennedy $500John Collis $500
CORNERSTONE CONSERVATION GRANT
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance $5,500Kansas City Climbing Club $3,500Michigan University Outdoors Club $3,000Cottonwood Gulch Foundation $1,500Friends of Muir Valley $6,000North Carolina Outward Bound School $800Rocky Mountain Field Institute $2,200Wildlands Restoration Volunteers $1,000Boulder Climbers Coalition $1,500
SCOTT FISHER-LARA KELLOGGMEMORIAL CONSERVATION GRANT
Jenny Abegg $350Alison Criscitiello $625Ryan Vachon $625
RESEARCH GRANTS
Alexandra Giese $900Meagan Oldfather $300Will Petry $450Katreen Jones $900Kellen Nelson $900Leander Anderegg $800Elizabeth Balgord $300Steven Emerman $450
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 55
-
$10,000+EIGER FELLOWAnonymous (2)Yvon & Malinda
ChouinardKevin DuncanJim EdwardsCharles & Lisa
FleischmanTimothy ForbesClark GerhardtRocky HendersonTodd HoffmanLou KasischkeJames KennedyMark KroeseCraig McKibbenPeter MetcalfMark & Teresa RicheyCody J SmithThe Spitzer Family
FoundationSteven Swenson & Ann
DaltonDoug & Maggie WalkerLawerance True &
Linda Brown
$5,000-$9,999ALPAMAYO FELLOWAnsara Family FundDoug & Sandy BeallEdmund & Betsy Cabot
FoundationAlpenglow FoundationChadwick ChristineMaryclaire & Jim CollisYonsuk DerbyKit DesLauriersJames & Cheryl
DuckworthBruce FranksGerald GallwasMarilyn GeninattiSandy HillJeffrey HoffmanShelly MalkinJames MorrisseyVanessa OBrienWolf RiehleDavid RiggsCarey RobertsNaoe SakashitaSteve & Paula Mae
SchwartzWilliam & Barbra StrakaTheodore Streibert
Ronald UlrichFinn Wentworth
$2,500-$4,999ROBSON FELLOW Anonymous (2)Warren AdelmanRobert BehrensJames BradyRalph BurnsDavid BurtonBruce CarrollChristine CaseJeffrey CohenMadrone CoopwoodChristopher CroftJames CrosslinJoseph DavidsonScott DavisWilliam DavisPhilip DuffJesse DwyerGreg EngelmanPhilip ErardGary EvansRuth EwingCharlotte FoxJim FrushNeil GleichmanDavid GoeddelPeter Sam Addis & Gus
GoldmanJan GreenspanWayne & Cynthia GriffinSyed HaiderJeffrey HallRobert HallColleen HintonRichard E. Hoffman
M.D.Denny HoganThomas & Kathy
HornbeinRobert Hyman &
Deborah AtwoodThomas JansonMark KassnerTimothy KlostermeierJamie LoganGeorge Lowe IIIBrent ManningWeston MarkhamPaul MorrowHilaree ONiellDaniel PeckMatthew PruisJohn Reppy
Dan RosePaul RoseStewart SayahMark SchumacherStephen ScofieldHoward SeboldA.C. SherpaKapp SingerGeorge N. SmithGregory SmithPatricia SmithAlan SpielbergBob StrodeLewis SurdamJoshua SwidlerDavid ThoenenClint TreadwellPaul UnderwoodChris WarnerMark WilfordJames WilsonRobert WilsonJi WuEric Yollick
$1,000-$2,499TEEWINOT FELLOWAnonymous (2)Nicole Alger & Zachary
KarabellNathan AllenJon AndersonMelissa ArnotJames BalogCOL Christopher BatesVaclav BenesGordon A. Benner M.D.Brook BennettBob BergerLaura