2013 Bunch Etiquette

Booklet Riding tips to help you stay on your bike,

and friends with the SCC Bunch.

Version3-Oct12

Safer Together -

Welcome to the Sydney Cycling Club

Sydney Cycling Club (SCC) was formed in 1978. Recreational cycling was booming and our founding members set out to build a new club folding in sport and recreation aspects, touring and socializing.

Cycling is one of the highest participation sports with significant growth (100%) over the last decade. Correspondingly, Sydney Cycling Club has also grown to be one of the most significant Cycling clubs and remains unique in that we continue to provide a broad offering to our members – road tours, racing, track, training and social elements making up a balanced club.

Whatever your desired interest in cycling, riding safely is of paramount importance. And riding in a bunch is radically different from riding alone. I often compare bunch riding as driving your car along a crowded freeway at speed, during peak hour. It only works if all drivers act consistently, stay alert and without surprises.

This is the key reason why this guide was put together and is made available free of charge to all current and prospective members. Being aware and understanding your responsibilities, both within the bunch and generally, will help protect you and your fellow cyclists.

Please read, understand and practise the disciplines and etiquette described. If in any doubt, ask a senior club member or committee member who will be more than happy to help you.

Without the voluntary contribution of our member’s time and energy, the club could not be as successful as it is. I thank all volunteers, especially the Ride Captains and Club Committee. Thank you.

Steven Berveling President, Sydney Cycling Club 2012 -2013

SOME BASIC POINTS If everyone can remember some basic points it will be a lot easier to have trust in your training partners and have a more enjoyable outing. • When you are on the front of the bunch you are the eyes of the

bunch. Always remember roughly how many riders you have with you!

• Point out obvious dangers, pot holes, car doors, pedestrians etc

• Ride at an appropriate speed - remember that’s why you are in the

bunch to ride with them! If you want to hammer it, then do it solo or in designated sessions.

• Keep an eye out for wind direction and try not to fan out into traffic,

its 2 a breast!

Pass the calls up and down the bunch, so that everyone knows about the call.

• And NEVER, EVER over lap the wheel in front!

Following the guide points in this book will help you, and your training buddies, get the most enjoyment out of bunch rides in the safest possible way.

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Bunch Riding

Core Skills

BUNCH RIDING is a unique phenomenon that allows people from many diverse backgrounds and levels of fitness to train and socialise together.

Regardless of your level of fitness and capacity, it is crucial that all of us understand and practise the basics in bunch etiquette.

Disclaimer

This Sydney Cycling Club Bunch Etiquette booklet is one of a number of initiatives undertaken by the SCC Committee in an effort to promote and encourage safety during Club events and training rides. Please be aware that the sport of cycling always contains an inherent element of risk. Despite these initiatives, the safety of the individuals is their own responsibility. The Club and its Committee takes all care, but does not accept responsibility for the safety of its events and training rides. Members are required to sign a waiver to this effect when joining the Club. The Club and its members rely on you to READ, UNDERSTAND and COMPLY with the acceptable code of conduct detailed in this booklet, for your safety, and the safety of other members.

SCC Committee

Contents

Welcome to the SCC 1 Core Skills 2 3 Sharing the Road 4 New to the Bunch? 5 The Basics 7 Riding Tips on Bunch Etiquette 6 Warnings and Hand Signals 8 Cornering Skills 10 Rules & Responsibilities 13 Common Reasons for Accidents 20 Principles for SCC Bunch Riding 24 Summary 25

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Sharing the Road Practising courtesies and our etiquette within the bunch is important; furthermore, responsible, non-aggressive cycling in the bunch is important to gain mutual respect and harmony on our roads. To improve safety and consideration, when sharing Sydney’s busy roads, members on club rides are asked to adhere to the following guidelines:

• Obey the road rules, including traffic signals.

• Respect other road users – be courteous and anticipate mistakes (that we can all make).

• Be predictable and always indicate your intentions - use hand signals from the front of the bunch to the tail.

• Ride two abreast (in a bunch), but be courteous if the road narrows

riding single file when necessary and when the bunch is small.

• At lights and intersections, stay in position behind queued vehicles rather than rolling up the side of stopped traffic.

• Wear a helmet at all times.

• Use lights when riding in low light conditions.

> Be on time > Maintain your bike in good

order > Carry enough food, water

and spares > Learn to call and signal all

hazards > Stay alert, and chat only

when it’s safe > Pass the Calls – Up and

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New to the Bunch?

1Take time to practise your bike and bunch skills; attend scheduled skills sessions.

5Ride towards the back of the bunch.

6Introduce yourself to the Ride Captain before the ride.

2Take corrections with a smile. Good bunch skills improve your safety, that’s

worth a smile! 7Complete and sign the Club Disclaimer and return with the SCC Legal Terms and Conditions.

3Be courteous to other road users, many are protected by steel.

4Get help from experienced riders, or a properly trained cycling coach.

8Listen to your ride captain and obey their instructions.

The Basics

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Riding tips on Bunch Etiquette By Tanya Bosch

Why ride with a bunch? Some do it to motivate themselves to get up and train, others do it for safety in numbers on the road or simply for social reasons. Many friendships have been forged while spinning away the kilometres. Some view bunch riding as a personal challenge: if only I can keep up with them going up this hill then I know I’ve really made it.

So how do you join a bunch? If you join on the road, keep on the back unless you have permission to move towards the front. Some bunches are groups of cyclists who are paying a coach and others are not keen to ride with a cyclist that they do not know. Don’t join a bunch unless they show some kind of support. Some will support slow riders by waiting at the top of long hills or having some kind of recognized short cut on the course. Others support faster riders by having some fast sections for them that don’t break up the bunch too much. There should also be some support for those suffering punctures or mechanical breakdowns when either the whole bunch stops or one or two people stop and help. Most bunches ride two abreast as it is safest to take up one lane of the road.

Tanya Bosch is an accredited Level 2 Cycling Coach. She coaches all levels and age groups, from people who cannot ride a bike through to those cyclists wanting to win a medal at National Level. You are welcome to contact her for any level of coaching on 02 9369 1436, 0419 217 974 or email onyabike@ ozemail.com.au

Adapted from two articles that first appeared in the Jun/Jul 2000 and Aug/Sep 2000 editions of Australian Cyclist.

Riding tips continued...

ACCELERATING: Accelerating away from lights and across lanes should be done in a more dignified manner than when you are on your own, so that other cyclists are not dropped. BRAKING: Avoid braking as much as possible and give warning beforehand. When stopping for lights, do so gently without slamming the brakes on. The same goes for stopping pedalling suddenly, which can cause an accident. CORNERING: Give your partner plenty of room in the corner and keep level with them. Corner at a safe speed so that everyone behind can keep up and hold your wheel. If you find that you are continually ‘losing wheels’ then it is time to do some cornering practice. (See next article on Cornering) DOWNHILL: If you are at the front of the bunch, keep pedaling down gentle gradients. If you don’t everyone else will be putting on their brakes. HALF WHEELING: Half-wheeling is one rider always riding in front of his partner, which then puts the whole bunch out. It is essential that you keep level with your partner if at the front: keep your handlebars level with the handlebars of the rider next to you, rather than your front wheel level with theirs. SITTING ON: Keep reasonably close to the cyclist in front of you and again keep level with your partner. If too much of a gap is left the bunch is always playing ‘catch up’. Keep your head and eyes up. Don’t watch the gap between bikes. Scanning ahead will give you early warning of changes. UPHILL: In some bunches everyone splits up and goes up at their own pace while other bunches try and stay together. If that is the case and you feel like dropping off, pull off quickly so that others don’t get caught behind you. When climbing a hill and deciding to get out of the saddle do it in one continuous flowing movement. Otherwise the wheel slows momentarily and can hit the wheel of the cyclist behind, causing a fall.

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Warnings and hand signals If you are riding well into the bunch, you won’t be able to see very far ahead. Hence the need for warnings about obstacles that lay ahead. Usually there are calls and hand signals.

Bunch riding means all members of the bunch need to make calls. Calls need to be passed by all riders through the bunch, so that a call from the back makes it to the front etc. Below is the list of ‘Critical calls’. These are the standard for SCC and no other variation should be used in an SCC bunch. The Call Hand signal Meaning

'call' arm straight up in the air

Wanting to change lanes. Signaled by lead rider until a call of 'wait' or 'over' is made from last rider on the right

'wait' It is not safe to change lanes.

'over' It is safe to change lanes. It is not safe until all vehicles have passed all riders at the front of the bunch. (‘over 1’ followed by ‘over 2’ used when multiple lane changing is required.) The rider calling ‘over’ should be safely in the lane before calling the bunch over.

‘hold the lane’ When you want the bunch to stay in the lane they are in and not move left

'single up' The bunch needs to change from 2 abreast to single file.

‘pair up’ It is safe for the bunch to go back to 2 abreast riding.

'stopping' When the bunch needs to come to a stop.

'slowing' Made (preferably before it happens) when the group changes speed.

Continued on the next page:

Warnings and hand signals - continued ‘rolling’ Used when traffic lights change to amber and lead riders make call that the entire bunch

can make it through safely. (See other use below)

‘clear’ Made when turning corners or through roundabouts to signal it is safe. (Also ‘clear left’ and ‘clear right’)

‘hole’ Pointing towards the approaching hole

A dangerous hole in the road is approaching. Made by the first rider and passed through the bunch by all riders. (Includes ‘left’ ‘right’ and ‘middle’). This is not for every tiny bump in the road.

‘rubbish’ Pointing towards the obstruction coming

A dangerous obstruction is on the road and approaching. Made by the first rider and passed through the bunch by all riders.

-- Left arm bent and placed behind back

The bunch is approaching and passing an object that may need you to move off your line to avoid. E.g. a parked car.

‘door' Passing a car with potential occupant set to open or has opened door.

‘car up’ On a narrow street a car coming the other way presents a potential risk so stay tight to the left.

‘car back’ A car is behind the bunch wanting to pass or a car is overtaking the bunch

‘turning left’ left arm out Bunch will be turning if road is clear, be alert. (Also ‘turning right’)

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By Tanya Bosch

correct line

incorrect line

Cornering Skills

Cornering is not just an important skill for racing cyclists who want to survive criteriums. On the Audax Alpine Classic I was passing cyclists sitting on their brakes because they were not sure about cornering downhill at speed. It’s also important for commuters in traffic because cornering at a decent speed helps you to blend in with the traffic flow. THERE ARE A FEW IMPORTANT POINTS TO KEEP IN MIND ABOUT CORNERING.

LINE This is the line you take through the corner. (See diagram above). You need to flatten the line as much as possible. This will depend on how much space there is to manoeuvre. In most cases there will be a car’s width. It is always important to visualize the line that you will take as an imaginary line on the road. If you suddenly see a pothole or a slippery grate readjust your line. Do not look at the pothole!

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Cornering Skills continued...

BRAKING The second point to remember is ‘braking’. Never brake in a corner as you risk losing control of your traction. Brake before a corner. Get into the habit of being at the correct speed before you reach the corner.

EXITING Exiting the corner is my next point. Keep your line in mind as your bike returns to upright. To maintain your general average speed, pedal out of the saddle straight away. This will be a necessity for racing cyclists who race criteriums regularly. However to do this too early can flip the bike.

BODY POSITION The lower your centre of gravity, the better you can corner. In other words: be on the drops, drop your body down and back over the rear wheel. Lean into the corner and keep the inside pedal up. Keep your weight on the outside pedal.

Criterium riders will want to pedal through the corners as much as possible. In this case you need to know your bike and how much you can lean before you will hit a pedal on the ground. When you are off the bike, lean it to the side of the down pedal to the point where it touches the ground. I find that once I know a corner well I also know what speed I can safely pedal through the corner.

Cornering Skills continued...

How to improve

your cornering

?

Obviously oil on the road and things like sand and loose gravel on the corner will influence your cornering. Always scan the road and make quick decisions for the prevailing conditions. Be prepared to change your line at the last minute. If you do not know the road, then do not ride the corners to your limit. Knowing the corners well will enable you to push it.

PRACTICE It pays to practise and experiment with different lines. I found that descending on a twisting course once a week gave me the confidence to go faster and have renewed confidence on courses that I did not know. My last word is to relax and enjoy. It really helps the technique. Your balance will be adversely affected by tightening up.

1 Find a course with four corners in 400 metres, if possible. Experiment with different speeds and lines, pedalling and coasting. Decrease the width that you have allowed for your line and see how you cope. Do it with a partner and try to do it handlebar to handlebar. If your partner is better at cornering try to hold their wheel through the corner.

2 Find a descent with challenging corners and do it at least four times. Ride up the hill easily. You will find that you will be more confident by the fourth time.

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Your Responsibilities Dos and Don’ts of bunch riding

The only way you can learn bike skills and bunch skills is to practice, but without basic knowledge of the rules and responsibilities involved, practice alone will get you nowhere. Here is a more complete list of the Do’s and Don’ts of Bunch Riding.

1 FORMATION – the bunch is one vehicle Riders should pair off in 2 by 2 formation. You should not sit directly on the wheel of the rider in front. Try to maintain about a 30cm distance off the rear tyre and ride slightly off to the side of the rider in front. Newer riders may need to leave a larger gap, up to one and a half wheels behind.

The reason you offset slightly from the wheel in front is for better vision down the line and to allow more time to react to problems. If single file is called to allow a car or truck to pass, the rider on the left slots in behind his partner on the right.

Use one whole lane and ride side by side, even with your partner, slightly offset by a tyre width off the wheel in front.

Single file – may be called to allow other vehicles to pass the bunch.

Your Responsibilities continued...

2 SITTING ON THE WHEEL You should focus on the rider in front, and scan ahead. By focusing on the person you will be more aware of what is happening in the bunch. It won’t take you long to judge the distance between you and the rider in front.

3 POSITION ON THE ROAD Cyclists have clearly defined rights that allow riders to occupy a full lane, ride in pair formation and have the same responsibilities as motorists.

It is dangerous to ride to the far left of a lane. This exposes you to greater danger from cars trying to squeeze past. A car must give you a full metre when passing. When possible give parked cars – with or without an occupant – a one metre clearance. Ride a metre out from the gutter to avoid glass and rubbish.

Riding too close to the gutter also can create problems for riders. Slipping off the roadway into the gutter can bring you down as you try to get back over the lip of the gutter. Great skill is required to hop out of the gutter. If you find yourself in this position, slow down and stay in the gutter until it flattens out; then exit at an angle.

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The front of the bunch 4 THE LEAD RIDERS

The two riders on the front have a huge responsibility. They must set the pace, call all road obstacles and warn the bunch of any traffic changes.

When approaching a new set of lights the lead riders have sole responsibility in making the call. It will either be lights, stopping or rolling. Remember that the bunch is one vehicle so if the bunch is committed to roll, then don’t make decisions in the middle of the bunch to suddenly stop. This will cause heavy braking towards the back of the bunch.

If the lights are turning orange on approach, the lead riders must be aware of the size of the bunch and make the appropriate call. It is better to be more cautious than gung-ho!

When entering a roundabout or an intersection the lead riders must call clear or car coming. All calls should be relayed down the line.

Inside the bunch Maintain your separation far enough from the rider in front to avoid any risk of touching wheels (an almost certain crash for the rear rider who touches if it happens) but stay close enough to stay in the wind shadow of the rider in front - less than half a wheel diameter separation for experienced riders, up to 1.5 wheel diameters for newer, less confident riders.

Watch the rider in front – not just their back wheel – it’s easier to maintain your separation that way and there is valuable knowledge for you to be learned from those in front of you

Warn those behind (and in front) of hazards coming their way. ALWAYS point to and/or describe shortly (but loudly) holes, broken glass, or anything likely to endanger those behind you – they may not be able to see the danger and at pack speeds you come on them quickly. Typical calls are hole (left/centre/right); glass, car (back/right/left/front). Once warned those behind need to watch for the item called and look for the path that clears the problem – Do not look at the problem or you will travel there!

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Down the back of the bunch 5 THE BACK MARKERS

The riders on the back also have a huge responsibility, particularly the rider on the right hand (outside) side. This person must call the bunch across lanes or warn of trucks, cars etc that are approaching when on narrow and/or single lane roads.

When crossing over lanes the call is either wait or over. It is important that the instruction is relayed up the line and when crossing over the bunch moves as one and does not fragment. The rider on the outside rear must maintain a distinct hand signal until the manoeuvre is completed.

On a narrow single lane road the last rider must warn of cars behind. A call of car back is a simple call to understand.

Only call over when passing vehicle has passed all riders not just back markers.

Moving through the bunch 6 ROLLING OVER - ROTATING

The lead riders should not attempt to stay on the front for too long; five kilometres is plenty. This gives everyone a chance to go to the front. If you feel that you are not fit enough or strong enough to do a turn, go to the front, advise your partner and both immediately roll off. Do not suddenly pull out of the line prior to getting to the front - this only leaves gaps.

The rotate / roll-over procedure is simple. Sydney Cycling Club uses the “chaingang” method, where every rider in the bunch moves position, similar to a slow paceline.

The two front riders make a signal with their hands to indicate that they’ll rotate. The rider on the right moves ahead slightly, and moves to the left side, in front of his previous team mate. The rider who was behind him on the right side moves forward to take the lead position on the right side.

At the rear of the bunch, the rider on the left moves across to the right side of the bunch.

7 PACE LINE – an advanced technique When coming back from Waterfall or La Perouse the pace usually picks up and a pace line forms. The formation is similar to a chain, where the rolling off the front occurs at speed by the lead rider.

The way the rider rolls off is usually dependent upon the direction of the wind. The rider always rolls off to the side the wind is coming from. Keep the speed constant, do not slow down as you roll off; wait until you are well clear. In the case of a head or tail wind rolling off to the left towards the gutter is generally the best way.

The rider rolling off immediately starts soft-pedalling dropping speed. The rider coming through does not pick up speed. Surging through by the lead rider only strings the field out making it hard for those moving back down the line to move back on to the forward moving line.

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Riders in the slower pace line must stay on the wheel. Do not stop pedalling. This causes huge gaps in the line and can drop riders off the back.

If you cannot do a turn, stay out of the pace line. Too many times weaker riders position themselves 4th or 5th wheel and do not come to the front. This is infuriating to those wanting to keep the line moving.

Those riders not able or wanting to join the pace line should stay slightly off the back of the line containing the riders coming off the front, in the left line in single file, thus not confusing the paceline which may think someone on the right may be coming through. You will get good cover here, and you won’t disrupt the riders in the pace line.

8 AVOIDING HAZARDS, RUBBISH, CAR DOORS If you are following the wheel properly and the riders in front have identified an obstacle and given advance warning, then nasty incidents should be avoided. Always pass warning calls down the bunch. Wherever possible ride one metre clear of parked cars and the gutter. This stops motorists pushing past and also avoids most of the glass and rubbish on the side of the road.

The Problem A Possible Solution

To help you stay alert at all times when riding in a bunch, carry enough food and liquids so you don’t get hungry or dehydrated.

Lapse in concentration

Lack of bike control

Don’t freewheel if you are forced onto grass or gravel, keep pedalling to keep control of your bike. Brake when you have control of your bike.

Lack of proper communication

Talk if you must, but watch what is happening within the bunch. up ahead of you. Listen for calls and always pass them down the line.

Attach your pump securely with tape/Velcro. Check your bottle cage for fit, and bend it back if needed, so bottles stay put.

Lack of proper bike and equipment maintenance

Learn to ride your bike without your hands. Steering with your hips rather than choking your handlebars will give you better control.

Choking the handlebars leading to poor control

Skilled riders should be aware of less experienced riders in the bunch and not ‘bunny hop’ an obstacle.

Lack of bike skills such as the ability to ‘bunny hop’

Keep pedalling as you get out of the saddle. Making sure you are at the top of the pedal stroke and keep the pressure on the pedal.

Rolling back into the riders behind as you get out of the saddle up an incline

To slow without braking, sit up to increase wind resistance, pedal softer or pull slightly out of the line. If you must slow down yell, slowing loudly to warn others.

Sudden panic braking in the middle of the bunch

Wait until the gutter flattens out, and then exit at an angle. Getting caught in the gutter leading to falls as you exit.

Common Reasons for Accidents

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How to survive road hazards By Fred Matheny and Ed Pavelka of www.RoadBikeRider.com

Cycling is a unique sport because its arena is the open road. That’s the same place frequented by traffic, potholes, snarling dogs and absentminded pedestrians. But sometimes we’re our own worst enemy. Inattention and poor technique can put us on the pavement as fast as any hazard. Use these tips and you’ll be less likely to take a tumble. Always ride with your head up. While cruising along, it’s tempting to stare at the whirling pattern of the front spokes or fixate on your cyclecomputer’s numbers. A momentary downward glance that lasts just a second too long can mean riding into a problem that could easily have been avoided. Focus. The smooth and rhythmic motion of pedaling can have a hypnotic effect. Daydreaming cyclists have crashed into the back of parked cars, wandered far into the traffic lane or blithely ridden off the road. Don’t let yourself be separated from the outside world by the vivid canvases created by your imagination. Keep your head in the game. Keep your bike in top mechanical condition. Repair or replace faulty parts sooner rather than later. It’s a loser’s game to milk “just one more ride” out of worn brake pads, a frayed cable, or tires with a threadbare tread or bulging sidewall. Your first line of defense against the challenges of the real world is a bike with all parts in good working order.

PUNCTURES It’s every rider’s fate to flat. But it’s relatively easy to limit the frequency. Choose your line with care. The best way to avoid punctures is also the easiest: Steer around broken glass, road rubble and potholes. Use tires with a Kevlar belt under the tread. kevlar does a good job of stopping nasty things from penetrating. Inspect the tread after every ride for embedded debris. Remember, most punctures are caused by something sticking to the tread and working through during numerous wheel revolutions. Replace tires before they become so thin that they’re virtually defenseless against pointy things.

Check inflation pressure every couple of days. Tubes are slightly porous and may lose several pounds of pressure each day. Soft tires slow you down, corner poorly, wear fast , and don’t protect your rims against metal-bending impacts.

POTHOLES Hitting potholes can bend your rims beyond repair. If the chasm is deep enough, it will send you hurtling over the handlebar when you bury the front wheel and the bike suddenly stops. Here’s a primer on pothole evasion. Note where potholes lurk on your normal training routes. Plan your line well in advance to avoid them. Don’t expect the road to be in the same condition every day. Potholes have a habit of sprouting up out of nowhere, especially in the winter and early spring due to the daily freeze/thaw cycle. Treat potholes like glass. Ride around them, first checking behind for traffic. Be mindful of riding partners when you change your line. Newly minted potholes present a double hazard—the chasm itself, and the chunks of shattered pavement around it. If the pothole doesn’t bend your wheel, the sharp bits of rubble might puncture your tire. Give these highway craters a wide berth.

Jump your bike over a pothole, if you have the skill and are unable to ride around it because of traffic or adjacent riders. Learn this move on a grassy field. Level your pedals, crouch off the saddle, then spring up and lift with your feet and hands. Start by jumping over a l ine on the ground, then graduate to higher but forgiving objects such as a rolled-up towel or a shoebox.

RAILROAD TRACKS Unlike most dangers, tracks can’t be ridden around. You can suffer an instant crash if your tires slip on the shiny steel rails. Ride with extreme caution and follow these safety tips.

Slow down! Tracks are rough, and even if you don’t crash you could get a pinch flat. This happens when you ride into something abrupt, like a rail, and it pinches the tube between the tire and rim, slicing two little holes in the tube.

Rise slightly off the saddle. Have equal weight on your hands and feet. Let the bike chatter beneath you. Use your flexed arms and legs as shock absorbers. Cross tracks at a right angle. If the rails are diagonal to the road and you cross them at an angle, your front wheel can be twisted out from under you. A perpendicular passage is essential in the rain. Wet metal tracks are incredibly slippery. The slightest imbalance or abrupt move can send you sprawling.

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Jump if you’re real good. Racers who need to cross tracks at maximum speed will jump them. They use the same technique that works for potholes, but with more speed and lift because they must clear two rails. Coming down too early means the rear wheel will hit the second rail, guaranteeing a ruined rim or a pinch flat. In most cases, jumping isn’t worth the danger. It’s better to slow down, square up, and creep across.

ADDITIONAL SLICK SPOTS Painted lines. These can be slippery, especially the wide markings for pedestrian crossings at intersections. The paint fills in the asphalt’s texture, producing a surface that’s uncertain when dry and deadly when wet. The danger is worse when the paint is new. Dry oil slicks. These may be nearly invisible, but you can spot them as darker streaks on a gray pavement. Be real careful in corners. You aren’t safe if you ride through oil on the straights. The greased tread might slip in a corner just ahead. Wet oil slicks. If it rains, a small oily patch can grow until it covers the whole lane. Be on the lookout for the telltale multi-colored water. There’s no pot of gold at the end of this rainbow, only a black-and-blue meeting with the pavement. Wet metal. If it’s been raining and you come upon anything metal in the road (manhole cover, steel-deck bridge, road-repair plate), it’s as treacherous as riding on ice. Cross it with the bike absolutely upright. Even a slight lean can cause the wheels to slip. Smart riders walk their bikes across wet steel bridges. Wet leaves. Be very careful in the fall, or you will. Even if the road is dry, there can be moisture trapped between leaves littering the pavement. When you see leaves in a corner, slow down and round the bend with your bike upright, not angled. Sewer grates. Some old ones have bars that run parallel to the street and are wide enough to let a bike wheel fall through. If this happens, you can look forward to plastic surgery and possibly a lifetime of lawsuit riches. Many municipalities have replaced such grates with bicycle-friendly versions, but be careful in case a town hasn’t gotten the message yet.

Sydney Cycling Club

Principles for SCC Bunch Rides For an enjoyable and safe ride with a SCC Bunch the following principles should be courteously followed:

• All SCC bunches obey the law, road rules including traffic signals, and respect other road users.

• All SCC bunches STOP and WAIT for mechanicals, punctures and accidents.

• NO EXCUSES and no jumping on to the next SCC bunch to come past.

• B, C and D Grade SCC bunches start together and finish together. No rider shall be dropped and abandoned.

• B, C and D Grade SCC bunches will stop, wait and regroup at the top of each climb – stopping where it is safe to wait. The A Grade bunch should slow sufficiently to regroup for the safety of the bunch.

• If a SCC bunch is split by a red light, the front part of the bunch will slow and wait for the remainder to rejoin.

• Each SCC bunch will have a designated ride captain.

• SCC bunches ride tempo out and faster home as general rule.

• If any rider feels the pace is too slow either take a longer turn on the front (or ride away from the bunch from the back – having told the designated ride captain what’s occurring). DON’T race off the front.

• The aim is to maintain a safe separation between bunches NOT to push the pace and catch the bunch in front down the road.

• Pass all calls up and down the bunch (including the route).

• Concentrate – social chit-chat is for the coffee shop afterwards.

• Time trial bars are NOT to be used when riding with SCC bunches.

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Summary

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Always check intersections/roundabouts for traffic.

Always warn the riders behind of hazards.

Don’t use aero bars, ‘bunny hop’ or leave gaps.

Don’t abandon a puncture victim until they can cope.

Don’t brake suddenly, it shocks the rider behind and you could end up wearing them.

Don’t half wheel your partner; keep your handlebars even with theirs.

Don’t surge, it’s tiring and causes gaps.

If changing the route, warn the bunch well ahead.

If on the front, warn of traffic ahead.

If last outside rider, warn of traffic behind.

If you lose your partner, roll to the back.

Listen for shouts and watch for hand signals.

Maintain your pace and your separation.

Merge left rider behind right if single file called.

Ride side by side and use up one whole lane.

Take sadly inevitable corrections with a smile.

Watch the rider in front, not just their back wheel.

Lastly, be tolerant, responsible and supportive.

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Useful links

Sydney Cycling Club www.sydneycyclingclub.org.au

Cycling NSW www.nsw.cycling.org.au

Australian Cycling Federation www.cycling.org.au

www.cyclingnews.com www.velonews.com www.prezcyclingnews.com

Tour de France www.letour.fr

Tour Down Under www.tourdownunder.com.au

Amy Gillett Foundation www.amygillett.org.au

News

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Notes/Contacts